PRODUCTIVITY IMPROVEMENT IN MTM

CUTTING SECTION USING LEAN CONCEPTS

-A case study at Silver Spark Apparel Limited

A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfillment
Of the requirement for the award of Degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By
MD JAWED AKHTAR

Under the Guidance of
MR. T.V.S.N. Murthy

Department of Fashion Technology
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad
May, 2014
i

ABSTRACT

The Made to Measure is a nascent business in India and catching the eyes of customers
rapidly. The company needed to increase its capacity in response to the increased
demand.The company has increased the number of MTM shops from 71 to 82 and has been
planning further to open more MTM outlets. In response to the increase in demand the
company needs to increase its production capacity also. But Cutting Department is the
bottleneck point. Hence, there is a need to increase the capacity of this section.
This dissertation provides comprehensive details of productivity improvement through NVA
elimination and one-piece flow implementation in MTM cutting department, Silver Spark
Apparel Limited, Doddaballapur. One-piece flow (also commonly referred to as continuous
flow manufacturing) is a technique used to manufacture components in a cellular
environment. The goals of one piece flow are: to make one part at a time correctly all the
time, to achieve this without unplanned interruptions, to achieve this without lengthy queue
times.
In this work existing layout was studied followed by method study and time study and then
new layout and improved working methods were proposed to enhance the capacity of the
department. In the process several non-value added activities were also eliminated. As in one
piece flow sequential movement of piece is necessary without wastage of transportation, a
conveyor system has been introduced which works like a pull system leading to increased
productivity and reduced lead time.

Key Words: Lean Manufacturing, One-piece Flow, Process Improvement, Standard Work in
Progress (SWIP).

ii

CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that this Project Report titled PRODUCTI VI TY I MPROVEMENT I N
MTM CUTTI NG SECTI ON USI NG LEAN CONCEPTS is based on my, MD J AWED
AKHTAR, original research work, conducted under the guidance of MR. T.V.S.N. Murthy
towards partial fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Bachelors Degree in Fashion
Technology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology,
Hyderabad.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed
has been duly acknowledged.



Signature of Author

Signature of Guide


iii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to express my eternal gratitude to my mentor, Mr. Varun Mishra, for his support
and encouragement throughout my graduation project. His mentorship was paramount in
providing a well-rounded experience consistent with my long-term career goals. I extend my
gratitude to him for finding time for listening to little problems and roadblocks that
unavoidably cropped up in course of project implementation.
My thanks also go to Mr. Nitesh Srivastava, MTM Assistant Manager, for giving an
opportunity to work in his department and for his support and guidance throughout the
project. I am also thankful to Mr. Lingappa, Cutting Supervisor, who provided first-hand
information and coordinated in the implementation. It will be grave injustice if I dont
mention the name of Mr. Pokhraj, Maintenance Head, who converted my ideas into reality.
I would like to thank my college mentor, Mr. T.V.S.N. Murthy, Assistant Professor, DFT,
NIFT, Hyderabad, for his valuable guidance, feedback and encouragement that he provided
throughout my project. His editorial skill helped a lot in the preparation of this dissertation.
His support and encouragement was in the end what made this dissertation possible.
I would like to thank the Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Hyderabad, especially
faculty members for their input, valuable discussion and accessibility. It was their continuous
guidance which helped me complete my project.
Finally and most importantly, the friendship of Miss Juhi Kumari, Miss Shweta Yadav and
Mr. Sanjeeb Kumar Naik is much appreciated and has led to many interesting and good
spirited discussion relating to the project. Their critical analysis of the various ideas led to
many successful implementations.
iv

Table of Contents
ABSTARCT.............i
CERTIFICATE.......ii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT....iii
GLOSSARY..x
Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................... 2
1.1 Project Objectives ...................................................................................................... 2
1.2 Problems Definition ................................................................................................... 2
1.3 Project Scope and Constraints .................................................................................... 3
1.4 Key Project Benefits................................................................................................... 3
1.5 Made To Measure An Introduction ......................................................................... 3
Chapter 2 LITERATURE REVIEW ......................................................................................... 8
2.1 Lean Manufacturing ................................................................................................... 8
2.1.1 What is Lean? ..................................................................................................... 8
2.1.2 Wastes in Lean Manufacturing ........................................................................... 9
2.1.3 Lean Approach .................................................................................................. 11
2.2 One-Piece Flow ........................................................................................................ 12
2.2.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................... 12
2.2.2 Why is using One-Piece Flow important in production? .................................. 12
2.3 Lead Time ................................................................................................................ 14
2.1 Method Study ........................................................................................................... 16
2.2 Time Study ............................................................................................................... 17
2.3 Standard Work In Progress (SWIP) ......................................................................... 18
v

Chapter 3 METHODOLOGY ................................................................................................. 20
Chapter 4 EXISTING SYSTEM ............................................................................................. 22
4.1 Process Flow of MTM Department .......................................................................... 22
4.2 Process Flow in Cutting Department ....................................................................... 22
4.3 SOP for Cutting Department .................................................................................... 24
Chapter 5 DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS ............................................................ 29
6.1 Cycle Time for Various Operations in Cutting Department .................................... 29
6.2 Existing Capacity Calculation .................................................................................. 31
6.3 Existing capacity summary ...................................................................................... 35
Chapter 6 IMPLEMENTED SYSTEM .................................................................................. 37
6.1 Caveat to One-Piece Flow System ........................................................................... 37
6.2 Conveyor System ..................................................................................................... 39
6.3 Non-Value Added (NVA) Activities Elimination .................................................... 46
6.3.1 Laying ............................................................................................................... 46
6.3.2 Block Cutting .................................................................................................... 49
6.3.3 Fusing Cutting ................................................................................................... 52
6.3.4 Ready Cutting ................................................................................................... 55
6.4 Sequential Movement (FIFO) .................................................................................. 59
6.4.1 A Track Sheet Holder at Pattern Cutting Machine ........................................... 60
6.4.2 Fabric Holding Stand in Store........................................................................... 60
6.5 Emergency Order Handling Flag System................................................................. 64
6.4 New Capacity Calculation ........................................................................................ 66
6.5 New capacity summary ............................................................................................ 69
Chapter 7 PROJECT COST .................................................................................................... 71
vi

8.1 Project Costing ......................................................................................................... 71
Chapter 8 RESULTS AND SAVINGS................................................................................... 74
Chapter 9 LIMITATIONS AND SCOPE OF FURTHER STUDY ....................................... 77
Chapter 10 CONCLUSION .................................................................................................... 79
APPENDICES AND ANNEXTURES81
vii

List of Figures
Figure 1.1 MTM Flow Diagram .............................................................................................. 5
Figure 2.1 Batch and queue flow vs One-piece flow .............................................................. 12
Figure 3.1: Methodology Diagram ......................................................................................... 20
Figure 4.1: Process Flow of MTM Department ...................................................................... 22
Figure 4.2: Process flow diagram of cutting department ........................................................ 22
Figure 4.3: Existing layout of cutting department .................................................................. 23
Figure 4.4: Cutting Department .............................................................................................. 23
Figure 6.1: Implemented Process Flow with Conveyor ......................................................... 39
Figure 6.2: Conveyor System ................................................................................................. 40
Figure 6.3: Conveyor Basket .................................................................................................. 41
Figure 6.4: MS square Pipe ..................................................................................................... 42
Figure 6.5: Bush ...................................................................................................................... 43
Figure 6.6: J-Hook .................................................................................................................. 43
Figure 6.7: GI Pipe .................................................................................................................. 44
Figure 6.8: Wheel.................................................................................................................... 44
Figure 6.9: Lining Cutting Process ......................................................................................... 47
Figure 6.10: Lining Stand ....................................................................................................... 47
Figure 6.11: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using hand needle ............................ 48
viii

