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Craftof Writing MariaFatimaA. Viltena

Manila'sHeritage.tHi+4lntrarnuros

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lntramuroshas-bee*flrernost-travelled

in'thehistorically-richManila. Peopletravelthis

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corningbacfwhat

isknownasthe. yileAlY''.

Every

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studies.

andfathersandgrandmothers,usuallyeldersattheprime

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of theirlivelgo backto Intrarnurosto rekindlethepassionof theirgloriouspastor sometimesevenviolentmemories ,/ maybeto putbehindtheburdenSthel"ysbeencarryingfor thepast.5() years or so. n

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I, forone.havebeenanIntrarnurosaficionado.Sincem\,eleme"fuIlnavffio 0nt'4t*

theplacefivetimesand

I almostmemorizeeverycornerof its walls. Yet" its wallsseeurto becallingme andl.decidedto givetheplaceanother

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tour.Nou'.I antgoingtobewalkingaroundaloneandnotail'Igre u'ithclassmatesorfriendsofeg{torrg

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AsIentertlregatesofFortSarrtiago.,funk1ffiatimecapsrrlervhereIcanpossiblyrubelbor,vs

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rryitlrMariaC1araarrdCrisostornoIbarra.n!i{a.iourner,todhepasr'indeed,Mnowdefuncteraof

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Hispanicgrandeurairdrnig1rt.LiketlretradiIionatFiiipina'IW,*,,,.,,u,ifIamwearing^y9ara,'outfit

of fine linenandsilk.coupledu,ithanunbrellaand "panvolito" arrda chokerin theneck.

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experienceandlearntheplaceUvrr.ort.f,&naodnow.nU'perceptiorlaboutIntramurornffier

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changed.Thatit isa

true. in therealsenseof theword. authentichistoricalconfinernentof Manila'sculturalandHispanicheritage.

Ilistorv savsit all

Intrarnuroswastltecenterof it all. It wasknorvnto beManila.then.

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Prosperitl'ruledoverthecommuritiesresidingalongthebanksof PasigRiverandthis includf{tlaynilad. a

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palisadedfort. ruledby rajahSolimiur"a nativechieftain.tJrecitadelrvasatradecenterfor Asiangoods.

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Theold settlementhadvanisheduponthearirral of the Spaniardsandin its placeroseHispanicIntramuros,

walledandmoated.Ledby MartindeGoitiandlaterb1'conquistaclorMiguelLopezdeLegazpi.thelogpalisadeof the

MalaychiefsbecameSpain'sfarthestoutpost.the'capitalandsealof Spanishsovereigntyin theOrient.

For almostfour hundredyearsuntil its destmctionin 19"15.

Inrrarnuro,o%"enter

ofTrade*L

commerce.Fromitspalacetro.uuig@overned.

Fromitscathedralandmonasteril*a#iielon

$irt9/ofr-,,,.1/*trcated

Theconstructionof defensesconsistingof highstonervalls. bullwarksandmoatswaspromptedbecauseof

threatsof invasion.Thewallsstretchedto 4.5kitometefinlength"enclosinga pentagonalareaof approximately64

hectares.Residences.churches.palaces.schoolsairdgovernmentbuildingssurroundedthearea.Entrywasmade

possiblethrough gzlteswith dravvbridgeswhich rvereclosedbefore midnight and openedat the break of dawn.

It wasin thisuumnerthatflrecity eamedthenalneIntramuros,meaning"within thewalls".

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f Uu, ther,r,alls.though. did notdiscourageotherarnbitiousEuropeanpowers.Dutchpiratesdrearnedof taking

overtheplaceandtheBritishinvadedit andruledfor ahnosttrvo 1,ears.

Intramurostookthedeiuhblon'u,hentheArnericansliberatedthePhilippinesfromtheJapanesein 1945.

lglren-it wasover. Intraururoswasa deadcitr'.

