Woodworker's Journal - Vol 31, Issue 6 - Nov-Dec 2007

186.
001News
9/25/07
12:30 PM
Page 1
LOOK INSIDE! OUR BIGGEST ROUTER ISSUE EVER!

Woodworkers Journal
Americas leading woodworking authority
December 2007
Turned Ornaments Roll-Up Table Built-in Wall Cabinet Router Bits and Lifts
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December
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Holiday Ornaments
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DETAILS
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F ine w o o dw o r k ing is all ab ou t pr e cision. N o one k no w s that b e t te r than
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W o o d w o r k e r s
J o u r n a l
Vo l u m e 3 1 , N u m b e r 6
November/December 2007
30
Turned Holiday Ornaments

By Betty Scarpino
Deck the halls and trees with these classic ornaments.
Woodworking for Your Home

60
38
Cabinet Shell Game
By Ian Kirby
The master takes you on a tour of the sights (and smells) of
the hide glue era and considers its relevance today.
By Rob Johnstone
Our editor in chief works on the home
front to turn an old corner eyesore
into an attractive feature.
83
Secrets of Hide Glue
Three-taper Dinette Table

By Chris Marshall
Heres a stylish kitchen table
you can complete
in a weekend
using just three
shop machines!
44
Tambour-topped Traveling Table

By Sandor Nagyszalanczy
This elegant living room coffee table rolls up and takes a ride
out to the country, where it can be quickly reassembled.
66
Create Your Own Router Table Kit

By Chris Marshall
We show you how to mix and match top quality components,
to create or to customize your next router table.
Page 83
December 2007 Woodworkers Journal
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W o o d w o r k e r s
J o u r n a l
D e part ment s
November/December 2007
Vo l u m e 3 1 , N u m b e r 6
Page 26
12 Editors Note
Comments from our new woodworker in chief.
16 Letters
Readers reflect on Mike McGlynns legacy.
20 Tricks of the Trade
Taking signature pride in your craftsmanship.
22 Questions & Answers
Keeping routers in line; cutting rabbets.
26 Shop Talk
Raising the flag: a tall, tall flagpole.
36 Stumpers
Ponying up on the solution to our mystery tool.
Page 96
Page 28
51 Powering Up Your Router

Tips and techniques that will help you use your
router with safety and ease.
92 Jigs & Fixtures
Can you make custom spaced dovetails with
a $99 jig? Our field editor takes the ChestMate
for a test ride.
112 Finishing Thoughts
Refinishing rules revisited, with Michael Dresdner.
70 Tool Review
New contributing editor George Vondriska
reviews router lifts of all styles and price points.
96 Todays Shop
Bill Hyltons straight talk on a router bit family
that is, surprisingly, not all that straightforward!
110 Whats In Store
New tools and accessories: routers and bits,
saws, miter sleds and more.
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woodworkersjournal.com
More Woodworking on the Web
woodworkersjournal.com ...
resourcedigest.com ... Looking

for some new tools to fulfill your wish list
this year? Visit the Woodworkers Journal
Resource Digest, where the Toolin for
Tools Ultimate Giveaway stands ready to
make those wishes come true: make an
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Like to curl up with a good book on an

occasional winter evening?
Woodworker's Journal has
just the sort of titles youre
looking for. Check out the
Woodworking Books section
on our home page to find
everything from Craftsman
Furniture Projects to Jigs
and Fixtures for the Table
Saw and Router. Weve put
together a great package deal
on our first six books!
Porter Cables new Belt Sander
More on
the Web ...
The new Woodworkers Journal

Premium eZine, launched this
fall, offers lots of extras to subscribers like the ability to share
pictures of your shops or your
projects, to post your woodworking
tricks, take quizzes, read even more
about woodworking techniques
than you already receive in print,
and soon (Rob swears!) streaming
video of cool woodworking stuff! If
youre not already getting the eZine
in your inbox, visit our home page
to find out how you can.
Check out the

More on the
Web link on our
home page for bonus bits that wouldnt fit
in the magazine, including more pictures
of winners from the San Diego Fine
Woodworkers Assocation Design in Wood
show, much more about the giant flagpole
built at Fort Snelling (85 feet!)
including video and more.
Matched Jewelry
Box and Table by
John Schmitz
Quik-Link If you need more information on the tools that appear in our pages
the Milescraft TurnLock, Rocklers 45
Miter Sled, or any of those high-tech router
lifts in George Vondriskas article Quik-Link will get you to the info in a
hurry. Anytime you see the Quik-Link icon in the magazine, you can visit
our home page at woodworkersjournal.com, click on Quik-Link and
instantly find yourself on the exact page that features the product youre
looking for ... no stopovers or side trips along the way!
Use Quik-Link for details

on tools like Milescrafts
TurnLock (left) or Rocklers
new 45 Miter Sled.
ROCKLER PRESS
THE VOICE OF THE WOODWORKING COMMUNITY
Woodworkers Journal (ISSN: 0199-1892), is published in February, April, June, August, October and December by Rockler Press Inc.,
4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340. Periodical postage paid at Medina, Minnesota and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all address
changes to Woodworkers Journal, P.O. Box 56583, Boulder, CO 80322-6583. Subscription Rates: One-year, $19.95 (U.S.); $25.95 U.S. funds (Canada
and other countries). Single copy price, $5.99 (U.S.); $7.99 (Canada/other countries). Reproduction without permission prohibited. Publications
Mail Agreement Number 0861065. Canadian Publication Agreement #40009401. 2007 Rockler Press Inc. Printed in USA.
10
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Page 12
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2007
Volume 31, Number 6
ROB JOHNSTONE Editor in Chief
Your New Editor in Chief
JOANNA WERCH TAKES Senior Editor

CHRIS MARSHALL Field Editor
JEFF JACOBSON Senior Art Director
his is it, the beginning of a new era. Sometimes its easy to miss this sort of
thing, so Im taking it upon myself to let you all know: this is my first editorial
as the official editor in chief. How does an eccentric shop rat from rural Minnesota
end up on this page? Ill give you the condensed version. First, I like to build
things. For as long I can remember, there have been
no mysteries in my mind about how to build things,
from childish treehouses to dreadnaught guitars ...
all simply puzzles to solve and limitations to challenge,
be it with hammer and nail or chisel and mallet. I still
clearly recall my early days of woodworking, when
I would actually lie awake at night visualizing joinery
solutions to projects I was working on.
That passion for woodworking led me to an
Rob building stuff in the 1980s.
advanced formal (graduation from a school of
luthiery) and informal (working in my dads cabinet
shop starting when I was 13) education in the craft.
And then, by accident, I stumbled into publishing.
Publishing constructing a magazine pushes all
the same buttons in my brain as woodworking. Its
creative, complicated and collaborative and
I find myself lying awake some nights, visualizing
In Norm Abrams workshop.
solutions to current publishing challenges.
After 14 years of blending my passions for these
two wonderful crafts (with invaluable mentoring
from our new publisher, Larry Stoiaken), I have
been promoted to editor in chief of this grand old
publication. It is a blessing and an honor that I take
seriously, but as those who have read my articles
over the years know, you dont have to worry about
me getting too serious. While Larry trained me well,
After 38 years of following
he and I are quite different. He is, at heart, a writer
woodworking wherever it took
passionate about words. I am a woodworker
him (note his gray hair), Rob
passionate about, well, woodworking.
Johnstone is ready for his new
So, what changes will I bring to your Journal? Its
assignment editor in chief.
a fair question to ask, but I dont have the space here
to tell you everything I have in mind. What I can tell you is that I understand my job
is to inspire, inform, educate and entertain you with the highest quality stories,
articles and projects. And further, I need to do that using the very best woodworking
authors in the country (who I am proud to say I already have on board). But I also
understand that it doesnt hurt to have a bit of fun. Our shared passion is both a
pursuit and a process and is meant to be enjoyed along the way. So ... are you
completely sure there are strings attached to those circular saws?
JOE FAHEY Associate Art Director

NANCY OHM Content Coordinator
LARRY N. STOIAKEN Publisher
DANA SEVERSON Advertising Director
ALYSSA TAUER Advertising Operations
MARY TZIMOKAS Circulation Director
KELLY ROSAAEN Circulation Manager
MEG CLARK Direct Mail Manager
Founder and CEO

ANN ROCKLER JACKSON
Editorial Advisors
NORTON ROCKLER JOHN KELLIHER
Contributing Editors
MICHAEL DRESDNER
RICK WHITE
GEORGE VONDRISKA
ADVERTISING SALES
J.F. Van Gilder Company
12740 Hillcrest Plaza Dr., Suite 120
Dallas, Texas 75230
DAVID BECKLER david@jvgco.com
TERRI MATHIS terri@jvgco.com
JIM VAN GILDER jim@jvgco.com
Phone: (972) 392-1892

Fax: (972) 392-1893
Member
EDITORIAL INQUIRIES
ROB JOHNSTONE
rjohnstone@woodworkersjournal.com
763-478-8255
JOANNA WERCH TAKES
jtakes@woodworkersjournal.com
763-478-8303
CHRIS MARSHALL
cmarshall@woodworkersjournal.com
614-746-2985
SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES
(800) 765-4119 or
www.woodworkersjournal.com.
Write Woodworkers Journal, P.O. Box 56583,
Boulder, CO 80322-6583. E-mail:
woodworkersjournal@neodata.com. Include
mailing label for renewals and address
changes. For gift subscriptions, include your
name and address and your gift recipients.
BOOK SALES AND BACK ISSUES

Featured Author: Ian Kirby
(see page 38)
Ian has been writing for us for seven years. He is, in my opinion,
the dean of active woodworking authors. In addition to being
trained as a woodworker, he was formerly a university professor.
His love of teaching is clearly on display as you read his many
articles with us. Ian is also a great cook, whose hospitality Ive
thoroughly enjoyed to the detriment of my expanding waistline.
Rob Johnstone
12
Call: (800)610-0883
www.woodworkersjournal.com
VISIT OUR HOME PAGE:

2007 Rockler Press Inc.
Printed in USA
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Page 14
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Page 16
Woodworkers Feel The Loss
Mikes last project for

the Journal was a
Greene & Greene
inspired bed. Many of
our readers have
already completed their
version of the bed.
Farewell to Mike
Mail Call! Contact us by
writing to Letters,
Woodworkers Journal,
4365 Willow Drive, Medina,
Minnesota 55340, by fax
at (763) 478-8396 or by e-mail:
letters@woodworkersjournal.com
We ask that all letters,
including e-mails, include
a mailing address and phone
number. We reserve the right
to edit for length and clarity.
I write this letter in a state

of shock and grief that is
uncommon to my ritual
of reading the pages of
Woodworkers Journal.
I write, with unexpected
sorrow, of the far too
premature death of master
woodworker Mike McGlynn
[Goodbye Mike, August
2007]. It is a tragic loss
that takes from us such
a talented and intelligent
human being in the prime
of his life. I did not know
Mike, nor was I extensively
familiar with his work,
though I always made a point
of reading his articles, and
I was always impressed
with his knowledge and
mastery of the Greene
and Greene style.
I am saddened beyond
words for the loss that
the staff and the family
A young Mike McGlynn

was featured on the
cover of Todays
Woodworker (later to
merge with the
Journal ) back in
September 1995.
16
and friends of Mike must

be experiencing.
As a former rock climber
myself, I can only imagine
Mike was seduced by the
wonderful sport of climbing
for its required skill, fitness,
grace and love of nature.
Perhaps of all the ways to
pass, we may find comfort
knowing that Mike died in
the midst of what he loved.
So, I offer a tribute to
Mike, for the passion with
which he chose to live his
life and the courage to reach
just a bit farther than most
to taste all that this amazing
world has to offer. The
expression of his work speaks
volumes about the quality
of his character, and I will
truly miss his contributions
to life and your publication.
God bless all of you, and God
bless Mike.
Matthew Cianci
Warwick, Rhode Island
I was greatly saddened
to hear about Mikes
unfortunate passing. After
building the Greene and
Greene bed he designed,
I decided to build the full
bedroom set. I eagerly
awaited each issue of

Woodworkers Journal and
quickly skimmed through
them in search for the next
component of the bedroom
set. Although I enjoy articles
and projects from other
trusted authorities, I will
miss Mikes, as well as his
unique humor.
Josh Twente
Napoleon, Missouri
Another Knotty Solution

Here is what I do with knots
to keep them from falling out
and/or shrinking [Questions
& Answers, August 2007]:
I force stainable wood glue
in the cracks and let it dry.
Or I simply remove the knot
and glue it back in place.
Dave Lascher
Sun Lakes, Arizona
Chest Lid Chain

Rather than just a stop chain,
I think any chest lid should
be equipped with a child
safety support that prevents
the lid from dropping.
[Eclectic Blanket Chest,
August 2007]. Toddlers can be
hurt by a dropping lid even
to the point of strangling if
their neck and throat gets
caught between the lid and
the chest body.
John M. Eberhardy
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Grimy Coot Challenges Cone

While I can appreciate the
craftsmanship in the ConeShaped Chest (August
2007), I cannot help but
think of it as a woeful waste
of wood and work. How
about just rolling a log into
the lathe, turning it to the
desired taper, and then
excavating pockets for the
drawers? Regardless of
186.017
9/19/07
12:38 PM
Page 17
Woodworking artist Jason Howards Cone-Shaped

Chest ... takes up about the same space as a
human does. The artist says, Ive always been
interested in how people interact with things.
pivot to tilt mean?

Does pivot mean
the same as revolve?
Does the chest
really tilt away from
vertical? To what
does on every face
refer? (A cylinder has
only one face (plus top
and bottom.)
The article has two
editors. Perhaps each
thought the other did the
editing? Or maybe every
other line of this
paragraph was lost in
printing? Or could it be
that the chest is truly a
widowmaker; i.e., as
unstable as it appears? Am
how its built, what keeps

the chest from blowing over
in a light breeze? The only
hint at this key design
element is apparently buried
in this, perhaps the most
bewildering sentence ever to
grace your pages:
With a 1"-diameter stainless
steel post in the center of the chest,
it pivots on a tie-rod end to tilt at
a 5 angle on every face, except
the one facing the observer, which
appears vertical.
So, does the post extend

the full height? How does the
post connect to the chest?
Does the post insert into
a hole in the floor? Whats
a tie-rod end? What does
I the only confused

grimy coot? So many
questions from one
sentence ...
Linton A. Brown
Red Bluff, California
WJ Responds: Yes,
pivot means revolve,
and the cone tilts 5
on the center post, so
one aspect is always
at 90 to the floor.
The post is inserted
into a block at the
bottom. Beyond that:
its an art piece. We
thought it was cool.
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Woodworkers Journal December 2007
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Page 18
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Page 20
Readers Signature Tricks

A message
for future
generations.
Secret
Messages
I like to leave a
secret message
on every piece of
furniture I build. I find
a place usually a back
panel or under a tabletop to leave
my note, using a woodburning tool. I
include the date and current weather,
a couple of snippets of world news,
where the piece was built and, of
course, my name. My only regret in
leaving the surprise is that Im not
around to see the look on the owners
face when they find it.
Ken Wallace
Fairbanks, Alaska
Double-duty Carpenters Square

When I need to crosscut several
workpieces to an exact length on
the table saw, I just reach for my
handy carpenters square to set up
the cuts. It is quick and easy to
do, and is a perfect execution of
the old woodworkers bromide,
measure twice, cut once!
First, I rest it against the blade
body (not the teeth) and my miter
saw fence to check for squareness.
Then, I shift the square so it touches
an infeed and outfeed tooth. That
way, I can use the squares scale as
a reference to position and lock my
stop block for the cutting length I
want. Presto! One tool tackles two
setup tasks.
Ray Johnson
Blue Ridge, Georgia
20
Shelf-pin Table Clips

Heres a quick and easy way to
mount small tabletops to an
apron base. I use several
metal shelf pins with
a stud on one end and
a flat support on the
other end. To install
these clips, drill a
1/4"-diameter hole for
the stud near the top
edge of the apron so the flat
lip will rest against the tabletop.
I position two or three clips along
the aprons that follow the long
grain of the tabletop and one on
each of the other two aprons, centered in the middle. Leave the longgrain clips about 1/8" shy of seating
all the way in their holes to allow
for wood movement. Fasten the clips
to the underside of the tabletop
with screws.
Dick Pettigrew
Vancouver, Washington
Nuking Glue to Break Bonds

Recently, while working on an intarsia
project, I glued some pieces together
and later realized that I made an outof-sequence mistake. I was using
Titebond glue. Rather than start
over and recut pieces, I placed the
glued piece in the microwave and
heated it for 30 seconds until it was
very warm to the touch. This
softened the glue to the point of
being tacky. With a thin piece of
plastic, I was able to pry the pieces
apart easily. After a little cleanup
sanding, the parts were ready for
reuse. Since then, Ive tried this
technique on both domestic and
A quick and easy

way to measure
twice before you
cut once.
Check for miter gauge squareness with

the square held against the blade body.
Then rest the square against the teeth

so you can use it as a scale reference.
186.021
9/19/07
12:59 PM
Page 21
WINNER!
exotic hardwoods with

good results. Note: You
may need to adjust the
initial heating period to suit your
microwave. If the glue doesnt soften
after 30 seconds, reheat in 10-second
intervals until it does to avoid burning
your wood.
Amy Nielsen
Maple Valley, Washington
A Better Way to Peel Carpet Tape
Separating the backing paper from
double-sided tape can be hard to
do, especially for those of us whose
dexterity may have diminished over
Form a lift tab on your

double-sided tape with
a utility knife.
the years, but heres my trick: Just

make a slit through the backing
paper at one corner to form a
triangle with a sharp utility knife.
Now, slip your knife blade under
the slit and lift the paper up far
enough so you can grab it with your
fingers. Its simple.
Richard Koury
San Jose, California
In addition
to our
standard
payment
(below) Ray
Johnson of Blue
Ridge, Georgia, will also receive a PorterCable 343VSK Palm-Grip Orbit Sander
for being selected as the Pick of the Tricks
winner. We pay from $100 to $200 for all
tricks used. To join in the fun, send us your
original, unpublished trick. Please include
a photo or drawing if necessary. Submit
your Tricks of the Trade to Woodworkers
Journal, Dept. T/T, P.O. Box 261, Medina,
MN 55340. Or send us an e-mail:
tricks@woodworkersjournal.com
FOR THE
TOUGHEST
JOBS ON
PLANET
EARTH.
TM
From building, to creating,

to repairing and more.
1-800-966-3458 GORILLAGLUE.COM
2007 The Gorilla Glue Company. G2HD

GorillaGlue_WoodJournal.indd 1
8/17/07 3:12:01 PM
21
186.022
9/12/07
2:31 PM
Page 22
Router Grab-Its and Rabbets

THIS ISSUES EXPERTS
veer off course, away from

the fence. It will feel
grabby and unpredictable
right away. Some
woodworkers use these
sorts of climb cuts to
shear off the last bit of
burn or gnarly grain from
a cut, but climb cutting is
only safe to do on very
light, cleanup passes.
Chris Marshall
How do you keep

a router from
grabbing and cutting
out of line when feeding
it along only one guide,
such as the router fence
(see photo, right) shown
on page 53 in the June
2007 issue of the
Woodworkers Journal ?
Percy Werner
Tyler, Texas
Rob Johnstone is
the editor in chief of
Woodworkers Journal.
Chris Marshall is field editor of
Woodworkers Journal and
author of several woodworking
technique books.
Half the battle of using

a router effectively and
safely is knowing which
direction to feed it into a cut.
To figure this out, you first
need to be clear about which
direction the bit is spinning
then feed the router the
opposite way. This is true for
both handheld and router
table operations. Heavy cuts
should always be made
against the bits rotation. In
the case of your example
Contact us by writing
to Q&A, Woodworkers
Journal, 4365 Willow Drive,
Medina, MN 55340, by faxing
us at (763) 478-8396
or by e-mailing us at:
QandA@woodworkersjournal.com
Please include your home
address, phone number and
e-mail address (if you have
one) with your question.
holding a router over a

workpiece and feeding the
base against a clamped fence
the bit spins clockwise
(imagine looking down
through the router with X-ray
vision). So, in order to feed
against the bits rotation,
start the cut on the left edge
of the workpiece and feed to
the right. Youll know youve
got it nailed if you feel a
constant, controllable
resistance as you push the
router along. On the other
hand, if you start from the
right edge and feed left, the
bits clockwise spin will allow
it to pull through the cut and
Im having trouble
routing rabbets with a
straight bit. I have the router
mounted to a table, and the
cutting depth starts out OK,
but by the end of the cut the
rabbet tends to get shallower
by as much as 1/8". Ive
checked carefully to see that
both the wood and table are
flat, but still my rabbet cuts
are getting shallower
towards the end. Why is
this happening?
Chuck Leger
Lancaster, California
continues on page 24 ...
Bit Rotation
Five Router
Cutting Tips
Straightedge
Hold your outboard
hand approximately
15 forward of the
center plane. Drive
the router forward
with this hand.
Take router bit rotation into

account with every cut you make.
Use eye and ear protection
whenever you operate a router.
Choose the proper speed setting
for the router bit youre using.
Listen to your router; slow
down the feed rate if the motor
starts to labor.
Several shallow passes often
make a better cut than one
deep pass.
22
Use your inboard

hand to hold the
router firmly against
the fence and push
the router forward at
the same time.
Routing
Direction
186.023 Steel City Ad:ad page full
9/27/07
2:52 PM
Page 23
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186.024
9/20/07
11:22 AM
Page 24
Chuck, since youre

sure that the router, bit
and fence are all secure in
your setup and the wood is
properly flat, I can think of
a couple of possible reasons
for this problem. One option

is that waste sawdust from
the cut is building up under
your workpiece. As you cut,
more sawdust is being
created and captured under
A recall is in effect involving 14.4-volt and 18volt 2.4 Ah NiCd Milwaukee Power Plus,
Chicago Pneumatic and Extractor battery
packs manufactured between July 1999 and
February 2004 and sold both with tool kits and
as individual battery packs. If a vent on the
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use, the battery can explode and pose a laceration hazard. For more information, visit
www.milwaukeetool.com or call 800-729-3878.
the stock so the change in

depth is gradual. You need to
make accommodation for
that sawdust to be extracted
or cleared in such a way that
you eliminate this problem.
Another possibility is that
you are gradually tipping the
back end of the board up off
the router table near the end
of the cut. Its easy for this to
happen, especially on long
boards, if you dont hold the
workpiece down with a
featherboard and or an
outboard support device of
some kind. Either way, the
good news is that since the
cut is too shallow, a second
(or third) pass will likely
cure all.
Rob Johnstone
WINNER! For simply

sending in his question
on router depth cuts,
Chuck Leger of
Lancaster, California
wins a Steel City
Single Speed Air
Cleaner (65100). Each
issue we toss new
questions into a hat
and draw a winner.
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24
186.025 Fein Ad:ad page full
9/27/07
2:53 PM
Page 25
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SBOHF PG BDDFTTPSJFT BSF BWBJMBCMF
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GPS TNPPUI SVOOJOH
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DJBM TUBSSJOH +PEJ .BSLT BOE 1BU
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186.026
9/12/07
2:30 PM
Page 26
65-Foot Lathe Built to Create Flagpole
A crawler, moving up the

lathe bed at four feet per
hour, removing about 1/2"
of wood as it traveled.
Its cutter, which looked
very much like a stackable
dado head, was used as
the lathe chisel. The
cutter worked better when
someone stayed ahead of
it with a handheld planer
(top photo), taking off the
high spots.
The 65-foot lathe (level to 1/8" over its entire length) required to turn the top and bottom
masts was made from stuff that one of the workers had lying around his shop.
Tall Mast Turning