Figure 6.12: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using Tag Gun ................................. 49
Figure 6.13: Previous Cutting Process .................................................................................... 50
Figure 6.14: Implemented Process .......................................................................................... 51
Figure 6.15: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram ............................................................. 52
Figure 6.16: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow ............................................................................ 52
Figure 6.17: New Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram ................................................................... 53
Figure 6.18: New Fusing Cutting Flow .................................................................................. 53
Figure 6.19: Pattern Stand....................................................................................................... 55
Figure 6.20: Ready Cutting ..................................................................................................... 56
Figure 6.21: Rotary Knife for Ready Cutting ......................................................................... 56
Figure 6.22: Pattern Movement Along With Trolley.............................................................. 57
Figure 6.23: Color Coding and a Color Coded Track sheet ................................................... 59
Figure 6.24: FIFO Stand at Pattern Cutter .............................................................................. 60
Figure 6.25: Cut Fabric for laying .......................................................................................... 61
Figure 6.26: Piled up fabrics falling and mixing .................................................................... 62
Figure 6.27: Stand for cut fabric in the store .......................................................................... 62
Figure 6.28: Emergency Order Handling System (Previous) ................................................. 64
Figure 6.29 Emergency Order Handling System (Implemented) ........................................... 65


ix

List of Tables
Table 2.1 One Piece Flow vs. Batch Flow System (Michal Marton) ..................................... 13
Table 2.2: Method Study Steps (Kanawaty, 1992) ................................................................. 16
Table 5.1: Cycle Time for Jacket ............................................................................................ 29
Table 5.2: Cycle Time for Trouser ......................................................................................... 30
Table 5.3: Existing Capacity Summary .................................................................................. 35
Table 6.1 New Capacity Summary ......................................................................................... 69


x

GLOSSARY
MTM: Made to measure (MTM) typically refers to the clothing that is sewn
from a standard size base pattern. The base pattern is altered according
to the measurement & fit required by the particular customer.
TRACK SHEET: The specification sheet which various informations like measurement
details, fabrics details, barcode for tracking, and color coding for day-
wise movement.
ORDER: An order refers to the customer booking for a particular garment or
garments. Generally an order has 1-5 suits 0r 1-10 trousers or a
combination of both. The order doesnt contain large quantities like in
mass production.
BLOCK CUTTING: The cutting done according to marker planning having 2 cm extra
allowances for shrinkage consideration after fusing and stripes and
check matching.
READY CUTTING: The block cut parts are re-cut using paper pattern matching stripes and
checks within a margin of error of 1 mm.


1







CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
2

CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Project Objectives
Primary Objective:
Productivity Improvement and Lead time reduction in MTM cutting department
by one piece flow implementation using Conveyor System
Secondary Objectives:
To increase productivity of MTM cutting department
To maintain continuous and streamlined flow of materials
Eliminate NVA
Reduce lead time
Improve order tracking
1.2 Problems Definition
Decreased productivity due to excessive NVA
Increased lead time due to extra WIP
Missing and mixing of parts
Difficulty in order tracking
No co-ordination between CAD and cutting department
No systematic movement of emergency orders

3

1.3 Project Scope and Constraints
The scope of this project includes analyzing the existing process, particularly identifying the
non-value added activities and thereby elimination of such activities. It also includes
maintaining a continuous flow and a standard work in progress (SWIP) which will require
sequential flow of materials.
Deliverables of the project includes improved productivity with increased visibility and
better order tracking.
The scope doesnt include the process re-engineering. Rather, its a continuous improvement.
The constraint of the project is limited working area.
1.4 Key Project Benefits
Considerable increase in productivity
Streamlined flow of materials
Reduced throughput time
Improved order tracking
Work Place visualization

1.5 Made To Measure An Introduction
Raymond Group Company provides a mass customization to customers of suits and trousers.
Made to measure typically refers to the clothing that is sewn from a standard size base
pattern. The base pattern is altered according to the measurement & fit required by the
particular customer. The concept behind made-to-measure is to provide the customer a
tailored fit garment with high quality like readymade garments, with the fabric, trims, style &
design according to the need of the customer. Since the made to measure garment is
manufactured by following the traditional method of measurement and industrial method of
manufacturing with much attention to minute detailing, its quality is like and even better than
the ready to wear garments.
4


The steps followed by made-to-measure can be summarized as:-
Taking measurements of the customer.
Getting the closest tryon garment and trying that on the garment.
Pinning the trial garment according to the need and fit of the customer
Taking the pictures to help the pattern master to understand the fit requirement
and to work on intuition.
Selection of the fabric, style by the customer
Conveying all the collected data to the manufacturing unit
Selecting the base size and doing the alteration according to the need of the
customer
Developing the customized garment

Made to measure differs from ready to wear garments
The garment is made according to the measurement of the customer, so it gives a
proper fit.
MTM garments are made in industrial way with advanced technology and thus
minimize human errors.
MTM gives the customer the advantage of choosing the fabric, style and trims.
MTM allows the customer to customize the garment from start to finish.
The final garment produced is of high quality.


5

Working Process Flow Of Made To Measure Garment

Figure 1.1 MTM Flow Diagram
Receive order from customer at the Retail Store
Style and Fabric selection by the customer
Measurement of the chest& waist to decide the try on Size and
Drop
Customer tries the Try on of the Drop & Size
Taking measurements and filling the same in the Shop Order
Form
Checking the fitting problems and pinning the Try Ons at the
places where alteration needs to be done
Taking photographs of the Fit & Pinning done for Alterations
Sending the measurement, Style details, photographs and Shop
Order Form to the Manufacturing Unit
CAD Department receives the Details
Cutting, Stitching, Sewing processes is done
Product Finishing & Checking
Delivery to the Customer
6

Terminology Frequently Used In Made To Measure (MTM Department)
Try ons- try ons are the jacket/ trouser/ waist coat which is of different sizes and styles. It is
the set from which a customer uses for the trial purpose. It is always kept in the retail store/
shop floor for the trial basis. For men, the try on set is of 5 different drops (0, 2, 4, 6, and 8)
from sizes.
Jacket/ trouser size- the sizes correspond to the half of the chest measurement (for jacket)
and half of the waist measurement (for trouser). As an example if the chest is of 100 cm the
size of the jacket is 50. And if the waist is 80cm the size of the trouser is 40.
Drop- it is defined as difference as the difference between half of chest measurement and
half of waist measurement.
.

100/2 = 50


88/2 = 44

102/2 = 51 so, here drop is (50-44 = 6)



For drop:
2: 44-64 - (11 sizes)
4: 44-64 - (11 sizes)
6: 44-64 - (11 sizes)
8: 42-64 - (12 sizes)
0: 44-70 - (14 sizes)

7







CHAPTER 2
LITERATURE REVIEW

8

CHAPTER 2
LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Lean Manufacturing
2.1.1 What is Lean?
Lean Manufacturing can be defined as "A systematic approach to identifying and eliminating
waste through continuous improvement by moving the product at the demand of the
customer." Taiichi Ohno once said that Lean Manufacturing is all about looking at the time
line from the moment the customer gives us an order to the point when we collect the cash.
And we are reducing that time line by removing the non value added wastes (Ohno, 1988).
Lean always focuses on identifying and eliminating waste and fully utilizing the activities
that add value to the final product. From the customer point of view, value is equivalent to
anything he is willing to pay for the product or service he receives. Formally value adding
activities can be defined as: activities that transform materials and information into products
and services the customer wants. On the other hand non-value adding activities can be
defined as: activities that consume resources, but do not directly contribute to product or
service. This non-value adding activities are the waste in Lean Manufacturing. Waste can be
generated due to poor layout (distance), long setup times, incapable processes, poor
maintenance practices, poor work methods, lack of training, large batches, ineffective
production planning/scheduling, lack of workplace organization etc.
By eliminating wastes in the overall process, through continuous improvements the products
lead time can be reduced remarkably. By reducing lead time organization can obtain
operational benefits (enhancement of productivity, reduction in work-in-process inventory,
improvement in quality, reduction of space utilization and better work place organization) as
well as administrative benefits (reduction in order processing errors, streamlining of
9

customer service functions so that customers are no longer placed on hold, reduction of
paperwork in office areas, reduction of labor turnover)
2.1.2 Wastes in Lean Manufacturing
The waste can be categorized into seven types which are commonly referred to as the Seven
wastes. Taiichi Ohno suggests that these account for up to 95% of all costs in non Lean
Manufacturing environments. These wastes are:
Overproduction Producing more than the customer demands. There are two types of
overproduction (Shingo, 1989):
1. Quantitative making more products than needed.
2. Early making products before needed.
Overproduction is highly costly to a manufacturing plant because it obstructs the
smooth flow of materials and degrades the quality and productivity. Overproduction
manufacturing is referred to as Just in Case whereas Lean Manufacturing is referred
to as Just in Time (McBride, 2003).The corresponding Lean principle is to
manufacture based upon a pull system, or producing products just as customers order
them. Anything produced beyond customer order ties up valuable labor and material
resources that might otherwise be used to respond to customer demand.
Ohno considered the fundamental waste to be overproduction, since it leads to other
wastes such as overstaffing, storage, and transportation costs because of excess
inventory.
Waiting Whenever goods are not being moving or being processed, the waste,
waiting occurs. Typically more than 99% of a products life cycle time in traditional
mass production is spent in idling. This includes waiting for material, labor,
information, equipment etc. Lean requires that all resources are provided on a just-in-
time (JIT) basis not too soon, not too late by linking processes together so that one
feeds directly into the next and can dramatically reduce waiting.
10

