Paper Fan Dress by Anna Maria Horner forJanome

size chart (actual body measurements)

Materials Needed:
*Woven Cotton materials from light to medium weight are perfect for this little frock.
Bodice: 2/3 yard all sizes
Bodice Lining: 2/3 yard all sizes
Skirt: 1 yard for sizes 2-3, 1 yards for size 4, or 1 yards for 5/-!/"
Notions Needed:
t#o 1$ %&ttons, coordinating s'ool of (oats ) *&al *&ty +,read
Cutting:
+,e 'attern 'ieces for t,e %odices need to %e 'rinted o&t at 1--. #,ic, yo& can ens&re after 'rinting %y &sing
t,e 'ro/ided 0eas&ring %ars on eac, 'a'er 'iece1 2o& can t,en follo# t,e tiling instr&ctions on t,e B 'iece
'ages to ta'e toget,er and create t,e f&ll size B 'attern1 +,en c&t 'attern 'ieces 3 4 B along t,e lines of yo&r
c,osen size1
Using the provided pattern pieces in your chosen size:
11 (&t one 5ront Bodice 637 on fa%ric fold fro0 o&ter fa%ric
21 (&t one 5ront Bodice Lining 637 on fa%ric fold fro0 lining fa%ric1
31 (&t t#o Back Bodices 6B7 fro0 o&ter fa%ric, one right side and one wrong side1
41 (&t t#o Back Bodice Linings 6B7 fro0 lining fa%ric, one right side and one wrong side1
Use the following dimension chart for your specified size to cut the Front Skirt & ack Skirts:
*Note: It's a good idea to pin a note to identify each of the skirt pieces as you cut them, and even to note the top
edges, ased on your faric placement preference. !his will help as you egin to mark and sew pleats and
construct the dress.
size
Front Skirt
c&t one fro0
o&ter fa%ric
ack Skirt !ight
c&t one fro0
o&ter fa%ric
ack Skirt "eft
c&t one fro0
o&ter fa%ric
2 28$#ide 9 15$tall 1:#ide 9 15$tall 11$ 9 15$tall
3 2815$#ide 9 115$tall 1 3/"$#ide 9 115$tall 11 3/"$#ide 9 115$tall
4 3-$#ide 9 2-$tall 1 5/"$#ide 9 2-$tall 11 5/"$#ide 9 2-$tall
5, 3-15$#ide 9 22$tall 1!$#ide 9 22$tall 12$#ide 9 22$tall
!," 31$#ide 9 24$tall 1! 1/4$#ide 9 24$tall 12 1/4$#ide 9 24$tall
#repare odice:
11 ;it, right sides toget,er and &sing a 5/"$ sea0
allo#ance, attac, t,e Bodice 5ront to t,e Bodice Back one
s,o&lder sea0 at a ti0e and 0aking s&re t,at t,e Bodice
Back 'ieces are oriented so t,at t,eir angled neck edges
are o/erla''ing eac, ot,er1 <ress %ot, s,o&lder sea0
allo#ances o'en1
21 =e'eat Ste' 1 #it, t,e Bodice 5ront Lining and Bodice
Back Linings1
31 ;it, right sides toget,er and &sing a 5/"$ sea0
allo#ance, attac, t,e >oined o&ter %odices to t,e >oined
lining %odices aro&nd t,e neckline starting at t,e %otto0
edge of one Back Bodice, contin&ing across t,e Bodice
5ront neckline and finis,ing at t,e %otto0 edge of t,e
ot,er Back Bodice 'iece1
41 ?se t,e Bodice Back 'attern 'iece to 0ark t,e start/sto'
dots on t,e Back Bodices1 @'en t,e o&ter and lining
%odices a'art fro0 eac, ot,er, and &nderstitc, t,e
neckline sea0 allo#ances to t,e %odice lining a%o&t 1/"$
a#ay fro0 t,e neckline sea0 starting at one 0arked dot
and sto''ing at t,e ot,er1
51 =et&rn %odices to %e right sides toget,er %efore se#ing
eac, ar0,ole edge &sing a 5/"$ sea0 allo#ance1
1 (li' and notc, all c&r/ed sea0 allo#ances, and %ring eac,
of t,e Back Bodices t,ro&g, to t,e right side %y '&lling
t,e0 t,ro&g, eac, of t,e s,o&lders, and contin&e to
