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TITCHY THREADS 2013. All rights reserved.

2

TERMS OF USE ......................................................................................................................................................................... 3
NOTES ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS ........................................................................................................................................................ 3
PATTERN ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS ...................................................................................................................................... 4
PATTERN LAYOUT DIAGRAM................................................................................................................................................... 4
CONTACT ................................................................................................................................................................................. 5
SIZE CHART .............................................................................................................................................................................. 5
FINISHED GARMENT SIZES ...................................................................................................................................................... 5
SUPPLIES.................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
KNIT TIPS ................................................................................................................................................................................. 7
KNIT FABRICS ........................................................................................................................................................................... 8
GLOSSARY ................................................................................................................................................................................ 8
TROUSERS ............................................................................................................................................................................... 9
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS ..................................................................................................................................................... 9
STEP 1 ATTACH THE PANEL ............................................................................................................................................ 10
STEP 2 SEW INSIDE LEG AND HEM ................................................................................................................................. 11
STEP 3 PRESS AND SHIRR WAISTBAND .......................................................................................................................... 12
TIPS FOR SHIRRING ........................................................................................................................................................... 12
KIMONO TOP ......................................................................................................................................................................... 14
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS ................................................................................................................................................... 14
STEP 4 SEW ARM SEAMS AND BIND wrists .................................................................................................................... 15
STEP 5 ATTACH ARMS .................................................................................................................................................... 18
STEP 6 ATTACH BINDING ................................................................................................................................................ 19
STEP 7 PREPARE AND SEW ON RIBBONS ....................................................................................................................... 22
PATTERN PIECES .................................................................................................................................................................... 25

TITCHY THREADS 2013. All rights reserved. 3

This free pattern is intended for personal use only. I reserve the right to make this a paid pattern in the future. This will
include several sizes and options. The paid version will also give small-scale home based crafters the right to sell
handmade kimonos and trouser made with the pattern.

All patterns, pictures and instructions are protected by copyright law and should not be copied, reproduced or
redistributed in any way. All rights reserved. Thank you for supporting my small business.

Difficulty level:
Teeny Tiny Trousers: confident beginner
Little Kid Kimono Top: confident beginner intermediate*
* There are more steps involved in the top and it will take longer than the trousers. However, none of the
steps are complicated and the instructions will take you through them easily.

Skills required: sewing a curve, straight stitch, zigzag stitch, attach binding
Seam allowances of 1cm (3/8) are included on all pattern pieces (unless stated otherwise).
Pattern uses metric measurements first then imperial measurements in brackets and italics throughout.
It is assumed that you have regular sewing supplies and a sewing machine.
Always backstitch at the beginning and end of a seam then finish threads.



IMPORTANT: Read all of the instructions carefully before you start.

The pattern can be printed out on Letter or A4 sized paper.

1. Make sure to print the pattern pieces at Actual Size (also called Print at 100% or No scaling). Do not scale.

2. The instructions and pattern pages are separated for the trousers and the top, so it is possible to just print one
out if you dont want to make both.

Pattern pages required Instructions
Trousers 25-28 9-13
Top 29-34 14-24

3. Two test squares (5cm or 2) are included on page 25 and page 29 to check the pattern is printing at the correct
size. Print one of these pages first and check the size of one of the squares is correct before printing the rest of
the pages you need.

4. To save paper, consider printing the instructions two pages per sheet.
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1. Cut or fold the edges. I prefer to fold instead of cutting them - use a metal ruler to fold on the line. When
joining two edges you can fold one edge and then overlap onto the other edge.

2. Match up the respective triangles and pattern lines then tape together. Repeat until all pieces are joined
following the layout below.

3. Trace or cut to the size needed.

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If you have any questions or comments then email me at laura@titchythreads.com and I will be happy to help.
You can share your own Little Kid Kimono and Teeny Tiny Trousers and look for inspiration in the Titchy Threads Flickr
group;
http://www.flickr.com/groups/titchythreads/
A pattern page with further information and useful links is maintained at;
http://www.craftstorming.com/littlekidkimonopattern
The measurements below are those of the child not the garment. As this pattern uses knit fabric and the waistband is
shirred there will be a reasonable amount of range. Both garments are designed for a baby aged 0-3 months.