Transportation or conveyance Moving product between processes does not add
value to the product. Excessive movements and handlings can cause damages and can
lead to reduction in quality. Materials should be delivered to its point of use. Lean
requires the material be shipped directly from the vendor to the location in the
assembly line where it will be used. This is called Point-Of-Use-Storage (POUS).
Over processing or incorrect processing Taking unneeded steps to process the parts.
Some of the more common examples of this are reworking, inspecting, rechecking
etc. This is due to poor layout, poor tools and poor product design, causing
unnecessary motion and producing defects.
Excess Inventory Any type of inventory (raw material or in process or finish goods)
does not add value to the product and it should be eliminated or reduced. Excess
inventory uses valuable floor space and hides problems related to process
incapability. Excess inventory results in longer lead times, obsolescence, damaged
goods, transportation and storage costs, and delay.
Defects Defects can be either production defects or service errors. Having a defect
results a tremendous cost to organizations. In most of the organizations the total cost
of defects is often a significant percentage of total manufacturing cost. Repairing of
rework, replacement production and inspection means wasteful handling time, and
effort.
Excess Motion Any motion that employee has to perform which does not add value
the product is an unnecessary or excess motion. Unnecessary motion is caused by
poor workflow, poor layout, poor housekeeping, and inconsistent or undocumented
work methods.

11

2.1.3 Lean Approach
Lean organizations are highly customer focused, providing the highest quality, lowest cost
products in the shortest lead time possible. According to the book Lean Thinking by James
P. Womack and Daniel Jones, the Lean approach can be summarized in five principles
(Womack and Jones, 2003):
Specify what creates value from the customers perspective - Value should be
specified from the customer point of view not by the perspective of individual firms,
functions and departments. If the customer does not pay for an activity, it is a non-
value adding activity and should be eliminated.
Identify all the steps along the process chain This means identifying the value
stream. It can be used to identify activities where value is added to the product and
those do not.
Make those processes flow The value added product must flow continuously from
the start to finish without interruptions, detours, backflows, waiting, scrap and
stoppages.
Make only what is pulled by the customer The customer should pull the product
from the source as needed rather than process pushing the products onto the customer.
Strive for perfection After implementing above steps the team should be
continuously remove wastes as they are uncovered and pursue perfection through
continuous improvement.
Lean uses practically proven tools and techniques to systematically implement these Lean
principles. If these are correctly applied, it will bring improvements to quality, cost and
delivery of the final product. Those tools help in implementing, monitoring, and evaluating
Lean efforts and its results. On the other hand if these were used without proper
understanding, it can spoil Lean efforts in ones organization.

12

2.2 One-Piece Flow
2.2.1 Introduction
One-piece flow (also commonly referred to as continuous flow manufacturing) is a technique
used to manufacture components in a cellular environment. The cell is an area where
everything that is needed to process the part is within easy reach, and no part is allowed to go
to the next operation until the previous operation has been completed. The goals of one piece
flow are: to make one part at a time correctly all the time, to achieve this without unplanned
interruptions, and to achieve this without lengthy queue times.
One-piece flow describes the sequence of product or of transactional activities through a
process one unit at a time. In contrast, batch processing creates a large number of products or
works on a large number of transactions at one time sending them together as a group
through each operational step. In one-piece flow, focus is on the product or on the
transactional process, rather than on the waiting, transporting, and storage. One-piece flow
methods need short changeover times and are conducive to a pull system.
2.2.2 Why is using One-Piece Flow important in production?
The following illustration shows the impact of batch size reduction when comparing batch
and one-piece flow.

Figure 2.1 Batch and queue flow vsOne-piece flow
13

The difference between the two systems is conspicuous through the depicted diagram
(Figure.1 and Figure.2).First; one-piece flow system saved 18 minutes for the same batch of
10 pieces. This shows dramatic improvement in production capacity.
Second, first piece was in processed only 3minutes. Unlike batch system, one piece flow
allows operator to check a part immediately in each process (A, B and C). If there is any
quality issues it will be detected too late and many parts will be damaged..
Impacts One Piece Flow Batch System
Operations
Staff
Work as a team in a system. Respond
immediately to errors picked up by
downstream colleagues. High morale.
Work to own teams service
level.
Tend not to proactively
collaborate with other teams.
Do not see impact of their
errors.
Staff
Productivity
Superior- each part of the system pulls
work to them and avoids backlogs being
created.
High visibility of staffs too busy or idle.
Hostage to build up of backlog
when demand or supply
factors change.
Large value of non-value
added work.
Leadership
time and effort
Team takes ownership of work and sticks
to agreed rules of working.
Any issues affecting system performance
are immediately obvious
Constant supervision of 1005
of staff.
Distracted by dealing with
escalations, hidden in the
backlog.
Customers Cycle time is very quick and predictable.
Errors picked up early and adjustments
made.
Cycle time is too long or too
variable.
Errors are slow to fix.
Business
Partners
Respond Immediately to rework caused
up by sales and feedback provided.
Major cause of rework.


Table 2.1 One Piece Flow vs. Batch Flow System(Michal Marton)
14

2.3 Lead Time
In todays unpredictable economic environment, retailers and consumer product companies
(brands) may be challenged to deliver trend-right products in the right quantities to the right
locations. This challenge is often exacerbated by long lead times.
Performance goal may vary from one cell or factory to the next. For some, quality is the
foremost measure of performance. For others, delivery speed and customer response
dominates. For others, labor efficiency is foremost. Where equipment is expensive and
capital scarce, equipment utilization is the main focus.For this company faster delivery with
superior quality of the products is the main goal.
Silver et al. (Silver, 1998)defined, lead time as the time that elapses between the placement
of an order and the receipt of the order into inventory, lead time may influence customer
service and impact inventory costs. As the Japanese example of just-in-time-production has
shown, consequently reducing lead times may increase productivity and improve the
competitive position of the company.
The Japanese experience of using Just-In-Time (JIT) production shows that there are
advantages and benefits associated with their efforts to control lead time. Japanese
manufacturers are known for their strong and lasting partnership with their suppliers. This
helps reduce lead time and is one of the sources of success of their JIT philosophy.
Before 1980, customers tolerated long lead times which enabled producers to minimize
product cost by using economical batch sizes. Later, when customers began to demand
shorter lead times, they were able to get them from competitors. This is when the problem
arose and companies started to look for changes to be more competitive. In an attempt to
reduce lead time, businesses and organizations found that in reality 90% of the existing
activities are non-essential and could be eliminated. As soon as manufacturers focused on
processes, they found waste associated with changeovers, quality defects, process control,
factory layout, and machine down time. So they tried to find ways to reduce or eliminate
waste. Harrington (Harrington, 1996)proposes by eliminating the non-value adding activities
from the processes and streamlining the information flow significant optimization results can
be realized. In the 1960s and 70s, manufacturers competed on the basis of cost efficiency. In
15

the 1980s, quality was the rage and Zero Defects and Six Sigma came into vogue. Cost and
quality are still crucial to world-class operations, but today, the focus is squarely on speed.
Nearly all manufacturers today are under pressure from customers to cut lead times. And
rapid-response manufacturing pays big dividends.

