Janneux 28 Sundream Misteral

This is a report covering expeience aboard this vessel Skippered by Chris Bailes and his partner Jade. Based at Portland Marina. Its purpose to serve as a log to find out all aspects of sailing her
and getting to know her.

1. Prepping the boat for Sea.

Starting from the point of tied up along side. Initial visual inpsection saw some securing lines too long and they should be replaced. The two bow stay lines could be tied to the shore cleats as
could the the fore, aft and two springs. So that they are ready when you return and would leave the decks clear. Of course if you are planning to tie up somewhere else then you would take them
with you. Check that you crew is prepped ie Life Jackets and appropriate clothing. If weather conditions are such ready access to life lines should be done. The Cockpit has built in Clip on points.
All crew to remain sitting in place in heavy weather. Boat should be set up to avoid having to go forward. In the event of a requirement to move forward clip on the the flat band life lines that
should pass inside the port and starboard mast shrouds. Any movement forward in rough seas should also be inside the shrouds. Always use the shrouds, backstays, forestays to hang on to, never
ropes as they move and you may loose your balance.

2. Pre-Departure Checks.(Assuming all other points such as Heads, Sinks, Kit, Sails all ready and ok)
Check Sea cock for engine and Switch on. This boat has it permanently on. This is not good practice and should always be turned off when the boat is secured at any destination. Location Rear of
Gear Box just port of prop shaft. Access via rear cabin. Not yet possible to reach it. Make a better access from the easy way dont cut GRP but go through ant timber panels. If a hose came off
boat could sink. Now get ready a slip line. And pass through a pontoon cleat about mid ship and back through fairlead at front to a crew member to hold around a cleat on the boat. Set Fenders on
starboard side to minimise risk of damage to nieghbour. Remove all lines except the stern Line(Note:This rope needs protecting from Chafe. Place a plastic tube over the tow rail. ) Set and hold
tiller at 45 deg to starboard. Check around that your planned exit is clear. Be ready to quickly release stern line and bow line together on the command Release, power on throttle(Reverse) to
get boat moving in reverse. (Note : Button in center of throttle leaver if for a neutral set. Allows you to open throttle for easier engine starting. Return throttle to vertical releases button so you can
engage gears.) Watch for wind effects. Bow is more sensitive to wind. Wind is precominantly west/south west). Best to reverse out. Only attemp a turn in clear space leaving sufficient room
around you. Bring sertn up into wind and through it. Boat will turn about C of G but will also slew. Keep down wind of objects and at least half boat length away. Keep on the opposite side to
where the wind would blow you. If lines are not released speed will be curtailed and boat will drift. Rudder will not be effective under sufficient speed built up. Check with marina if they have
assistance on hand for windy conditions. You could also move to a clear area of the marina and practice your departure and arrival routines so they become slick. Finally I have been thinking on
how to depart single handed. I have the idea of tow line shore lines coming to boat through the tow rail and secured with release pins. (Ie like a couple of bolts) Two release lines from the cockpit
could be pulled to release the bolts and the shore lines would drop away as you powered out. Actual arrangement of this system would have to be worked out.

3.Bilge.
Has salty lying water. Can be cleared with bilge pump but seems to refill. Source of water ingress to be isolated. Could be windows, Toilet, Hand basin, gally sink. Check all sea cocks. Enging
sump appears dry so inlet sea cock ok. Check exhaust flange.

4. Tiller Control.
Operate the tiller and see how the boat responds. When going forward do this by looking at the bow. Move it to and fro and see how the boat changes direction. Get used to the amount of tiller
required for a change and this will also be dependant on boat speed. Only go in reverse to the required speed to counter act the wind. If you go too fast Rudder can go hard over and it would be
difficult to get it back in line due to the pressure of water on it. Should this happen put boat in forward to stop and regain control.

5. Approaching Mooring Berth.

Slow as possible but not too slow to loose rudder control. Stay up wind from berth and judge when to turn. Come in on a wide slow turn aiming for center of finger. Take into account windage.
Now bring the bow to right of finger. Trying to keep stern from swinging around. Keep adjusting and looking. If the stern swings around too far put on opposite rudder. Use throttle and blip it to
keep going. Get ready to blip in reverse to slow. Blip reverse to stop. Jump to pontoon finger with a belly band line in hand and secure. Boat is now tied. At your pace now make off all bow, stern
and spring lines.