s0oot, sea0s as yo& t&rn t,e entire %odice rig,t side o&t1
<ress #ell1
!1 ;it, one stitc, line yo& #ill %e 0aking t,e side sea0s of
t,e %odice lining and t,e o&ter %odice1 @n one side, %egin
%y aligning t,e front and %ack %odice linings to eac, ot,er
#it, right sides toget,er, and 'in in 'lace1 +,en t&rn t,e
front and %ack o&ter %odices &' to#ards eac, so t,at t,eir
right sides are also toget,er and 'in in 'lace1 Be s&re t,at
yo& are aligning t,e ar0,ole sea0 in t,is 'inned 'at,1
Ao# se# &sing a 5/"$ sea0 allo#ance fro0 t,e %otto0
edge of t,e o&ter lining %odices to t,e %otto0 edge of t,e
o&ter %odices and kee'ing t,e ar0,ole sea0 allo#ances
t&rned do#n to#ards t,e o&ter %odices1 <ress sea0 o'en
%efore ret&rning t,e o&ter and lining %odices so t,at t,eir
wrong sides are toget,er1
"1 =e'eat Ste' " on t,e ot,er side of t,e %odices1
81 ?se t,e Back Bodice 'attern 'iece to 0ark t,e %&tton ,ole
'lace0ent for t,e rig,t-,and %ack %odice1 6+,e %&tton
,ole 'lace0ent on t,e 'attern is set for t,e size 2, as t,e
'attern gro#s in size, t,e %&ttons 0ay look %est to %e
'ositioned fart,er a'art fro0 t,e center line1 B&st &se yo&r
%est >&dge0ent to re'osition17 Cake t,e %&tton,oles
t,ro&g, %ot, t,e o&ter and lining layers according to yo&r
se#ing 0ac,ineDs %&tton,ole 'rocess and corres'onding to
t,e size of yo&r c,osen %&ttons1 62o& 0ay also first
<re'are Bodice
Ste' 1 4 2
Ste' 3 Ste' 5
Ste'
Ste' ! 4 "
c,oose to add a s0all layer of interfacing %et#een t,e
o&ter and lining 'ieces #,ere t,e %&tton,oles #ill %e 0ade
for e9tra sta%ility17 <ress finis,ed %&tton,oles to set t,e01
Set Bodice aside1
#repare Skirt front:
*Note: the longer side of "ront #kirt is the width and the
shorter side is the height.
11 ;it, wrong sides toget,er, fold t,e 5ront Skirt in ,alf on
t,e #idt, aligning side edges #it, eac, ot,er1 <ress a
crease on t,e fold t,en dra# a line on t,e crease
0eas&ring 2$ fro0 t,e to' edge1
21 2o&Dll no# &se t,at center fold line as a reference 'oint to
dra# 2 0ore /ertical lines on eac, side of it1 +o do so,
0eas&re 5$ to t,e rig,t of t,e center line and 0ake a 0ark
at t,e to' edge, t,en again 5$ to t,e left of t,e center 0ark1
Cake anot,er 0ark 1-$ to rig,t of t,e center line, and
t,en 1-$ to t,e left of t,e center 0ark1 ;it, eac, of yo&r
0arkings, dra# a line fro0 t,e to' edge t,at is 2$ in
lengt,1 2o& s,o&ld no# ,a/e fi/e 2$ lines e9tending
do#n fro0 t,e to' edge1
31 ;it, wrong sides toget,er fold t,e #idt, of t,e 5ront
Skirt in ,alf so t,at t,e first 0ark yo& 0ade is rig,t on t,e
foldDs edge1 ?se a 1 1/2$ sea0 allo#ance to 0ac,ine
%aste t,e first %o9 'leat, and %ack stitc, t,e sea0 after
se#ing for 2$ of lengt,1 6+,e folded edge s,o&ld %e
#,ere yo& are 0eas&ring t,e sea0 allo#ance fro01 Ef
yo&r se#ing 0ac,ine does not ,a/e a 0arking for 1 1/2$,
si0'ly 0ark t,e distance on yo&r fa%ric %efore yo& %egin17
41 ;it, wrong sides toget,er fold t,e 5ront Skirt on t,e ne9t
0arked line, eit,er to t,e left or rig,t of t,e center, and
re'eat Ste' 3 to create anot,er 'leat t,at is 1 $ dee' and
stitc, line t,at is 2$ in lengt,1 (ontin&e #it, t,e
re0aining 0arkings &ntil yo& ,a/e 0ade all 'leats1