Reconstructing a Forts Flagpole
Fort Snelling is an icon of
Woodworkers Journals home state
of Minnesota. Completed in 1825 in
the midst of what was then a vast
wilderness, Fort Snelling now
stands in the middle of a major
metropolitan area.
The Minnesota Historical Society
has done a wonderful job restoring
the fort and making it an amazing
and educational place to visit. The
most recent project has been the
reconstruction of the historic forts
85-foot-tall flagpole.
The project began in 1986 as
Steve Osman, former site manager
at Fort Snelling, corresponded with
National Park Service colleagues.
Research showed that many flagpoles built in the 19th century
shared characteristics with ships
masts. Instead of looking for one
26
monster tree that could be erected

to achieve the height they wanted,
builders made the poles in two
pieces. The poles were stepped
near the center of the assembly,
with the smaller topmast overlapping
the bottom mast. As in a sailing
ship, shroud lines running through
wooden cross spars help stabilize
the upper section.
Robert Claybaugh of Claybaugh
Preservation Architecture designed
the new flagpole for Fort Snelling.
Claybaugh created a pole 85 feet tall
The flag over

historic Fort
Snelling in
Minnesota flies
on a brand-new
85-foot latheturned wooden
flagpole.
that maintained an accurate historical appearance, but incorporated

modern materials (such as a lightning rod) to ensure longevity. But
understanding how the flagpole was
to be built was only the first step.
Making it happen was next.
Although assembling the flagpole
in two sections was simpler than
using one large pole, finding the
two sections proved difficult. The
search began in the woods of
northern Wisconsin, but the
sawyer was unable to find trees
that were large enough and free of
insect damage. In the end, utility
poles were the answer. The poles
were delivered to Fort Snelling in
November 2006. Mark Cutter,
Charlie Nielsen and Dan Gates
were hired to handle the project.
The next step involved turning
the poles to the correct diameters.
You dont just walk into a store and
buy a lathe capable of handling
186.027
9/25/07
10:10 AM
Page 27
4,000-pound Douglas fir utility

poles ... so Dan built one. The
65-foot-long lathe consisted of
I-beams, a hydraulic pump and
motor, a variety of electrical
components and a cutterequipped crawler that
worked its way up the I-beams,
removing material from the
spinning poles. When I asked
Dan where the lathe material
Once complete, the flagpole was hoisted over the top
came from he said, Aw, I just
of the forts walls and threaded into a steel base.
had it lying around. I really
want to see his garage.
The poles, spinning at 10 rpm,
four feet per hour, with the cutter
were turned true and to size. Lots
taking off about 1/2" per pass. It
of material had to be removed to
was a long, slow process. Once
hit the correct diameters. After
shaped, the poles were sealed with
some experimentation, it was found
a white acrylic stain.
that a cutter similar to a stackable
Watching the crane hoist the
dado head worked the best. The
assembled pole over the forts wall
crawler moved up the I-beam at
and thread it into its resting place
was amazing! The pole was set

into a massive steel pipe, which
is in turn anchored into bedrock.
Then, on Memorial Day 2007, a
flag was hoisted up the flagpole
for the first time at an impressive
dedication ceremony.
With an eye toward historical
accuracy and lots of shade tree
mechanic ingenuity, the new
Fort Snelling flagpole was
conceived, created and erected.
Its a beautiful new addition to an
historic old fort.
George Vondriska
MOREONTHEWEB
Visit our home page and click on
this icon to see more photos, plus
video of the flagpole being turned.
27
186.028
9/4/07
11:43 AM
Page 28
WJ sponsored Doug
Ropers award in
Traditional
Woodworking/
Furniture for this
Comb-Back Rocker.
Kathy Wises Jaguar Jungle comprises 2,072 pieces of 20 different types of wood.
Prize Woodworkers
From the Really Big Show
This past summer, Woodworkers
Journal was once again one of the
prize sponsors for the San Diego
Fine Woodworkers Associations
annual Design in Wood competition.
This year, the show attracted 300
entries in 21 classes. For more information on next years show and entry
requirements, visit www.sdfwa.org
or call 858-755-1161, ext. 2478.
Bruce Lewellyns Humpty Dumpty placed

second in the Wood Turning Center work class.
Californian Tom Arbour

took first in Carving
with his Old Man.
Donald Rileys
Noahs Ark, took
first place in Made
for Children. Its
an animated music
box with its own
display case.
Sue Sprays Ultimate Long-Range Fishing Tackle Box

was well prepared for honorable mention in Contemporary
Woodworking Accessories.
28
186.029 Craftsman Ad-.qxp:ad page full
9/27/07
3:47 PM
Page 29
6I A6HI! 6 9G>AA I=6I B6I8=:H NDJG

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20-volt DieHard Lithium-Ion

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No matter what youre looking to accomplish, the Craftsman Pro 20V Lithium-Ion Drill helps you
achieve professional-level results. Balanced and lightweight, the two-speed heavy-duty motor gives
you 500-inch pounds of maximum torque, while Lithium-Ion Smart Chip technology provides longlasting power for superior performance. And the versatile lithium-ion battery platform allows your
tool collection to grow to its full potential. Look for the entire lineup of Craftsman Pro Series power
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186.030
9/12/07
2:45 PM
Page 30
Turned Ornaments
By Betty Scarpino
These fun and easy ornaments

are a great way to introduce
woodturning to the kids in
your life.
30
186.031
9/4/07
11:47 AM
Page 31
Spindle ornaments are quick, easy

and fun to make. They require only
a minimal amount of wood, a few
colorful markers and small eyehooks.
Ornaments are also excellent projects
for teaching youngsters how to turn.
The initial stage of creating spindle ornaments is to turn a cylinder from

a small length of wood, held between centers of your lathe. The author
uses a safety center in her lathe, to avoid the drive spurs.
hile its tempting to take advantage of random scraps

of wood for these ornaments, I find that lighter-colored
woods show up well on the dark backdrop of a green
tree. Additionally, if you are going to color them, light
wood grain takes color better than dark grain.
Soft maple tends to remain a lighter color than hard
maple, so use soft maple if thats available. Dogwood and
holly are excellent, and the turning qualities of these two
types of wood are superb. I like to use dogwood and
holly for ornaments that I leave natural color. Ash and
white oak are light enough as well, and both are suitable
for spindle turning, especially ash.
Use Small-scale Tools
A set of pen-turning tools works great for making
ornaments, and these are available in many
woodworking stores as well as turning supplies catalogs.
A small spindle gouge and skew chisel are the only new
tools required. If you are planning to teach a youngster
how to turn, I strongly suggest buying the small-scale
turning tools. Young hands will have an easier time
controlling the smaller tools, and the results will be
more positive. Make sure their (and your!) tools are
sharp then turning is much safer.
Teaching Children to Turn Ornaments
Each child is different, so consider not only the age of
the child, but also his or her temperament. My youngest
son, Dan, was able to turn when he was five years old,
but only for about 20 minutes. When I offered a class
in making ornaments last year for parent/child teams,
I asked that each child be at least eight years old. One
10-year-old girl stayed for two 40-minute sessions and
would have stayed longer! Use your judgment.
Let your child make his or her own designs. Once
you show them the basics and determine that they
are operating safely, step away and let them learn by
experimenting. Both of you will be much happier with
the experience.
Create your own design by combining coves, beads and shoulders.

Youngsters and beginners should keep the spindle thickness relatively
substantial to avoid breakage.
If your ornament is to be colored

with markers, sand only to 220- or
240-grit, then wipe off the dust with
a small piece of paper towel to help
the ink flow. (Burnished wood does
not readily take ink.)
31
186.032
9/4/07
11:47 AM
Page 32
Experiment with Different Shapes

For the photos shown here, I made a simple spindle
shape and a snowman shape. In the past, Ive made
many other varieties as well. I like to add a captured ring
to some of my ornaments, and you may want to try this
as well. Experiment with what pleases you.
To begin with, dont turn the diameter really thin,
especially when teaching children, as the pressure
applied with the turning tool can easily break the
spindle. Thats not dangerous, just disappointing.
Sanding Suggestions
I sand the spindle with 150-, then 220-grit sandpaper and
finish up with a foam-backed 240-grit pad. If you are
going to leave your spindle the natural color of the wood,
you may want to sand to a finer grit and buff it as you
would a fine pen. If, however, you are going to apply
color, it works best to stop at 240-grit. Paint and markers
dont adhere very well to burnished wood.
The fine sawdust left on the spindle from the sanding
process will clog the markers, so after sanding, take a bit
of paper towel and wipe the spindle down carefully. This
leaves the wood clean enough to accept color.
With the lathe running at a slow
speed (about 300 rpm), apply color
with a marker. If you want to add
a second layer of ink over the top
of a lighter color, be sure to let
the ink dry for a few minutes.
Otherwise, the colors smear.
Getting Started
I use my band saw to cut the spindle blanks, but a table
saw will also work, of course. Cut a variety of lengths,
keeping the lengths somewhere between three and six
inches. The diameter can be the full 3/4" thickness of
a board, but slightly thinner is OK, too. Remember, if the
ornament ends up being too thick, the weight will pull
down the tree branch.
Find the center on each end of the spindle and punch
a small hole for attaching to the lathe. Safety centers are
excellent for use with beginners and for this project in
particular. The wood simply spins if the tool catches. If
you dont have a safety center, use just the point of the
spur-drive center and only a small fraction of the spurs.
Attach the wood to the lathe and turn a cylinder. When
I teach youngsters, I always rough out the cylinder for
them until I determine each childs skill level. Ive found
that every child Ive taught has been quite able to use
a cutting tool properly. Theres no need to first teach the
scraping method.
32
Good Markers for Coloring Wood

For this project, I used mostly Permopaque opaque
pigment markers (Sakura brand) that I purchased from
an art supply store. Other markers also work well, such
as Sharpie brand, which are available in jumbo sets
from large office supply stores and are less expensive.
Buy the ones with medium-size tips. For both brands,
the color is good for years and, once dry, they dont
smudge. Highlighters work OK, although the color
fades over time.
The coloring part of the project definitely attracts
youngsters! Years ago, I was invited to demonstrate at
the Childrens Museum here in Indianapolis. I brought
my mini lathe to turn spinning tops. The kids (young
and old) were fascinated, but when I handed out
markers for onlookers to add color to a top, thats when
the fun really began.
Letting very young children apply the color onto the
wood involves them physically, while at the same time it
is safe. Even though they dont turn the object, theyll
still feel like theyve created something. It may be that
your youngster is only interested in the coloring aspect.
Applying Color
Remove the tool rest and slow your lathe to about 300
rpm if you have variable speed. Otherwise, use the
slowest setting possible. If your lathe is running too fast,
the color wont transfer from the marker to the wood.
186.033
9/4/07
11:47 AM
Page 33
Select a color scheme. I used

red and silver, highlighted with
black lines. For the snowman, I
painted the background white,
then used red and black. Its
important to let the base coat of
white dr y before adding a
second coat; otherwise, the ink
will smear. The teenage girls in
my classes used a color scheme
related to their school colors,
and the ornaments were nice
Tape the ornament to a small board before cutting off the
gifts for teachers.
ends. Then sand the ends smooth with a sanding pad chucked
For the lines on this in a drill press. Use a scratch awl to press a pilot hole in one
snowmans body, I used a end, and screw a small eye hook into the hole. Dont over
smaller-tipped red marker and tighten the delicate eye hook, as it can break off easily.
moved the marker quickly
across each bead, which created a spiral design. I added masking tape. It holds
the piece firmly, yet
the buttons and face details with the lathe stopped.
Coloring can, of course, be added after the spindle doesnt pull color off
comes off the lathe. You can paint these ornaments if the wood.
you wish, but thats not as instantly gratifying.
Chuck a sanding
disc in your drill press
Finishing Steps
and lightly sand the
When the ornament is finished, remove it from the lathe, top of the spindle. I recommend using the oversized
then cut off the ends using your band saw or a small sanding discs available from www.abrasivesASAP.com.
hand saw. I taped the spindle to a piece of wood to hold I use the edge of the paper disc as a flap-sander, which
it stationary while cutting off the ends. Use painters helps keep the top of my ornaments nicely rounded. It
also allows me to see where Im sanding.
After sanding, color the ends where the bare
wood is showing.
Firmly push a small hole in the center of the
top end of the ornament using a scratch awl.
(You could also drill a pilot hole before trimming
off the ends of the spindle.) Make the hole deep
enough to easily accept the shank of a small eye
screw. If the fit is too tight and the wood dense,
the shank might break off when screwing the
eyehook in place. Take care with this step.
Eye screws are available from most hardware
stores. If you want a finer-looking eyehook,
search under findings on the Internet.
Findings are used in jewelry making, and those
types of eyehooks are smaller and more elegant.
These ornaments can be topcoated with a
spray finish. If you decide to spray them, simply
hang them from a piece of string to make the
task easier.
Add a piece of colorful ribbon, and your
ornament is ready for the tree!
Spindle Snowmen
Snowmen are created with the same basic turning and coloring steps;
however, the eyes and buttons are added with the lathe not running.
Betty Scarpino is a professional woodturner

whose other work can be viewed at
www.bettyscarpino.com.
33
186.034
9/24/07
12:10 PM
Page 34
34
186.035
9/24/07
12:10 PM
Page 35
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35
186.036
9/4/07
11:48 AM
Page 36
Time to Cut a Rug

A Ragamuffins Memories
Whats
This?
Robert Ingraham,
Jr. from Mobile,
Alabama sent in
the tool below.
Neither he, nor Van
Horn, Inc. can
identify it. Know
what it is? Send in
your answer for
a chance to
win a prize!
If you have your own

woodworking mystery
tool (or the answer to
this issues entry),
send it to Stumpers,
c/o Woodworkers
Journal, P.O. Box
261, Medina,
Minnesota 55340.
Or send us an e-mail:
stumpers@
woodworkersjournal.com
36
When I received your August

issue, I immediately opened
to the Stumpers page. Upon
examination of the tool, I
was amazed to see there is
one in existence. It was
called a rag stuffer horse in
our house. My grandmother
used to make rag rugs
for extra cash. My job as
a child was to cut the
rags into strips, sew them
together, and run them
through the two lower
wheels and funnel using a
bat to pack them into shuttle
containers which were then
inserted into the loom. I was
just a kid then it was back
in the early 40s so my
memory is a little foggy.
Bob Todero
Port Saint Lucie, Florida
Stuffing Shuttles
The tool belonging to Bob
Bradley of Jefferson City,
Missouri, generally is called
a pony, as Lou Schweizer
of Fallbrook, California, said.
The reason, said Isabella
Smith of Battle Creek, Iowa,
I guess [is] because the
operator sits on the circle
over the two legs. The rest
of the operation requires tin
canisters that look like giant
ammunition casings which
sit upright in a crate like the
Robert Dreher of Greenville, Indiana, has two ponies in his stable: the
previous mystery tool services a rug-weaving loom.
old-time soda pop bottles,

and a small baseball bat-like
thingy to pack the weft into
the canisters.
Jim Gottsch of Pocahontas,
Iowa, remembers his grandmother cutting strips from
old cloths and sewing the
ends together and rolling
them into a ball. Morris
Grabau of Marion, Iowa,
explained, A strip off the
ball of rag strips is threaded
through the eyelet, through
the rollers and into the funnel. As you turned the
large wheel, said Gene
Bednarzyk of Morristown,
Tennessee, the fabric would
feed into the canister. A
ramrod was used to pack
the fabric or yarn into the
canister snugly.
The ponys wheels kept
the warp from tangling and
kept the fabric oriented,
said Ron Emrich of New
Lisbon, Wisconsin.
The filled canisters, said
James Carr of New Windsor,
Maryland, fit into the shuttle

that is sent back and forth
between the strings that are
the warp.
Judy Prescott of Chula
Vista, California, identified
the canisters stuffed by this
pony as those that fit in
the shuttle of a Newcomb
Weavers Delight Loom,
primarily a rug loom.
That loom was manufactured, according to Dale
Thomas of Tulsa, Oklahoma,
from about 1893 to 1930.
He also noted that The
Newcomb Loom Co. of
Omaha, Nebraska, later
moved to Davenport, Iowa.
Our conclusion this time
comes from Lenny Merdan
of Albany, Minnesota, whose
mother-in-law had a rug
loom. My mother-in-law
passed away in 1999, but
would have been tickled to
think that no one knew what
this was.
Joanna Werch Takes
WINNER! Lou Schweizer of