16

2.1 Method Study
Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of ways of doing things in
order to make improvements. (Kanawaty, 1992).
The basic approach to method study consists of the following eight steps:
1 SELECT the work to be studied and define its boundaries.
2 RECORD
the relevant facts about the job by direct observation and collect
such additional data as may be needed from appropriate sources.
3 EXAMINE
the way the job is being performed and challenge its purpose, place,
sequence and method of performance.
4DEVELOP
The most practical, economic and effective method, drawing on the
contributions of those concerned.
5 EVALUATE
Different alternatives to developing a new improved method
comparing the cost-effectiveness of the selected new method with
the current method of performance.
6 DEFINE
the new method, as a result, in a clear manner and present it to
those concerned, i.e. management, supervisors and workers.
7 INSTALL
the new method as a standard practice and train the persons
involved in applying it.
8 MAINTAIN
the new method and introduce control procedures to prevent a
drifting back to the previous method of work.

Table 2.2: Method Study Steps(Kanawaty, 1992)

17

2.2 Time Study
Work measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish the time for a
qualified worker to carry out a task at a defined rate of working (Kanawaty, 1992).
Method study is the principal technique for reducing the work involved, primarily by
eliminating unnecessary movement on the part of material or operatives and by substituting
good methods for poor ones. Work measurement is concerned with investigating, reducing
and subsequently eliminating ineffective time, that is time during which no effective work is
being performed, whatever the cause.
Work measurement, as the name suggests, provides management with a means of measuring
the time taken in the performance of an operation or series of operations in such a way that
ineffective time is shown up and can be separated from effective time. Work measurement
has another role to play. Not only can it reveal the existence of ineffective time; it can also be
used to set standard times for carrying out the work, so that, if any ineffective time does
creep in later, it will immediately be shown up as an excess over the standard time and will
thus be brought to the attention of management.
Time study is a work measurement technique for recording the times of performing a certain
specific job or its elements carried out under specified conditions, and for analyzing the data
so as to obtain the time necessary for an operator to carry it out at a defined rate of
performance (Kanawaty, 1992).

18

2.3 Standard Work In Progress (SWIP)
SWIP is the minimum necessary in process inventory (work in process or WIP) to maintain
Standard Work; No more, no less.
SWIP or Standardized Work in Progress is the minimum necessary process inventory to
maintain one-piece flow.
Need to Control WIP:
Two major cost areas can be reduced if WIP is controlled.
1. Investment in inventory: Inventory is the money invested in raw materials. If the
inventory is not moved through the plant quickly then it affects cash flow directly.
2. Ability to reduce the production cycle
By having low inventory between operations, garments usually have less waiting
time and go through the production cycle in less time. Large inventory levels
between the operations keep the goods waiting longer to be processed. This
increases the overall through put time.
Low through put time permits better co-ordination between sales and production.
Low cycle times give manufacturers the ability to handle multiple styles.
Clients/buyers are looking for the factories that can meet production schedules,
that can handle multiple styles, and that can handle low inventories which will
reduce their investment.
The factories that work with low WIP only will be able to sustain in the present
market.
19







CHAPTER 3
METHODOLOGY

20

CHAPTER 3
METHODOLOGY
The steps followed in the research project are given below:
Step 1: Theoretical construction of the thesis
Step 2: Preparation of questionnaires and database sheet based on primary observation
Step 3: Data collection and analysis
Step 4: Problem findings and suggest improvement scope.
Step 5: System Implementation
Step 6: System Testing and thereby further improvements










Figure 3.1: Methodology Diagram
Prepare Database Sheet

Gather Theoretical Knowledge

Conduct Primary Observation

Prepare Questionnaire

Interview with management & 0perators

Collect company Data

Conduct Method Study and Time Study

Collect Field Data

Data Analysis and Documentation

Problems finding & suggest improvement
scope

System Implementation

System Testing & Improvement

21







CHAPTER 4
EXISTING SYSTEM


22

CHAPTER 4
EXISTINGSYSTEM
4.1 Process Flow of MTM Department








Figure 4.1: Process Flow of MTM Department
4.2 Process Flow in Cutting Department






Figure 4.2: Process flow diagram of cutting department
Order Received in CAD Order Verification Pattern Alteration
Fabric Store Track Sheet Generation Marker Planning
Block Cutting Ready Cutting Sewing
Dispatch Finishing
Fabric receiving from
store
Lining cutting Fabric Laying
Fusing Fusing Cutting Block Cutting By Machine
Ready Cutting Checking Loading
23


Figure 4.3: Existing layout of cutting department

Figure 4.4: Cutting Department
24

4.3 SOP for Cutting Department
Activity Purpose/Objective
Procedure
Performed By
Person
Responsible
Reports/
Documentatio
ns
Fabric Cutting
in store
To issue for cutting
Check Track sheet for fabric Code and
Consumption
Before cutting cross-check swatch with
fabric code
Place the fabric with track sheet on the table
in serial order
Tick in the order tracking list against the
serial number
Store Boy(01)
Team
Leader(Mrs.
Putthama)
Order Tracking
Checklist
Lining Cutting
For Feeding into
cutting m/c
Look the lining code in Track sheet and
match shade from lining swatch board.
Bring the roll on the table and Cut as per
indicated quantity.
Place the roll back in the rack
Operator(01)
Team
Leader(Mrs.
Putthama)
-
Laying
For Feeding into
cutting m/c
Check for lining marker- half width or full
width.
Lay Shell and lining
Place fusing block on shell for JKT & Suit.
Tick in the order tracking list against the
serial number
Operators(02)
Team
Leader(Mrs.
Putthama)
Order Tracking
Checklist
25

Block Cutting
Cutting lay into
panels
Look for selvedge alignment
Match marker plan with track sheet
Cut
Data feeding to be done without stopping
m/c while cutting is in process.
Tick in the order tracking list against the
serial number

Operators(02)
Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Order Tracking
Checklist
Marking
To identify right and
wrong side
Mark using pencil on wrong sides
Place the cut panels in basket- small parts
on one side & big parts on other side.
Keep the TRS part in yellow basket and
JKT & W.C. in blue basket and pass to next
station.
Helpers(02)
Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Order Tracking
Checklist
Fusing Cutting
Front and Lapel
To cut exactly
according to front and
lapel size
Take the rolls out from the table and cut a
block
Place the front and lapel shell fabrics to use
as a pattern and cut
Re-cut 1 cm all around to eliminate seam
allowances on front and lapel
Operator(01)
Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
-
Fusing M/C
(Jacket)
To provide
stiffness/good drape
Place all the fusing parts appropriately and
pass through the machine.
Tick in the order tracking list against the
serial number
Operator(01)
Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Order Tracking
Checklist
Place the fused panels in basket- small parts Helper(01) Team Order Tracking
26

on one side & big parts on other side. Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Checklist
Fusing M/C
(Trouser)
To provide stiffness
Place all the fusing parts appropriately and
pass through the machine.
Tick in the order tracking list against the
serial number

Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Order Tracking
Checklist
Ready
Cutting(JKT)
Checks matching and
shrinkage -----
Look for the order no and serial no.
Pick up the pattern from the stand after
carefully matching the order no & serial no.
Cut using pattern
Put back all the parts in the basket.
Tick in the order tracking list against the
serial number
Operator(02)
Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Order Tracking
Checklist
Ready
Cutting(TRS)
Checks matching and
shrinkage -----
Look for the order no and serial no.
Pick up the pattern for checked and striped
fabric from the stand after carefully
matching the order no & serial no.
Cut using pattern
Bundle all the parts and pass to next station.
Tick in the order tracking list against the
serial number
Operator(01)
Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Order Tracking
Checklist
Tagging &
Pocketing
To identify parts and
attach trims
Attach the pocketing material
Cut the labels and tag to the parts.
Paste swatch to the order tracking list.
Pass for checking
Helper(01)
Team
Leader(Mr.
Kemp Raj)
Order Tracking
Checklist With
Swatch
27

Checking(TRS) Checking for quality
Check number of parts
Measurement check against the track sheet
Check Notch Marks
Look for other fabric defects, if any
Update in V-stitch
Operator(01)
Cutting
Executive
Order Tracking
Checklist
Checking(JKT) Checking for quality
Check number of parts(for avoiding any
miss)
Measurement check against the track sheet
Check Notch Marks
Look for other fabric defects, if any
Update in V-stitch
Update defects, if any
Operator(01)
Cutting
Executive
Order Tracking
Checklist
And quality
Report