Weight 5kg 11lb

cm inches
Waist cm /(inches) 41 16.25
Chest 41 16.25
Height 55 6.25

The shirred waistband will gather to fit waists approximately 14 and larger. The exact measurement depends on the
tension of your shirring.
The measurements below indicate the finished sizes of the garments.
Teeny Tiny Trousers

cm inches
Waist From approx. 14,
depending on shirring
Finished Length 29 11.5

Little Kid Kimono Top

cm inches
Waist 42 16.5
Chest 42 16.5
Sleeve length (from top
of raglan sleeve to
wrist)
23 9
Length (from back of
neck to bottom edge)
25 10
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Recommended fabrics;
Trousers Jersey note that interlock is not recommended for the shirred waistband.
However, it is possible to use interlock by using an elasticated waistband
instead
Kimono Top Main fabric - jersey or interlock
Binding - jersey


IMPORTANT: Always prewash, dry and press your fabric before you start cutting into it.


The measurements below are based on 150cm (60) wide fabric and allow for some shrinkage when the fabric is first
washed. Measurement given is length of fabric required, unless stated otherwise.

Trousers 0.45m (0.5 yards)
Kimono Top Main fabric for body and arms - 0.35m (0.4 yards)
Binding 1.9m (2 yards) if cutting a continuous strip, less if piecing. You will
still have the majority of the fabric left for another use if cutting on or across
the grain. Alternatively, buy a package of pre-made knit binding.


Elastic thread for shirring
Co-ordinating thread
Wonder Tape a double sided transparent tape that disappears after washing (optional but recommended)
Twin needle (optional)
Serger (optional) note that serger tips appear in orange boxes or are underlined in orange
If you have never sewn with knit fabric before then do not be put off. Check out the knit tips below before you start
sewing.


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I love sewing with knit fabric. It is no more difficult than woven fabric and you do not need a serger - you just need to
make a few adjustments to your machine set up to get the best performance.

1. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle

2. A walking foot helps to feed both layers of fabric through evenly and prevent puckering.

3. If you do not have a walking foot then reducing the foot pressure is a good alternative.

4. Interlock is the most stable type of knit fabric and is the best choice for those trying knits for the first time.

5. Jersey can curl towards the right side. If the curling is excessive then use spray starch to make the fabric more
stable.

6. Use a zigzag stitch, stretch stitch or serger on any seams that need to stretch. If you use a straight stitch then
your stitches will start to break with wear. I prefer a narrow zigzag stitch length 3.0 and width 0.5.

7. A twin needle is recommended for hemming. This produces two rows of straight stitches on the top with a single
line below that weaves between the rows. This allows the stitches to stretch.

8. Do not stretch your fabric as you cut it. Using a rotary cutter and cutting mat can help to prevent this.

9. Do not stretch your fabric as you sew. Just gently guide it without pulling, unless instructed otherwise.

10. The thickness and stability of different knit fabrics can vary greatly. Always practice on scrap fabric and check
tension before you start.

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JERSEY A single knit fabric. Can be made from cotton, wool, silk, bamboo or synthetic fibres. Sometimes
includes lycra to increase stretch. Jersey has a right and a wrong side. Like knitting, it has distinct
v stitches on the right side and purl stitches on the wrong side.
INTERLOCK A double-sided fabric that has the v stitches on both sides. Generally thicker and with less
stretch than jersey, interlock tends to give a slightly looser fit. It doesnt curl and is more stable,
making it a good choice for a first project sewing with knits.
RIBBED KNITS The most stretchy type of knit fabric, with distinct vertical ribs. 100% cotton ribbed knits do not
have good stretch recovery and require the greatest care when sewing to avoid puckering.
Suitable for leg or panel pieces but not cuffs and waistbands.
RIBBING A type of ribbed knit that has had lycra or spandex added to improve the stretch recovery.
Suitable for cuffs and waistbands.

Right side Fabric has a right side and a wrong side. Jersey tends to curl towards the right side. With
interlock it can be difficult to identify sometimes and the difference can be very subtle. If you
are not sure then just choose a side and use a fabric marker to mark the wrong side on all
pieces.
Top stitch A row of stitches sewn close to a finished seam. Used to secure the seam allowance or for
decorative purposes.
Seam allowance The fabric between the stitches for a seam and the edge of the fabric. It is usually hidden on the
inside of a garment. As knit fabric does not fray it is not necessary to finish the edges of the
seam allowance.
Scant This means you sew just under the seam allowance stated. For example, a scant 1/4 seam
means to sew with a seam allowance just under 1/4". You can adjust your needle to the left or
right to help sew this accurately.
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Cut the pattern pieces with the greatest stretch going across the pieces, not down. The greatest stretch is normally
perpendicular to the grain. The fabric used for the pieces shown below had 4-way stretch so it was possible to cut the
stripes in both directions. The trousers have a loose fit so it is possible to cut the bum panel against the grain even if
your fabric only has a little bit of give in that direction.

