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In order to improve flavor, promote growth, increase harvest, and
protect from insects, consider using companion plants with your
tomatoes. Planting basil within 18 inches of your tomato plant, for
example, improves the flavor of its fruit and repels many insect pests.
Carrots increase fruit production, because the tomato plant draws
nutrients from the carrots (which may grow smaller as a result). Basil
also makes a wonderful addition to tomato-based dishes. Try adding it
to your spaghetti sauce or bruschetta.
When planting in the ground, you can place a large coffee can (opened
on both ends) over the plant and push it halfway into the ground. When
watering, fill the can to the top with water, which will then descend
directly to the roots and allow the plant to flourish. Check for
"suckers" (branches that grow in the joint between the main stem and
other branches). There is a myth that suckers do not produce fruit; this
is not true, but they do use some of the plant's nutrients as they grow.
As a general rule, leaving suckers will produce more fruit, but smaller,
while pinching them off will cause the plant to grow larger fruit, but less
of it (because there will be fewer branches).
If the stem or roots of the plant are damaged -- for example your
toddler sits down on top of your 18 inch plant, snapping it near its base
-- you can often save the plant anyway, by burying much of its above-
ground stem and lower branches again, as you did to 75% of the plant
when you first placed it in the ground. The little hairs on the stem and
branches grow into roots. Since the plant is already in the ground, you
accomplish this by piling dirt up around the plant, so that it grows out of
a mound. Raised-earth growing is good for tomato plants at any time,
because they are more vulnerable to certain ailments, especially
fungus, when their hanging leaves and branches are in contact with the
earth.
If you do decide to sucker (cut back) your "indeterminate" (not shrub
type) tomato plants, consider not pinching off the whole sucker, but
letting it grow just long enough to produce some leaves, then pinching
off its tip. This will keep it from putting much effort into growing a long
branch, but lets the first few leaves increase the surface area available
to your plant for photosynthesis.
Suckers that have been pinched off can also be rooted quite easily in
moist soil to produce new tomato plants, but this practice does require
a larger sucker, and is somewhat impractical in climates with a short
growing season, since these plants will reach maturity later in the
season and have less time to yield.
If you have a fish tank, water your tomato plants with your waste fish
tank water. The natural based ammonia (Nh3) content in this water will
be absorbed directly as nitrogen that tomato plants love when in their
vegetative growth stage. Depending on what you feed your fish or what
Tips
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you use to balance the pH levels in your tank there is a fair amount of
phosphorus, potassium, calcium (lime stone, sea shells).
While you should avoid pouring too much coffee or fresh grounds into
the soil for acidity, the very caffeine which makes this risky is also
poisonous to slugs and other pests, which is why coffee plants evolved
it. Even more effective than killing these pests is to simply spray the
leaves of the plant with coffee. On the leaves, the caffeine is not
concentrated enough to harm the plant, but is still enough to repel
some pests.
Use manure tea for fertilizer. If you have access to well rotted manure,
you can make your own fertilizer. Put the manure in pantyhose or
cheese cloth. Place the "tea bag" in a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket
with water. Allow the "tea" to steep for a few days. Dilute the tea 1:1
with water and give your plants a drink...They'll love it. If you're near the
ocean, you can also use sea kelp for the same effect. Kelp is a good
fertilizer for folliar feeding; spraying directly on the leaves, because it
contains trace nutrients and hormones which are more easily absorbed
through leaf pores, instead of indirectly through the roots.
Cage or stake tomatoes at planting time this will insure no damage to
the young roots if staked or caged later.
You can get started earlier in the year by creating a temporary
greenhouse. Make or buy cylindrical tomato cages made of heavy duty
fence material. Use vinyl coated welded wire with a 3"x5" mesh, 5 ft.
tall and about 1'6" in diameter. Plant the seedling and sink the cage
into the dirt 4-6". Then take some sturdy, clear plastic (available in the
garden center) and tape it securely to the cage. Moisture is retained
and the plants are kept nice and warm. Remove the plastic when the
plants emerge from the top of the cage or begin to form fruit, whichever
happens first.
Show 9 more tips
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Never sucker (prune the new growths at the base of each fruiting
branch) determinate tomato plants. This kind of plant sets its fruit all at
once, and all you will accomplish is making your crop much smaller.
Seeds of tomato are pretty small and their planting depth should not be
too deep. A deep sowing results in less or no emergence and as a
result loss of seeds may be attained.It is therefore wise to cautiously
follow the planting depth of seeds and this has to be a 0.5-1.5cm.
When transplanting, be careful not to disturb the roots. If too many
roots are cut or damaged, the plant may die. See "tips" above for how
to fix root or stem damage.
To prevent mold or fungal diseases, water plants in the morning,
preferably by using drip irrigation or water furrows. If you spray the
entire plant(s) from above, you will increase the chances of mold/fungal
Warnings
Page 7of 8 How to Grow a Tomato Plant: 27 Steps - wikiHow
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spores infecting it/them. Exception; There is a method of fertilizing
plants called Folliar Feeding, where you spray the plant's leaves with
fertilizer containing trace elements, which will be directly absorbed.
This is good for the plant, though it should be done in the evening or
morning, when its pores are open.
Tomatoes need good weather and soil conditions to produce good fruit.
Only eat the fruit of a tomato plant, never anything else, as tomato
vines are in the highly poisonous Nightshade family.
As your plants flourish and grow, string, or cord tend to cut into the
branches. Instead, try using torn strips of cloth for your garden tying
needs, and especially when cinching up tomatoes. Cut-up strips of old
hose or stockings work great for tomato ties; they are stretchy and
gentle enough to tie vines well. One pair of 99-cent pantyhose in
1/2-inch strips will hold up rows of plants.
Tomato plants (several different varieties)
Composted manure. Available in 40-pound bags from nurseries,
garden centers, or hardware stores.
Trowel, small shovel or pickaxe.
Twine or cloth for tying.
Tomato stakes (bamboo, iron rebar, wood) or tomato cages.
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