Reynolds Creek

Bouldering Area
beta booklet by:
Jamey Sproull
2005
About the Area:
Reynolds Creek is a desertous area located in southeastern Idaho about
20 miles south of Nampa, ID and approximately one hour from Boise. The boulders are
in an area that feels far from everything, however, the closest gasoline and snacks are a
mere 15 minute drive. away.
The main areas consist of the following areas: Peaches, Rock Sham Boulder, Caddy
Shack Boulder, the Main Area, Camp Ground Area, and the Bone Yard.
All of these areas with the exception of the Peaches Boulder are within a mile of one
another and are within a very short hike from the road. Many of the areas have roads that
take you right to the boulders.
One of the most interesting part of this bouldering area is the rock diversity .
The road runs between the Bone Yard and the Camp Ground Boulders. The rock on the
left side of the road is all granite and the other side of the road is all volcanic rhyolite.
Directions:
Take I-84 West out of Boise
Take the Nampa/Marsing exit
Left at bottom of exit
Go through Nampa city center
You will soon find that you are on Hwy 45
Drive on Hwy 45 for about 15-16 miles
Cross the Snake River
Go 200 yards and stay RIGHT atfork in the road
Go 100 yards and take right at STOP sign
Go about a mile and take next LEFT
RIGHT on Upper Reynolds Creek Road past the dairy farm.
Drive about 7.5 miles past cattle grate
Look for large amounts of taller boulders
on the LEFT AND RIGHT side hilltops
Seasons
All are good, Spring and Fall are best
Rock Type
Volcanic Rhyolite and Granite
Number of Problems
Over 130
Number of Problems at or Above V7
Around 30
General Environmental Considerations:
Stay on Trails.
Leave sagebrush alone.
Pick Up Tape and other Trash.
Clean the chalk off of the problems.
Don't scrub established problems with metal brushes.
Overview of Reynolds 2, 3
Peaches Boulder 4
Rock Sham Boulder 5
Caddy Shack Boulder 6
Main Area 7
Camp Ground Overview8, 9
Camp Ground Area 10
Seal Boulder Area 1 1
Lower Area 12
Arena Area 13
Grassy Knoll Boulder 14
Tombstone Area 15
Directions 16
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2
15
ridgeline
The Bone Yard p. 13, 14, 15
Caddy Shack Area p.6
Rock Sham Boulder p.5
Directions:
Take I-84 West out of Boise
Take the Nampa/Marsing exit
Left at bottom of exit
Go through Nampa city center
You will soon find that you are on Hwy 45
Drive on Hwy 45 for about 15-16 miles
Cross the Snake River
Take the RIGHT hand fork in the road
RIGHT at STOP sign
Next LEFT
RIGHT on Upper Reynolds Creek Road past the
dairy farm.
Drive about 7.5 miles past cattle grate
Look for large amounts of taller boulders on the
RIGHT AND LEFT side hilltops
Tombstone Boulder
cave
tombstone boulder
fever boulders
approx. 40 ft tall
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8 9
10
11
12
13
1. Gangrene- VH- sds up sharp, slopey pockets to tall top out
2. Hanta Virus- VH- sds up monos and sick shallow pockets, slabby top out
3. Freddie Mercury is Dead- VE- sds this fun problem up side pulls and deep
pockets to a slabby top out
4. Penicillin- VE- sds to huge pockets, great way to stretch out at the day's start
5. Low Grade Fever- VE sds under roof and work up thin crimpers and iffy topout
6. Cold Chills- VE- sds and topout to cool slopers and deep pockets
7. Cold Sweats- VE- sds in deep pockets and a one thin crimp to topout
8. Fondue Dream- VE- sds and slap to sloping edge, exits left, do not top
9. Epitaph- VM+ sds up sweet rhyolite edges and into sloping layback pockets, exit
left for a VM-, top out on questionable holds to get the full Epitaph feeling
10. Probate- VH- sds up deep pockets to a match and over the top to get the Bejesus
scared out of you. Drop to ground at upper match for VE
11. Mike 1- VH- sds up nonexistent crimpers
12. Mike 2- VH- sds up more nonexistent crimpers
13. Spandau Ballet- project- sds to shallow mono pockets to a sick deadpoint
top out on slopey holds
14. Requiem- project- overhung face climbing. Route is anchored
for top rope. Watch for loose rock
approx.
