Recipe for Concrete Art Mold Making

1 part Portland cement

3 parts DAMP Sand
Enough water to make a thick recipe (not runny!) that you can "pat" into the mold -- add
water in increments!
IMPORTANT: Use DAMP (wet) sand for this concrete recipe! Dry sand in the mix will most
definitely cause air holes in your finished item.
If you wish to add color to this concrete recipe, then I've got just the information you
need. Here are the VERY BEST and most thorough guides available on the internet:
Concrete Colorant Guides
Fill the mold with your mixture and "pat-pat" with your hands to pack the mixture into your
concrete art mold.
OK, you've tackled this first step. Now, the next very important step is allowing your concrete
art object to properly cure / harden.
Once your concrete art item has hardened, remove it from the mold.
Now, you must keep it consistently WET for at least 3 days. This can be accomplished by either soaking it in a tub of
water a couple of times a day; or spraying it down with the hose, etc. To aid in maintaining a high moisture
(dampness) level, you can cover your concrete art item with plastic.
This "keep it wet" step will allow the curing process to continue properly AND will make the concrete hold together.
Without following this important step, you'll have a brittle concrete object that will ultimately fall apart.
Follow this set of instructions, and I assure you, you will have a successful project.
Many a hypertufa maker has had the sad experience of having their project start to crack, crumble
or not even set solid.
It just starts falling to pieces soon after it starts to cure.
And many remain baffled as to why it happened.
They followed the recipe to a "T", but after they applied the mixture to the mold, everything seemed to start
going downhill from there. Although it's said that making hypertufa is almost as easy as making a "mud-pie", there
are some important facts to know that will greatly increase the odds that all your 'tufa projects will be successful.
Even a few minutes without the right level of moisture
can cause severe cracking
and the loss of many hours of work.
Unfortunately, even a slight breeze in your workspace can rob enough moisture from your mixture to cause it to fail.
The less air movement around you, the more moisture you'll keep in. Avoid breezes while you are working. Sorry,
you definitely don't want to have a fan pointed at yourself to stay cool while you're working on your project!
If you are doing your hypertufa project outside, dealing with breezes can be frustrating. Mother Nature isn't very
accommodating in letting us know when a breeze or gust of wind will happen. Try to find a sheltered spot you can
work in.
You've applied all the hypertufa mixture and are happy with your garden art object so far. Great you're moving
along in the right direction.
Here's your next step: carefully place your object into a large black plastic trash bag (or similar) and seal it up
tightly. (If your object is too heavy to lift, then do your best to cover with black plastic. Keep in mind you are trying
to retain moisture to help the object dry slowly.) Plastic trash bags, plastic roll sheeting, anything that is air and
moisture tight will also do the job.
Additional step: many 'tufa makers will thoroughly mist the object with water before sealing up the bag. As
I've said elsewhere on these pages, there is no exact science to anything regarding hypertufa. That
includes the "best way" to cure it. It's frustrating, but the truth is while one technique may work for
one 'tufa maker, that same technique may not be successful for another. Trial and error will show you
what works for you.
Seal the bag as air tight as possible. You may want to inflate it a little to help keep it from touching (and possibly
making an unwanted impression on) your object's surface.
We're moving right along ... what's the next steps?
Two Options: Place It in Direct Sunlight or
Keep It In The Shade ... Either Will Work
Here we go again one hypertufa maker swears by one method, and another says "I've never had to do that. My
pieces always come out great". OK, take your pick. Try it either way. From my experience, these both work, and
depending upon how large an object you've made, the spot you are able to leave it undisturbed during the curing
process and other factors like these, will determine which method you will use or have to use. It's up to you.
If you cannot place your project where it will receive direct sunlight, fine. Your next step will be to periodically open
the bag, mist the surface to keep it moist, and reclose (or recover your larger object) after misting.
If you can place it where it will receive direct sunlight, that's fine, too. Try to put it where it will get as much direct
sun as possible. Because the bag is sealed, it creates a very hot environment. The heat will cause a lot of moisture to
be released from the hydrating cement. The moisture will condense on the inside of the sealed black plastic bag and
now you have an "automatic" water supply that will help keep your object properly hydrated while curing. A built in
"mister".