28








CHAPTER 5
DATA COLLECTION
AND ANALYSIS


29

CHAPTER 5
DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS
6.1 Cycle Time for Various Operations in Cutting Department
Operations
No of
Operato
rs
Operator
Rating
Cycle
Time
(Sec)
VA
(Sec)
NVA
(Sec)
Basic
Time(Cycle
time*Rating)
(Sec)
SAM=
1.15*Basic
Time(15%
Allowance)
(Min)
Lining
Cutting(2P
1
)
1 100% 166 77.8 88.2 166 3.18
Laying(2P) 2 100% 356.17 281.01 75.16 356.17 6.83
Block Cutting
m/c 1(2P)
1 90% 701.67 557 144 631.50 12.10
Block Cutting
m/c 2(2P)
1 100% 706.88 580.02 126.86 706.88 13.55
Fusing Cutting 1 75% 399.5 176.56 222.94 299.63 5.74
Fusing 1 90% 245 245 0 220.5 4.23
R C(Solid)
4
75% 1114 294.89 795.29 835.5 16.02
R C (Checks) 75% 1368 307.2 1060.8 1026 19.67
R C(Stripes) 75% 1154.2 230.2 924 865.65 16.59
Checking 1 90% 494.8 494.8 0 445.32 8.54
Table 5.1: Cycle Time for Jacket

1
The reading is for 2-piece suit till bundling because the operations at these work stations cant be separated.
30

Operations
No of
Operators
Operators
Rating
Cycle
Time
(Sec)
VA
(Sec)
NVA
(Sec)
Basic
Time(Cycle
time*Rating)
(Sec)
SAM=
1.15*Basic
Time(15%
Allowance
)
(Min)
Lining Cutting 1
2
100% 14.4 14.4 0 14.4 0.28
Laying 2* 100% 132.93 105.76 27.17 132.93 2.55
Block Cutting
m/c 1
1* 90% 284.8 199.8 85 256.32 4.91
Block Cutting
m/c 2
1* 100% 254.22 189.36 64.86 254.22 4.87
Fusing 1 75% 185.4 89.1 96.3 139.05 2.67
Ready
Cutting(Solid)
2
100% 130.6 - - 130.6 2.51
Ready
Cutting(Checks)
75% 680 - - 510 9.77
Ready
Cutting(Stripes)
75% 455.2 - - 341.4 6.55
Pocket Attach&
Label Tagging
1 100% 294.49 - - 294.49 4.79
Checking(Solid
& Stripe)
2
100% 116.2 - - 116.2 2.22
Checking
(Checks)
100% 223 - - 223 4.27

Table 5.2: Cycle Time for Trouser


2
,* - Already Counted In Jacket Cycle Time; Same operator for both jacket and trouser
31

6.2 Existing Capacity Calculation
Lining Cutting
Man Hour= 8
SAM for 2-piece suit = 3.18 min
SAM for trouser = 0.28 min
Let the ratio of suit to trouser be 1:2 (From output report Appendix III)
So, average time = (1*3.18 + 2*0.28)/ (1+2) = 1.25 min
So, Capacity = 480 /1.25 = 384 i.e. 128suits and256 trousers
Laying
Man Hour= 8 x 2= 16hr.
SAM for 2-piece suit = 6.83 min
SAM for trouser = 2.55 min
Let the ratio of suit to trouser be 1:2 (From output report Appendix III)
So, average time = (1*6.83 + 2*2.55)/ (1+2) = 3.98 min
So, Capacity = (480*2) /3.98 = 241 i.e. 80 suits and 161 trousers
Block Cutting
Machine 1
Machine Hours = 8 * 0.85 = 6.8 hour (At 85% efficiency)
SAM for 2-piece suit = 12.10 min
SAM for trouser = 4.91 min
32

Let the ratio of suit to trouser be 1:1
3
(From output report Appendix III)
So, average time = (1*12.10 +1 *4.91)/ (1+1) = 8.5 min
So, Capacity = 408 /8.5 = 48 i.e. 24 suits and 24 trousers
Machine 2
Machine Hours = 8 * 0.95 = 7.6 hour (At 95% efficiency)
SAM for 2-piece suit = 13.55 min
SAM for trouser = 4.87 min
Let the ratio of suit to trouser be 1:1 (From output report Appendix 3)
So, average time = (1*13.55 +1 *4.87)/ (1+1) = 9.21 min
So, Capacity = 456 /9.21 = 50 i.e. 25 suits and 25 trousers
Hence, Total capacity of block cutting should have been = 49 suits and 49 trousers orders.
But due to excessive NVA and unplanned trims cutting, there is momentum breakdown and
consequently the efficiency is 80%.
Hence actual capacity = 39 Suits and 40 trousers orders.
Fusing Cutting (Jacket)
Man Hour= 8 hrs.
SAM= 5.74 min
So, Capacity = 480 /5.74 =83 jackets
Fusing Machine (Jacket)
Machine Hours = 8 hour (At100% efficiency)
SAM = 4.23 min

3
Ratio considered as 1:1 because even if trouser has multiple quantities, it is cut in a single marker.
33

Capacity = 480/4.23= 113 jackets

Fusing Machine (Trouser)
Machine Hours = 8 hour (At100% efficiency)
SAM = 2.67 min
Capacity = 480/2.67= 180 trouser
Ready Cutting (Jackets)

Man Hours = 8 * 4 = 32 hrs.
SAM for JacketRC (solid) = 16.02 min
SAM for JacketRC (stripe) = 16.59 min
SAM for Jacket RC (checks) = 19.67 min
Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:3:2 (50%:30%:20%) (From output
reportAppendix III)
So, average time = (5*16.02 +3 *16.59 + 2*19.67)/ (5+3+2) = 16.92 min
So, Capacity = (480*4) /16.92 = 113 i.e. 57 solid, 34 stripe and 22 checked
But due to excessive NVA, there is momentum breakdown and consequently the efficiency is
50%.
And therefore actual output = 57 i.e. 29 solid, 17 stripe and 11 checked.

Ready Cutting (trousers)

Man Hours = 8 hrs.
SAM for JacketRC (solid) =2.51min
SAM for JacketRC (stripe) = 6.55 min
SAM for Jacket RC (checks) = 9.77 min
34

Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:40%:10%) (From output report
Appendix 3)
So, average time = (5*2.51 +4 *6.55 + 1*9.77)/ (5+4+1) = 4.85 min
So, Capacity = 480 /4.58 = 105i.e. 53 solid, 42 stripe and 10 checked

35

Checking (Jackets)

Man Hours = 8
SAM =8.54 min
So, Capacity = 480 /8.54 = 56

Checking (Trousers)

Man Hours = 8
SAM forTrouserChecking (solid& stripe) =2.23 min
SAM for Jacket Checking (checks) = 4.27 min
Let the ratio of solid& stripe, and checks be9:1 (90%:10%) (From output report Appendix
III)
So, average time = (9*2.23 + 1*4.27)/ (9+1) = 2.434 min
So, Capacity = 480 /2.434 =197 i.e. 177 solid and stripe, and 20 checked
6.3 Existing capacity summary
Operations No Of Operators Jackets Trousers
Lining 1 128 256 + 128
Laying 2 80 161 + 80
Block Cutting 2 39 40 + 39
Fusing Cutting 1 83
Fusing M/C 2 113 180
Ready Cutting 5 57(29,17,11) 105(53,42,10)
Checking 2 56 197(177,20)