After theUnitedStatesrecognizedPhilippineIndependence.nochangeshaveoccurredin theryalledcjw*.The

/LLe/r'' devastationit hadaccumulatedafterthe"savagesof r,,arrnadethecitr evenmoredespairing.It becameavastwasteland

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overrunby squattersandwarehouses.

OnApril 10.1979.PresidentialDecree1616createdtheIntramurosA&ninistrationto urdertaketherestoration

anddevelopmentof Intramurosasa rnonlrmentto theHispanicperiodin Philippinehistory.

nationallreritagetlut rvasleftofourHispanicperiod.,rrr ffi"*s

cultivatingappreciationin themindsof theFilipinopeople.

X'ortSantiago.nneuitomeof grcatness

InsideIntrarnurosareotherhistoricalattractiorg /"rof

in itsconquestforhistoricalvalueandin

tt'/u

u,hichisFortSantiago.It is namedin honor$

SpanishpatronsaintJames"slayerof moors(SantiagoMatarnoros).FortSantiagoservedasthemilitaryheadquartersof

theSpanish.British. AmericanandJapaneseregirnes.DuringtheJapaneseoccupatiorqit wasa dreadedplace.

Hundredsof menandwomenwere jailed. torturedandexecuteclbl theJapanesernilitarypoliceinsideits dungeon/

In the1950s.it wasrestoredasapublicpart afterit rvasdestroyedby Americanforcesduringthe1945Battle

of Manila. It wasdeclaredasthe"Shrineof Freedour"b1,'theCongressof thePhilippines.

*€a*{al'{+}eLJltte\ryholeof Fort Santiagois interestingandhistoricalbutfur+sreqrphasq/the

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a-

rnost

memorablesight is the Memorial Cross. It rnarksthe corurnongra\,eof 600$odies-o6rerillas andcivilians found inside

the powdermagazineof Baluartede SantaBarbaraafter World War IL

The Rizal Slrine at the left is zllnuseulnin honor of the nationalhero. At the entranceis a life-sizepaintingof

Rizal's executionandcarvedinf

o/ilr)

glassis his Last Faren'ellPoern. The Chamberof Text housesthe nuurerousrvorksof

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the nationalhero. Startingu,ith a sculptureof Rizal in /uood.

therrhis specirnensandutensilsasa medicaldoctor. The

original rnanuscriptsof his trvo greatnorrels-Noli

Me Tangercand El Filibusterislnoarealsosituatedin the rnuseurn

protectedby glasspanels.

nyv-

Rizal's "reliku,aryos" areseenattheStainvellGallen:ytfc secondfloorof themuseum.TheReliquaryRoom

containshisdugbonerryithbulletplaceclin anivon'urn. Clothes.coatandfencingswords l6'e rryithinglasspanels.

Lastlv.theConteurplationRoouror cellrvhereRiz-alstavedin seclusionbeforehisexecutionisalsoamust-see

attractionin the uluseur

-novel and flilfilling experienceto be relishedasa Filipino citizen of

CasaManila. a reflectionof Hisltnnic grandeur

ftrr-,1

CasaManila is a "colonial lifestvle"nurseLrp+:A sectionof PlazaSanLuis Cornplex"a commercial-cultural

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comp1ex.tlrefacadey'oftlrislnLlSeLI111i't@'colorrialperiocldesigns.T1rernainfacadeofCasaMarrilais

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copiedfrorn a houseat Calle Jabonerosin SanNicolas. a distlict acrossthe river. The rvallsof the gtourd floors are

,-{rNuu

rnadeof adobestonesandthesearequarriedfronr Makati andJvtevcauvan,Bulacanduring the Spanishcolonialperiod.

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Thernuseumis a Spanishstvlehousethatshou'sthegrancleurof Spanishlivingherein thePhilippinesand

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presentthe differenceof the upperclassto the lou'er class. This colonial housesserveseveralroolns.

ZaguanandPatio. Zagutnis anarabicu'ordrneaning "corridor." It is throughzaguanthatthecarriages

enteredanddepositedpassengersby thestairs.