This First Stage of Curing Lasts About 2 to 4 Days
How long does it take a hypertufa project to dry? It depends upon the humidity and temperature. And the recipe
you used; also how thickly you applied the 'tufa to the mold. This is why making hypertufa is not a set of cut and dry
rules. Experience in experimenting with recipes and different types of projects brings you the expertise, just like
everything else in life!
After approximately 24 hours you will want to test your new, and still curing, hypertufa object. Carefully open the
bag (or uncover) and see if your fingernail can scratch off any 'tufa. If you can, seal it back up and wait another 12-36
hours. When you can't really scratch any off (without some difficulty), you're ready to unmold your object. Your
object is still a bit fragile! Remove from the mold carefully.
If you want to add texture to the object's surface, you need to do that now before you move on to the
next step.
Caution: when handling damp pieces you should wear your gloves! Your hands need to be protected.
Gingerly place your object back into the plastic bag and seal tightly. You can now keep your object at room
temperature. Continue to keep it moist, misting occasionally if needed. Allow it to cure for at least another week but
the longer it can slowly cure in a moist environment, the better.
At this point, most 'tufa makers will keep the object bagged up for a month or more. (I've seen it written that a one
month cure time can result in 25% stronger 'tufa). As my dear Grandma used to say, "Patience is a virtue". You too
need to be patient. Remember what I just told you. The longer and more slowly it can cure in a moist environment,
the stronger your hypertufa will be. Curing will also take longer at cooler temperatures.
Alright, now you're ready to get rid of that black plastic bag! Your new garden art object can be removed and left
until it is completely dried ... you'll know if it sounds hollow when tapped.
You're not quite done yet. There is one more important thing to consider ...
Cured Hypertufa is Very Alkaline
Due to the Portland cement, the 'tufa ends up being very alkaline. If you have ever seen a white powdery residue
on new cement, that is the free lime leaching out. This lime causes the alkalinity. Most agree that the lime is toxic to
most plants and therefore needs to be leached from the object if you are going to use it as a planter.
Here's where "I have success doing it this way" and "I have success doing it that way" comes into play again. You can
find many varying methods on leaching out the lime. Personally, I have successfully followed an easy method: I soak
my 'tufa planter in a larger container of fresh water. I change the water every day for 3 days. It is plant safe by
then.
Note: The lime can still burn your skin so wear your gloves. If the planter is too large to fit into another
container, I'll hose it down once or twice a day for 3-5 days.
Other recommendations are to leave the planter outside for 1 or up to 2 months, allowing it to weather naturally by
being rained upon. I've even read of leaching baths concocted from various chemicals -- and chemicals that are not
very user friendly. I've read of others spraying down the hypertufa with household vinegar. From my research and
experience, I wouldn't consider the chemical or vinegar suggestions as satisfactory methods.
On a side note, if you are going to be making planters, think about tackling a "planter project" in the fall or winter.
You will have ample time for a proper curing and you can put it outside to leach naturally. Your planter will be ready
by spring and you'll not have lost any valuable growing time.
If You're Not Quite Sure Hypertufa-Making Is For You ...
Save Some Money And Try This Recipe
This hypertufa recipe is a good choice for someone who's never tried making 'tufa but certainly wants to get going
and make a new garden art object. You can give it a try and see if working with hypertufa is a craft that really excites
and inspires you.
While the necessary ingredients required for this recipe will not break the bank, be advised they do come in large
quantities. The only difference in this and the other hypertufa recipes on my site is this one uses a premixed blend of
Portland cement and sand.
**Note: I'll give a free plug to the "Quikrete" company and say that you'll very easily find their "Sand (Topping) Mix" in
the yellow bag at most hardware and big-box DIY stores. If you're lucky, some stores in some states carry 10lb bags.
Otherwise, 40lbs. is the smallest bag available. Either way, you are still saving money using this hypertufa recipe.