Fallbrook, California, wins a
WorkSharp 2000 Tool Sharpener.
We toss all the Stumpers letters
into a hat to select a winner.
186.037 Stanley Ad:ad page full
9/27/07
3:26 PM
Page 37
186.038
9/17/07
12:14 PM
Page 38
When Hide Glue Ruled

the Workshop
By Ian Kirby
A journey back in time to when

quick-acting, versatile and potentially
foul-smelling hide glue was the only
way to stick furniture parts together.
he subject of this article floated through my
mind one day as I stood in a workshop
having a conversation with a colleague.
Across the shop, one of the workers was preparing
to glue up a piece of work at an assembly table.
Years of teaching, an abiding passion, an inability
not to be involved who knows? but I couldnt
keep my eyes off the glue-up operation.
The worker was using one of the PVA glues.
Having placed various parts of the piece on the
assembly table in no particular order, he collected
a few pipe clamps, a bottle of glue, and right away
began dispensing glue. Then, realizing he had
nothing to spread it with, he made a
quick trip to the scrap bin to find a
piece of waste adequate for the job.
And so the glue-up proceeded.
Although I cant recall a word of my
shop conversation, I clearly
remember thinking how radically
gluing and clamping methods have
changed simply because we have
changed the kind of glue we use.
My purpose here is not to advocate
a return to the use of hide glue,
38
Hide glue is available worldwide from

many manufacturers and suppliers, two
of which are shown here.
186.039
9/17/07
11:57 AM
Page 39
which was called Scotch glue in my day. Rather, it is to give

you a glimpse of what your workshop experience would
have been like had that glue revolution not taken place. Ill
explain how the glue-up scene just described would have
been so different, and Ill explain how making a butt joint
and veneered work owed its methods to the glue.
As well, there may be a touch of envy that todays
woodworker has it too easy when it comes to glue-up
time, especially never having experienced the frustration
to say nothing of the stink of a glue kettle boiled dry.
The Fall and Rise of Hide Glue
Although no longer in general use as a woodworking
glue, it has become a specialty product used by makers
of musical instruments, period furniture makers and
furniture restorers. Early in my woodworking career,
however, it was in everyday use. It came in slab form
called cake glue, large pieces about 1/2" thick in a
heavy jute sack. While it was still conveniently contained
within the sack, you broke the slab into smaller pieces
with a hammer, ready for use in the glue pot. A slightly
more expensive version was called pearl glue. The
transition from cake to pearl was considered a bold development at the time, which is not surprising considering
that the cake form had changed little over the years.
After World War II, the chemistry of wood glues developed rapidly and radically and led to major changes in
the whole of the woodworking industry, both products
and machinery but thats another story.
With the advent of PVA glues, everyone had thrown
away their double-boiler glue kettles, leading industry to
develop cold liquid hide glue in a bottle. It lacked some
of the adhesive qualities of hot glue and, whereas the
dry cake or pearl had an indefinite shelf life, the bottled
version was only good for a year.
Manufacture of Hide Glue
Hide glue is made from the hides of animals slaughtered
for beef. The nearest everyday product you might find in
your kitchen is gelatin. However, the key ingredient of
hide glue is called collagen, which is extracted from
hides in a relatively long and complex process that is
well controlled to yield very predictable results.
Its made in a variety of strengths for different applications other than woodworking, although even here
there are some differences, because stringed instrument makers and piano rebuilders use a stronger hide
glue than is deemed necessary for general woodwork.
In other words, somewhere someone knows all about
the various kinds of hide glue, their gel strength, how
they are best used and what for.
My benchmate from college days sent me this tired glue kettle from
the U.K. Its smaller than any I used and unusual in that the glue pot is
flat-bottomed. Every one that I used had a hemispherical bottom which
deterred users from removing it from its hot water bath. Im sure the
steam vent in the kettle casting was marketed as an advance in glue
kettle technology.
39
186.040
9/7/07
5:56 PM
Page 40
A strong indicator of how well a shop was run was the pride evident in the
appearance and management of the glue station.
Preparing Hide Glue
In this section, I could lapse into nostalgia, because there
was a definite pride and rigor associated with preparing
the glue and keeping the shop supplied at all times.
Indeed, the appearance and management of the glue
station was a strong indicator of how well the entire shop
operated, sort of a by their glue station shall ye know
them appraisal. The glue station comprised a fairly large
surface in a permanent location, covered with a sheet of
metal. It would typically have two or three gas rings and
maybe half a dozen glue kettles, plus the bags of glue and
cleaning buckets. Imagine a restaurant kitchen with pots
and plates left to pile up for a few days convert that
mess to glue kettles, and the importance of glue station
cleanliness becomes obvious.
The glue was made in a glue kettle that consisted of two
cast-iron pots, one fitted inside the other. The outer pot
contained water, which was the means of supplying
controlled heat to the inner pot that held the glue.
Shop practices varied, but clearly it was impractical to
leave the responsibility of making glue to whoever
wanted it when they wanted it. In my shop, you did glue
duty as well as your normal work for a week at a
time.
One of the unsung tasks of glue duty was to keep the
inner pots clean. A full pot at the end of the day could be
reheated, but since each reheating caused a loss of
strength, twice was the max. However, adding more
pearls and water to a used pot was forbidden, because the
glue was then considered contaminated. That meant that
cleaning the glue pots was an ongoing necessity. The
procedure was not complicated: you simply
boiled the submerged pots in a large
bucket of water on the gas ring that
the glue was made on. After
about half an hour,
40
there was a weak solution of glue in the bucket and clean

and very hot pots. Come Friday, you boiled them all out
so that the next glue handler had a clean start to the
week.
Making glue brushes was also part of the duty. They
were made from about 3/8" diameter reed. The end was
softened by soaking in water for a couple of days, then
beat with a hammer to part the fibers and form an effective brush.
Hide glue requires minute-to-minute attention to
ensure that there is always water in the outer pot. Apart
from not having glue available when someone needed it
you just had to keep an eye on workflow for that
the sin that prompted the most scorn was to let a kettle
boil dry. That event was announced by way of your
nostrils, but unfolded so quickly that the smell grew
even worse by the time you reacted. The stench of burnt
glue undoubtedly gave the stuff its bad reputation.
A pot of freshly made hide glue has a unique smell that
evokes an earlier age, like the smell of heated oil and
steam around a steam engine, and brings back fond
memories more forcibly than words or pictures ever
could. However, there is universal agreement that burnt
glue stinks horribly its also worthless.
A Unique Quality
Hot hide glue gels as it cools. Gelling means that it
becomes sticky, a process you might remember from
using postal stamps or brown packing tape. Once the
stamp or tape was wet, you pressed it in place. If you
didnt, it simply dried, and you could make it
sticky again by re-wetting, provided you
hadnt licked or wiped off all the glue.
The glue-up is also reversible. If
you havent reversed the
procedure yourself,
186.041
9/7/07
5:59 PM
Page 41
Why Does Glue Glue?
you have probably seen an old film of someone steaming

open a letter or steaming off a stamp.
These characteristics of gelling and reversal of
sticking by heat and moisture are unique to hide glue,
and they gave rise to a number of woodworking
techniques that we had to alter to accommodate modern
glues that behave differently as they cure or dry.
Rub Joint Recalled
What today is called a butt joint was known as a rub joint.
The name says it all. The joint was made, the same as now,
so that the two edges were in as close contact as we could
get them by hand or machine tools. Hot glue was applied
to completely wet both edges. With one board in the vise,
the second was positioned and rubbed back and forth a few
inches while bearing down on it with as much force as
Testimony to the strength and durability of hide glue: these rub

joints in a chest of drawers made by the author 54 years ago are
still holding fast. The view shows one of the three solid back panels.
ntil the early 20th century, it was commonly

believed that glue worked by being brushed
into the minute surface fissures and pores of the
mating surfaces of wood, forming Velcro-like
connectors as the glue dried and cured. In other
words, some sort of mechanical connection
occurred between glue and wood. It was called
mechanical adhesion.
This belief explains the widespread practice of
using a toothing plane to rough up the substrate
in preparation for veneering. The roughed
surface, so the argument went, provided more
fissures and therefore greater mechanical
adhesion. However, this practice totally contradicts
the preparation of a butt joint, known in the hide
glue era as a rub joint. Here, the surfaces are
made very smooth and in close contact with
a sharp plane before glue is applied.
Its now known that the affect of mechanical
adhesion is in fact minimal. What really occurs
is specific adhesion: glue works because of
molecular forces of attraction between the glue
and the wood and within the glue itself.
In the first place, there must be adhesion
between the glue and the wood. Once
that is the case, the next stage is the glue line:
the minute unbroken layer of glue between the
two pieces must develop cohesive strength.
Cohesion is the attraction by which molecules
of the same material stick together.
Hammer veneering utilizes the gelling property of hide glue. Cover the
substrate by wetting with hot glue. Lay down the veneer, then squeeze
the glue line level and thin by pressing it with the veneer hammer,
which is fitted with a narrow bar of brass. Its a time/heat/pressure
relationship as you continue applying pressure back and forth over the
veneer as the glue goes through its gel-to-solid phase. If you are
unsuccessful, as indicated by the veneer lifting, the glue can be
reactivated with the aid of a wet cloth and heat from an iron.
41
186.042
9/7/07
5:56 PM
Page 42
Breaking down the steps of a rub joint sequence

1
Align the two pieces to be rub-jointed in the

vise and clamp.
Plane both pieces at once, just as you would

for a butt joint.
The rubbing becomes steadily more difficult as the glue cools: align the boards flush side-toside and end-to-end before its too late.
With one board held in the vise, hold the

second to it by hand as though they were
hinged. Spread glue evenly and thinly to wet
both faces.
Hold the top board so you can bear down on it

with your weight while rubbing it a few inches
back and forth to force excess glue out.
42
Within a minute or two, the glue has cooled

sufficiently to allow you to lift the boards out
of the vise.
Place the boards

out of the way while the glue cures overnight.
The heavy-handed glue application on my
practice joint (inset) indicates that it has been
a long time since I made a rub joint!
186.043
9/17/07
12:15 PM
Page 43
possible to squeeze out the glue. As cooling and gelling

took place, rubbing became more difficult, and squeezeout became less. At some point before it was too late, the
top board was accurately positioned side-to-side and endto-end with the bottom board. By the time you returned
the glue pot to the gas ring, the board could be released
from the vise and put on the floor resting upright against
the wall on a support stick. No clamps required.
Ive always thought that this joint, made this way,
underscores the vital importance of wetting both glue
faces: fail-safe gluing depends upon thorough wetting of
the glue faces.
Although the glue was hot, in winter months shops
and wood were often cold. The solution was to stand the
jointed edges on the heating pipes for 10 minutes
before gluing. I never had the courage to dry test the
joint after subjecting it to this treatment, but there
was no question but that the finished piece stuck
together perfectly well.
If you have any doubts about the strength of hot
glue, test results show that it is just as good as
modern glues and is even superior in some
conditions and applications. Testing to destruction will often break off large pieces of the
wood tissue, leaving the glue line intact.
The oldest piece of furniture I have
shows my first serious attempt at rub
joints and demonstrates the strength and
durability of hide glue. Made 54 years
ago, this chest of drawers (see page 41)
shows no sign of joint line failure. I would
say that hide glue has done me proud.
Fulfilling a Musical Cause
Musical instrument makers and repairers use hide glue
because of its reversibility. Its their version of steaming
letters open to conduct their craft. Equally important is
the glues ability to resist creep and glue line failure
despite being under near-constant stress.
Hide Glue Legacy
I began by describing how I paid more attention to a
glue-up I was watching than the conversation I was
having. The big difference between PVA and hide glue is
the limited amount of open time the time between
applying the glue and having to put the parts together
before the glue gelled, making it impossible to join
them. For this reason, you wouldnt think of trying to
glue and clamp a job by yourself. You needed a helper.
You began the process by putting the assembly
together dry with all the clamps and glue blocks in
place. This ensured that everything needed was at hand,
that the shoulder lines closed, and that the piece was
Hide glue's reversibility and

resistance to creep and
glue line failure have
made it a favorite of
stringed instrument
makers for
centuries.
istockphoto.com/PixHook
square and out of winding. Once satisfied, the clamps

were undone and laid out in order with the parts.
Now came the glue-up and the need for a helper.
Unless there were some oddities to explain, the helper
knew his job was to put glue on his assigned parts, be at
the tail end of the clamp that you chose to use, correctly
position it and its clamping block as you closed the
clamp, hold the tail end of the squaring rod and do all
this quickly and efficiently without discussion. The glue
allowed no time for idle talk or confusion.
The brief open time of hide glue inspired the development of a very efficient method of gluing and clamping
that was well-established long before I began
woodworking. Despite the fact that modern glues dont
make the same strict demands of preparedness and
procedure, I follow the same rigorous glue-up practice
today. It ensures an orderly, calm glue-up less prone to
unintended results.
Ian Kirby is a master woodworker and designer and
a frequent contributor to Woodworkers Journal.
43
186.044
9/26/07
10:55 AM
Page 44
Breakdown Steps
First, loosen the bolts that attach the legs to

the apron and fold them down.
44
Next, remove two hinge screws and fold the

short aprons flat against the long aprons.
Now, spin the table around 90, and youre

ready to roll everything together.
186.045
9/26/07
5:02 PM
Page 45
Tambour-Top Folding Table

By Sandor Nagyszalanczy
Attractive enough to be used in your home, but mobile

and tough enough to travel almost anywhere with you,
this multi-use table makes a great gift project.
lip locks into the corner of the apron

skirt, to keep the table from buckling
when the legs are screwed in place.
After rabbeting, taper each leg
blank on the table saw using a jig.
The taper cuts should reduce the leg
bottoms to 5/8" wide. Orient each
leg blank rabbet-side up in the jig,
and dont forget to reverse your jig
for two cuts, so you end up with two
right-hand and two left-hand legs.
Next, mark a 1"-radius quartercircle on the wide end of each leg, at
the edge opposite the rabbeted lip.
Also mark the center point of the
radius, which is used to drill the
legs pivot hole later. Band-saw the
leg tops to shape, and use a 3/8"radius roundover bit in a router table
to soften the long edges and wide
end of the legs. Rout only the legs
non-rabbeted sides.
New York friend of mine, who

was clever but cash-poor,
once moved to a new apartment by transporting her belongings in a taxi cab! The method
worked, but it required her to leave
all her lovely furniture behind. This
sparked my woodworkers brain into
creating a table designed for the
modern nomad: it folds and rolls up
into a compact bundle thats easily
transported even in a taxi.
The trick is a flexible top thats
built like a rolltop desk tambour. Its
canvas backing creates a smooth
and solid surface thats flexible
enough to roll up like a carpet. The
sidebar below shows how the
knockdown process works. This
solid-wood table doesnt look like a
cheap fold-up unit either, so its
attractive enough to use anywhere
around the home ... as a coffee table,
a bedroom side table or a printer
stand in the home office. Its modest
proportions and small rolled-up size
only 71 2" x 41 2" x 24" makes it
practical for taking along on
camping trips and picnics.
With the jointer set to take a 1/8"-deep cut, get

started by rabbeting a 1/4"-wide lip on the edge
of each table leg blank.
Making the Aprons

To make the tables apron skirt, start
by cutting a pair of long and short
aprons (pieces 2 and 3) from 5/8"thick stock. Next, use a 3/4"-wide
dado stack in your table saw to cut a
Grasp the folded apron/legs of the table and

fold them inward, so the top starts rolling up.
Continue rolling the top in from each side

toward the middle.
Youll end up with a compact folded bundle

(use a fabric tie to keep it from unrolling).
A Note About Material Selection

Build the project from a stable, dried
wood with clear, even grain. Ive had
good results with Honduras
mahogany, white oak, alder and
vertical-grain Douglas fir. The
stability of the canvas-backed top
depends on the straightness of the
slats, so avoid woods with fancy
grain that are prone to warping.
Starting with the Legs
Make the tables legs (pieces 1) first,
by cutting four blanks to size. Adjust
your joiner to cut a 1/8"-deep rabbet
and leave a lip 1/4" wide along one
edge of each leg (photo below). This
45
186.046
9/20/07
11:31 AM
Page 46
Shape the Legs and the Aprons on Your Table Saw
Use a simple jig cut from a piece of plywood to

taper each leg on your table saw.
Turn to a shop-made high-rise jig to dado the

hinge sockets in the ends of the aprons.
To keep the assembly screwdriver handy, the

author routs a recess on the inside of an apron
and then drills a small hole for a button
magnet to keep it in place.
46
11 2" wide, 5/8" deep socket

in both ends of each apron.
These sockets will create a
hinge between the apron
members so the table can
fold up. To make these
socket cuts accurately, build
a jig like the one shown
below and attach it to your
miter gauge. Locate the
edge of the jigs fence
exactly 3/4" from the nearedge of the blade.
Cut each socket in two
passes: Set an apron against
the jig fence and mill half of
the socket. Then, set the
other edge against the fence and
complete the socket cut. Dado both
ends of all four aprons. Mark one
edge of each apron as the top
edge, to help orient subsequent
machining operations.
Adding the Screwdriver
A neat feature of this table is a
screwdriver stored in a recess on the
underside of the apron, which is
held in place by a magnet. An offset
screwdriver (available at Sears: item
#00941315000), is inexpensive,
compact and just right for tightening
and loosening the tables screws
when setting or rolling it up. First,
mark the outline of the screwdriver
on the inside face of one of the long
aprons. At one end of the zigzag
outline, add a 1/2"-diameter circle
for a finger recess. At the center of
the outline, drill a hole 7/16" deep
for a 1/2" rare-earth magnet (piece
4). Use a trim router fitted with a
1/4"-diameter straight bit to rout a
5/16"-deep screwdriver recess.
Install the magnet in its pocket with
cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy.
Forming the Hinge Knuckles
Wooden hinge knuckles (pieces 5)
glued into the sockets in the long
aprons will allow the apron skirt to
fold up. The sockets in the short
aprons fit over these knuckles. Cut

the knuckles from hardwood, even if
the rest of the table is made of
softwood. Size them so they fit
tightly in the sockets. Round over
one edge across the width of each
knuckle using a 1/4"-radius
roundover bit. Nows a good time to
also round over one edge of the two
fingers (astride the socket) on
both ends of the short aprons. These
rounded corners provide needed
clearance when the skirt is folded.
Next, glue the knuckles into the
sockets on the long aprons. Use a
bar clamp to seat the knuckles. They
must remain square to the aprons.
Scrape off any glue squeeze-out,
then fit the short aprons onto the
knuckles, to bring the skirt together
for the first time. If the knuckle-tosocket fit is too tight at any corner,
lightly pare the socket with a sharp
chisel. Mark the parts of each
corner joint clearly so you can
assemble it the same way later.
Forming the Leg/Apron Pivot Joints
(See photos, next page.) Set a legs
lip firmly against the end of the
apron, with its end 1/8" below the
aprons top edge. Clamp the
assembly to the drill press table, and
drill a pilot hole through both parts
with a 9/64" bit. After drilling all four
legs and aprons, countersink the
hole on the outer face of each leg for
a 1/4" flathead screw (pieces 6),
then switch to a 17/64" bit and
enlarge the pilot holes through all
four legs.
Next, enlarge the holes in the
aprons for the 1/4" threaded inserts
(pieces 7) that attach the legs. Use a
25/64" pilot-tipped bit, which
centers perfectly in the pilot holes.
To ensure that the inserts are driven
straight and true, follow this simple
method. First, cut off the head of a
2"-long 1/4" bolt, then drive and lock
two nuts (separated by a washer)
together on the threads about 1/2"
186.047
9/20/07
11:31 AM
Page 47
from the end. Slip a 9/16" box

wrench over the bolts unthreaded
end, then chuck that end into an
unplugged drill press. Slide a washer
onto the threaded end of the bolt
and screw on a threaded insert.
Center the pivot hole under the
insert, clamp the apron, and use the
wrench to twist the insert into the
wood while pressing down with the
drill press quill.
Drilling the Apron Hinge Holes
Drill the holes for the hinge screws
that join the aprons with the aprons
temporarily assembled. First, mark
the location of the hinge hole,
centered on the bottom edge of each
short apron finger. Set the parts
top down on the drill press table.
Chuck up a long 5/32" twist drill bit
and center it on the hole mark. Align
and square up the joint parts, clamp
the assembly down and drill the
through hole. Repeat on all four
corners, then countersink each hole
for a 8-32 flathead screw (pieces 9).
Finally, flip each short apron over
and re-drill its top-edge finger (the
5/8"-in.-wide and 1/32"-deep across

the knuckles you redrilled for Tnuts. This shallow recess provides
clearance for the T-nut heads.
Now, youre ready to insert the Tnuts into their holes with a small vise
or clamp. Press them in slowly and
firmly. File any overhanging metal
edges flush. Sand the aprons before
assembling them with screws.
After gluing each hinge knuckle into a socket

on the end of a long apron, use a small try
square to make sure its 90 to the apron.
one thats closest to the canvas) with

a 7/32" bit, to enlarge it for an 8-32 Tnut (pieces 8).
Before driving the T-nuts, joint
1/32" of stock from the top edge of
each short apron piece NOT the
long ones. This enables the short
members to clear the canvas when
theyre pivoted. Next, on a table saw
fitted with a dado blade, trim an area
Cutting the Tambour Slats

The first step in making the tables
unique roll-up tambour top is to
cut your slat stock to 2434" long. Cut
a few more slats than youll need to
make the tops full 18" width, just in
case some of the slats warp. Surface
the stock down to 1/2" thick with a
planer. To minimize warping, flip
each board over between passes,
rather than removing all the excess
from just one side.
Next, square up the edges of the
1/2"-thick boards on the jointer,
then rip the slats to final width. The
top requires 10 slats: two outer slats
3" wide (pieces 10) and eight inner
112"-wide slats (pieces 11). If your
Make Your Drill Press do Double Duty
With the leg set in place at the end of the long

apron member, drill a 9/64" pilot hole through
both parts.
Remove the leg, and re-drill the apron hole

with a 17/64" bit to enlarge it for installing a
threaded insert.
Use a socket wrench on a cut-off 1/4" bolt in

the (unplugged) drill press to drive the 1/4"
threaded insert into the apron hole.
47
186.048
9/20/07
11:32 AM
Page 48
Precision Machining is the Key to the Hinged Apron

boards are wide and youd
like a consistent grain
pattern on your tabletop,
mark each board with a
cabinetmakers triangle
before ripping, so you can
keep the slats in order. If
any slats warp significantly,
dont use them. Even if this
ruins a matched grain
pattern on the top, youll
end up with a tighter, more
stable top.
Drill hinge pin holes through the short aprons
and join the folding apron assembly with 8-32
flathead screws threaded into T-nuts.
Use a dado blade to cut a 1/32" recess in the

