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- Home - Fibers Spinning Dyeing Weaving Netting Braiding Japanese SCA A&S Meet AnneLiese Anne Liese's Fibers and Stuff Constructing Japanese Clothing Layout for Kosode on 5 yds of 45" wide fabric: Layout for Hitoe on 5 yds of 45" wide fabric: pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Constructing Kimono (Garments that hang from the shoulder and have a cross-wrapped collar): 1. Mark the the shoulder fold on the edges of each body and sleeve piece with chalk or pins (fold piece in half to find midpoint).
pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Sew the two body pieces together lengthwise, stopping about 2 inches before the shoulder fold.
Attach the sleeves to the body, matching the marks for the shoulder fold. Remember to stop the seams if the bottoms of the sleeves should be unattached for the pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API garment you're making. (NOTE: if the sleeves have selvedge edges, place them towards the wrist so you don't have to finish them later)
pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Attach one overlap piece to the front of one body piece. Do the same on the other side. (NOTE: if the overlaps have selvedges, place them away from the body so you don't have to finish those edges later) Pictures from here on with only depict half the body, with the other half greyed. Do everything on both sides so the garment stays symmetrical.
Figure out where you want the collar to wrap to on your body. This will usually be about at where your hip bone sticks out. Measure from your shoulder pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API to your hip bone (on the same side of your body). Measure the same amount down from the top of the overlap piece and mark the endpoint "A".
pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Lay your fabric on a flat surface, right side up. From the point where the back seam stops, draw a 2" line out from the back seam towards the sleeve. Now draw a line from that point straight down 4". Connect that point to "A" with a straight line. Cut out the striped area, leaving 1/2 inch seam allowance and slightly curving the corners. (NOTE: Do not lift the fabric up after you cut this out - leave it on the same surface until after you have pinned the collar on or the diagonal part of the collar will stretch) Figure out how wide you want your collar to be (usually 2-5" wide with wider collars on outer layers). Multiply that by 3 and add 1/2 inch for seam allowance (i.e. for a 3" wide collar (3"*3)=9 + .5"=9.5"). Cut your collar piece down to that width.
On an ironing board, fold one long edge of the pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API collar up one collar-width (3" in the above example) and press.
Fold the collar up one collar-width again in the same direction. There should be a 1/2 inch edge sticking out for seam allowance.
Find the midpoint of the collar and mark it on the seam allowance. Place the collar on the kimono without turning it over. Match the center of the collar to the back center seam of the kimono. The seam allowance of the collar should meet the seam allowance of the neckline.
pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API Pin the collar to the back of the neckline, down the side and down the diagonal line to "A". Let the excess collar hang free. The corners are tricky - allow the seam allowance of the collar to bunch up so you can make it around the corner. Do the same on the other side. (NOTE: If the overlaps did not have selvedges, fold the edge over twice before pinning the collar) (Once the collar is pinned on, it is now safe to pick up your kimono.)
Sew the collar to the body, being careful not to accidentally catch the folded part of the collar. Smooth the fabric as you sew the corners so it doesn't bunch under the sewing. It can bunch as much as it wants on the fabric just on either side of the seam, just not in the seam itself. After sewing the collar, clip the seam allowances at the corners to release the bunching and stretching.
pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API To finish the ends of the collar, leave the first fold of the collar in place but fold the collar inside out along the line of the second fold. Fold the seam allowance towards the collar. Sew a seam directly across them (NOT angled) starting from point "A" where they meet the overlap.
Cut off the excess and clip off the corner. Turn right side out.
Once you turn the ends right side out, you'll notice that the folded part of the collar will naturally flip to the inside. Tuck the seam allowances in and hand-sew the fold of the collar along the seam with a blind stitch.
Fold the whole kimono at the shoulder and sew the body pieces together along the side seams, then the sleeves together at the bottom. This will be two separate seams if the bottoms of the sleeves are unattached (as for hitoe). Also, if the sleeve bottoms are unattached, stop the side seams approximately where the sleeves would start if they were attached.
For any raw edges (openings of sleeves or body, pdfcrowd.com open in browser PRO version Are you a developer? Try out the HTML to PDF API bottom hem) turn twice and hand-sew using a blind stitch. If you did not french seam, finish inside raw selvedges with a machine zig-zag, serger, or whip stitch.
Congratulations, you're done.... try it on!!
Al l content copyri ght the author, Jenni fer Munson munson.j enni fer@gmai l .com The author makes no guarantees for i nstructi ons and reci pes on thi s si te; nei ther does she accept responsi bi l i ty for thei r outcomes. Verbati m copi es may be made for educati onal purposes onl y provi ded they contai n ori gi nal copyri ght marki ng. Thi s page created August 4, 2002 Last updated August 02, 2005