Checks & Stripes

vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
As the majority of garments are
symmetrical it follows that the pattern of a
material should be positioned
symmetrically on the garment. The
objective of symmetrical positioning is to
make sure that there is a correspondence
of the cloth pattern on opposite sides of
the garment, i.e. front to front, lapel to
lapel, pocket to pocket, etc.
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
Stripes

The main feature requiring symmetry on
garments made from striped materials is
the top collar together with the lapel
facing
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
Top collar

The positions of the stripes at the collar
ends is a consequence of the positioning of
the collar center back line, and the two
collar ends have to be exactly the same. As
the collar stripes are at a different angle
from those of the facing seam, they cannot
be matched along this seam.
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
Lapel facing

The stripe on the fabric should be parallel
to the edge of the lapel, and the distance
from the edge to the stripe has to be the
same on both sides. It is advisable not to
position the stripe too close to the edge in
order to prevent it from being broken up
by incorrect sewing or pressing
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
CHECKS

Achieving symmetry with checked materials is
complicated by the fact that the weft pattern also
has to be taken into account.


Components such as patch pockets must be
symmetrical irrespective of how they are to be
matched
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
Again, the main feature requiring
symmetry is the top collar and the lapel
facing and the same principles as with
striped materials can be applied to
checked materials, with the proviso that
the weft stripes on the collar ends and
facing are also symmetrical.

vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
SKIRTS AND TROUSERS

So far, in the sections dealing with matching and
symmetry, examples have concentrated on body
garments because these garments contain all the
features necessary to demonstrate the techniques
involved.

But the clothing industry does not just produce
body garments, it also produces skirts and
trousers and sometimes these two garments are
made from checked and striped materials
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
SKIRTS

Pleats of all kinds are a customary design
feature for skirts. When used in designs
for checked or striped skirts they can
create a problem for the cutting room.
Every pleat line on the skirt demands the
following procedures:


vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
Strict observance of grain lines

Symmetry of the pleat openings, apart
from that for the front and back

Maintenance of the fabric design
continuity in the areas containing pleats.

vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
When taken together these procedures are
costly, and whenever possible the
necessity to use them should be minimal.

As with body garments mentioned earlier,
if materials have prominent patterns these
are the central design feature of the shirt,
and the fabric is the selling focus, not
pleats and seaming. So the conclusion for
the designer is to keep it simple, because
if it is simple it is also quick
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
TROUSERS

As a rule, apart from fabrics and colors, trouser
designs concentrate on silhouette and fitting
rather than on seaming and decorative effects.

This means that matching and symmetry are
relatively simple for the cutting room. Grain lines
have to be observed, and for checks the pattern
on the leg seams has to be matched and the
pattern on the seat seam must be symmetrical.
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
If the trousers have flapped or patch
pockets, these can be matched to their
surrounding areas, or in the case of checks
the designer has the option of cutting
them on the bias. Irrespective of the
matching requirements, the fabric pattern
on pockets and other visible components
should always be symmetrical
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT
Where matching and symmetry are necessary, it
must be accepted that materials usage will be
greater than that for garments made in plain
fabrics.

This increase is slight for stripes but considerable
for checked fabrics.

However, if for any one season checks are the
fashion then the designer has, more than ever, to
punctiliously examine every intended design for
patterned fabrics in terms of labor and material
costs
vasundhara C
Assoc Prof,DFT,NIFT