T-nut area at both ends of each short apron.
Use a small vise to slowly drive the T-nut home

into its hole in the apron.
48
Jigging the Slats for Glue Up

In preparation for assembling the
tambour top, youll need an alignment and clamping jig. First, cut a
1834" x 2612" base from some scrap
plywood. Then, cut a couple of 114"
x 20" hold-down strips from 3/4"
stock, each with a 1/2"-high, 3/8"wide rabbeted lip on one edge.
The lip secures the ends of the
tambour slats atop the fixture.
Nail or screw a strip at one end of
the board; the other strip will be
clamped on later. Finally, cut two
clamping strips, each 1/2" x 3/4"
x 23".
Set the slats into the jig in order,
sliding one end of each under the
lip of the fixed hold-down strip.
When all the slats are in place,
lightly clamp the loose hold-down
strip. Set the clamping strips
against the long edges of the outer
slats and clamp the top together.
Dont overtighten these three
clamps and light pressure should
be enough. Check for gaps
between the slats. Unclamp the
slats and plane their edges as
necessary to improve the fit.
After any gaps are corrected,
unclamp and flip the strips over in
order so their other sides face up.
Lightly clamp the assembly once
more and recheck for gaps. At this

point, you can judge which side of
the top has tighter-fitting seams.
Orient the better side down in the
jig, and check for final squareness
before clamping the top for the next
step (resist the urge to glue those
slats together!).
Applying the Canvas Backer
Next comes the canvas backing
(piece 12). Cut the canvas slightly
oversize, according to the Material
List, page 49; youll trim it to final
size later. Before gluing, heat up an
ordinar y household iron to
medium-high heat (no steam). Use
a narrow 1/4"-nap foam roller to
apply a thin layer of yellow
carpenters glue to both the canvas
and the slats. After centering the
canvas over the slats, press it down
at one end, then lay it down gradually across the surface. Use the iron
to press out any wrinkles, starting in
the center and working out toward
the edges. Keep the iron moving
dont leave it in a single spot for
very long.
Once the canvas is flat, use the tip
of the iron to heat-set the glue
around the edges. You can now trim
the two long edges of the canvas:
Set the assembled apron on top,
centering it side to side. Clamp
down both long apron members and
cut through the canvas with a razor
knife, using the inner edge of the
apron as a guide. Remove the apron
base and extend the cuts along each
side of the canvas with a knife and
straightedge. Use a chisel or small
putty knife to scrape off the strips of
excess canvas. Leave the top in the
clamping fixture for a few hours, to
allow the glue to set fully.
Once the glue dries, remove the
top from the clamping fixture, and
186.049
9/24/07
12:22 PM
Page 49
10
11
10
12
4
3
2
6
5
6
1
1
Exploded
View
1
9
/4"
/8"
1" R.
MATERIAL LIST
Leg
(Side,Top
and Bottom
Views)
151/2"
Editors Note: This project

is precisely engineered.
Changes to the design will
likely lead to a table that
does not work right. While I
understand our projects are
often improved ... I must
caution that in this case,
you should stay with our
dimensions!
Rob Johnstone
/8"
5
/4"
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
TxWxL
3/4" x 2" x 151 2"
5/8" x 3" x 21"
5/8" x 3" x 141 4"
1/2" Dia.
5/8" x 11 2" x 11 4"
1/4" x 11 4" Flathead
1/4"
8-32
8-32 x 3" Flathead
1/2" x 3" x 24"
1/2" x 11 2" x 24"
15" x 24"
Legs (4)
Long Aprons (2)
Short Aprons (2)
Rare-Earth Magnet (1)
Hinge Knuckles (4)
Leg/Apron Pivot Screws (4)
Threaded Inserts (4)
T-Nuts (4)
Apron Hinge Pivot Screws (4)
Outer Top Slats (2)
Inner Top Slats (8)
Canvas Backing (1)
/8"
2"
Long Apron (Top and Side Views)
Tambour Top Assembly
(Top and End Views)

3
10
3"
11/2"
3
11
/4"
/8"
3"
/4"
21"
11/2"
Knuckle
Short Apron (Top and Side Views)
(Top and Side Views)

3
/4"
Slight recess
11/2"
10
24"
3"
/4"
141/4"
/8"
3"
5
/8"
11/2"
11/4"
49
186.050
9/25/07
10:17 AM
Page 50
8 Easy Steps to a Tambour Tabletop

All it takes is 10 slats of wood, a piece of canvas and a little glue to make the
folding tables ingenious tambour top. First, cut the tops 10 slats to size (see
Drawing, page 49). After building the tambour clamping jig and trimming the
slats for a tight fit, youre ready to make the top and mount the apron assembly:
Set all the slats into the jig in the correct

order, clamp on the end hold-down strip, and
clamp the slats lightly together.
Carefully set the canvas onto the slats at one

end, then lay it down gradually, to avoid
trapping any air bubbles.
Center the apron assembly on the tabletop in

the jig and score through the canvas along
the inside of the long aprons.
Take the top out of the jig and trim both

edges on the table saw, first using the miter
gauge, then the rip fence.
50
Cut out the canvas, then brush or roll a thin

coat of yellow glue on the slats and one side
of the canvas.
Press the canvas in place using a household

iron, set to medium-high heat. Keep the iron
moving as you work.
Scrape and pull off the excess canvas along the

long edges of the top. Trim the canvass other
edges after trimming the top to final length.
With the apron assembled, glue and clamp the

long aprons to the underside of the completed
tambour top.
youre ready to trim its ends on the

table saw. If necessary, square up
one end using a miter gauge or
crosscut sled to guide the cut. Then,
rip the top to its final 24" length. Use
the straightedge and razor knife to
trim the canvas back about 1/8" to
1/4" from the ends of the slats. If the
canvas unravels a bit, smear the
edge with a dab of yellow glue to
seal in the fibers.
Attaching the Apron to the Top
Youre finally ready to attach the
apron to the top. With the aprons
assembled, glue only the two long
aprons to the outermost slats. Use
the cut edges of the canvas to
position the assembled apron side to
side; center it lengthwise on the top.
Apply glue to the top-facing edges of
the long aprons before clamping the
aprons down.
When the glue dries, scrape off
any squeeze-out. Now, flip the
assembly over, secure it to the
benchtop, and belt-sand the top until
its flat and smooth. For quickest
results, hold the belt sander at about
a 30 angle relative to the grain until
the top is flat and even. Then, sand
with the grain until all the crossgrain scratches are gone. Do a little
final sanding, and youre ready to
finish the wood: I recommend
applying a wipe-on polyurethane,
which is easy to control to keep the
canvas clean.
Have Table, Can Travel
Once the finish dries, screw the legs
on, and youre ready to put your new
table to use. Or, roll it up and store it
where you can grab it quickly, the
next time you need a handy little
knockdown table.
Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a furniture
designer/craftsman, photographer
and regular contributor to
Woodworkers Journal. His books
are available at: www.rockler.com
186.051
9/20/07
11:26 AM
Page 51
Look behind the

centerspread for
details on these
slick router tricks.
Here are five great router tricks to help you get the most from
this shop stalwart. These ideas from the Woodworkers Journal
staff some old, some new will soon have you working
smarter, faster and more accurately.
Sponsored by
51 51
186.052_057 PC Gate Ad 7.25:gate ad spread PB 7.25
9/27/07
3:26 PM
Page 52
186.052_057 PC Gate Ad 7.25:gate ad spread PB 7.25
9/27/07
3:27 PM
Page 57
PRECISION
IS IN THE DETAILS.
F ine wo o dwor king is all ab ou t pr e cision. N o one knows that b e t ter than
P O R T E R- C A BL E. For over one hundr ed y ear s wo odwor ker s have depended
on our r evolu tionar y de signs, pr e cision engine er ing and unsur pas s e d
cus tomer s er vic e. E ach o f our pr o fe s sional-grade wo o dwor king to ols is
engine er e d e xclusivel y for wo o dwor ker s, which is why we me ticulousl y
me asur e 102 cr i tical dimensions on our 89 0 s er ie s r ou ter. S o che ck ou t
del tap or ter cable.c om. B e caus e when pr e cision is at s take, we dont jus t
pay at tention to the de tails. We obs e s s over them.
The
Measure Of Precision
186.053
9/26/07
2:38 PM
Page 53
Powering Up Your Rou

By the Woodworkers Journal Staff
Most of us cant even think about starting a woodworkin

project without pulling out our router. Here are some old
tips and new tricks from our resident woodworkers to he
you improve your efficiency with this versatile machine.
Remember, a router is only as useful as its operator is
creative. In the same way, it only cuts as accurately as th
person (and jigs) helping to guide it.
Smooth Edges, Fast and Easy

Sometimes, the difference between a project that looks nicely completed and one
that looks homemade is a smooth or broken edge on a table leg or top. You
can break an edge with sandpaper, but it is hard to keep the profile consistent.
Art director Jeff Jacobsons shop features a dedicated router table with a 1/8"
roundover bit chucked into the router. His table is nothing more than a piece of
Baltic birch plywood with a router base mounted to it. Two cutouts in the table
make room for clamps so he can mount it to a workbench in seconds. (But
mostly, he says, I just leave it set up and ready to run.) One
quick pass over the bit breaks those sharp edges in a jiffy.
Breaking the edges of a table leg is
quick and easy with Jeff Jacobsons
dedicated clamp-on router table.
IK><BLB
186.053-056 G1 PC Gate PB
9/26/07
1:54 PM
Page 54
Router
rking
old
help
ne.
s
as the
A depth-setting jig, like the one shown above, makes fast work of
accurate cut setups, even if you are using multiple tools.
Circling the Wagons on Rub Collars

When you use a rub collar, it becomes the fence that guides your
router. Rub collars in general are some of the most useful accessories
you can add to your router arsenal, because their usefulness is only
limited by your creativity. There is one catch that can add a level of
frustration to employing rub collars: figuring the offset
relationship between the collar and the router bit. It
can get a bit confusing: if you use a 1/2" router
bit in a 5/8" rub collar, what is the correct
offset? Its just math ... but one way to
avoid doing it each time is to use a
trick that Rick White picked up from
a reader many years ago: keep
your routing templates with the
information written on the surface.
In fact, says Rick, many of the pro
shops I visit have a whole series of
disks of pre-determined radii ready
to go. It saves time and lets you do all
the math and machining at once.
Robs Ready-made Depth Setter

The Journals editor in chief, Rob
Johnstone, likes to keep moving in
the shop. Rather than take the time
to pull out a tape measure (an
awkward and questionable way to
set depth with a handheld router or
a router table), he uses a shop-made
jig instead. Its just a block of wood
with a series of holes carefully
drilled to predetermined depths, he
says. (As shown at left, his includes
commonly used depths for dadoes
or grooves: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and
1/2".) The holes are at least 1" in
diameter, bored using a Forstner bit
Contributing editor Rick White cuts round corners

on workpieces using a progressively sized set of
disk templates. He always includes the rub collar
and bit diameter required to cut that exact
radius. (Remember, measure
twice, cut once!)
LBHG BL BG MA> =>M:BEL'
7
3O
L'
186.053-056 G1 PC Gate PB
9/26/07
2:00 PM
Page 55
Six Quick Router

Safety Tips
chucked in a drill press. On the

edges of the block of wood,
additional depth-setting rabbets are
cut again to accommodate
commonly used measurements.
These are used to set up cuts on a
router table. Note that the rabbets
have a predetermined depth and
width. This allows you to set up for
rabbeting using a straight bit. Hold
the block against the fence to set the
width of the rabbet cut. You still
should make a test cut in scrap
before moving to your actual
project, Rob adds. Thats a precaution you will never regret.
your eyes, ears and

1 Protect
lungs with appropriate gear.
unplug your router
2 Always
when changing bits.
your router bits before
3 Inspect
chucking them into your router.
Reduce router speed when
4 using larger-diameter bits.
capture stock between
5 Never
your fence and router bit.
and/or wide cuts are best
made in successive passes.
6 Deep
just mount two bearing

router bits, in a straigh
says Rick. Then, he sim
plunge router by drillin
baseplate as a template
plate is mounted to the
exactly in the center of
prefers a 3/8"-diameter
to this jig is that you ca
stock, so when you pla
couple of inches overly
the waste. Because Ric
where to start and stop
By using 5/8"- and 3/4"-diameter straight bits in

you can achieve a clean, trammel-guided route
Rub collars are a great way to

rout accurate and repeatable shapes.
7 HEN PRECISION IS AT STAKE WE DONT JUST PAY AT TENTION TO THE DETAILS 7E OBSE SS OVER THEM
3O CHECK OUT DELTAPOR TERCABLECOM OR VISIT YOUR LOCAL RETAILER FOR THE LATEST FROM 0/24%2 #!",%
186.056
9/26/07
3:25 PM
Page 56
Rick Whites Super-Easy

Mortising Jig
This jig is simplicity itself, and
for that reason its a must-have
option if you cut a lot of mortises
especially if you prefer floating
tenons as a joinery solution. You
need a plunge router to make it
work correctly. The jig consists of a
1/4"- thick plastic square with a
1/2" hole bored into the center. I
wo bearings, like youd find on the end of many
in a straight line, equal distance from the center hole,
hen, he simply attaches the plastic to the base of a
er by drilling countersunk holes (he uses the router
a template to locate those holes). Once the plastic
nted to the router, the bearings will hold the bit
e center of the stock (see photo at right). Rick says he
8"-diameter bit when using the jig. The only downside
that you cant get too close to the end of a piece of
hen you plan your project, cut the legs (for example) a
ches overly long, plow the mortises and then chop off
ecause Ricks jig is clear plastic, he can easily see
art and stop his mortises.
straight bits in succession,

l-guided router cut.

Rick Whites jig will cut

mortises or plow grooves
exactly in the center of narrow stock.
The Router Bit Two-Step

When using a router on a trammel cut whether its
an oval or circle field editor Chris Marshall says he
always takes the extra time to make the cut with two
router bits. This old cabinetmakers trick usually
makes the difference between
a clean cut or a splintery one,
3/4" straight bit
Chris says. Start your first cut
with a 5/8"-diameter straight
bit wrenched into your plunge
router and cut clean through
the stock (in this case, cherry
veneer plywood). Then,
replace it with a 3/4"-diameter
bit and repeat the cut. The
larger bit will provide a clean
5/8" straight bit
final cut, since its removing
much less material than the
first bit.
4HE
-EASURE /F 0RECISION
186.058
9/26/07
5:00 PM
Page 58
ROUTER & ACCESSORIES SHOWCASE

! !
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ROCKLER WOODWORKING &

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Rockler offers a comprehensive selection
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186.059
9/27/07
12:57 PM
Page 59
ROUTER & ACCESSORIES SHOWCASE

SOMMERFELDS TOOLS
FOR WOOD
Sommerfelds Tools for Wood is one of
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Routerbits.com offers a complete selection
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Huge selection of carbide-tipped router
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Amana Tool has teamed up with
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Circle No. 503 to receive info on all showcase companies
186.060
9/4/07
After
11:49 AM
Page 60
186.061
9/4/07
11:50 AM
Page 61
Woodworking for Your Home
Cabinet Shell Game

By Rob Johnstone
How do you turn a gotta-do-it home improvement project from a task into
a treat? Make it into a wanna-do-it woodworking project!
There are many ways to skin a cat, or so I am told,
chose quartersawn red oak to match some nearby

cabinets and added a couple of ornamental details that
matched existing features in my home: keystoneshaped plinths or chevrons. Some details are subtle,
such as those in the center door stiles. I chose to make
the cumulative width of the two center door stiles the
same measurement as the width of each outer door stile.
In this nearly square cabinet, this feature helps the
project look more rectangular, as do the chevrons
(forming a bowtie area for mounting the pulls), placed
low on each stile. I made the two center rails from a
single piece of stock (see photo sequence on next page)
so the grain pattern in the wood flows from one to the
other. The chevron motif is also
repeated in the built-up crown.
And the crown was formed by
slicing a single piece of
superbly figured quartersawn
red oak into strips. I marked
them so as to keep their orientation consistent with the order
in which I ripped them from the
board. When I assembled the
crown I kept that orientation
and, if you look closely once
again the figure flows smoothly
from one strip to the next. By
building it in segments, I was
able to remove horizontal
sections of the crown and, in
turn, build in the center
Before
chevron. None of these details
are visually overwhelming or
even difficult to make, but they
add up to help an ultra-simple
The before shelves, overflowing with family games, were
cabinet look very stylish (if I do
useful but unsightly. I decided that a woodworking project
was the only way to cure this homespun eyesore.
say so myself).
having never actually tried to de-fur a feline. But when it

comes to doing chores around the house, I discovered
long ago that there is one way to change many of those
traditionally tedious tasks from menial to magical I
simply employ my woodworking skills to fix the problem
at hand. A great example of this is the simple cabinet
shell that I recently built for my 1906-vintage house.
With the children leaving home, it was starting to feel
like the right time to downsize. One of the trickier
roadblocks to getting our home ready for market was a
large and unsightly set of shelves in a back room. Our
realtor quickly identified it as something that needed to
be either upgraded or removed.
The spot was really quite handy
for storage, so sheetrocking over
the area seemed a shame, but
the mess on the shelves was
indeed distracting and seemed to
be a magnet that attracted other
strange odds and ends without a
better home. When I hit on the
idea of building a cabinet shell
over the existing shelves, it
struck me as just the right ticket.
Making it Really Worthwhile
When I do this sort of project, one
goal I have is to design and build
it in a way that takes advantage
of my skills. The basic DIY style
of woodworking can certainly
improve a home, but take it up
a notch and you can both
increase market value and leave
behind something of lasting
value. For this simple cabinet I
61
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11:23 AM
Page 62
selection is the easiest single step you can take to move

Stock
any project you build from boring to beautiful.
Rob Johnstone
The center stiles of this cabinets

full-overlay doors add shape and style to an
otherwise uninteresting and utilitarian project.
Starting with a Simple Case

The case of this cabinet could hardly be more straightforward: two sides, a top and bottom, and a shelf (pieces
1 to 3). I formed 1/8"-deep dadoes (see Elevation
drawings at right) to locate and hold the cross members
while I glued and brad-nailed them together. The shelf,
piece 3, was made from red-oak veneered plywood with
a strip of solid oak glued to the front edge ... its 123 4"
depth made this the practical way to move forward.
One comment here about stock selection. Before I
made a single piece of this cabinet, I spent a good long
while sorting through piles of lumber in order to select
great looking quartersawn red oak with pronounced
rays or flecks. Stock selection is the easiest single step
you can take to move a project from boring to beautiful.
In this case, the time invested paid big dividends.
With the aid of a template, I marked out the chevron detail for the
center stiles. Note that both stiles are made from one piece of stock.
The kerf in the center of this piece is essential for accurate layout.
Form the groove for the 1/4" plywood door panels in

the stiles before cutting them apart. Then you can
rip the resulting pieces apart. All this machining
can take place on your table saw.
62
Creating Detail-rich Doors

The entire cabinet front is covered by matching fulloverlay doors. Because I was attaching the case of the
cabinet to an existing shelf assembly, a face frame was
not only not required, but would in fact add unneeded
complications. For this reason, I used European style
hinges to mount the doors (see the sidebar on page 64).
The prospect of mounting these hinges either brings
tears of joy or fear to the eyes of woodworkers,
depending on whether they have installed them before.
The lions share of the work building these doors
involves making the center stiles (pieces 4) described
earlier. I started with a select piece of stock that was the
width of both the door stile and chevron detail, plus a
saw kerf. I cut the piece to length and then plowed a
shallow kerf exactly down the center of the piece to aid
in marking out the various
stile details. I made a
hardboard template with
15 angles to mark the
chevrons. With the layout
complete, I plowed grooves
into each edge of the
board (see photo at left) to
accept the door panels.
Then I ripped the stiles
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12:08 PM
Page 63
Crown Molding Assembly
Fitting the project to your home
(End View)
15
11/8"
With any project that is built specifically for your home, exact
measurements must be adjusted for your situation. Use the
techniques taught here and adapt them to fit your project.
21/2"
1
/2"
3
Crown Molding
Assembly
27/8"
/8"
21/2"
/8"
/2" 1/2"
/8"
(Front View)
41/4"
3"
/2"
15
11
Center Door Stiles
/4"
10
(Front and end Views)
9
8
11
55/8"
21/2"
11/4"
Note: Grooves on
outer door stiles and
rails are 1/4" deep, but
on the center stiles
they are 112" deep.
Cut prior to machining
the chevrons.
The cross members are

captured in 1/8" deep
dadoes and rabbets.
The center shelf (piece 3)
was designed to fit into
an existing wall opening.
93/8"
Exploded View
1
/4"
11/2"
The center door stiles

are machined from
one piece of stock.
Stile and Rail

Joinery Detail
MATERIAL LIST Built-On Wall Cabinet
The mortises for the floating tenons were formed using Festools Domino
machine. A few of their dominoes, along with the rails stub tenons,
created an easy-to-assemble corner joint for the doors stiles and rails.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Sides (2)
Top/Bottom (2)
Center Shelf (1)
Center Door Stiles* (2)
Outer Door Stiles (2)
Door Rails (4)
Door Panels (2)
Crown Base Strip (1)
Lower Crown Strip (1)
Upper Crown Strip (1)
Crown Blocks **(11)
TxWxL
3/4" x 5" x 467 8"
3/4" x 5" x 413 4"
3/4" x 123 4" x 413 4"
3/4" x 31 2" x 47
3/4" x 21 2" x 47
3/4" x 21 2" x 183 16"
1/4" x 183 16" x 421 2"
1/2" x 2" x 55"
1/2" x 11 8" x 58"
3/4" x 11 8" x 58"
See Elevation Drawing
* Cut from one piece of stock 3/4" x 61 8" x 47".