Table 5.3: Existing Capacity Summary

36







CHAPTER 6
IMPLEMENTED SYSTEM



37

CHAPTER 6
IMPLEMENTED SYSTEM
After careful study and analysis, it was been found that there were considerable non-value
added activities at almost each work stations. Further throughput time for the cutting
department was also high which led to increase in lead-time. In order to eliminate theses
NVA and reduce the lead time, various changes like process change, layout modification and
one piece flow implementationwere done. They have been explained in detailed in the
successive sections.
6.1 Caveat to One-Piece Flow System
The one-piece flow is implementation must be preceded by a caveat on the factors which
often leads to its failure. These factors (Miller, 2007) along with the solutions have been
listed below:
a. Unreliable equipment that may break down, causing downstream processes to
run out of parts: This particular problem is encountered on block cutting machines.
The machine downtime due to machine break down is very high (14%; source:
Appendix II). These machines require preventive maintenance preceded by a
complete overhauling. The breakdown report for one month has been complied and
sent to top management for consideration.
b. People will resist this change: Believing in the system is essential for its success.
People will have to be motivated. This is what a leader does. The benefits of the
system should be effectively conveyed to the operators so that their heart and mind is
for the system. Workers were shown motivational video on continuous flow to
convey the benefits. The result was surprising- they were very receptive of the
change.
38

c. People are not cross trained to do more than one or two limited tasks: For one
piece flow its essential that operators are cross trained for countering the problem
arising from the absenteeism of a particular operator or operators.
Limiting people's potential to learn and develop to their fullest never benefits a
company. Training the people for cross jobs and taking "boring" out of work by
giving people variety boost their morale. This is what we did here to tackle the
problems arising out of absenteeism. Workers were cross trained on all the critical
work stations especially cutters and ready cutting.
d. There is too much distance between processes to move one at a time: This
particular problem is one of the major cause of one the seven wastes of the lean
manufacturing i.e. transportation. In cutting section bundles have to be carried to
successive stations manually. In order to eliminate this conveyor system has been
suggested which is explained in next section 6.2.
e. Process cycle times are unstable or variable, creating imbalance between
workers. The first step was to examine the process cycle times through direct process
observation, breaking the work into smaller work elements and segregating VA &
NVA. The detailed steps of NVA elimination has been explained in section 6.3.
Since, in MTM style varies and also the quantity in an order varies. Sometimes re-
cutting is also done. The chronic variation is still above the 5% to 10% range. It's
unpredictable variation. To counter this problem, a standard WIP as buffer needs to
be defined. If we maintain a SWIP the successive stations will not be affected due to
shortage and we will also be able to avoid excess WIP. Thats why a SWIP of 5
orders per work station is being maintained.
f. Occasional work like Trims cutting that interrupts the process: Through the data
analysis, it has been found that cutter machine is the bottleneck. Unplanned cutting of
trims aggravates the problem. Further, one piece flow will not work as successive will
run out of piece.
The solution for this is to plan the cutting of each and every trim and cut them in
overtime or on Sunday. The planning should be done in a manner that inventory lasts
at least for a fortnight. Such a plan has been shown in appendix 4.
39

6.2 Conveyor System
There is too much distance between processes to move one at a time in the department. This
particular problem is one of the major cause of one the seven wastes of the lean
manufacturing i.e. transportation. In cutting section bundles have to be carried to successive
stations manually. In order to eliminate manual transportation and minimize material
handling a flexible conveyor system has been implemented.

Figure 6.1: Implemented Process Flow with Conveyor


28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Checking
RC JKT
RC TRS
Tagging
Pocketing
Checking
Pattern
Pattern
Band Knife
Fusing M/C
F
u
s
i
n
g

M
/
C
Trims Laying
Fusing Cutting
Block Cutting
Block Cutting Bundling
Bundling
Laying
Laying
L
i
n
i
n
g

S
t
a
n
d
G
A
T
E
S
t
a
i
r
Loading
Loadin
Fabric
From Store
P
a
t
t
e
r
n
D
u
s
t

B
i
n
L
i
n
i
n
g

S
t
a
n
d
RC TRS RC JKT
Unit:
One Tile = 2' x 2'
13"
15"
13"
8"
40

Technically the system consists of overhead conveyors having two lines- one for the trousers
and one for the jackets. The parts are carried in a basket as shown in figure 10.Though the
system is not automated but it has been crafted judiciously using wheels for free and smooth
movement. A simple push carries the basket to next work station.

Figure 6.2: Conveyor System
41


Figure 6.3: Conveyor Basket
This system transports all the pieces of the product through the manufacturing process. The
basket carries all pieces of one entire garment through different steps of production.
Operations are performed at individual work stations. The end result is a cost-efficient
product, processed from pieces to completion. A conveyor system is often the lifeline to a
companys ability to effectively move its product in a timely fashion.


42

Components of the conveyer system
a) MS square Pipe Structural Support

Figure 6.4: MS square Pipe
The mild steel square pipe has been used as a structural support. The vertical pipe
dimension is 2 x 2 whereas the horizontal pipes used are of dimensions 1.5 x 1.5.





43

b) Bush and J Hook

Figure 6.5: Bush

Figure 6.6: J-Hook
In order to suspend the GI rod (conveyor pipe), bush and J-hooks have been used so
that the system remains flexible and can be expanded anytime.
44

c) GI Pipe

Figure 6.7: GI Pipe
This is the conveyor pipe on which baskets move.
d) Wheel

Figure 6.8: Wheel
The baskets move on wheels which have bearings inside them so that the flow is very
smooth.
45

Number of Baskets Calculation
As discussed in section 6.1, the SWIP for jacket considered is 5 per work station. There are 4
work stations for jackets that the conveyor covers viz. cutting, fusing, ready cutting and
checking.
Hence, number baskets for jacket = 4* 5 = 20
The SWIP for trouser is 10. There are 3 work stations for jackets that the conveyor covers
viz. cutting, fusing, waist and ready cutting.
Hence, number baskets for jacket = 3* 10 = 30
Hence, total number of baskets required is 50.



46


6.3 Non-Value Added (NVA) Activities Elimination
In order to maintain one-piece flow system NVA elimination is must so that the pitch time is
balanced. The successive sections describe the various non-value added activities elimination
technique which has been implemented.
6.3.1 Laying
a) Lining stand near work stations
For cutting body lining, sleeve lining and knee lining a separate worker was required
because the rolls of different shades were in the store and cutting them took almost 3
minutes. To minimize this transportation wastage a lining stand was made and placed
near the laying table. The different steps involved were as follow:


Place back thge roll
Cut the specified length
Go to Fabric store, pick the roll and bring on the table.
Look for reference number in the tracksheet
47


Figure 6.9: Lining Cutting Process

Figure 6.10: Lining Stand
48

Result:The time taken for cutting a body lining came down to just 30 second from
130 second (Appendix 1sheet 1). Further, there is no need for an extra worker
especially for this job. Hence, there is not only time saving but manpower saving
also.
b) Tacking Gun for checked and striped fabric
In order to match checks and stripe during laying hand needle is used to tuck the
fabrics in place. This is a time consuming process. So, a tag gun has been introduced
to do the tucking.

Figure 6.11: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using hand needle








49


Figure 6.12: Tucking for Checks and stripes matching using Tag Gun
Result: The hand stitching took 2-3 minutes depending on fineness of stripes and
checks whereas the tag gun takes approximately one minute.
6.3.2 Block Cutting
During the data collection it was found that block cutting is the bottleneck point (See Table
6). The study revealed the following causes for the problem:
External Factor
Lack of Co-ordination between CAD and Cutting Department- There was lack of
synchronization between marker planning and cutting as there was no sequencing
of orders. Most often laying was done and fed to cutter machine but there was no
marker file. This problem was solved by one piece flow implementation which
works on FIFO (First in first out) principle.
Internal Factors
Machine
o Improper preventive maintenance: The machine breakdown rate is very high
resulting in high machine downtime. (Appendix II). So, a complete
50

overhauling was done. Though this reduced the breakdown but its still not
satisfactory. So, breakdown report for a month has been sent to the top
management for machine replacement consideration.
Process
o No Continuous feeding: Through the time study using element breakdown it
was found that activities like unrolling of lay,order sheet searching, feeding
and aligning took considerable time and they dont add any value.


Figure 6.13: Previous Cutting Process
Unrolling
of folded
lay
Track sheet
search
Feeding Aligning
51


Figure 6.14: Implemented Process
So, in order to eliminate the non-value added activities, continuous feeding is being done. A
stand was fixed to the laying table and the paper roll was mounted on it using a pipe. Now,
the machine automatically draws the fabric lay in.
Result:



Not only this continuous feeding also led to reduction in laying time because paper rolling
and unrolling is no longer required.
Current Capacity
Suits- 40 (orders)
Trousers- 53 orders or 76 pieces
Improved Capacity
Suits- 60 (orders)
Trousers- 76 orders or 109 piece

52

6.3.3 Fusing Cutting
For small parts fusing there is no need for size-wise cutting but larger parts like front and
lapels require cutting exactly to the shell fabric. Hence, fusing is cut manually. The process
flow is as follow:

Figure 6.15: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram

Figure 6.16: Previous Fusing Cutting Flow
Roll Pick up
Bloack Cutting
and putting the
roll back
Fusing Cutting
using the shell
fabric as a pattern
Re-cutting to
remove the seam
allowances
53

The manual handling took too much time. To minimize the time, marker planning was done
in such a manner so that the front position is fixed in all the markers. Now block cutting was
done in two sizes for front and lapel (Annexure IV). While laying the block is placed at the
fixed place and is cut on the machine along with the fabric. Now, re-cutting is done to
remove seam allowance that too without using shell as pattern which took time.