The main leg piece should be cut on the fold so you will have two fabric pieces, as shown.




TIP: If you are using stripes then you will not be able to get them to line up if you cut both the main leg piece
and the bum panel with the stripes running horizontally.


If you want to add any details to the panel, such as an applique design, it will be much easier to add it now. Remember
to allow for seam allowance of 3.5cm (1) at the top and 1cm (3/8) on the sides and bottom. Also bear in mind that
the bottom fifth(ish) of the panel will be tucked out of sight when the trousers are worn.




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1.1
Place the main leg piece with right side facing
up.

Place the bum panel on top with right side
facing down so that right sides are together.

Line up the long edges and pin. The panel
should be wider at the bottom where it meets
the leg curve.


1.2
Stitch or serge the seam as shown with a
zigzag stitch and a 1cm (3/8) seam allowance.

Stitch down to the point of the v at the
bottom of the bum panel.



1.3
Arrange the pieces so the other long edge of
the panel is lined up with the other long edge
of the main piece, with right sides facing.

Stitch or serge the seam, as before. Press both
seam allowances towards the panel.

OPTIONAL: Top stitch close to the edge of
each panel seam










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2.1
Arrange the trousers so the leg seams are
lined up with right sides facing.

Pin the inside leg seam.





2.2
Stitch the seam with a zigzag stitch and a 1cm
(3/8) seam allowance.

TIP: To stitch a curve sew slowly and stop
when necessary to adjust. Pivot the fabric
with the needle down and continue sewing.


2.3
Keep the trousers so they are wrong side out.

Turn both ankle hems up 1.2cm (1/2) and
press.



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2.4
Arrange the leg on your machine as shown.
You are sewing into the leg, so your top stitch
will sew on the right side of the leg.

Begin at the inner leg seam. Sew with a 1cm
(3/8) seam allowance using long straight
stitch or twin needle (recommended).

Repeat for the other leg.


Shirring involves sewing several rows of stitches with elastic thread on the bobbin. This gathers the fabric and gives the
garment stretch in that area. Shirring should gather the fabric and reduce its width by approximately half but this does
depend on the tension of your machine and the fabric itself. It tends to work better with lighter weight fabrics. Shirring
makes a waistband that will fit very comfortably with a lot of range in the size it will fit. This is ideal for these trousers for
newborn babies, who can have widely varying waist sizes.
Some people find they are able to shirr on their sewing machine first time without any issues while others need to spend
some time making adjustments to get it to work. My reading suggests that those with top loading bobbins are more
likely to have problems, particularly those with Brother sewing machines. The type of elastic thread you use can also
affect your shirring so try other brands if you are still having problems.
My machine has a top loading bobbin and this is what works for me:
Hand wind the elastic thread onto the bobbin. Pull the thread just a little bit so it does not hang loosely around
the bobbin.
Use a straight stitch with stitch length 3.
Use a top tension of 3.
When clipping threads pull enough of the elastic thread out so that it doesnt ping back into the bobbin.
Forward and back stitch at the start and end of end row to secure the elastic.

Recommended tutorials:
http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2011/11/sewing-tip-shirringsmocking-with-elastic-thread.html
http://pretty-ditty.blogspot.co.uk/2009/04/smockingshirring-tutorial.html
http://www.rufflesandstuff.com/2010/02/shirring-tutorial.html
http://grosgrainfabulous.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/shirring-with-your-brother.html


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3.1
Turn your trousers right sides out.

Fold the waistband over 3.5cm (1)and
press.


3.2
Shirr the waistband. Use a straight stitch and
the free arm if your machine has one.

Start and finish at one of the panel seams.
Make sure to sew a couple of times back and
forwards at the start and end of each row to
secure the elastic.

Sew the first row with a scant 6mm (1/4)
then use the first row as a guide for the next.
Continue until you have sewn five rows of
stitches.