25 ft
approx.
10 ft
*
all top out
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*
14
Grassy Knoll p.14
Tombstone p. 15
Arena p. 13
Bouldering Area Overview
dow
nclim
b
topout 8-12 at 20 feet and
downclimb
on hillside
14
Main Area p.7
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Peaches Boulder
beta and directions p. 4
3
Camp Ground Area
p. 10, 11,12
camp
parking area
cattle grate
The Bone Yard's
Grassy Knoll Boulder
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1. JFK- VH- sds on left side of cave and climb out shallow pockets to a mantle,
go right just before mantle (to Marilyn) for a slightly easier up, stay left to go
with a true VH pull
2. Jackie O- VM+ sds on right side of cave and pop out sweet underclings and
good pockets to a mantle and topout.
3. Kissinger- VB- stand or sds up huge holds and fun moves to top
4. Marilyn's Red Lipstick- VE- sds up cool laybacks and good edges to mantle
5. Depository Arete- VE- sds and slap up good holds
6. Oswald Campus Problem- VM- sds, pull off ground, travel with no feet to right
on decent holds, slap to top, and mantle with feet back on.
7. Jack Ruby- VM- tricky sds slap up, then to good pockets and a great mantle,
look for the grass, that's where you'll find the good hold at top.
8. Conspiracy Theory- V VH- no one knows what Sus was thinking. Sds far right
side of overhang, work up horrible crimps and sloping holds, toward left, then top
out.
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water tower
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13
trail
rock
1
2
3
4
5, 5a
6, 6a
The Bone Yard's
Arena
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1. Montana -VB- sds to good edges and a fun top out
2. Sore Eyes- VB- sds up huge flakes, be careful of some loose rock
3. Sternum Saw- VM- sds pockets to a mantle, watch that strernum
4. Mausoleum- VH- sds inside a horizontal cave out thin crimpers and mantle to vertical
face
5. Uber Classic- VM- walk up hill directly out of Arena and look for overhung boulder
close to cliff edge, sds using underclings, pockets, egdes and a great mantle!
6. Point Blank- VM- great sds on deep pockets to a sickening match on slopey bulge.
Stay right by going to a thin crimp and a deadpoint to a huge jug. Tons of fun.
7. The Hole Ordeal- VH- sds mono right hand and left foot on huge edge near ground.
Head slightly left and up.
8. Elvis Has Left the Bone Yard- VE- sds this overhung classic. Can be done as a full
campus problem if you feel up to the challenge.
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The Peaches Boulder is located in the second canyon to your right about 3 miles past
the dairy farm as you enter the Reynolds Creek Area. Pull right off of road and up onto
a parking area. Walk straight toward hillside and off to the left down a trail. After
about a 5 minute walk you will see the boulder.
The rock is the typical Owyhee type volcanic rock but for the most part very solid. The
boulder is sitting in a bed of sand and the landing zones are perfect with the exception
of the back side of the boulder.
1. Rotten Peaches V6. Sit start just right of Peaches. Slap up the overhang, lock off to a
sloper, match and reach the dirty top ledge, do not top out.
2. Peaches V8- sds and climb up small edges and crimpers, top out.
3. Shelf V5- sds under the roof , dyno out to shelf. go straight up the face to a mono pocket
and up. Don't use dirty rock to left.
4. Peachonator V4/5- sds on a big hold under roof, traverse left to big low pocket, go left
until you hit the wam up problem, top out.
5. It's a Peach V2/3- sds at the small yellow corner with your left hand in a nice pocket. top
out the gently overhanging wall
5a. Warm Up V1- same start as 5, after the first two moves go right and straight up a lay
back feature.
6. Mastermind V7- sds on a big pocket, match on the big sloper and crimp up until you hit
the lip.
6a. Mastermind the Easy Way V5 - same as #6, slap sloper with right hand only and head
left immediately to top out.
Thanks to Mike Stoger for all of this
beta from the Peach Boulder
*
*
Peaches Boulder
12
5
Tic Tac Boulder
1. Meyonder-V2- sds on small edge and sharp
pocket. Mantle without using arete.