Peat moss can be readily purchased at your local gardening supplier or DIY store's garden center.
Perlite can be purchased in smaller quantities, again at your local gardening supplier or DIY store's garden center.
Vermiculite, on the other hand, is harder to find due to bad publicity about a certain vermiculite mine awhile back.
Now most of the DIY stores no longer stock it. But the good news is that it continues to be used by professional pool
contractors and large greenhouse growers, to name a few. You may have to make a few phone calls to locate either
of these important hypertufa recipe ingredients.
What project do you have in mind? I suggest you start with what is probably the easiest beginner's project -- a
trough. I've got two excellent sources of information on my website to help you.
If You Want To Make Really Smooth Stepping Stones,
Try This Easy Recipe Using Fine Sand
This concrete stepping stones recipe is an excellent choice for when you want a really smooth result.
In addition, this recipe is carvable, so if you want to add a design to the stone (such as the example pictured above),
or maybe you just would like to carve your signature, or add a saying of some sort onto the surface, then I'd say give
this easy stepping stones recipe a try. :-)
Smooth Concrete Stepping Stone Recipe
1 part portland cement (sifted)
3 parts fine sand (sifted)
Optional: Concrete dye colorants
Enough water to make a mud-pie consistency
MATERIALS NEEDED:
A form or mold of some sort with REMOVEABLE SIDES;
Carving tools (spoons, screwdrivers, etc. work fine);
Bucket for water; old sponge to wipe off surface of stone.
**You might want to use white portland cement if you want a colored stone. Regular portland is grey, so of course
this affects the final outcome of whatever colorant you may choose to use. However, white portland cement can be
harder to find, depending upon where you live.
As far as combining the three ingredients, as I've noted sifting the portland cement and the sand is recommended
IF you desire a super smooth result. Otherwise measure out the portland cement and sand in the ratios given and
break up any lumps with your gloved hands.
Then ... slowly add in some water; mix and stir (or blend it in with your gloved hands). Keep adding a little bit of
water, mix it in, and add a little more until your have the mid-pie, or some like to say "peanut butter", consistency.

There Is A Procedure For Correctly Combining
Your Hypertufa Recipe's Ingredients
There is no sense in making mistakes during the mixing process. As with most things in life, we certainly can learn
from others mishaps. I truly want you to avoid unnecessary guesswork so that your 'tufa garden art project turns
out a success.
So, that being said, let me share some important guidelines to follow.
To give you an idea of "how much hypertufa does it take to make a ?" Alright, here is a loose rule-of-thumb:
30 lbs. of Portland cement
1 cubic foot compressed peat moss
and 1.5 cubic feet of perlite
should yield enough mixture to make an 8-inch x 12-inch x 12-inch trough.
If you're mixing up a large quantity of one of these hypertufa recipes, divide the mixture into smaller batches to
make it easier to blend.
Measure the dry ingredients into a large container such as a wheelbarrow. Use a shovel, concrete trowel, garden
hand trowel or similar for mixing.
Make sure all ingredients are thoroughly blended before adding water. Mix and blend more than you think you
need to!
Step-By-Step Instructions For A Successful Outcome
#1) Ok, your mixture is ready! Now you can fill your form. Add it in increments, patting it down with your hands as
you go along. You want to do your best to remove trapped air bubbles. Keep going until you have completely filled it
up to the height you desire.
Also, many people pick up the edge of their form a few inches, and let it drop down onto the work surface, whereby
helping to bring any other air bubbles up to the surface. This is just another way to "tap-tap" out the bubbles.
#2) Note: at this point there will be some excess water starting to collect on the surface. That's OK ... this is what is
supposed to happen. (You're doing great!)
#3) Using your gloved hands or a trowel, or if you are more particular a long stick to pull across the top ... smooth
the surface of your stepping stone.
#4) Let your stone cure. You do not cover the surface with plastic. It will take at least three (3) hours, probably
closer to six (6) hours to cure enough before you can remove the sides of the form. Once hard enough (cured), you
may carefully remove the sides of your form.