Figure 6.17: New Fusing Cutting Flow Diagram



Figure 6.18: New Fusing Cutting Flow
Place the fusing block
on fabric lay
Cut along with the
shell on block cutter
machine
Re-cut to remove
seam allowances
54

Result:


55

6.3.4 Ready Cutting
In ready cutting the shell fabric is re-cut by rotary knife using paper patterns made for that
order (see figure 6.20 and 6.21). Though this work station is not a bottleneck point but the
number of operators used is more than the required because non-value added time is highest
at this work station. Patterns requisition from CAD and matching them as per orders
tookabout 30 min time for 25 orders i.e. 1.5 man hours. Sometimes order reached at the ready
cutting table but pattern was not ready because there was no sequencing or rather they were
not synchronized.

Figure 6.19: Pattern Stand
56


Figure 6.20: Ready Cutting

Figure 6.21: Rotary Knife for Ready Cutting
57

If the flow is maintained and CAD and cutting are synchronized, this waste of time of skilled
labor can be avoided. In order to do this concept of FIFO has been implemented which will
be explained in next section 6.4 in detail.
After synchronization a system has been developed to move the patterns in which the pattern
passes along with the track sheet and the cut parts. This eliminates not only the pattern
searching time but also minimizes movement as the operators used to go to pattern stand.

Figure 6.22: Pattern Movement Along With Trolley


58

Result:SAM for Jacket (Solid) = (795.29 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 11.43
SAM for Jacket (Stripe) = (924 *0.75* 1.15)/60 = 13.28
SAM for Jacket (Checks) = (1060 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 15.24 (Appendix 1 sheet10)
Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:30%:20%) (Appendix- From
output report)
So, average time = (5*11.43 +3 *13.28 + 2*15.24)/ (5+3+2) = 12.75 min
So, Capacity = (480*4) /12.75 = 150i.e. 75 solid, 45 stripe and 30 checked
Hence, the number of operators required is only two instead of 4.



59

6.4 Sequential Movement (FIFO)
Earlier the concept of FIFO was followed on Day-wise basis. There is a color coding for each
day of the week and the orders move in that order. But in order to make the system
successful, each order has to be moved as per FIFO i.e. FIFO within the day-wise color
coding.

Figure 6.23: Color Coding and a Color Coded Track sheet
Now, a SWIP of 5 has already been defined but the whole system will collapse if the pattern
for ready cutting is not made available at the time of ready cutting. The baskets will create a
jam. So, in order to have FIFO within the day following implementations were done:
60

6.4.1 A Track Sheet Holder at Pattern Cutting Machine

Figure 6.24: FIFO Stand at Pattern Cutter
6.4.2 Fabric Holding Stand in Store
The store boy used to cut each order and pile up one after another. When they were loaded
for laying all the fabrics were mixed and no order was followed except for day-wise. Many a
time it happened that the order which came first moved too late and the order which came
later moved first. Now, the pattern is ready for the order which came first but not for the
order which came last. So, the pattern is ready for the order which did not reach at the ready
cutting table and pattern is not available for the order which is already there at ready cutting
table.
61


Figure 6.25: Cut Fabric for laying
62


Figure 6.26: Piled up fabrics falling and mixing

Figure 6.27: Stand for cut fabric in the store
63

To solve this problem, a separate trolley (See Figure 27) was made having three sections
divided by removable plywood. Having tree sections distributes the weight of the fabrics.
How does it work?
The store boy picks the track sheet from the stand in an order and cuts the fabric and
place in the lowest section. The stand at this point is empty and plywood boards are
outside.
He cuts and put one after another till first section is full. Now he puts the plywood
back.
Next, het put the cut fabric in the second section and so on.
Once the Trolley is full, laying operator takes it to the laying table and draws the
fabric from bottom. Though the total cut fabrics are around 25-30 in the trolley but
there is weight of only about 10 fabrics on the lowest fabric. Hence, it can be easily
drawn out.
Meanwhile, the store boy fills other trolley and once the trolley at laying is empty its
brought back and next filled trolley goes back.

64

6.5 Emergency Order Handling Flag System
As per current procedure, for urgent order the word urgent is hand written on the track
sheet. The worker sees it and passes forward after processing. The main problem with this
was that its not clearly visible and was mixed along with other orders. The supervisor or
cutting executive had to search and give them manually to the workers and they had to track
constantly to see it thats passing or not.


Figure 6.28: Emergency Order Handling System (Previous)
65

Many times workers dont see and is mixed with other orders. For this a red flag is attached
to the basket containing urgent order.

Figure 6.29 Emergency Order Handling System (Implemented)
Result:This will increase visibility not only for workers but also for executives and thus
smooth flow of emergency order will be maintained.

66

6.4 New Capacity Calculation
Lining Cutting and laying
Man Hour= 8 x 2 = 16 hours
SAM for 2-piece suit = 1.5+5.59 min = 7.09 min
SAM for trouser = 0.33+ 1.99= 2.32 min
Let the ratio of suit to trouser be 1:2 (From output report Appendix III)
So, average time = (1 x 7.09 + 2 x 2.32)/ (1+2) = 3.91 min
So, Capacity = (480 x 2)/3.91 = 245 i.e. 82 suits and 163 trousers
Block Cutting
Machine 1
SMV for 2-piece suit = 501sec
SAM for 2-piece suit = 575.50 sec = 9.61 min
SMV for Trouser = 179.82 sec
SAM for Trouser = 206.79 sec = 3.45 min
If the machine is repaired, we can take efficiency to be 95%.
Machine hours= 8*0.95 = 7.6 hours
Let the ratio be 1:1
Average time = (9.61 + 3.45)/2 = 6.53
So, Capacity = (7.6 * 60)/6.53 = 70 i.e. 35 suits and 35 trousers orders.


67

Machine 2
SMV for 2-piece suit = 580.02 sec
SAM for 2-piece suit = 667.023 sec = 11.12 min
SMV for Trouser = 189.36 sec
SAM for Trouser = 217.76 sec = 3.63 min
If the machine is repaired, we can take efficiency to be 95%.
Machine hours= 8*0.95 = 7.6 hours
Let the ratio be 1:1
Average time = (11.12 + 3.63)/2 = 7.38
So, Capacity = (7.6 * 60)/7.38 = 62 i.e. 31 suits and 31 trousers orders.
Out of 456*2 = 912 min, 15 % 0f 912 min i.e. 136.8 min has been given as PFD allowance.
Now, the co-worker is trained at least 5% i.e. 45 min can be used.
This implies that 3 more suits and 3 more trousers can be cut.
Hence, total capacities = (35+31+3) 69 suits and 69 trouser orders (or 69+1.45*69=169).

Fusing Cutting and Fusing Machine (Jacket)
Machine Hours = 8 hour (At100% efficiency)
SAM = 4.23 + 1.33 = 5.56 min
Capacity = 480/5.6= 86 jackets

68

Fusing Machine (Trouser)
Machine Hours = 8 hour (At100% efficiency)
SAM = 1.5 min
Capacity = 480/1.5 = 320 trouser
Ready Cutting (Jackets)

SAM for Jacket (Solid) = (795.29 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 11.43
SAM for Jacket (Stripe) = (924 *0.75* 1.15)/60 = 13.28
SAM for Jacket (Checks) = (1060 * 0.75*1.15)/60 = 15.24 (Appendix 1 sheet10)
Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:30%:20%) (Appendix- From output
report)
So, average time = (5*11.43 + 3 *13.28 + 2*15.24)/ (5+3+2) = 12.75 min
So, Capacity = (480*4) /12.75 = 150 i.e. 75 solid, 45 stripe and 30 checked
Hence, the number of operators required is only two instead of 4.
So, Capacity = (480*2) /12.75 = 75 i.e. 37 solid, 23 stripe and 15 checked


Ready Cutting (trousers)

Man Hours = 8 hrs.
SAM for Jacket RC (solid) =2.51min
SAM for Jacket RC (stripe) = 6.55 min
SAM for Jacket RC (checks) = 9.77 min
69

