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Pixie Handbag

********************************* Important Printing Information *****************************
When printing set scaling to none in your print properties. A 1x1 print test square is shown with the
pattern pieces. Print troubleshooting is available here:
http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2009/01/print-troubleshooting-for-pdf-sewing-patterns.html
**********************************************************************************************************
General Info/Tips
If youd like to add additional structure to the bag body you can add another layer of lining to the
WRONG side of the B pieces. The picture for step #7 shows where sew in interfacing has been
added to the wrong side of the bag body piece. For this pattern sew-in interfacing, muslin,
cotton batting or a lighter material is suggested for the additional lining. Using a heavier material
may make gathering difficult.

Cutting Info: Small and large versions of pieces A & B are
included. They are labeled. Piece C is the same for both
sizes. Pieces A & B need to be placed on a fold for cutting.
The edge to place on the fold is marked.

Supplies
yard focus fabric (exterior fabric)
yard lining/contrast top fabric
yard fusible interfacing
5 x 5 piece of scrap fabric to make flap backing
3.25 piece of elastic
Button for interior pocket
14-18mm magnetic snap
Decorative button for flap (optional)

Seam Allowance: Edge of standard presser foot unless otherwise indicated.
Topstitch: -
Approximate Finished Dimensions: Small - 10" (w) x 6.75" (h) x 3.5" deep x 18 strap(s)
Large - 11.5" (w) x 8.25" (h) x 3.5" deep x 18 strap(s)

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1. Cut Pieces
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Focus Fabric
Cut two piece B (small or large size)
Cut one piece C
Strap(s): Using ruler & marking pen draw and cut:
Single strap: one piece 19 high x 4 wide
Double strap: two pieces 19 high x 3 wide

Lining & Contrast Top Fabric:
Cut four piece A (small or large size)
Cut two piece B (small or large size)
Cut one piece C
Interior pocket: Using ruler & marking pen draw and cut: two pieces 5.5 wide x 5 high
(grain is not important)

Interfacing
Cut four piece A (small or large size)
Cut two piece B (small or large size)
Cut one piece C
Strap(s): Using ruler & marking pen draw and cut:
Single strap: one piece 19 high x 4 wide
Double strap: two pieces 19 high x 3 wide

Scrap Fabric
Cut one piece C from scrap fabric, sew-in interfacing, muslin, recycled fabric, etc. This
will piece will not show on the finished flap and will help stabilize the snap.

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2. Apply Interfacing
------------------------------------------------

a. Apply the interfacing pieces to the WRONG side of all four A pieces, the two focus
fabric B pieces, the focus fabric C piece and the strap piece(s). Follow the
interfacing manufacturer instructions regarding heat setting, press time, etc.

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3. Sew Darts
------------------------------------------------

a. Mark the darts on the WRONG side of all four B pieces.

b. Stitch the darts in place on all four B pieces. Clip extra fabric away on dart if desired.
Tip: Visit http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/04/making-great-da.html for tips
on making darts.







------------------------------------------------
4. Attach Pocket Pieces
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a. Fold the raw ends of the elastic piece together.

b. Hand sew through both ends
edges.

c. Wrap the thread around the loop bottom several times
and then insert needle throu
Dont snip the thread yet.
d. Find the center top of
and on the RIGHT side
with the attached loop about
top edge. The loop should face toward the
bottom of piece B as shown in the photo.
Hand stitch the loop to the fabric using a
few stitches to hold it firmly in place. Tie off
thread and snip.

e. On the RIGHT side of the fabric, m
center on both pocket
(either of the longer side
chalk or pin.

f. Mark the center bottom on
one piece A.

g. Lay one pocket piece
with the piece A with the center mark along the
bottom. Match the center
pocket piece and the A piece
along bottom edge of A

h. Sew across pocket attaching it to piece
photo).

i. Lay the second pocket
together with the lining
attached loop. Match the center
pocket piece to the loop on the lining piece B.
Pin in place along top edge of lining piece B.

j. Sew across pocket attachi
(see photo).
k. Fold the pocket piece attached to
downward and press the seam.

l. Fold the pocket piece attached to B up
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------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------
of the elastic piece together.
Hand sew through both ends about 1/8 from the raw
thread around the loop bottom several times
needle through the center of the stitches.
Dont snip the thread yet.