2. Minnesoter- V0- up small egdes
3. It's All You- V0
main road
1, 1a
2
3
4
Rock Sham Boulder
1
3
2
1- Yellow Ribbon- sds VE- on corner
2- Memorial Day- sds VE-super memorable warm-up
3- Non-Gender Specific Bitch- VM- sds in back
left corner, work up face of classic up problem
4- Toe Jam Arete- sds VE- on far left side of boulder
5- Phummunda- sds VM- sick crimps, bring your extra skin
6- Head Jam- sds VM- the "avant-garde" problem of the area. sds far right, work left
7- Wrapper- project- V VH- stand start and move into Love Me Some Blow Pop
8- Love Me Some Blow Pop- VH- stand and slap up sick slopers. work in shadows
9- Blow without the Pop- VM- start right, work left on face, top out on large flake
10- Fuck the Stick- VE- sds great warm-up on far right side
11- Clown Mantle- VE- stand start, slap up slopers and mantle off right
12- Mr. Giggles- VH- about as humorous as a funnybone, sick work up slopes and bad crimpers
13- Klutso the Clown- VH- sds low, work up tiny crimps and mantle
14- Flat Poop- VE- committing slab, scary top-out
15- Septum Arete- VE- great fun, big holds, decent top-out
16- Snots- VE- No beta here. Never been done the same way twice
17- Rhinoplasty- VE- stand and go up obvious holds
18- Farmer's Blow- VE - sds, heel hooks to decent holds
VEasy- VB-V3
VMed- V4-V6
VHard-V7-V8
V Very Hard- V9-up
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1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9, 10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
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The CampGround's
Lower Area
Rock Sham
Boulder Area
These 2 boulders are located in the flat sage
field all by themselves about a half of a mile
before the Caddy Shack boulder. It is about 7
miles from the cow grate at the dairy farm on
Upper Reynolds Creek Road.
Look on the right side of the road.
1. Thumb War V7- sds on right sloper,
left edge, traverse right and top out
1a. Bloody Knuckles V7- same start as
Thumb War, traverse across all
problems exit right of Scissors
2. Rock V1- sds match, go to huge
pocket
3. Paper V4- sds same as Rock, stay out
of big pockets, work up crimpy slicers
4. Scissors-V3- hang start and work
balancy moves to top
11
6
7
to main area

6
7
1
2
3, 3a
4
5
1
2
8
4a
Caddy Shack Area
Caddy Shack Boulder
1. 9th hole- V5 - sds on sloping rim of overhang. Finish on high sloping pocket.
2. 18th Hole- V7- sds climb through 9th hole, finish at arete point.
3. Five Iron- V5- sds on undercling under right side of roof, climb up right side, finish on 2 sharp
pockets.
3a. Project- sds at 5 Iron, go direct to arete nose on underbelly of Caddy Boulder.
4. The Wedge- V7- sds same as 5 Iron, but don't go to pockets, instead head out nose to a steep pinch
and large pockets at arete tip.
4a. Putter Traverse- V5- sds right of 5 Iron at lip, traverse lower section to beginning of 9th Hole.
5. Danny Boy- V0- Highball topout with good features
6. Range Balls- V0- sds on edges, work up one balancey power moves and top out easy.
7. Shanked V0- sds arete any way you want, medium or easy
The CampGround's
Seal Boulder Area
VEasy- VB-V3
VMed- V4-V6
VHard-V7-V8
V Very Hard- V9-up
quarter pipe
boulder
seal boulder
bastard boulder
4
6
5
1
2
3
1,1a
2
3
4
5
1. Judo Air Traverse- VH- stand far left and go right
1a. Tony Hawk Never Skated Here- VE- stand far left and head up
2. Shove It- VE- sds and up good edges
3. Hosoi- VE- sds up side pulls and laybacks, look out for that top-out
4. Security in Curity -VM- two hard bump moves
5. Nicolette's Sit Down Dyno- VE- nuff said
1. Seal the Deal- V VH- start far right, work up
tiny crimpers and slick slopers with virtually no
feet. Area Classic Hard Problem.
2. Project
3. Baby Seal Bats Back- VM- Stand at 2 tiny
crimpers and dyno.
Bastard Boulder
4. VM- work under roof and out to right side
5. Bastard Son -VE- sds and up edges and slopers
6. Bastard- VE- hang/sds- work right up slopers
and good crimps, top out at Bastard Son.