** Form these blocks from the appropriate layers of crown
strip stock. See Elevation drawings to determine sizes.
63
186.064
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12:05 PM
Page 64
This crown is built up from stock cut from one piece of

exceptionally beautiful lumber. Although a bit complicated
in concept, it is very easy to build.
apart. I used the hardboard template to set my saw blade

All that remained in constructing the door was to cut
at a 15 angle and cut out the chevrons using a miter the plywood panels (pieces 7) to size, do one final dry fit
gauge outfitted with a backer board. Staying on the table of all the parts and then glue and clamp it all together. I
saw, I ripped close to the chevron layout lines and then set the doors aside while the glue cured and moved on
finished up the tight corner cut on the band saw.
to the crown subassembly.
I followed that step up
by making the rails and
A Crown with Flare
the two remaining outer
This built-up crown substiles (pieces 5 and 6). Im
assembly flares out from
talking basic bread-andthe cabinet at the same 15
butter woodworking here:
that I used when creating
The parts were cut to size, I
the chevron motif. It looks
plowed the grooves to accept
a bit complicated, but is
the door panels, and then
actually really a snap to
raised the stub tenons on the
build. First, I ripped the
rails (using a miter gauge on
slices of stock as I described
the table saw) to fit the
earlier. Each layer of the
panel grooves on the stiles.
crown is built from progresWhile these stub tenons held
sively thicker pieces for a
the door frame in perfect
more dramatic visual effect.
I turned to pocket-hole joinery to secure this cabinet shell to an
alignment, they were too existing set of storage shelves: a simple and effective solution.
After all of the strips were
small to hold the doors
cut, I reset the table saw
together. Thats why I decided to add the domino floating blade at 15 and cut the show face of each strip.
tenons (photo, previous page). With them, the door frame I should mention that I selected the show face of the
machining was complete and the joinery sufficient.
board that had the most dramatic figure to the wood.
Confused by European Hinges?
A drill press is great for drilling

the cup holes for the hinges.
When you drill the pilot holes for
the cup hinge screws, be sure to
use a square to keep everything
properly aligned.
Many woodworkers find European-style hinges to be confusing

and even a little frightening. One reason may be that they dont
look anything like real hinges at all! And while that is true, I
have found them to be not only easy to use, but also forgiving in
64
186.065
9/12/07
1:51 PM
Page 65
especially important with this

Before I put the crown
project because you want the
together, I made the crown
center stiles to fit together
base strip (piece 8). This
tightly and perfectly.
pieces has an 1/8"-deep by
3/8" wide rabbet on its edge
Finishing and Mounting
which creates a reveal
I stained the cabinet to match
(shadow line) under the
my trim and molding and
crown. This line is further
applied three coats of wipe-on
emphasized by the line at the
polyurethane before mounting
top edge of the doors
it. I decided early on that
another subtle but important
pocket-hole joints would be
detail. Once the pieces were
the best way to attach this
cut, I simply mitered the long With the former mess of board games now hidden behind the
shell to the existing shelf unit.
crown strips (pieces 9 and 10) large doors, this shell of a cabinet turned one of our homes
The screws pulled the cabinet
starting with the crown major eyesores into an attractive feature.
carcass tight to the shelves,
base strip around the
perimeter of the cabinet top. I kept the beveled face and I was able to keep the whole assembly square when
of each strip flush to the outside of the crown to create they did (much to my surprise). I then mounted the door
its 15 flare. The chevron details (with their own 15 pulls as a final touch.
Now, when I stroll through that back room, I feel
ends) and the corner blocks (pieces 11) were glued and
pin-nailed in place in a sequential process that went a sense of satisfaction rather than distress and distracquickly. After the glue cured, it was time to do a bit tion. Not bad for a couple of days in the shop.
of sanding and hang the doors. One of the great
advantages of European hinges is the fact that they Rob Johnstone is the editor in chief of Woodworkers
allow a relatively large amount of adjustment. This was Journal print magazine and online eZine.
I recommend a story stick to

mark out the locations for the
mounting plates. Then I use one
of Rocklers Jig-It systems to drill
the holes for the mounting plate.
their nature. Simply stated, their designers have built a superior

amount of adjustability into their function.The first thing you need
to know about these hinges is that the cup part goes in the door
and the mounting plate goes on the cabinet wall. (When I first saw
this hinge system, my brain told me it should be the other way
around.) With full-overlay doors like

these, the easiest way to locate the
hinges is to use a story stick to
transfer exact location to both
door and carcass. Check the directions for your hinges; for the ones I
selected, the cup holes were located 7/8" in from the
edge of the door. Its very important to be sure that
the cup hinge section is mounted squarely in the
door, so I use a square while drilling the screw holes
to keep everything properly aligned. I always reach for
Rocklers Jig-It system to drill the holes for the
mounting plate it makes the task easy as pie. Once
the plate and hinge are mounted, you just clip the two
together, and the door is hung. Not quite right? Not
to worry: you can adjust the position of the door on the cabinet by
screwing the adjustment screws (see hinge packaging). Using those
screws, the door can be moved right and left or up and down (and
in and out to boot!). Not confusing at all!
Rob Johnstone
65
186.066
9/24/07
12:35 PM
Page 66
Create Your Own Router Table Kit

By Chris Marshall
he holiday season is almost upon us,

and that means wish lists are fair
game. Lets start dreaming about cool
router tables right now! If you could
create the perfect system, what components would you include? Weve come up
with three great options that will lighten
your wallet in var ying degrees, all
loaded with goodies to suit most every
need. And even if youre not in the
All-Star
Router Table
market for a tricked out new table, a

few of these add-ons could give your
current tables performance a boost.
All-Star Router Table
This Cadillac system (below) should
please even the most demanding user.
We started with a deluxe Baltic birch
cabinet and bolted on a solid-phenolic
tabletop for flatness and durability. Then
we added Jointechs SmartLift Digital

Router Lift. It provides digital accuracy for
setting bit height with a readout in
fractions or decimals. For even more
precision, you cant do better than
JessEms Mast-R-Fence with integrated
Mite-R-Slide. Both have phenolic facings
and are made for heavy use. A paddle
safety switch and rolling base round out
this super table. Total system cost: $1,770.
JessEm Mast-R-Fence ($245)

and Mite-R-Slide ($330)
The All-Star Table

features dust
collection on both the
router compartment
and the fence for
cleaner machining.
Woodhavens
PTM120
Phenolic Router
Table ($216)
Jointechs SmartLift
Router Lift ($400) provides
digital bit height readings
in fractions or decimals.
Rocklers Foam Bit
Holders ($6.40 each)
keep your bits protected
and neatly stowed.
Rocklers Safety Power

Tool Switch ($30)
mounts on either side.
HTC-2000 Universal
Mobile Base with tipup casters ($82)
66
$1,770
Woodhavens Baltic
birch Deluxe Router
Table Cabinet, with
six drawers and lots
of extra storage
space ($420)
186.067
9/20/07
11:21 AM
Page 67
Mix and match top quality components to create a primo

router table system or customize your current setup.
Mid-sized Dynamo Table
Maybe a cabinet is more base than you
need, but thats no reason to give up
sturdiness or dust control. Our picks for
a mid-sized router table system (below)
start with Rocklers steel legset and
locking casters. The tabletop is a 11 8"-thick
MDF core covered with melamine.
Hartville Tools Vortex Dust Collection
Cabinet hangs beneath it. Its large
enough to accommodate any router lift,

with double doors to muffle noise and a
4" dust port behind. It comes with a
safety On/Off switch that you can
mount anywhere that suits you. Our
mid-sized system is also tailor-made for
extreme accuracy: Freuds SH-5 Premium
Router Fence has micro-adjustability,
and Rocklers Mast-R-Lift features a
flush-mount scale to ensure precise bit
height control. Top it all off with Incras

V27 Miter Gauge, which provides 27
angle detent settings at a reasonable
price, and youre all set for any routing
operation. System cost: $925.
Workaday Hero Router Table
Your routing dreams can come true, no
matter how modest the bottom line, if
you start with a table, fence and router
Micro-adjusters on Freuds
SH-5 Fence ($149) allow the
facings to be fine-tuned on
both sides of the bit.
Mid-Sized
Dynamo
Table
Hang even your
heaviest router from
Rocklers Mast-RLift ($290) precision
router lift.
Woodhavens TM120
Router Table ($160)
The Vortex Dust

Collection Cabinet
($135) from Hartville
Tool has an angled
bottom to direct debris
more effectively into its
4" dust port.
Incras Miter V27 ($65)

provides 27 preset
angle detents.
Heavy-duty Steel
Legset ($88) from
Rockler
Locking casters ($38

for four) from Rockler
allow easy mobility or
solid braking during
routing operations.
$925
An auxiliary power
switch comes with
the Vortex cabinet or
can be purchased
alone for $30.
67
186.068
9/20/07
12:15 PM
Page 68
SOURCES
Eagle America: 800-872-2511
Freud: 800-334-4107
Hartville Tool: 800-345-2396
HTC Products: 800-624-2027

JessEm: 866-272-7492
JoinTech: 800-619-1288
Rockler: 800-279-4441
Woodhaven: 800-344-6657
Woodpeckers (Incra): 800-752-0725
plate from Rockler (below). The

laminate-covered MDF table is outfitted
with a sturdy aluminum-spine fence with
T-track facings. If a dedicated router lift
is a bit beyond your reach, dont despair.
Rocklers aluminum insert plate also
part of the package is pre-drilled to
accept routers with built-in above-thetable bit height adjustment. We think this
is the affordable alternative to buying a
router lift. The tabletop mounts to a nononsense wooden legset, customized

with quality extras: a paddle-style safety
switch, magnetic tool strip for storing
wrenches and a pair of bit holders to
keep your collection of cutters close to
the action. Eagle-Americas full-size miter
gauge and a four-piece accessory kit will
improve both the safety and accuracy of
your work. System cost: $360.
Now, make your list, check it twice,

and plant it where your special Santa
cant miss it. Never know what you
might find under the tree this year!
Workaday Hero
Router Table
Chris Marshall is Woodworkers

Journals field editor.
Rocklers Package 1 Standard Router Plate,

Table and Fence System with Bit Guard ($160)
Rocklers 4-Piece Safety Kit
($27) includes two pushpads,
featherboard and a
magnetic pushstick.
Full-sized Miter
Gauge ($40)
from Eagle
America
Rocklers aluminum insert

plate is factory-drilled to
mount your specific router,
and it allows for throughthe-table bit adjustment,
when applicable.
Rocklers Safety
Power Tool
Switch ($30)
Keep those collet

wrenches handy
with a magnetic tool
holder ($13.30) from
Rockler.
A pair of Router Bit

Holders ($10) from
Rockler keep your
1/4"- or 1/2"-shank
bits orderly and
easy to find.
A pine legset from

Rockler ($75) is
the economical
choice for sturdy
support.
$360
68
186.069
9/25/07
2:27 PM
Page 69
New!
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Order Today! Call Woodworkers Journal at 1-800-610-0883

Or Visit www.woodworkersjournal.com/books
(Please mention code: WA121)
PROBLEM:
How to get a great looking
finish on a tight schedule.
SOLUTION:
Perfection is in your hands.
Here are two quick-drying, easy-on finishes that give
the smooth, silky sheen of a much more labor-intensive process:
Liberon Finishing Oil is Tung Oil with a resin dryer. Each coat dries in
only 5 hours as opposed to the typical 24 hours. Depending on the
number of coats you apply, it provides a sheen ranging from matte to gloss.
Perfect for turnings and salad bowls. Best of all, its safe for toys!
Liberon Easy French Polish is a high-quality, brush-on
shellac that levels out beautifully. Even seasoned
pros will think you did it the traditional way
and will wonder how you managed to apply
and polish 20 coats overnight.
Available at Rockler stores and at Rockler.com

For a FREE catalog, or to order, call 800-279-4441
69
186.070
9/26/07
5:04 PM
Page 70
Router Lifts: Accuracy for a Price

By George Vondriska
70
186.071
9/24/07
3:11 PM
Page 71
Router lifts bring lots of convenience to a router table, but at a fairly steep price.
Cant decide if theyre right for you? Then read on for help in making a decision.
If you already know you want a lift, our author has details on the goods!
OK, Ive got a confession to make.
For lots of years, I wasnt a big
advocate of router lifts. Id spent
decades of my woodworking career
reaching under router tables to
make adjustments. Whats the big
deal? It seemed to work just fine.
Then fate intervened. Scheduled
to teach a seminar on router table
joinery, I arrived at the woodworking
retail store and found they had a
table with a lift set up for me. Hey,
I said. I dont need the whole lift
system. Just a regular old router
and table will be fine. Well, the
table with the lift was the only setup
they had, so I had to use it.
As luck would have it, I was
teaching about using lock miter,
drawer lock and rail and stile bits.
I can tell you there are few bits as
fussy about being at the correct
height as lock miter and drawer
lock bits. Rail and stile joinery is a
close second. About 15 minutes into
the first demo, I was hooked. The
students probably thought I was a
goofball. Hey, look, I can change
bits from above the table. And,
Oh, I need to change the height of
the bit by a gazillionth of an inch.
Watch this! I just couldnt get over
how much the lift simplified my
work on the router table.
So, these days I now preach the
router lift gospel. Heres what I love
about router lifts.
Above-the-Table Bit Changes
Back in the day, when I needed to
swap bits, Id drop the motor out
from below my table, lift it on top
of the table, make the change and
reverse the procedure. With a
router lift, you can spin the crank

until the router collet projects above
the table and do all the work from
on top, as shown in the top photo,
right. No more bending, stooping,
reaching . Its been so long since
Ive peered under my table and
inside the cabinet that Ive almost
forgotten what it looks like.
Super-Easy Bit Height Adjustment
You just cant beat the ease of using
a router lift when it comes to
controlling bit height. After all, this
is what router lifts are all about.
With the crank inserted in the top
plate of the lift, you can easily watch
the change youre affecting on the
cutter (see middle photo).
Additionally, most lifts have some
form of graduation on the crank
mechanism so you can track, in
small parts of an inch, how much
youve changed the height (see
bottom photo). If one full turn of the
crank is a 1/16-in. change, an easyto-manage 1/8 turn affects the bit
by a mere 1/128". Youll really see
the payoff on fussy-to-set bits, but
this is a huge convenience on any
cut, regardless of the bit type.
Bit changes are a snap with a router lift. You

simply crank the lift until you can access the
collet, and make the swap.
Router lifts provide excellent control of bit

height. Adjusting from above makes it easy to
watch the bit while indexing it off of a
workpiece.
Graduated scales
indicate the net
change in router bit
height in fractions of
an inch. This makes it
easy to fine-tune and
perfect the cutter height.
Photos by Mike Krivit
Quik-Link takes you directly to the web

page on which these products appear! No
navigation necessary ... just go to www.woodworkersjournal.com
and click on the Quik-Link icon shown above.
QUIK LINK
71
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9/27/07
12:55 PM
Page 72
HARDWOOD
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A lift with a quick-release,

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72
(Circle No. 114)
Why Avoid a Lift?

Router lifts work so well, the only
thing holding back most
woodworkers I talk to is price. Itll
add at least another $170 to the cost
of your router table setup to include
a lift.
Are you a one-router shop? If so,
the nuisance of getting your router
in and out of a lift, compared to
popping it out of a router base
hanging in your table, could be a
deal breaker. But it doesnt have to
be. More on that later.
The final straw could simply be
whether or not the lift will fit in
your table. The specs on each lift in
this story include the thickness,
width and length of the lift plates.
Youll need to determine which lift
has the best chance of fitting your
table or if youll have to doctor your
tables plate opening to make it fit.
Things You Should Know
Here are some more things to
understand about router lifts before
determining whether or not theyre
right for you.
Which Routers Fit? As you
might expect, not every router
motor is the exact same diameter.
Some router lifts are made for a
single router. The Porter-Cable
7518 is common. Youll need a
reducer collar to alter the lift for
other routers. When buying a lift,
you need to know the model

number of the router youll be using
to make sure theres a reducer
collar to fit it. Add that to the price
of the lift.
One-router Shops: If youre a
one-router shop and need to be able
to readily remove the router from
the lift for handheld work, look for
a lift with a quick release, like the
one in the inset photo above.
Getting router motors in and out of
lifts without this convenience isnt
horribly hard to do, but youll have
to poke around the shop for the
right wrench to make it happen.
Total Travel: Each lift is capable
of a total vertical travel, as shown in
the photos on the next page. This is
the distance from the stop at the top
of the column to the stop at the
bottom. The benefit of a long travel
isnt being able to poke lots of bit
above the table, but instead being
able to bury most of a long bit
below the table. Remember that, to
take full advantage of the travel,
youve got to have enough free
space below the router tabletop to
hang the lift and router motor.
Which Lift is for You? If you
decide that you like what router lifts
offer and want to add one to your
router table, youve got lots to
choose from. But first, heres some
basic buying advice.
186.073
9/24/07
3:12 PM
Page 73
Router lifts with lots of travel allow you to

bury long bits below the table so you can use
just the tip for cutting operations.
Lifts designed for small-diameter

router motors may cost less than
those designed to accept larger
routers. This is a way to save some
dough, but dont shortchange
yourself in the long run. Think
through your future growth as a
woodworker. If you spend more
today on the bigger-capacity lift,
and buy a reducer collar for a
smaller router, youll still have a lift
you can use if you upgrade to a
large router in the future.
If you plan on fitting a lift into a
table not made by the lift
manufacturer, plate levelers and
snuggers will be important. The
levelers allow you to bring the plate
flush to the table if its set too deep.
Snuggers let you remove the
left/right and front/back wiggle if
the hole in the table is slightly
larger than the plate. Some
manufacturers offer templates to
help you cut the correct plate
opening in your table.
And finally ... got a plunge router?
Most lifts are designed for fixedbase machines. In our test, the
Woodpecker Uni-Lift is the one unit
that will take a plunge router.
Many Lift Options
There are plenty of lifts to choose
from. The sampling of lifts listed
here range in price from $170 to
$329, so the first step is checking
the balance in your woodworking
Tool Review continues on page 74 ...
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73
186.074
9/24/07
3:13 PM
Page 74
Bench Dog
JessEm
JoinTech
Model: ProLift
Fits: Porter-Cable 7518; other
models with reducer collars
Plate Size: 23/64" x 814" x 1134"
Travel: 6"
Tool-free Motor Removal? No
Reducer Collars: $25
Street Price: $325
Phone: 800-786-8902
Model: Mast-R-Lift
Plate Sizes: 3/8" x 914" x 1134" or
3/8" x 814" x 1134"
Travel: 334"
Street Price: $250
Phone: 866-272-7492
Model: SmartLift Digital

Plate Size: 3/8" x 914" x 1134"
Travel: 4316"
Street Price: $329
Phone: 800-619-1288
For more info on

the web: use our
QUIK LINK
For more info on

the web: use our
For more info on

the web: use our
QUIK LINK
QUIK LINK
Speed wrench
checkbook. For this test, I

mounted a router in each of these
lifts, and they all did what I asked
them to do. One thing thats
impossible to test in a review like
this is longevity. How will these
various mechanisms, exposed to
dust, debris and the weight and
vibration of a router motor, hold up
over time? I cant answer that
question, but I can tell you that
these units tracked up and down
with the travel square to the table.
They all firmly locked the router
motors in place, and each
maintained the bit height setting
without a problem, even under
heavy cutting loads.
Recommendation: Do Your Research
Its very difficult to choose one
best router lift out of this
assortment. If youve got the
money for it, the SmartLift Digital
is very nice, and it takes all
guesswork out of setting bit
height. The Woodpecker PRL is
beautifully built with good features,
and I love the fast tracking you can
74
Insert ring and

spanner
do on the QuickLift. But Im going

to let my wallet do the talking and
recommend the JessEm Mast-RLift. It accepts large-diameter
router motors and can be reduced
for smaller motors if need be. At
$250, its my choice for
Woodworkers Journals Best Bet.
Benchdog ProLift: This is one
heavy unit, built like a Sherman
tank. Most lifts have either 16 or
32 threads per inch on the height
mechanism. The Benchdog has
eight, so it moves up and down
more quickly than other lifts. Since
one full turn of the crank equals
1/8", you dont have super-fine
height adjustment. Still, 1/8 turn is
still only 1/64". Coupled with the
included speed wrench, you can
really move up and down the travel
quickly.
On the down side, the insert
rings on the plate are held in place
with Phillips head machine screws
(less convenient than what other
lifts offer), and the ProLift has no
leveling screws or snuggers.
Digital readout
JessEm Mast-R-Lift: This is

JessEms top-of-the-line lift. Insert
rings easily thread in and out of the
plate with the included spanner.
The combination of accepting large
motors, available reducers and a
reasonable price makes this lift a
great choice. The only complaint I
have is that the plate levelers are
below the plate, concealed by the
rabbet the lift sits in. As a result,
you have to remove the lift, make
an adjustment and reinstall it to
check your work. JessEm brand
router tables feature access holes
that allow you to get at the levelers
from below. Its worth drilling
similar holes in your table to
simplify this process. The plate
does include snuggers.
JoinTech SmartLift Digital:
Digital stuff is everywhere. Why
not in a router lift? The SmartLift
has a digital readout that tracks the
vertical position of the carriage.
The readout can be zeroed, making
it very easy to dial in precise bit
height changes. The unit will also
186.075
9/26/07
10:12 AM
Page 75
Yankee Screwdriver, page 27
Hand on a Tradition.
JessEm
Model: Rout-R-Lift FX
Fits: Porter-Cable 690 and 890,
Bosch 1617 and 1618, DeWalt
610, 616 and 618
Plate Size: 3/8" x 914" x 1134"
Travel: 318"
Tool-free Motor Removal? Yes
Reducer Collars: N/A
Street Price: $180
Phone: 866-272-7492
For more info on
the web: use our
Find this and many other fine tools in our free 80-page catalog.
Hobbyist or professional, experience the Traditional Woodworker.
w w w.traditionalwoodworker.com 1.800.509.0081
QUIK LINK
shut itself off to conserve battery

life, saving your last setting for up
to five hours. It can be set to read
in inches or millimeters. If youre
not quite ready to jump into the
digital version of this lift, have a
look at JoinTechs SmartLift Pro,
which is a solid unit in its own
right. It has the same lift features
as the SmartLift Digital, but
without the digital display. As on
other lifts, the SmartLift Pro has a
scale that spins with the height
adjustment handle. The SmartLifts
plate has snuggers as well as
levelers that are readily accessed
from below the table.
JessEm Rout-R-Lift FX: This unit
will cost you about $70 less than
JessEms premium unit, but it wont
accept those larger diameter router
motors. Its plenty of lift for the 12amp machines it does accept and, if
you need to be able to remove your
router from the table for handheld
work, youll love the quick-release
cam on this lift. Its easy to use and
firmly locks the router in place.
The plate includes above-the-table
leveling screws, but no snuggers
for taking left/right and front/back
wiggle out of the fit between the
plate and table. This unit is also
sold as a Rockler brand lift.
Check all
that apply:
I have a collection of old
dull drill bits I just cant
throw away.
Id rather spend my money
on new tools than on
buying more drill bits.
I know I should sharpen my
drill bits, but I dont have
time to become a
sharpening expert.
I want to drill clean, precise
holes every time.
Im tired of searching
through all of my used bits
trying to find one sharp
enough to use.
If you checked any of these, youre
ready to sharpen your drill bits with
Drill Doctor, THE Drill Bit Sharpener.
See it in action online at
www.drilldoctor.com
Look for the Drill Doctor at Sears, The Home

Depot, Lowes, Northern Tool, and wherever
you buy your tools.
75
186.076
9/24/07
3:19 PM
Page 76
MOISTURE METER
mini-Ligno E/D
Reliable
Affordable
Convenient
This pin meter can help you avoid frustrating

moisture problems such as shrinking, warping,
failed gluelines, loose joints, etc. Also ideal for
lumber drying, to find out if the wood is finally
dry enough to use.
Rousseau
Call
for new
Brochure
LIGNOMAT USA LTD 800-227-2105

PO Box 30145, Portland, OR 97294
www.lignomat.com
E-Mail: sales@lignomat .com
Model: Router Lift 3000LS

Fits: Many popular routers
Plate Size: 1/4" x 914" x 1134"
Travel: 31 8"
Street Price: $170
Phone: 800-635-3416
For more info on
the web: use our
QUIK LINK
Connect and Clamp with One Strike

Fixo Self Clamping Biscuits
Its as easy as
Inserts and
shoulder pin
Plunge
Glue
Strike Next!
Fast, Easy, and Economical:
Cut groove in both workpieces simultaneously

No clamps, no waiting
Use with any biscuit joiner no tool investment
Available in vertical and horizontal sizes
Visit csaw.com/lamello for application ideas and suggestions.