Now is a good time to wash off and clean up your form. You don't want the concrete to set up on it!
#5) Now, you may begin carving. (If you see any white, flaky looking scale on the concrete, just scrape it off. This is a
deposit that forms on concrete ... you've not goofed up in the recipe. All's OK!)
You can use just about any object or tool you can think of to do your carving. Try to keep the "waste" concrete
collected in a bucket or container, as it makes your clean up much easier.
You can use a damp sponge to help smooth areas, or you can mist a little bit of water if need be (do NOT add much--
just mist a little!).
#6) When you're done with your carving, take your damp sponge, and gently run it over the outside edges, to
smooth them off.
#7) Let your concrete stepping stone sit uncovered for 24 hours. Try to mist it 3 times during the 24 hours, if
possible.
#8) After 24 hours, carefully turn over the stone onto something soft. An old towel or even piece of carpet will do.
Using a flat edged item (piece of metal or even a trowel), or a damp sponge, smooth off the edges of the bottom of
the stone. You can sign and date the stone now, if you want to.
#9) You're almost done. :-) I suggest you take your new stone outside and hose it off to give it a good clean-up and
to wet it down. Then, place it inside a plastic bag; close up the bag; and let it cure for a week. You may want to check
on the moisture level in the bag every day or so. You can mist more water into the bag if necessary. Dampness is
required for a proper cure, and a proper cure is what produces a good hard stepping stone!
#10) That's it. Now you can remove your concrete stepping stone from the bag and place it where you desire.
However, I would still not walk on it for another week or two, as honestly, the cure is still continuing and a full cure
takes about a month. If it were me, I'd err on the side of caution, rather than not!
Add The Water Slowly ... You Can Always Add More
How do you know what is enough or not enough water? There is a pretty good test you can do and I'll get to that in
a second. I just want to mention this for your benefit:
There are many variables that will affect the amount of water needed for each hypertufa recipe. It
might be that the peat moss you're using on a current project is much drier than what you used on a
previous project. The humidity may be much lower/higher than the last time you did a project.
The APPROXIMATE amount of water needed MAY or MAY NOT be 1 to 1-1/2 parts water (in relation to the dry
ingredients "parts"). Be on the safe side, slowly add your water to your thoroughly blended dry mix. Add water until
you have a damp mixture. One that is not crumbly but also not oozing with water.
Next, take a 10 minute break from the whole mixing process. Let the water "soak in" a bit. This is an invaluable
suggestion ... so do it!
After your 10 minute break, begin to blend and stir everything again. Make sure your hypertufa recipe is equally
moistened.
Test your mixture for the proper consistency by taking a handful of mix. Squeeze it into a ball that will hold
together when you open your hand. A little bit of water can slightly ooze between your fingers.Remember that this
mixture must be able to cling to your mold and stay put and not start sagging.
Hypertufa ... A Mud-Pie Recipe That Is Used
To Make All Sorts of Garden Art Objects
Hypertufa is perfect for making long lasting garden troughs (plant containers), fake rocks and boulders, stepping
stones, wonderfully whimisical garden spheres and all sorts of decorative garden accents. Smooth it over a form or
mold, let it properly cure (dry) and youll have a very durable DIY garden art treasure for years to come.
Exactly what is it? Hypertufa (pronounced hyper-toofa) is the term used for a type of artificial stone. It was first
created in the mid 19th century by mixing sand, peat, various volcanic aggregates and cement. Its relatively
lightweight compared to stone or concrete and no matter how cold your winter temps may be, if properly cured, is
freeze proof.
Hypertufa was concocted to be used as a substitute for the natural volcanic rock called Tufa. Tufa has been used
for making Alpine style planting troughs. Unfortunately, it is not readily available anymore.
Most deposits have been depleted and it is increasingly difficult to find. I've read that there are only two deposits
left in the United Kingdom, with a site in Wales having the best quality; there is some in East Germany; there are a
few deposits left in the United States; and Canada has an excellent deposit located in Brisco, BC.