Let the ratio of solid, stripe and checks be5:4:1 (50%:40%:10%) (From output report
Appendix 3)
So, average time = (5*2.51 +4 *6.55 + 1*9.77)/ (5+4+1) = 4.85 min
So, Capacity = 480 /4.58 = 105i.e. 53 solid, 42 stripe and 10 checked
Checking (Jackets)

Man Hours = 8
SAM =8.54 min
So, Capacity = 480 /8.54 = 56

Checking (Trousers)

Man Hours = 8
SAM for Trouser Checking (solid& stripe) =2.23 min
SAM for Jacket Checking (checks) = 4.27 min
Let the ratio of solid& stripe, and checks be9:1 (90%:10%) (From output report Appendix
III)
So, average time = (9*2.23 + 1*4.27)/ (9+1) = 2.434 min
So, Capacity = 480 /2.434 =197 i.e. 177 solid and stripe, and 20 checked
6.5 New capacity summary
Operations No Of Operators Jackets Trousers
Lining Cutting and
Laying
2 82 163 + 82
Block Cutting 2 69 69 + 69
Fusing Cutting and
Fusing M/C
1 86 320
Ready Cutting 3 75(37,23,15) 105(53,42,10)
Checking 2 56 197(177,20)

Table 6.1 New Capacity Summary
70







CHAPTER 7
PROJECT COST

71

CHAPTER 7
PROJECT COST
8.1 Project Costing
Tools
a) Fabric Stand = Rs. 1200 x 1 = Rs. 2000
b) Lining Stand = Rs. 5000 x 1 = Rs. 5000
c) Tag Gun = Rs. 1300 x 2 = Rs. 2600
Total = Rs. 9,600
Conveyor Assembly
a) 2 x 2 Square Pipe = Rs. 900 x 3 = Rs. 2,700
b) 1.5 x 1.5 Square Pipe = Rs. 800 x 15 = Rs. 12,000
c) Bush = Rs. 100 x 44 = Rs. 4,400
(Though the original cost of bush was Rs. 300 each but they were in scrap, so scrap value
considered @ Rs.55 per kg)
d) J hook = Rs. 900 x 7 = Rs. 6,300
e) GI Pipe(diameter ) = Rs. 900 x 12 = Rs. 10,800
f) Wheel(Handle) = Rs 150 x 50 = Rs. 7,500
g) Chain = Rs. 100 x 50 = Rs. 5,000
h) Others(Bolt, welding materials) = Rs. 5,000
i) Baskets =Rs. 150 x 25 = Rs. 3,750
Total = Rs. 57,450
Hence, total project cost = Rs. 67,050
72

The labor cost has been not included in the cost analysis because everything was developed
in-house as there is a team of 45 staff in maintenance department. They are paid each month
regardless of work. Since, the company is paying them regardless work they do, hence their
labor cost has not been reflected in the cost sheet.



73








CHAPTER 8
RESULTS AND SAVINGS

74

CHAPTER 8
RESULTS AND SAVINGS

a) The overall capacity of the cutting department increased by 76% for suits i.e. from 39
to 69 and 72 % for trousers i.e. from 40 orders to 69 orders (Quantity can vary as an
order may contain 1-10 trousers).
The result was that overtime is no longer required.

No. of operators used in Over Time per day = 5
Average wage per hour = Rs. 55
Average number of hours Over Time Done = 4 hours
Hence, Wage paid per day = Rs. 5 x 55 x 4 = Rs. 1100
Wage paid per month = Rs. 1100 x 30 = Rs. 33,000
(30 days has been considered because overtime was done on Sunday also)
Wage paid per annum = Rs. 33,000 x 12 = Rs. 3,96,000

Hence, there will be a total saving of Rs. 3,96,000 per annum on account of
avoiding overtime.

b) Four labors were shifted to other department where there was requirement. Hence, the
cost incurred in cutting has been reduced on account of decreased number of labors.
Labor Saved = 4
Hence, saving from operators = Rs. 5200 x 4 = Rs. 20,800 per month
= Rs. 20,800 x 12 = Rs. 2,49,600 per annum
Hence, a total of Rs. 2,49,600 will be saved per annum.
75

c) Reduced throughput time: As there was no sequencing and the orders which came
first did not necessarily move first. So, for some orders throughput time was 12- 16
hours depending on the delay and mix up. But now the throughput time is reduced to
2-2.5 hours depending on style. Hence, the order received can be loaded in the line
same day can be delivered next day by the evening reducing lead time to just 2 days
from the current lead time of 4 days.
d) Better workplace visualization: The status of work can be seen from anywhere in
the department. If there is any hold up, the baskets will pile up and can be enquired.
e) An efficient emergency order handling system:Now the emergency order is
handled very efficiently and there is no need to constantly guide the worker to move
emergency order. Its very systematic. The executives can also have a glance while
passing and can question if there is no movement of the emergency order.
f) Increased efficiency: Workers are now forced to work to supply materials to
succeeding stations. Hence, the overall efficiency has increased.



76







CHAPTER 9
LIMITATIONS AND SCOPE
FOR FURTHER STUDY


77


CHAPTER 9
LIMITATIONS AND SCOPE OF FURTHER STUDY
Since, each order is unique in style in MTM, the data gathered for observed time, the ratio of
suits to trouser quantity for capacity calculation may not be accurate; its only approximate
value. One can never predict the number of orders received and their style variations in this
department. So, every data presented is approximate, though care has been taken to take in
account each variation.
Since, the demand for increased capacity was something which needed to addressed urgently,
hence, continuous improvement has been made and no drastic change was done as it requires
huge capital, months of planning and culture change. But in future projects can be taken to
eliminate the ready cutting. Also, the basket being used now is a bit bulky as existing unused
baskets have been used for the time being because of lack of budget. But there can be
alternatives to this basket. Not only this, methods can be devised to avoid manual pushing of
baskets to the succeeding work stations.



78








CHAPETR 10
CONCLUSION
79

CHAPTER 10
CONCLUSION
The project has achieved its intended objectives of increasing the capacity and decreasing
throughput time of cutting department.The overall capacity of the cutting department
increased by 76% for suits i.e. from 39 to 69 and 72 % for trousers i.e. from 40 orders to 69
orders (Quantity can vary as an order may contain 1-10 trousers). The result was that
overtime is no longer required saving Rs. 3,96,000per annum.
Four labors were shifted to second shift where there was requirement. Hence, the cost
incurred in cutting has been reduced byRs. 2,49,600 per annum on account of decreased
number of labors.
Hence, a whopping sum of Rs. 6,45,600 will be saved per annum.
Further, the throughput time has been reduced to 2-2.5 hours depending on style from 12-14
hours. Hence, the order received can be loaded in the line same day can be delivered next day
by the evening reducing lead time to just 2 days from the current lead time of 4 days.
There is increased work place visibility of work place. The status of work can be seen from
anywhere in the department. If there is any hold up, the baskets will pile up and can be
enquired.
Now, the company has an efficient emergency order handling system and there is no need to
constantly guide the worker to move emergency order. Its very systematic. The executives
can also have a glance while passing and can question if there is no movement of the
emergency order.
.


80

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Books
Bicheno, J. (2004). New Lean Toolbox : Towards Fast Flexible Flow. Picsie Books.
Harrington, H. (1996). The complete benchmarking implementation guide: total
benchmarking management. New York: McGraw-Hill.
Kanawaty, G. (1992). INTRODUCTION TO WORK STUDY. geneva: Publications of the
International Labour Office.
Michal Marton, I. P. (n.d.). One Piece Flow - Another View on Production Flow In The Next
Continuous Process Improvement .
Miller, J. (2007, April 21). Retrieved from gemba panta rei:
http://www.gembapantarei.com/2007/04/ten_reasons_why_one_piece_flow.html
Silver, E. P. (1998). Inventory Management and Production Planning and Scheduling. New
York: Wiley.
Websites
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6/591/the-long-and-short-of-garmenting-
leadtime1.asp
http://apparel.edgl.com/case-studies/Optimize-Lead-Times,-Maximize-Profits74689
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/02/garment-cm-cost-estimation-using-sam-
or.html
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2014/02/how-to-calculate-cost-of-manufacturing.html
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/08/how-to-stop-missing-of-garments-in.html

81









APPENDICES AND ANNEXTURE