1-800-A-LAMELLO lamello @ csaw.com
76
Rousseau Router Lift 3000LS:

This lift, which is actually made by
JessEm for Rousseau, is available in
three models: the 3002, 3003 and
3004. Designed for the many 214-HP
(12-amp) routers on the market, it
will accept machines from Bosch,
DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee and
Porter-Cable. Check Rousseaus
web page for the full list of model
numbers. Like JessEms Rout-R-Lift
FX, this lift has a quick-release cam.
Plate levelers are also included, but
they must be installed in your
router table. I found this more
awkward than the lifts that include
levelers in the plate. There are
snuggers on the plate, and a height
crank (not shown here) is included
with the lift.
186.077
9/26/07
10:17 AM
Page 77
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Woodhaven
Model: R1432 EZ Lift
Plate Size: 3/8" x 914" x 1134"
Travel: 31116"
Street Price: $170
Phone: 800-344-6657
For more info on
the web: use our
QUIK LINK

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Craftsmanship with Creativity

Great minds think alike.
Removable
height indicator
Woodhaven 1432 EZ Lift: This

lift has a unique design. For
starters, there are no posts. The
entire unit is phenolic, and the
motor housing slides up and down
in the slots in the vertical mounts.
As on other lifts, a lead screw
moves the motor housing up and
down. Before testing, I was dubious
of its performance, but it actually
works just fine. It also features toolfree motor removal. On the
downside, it takes about 15 minutes
of assembly to get this unit
together, but the instructions are
quite good. Youll need a 9/16"
socket to drive the lead screw
height adjuster no crank handle
is provided. The graduations on the
scale are more coarse than those on
other lifts. There are no plate
levelers or snuggers on this lift.
Just like you, we know thats what it takes

to stay ahead of the pack.
Design with the assurance that Accuride
has a full complement of entertainment
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Entertainment Solutions:
TV Swivels
Media Access Centers - M.A.C.s
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NEW! Quick Lift
Remote-controlled TV lift
Evolving hardware
for todays cabinetmaker.
www.accuride.com
77
186.078
9/26/07
10:14 AM
Page 78
Woodpecker
Woodpecker
Woodpecker
Model: PRL
Fits: Porter-Cable 7518 (RL5625
fits Milwaukee 5625); other
Plate Size: 3/8" x 914" x 1134"
Travel: 41316"
Street Price: $300
Phone: 800-752-0725
Model: Uni-Lift
Fits: Many popular models
Plate Size: 3/8" x 914" x 1134"
Travel: 334"
Street Price: $270
Phone: 800-752-0725
Model: Quick-Lift 420

Fits: Porter-Cable 7518 (Model
414 fits Milwaukee 5625)
Plate Sizes: 3/8" x 914" x 1134", 3/8"
x 814" x 1134" or 1/4" x 9" x 12"
Travel: 438"
Street Price: $250
Phone: 800-752-0725
For more info on

the web: use our
QUIK LINK
For more info on

the web: use our
QUIK LINK
For more info on

the web: use our
QUIK LINK
Two reference scales
Woodpecker PRL: The PRL has

two reference scales on the top
plate. Each of these can be zeroed
separately, which is pretty cool.
This lets you repeat multiple
settings by zeroing each scale at a
different position. Once theyre set,
you just dial the lift back to the
zero points. This lift can be
purchased with either 16 or 32
threads per inch. The plate has
above-the-table plate levelers and
snuggers in the side of the plate.
Woodpecker Uni-Lift: The Uni-Lift
is one of the few lifts that takes a
plunge router. It doesnt capture the
router motor within a cylinder like
other lifts do. Instead, it has a predrilled universal mounting plate that
screws to the base of the router, so
it works with either plunge- or fixedbase routers. On the flip side, this
feature makes the Uni-Lift the
slowest when it comes to getting
your router in and out. If you only
78
Works with
plunge router
have one router, a cylinder-style lift

might be more convenient. Its also
interesting to note that the Uni-Lift
wont bring the routers collet up
high enough to do above-the-table
bit changes and, depending on the
bit youre using, you may need a
collet extension in your router to get
enough bit projection. With the
plunge routers I mounted in this
unit, the face of the collet came
within about one inch of the top of
the plate. This lift can be
purchased with a lead screw
having either 16 or 32 threads per
inch. The plate has above-the-table
plate levelers and snuggers in the
side of the plate.
Woodpecker Quick-Lift 420:
Heres great innovation in router
lifts: the Quick-Lift has two handles.
One works like other router lifts,
raising and lowering the carriage by
spinning a threaded rod. The
second handle is for fast bit height
Fast bit
height change
changes. If you engage the second

handle in the carriage and spin it
1/4 turn, it overrides the threaded
rod. Now, you can easily move the
carriage to any position, then finetune it from there with the standard
crank, which changes the bit height
1/32" per revolution.
The 420A and 414A models accept
the Porter-Cable 7518 and
Milwaukee routers, respectively.
The Quick-Lift 350A (about $200)
fits the Bosch 1617, DeWalt 618 and
Porter-Cable 690 and 890 models.
The 350A offers tool-free motor
removal. The plate has above-thetable levelers and snuggers along
the sides. The Quick-Lift 420 and
424A models cannot be reduced for
small diameter router motors.
George Vondriska is founder of the
Wild Earth Woodworking School
in Hudson, Wisconsin, and a
contributing editor to Woodworkers
Journal.
186.079
9/24/07
12:06 PM
Page 79
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186.080
9/20/07
2:34 PM
Page 80
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For product information at the speed of the web, visit our web site to link to any of our advertisers sites: www.woodworkersjournal.com/adinfo
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186.081
9/24/07
12:05 PM
Page 81
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9/24/07
12:00 PM
Page 82
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9/13/2007 10:09:15 AM
186.083
9/20/07
2:47 PM
Page 83
Triple-Taper Dinette Table

By Chris Marshall
Look behind the

centerspread for
step-by-step
instructions!
Sometimes, all you have is a weekend to get your woodworking

in. Heres an easy project that works with that schedule. You
can start machining on Friday evening and apply your final
coat of finish on Sunday afternoon!
Sponsored by
83 83
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3:33 PM
Page 84
186.084_089 JET Gate Ad 7.25:gate ad spread PB 7.25
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Page 89
186.085
9/20/07
2:10 PM
Page 85
Triple-Taper Dinette Table

By Chris Marshall
This little table proves theres no need to sacrifice simple

construction for new style. Build it with just a few shop machines.
very now and then, its fun to take a traditional design and give it a new twist, just to
see where inspiration leads you. Your
changes dont have to squander the principles of
form and function or make a project tougher to
build. Sometimes, all it takes is adding another
shadow line or changing one components shape
to make your project fresh and new.
Thats what happened for me with this little
dinette table. I wanted my starting point to be a
Shaker-inspired, tapered leg
table. It needed to seat at least
four comfortably and fit into a
cozy eating nook. So, I
stretched the usual rectangular top into a square, clipped
the corners, gave the legs a
45 turn and added
another taper. Four
stopped cove cuts on the legs also introduce new

shadow lines that mirror the beaded aprons, and
help to create the illusion of feet. I like the
results, but more importantly, the table fits our
space and dining needs perfectly.
If you decide to give this dinette table a whirl,
itll require just basic shop machinery to get the
job done: a table saw, planer, jointer and router
table. A weekends worth of building time will
have you in and out of the shop. Maybe this table
will inspire you to take a few of your own design
liberties, too.
Getting Started
Its always good practice to do two rounds of
surfacing to prepare your stock. With the first
round, joint and plane the lumber so you can
choose the best stock for the parts that need it, but
leave the boards a quarter inch or so oversized in
To allow for moisturerelated wood movement,
the author prefers to
surface his lumber in
two stages.
BOTTOMBANNER

0-
"%34 /6%2!,, 6!,
186.085-088 G2 JET Gate PB
9/20/07
2:13 PM
Page 86
Plow spline slots across the ends of each apron blank with a 1/4"wide dado blade tilted to 45. Back up the cuts with a miter gauge.
thickness and width, if possible. Then allow it to rest

in the shop for a week or two to adjust to your humidity
levels. Any tendency to warp will usually happen during
this time. Follow up with a second round of final
surfacing just before youre ready to begin building to
ensure that youll end up with flat, straight stock.
A strip of beaded molding, milled from matching stock, will hide the
bottom end of the spline slot. Glue and nail these strips in place
before mitering the ends of the aprons.
Building the Aprons

Refer to the Drawings (next page), and youll see that
the leg/apron joints on this table are made with
splines. Splines guarantee that the mitered aprons
and legs will stay aligned during glue-up, and they add
substantial mechanical strength to what would otherwise be a weak, cross-grain glue joint.
Start making the aprons by cutting them to length,
but leave the ends square. Mark the ends for the 45
miter cuts youll eventually make to complete them.
Then, tip a 1/4"-wide dado blade to 45 on your table
saw, and set the rip fence to act as an index so your
cuts will intersect the bottom of the mitered layout
lines. Raise the blade to form 1/2"-deep spline slots,

and plow them all with the workpieces backed up
against a miter gauge (see photo at left).
Next, cut two 1/2"-deep, 13 4"-long slots on the inside
face of each apron to receive the wood buttons that
will fasten the tabletop to the base. Make them on the
router table against a fence with a 1/4" straight bit.
Since the spline slots run entirely across the ends of
the aprons, I routed and ripped several long strips of
bead molding from matching stock to hide the
bottoms of the splines. When you cut these strips
free, be sure to preserve the little shadow line created
by your beading bit. That way,
the applied moldings will leave
no trace that theyre actually
separate parts. Fasten the
molding strips to the aprons
with glue and 3/4" pin nails or
small brads. Once the glue
dries, miter-cut the ends of your
aprons carefully with a finetooth crosscut blade to wrap up
these parts.
Making the Legs
Each leg requires two spline
slots cut on the side faces.
Make them before doing any Assemble the legs and
tapering while your stock is still aprons with splines and
flat. Mill the slots on the router glue. The author used
table with a 1/4" straight bit. strap clamps to close all
Mark the bits location on the eight joints at once.
fence with a strip of masking
tape to help you stop the slot lengths at 3916". Locate
the slots 1/2" in from the back face of the legs.
Now youre ready for tapering. Notice in the
Drawings that the legs taper on both the side and
back faces. I carried out this operation entirely on the
jointer, with the infeed table set to a cutting depth of
3/16". The process is no-brainer easy. Just mark your
taper starting points 43 4" down from the tops of the
legs and clamp a stop block to the infeed table so the
blades will meet these layout lines (see photos, next
page). Make each taper pass by butting the leg
bottom against the stop block, lowering the blank
down onto the spinning cutterhead and pushing it
through, as usual. Its necessary to prop or clamp the
guard open far enough to allow these drop cuts to
!,5% ). )43 #,!33
186.087
9/26/07
11:07 AM
Page 87
4"
Corner
Detail
Exploded
View
(Top View)
/4"
Top
5
39/16"
(Side View)
43/4"
6
1
/2"
Leg
(Side Views)
3
1
Corner Detail
(Top View)
Molding
3"
/2"
Button
(Side View)
MATERIAL LIST
Note: Tapers
(2"- 114") and
coves begin
434" from top.
The coves end
3" from bottom.
5
3
27/8"
/8"
(End View)
11/4"
happen, so use extreme caution and keep your fingers

clear. As you start each pass, keep the apron portion
of the leg flat against the fence. Once the cut is
underway, its OK if an adjacent tapered face slides
over against the fence. It wont affect the cut, and
youll get more control for feeding this way.
I used my left hand, planted down on the jointer
table, as a featherboard to keep the workpieces tight
against the fence. I fed the cuts with my right hand
only using a pushstick. Joint the side faces first, then
the back face. About four passes on the sides and
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Aprons (4)
Applied Moldings (4)
Legs (4)
Splines (8)
Corner Blocks (4)
Top (1)
Wood Buttons (8)
T xW x L
7/8" x 31 2" x 363 4"
7/16" x 3/4" x 363 4"
2" x 2" x 29"
1/4" x 31 2" x 1"
11 4" x 31 2" x 55 8"
1" x 48" x 48"
3/4" x 11 4" x 11 2"
eight on the back should reduce the bottoms of the

legs to 11 4" square.
Give the taper cuts a thorough sanding to remove
the milling marks, then ease the long edges with a
router and 1/8" roundover bit. If you like the look of
my coved shadow lines, you can add them on the
router table with a 5/8" roundnose bit set to 1/4"
cutting height. Use index marks on your fence to
indicate the bits position so you can start and stop
these four cuts accurately.
You can shape the legs triple tapers entirely on the jointer. Start
each cut by lowering the leg onto the cutterhead with the bottom
against a clamped stop block (left). Then run the blank through (top).
&).$ 4(% -/34 )../6!4)6% 4//,3 !4
*ET4OOLSCOM7*
186.088
9/26/07
11:13 AM
Page 88
The author used a tall

auxiliary fence and a
clamped guide board
to rip the tabletops
wide underbevels.
saw cuts with a router and flush-trim bit guided

against a straightedge.
Next comes some heavy lifting as you cut the
tops broad underbevels. The process involves
running the tabletop on-edge past your saw blade
and against a really tall auxiliary fence. I made my
add-on fence 14" tall for this task and clamped it
securely to the rip fence. Set the blade tilt to 7
and raise it to create an underbevel 27 8" tall.
Adjust the fence so the blade will leave the table
edges 5/8" thick. Be sure to set up sturdy outfeed
support behind the saw before making these
bevel rips. Have courage theyll work out fine.
Shave off the remaining underbevel waste at the
clipped corners with a block plane, and clean up
your saw cuts with a sharp scraper or belt sander.
Assembling the Base
Following the Material List and Drawings, make
your splines and corner blocks to prepare for
assembly. Be sure the grain direction on your
splines is oriented along the 1" length. Carry out
a complete dry run to check for accurate parts fit,
then bring the legs, aprons and splines together
with a pair of strap clamps and glue. I found strap
clamps much easier to install around the canted
legs, and they provide sufficient clamping force to
close the miter joints properly. Check the table
framework for square, then install each corner
block with glue and screws to stiffen the joints:
four screws in the aprons and two in the legs.
Creating the Tabletop
This is a large, heavy tabletop if you build it from
1"-thick stock as I did. Unless you have unusually
wide stock, the top blank will require many
narrower boards and lots of glue joints. To make
things easier, I glued up three narrower
subassemblies first and let them dry. I left my
lumber about 1/16" fat so I could run the dry
glue-ups through the planer for one last cleanup
pass. This reduced my eight-board top to just two
final wet glue joints a real stress reliever.
Allow the glue to cure completely before
scraping and sanding the panel flat. Now, clip off
the corners with a circular saw outfitted with a
fine-tooth blade, or use a jigsaw. I cleaned up my
Finishing Up
Sand the parts up to 180 grit and apply a durable
finish. I used three coats of satin polyurethane.
Once the finish cures, attach the tabletop to the
base with eight wood buttons and 11 2"
flathead wood screws. Make the
buttons from blocks of
scrap with a 1/2" x
1/2" rabbet cut on one
end, leaving a 1/4"thick tongue. The
buttons will hold the
top securely for many
years to come.
Chris Marshall is
Woodworkers
Journals field editor.
He builds projects and
reviews tools for the
Journal from his shop
in Sunbury, Ohio.
Rabbeted wood buttons,

fitted into slots in
the aprons, secure
the top and allow
for wood
movement.
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3:34 PM
Page 90
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91
186.092
9/4/07
11:52 AM
Page 92
Through Dovetails for Under $100

By Chris Marshall
n my experience, there has often been

a high price to pay for routing dovetails.
Many of the first-generation jigs cost
a fortune, I wasted a lot of test lumber
getting them to work properly, and it
took hours to figure out their booklength manuals. While there is some
good news on the pricing front Leigh,
for instance, has introduced lower priced
units, and Rockler has come out with
a very reasonably priced line
there still remains the challenge
of learning how to use many of
these jigs, especially for longer runs
of dovetails.
The folks at Prazi USA must
have felt my pain, because theyve
developed a simple, affordable jig
that cuts through dovetails with
any spacing you choose. And, get
this: the ChestMateTM owners manual
is just 12 pages long!
Heres how the ChestMate works:
essentially, the jig consists of a metal
clamp that you affix to your workpieces,
one board at a time. It has two base
ChestMates clamp-on design and indexing
system make variable-spaced through
dovetails a simple operation.
Four steps, two notched inserts and one template pattern create
A registration tab on the jigs tail insert fits into a saw-kerf template
you make to set the dovetail spacing. The pin insert, also shown here
lower left, has a matching tab underneath.
92
Cutting the tails involves clamping the jig to the template and
workpiece and routing between the jig bases with a 7 or 14 dovetail
bit. A 5/8" O.D. rub collar in the router limits the cutting path.
186.093
9/17/07
12:13 PM
Page 93
ChestMates unique pin and tail

inserts are the keys that allow you
to set your own through dovetail
spacing with
complete control.
platforms that support the router one fixed and the

other adjustable. A pair of inserts install between the
bases for cutting either the tails or the pins.
This is where the genius of the ChestMates design
comes in. On the bottom of each insert is a registration
tab that fits inside a 1/8"-wide saw kerf. To establish
your pin and tail spacing, you create a template with
a series of saw kerfs that position the pins and tails
wherever you want them. Since the jig clamps to your
work pieces, rather than the usual convention of fitting
the entire board inside the jig body, your pin-and-tail
template can be as long as you like. So, the width of
your joints, as well as the templates pattern, is
completely up to you. Want to make a 4-ft.-long joint?
You can really do it with this jig.
There are a couple of limitations to the ChestMate
worth knowing about. The jig will make joints in either
3/4" or 1/2" material, using a 3/4"- or 1/2"-diameter
dovetail bit. Prazi offers inserts for use with either 7
or 14 dovetail bits. Youll also need a 5/8" O.D. rub
collar and a mid-sized router. The collar follows the
cutting area created between the jig bases and the pin
or tail insert. Although the spacing of the pins and tails
is variable, the shape of the pins is always uniform. You
should also know that ChestMate only cuts through
dovetails, not half-blinds.
Four Steps to Precise Dovetails
There are four steps to routing a complete joint. The
tails come first. With the tail insert installed in the jig,
and the jig registered and clamped to your kerf
template, you rout the first pass, then unclamp and shift
the jig to the next kerf. Rout and repeat. The template
doubles as a backup board. Another scrap fastened to
the clamps in front ensures tearout-free cuts. The
second and third stages of routing form the pins. Here,
you switch to the pin insert and a 5/16" straight bit. The
fail-safe at this point is that you cut a test pin on a scrap
of spare stock the same thickness as the pin board. The
pin insert has a micro-adjust knob for dialing in wider or
narrower pin sizes. Once the test pin fits your tail board,
you can rout the actual workpiece without trepidation.
Cutting the pins involves the same rout and reclamp
process as the tails.
Because the spacing is variable, the fourth and final
step involves cleaning up waste material between the
pins youve made. This time, simply remove the
inserts, clamp the jig in place, and rout away the waste.
A couple of fresh scraps clamped to both faces of the
pin board eliminate tearout.
In the end, provided your test pin fit nicely at that
stage, the joint parts will mesh precisely with no need
for refinement. I had success on my very first try.
For $99.00, the ChestMates flexibility and ease of use
take the headache out of through dovetails at a pennypinching price. I was impressed, and I bet you will be,
too. Learn more about the ChestMate Dovetail Jig by
visiting www.praziusa.com or calling 800-262-0211.
Chris Marshall builds projects and reviews tools as
Woodworkers Journals Field Editor.
through dovetails with any spacing you prefer
Switch to the adjustable pin insert and a straight bit to convert the jig
over for milling the dovetail pins. Using the same kerf template, youll
produce pins with the correct spacing to match the tails.
Complete the pins by routing away the waste material between them.
The jig still serves to limit the cutting area, but this time without either
of the two inserts installed.
93
186.094
9/25/07
10:19 AM
Page 94
Woodworking Tools & Supplies Index November/December 2007