3.3
Your Teeny Tiny Trousers are now finished.








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Cut the pattern pieces with the greatest stretch going across the pieces, not down. The greatest stretch is normally
perpendicular to the grain.




Piece Name Number
required
Further instructions
Main Body
Piece
1 IMPORTANT: This piece is not symmetrical - the view shown above is with the right side
of the fabric showing. Check the position of the angled and rounded corners on the
bottom of the piece before cutting.
Arm Pieces 2 Cut both together with fabric folded right sides together so the top piece is mirrored
giving a left and right arm piece.
Wrist Binding
Piece*
2 Use jersey knit (as for binding strip below). Can cut on grain, across grain or on the bias.
Fabric strip for
binding
1 1.8cm (71) long and 3.5cm (1) wide strip of jersey knit for binding cut on grain,
across grain or on the bias. You can join two (or more) strips together if necessary
Ribbon Pieces 6 Use grosgrain ribbon that is 6mm to 10mm (1/4 to 3/8) wide. Pieces should be 20cm
(8) long. Ribbon that looks the same on both sides is recommended.

The wrist binding pieces were included within the long binding strip in the picture above so are not shown
separately.

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4.1
Fold arm pieces right side together. Line up
and pin the edges of the long seam.

The picture shows both arm pieces pinned so
they can be sewn from the wrist up to the
underarm.

OPTIONAL: Serge the seam instead.




4.2
Sew the seam with a zigzag stitch and a 1cm
(3/8) seam allowance.

OPTIONAL: Serge the seam instead.

Press seam allowance to the back of the arm
(the higher side).


4.3
Take your two wrist binding pieces.

Fold in half lengthways with right sides
together then pin, as shown for the bottom
piece.

Stitch or serge the seam using a zigzag stitch
and a 1cm (3/8) seam allowance.

Repeat for the other piece.


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4.4
You now have two circles of binding.

Turn them right sides out.



4.5
Take each arm piece, still with wrong side
facing out.

Slide a binding piece into each wrist so the
right side of the binding is facing the right side
of the arm. Line up the binding seam with the
underarm seam.

Line up the two edges and pin from the inside.
This will make the next step easier.


4.6
Arrange the arm on your machine as shown.

You are sewing into the arm, so your top stitch
will sew on the right side of the wrist. Begin at
the underarm seam.

Sew each wrist with a zigzag stitch and a 1cm
(3/8) seam allowance.








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4.7
Press excess binding and seam allowances so
they are facing away from the arm.

Fold the binding over to the wrong side and
arrange so it just covers your first line of
stitching. Pin in place. Pin from the right side
of the arm through the binding seam and
check the pin has caught the binding on the
wrong side. If it has then the binding will also
get caught in the stitches.


4.8
Sew to the inside of the each wrist again. Use
a long straight stitch or twin needle
(recommended).

Stitch on the binding just to the edge of the
binding seam. It can help to adjust your
needle to the right. Begin sewing at the inner
arm seam.

TIP: You may need to increase your stitch
tension as you are now sewing through
several layers of fabric.


4.9
Check on the wrong side of each wrist that all
of the binding has been stitched down. Repeat
if necessary.

Turn your arms right sides out. You are now
ready to sew them to the main body piece.






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5.1
Arrange the main body piece with right side
facing up. Take the left arm and line up the
edge of the front arm seam with the front of
the arm hole on the left front section on the
main body piece. You should have right sides
facing.

Pin into place, lining up the underarm seam
with the notch at the curve on the body piece.
The top curve of the arm piece should not be
pinned.


5.2

Flip the arm piece over so the back of the arm
is facing the back of the arm hole on the back
section of the main body piece. Continue
pinning to the top.

The picture shows the view from the wrong
side of the body piece.



5.3
Sew all around the arm seam, starting from
the top of the front of the arm and continuing
to the top of the back of the arm.

Use a zigzag stitch and a 1cm (3/8) seam
allowance.

OPTIONAL: Serge the seam instead.


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5.4
Attach and sew the right arm. This is done the
same as he left arm except it is reversed. This
means that you will pin the back of the arm to
the back of the body piece first.

Similarly, start sewing from the top of the
back of the arm, not the front.

Your kimono will now have both arms
attached.