6. Main Sail.

MAIN CLEW OUTHAUL. At the start of sailing this was attached by a couple of hitches. I noted at the end it was only just hanging on with a single hitch. Re do with a bowline and tie the tail
up with a strong cable tie. You would not need to undo this unless you were taking the sail off.
The Main sail does not have any reefing lines or pennnants. Currently only one rope for a reefing outhaul present. There are four reefing points on the sail which you would set for different Wind
speeds. You wont be going out in anything above a force 5 but you may get caught out in situations where the wind could rise even higher so you need to be prepared to reef. I would divide the
reefing up into. Upto force 3= No reefing. 3-4 reef 1. 5-6 reef 2. 6-7 reef 3 7-8 reef 4. Above no main sail. Use small jib. It also depends on direction of sail as different points will make the boat
heal. So judge accordingly to how boat is healing. Trying to change a reefing point with only one rope will be difficult and dangerous as the sail will flap as you are trying tho thread the line and it
will snatch out of your hand. NEVER USE metal connections on the reefing lines or JIB Sheet lines as they will smash youo teeth out. Always use Bowlines that are pulled tight and have long
tails. I also spoke about the reefing pennants. The lengths of small line that go throught the sail. These are used to tie up the loos sail hanging below the boom when you have reefed. This then
maintains the lower shape of the sail otherwise it could get baggy and you will loose thrust. Now just wait a minute. As you have a lazy jack system it may not be possible to use pennants as the
sail cover would be scrunched up if pennants were used.. This need to be researched.

Main Halyard. This was connected to the Main with a twist lock D shackle which needs pliers to remove. It may be that the previous owner was concerned that the snap shackle might come
undone and this would leave the yrad stuck at the top of the mast. I have never had one come free so I would change the D Shackle for a snap shackle. This allows you to take off the Halyard so
the sail can be fully stowed in the Cover.

Lazy Jack Sail cover is in need of repair. A new one was guessed at minimal 100 but the net shows them for this boat at $245. Repair is possible.

7. Lee and Gybe Turns.

A lee turn is when you turn the boat into the wind so it passes from one side over the bow of the boat to the other side. Much used in Tacking up wind. A much safer manouver than the Gybe turn.
You can use it on a down wind sail.

A Gybe turn is where you turn away from the wind so the wind passes from one side of the boat over the stern to the other. Gybe turns are favoured in racing but providing that you always haul in
tight on the main sheet they are reasonably safe. The dangers lies in the boom slamming across from one side to the other taking someone head with it and damaging the boats rig. I did one in a
force 6 with the sheet in tight but although safe the boom slammed from one side to the other and the boat rocked sharply from one side to the other.. It can throw people off balance. Inform crew
of your intention to change course and by what method then issue the calls as required. Lee Turn: Ready about ,Lee Ho. Gybe Turn: Prepare to Gybe(Get your heads down)(Haul in Main
Sheet). Bear away(From the Wind)(Realease the Jib and pull in on opposite Jib Sheet) [Now you can see why I didnt want the Jib in use on first trip.]. Gybe Ho(Called just before boat
Gybes). When settled on new course adjust sails. It is the unexprienced helms that will Gybe unintentionally but it can happen when sailing directly down wind and due to rolling or pitching the
wind can get behind the sail and Gybe it.

8. Know Your boat:

Although you may be anxious to get out sailing it is essential to Know your boat. I recommend you mark the rope jammers with permanent felt tip. IE Main Hal, Top Lift. Clew Out.

9. Rigging.
Boom Vang(Kicking Strap). This is the assembly that is attached about a along the boom and down to the base of the Mast. It is to stop the boom lifting on a Gybe turn or when sailing down
wind.
Check all your shrouds ,forstay and back stay for broken strands.

10. Propulsion.
Yanmar 2GM20 16 hp Saltwater cooled. Loads of video on youtube how to winterise engine. Etc.

11. Sailing Ground..

Until you have built up experience, know your boat and its characteristics, know how to navigate and know your tides I recommend you stay within Weymouth Bay and not cross a line from
White Nothe to Eastern entrance of Portland Harbour.

Conclusion: I think you are both people who will progress in sailing and have the right attitude to safety. From hear you can teach yourself all bout sailing from the internet and books.
If you want further help please ask as that is the role of RNSA to promote sailing. Now get down on that boat and bring her up to scratch. Brendan