To receive information about the products or services featured in the advertisements in this issue,
fill in the attached postcard, circling the appropriate number(s). Please allow 4 to 6 weeks for delivery.
For product information in the blink of an eye, visit our web site to link to any of our advertisers sites: www.woodworkersjournal.com/adinfo
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101
5
79
111
29
113
25
116
101
91
14
79
59,90
52-57
82
15
11
13
37
www.amazon.com
www.arrowfastener.com
www.bobmarinosbesttools.com
www.craftsman.com
www.epiloglaser.com
www.feinus.com
www.festoolusa.com
www.grexusa.com
www.htcproductsinc.com
www.katools.com
www.mlcswoodworking.com
www.porter-cable.com
www.proxxon.com/us
www.rikontools.com
www.ryobitools.com
www.skiltools.com
www.bostitch.com
ROUTERS & ROUTER ACCESSORIES

HAND TOOLS & TURNING SUPPLIES
General Tools & Instruments
Hartville Tool
Hut Products
Traditional Woodworker
42
46,45
49
106
6,7
59,81
18
75
www.generaltools.com
www.hartvilletool.com
www.hutproducts.com
www.traditionalwoodworker.com
Craftsman Gallery
JessEm Tool Company
Micro Fence
Rousseau Company
Routerbits.com, Inc.
Triton Workshop Systems
20
58
www.chipsfly.com
55,54 58,105 www.jessem.com
72
59
www.microfence.com
92,91 58,79 www.rousseauco.com
94
59
www.routerbits.com
107
107 www.tritonwoodworking.com
HARDWARE & FASTENERS

Accuride International, Inc.
Bainbridge Manufacturing
Rockler
2
11
90
77
103
58
www.accuride.com
www.bainbridgemfg.com
www.rockler.com
SAW MILLS & KILNS

Cooks Saw MFG, L.L.C.
18
81
www.cookssaw.com
STATIONARY & BENCHTOP TOOLS

HARDWOODS & VENEERS
Visit MARKETPLACE on page 80 to find these vendors.
Colonial Saw
16
76
www.csaw.com
Delta Machinery
23
2,3 www.deltamachinery.com
Felder USA
34
77
www.felderusa.com
General International
41
105 www.general.ca
JET Equipment & Tools
57,56 19,84-89 www.jettools.com
Laguna Tools
61
34
www.lagunatools.com
Legacy Woodworking Machinery 64
91
Oneida Air Systems, Inc.
77
103 www.oneida-air.com
PanelPro
96
81
www.panelpro.com
ShopBot Tools
98
18
www.shopbottools.com
Steel City Tool Works
102
23
www.steelcitytoolworks.com
Tech Mark
104
27
www.rojekusa.com
Williams & Hussey Machine Co. 113
76
www.williamsnhussey.com
MISCELLANEOUS
WOODWORKING SUPPLIES
Visit HARDWOOD SHOWCASE on page 72 to find these vendors.
JIGS & FIXTURES

Kreg Tool Company
Leigh Industries, Ltd.
59
24
18
www.kregtool.com
www.leighjigs.com
15
112
103
103
www.cherrytreetoys.com
www.wildwooddesigns.com
KITS & PLANS

Cherry Tree Toys
Wildwood Designs
MARKETPLACE
American Steel Span

Central Boiler
Cook Woods
Eureka Woodworks
Furniture Medic
Heartland America
Jantz Supply
Osborne Wood Products, Inc.
Premier Bathrooms, Inc.
The Vermont Teddybear Co.
Verilux
WristWriter
94
9
17
31
40
51
78
82
105
109
116
95
81
81
17
105
109
58
107
101
81
69
107
www.steelspan.com
www.centralboiler.com
www.cookwoods.com
www.eureka-business.com
www.furnituremedicfranchise.com
www.heartlandamerica.com
www.jantzsupply.com
www.osbornewood.com
www.premier-bathrooms.com
www.pajamagram.com
www.veriluxstore.com
www.wristwriter.com
Adjustable Clamp Co.

Franklin International
Gorilla Glue
Jefferson Tool
Lee Valley Tools, Ltd.
Lignomat
Magswitch Technology
Master Gage
Prazi USA
R & R Clamp
West System Inc.
3
36
43
53
63,62
66
69
71
81
86
111
34
14
21
79
58,82
76
99
79
59
91
18
www.adjustableclamp.com
www.titebond.com
www.gorillaglue.com
www.nailextractor.com
www.leevalley.com
www.lignomat.com
www.magswitch.com.au
www.mastergage.com
www.praziusa.com
www.rrclamp.com
www.westsystem.com
186.095
9/20/07
1:20 PM
Page 95
Web Addresses For Companies In This Issue

ADVERTISER
STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND

CIRCULATION (Required by 39 USC 3685) 1. Publication
Title: Woodworkers Journal. 2. Publication No. 0199-1892.
3. Filing Date: October 1, 2007. 4. Issue Frequency:
bimonthly. 5. No. of issues published annually: six. 6.
Annual Subscription Price: $19.95. 7. Complete mailing
address of the publication office: 4365 Willow Dr., Medina,
MN 55340.
8. Complete mailing address of the
headquarters: 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340. 9. Full
names and mailing address of publisher and editor in chief:
Larry Stoiaken, Publisher; Rob Johnstone, Editor in Chief.
Rockler Press, Inc., 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340.
10. Owner, names and addresses of stockholders: Rockler
Press, Inc.; Ann Rockler Jackson, 4365 Willow Dr., Medina,
MN 55340. 11. Not applicable. 12. Not applicable. 13.
Publication Title: Woodworkers Journal. 14. Issue date for
circulation data below: September/October 2007.
15. Extent and nature of circulation is:
Average no.
copies each
issue during
preceding
12 months
A. Total no. copies
(net press run)
290,989
B. Paid and/or requested circulation
1. Mail subscription
220,254
3. Sales: dealers, carriers,
counter & vendors
19,470
C. Total paid and/or
requested circulation
239,724
D. Free distribution
3. By mail samples, complimentary
and other free
1,800
4. Outside the mail
1,462
E. Total free distribution
3,262
F. Total distribution
242,986
G. Copies not distributed
48,003
H. Total
290,989
I. Percent paid and/
or Requested Circulation
98.7%
Actual no.
of single
issue pub.
nearest to
filing date
295,563
227,952
18,079
246,031
1,965
2,816
4,781
250,812
44,751
295,563
98.1%
16. This statement of ownership will be printed in the

November/December 2007 issue of this publication. I certify
that the statements made by me above are correct and
complete. Larry Stoiaken, Publisher - 09/20/07.
3M
Accuride International, Inc.
Adjustable Clamp Co.
Amana Tool Corp.
Amazon.com
American Steel Span
Apollo Sprayers
Arrow Fastener
Bainbridge Manufacturing
Bob Marinos Festool Store
Central Boiler
Cherry Tree Toys
Colonial Saw
Cook Woods
Cooks Saw MFG, L.L.C.
Craftsman Gallery
Craftsman Tools
Delta Machinery
Drill Doctor
Dynabrade International
Eagle America
Epilog Laser
Eureka Woodworks
Fein Power Tools
Felder USA
Festool
Franklin International
Freud
Fuji Spray Equipment
Furniture Medic
General International
General Tools & Instruments
Gorilla Glue
Grex Power Tools
Hartville Tool
Heartland America
Holbren
HTC Products
Hut Products
Jantz Supply
Jefferson Tool
JessEm Tool Company
JET Equipment & Tools
King Arthurs Tools
Kreg Tool Company
Kubor Machine USA
Laguna Tools
Lee Valley Tools, Ltd.
Legacy Woodworking Machinery
Leigh Industries, Ltd.
Liberon/Sepp Leaf Products
Lignomat
Lumberjack Tools
Magswitch Technology
Master Gage
Micro Fence
MLCS Woodworking
Olson Saw Company
Oneida Air Systems, Inc.
Osborne Wood Products,Inc.
PanelPro
Porter-Cable Corporation
Prazi USA
Premier Bathrooms, Inc.
Pricecutter.com
PROXXON Tools
R & R Clamp
Razor Tools
Rikon Power Tools
Rockler
Rousseau Company
Routerbits.com, Inc.
Ryobi Technologies
ShopBot Tools
Skil Power Tools
Sommerfelds Tools for Wood
Southeast Tool, Inc.
Stanley/Bostitch Tools
Steel City Tool Works
System Three Resins, Inc.
Tech Mark
The Vermont Teddybear Co.
Traditional Woodworker
Triton Workshop Systems
Verilux
West System Inc.
Wildwood Designs
Williams & Hussey Machine Co.
WristWriter
Reader
Service No.
Page
No.
1
2
3
4,5
6
9
7
8
11
13
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77
34
35,59
5
95
82
79
103
111
81
103
76
81
81
58
29
2,3
73,75
35
58,91
113
17
25
77
116
14
9,58
73
105
105
6,7
21
101
59,81
109
59
91
18
58
79
58,105
19,84-89
14
24
79
34
58,82
91
18
69
76
103
99
79
59
59,90
107
103
107
81
52-57
59
101
59,81
82
91
58
15
58
58,79
59
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18
13
59
58
37
23
105
27
81
75
107
69
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103
76
107
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Web Address
www.3m.com
www.accuride.com
www.adjustableclamp.com
www.amanatool.com
www.amazon.com
www.steelspan.com
www.hvlp.com
www.arrowfastener.com
www.bainbridgemfg.com
www.centralboiler.com
www.cherrytreetoys.com
www.csaw.com
www.cookwoods.com
www.cookssaw.com
www.chipsfly.com
www.craftsman.com
www.deltamachinery.com
www.drilldr.com
www.dynabrade.com
www.eagleamerica.com
www.epiloglaser.com
www.eureka-business.com
www.feinus.com
www.felderusa.com
www.festoolusa.com
www.titebond.com
www.freudtools.com
www.fujispray.com
www.general.ca
www.generaltools.com
www.gorillaglue.com
www.grexusa.com
www.hartvilletool.com
www.heartlandamerica.com
www.holbren.com
www.htcproductsinc.com
www.hutproducts.com
www.jantzsupply.com
www.nailextractor.com
www.jessem.com
www.jettools.com
www.katools.com
www.kregtool.com
www.lagunatools.com
www.leevalley.com
www.leighjigs.com
www.rockler.com
www.lignomat.com
www.lumberjacktools.com
www.magswitch.com.au
www.mastergage.com
www.microfence.com
www.mlcswoodworking.com
www.olsonsaw.com
www.oneida-air.com
www.osbornewood.com
www.panelpro.com
www.porter-cable.com
www.praziusa.com
www.premier-bathrooms.com
www.pricecutter.com
www.proxxon.com/us
www.rrclamp.com
www.razorwoodworks.com
www.rikontools.com
www.rockler.com
www.rousseauco.com
www.routerbits.com
www.ryobitools.com
www.shopbottools.com
www.skiltools.com
www.sommerfeldtools.com
www.southeasttool.com
www.bostitch.com
www.steelcitytoolworks.com
www.systemthree.com
www.rojekusa.com
www.pajamagram.com
www.traditionalwoodworker.com
www.tritonwoodworking.com
www.veriluxstore.com
www.westsystem.com
www.wildwooddesigns.com
www.williamsnhussey.com
www.wristwriter.com
95
186.096
9/26/07
5:05 PM
Page 96
Straight Talk on Straight Bits

By Bill Hylton
96
186.097
9/25/07
2:17 PM
Page 97
As the saying goes: Sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees.
But when it comes to the plethora of straight bits were all faced with,
the opposite might well be true! You have a drawer full of seemingly similar straight bits, but do you know the best one to use for the job at hand?
Our author guides you through the thicket of options.
Straight bits have long been my
friends. Ive always seen them as

benign do-ever ything tooling.
I guess Ive taken them for granted.
Secretly, I knew I had a lot of
straight bits, but I guess I just didnt
want to admit that I have an awful
lot of the same bit.
Sure, their diameters are a little
different; their lengths vary. And
Ive got a lot of different colors
you know. But most of em are
the same two-flute, carbide-tipped,
ramrod-straight router bits. Do
I really have the right bits for the
jobs Im doing in the woodshop?
So, Ive ensnared myself in Bills
Big Straight Bit Challenge. Care to
join me? All you have to do is go to
your shop and stride purposefully
through your forest of straight
bits. It encompasses not only
conventional two-flute, carbidetipped straight bits, but also spiral
bits, mortising bits, dado cleanout
bits, planer bits, bottom-cleaning
bits, even pattern bits with their
shank-mounted pilot bearings
and those flush-trim bits.
Sidle around each bit and eye it
carefully from tip to shank. Ask
yourself: What do I use this bit for?
If I were to choose the ideal bit for
that job, would it be this bit? If not,
which one would it be?
If youre like me, you have quite
a stand of bits that dont have a
purpose in your shop. You cant
recall when or why you bought
each one. You cant even recall the
last time you used it. And if you list
your most frequent tasks, you may
find you dont really have the ideal
bits for quite a few of them.
Lets take a look at the varieties of

straight bits that are out there. Then
we can consider some primary jobs
that straight bits perform: grooving
and dadoing, excavating mortises,
forming tenons and so forth, to
see if we can match specific bits
to tasks. Can we identify those
ideal bits?
Conventional Straights
The most common straight bit
the mainstay of both manufacturers catalogs and small-shop woodworkers collections is the twoflute carbide-tipped bit. Typically,
the body is machined from steel
bar, and tungsten carbide slips are
brazed to it. The final operations
truing the shank and flattening and
sharpening the carbide tips are
performed on a diamond-wheel
CNC grinder.
The cutting edges are oriented
parallel to the bit axis, so the cutting action is unabashed smashmouth: with each revolution, the
cutting edges chop across the wood
at more than 40,000 individual
chops per minute. Its crude but
quite effective.
This bit is a generalist. It works
well for every sort of groove-cutting you can imagine. Inexpensive
to buy, it can be resharpened easily
and repeatedly with a diamondwheel grinder.
Two-flute straights are available
in a wide range of sizes. In fact,
some woodworking catalogs list
more than 50. Cutting diameters
range from 1/16" to 2"; even metric
sizes are available. Flute lengths
range from 1/4" to 2".
Having lots of
size options is
swell, of course,
but the extent of
them does create befuddlement. How do
you winnow the
possibilities
down to the sensible, practical,
functional few?
Ahh, but
theres more.
Some bit companies offer variations on the
conventional
straight.
The first Ill
mention is the
single-flute
straight.
Because theres
only one cutting
edge, the gullet
can be enlarged,
which both
increases the
size of the chip
the bit can take
with each revolution and also
improves chip
clearance. The
A two-flute
upshot is that
carbidethe bit can be
tipped bit
fed at a faster rate
than a two-flute bit. The tradeoff
is that with the number of cuts
per revolution halved, the cut quality
is reduced.
Todays Shop continues on page 98 ...
97
186.098
9/26/07
5:06 PM
Page 98
Downshear tends to drive the router and the workpiece

apart ... Bear this effect in mind if you contemplate
making a honkin-big cut.
Bill Hylton
Upshear Bit
Two-flute Carbide-tipped Bit
Downshear Bit
The bit in the center is a commonplace straight
bit, with cutting edges parallel to the bit axis.
Above it is an upshear bit and below it is a
downshear bit.
As a practical matter, there may

be little to gain using such a bit in
a handheld or table-mounted router.
How fast can you move your router
through a cut? Can you move it
faster than you already do?
The shear bit is a variation that
does have practical application in the
small shop. A shear bit has its cutting edges very slightly tilted
typically 3. Just as slightly turning
your hand plane can reduce both
tearing of wood fibers and the effort
of planing, so, too, does tilting the
cutting edges. Shear is typically
available in only a few sizes, but both
upshear and downshear can be had.
An upshear cutting edge slices
upward toward the router and
the wood surface as the bit
rotates. The advantage is that the
upward shear reduces the effort
required to cut. To a very modest
degree, the upward shear also
helps channel chips up out of the
cut. The disadvantage is that the
upward slice tends to lift the wood
fibers at the edge of the cut.
A downshear cutting edge slices
downward toward the bits tip
as the bit rotates. This leaves a
98
clean, generally fuzz-free edge

on the cut, which is especially
beneficial when dadoing
hardwood-veneered sheets
and melamine. Chips tend to
be pushed toward the bottom
of the cut, of course. On a
through cut, they move away
from the router and onto
the floor. (Quite a few profile
cutters have downshear cutting edges.)
Manufacturers generally
warn you that downshear
tends to drive the router and the
workpiece apart, which can be
disconcerting and even dangerous. But the degree of shear and
the scale of the cut govern how
powerful this force is, and using a
3 downshear straight to rout a
1/4"-deep dado in any woodworking
Few conventional straight bits plunge really

well, and some, such as the bit on the left,
are especially bad at it. Plunge-cutting bits
(right), which have an extra carbide cutting
edge across the tip, easily bore holes.
material is unlikely to present a hazard. Nevertheless, bear this effect

in mind if you contemplate making
a honkin-big cut.
One last variation on the conventional straight is the plunge-cutting
straight. Huh? Dont all straight
bits plunge? you ask. Not all; some
you cant even force to plunge.
Try this: Chuck a straight bit in

your drill press and try drilling a
hole. Unless the bit was specifically
designed to plunge-cut, it will bore
a shallow hole easily but quickly
begin resisting your feed pressure.
It may very well begin to smoke.
Turn off the drill press and take a
look at the hole. It will be a flat ring
surrounding a raised center (which
probably is scorched).
If you want a conventional carbidetipped straight that will bore into
wood like a Forstner bit, you can
get it. The end of the steel body is
machined so a separate carbide tip
can be brazed there, then ground
to a point or a knife edge.
Unconventional Straights
The two-flute, carbide-tipped
straight bit is the basis for flushtrimmers, pattern bits, mortising
bits, dado cleanout bits, bottom
cleaners and dado-and-planer bits.
The first two bits are familiar to
most router woodworkers. They
are simply straight bits with pilot
bearings. The bit cuts only material
standing proud of the surface referenced by the pilot.
The other bits tend not to look like
straight bits. The cutting edges typically are very short often 5/8",
but occasionally as short as 1/4".
Mortising bits, which are designed
primarily for cutting shallow hinge
mortises, often have a gullet across
the tip, separating the carbide slips,
thus providing chip clearance where
the more conventional vertical gullets are virtually absent. They often
have downshear cutting edges.
Bits labeled bottom cleaners or
planers are designed to mill a very
smooth face with crisp vertical
edges. Cutting diameters range
from 3/4" up to 11 2".
186.099 Magswitch:ad page full
9/27/07
3:35 PM
Page 99
186.100
9/25/07
2:18 PM
Page 100
Down-spiral Bit
Compression Bit
Up-spiral Bit
Spiral bits are available in two-flute and three-flute configurations. The

three-flute cutter leaves a better finish on hard materials.
Three solid carbide
spiral bits. From top
down, they are downspiral, compression
(or up-and-down), and
up-spiral.
Spiral Bits
Spirals are the second major straight
configuration. All but the newest
woodworkers are familiar with these
bits, whether or not they own one.
They look like drill bits.
Because of their radical geometry,
spiral bits are fashioned entirely of
either high-speed steel (HSS) or

carbide. No ones contrived a way to
twist carbide into a helix and braze
it to a steel bit body. (Theres one
exception that I know of, and Ill get
to that exception shortly.)
HSS spirals are available and quite
inexpensive, but they dont stay
The functional difference between one- and

two-flute bits is obvious. One-flute bits can
have greatly enlarged gullets to improve chip
clearance. Two-flute bits create cleaner cuts.
Not all single-flute bits allow fast feeds. The

bit on the left has a small gullet to
intentionally limit chip size and retard cutting
speed. Its a safety feature.
100
sharp very long. All but a few diehard woodworkers abandoned HSS
for carbide long ago.
The fact that spirals are machined
from solid carbide has both disadvantages and advantages. Lets consider the disadvantages first:
A solid carbide bit is more expensive than steel-bodied, carbide-tipped
tooling. I priced nine different
brands of 1/2" carbide-tipped
straights with 114" cutting flutes and
found they ranged from $9 to $18.
A comparable carbide spiral ranged
in price from $35 up to $70.
A solid carbide bits cutting diameter cant exceed its shank diameter.
This means the largest cutting diameter available for routers is 1/2". You
may see a 3/4"-diameter cutter listed, but its shank will also be 3/4";
its used in CNC routers.
The cutting edges can be ground
to a smaller diameter than the
shank, and often they are. Thus,
you can buy a 5/16" spiral on a 1/2"
shank. But this design limits how
deep you can cut.
The alternative is a bit thats the
same diameter from end to end, like
a drill bit. You then are limited to
sizes for which sleeves are available
to match standard router collet sizes.
A corollary of the diameter issue
is that spiral pattern bits dont exist.
Without a differential between
shank and cutting diameters, you
cant mount a pilot bearing on the
shank. The tip of a spiral can be
machined to accept a bearing, so
spiral flush-trimmers are available.
Resharpening is difficult. Thats
not to say its impossible, but
because the necessary equipment is
expensive, relatively few sharpening
services can do spirals. The sharpTodays Shop continues on page 102 ...
186.101
9/24/07
12:08 PM
Page 101
101
186.102
9/25/07
2:18 PM
Page 102
Regular Spiral Bit

A compression bit has both up-spiral and down-spiral
flutes. The edges slice up through the underside of the
sheet and down through the top. Even when routing across
the face veneers, the cut is clean and the edges crisp and
splinter-free.
Slow Spiral Bit