Entre,suelo. It literally uleans "betu'een floors". This is u'lrcrcclients,

being admittedin the oficina.

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tradesmenandestateuranaqersbefore

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Despachoor Oficina.Thisisu4reretheou'nerof thehouscconductedbusiness.

L-uarlo,s.Theseareroomssituatedattheentresueiofor extendedfamilies.

(-aicla or.lntesala. Thc word caidailra\ probzrbh'rfrom thc Spanisltcaer(to fall). becauseherethe ladieslet

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fall their long. voluminous skirts. The rootn is useclbv the faurih' cluringthe day for playing parlor galnes. eltertaining

closefriends andhaving merienda.

Sala. Verv importantpeopleareentertainedin the sala. This is thereforedecoratedto show off one's statusin

soclety.

oratorio.

The farnilv gathershereeven,night to pral the rosaryand Angelus.

BlueRoonr. It housesartisticallvandcreativelvclrau,uuall paintings.

Cuarto Principal. The tnasterrooln useclbv the ou,nerl'ith rnarblervashstandthat sened as

syrnbolin the socictr,during the Hispanicperiocl

(-omedor. The dining room u'hereplaterasaresituateclcontainingthe family's porcelain. silver andglassrvare.

Cocina.

This is the kitchen u'ith stovetoltrr.adeof ashanclu'ater.

Letrina. The familv's toiletroourandis goodfor tu,opersolls.

Baiio. The batlroom containstu'o sizesof buiierasuradcol'stonewarefrom China.

Azotea. Activities requiring plentl' of u,atersuchasthe laundryaredonehere.

SanAgustin Museum. a monument of strength

w This tuonasterywascouvertedinto a lnuseul'llaftcrthehallsu,ererestoredin 1973. It wasoriginallyusedby

Azustiniansastheirlivingquarters.classroom.rel'ectory'.I'estn,.sacristy,librarvandinfirman,.Severalu,ars

Ka|-------

destroyedits r.lallsandfoundationsbut rniraculousl_rstooclup to thisclay.

There's tnuchto be saidaboutthe tnuseutnbut the urostprortrising of them all is the "sala de profundis" /crypt.

It u'ztsthefortner cliningrooln of the priests. Tlte untere.fbct.rtr.t'u as trsedby the prieststo savgracebeforeald after

d.

lt.,

tneals.It rvasconrrertedto-mausoleutufor theAfirstiniansandlateronfor Filipinofamilies.A nonumentrecallsthe

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victirnsof theJapaneseoccupation(19{2--15).

Ifow to reachIntramuros?

Frotntheheartof thecitl of Quiapo. \'ouc:urridea Picr/Quiapojeepnev thatwouldtakeyouto FortSantiago

in lessthan30tninutes.InsideFortSantiagoisthcinfonnertiouccntcru4rereyoucangeta rvalkingtourbroclurethat

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would getyou to tttttneroushistoricalattractionsiu Intralnuros. ln the brochureis a mapttlflffitd

guideyou

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dt,.

throtrglrout voui toursincetouristsguideareonlvavailableuponthcrequestdofofficialguests "g6ig^tories. Entrance

feesfor adultsrangcslrom P40to P50pcsosancllbr slrrclents;rnclclrilclrenfrornPl-5to P30pesos.A cheaptreat

cornpareclto a hostof historicale.rpericurfurrnrrrr

,/' CasaManila. SanAgustinMuscum. BahavTsinor unclAcnarioclcManila.

llncl. A conrltlcrctourat theIntrarnurosincludeFort Santiago.

Be it for thcsakeof stittrrreitncltourisnr.oncthingis lbr srrrc.theillustriouspastof Intramurosu'ill starand

lingerontltepageSofourlristorrbooksandthrorrglrtltcsclristoricalStrLlctuf?rr'eeonti+uc

.ettltttft#heritrse.

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