51 +o 'ress t,e %o9 'leats in 'lace, dis'erse t,e sea0
allo#ance of eac, 'leat eF&ally to eit,er side of t,e 'leat
sea0 6#,ic, #ill align yo&r 0arked line #it, t,e sea0,
and no# is a good ti0e to gi/e it a little s'ritz of #ater so
t,e lines #ill disa''ear7 and 'ress to create t#o cris'
creases for eac, 'leat1 Go# far do#n t,e skirt yo& 0ake
t,ese creases is &' to yo&, %&t do so for at least $ or so1
1 (ontin&e 'ressing &ntil all %o9 'leats ,a/e %een
co0'leted and set aside1
<re'are Skirt 5ront
Ste' 2
Ste' 4
Ste' 5
#repare Skirt ack:
HNote: ecause the ratio of width to height of the $ack #kirt
pieces fluctuates depending on what si%e you've cut, simply
compare the $ack #kirt pieces to the "ront #kirt to determine
which edges of the ack pieces are the widths and which are
the heights. !he skirt front and skirt ack pieces will have
the same height.
11 2o& #ill %e 0aking knife 'leats on only t,e Back Skirt
=ig,t 'iece, and none of t,e Left1 5ind t,e to' edge of t,e
Back Skirt =ig,t, and %egin to 0eas&re 'leat 0arks fro0
t,e left side edge1 Cark t,e to' edge 2$ fro0 t,e left side
edge, and t,en 0ake fo&r 0ore consec&ti/e 0arks at e/ery
1 1/2$ to#ards t,e rig,t side1 2o& s,o&ld no# ,a/e fi/e
0arks t,at are one inc, a'art, and yo& can no# dra#
/ertical lines at eac, 0ark t,at are 2$ in lengt, e9tend
do#n fro0 t,e to' edge1
21 ;it, wrong sides toget,er, fold t,e Back Skirt so t,at one
of t,e 0arked 'leat lines sits rig,t on t,e edge of t,e
crease, and 0ac,ine %aste #it, a sea0 allo#ance of 1/2$
a#ay fro0 t,e folded edge1 Cake t,is stitc, line 2$ in
lengt, e9tending do#n fro0 t,e to' edge and %ackstitc, at
t,e end1
31 =e'eat Ste' 2 #it, t,e re0aining fo&r 'leat lines &ntil yo&
are ready to 'ress t,e0 in 'lace1
41 +,ese 'leats #ill %e 'ressed into a knife 'leat style, so lay
all t,e folded sea0 allo#ances to#ards t,e left side edge
of t,e and 'ress to 0ake fi/e 'retty creases1
$ssem%le & Finish Skirt:
11 ;it, right sides toget,er and &sing a 5/"$ sea0
allo#ance, se# t,e 5ront Skirt to t,e Back Skirt =ig,t at
t,e side sea01 6+,e side of t,e Back Skirt =ig,t to incl&de
in t,is sea0 is t,e side t,at does not ,a/e 'leating ne9t to
it17 <ress sea0 allo#ance o'en1
21 ;it, right sides toget,er and &sing a 5/"$ sea0
allo#ance, se# t,e 5ront Skirt to t,e Back Skirt Left1 6+,e
Back Skirt Left is t,e sa0e on %ot, side edges, so ,o#
yo& orient t,is 'iece only de'ends on ,o# yo&Dd like for
t,e fa%ric to %e oriented17 <ress sea0 allo#ance o'en1
31 Ao# finis, side and ,e0 edges of t,e skirt1 Begin %y
0aking a 1/4$ rolled ,e0 6folding edge o/er 1/4$ to#ards
t,e wrong side and t,en again7 on t,e ra# side edges of
t,e Back Skirt 'ieces1 <ress %ot,1
41 Cake a 1/4$ rolled ,e0 on t,e %otto0 edge starting at t,e
lo#er corner of t,e Back Skirt =ig,t contin&ing aro&nd
t,e 5ront Skirt and finis,ing at t,e Back Skirt Left lo#er
corner1 <ress ,e0 edge #ell all aro&nd1
<re'are Skirt Back
Ste' 1
Ste' 4
3sse0%le 4 5inis, Skirt
Ste'1 4 2
$ttach Skirt to odice:
*Note: when attaching the &oined odices to the &oined skirts,
you will e treating the odice and its lining as one piece.