of one lining piece B
RIGHT side insert the needle
with the attached loop about 1/8 from the
The loop should face toward the
piece B as shown in the photo.
the loop to the fabric using a
it firmly in place. Tie off
On the RIGHT side of the fabric, mark the
pocket pieces along the top
sides) with a fabric pen,
bottom on the RIGHT side of
Lay one pocket piece RIGHT sides together
with the center mark along the
the center markings on the
pocket piece and the A piece. Pin in place
along bottom edge of A.
Sew across pocket attaching it to piece A (see
pocket piece RIGHT sides
lining piece B with the
Match the center marking of the
pocket piece to the loop on the lining piece B.
along top edge of lining piece B.
pocket attaching it to lining piece B

piece attached to the A piece
downward and press the seam.
pocket piece attached to B upward and press the seam.

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------------------------------------------------
5. Gather Fabric on B Pieces
------------------------------------------------

a. Using a basting stitch (very long stitch), sew across the top of one focus fabric B
piece from the edge. Leave a tail of thread 2+ on each end and do NOT back
stitch at either end.

b. Sew a second line of stitching close to the
first stitches, but still within the seam
allowance. Its ok if you go beyond the
seam allowance here and thereany of the
gathering stitches that show on the finished
bag can be removed with a seam ripper.

c. Repeat steps a & b for the remaining focus
fabric B piece and the lining fabric B piece
without the attached pocket.

d. Repeat steps a & b for the lining piece B
with the attached pocket, but sew the
gathering stitches only along both sides of
the pocket (i.e. do not sew gathering stitches across the part of the piece with the
attached pocket).

e. On the RIGHT side of the fabric mark the center on the along the bottom edge
(longer edge) of the three A pieces WITHOUT the pocket.

f. On the RIGHT side of the fabric mark the center top of the three B pieces WITHOUT
the pocket. Tip: Use a pin for the markings on
the B pieces. The gathers on these pieces may
make it difficult to see your center markings if
you use a pen.

g. On one lining piece B WITHOUT the pocket,
gather the fabric by grasping the top threads on
the RIGHT side of the fabric and gently pulling
the thread while pushing the fabric toward the
center of the piece. Try to gather fairly evenly,
but the gathers doesnt need to be tight or
perfect. Once fabric is gathered on one side,
go to other side and pull thread while pushing fabric towards the center.

h. Repeat for all remaining B pieces (gathering only along the sides of the pocket for
the pocket panel piece).




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6. Create Panels
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a. Sew lining panel with the pocket by taking the
A and B pieces with the attached pocket
pieces and laying them RIGHT sides together.

b. Match up the edges of the pocket pieces and
pin around the sides and bottom.

c. Match pieces A & B together along the sides
of the pocket and pin in place. You may need
to release or tighten some gathers to make
these pieces match up. Stitch along the
pinned edges of A and B and around the
pocket (see arrows in photo).

d. On the remaining A and B pieces match the
center of one A piece to the center of one B
piece so the fabrics are RIGHT sides together.
Insert one pin in the center.

e. Moving out from the center to one edge, pin A
to B. Release/tighten gathers if necessary.
Return to center and pin outward to opposite
edge.

f. Repeat for the remaining two sets of A and B
pieces.

g. Sew the A & B pieces together along pinned
edges.

h. Iron or finger press the seam where A & B meet. Top stitch along bottom edge of the
A pieces if desired.

------------------------------------------------
7. Make Bag Shells
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a. Lay the two focus fabric panels RIGHT sides
together. Line up the seams between the A & B
pieces on each side and pin in place. Line up
darts at the bottom of the two panels and pin in
place. Then pin the rest of the way around the
bag. Tip: The top seams are the most important
to line up since they will be the most obvious if
they are mismatched. Let the darts be off a bit if
necessary.


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b. Stitch around the outside edge attaching the focus fabric panels together to create
the focus fabric bag shell.

c. Clip curves.

d. Press around stitching and then press side seam open flat at the top on each side of
the bag shell.

e. Repeat steps a d to attach the lining panels together to create the lining bag shell.