6.1
Start pinning on the binding strip, lining up
one edge of the strip with the outer edge of
the main body / arm pieces. The right side of
the binding should face the right side of the
main body piece.

Start at the bottom corner of the front left
section of the main body piece and work in a
clockwise direction.

TIP: Do not stretch the binding strip,
especially around the curves (where you
should use a lot of pins).



6.2
Pin almost all the way around. You will see a
gap has been left in the photo just before
reaching the corner of the bottom left corner.

Sew with a zigzag stitch and a 1cm (3/8)
seam allowance. Start from the same place
that you started pinning and sew in a
clockwise direction.


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6.3
When you come to sew the final unpinned
section stop with the needle down. Take the
very first section of binding that you sewed
and fold it over towards you. You should now
see the right side of that first section of
binding (see picture).

You can now pin the last section of the
binding on top and finish stitching.


6.4
A. Take the first few centimetres (two inches)
of binding that you sewed. Fold the binding
over and arrange so it just covers your first
line of stitching on the wrong side. Pin from
the right side of the kimono through the
binding seam to catch the binding on the
wrong side (as for the wrist binding in step
4.7).

B. Take the binding at the bottom. Fold it so
the two edges line up and it has right sides
facing.

C. Pin in place and stitch where the red line
shows. You should stitch as close to the first
section of binding underneath as you can but
not catch it just sew the folded binding on
top. Use small stitches, sew right to each edge
and stitch back and forwards twice to
reinforce.


6.5
Cut the binding as close as possible to the line
you just sewed without cutting into it.

Cut the binding underneath as well so it is
level with the fold of the binding on top.


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6.6
Flip the corner of the bottom section of
binding over so the right side is now showing.
This gives a neat finish to the binding.


6.7
Fold all the binding over and arrange so it just
covers your first line of stitching on the wrong
side. Pin in place. Pin from the right side of
the kimono through the binding seam (as for
the arm binding in step 4.7)

Start at the bottom left and work in a
clockwise direction.

6.8
Use a long straight stitch or twin needle.

Stitch onto the binding just to the edge of the
binding seam. It can help to adjust your
needle to the right.

Begin sewing at the bottom left corner and
sew in a clockwise direction around the whole
of the kimono.


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6.9
Check on the inside that all of the binding has
been stitched down.



TIP: Wondertape secures the ribbon in place better and makes sewing them easier than using pins. This
applies throughout step 7.



IMPORTANT: When securing all ribbons to the kimono top use a triple straight stitch if you have one. If not,
stitch back and forwards twice to secure.


7.1
Transfer all ribbon markings (A to F) from the
pattern if you havent already.

Take a piece of ribbon and fold one end 1cm
(3/8) to the wrong side. Fold over to the
wrong side again by the same amount.

Use short straight stitches, as shown, to
secure in place. Repeat for all 6 pieces of
ribbon.



7.2
Take the unfolded end of 3 pieces of ribbon
and fold over 5mm (3/16) to the right side.

Check the markings on the pattern for ribbon
pieces A, B and C. Secure a ribbon at each of
these three makings. Place so that the (single)
folded edge of the ribbon lines up with the
inner edge of the binding and the right side of
the ribbon is showing. See next photo for the
view from the inside.

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7.3
Secure each ribbon in place, as shown by
stitching over the existing stitch line that
secures the binding.

You can see the how ribbon C lines up with
the edge of the binding on the inside.

7.4
Take the unfolded end of 1 piece of ribbon
and fold over 1cm (3/8) to the wrong side.

Place the ribbon so the (single) folded edge
lines up with the edge of the marking for
ribbon D.

Secure in place by stitching a small triangle
that covers the fold.



7.5
Take the unfolded end of 1 piece of ribbon
and fold over 5mm (3/16) to the wrong side.

Place the ribbon on the marking for ribbon E.
This should be on the right side of the fabric
and the single fold should sit on the right arm.

Stitch in place.

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7.6
Take the unfolded end of 1 piece of ribbon
and fold over 5mm (3/16) to the wrong side.

Place the ribbon on the marking for ribbon F
so the right side is facing up. This should be on
the wrong side of the fabric and the single
fold should sit on the seam allowance of the
left with the fold just meeting (but not going
over) the stitch line.


7.7
Check that the ribbon doesnt cause a bump in
the arm seam from the right side.

Stitch in place.

7.8
Your kimono top is now finished!