"Slow" spirals are available from some
manufacturers. They produce a finer finish
on dense hardwoods and hard plastics. The
regular spiral on the top is an up-spiral, while
the slow spiral is a down-spiral.
ening charge can be twice what

youd pay for a carbide-tipped bit.
All this said, spirals have some
impressive advantages. For one,
a solid carbide spiral can be made
from a superior formulation of
carbide than that used for brazedin-place tips. This carbide can be
ground to as keen an edge as HSS.
On top of that, it is harder and more
heat-resistant than tip grades, so
it stays sharp twice as long.
The helical geometry reduces
stress on the router (and on the edge
itself) because the edge is slicing the
wood rather than chopping it. The
resulting cut finish is superior, too.
Lastly, spiral bits are well-known
for the ability to move chips. You can
buy up-spirals and down-spirals, as
well as compression spirals, which
combine both up-spiral and down-spiral flutes on the bit. The latter bits do
an amazing job of plowing through
plywood or melamine particleboard
without chipping the surface
veneers or coating on either face.
Many woodworkers including
me favor up-spirals for mortising
because they help clear chips for
deep cuts.
Carbide-Tipped Slow Spirals
I mentioned earlier that no one has
contrived a way to twist carbide into
a helix and braze it to a steel bit
body. That is true. However, one
manufacturer, Paso Robles Carbide,
102
has contrived a way to slightly twist

carbide slips. According to Barry
Rundstrom, PRC president, it is a
proprietary process. The upshot is
that Rundstroms company is the
sole source of what Id call carbidetipped slow spirals.
These bits offer some of the
advantages of solid carbide spirals,
plus one extra: cutting diameters
larger than shank diameters. Slow
spirals are available in workhorse
diameters of 5/8", 3/4" and continue on up to 11 8" diameters. They
These bits are the same diameter 3/4"

and almost the same cutting length 1" vs.
11 4" but the slow up-spiral on the right
slices rather than chops, generally yielding a
better finish with less stress on the router.
can be had with either shank- or

tip-mounted bearings.
What they dont have is plungecutting ability. Use them for grooving where you can cut into an edge
or ramp in. Theyre also great for
jointing and template work. But
dont expect to excavate mortises.
Straights to Work
Its axiomatic that the router is the
most versatile woodworking power
tool. It should also be axiomatic
that the straight bit in all its
variations is the most versatile
router bit. With a commonplace
1/2" straight, you can rout grooves
and dadoes, rabbets and box joints;
form tenons and laps, excavate
mortises, cut out templates, follow
templates with guide bushings to
duplicate parts and even joint edges.
But versatile as it may be, that
single, commonplace 1/2" straight
is hardly the ideal cutter for each of
those jobs. Let me pick out a couple
of those operations and explain
what I think characterizes the ideal
bit for each.
Grooves and dadoes: Years
ago, in the first edition of my book
Woodworking with the Router, I
advised always using the shortest
bit that will do the job. Grooves and
dadoes used in cabinetry seldom
are deeper than 3/8". Even less is
completely satisfactory.
So why use a bit with a cuttinglength over 1/2"? Probably because
the most common 3/4"-diameter bit
we have has a 1" cut length.
186.103
9/24/07
12:08 PM
Page 103

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103
186.104
9/25/07
2:19 PM
Page 104
Pat Warner's five-piece straight bit set, made by Paso

Robles Carbide, handles a wide range of grooving,
mortising, rabbeting, surfacing and template-guided cuts.
Straight Talk on
Sharpening
etting to work with dull cutting
tools is NOT what good woodworkers do. I've been fortunate to
meet and work with some very competent woodworkers over the years,
all of whom are skilled at sharpening
their steel cutting tools chisels,
plane irons, scrapers and the like.
Not a one of them hones or sharpens
carbide cutting tools.
Most carbide and carbide-tipped
router bits and this includes spiral
and compression bits can be
resharpened with the right equipment.
Good bits, with adequately thick carbide slips, can usually be resharpened
three to five times.
A skilled, experienced operator can
revive most carbide-tipped bits on
basic diamond-wheeled grinding
equipment.The trend these days, of
course, is to use sophisticated CNC
equipment that requires less of the
operator and promises consistent,
precise results on bit after bit.These
high-tech, costly machines can sharpen
spirals too.
Can you keep your bits sharp if
you hone them on diamond paddles?
Industry tech-heads say no, paddlesellers say yes. I say: Do it if it makes
you happy. But when a bit in my
collection needs sharpening, I send it
to an expert with a CNC diamondwheel grinder.
Lets go a step further. As often as

not, the dado is cut in plywood and
will house another piece of plywood.
So a 3/4" bit is too big for the job. We
need a 23/32" bit, right? And the
three-bit set for plywood we bought
has those bloomin 1"-cut-length bits.
Moreover, we want a clean, chip-free
edge to the dado (which by definition
is crossing the face veneer of the plywood), so we need a downshear bit
to give ourselves the best chance of
getting the cut quality we desire.
So what we really, really need for
the cut is a 23/32" bit with downshear edges of no more than 1/2"
length. But thats not the specs of a
conventional plywood bit.
Scanning Freuds catalog list of
mortising bits, however, reveals
#16-116, a 23/32"-diameter, 3/8"
cut length, downshear bit on a 1/2"
shank. Perfect! (Ill bet Freud isnt

the only manufacturer with this bit.)
Mortising: Im making a door for
my office, and I want to use loosetenon joinery. That means I have to
cut a bunch of 1/2"-wide, 212 "-long, 2"
deep mortises in stiles and rails. Ive
got a good plunge router to drive the
cutter and a mortising jig to hold the
workpieces and guide the router.
What I need is a bit. Which one?
To begin, Ill look at 1/2" bits. I discover that 1/2" bits with 2"-long cutting edges arent all that uncommon.
But in the Amana Tool catalog, I see
that bit with a carbide tip in the center to allow it to really plunge.
Turning the page, I see another similar bit, but with 4 upshear cutting
flutes; maybe thatll help move chips
Shear-Angle Matters
Downshear
A downshear straight bit cuts dadoes with

crisp, fuzz-free shoulders. Select a bit that
helps make the best cut for the task at hand.
104
No-shear
A conventional straight bit with cutting edges

parallel to the bit axis cuts clean dadoes, but
it often leaves the shoulders fuzzy.
Upshear
An upshear straight also cuts a clean dado,

but it is certain to lift rather than cut
fibers along the margins.
186.105
9/26/07
2:58 PM
Page 105
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8/14/2007 3:10:44 PM
186.106
9/25/07
2:19 PM
Page 106
Cutting Mortises and Tenons: Which Bit is Best?
Pat Warner's 508 mortising bit closely

resembles cutters designed for slot mortisers.
It excavates smooth-walled, 2+"-deep mortises
with ease.
The most popular bit for routing mortises is

the solid carbide upspiral. The bit augers into
the wood like a drill bit, and its flute geometry
clears chips from the deepest of cuts.
Tenons, laps and very wide rabbets can be cut

with a very long straight bit. Set the bit to the
desired cut length, and stage the depth using
the fence.
Compression Bit
Breakdown
up and out of the deep cut. Farther

on in the catalog, I see a single-flute
plunge-cutting bit, a stagger-tooth
bit and even a solid carbide twoflute bit, all of which are the diameter and length that I want.
I have often used conventional
carbide-tipped straights for routing
mortises. Im sure all these bits will
do the job, especially with a shop vac
connected to the router to extract
chips as theyre generated. But were
looking for the ideal bit.
So I page on. I scan the lists of
solid carbide spiral bits. Then an
unusual bit 6" long overall, with
1"-long upshear cutting flutes at one
end, a 1/2" shank at the other and a
necked-down section in between
catches my eye. But its for a slot
mortiser, not a router.
Nevertheless, it reminds me of Pat
Warners new 508 mortising bit
(photo above) ... a great option!
Warners instruction sheet for the
508 makes the case for the bit. The
cut diameter is actually .508, a few
thousandths larger than the shank
diameter and almost 30 thousandths
larger than the bodys midsection.
This provides a lot of chip clearance. The cutting is done at the
floor of the cut, not the walls, so
theres no need for long slips of carbide. The bit isnt a plunge-cutter;
you have to ramp down into the cut
by feeding the router laterally as you

plunge. A good part of Warners
case is economic. Assuming you
work the bit as hard as he does,
youll undoubtedly find it a better
deal than most other options.
lywood, melamine-coated particleboard (MCP), medium-density

fiberboard and other composite
sheet goods are useful and efficient.
The drawback for many home-shop
woodworkers is the size and weight
of the stuff. Cutting down that 4' by
8' sheet can be a challenge.
Many use a circular saw. But the
splintered edges a circular saw
leaves, especially when sawing across
the face veneers, usually mean you
cut the pieces oversize, then trim
them down on the table saw.
Why not borrow a technique from
industry? In that world, a CNC
router driving solid carbide compression bit reduces a full sheet of
MCP to a stack of precision cabinet
parts in minutes.The edges are crisp,
the melamine coating unchipped.
A 2-HP router has sufficient moxie
to power a 1/2" compression bit
through 3/4" plywood or MDF in
one pass.With careful layout, you
can cut the sheet once and
be done.You wont
need to recut any
parts to clean up
the edges.
106
Next time youve got some simple edge jointing

to do, try taking a large-diameter slow spiral
router bit for a spin.
But it isnt the only one thats good.

I still like spiral bits for mortising. The
diameter, cut length and up-cut geometry I want is available from several
vendors, including Whiteside, Integra
and Onsrud. The initial outlay is high,
but the working line is twice as long
186.107
9/24/07
12:07 PM
Page 107
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107
186.108
9/25/07
2:19 PM
Page 108
Youre probably thinking, Why doesn't this know-it-all just

give me a list of the straight bits I should have?" Sooo . . .
Bills Best Bits

ight now youre probably thinking
to yourself, "Why doesn't this
know-it-all just give me a list of the
straight bits I should have?" Sooo . . .
Since everyone wants to do the
woodworking I do and wants to do
it just the way I do it, here's my list.
I'm assuming you already have some
standard sizes of those two-flute,
carbide-tipped bits 1/4", 1/2", 3/4"
and so forth. Here are bits I use for
specific, oft-repeated jobs. All are
available from a variety of sources.
Cutting grooves for 1/4" plywood:
7/32" straight bit, cut length of 1/23/4", overall length of 2-21 2", on 1/4"
shank. Could be one- or two-flute,
solid carbide or carbide-tipped.
General-purpose grooving, trammel work, and so forth: 1/4" solid
carbide, two-flute straight, 1" cut
length, 21 2" overall length, 1/4" shank.
5/16" solid carbide upspiral, 1+" cut
length, 3+" overall length, 5/16" shank.
I don't hold to the "Rule of Thirds."
Mortising 3/4" stock: I use a 5/16"
bit; having one with a 5/16" shank
allows me to penetrate beyond the
cutting length. Use a sleeve to adapt
the shank to a 1/2" collet.
General mortising: 1/2" solid
carbide upspiral, 2" cut length and
4" overall length, 1/2" shank.
Breaking down sheet goods: 1/2"
solid carbide compression bit, 11 4" cut
length, 3" overall length, 1/2" shank.
Cutting dadoes for plywood:
23/32" (hinge) mortising bit, downshear cutting edges, 3/8" cut length,
1/2" shank.
Cutting curves that run both
with and against the grain
(without resetting the template
or changing your bit):
3/4" carbide-tipped, downshear trimmer, 11 4" cut length, 1/2" shank, with
both tip- and shank-mounted pilot
bearings on the same bit.
Cutting rabbets of all widths, laps,
tenons, surface planing gnarly
boards: 11 4" (hinge) mortising bit,
downshear cutting edges, 5/8" cut
length, 1/2" shank, with shank-mounted
pilot bearing.
108
as that of the carbide-tipped bit.

then switch bits, turn the work
And, I can get a spiral resharpened.
over, and complete the cut with the
Im accustomed to the routine of
flush-trimmer. Voila! No more dammortising with a spiral plunging
age.
directly to the bottom of the cut
Using a large-diameter bit reduces
at each end of the mortise, then
the exit angle of the cutting flutes,
whittling out the intervening waste. thus reducing the chance that the
Take this to the shop: Theres
flutes will leverage the wood fibers
seldom only one option, even when
and split the workpiece.
pursuing the ideal.
Finally, a shearing cut reduces the
Template Work: Heres one final stress that a conventional bits chopexample before we push on out of
chop cutting action applies to wood.
this steel and carbide thicket. You
To shorten an otherwise long cutwant to make four identical aprons
ter, choose a 3/4" downshear doublefor a table. Each has an undulating
bearing bit. Such bits are available
curve cut into its bottom edge.
in several cut lengths from many
Youve got a template, but your only vendors, including Eagle America
bit is a 1/2" flush trimmer. Last time and Infinity Tool. One bearing is on
you tried this sort of work, that bit
the tip, the other on the shank.
chunked and split some pretty
Choose the shortest one that will
expensive wood. Will it work this
do the job. By raising and lowering
time? Or is it time to shop for a more the bit, you can use either top- or
ideal bit for template-work?
bottom-mounted templates.
Shop, says I. You want features your
Whew! A lot of straight-bit techno
1/2" flush-trimmer lacks. First, look
talk to digest, I know. But, hopefully
for a larger diameter. Look also for a
youre now in the know when
slicing cutter rather than the pile-drivinvesting in specific straight bits
ing action of your bits straight up-and- youll really use!
down cutting edges. Invest in some
Bill Hylton is the author of
shear or spiral geometry. Finally, conWoodworking with the Router and
sider whether you can afford both a
a frequent contributor to the Journal.
flush-trimmer and a pattern bit.
The biggest challenge in curvededge template work is ensuring
Even a simple two-flute
that youre always sweeping
straight bit comes in a
down on the grain where it
myriad of offerings. For
runs out the edge. When you
example, regardless of
cut against the grain, you risk
cutting diameter, most bits
are available in a wide range
major tearout and splitting.
Having two bits enables you to of lengths. These 3/4" straight
cut always in the proper direc- bits have cutting lengths of (left
to right) 3/4", 1", 1 " and 2".
tion but still by cutting down
on the grain. You do part of
the curve with a pattern bit,
1
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Page 109
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186.110
9/7/07
5:54 PM
Page 110
WHATS IN STORE
contact info
Carter Products:
888-622-7837
Colonial Saw:
781-585-4364
Compact Combo Kit
Craftsman:
800-377-7414
Dremel:
800-437-3635
Cleaner Cuts with Four Cutters
Freud:
800-472-7307
The new Quadra-Cut router

bits from Freud have four cutting
edges rather than two: two upshear
cutters remove most of the stock;
two downshear cutters produce a
clean edge on the final cut. Theyre
available in several profiles; the bit
above sells for $58.
Grizzly:
800-523-4777
Milescraft:
847-683-9200
PennTek:
724-352-1507
Dremels Duo Two-Tool Kit

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QUIK LINK
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186.111
9/20/07
1:23 PM
Page 111
Biscuits Connect and Clamp

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111
186.112
9/12/07
2:16 PM
Page 112
Refinishing Rules Revisited

By Michael Dresdner
ABOUT MICHAEL DRESDNER

Michael Dresdner is a
nationally known
finishing expert and the
author of The New
Wood Finishing Book
from Taunton Press.
When not writing about
woodworking, he is an
active community
theater participant.
Contact us by writing
to Finishing Hotline,
Woodworkers Journal,
4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN
55340, by faxing us
at (763) 478-8396
or by e-mailing us at:
finishing@woodworkersjournal.com
Please include your home

address, phone number and
e-mail address (if you have one)
with your question.
112
I purchased shellac
flakes and dissolved
them in denatured alcohol
to make a one-pound cut.
When that was used up,
I did it again for more onepound cut shellac solution,
and it worked fine, too. The
third time I tried, the shellac
would not all dissolve,
instead forming a gummy
mass. What did I do wrong?
Do shellac flakes age in storage? How can I prevent this
from happening?
Jay A. Young
Silver Spring, Maryland
Michael Responds: Yes,
shellac flakes age in storage,
and short of stopping time
you cant change that.
What you can change,
however, is how fast they
Like fine wine
turning to
vinegar,
shellac flakes
can go bad as
they age.
go bad, and that is pretty

easy. Heat, moisture and
sunlight are the three
enemies of flake shellac.
Store shellac in an airtight
and watertight container in
a dark, cool, dry place, and
they will last a lot longer.
That means you cannot
store them for long in a
paper bag or cardboard
container, even if that is
how they arrived from the
vendor. I realize this offers
little consolation, but you
might like to know that
there is a name for what
happened to your shellac
when it went bad. It is
called blocking. You still
need to toss that shellac and
buy new stock, but at least
you now have a name for
what happened.
I pulled up a 30-yearold wall-to-wall carpet

and pad, and I was delighted
to see the hardwood floor
underneath was in good
condition. It appeared the
room once had an area
carpet, and the finish and
color under the area carpet
was worn very differently
than the perimeter of the
room. I wanted to even it
out before applying a
polyurethane finish. I mixed
a cocktail of two parts mineral spirits, 1/2 part boiled
linseed oil and 1/8 part stain
and mopped it over the
entire floor, going back over
it again with a dry mop, and
it looked great when wet.
The mixture soaked into the
floor like a sponge where
the area rug was, but two
weeks later it is still tacky in
a 2' perimeter around the
edge of the room. The floor
has 107 years of character,
so sanding is not an option.
Any suggestions?
David Criss
New Albany, Indiana
186.113
9/20/07
11:36 AM
Page 113
Floors or Furniture
The rules for finishing and
refinishing are the same no
matter what the surface: you
before you begin
Michael Responds:
finishing. That
must start with clean, raw
The rules for finishmight have meant
ing and refinishing
degreasing and
wood, devoid of wax, dirt,
are the same no matdewaxing the floor
ter what the surface:
by scrubbing it
airborne grease and finish.
you must start with
with naphtha or
clean, raw wood,
mineral spirits
devoid of wax, dirt,
before you applied
airborne grease and
anything, and it might have
resulting in exactly what
finish. Unless you left out a
meant removing the perimeyou described.
step in your description, it
I can understand not want- ter finish with chemical
sounds as if you did not
stripper, but now you have
ing to sand an old floor
clean the perimeter area,
to remove your cocktail as
laden with character, but
much less remove the finwell. You might be able to
that does not absolve you
ish. The presence of old findo the whole job with refinfrom cleaning and stripping
ish combined with accumulated airborne grease or wax the finish in some other way. isher, a slightly less aggressive version of paint
Ideally, you want the entire
would prevent an oil-based
floor at the same stage
concoction from drying,
WINNER! For simply

sending in his question
on aging shellac, Jay
Young of Silver Spring,
Maryland, wins
Olympics Interior
Wood Finishing Kit.
Each issue we toss new
questions into a hat
and draw a winner.
continues on page 114 ...
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113
186.114
9/6/07
12:08 PM
Page 114
Bear Essentials
Come over and see what I bought, Dot insisted on the phone, and
while you are here you can tell me how to finish it. Its a seven-foottall bear carved from a Western red cedar tree trunk, and it is going
to live outdoors in front of the house.
I groaned, but kept my opinion to myself. Out here in the Pacific
Northwest, there are vastly more chainsaw carved bears than live
ones, and I was fairly certain society could exist without yet another
one. Still, Dot is dear to my heart, so I said nothing and went to see
this fine acquisition that she had appropriately dubbed Pooh.
Bear in mind, I said, ignoring her scowl at my shameless pun,
that we are essentially talking about finishing a log. If you do
nothing at all, it will eventually oxidize to silver gray, look rustic and
distinguished, and outlast both of us. Anything else will alter the
appearance and will also necessitate some degree of maintenance.
The next simplest option is deck stain, which adds color and
prevents the wood from going gray but still leaves it looking natural
and woody. As with a deck, youll have to clean it and re-apply stain
each year for the first few years, then as needed after that. One step
up from that is acrylic fence and siding stain, which
can last five years or more. For a shiny,
furniture look use spar varnish or spar
urethane. These options will require
cleaning, sanding and re-coating every
few years, and they may eventually
require stripping and refinishing.
Clearly, she wanted opinion, not
options, because she pressed on.
What would you use on it if it were
yours? she asked insistently.
If it were mine? I replied. A match.
Michael Dresdner
114
remover, and you might have to resort

to the real thing. Either way, you need
to get to clean wood.
Once there, use diluted stain if you
must to get the color you want, but
leave the linseed oil out. If you use
an oil-based stain, it already has oil in
it, and adding more is not helping
anything. Since you now know the
floor may be a problem as far as contamination is concerned, I would add
one more step. After you apply your
stain and let it dry, seal the floor with
one coat of Zinsser SealCoat before
moving on to whatever floor finish you
choose. SealCoat acts as a barrier to
seal in any contamination you might
have missed during your cleaning step,
and it is compatible under whatever
finish you choose.
I live in a 100+ year-old building
with oak woodwork that I believe
is original to the house. We are currently trying to repair some gouges
in the doorframes with wood filler and
a dark walnut stain. The dark walnut
stain is wonderful for filling in smaller
scratches, but it does not penetrate the
filler very well. Is there something else
we could be doing or something else
we could be using that would be more
effective at penetrating the purportedly
stainable wood filler?
Heather L. Evans
Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
Michael Responds: You have three
good choices. The easiest is to switch
to a putty that is close enough to the
right color that it matches after your
stain is applied to it. Putties come in
all colors, so that should not be difficult. Another option is to change
brands of putty, since they all absorb
stain to different degrees. You might
find one that acts the way you want
with your stain. The third option is to
fill the gouge, then touch up the area
to make it match using small artists
brushes and some sort of coloring
media. The easiest is probably artists
acrylic colors that you find in your
local craft store. Simply paint the
patch to look like the surrounding
wood. Since the acrylic is self-sealing,
you may not even need to add any
clear finish over it.
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