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8. Construct Flap
------------------------------------------------
a. On the RIGHT side of the lining fabric piece C find the center along the bottom
curved edge. Measure up 1.25 from bottom edge and mark the snap placement.

b. Place the washer that came with your snap over
the snap placement mark and draw where prong
slits need to be clipped.

c. Place the scrap fabric piece C on the WRONG
side of the lining fabric piece C.

d. Snip the holes for snap prongs through both the
lining fabric and scrap fabric layers. Tip:
Additional info on snaps can be found here:
http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/07/h
ow-to-insert-m.html

e. From the RIGHT side of your lining piece C insert the prongs of the male snap half
through the slits.

f. On the WRONG side place the backing washer
over the prongs and then flatten them outward to
hold the snap in place. Tip: The prong edges are
often rough/sharp so use a small square of cotton
batting or scrap fabric between the fabric and snap
prongs to provide a buffer layer to prevent them
from snagging or wearing through your fabric.

g. Place focus fabric piece C and lining piece C with
attached snap RIGHT sides together and pin or
clip in place. Sew around curved edge leaving the
flat end open.

h. Clip curves and then trim away about half of the
seam allowance.

i. Iron stitches to shrink and tighten them and then turn flap right side out through the
open flat end.



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j. Press to neaten the edges and then top stitch around curved edge. Tip: Topstitch
with the lining side of the flap facing up to keep the snap from getting caught on your
machine plate.
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9. Attach Flap
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a. Center flap on backside of focus fabric bag
shell and pin in place. Bag shell and flap
fabrics should be RIGHT sides together.

b. Stitch flap in place from the top edge.

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10. Make Strap(s)
------------------------------------------------
Tip: Additional pictures of strap construction can be found here:
http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/06/easy-
double-str.html

a. Fold strap piece in half lengthwise with the
fabric WRONG sides together and press to
make a crease down the center.

b. Open up fabric and press one side in
toward the center crease.

c. Press opposite side in to meet the center
crease.

d. Fold fabric piece in half again to encase the
raw edges in the middle and pin or clip in place down the open edge.

e. Beginning on the open edge, top stitch down the length of the strap piece.

f. Top stitch down the opposite side (folded edge).

g. Repeat steps a- f to make second strap if
applicable.
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11. Attach Strap(s)
------------------------------------------------

a. Match the raw ends of the strap(s) to the top of
the focus fabric bag shell and pin or clip the
strap ends in place.
Single strap: center the strap along the side
seams.
Double straps: align the straps just outside the edges of the flap.


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The strap(s) should be resting along the bag shell and facing down towards the bottom
of the bag (see photo).

b. Stitch strap(s) in place from the top edge of the focus fabric bag shell.

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12. Attach Bag Shells Together
------------------------------------------------

a. Turn the focus fabric bag shell RIGHT side out.

b. Turn lining bag shell WRONG side out.

c. Place the focus fabric bag shell INSIDE the lining
bag shell, so the fabrics are now RIGHT sides
together. The straps are still facing downward
along the focus fabric bag shell and are
sandwiched between the bag shells. They are
NOT coming out the top.

d. Line up the side seams and pin in place around
the top.

e. Stitch around the top leaving a 3 opening on the front side (side without the flap) for
turning the bag RIGHT side out. Tip: The best way to leave an opening is to sew it
closed first. Back stitch where the opening begins, lengthen your stitch and sew to
the end of the opening. Back stitch again. Then press the seam open and remove
the long stitches and you will have a nice crease to follow for slip stitching the
opening closed. Pictures for this tip can be found here:
http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/11/how-to-slip-stitch-a-seam-closed.html

f. Turn the bag RIGHT side out through opening and tuck the lining shell down inside
focus fabric bag shell.
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13. Finishing
------------------------------------------------

a. Fold the flap down and mark where the snap
on the flap meets the bag body.

b. Snip slits through the focus fabric layer for the
female snap prongs.

c. Insert female half of snap as you did in step 8
for making the flap.

d. Slip stitch opening closed. Tip: To learn the
basic slip stitch go here:
http://keyka.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/11/
how-to-slip-stitch-a-seam-closed.html


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e. Top stitch around the top of bag.

f. Gently pull the lining out and fold the button loop upward and mark button placement.

g. Hand stitch button in place and then tuck the lining back down into place.

h. Clip any stray threads and remove any gathering stitches that may be showing on
the outside of the bag.

i. Youre done!

**********************************COPYRIGHT INFORMATION************************************
2009 Selling items made from this pattern is allowed under the following circumstances:

* Please credit Keyka Lou in all written item descriptions. For example when selling online
please include the following sentence or other similar wording in your item description: "This bag
was made using a Keyka Lou pattern.

* All items for sale must be handmade by you. Contracting with others to mass produce the
design is expressly prohibited.

Distribution of the pattern and instructions as your own creation is expressly prohibited.


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