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1. Lamaze- V3- sds on
arete, pad across sloping
lip and up
2. Vulva- V2- be reborn
through the no-foot
mantle
7
1
2
3
5
6
7
10
16
11 12
13
14
15
4
8
Main Area
9
Catalysis Boulder
11. Miguel's Finger Crack- V2- sds, layback crack
to a high-step mantle. Optional sds from within the
cave V3.
12. Bird Crap Crack- V3- watch out for the nest.
13. Catalysis- V10- sds on jug, climb through
several moves with thin crimps.
14. Birth Simulator- V0- climb into large chimney
and exit through the small hole at the top.
15. 2nd Pitch Problems- V0 - climb on Patina holds
at the base of the broken pinnacle.
16. Wounded Knee- V4 - sds w/small crimps, use
big sloper, then into fist crack, topout.
Lorax Boulder
1. Box of Grain- V3 - Direct sloper problem on boulder
that connects Lorax to Catalysis.
2. Bedsores- V2- Start w/fragile flakes to a slopey mantle
3. Humping the Lorax- V8 - Climb direct face to slopey
dish mantle. Optional topout is several grades easier,
traverse right and exit above Bedsores V3.
4. Gritty Kitty- V3- sds on good flake and tiny left crimper,
up to pinch, out to right sloper crimp, topout
5. Grass Traverse- V5- Start in Mike's Finger Crack and
traverse lip, finish on slab.
6. Mike's Finger Crack-V2 - sds way low
7. Jagermeister- V4- sds in cave w/small crack. Exit to the
right.
8. Vladmir- V3- sds on right hand corner, work up one sick
crimper and a sloper out of cave to the right
9. Instant Classic-V1- sds in cave and climb through hole
using a 2 finger pocket.
10. Wedgie-V2 - sds big crack to cave
10
camp
1- Cat-Faced Spider- VH- stand and go up tiny holds to slopey top-out
2- Overhang Boulder- VE- stand match on right side of sloping ledge
3- Cosmic Squirrel- VM- stand, work up pinches to sloping match, then out right up sloping rail
4- Knee Jerk Concussion- VM- stand start beside arete, work 3 moves up, then press out slab
5- I Feel a Wooh Coming On- sds VM- work up tiny sharp crimpers and slopers
6- A Couple Woohs- VH- sds of I Feel a Wooh...
7- Flying Y- sds VM- work up crack, watch for loose rock at top
8- Grouper Boulder- Short Traverse- VE- start far right side and work left
9- Grouper Boulder Full Traverse- VM- continue onto horrible slopers
10- Slab- VE- have fun
11- It's a Small World- VE- work a layback up crack
12- M&M- VM- won't melt in your pocket
13- Darwin Game- sds VE- fun moves on Lightning Boulder
14- Lightning Warm-Up- VE- fun crimps and high steps
15- Ride the Lightning- V VH- stand on rock s & crash pads to reach first hold. Traverses to right.
16- Hop Up- VE- Start on right side, work up sideways flake
17- Dark Side of the Moon- VE- stand and go up left side, traverse on slopey top edge
18- Crescent- VM- sds or stand start on crescent shaped edge and go up
19- Moon Raker- VM- sds on left crimper and right large node and up
20- Moon Unit- VM- sds on left hand node and right hand jug at base of arete. Go up and top out to left.
21- Good Name (for a problem)- VM- sds on left side. Use bad holds and move up to big sloper
22- Mediocre Name -VE- stand and go up to decent dish
23- Bad Name- VE- move from two great holds to slopers. then to jugs at top
24- Crouching Teva Hidden Chaco- VE- run-up, no climbing shoes, prferable sandals, no hands, grab jug
25- Camp Crack- VE- obvious crack line layback
26,27- Mantle Left, Mantle Left- VE- sds, stay left or heasd right, both excellent warm-up problems
28- Ground Control Traverse- VM- work this great traverse in shadows, start right, go left
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Camp Ground Area
slackline area
1
2
3
4
5,6
7
8,9
10
11
12
13
14
15 16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26,27
28
VEasy- VB-V3
VMed- V4-V6
VHard-V7-V8
V Very Hard- V9-up
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to the bone yard
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camp
8
9
lower area
p. 12
seal boulder area
p.11
campground boulders
p.10
Campground Boulders
water tower
slackline area