11 Lay o&t t,e to' edge of t,e >oined skirts #it, t,e %otto0
edge of t,e >oined %odices wrong sides toget,er 6wrong
side of skirt to lining side of %odice7 and co0'are t,e0 to
%e s&re t,at t,eir finis,ed total lengt, aro&nd t,e
circ&0ference of t,e dress 0atc,es and t,at t,e side sea0s
are in line1 Ef so0e ad>&st0ent is necessary, take &' or let
o&t t,e side sea0s of t,e skirt to acco00odate a 0atc,ing
size to t,e %odice1 +,en #it, wrong sides toget,er, 'in
t,eir to' edge of skirt to %otto0 edge of %odice1
21 ;it, a 1/4$ sea0 allo#ance, se# t,e skirt to %odice
%eginning at one finis,ed edge aro&nd to t,e ot,er finis,ed
edge to finis,1 Be s&re t,at t,e 'leats are all laying do#n
in t,e correct orientation #it,in t,is se#n line1 +,is is
easiest to kee' an eye on if t,e right side of t,e skirts if
facing &' as yo& se#1
31 <ress t,e sea0 allo#ances fro0 t,e #aistline sea0 0ade
in Ste' 2 &' to#ards t,e %odices1 +,en &se a clear
0eas&ring de/ice to 0ark a line on t,e skirt t,at r&ns
'arallel to t,e #aistline sea0 and t,at is 1$ %elo# it1
(ontin&e 0arking all aro&nd t,e skirts and %e s&re yo& are
doing so #it, a 0arking tool t,at #ill disa''ear1
41 Ao# fold t,e skirt &' at t,e #aistline sea0 to#ards t,e
%odice, and t,en fold it %ack do#n again at t,e 0arked
line fro0 t,e 're/io&s ste'1 <ress t,ese folds caref&lly all
aro&nd, 0aking s&re yo&r 'leats retain t,eir 'ressed
creases a''ro'riately1
51 <in t,e ne#ly folded and 'ressed #aistline edge in 'lace
t,ro&g, all layers aro&nd t,e #aistline of t,e skirt as yo&
're'are it for a final to'stitc,ing1 @nce all is 'inned in
'lace to'stitc, t,ro&g, all layers a%o&t 1/2$ %elo# t,e to'
folded edge of t,e skirt1 +,is #ill encase t,e ra# edges of
t,e first 1/4$ #aistline sea01 2o& 0ay c,oose to s#itc, to
a ,ea/ier 0ac,ine needle for t,is ste'1 Cake s&re t,at t,e
'ressed 'leats stay folded in t,e correct 0anner in t,is
to'stitc,ing1
1 (li' o&t all t,e %asting sea0s fro0 t,e 'leat 're'arations
t,at are /isi%le fro0 t,e right or wrong side of t,e dress1
+,is #ill gi/e t,e skirt a little 0ore 0o/e0ent and s#ing1
!1 Ao# t,at all t,e 0ac,ine se#ing is co0'lete yo& can ,and
se# t,e %&ttons into 'lace1 +o do so, layer t,e rig,t side
of t,e dress %ack o/er t,e left side of t,e dress %ack and
align t,e #aistline sea0s and t,e center %ack lines 6&se t,e
Bodice Back 'attern 'iece for reference71 Cark t,ro&g,
t,e center of t,e %&tton ,oles to 0ake a dot on t,e Bodice
Back Left 'iece for t,e %&ttons1 Gand se# eac, into 'lace
centering t,e0 o/er t,e 0arks1 <ress #ell and en>oyI
3ttac, Skirt to Bodice
Ste' 1
Ste's 2 4 3
Ste' 4