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The author of The Hip Girl's Guide to Homemaking shows you how to love your kitchen and learn to make creative, delicious food without breaking your budget.
You can become a confident cook--even if the drawer with the take-out menus is the only part of your kitchen you currently use! Kate Payne shows you how to master basic cooking techniques--boiling, baking, and sauteing--and simplifies the process of fancy ones, like jamming and preserving, dehydrating, braising, roasting, infusing, and pickling. With this straightforward and fun guide, you can stock up your kitchen with the ingredients, tools, and appliances you'll actually use. You'll also learn how to decode recipes and alter them to make them gluten-free, dairy-free, or vegan.
The Hip Girl's Guide to the Kitchen includes advice and instructions on how to make both classic meals and foods that are typically bought, such as yogurt; ice cream; flavored salt; oil and vinegar infusions; kimchi; aioli; jam; granola; bread; and fruit leather--even liqueurs, iced teas, and vegetable juices. With fun line drawings, sidebars full of tips and tricks, and lists of resources, Kate Payne sets you up for success and shows you how to unlock your inner kitchen prowess.
The author of The Hip Girl's Guide to Homemaking shows you how to love your kitchen and learn to make creative, delicious food without breaking your budget.
You can become a confident cook--even if the drawer with the take-out menus is the only part of your kitchen you currently use! Kate Payne shows you how to master basic cooking techniques--boiling, baking, and sauteing--and simplifies the process of fancy ones, like jamming and preserving, dehydrating, braising, roasting, infusing, and pickling. With this straightforward and fun guide, you can stock up your kitchen with the ingredients, tools, and appliances you'll actually use. You'll also learn how to decode recipes and alter them to make them gluten-free, dairy-free, or vegan.
The Hip Girl's Guide to the Kitchen includes advice and instructions on how to make both classic meals and foods that are typically bought, such as yogurt; ice cream; flavored salt; oil and vinegar infusions; kimchi; aioli; jam; granola; bread; and fruit leather--even liqueurs, iced teas, and vegetable juices. With fun line drawings, sidebars full of tips and tricks, and lists of resources, Kate Payne sets you up for success and shows you how to unlock your inner kitchen prowess.
The author of The Hip Girl's Guide to Homemaking shows you how to love your kitchen and learn to make creative, delicious food without breaking your budget.
You can become a confident cook--even if the drawer with the take-out menus is the only part of your kitchen you currently use! Kate Payne shows you how to master basic cooking techniques--boiling, baking, and sauteing--and simplifies the process of fancy ones, like jamming and preserving, dehydrating, braising, roasting, infusing, and pickling. With this straightforward and fun guide, you can stock up your kitchen with the ingredients, tools, and appliances you'll actually use. You'll also learn how to decode recipes and alter them to make them gluten-free, dairy-free, or vegan.
The Hip Girl's Guide to the Kitchen includes advice and instructions on how to make both classic meals and foods that are typically bought, such as yogurt; ice cream; flavored salt; oil and vinegar infusions; kimchi; aioli; jam; granola; bread; and fruit leather--even liqueurs, iced teas, and vegetable juices. With fun line drawings, sidebars full of tips and tricks, and lists of resources, Kate Payne sets you up for success and shows you how to unlock your inner kitchen prowess.
Nutritious, and Af fordable Meals Foreword by Eugenia Bone HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 3 4/3/14 3:46 PM THE HIP GIRLS GUIDE TO THE KITCHEN: A HIT- THE- GROUND-RUNNING APPROACH TO STOCKING UP AND COOKING DELICIOUS, NUTRITIOUS, AND AFFORDABLE MEALS. Copyright 2014 by Kathryn E. Payne. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information address Harper Design, 195 Broadway, New York, NY 10007. Harper Collins books may be purchased for educational, business, or sales promotional use. For information please e- mail the Special Markets Department at SPsales@ harpercollins.com. First published in 2014 by: Harper Design An Imprint of Harper CollinsPublishers 195 Broadway New York, NY 10007 Tel (212) 207- 7000 harperdesign@harpercollins.com www.harpercollins.com Distributed throughout the world by: Harper CollinsPublishers 195 Broadway New York, NY 10007 ISBN: 978- 0- 06- 225540- 2 Library of Congress Control Number: 2014934592 Book design by Suet Yee Chong Illustrations by Meredith Dawson Calligraphy by Alison Hanks Printed in the United States of America, 2014 First printing, 2014
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Ive come a long way in the kitchen, believe me. My twenties
were paved with good intentions and a shameful lot of wasted groceries. Besides the fact that I was missing all that money that was literally composting at the bottom of the refrigerator, I was also missing that amazing feeling that comes when you realize you are able to feed yourself to walk into the kitchen and use what you have on hand to make something edible, and maybe even delicious. My version of kitchen confdence is as simple as knowing how to feed yourself from basic ingredients in as much or less time than it takes to go buy something premade from a grocery store, restaurant, or deli. And that confdence can change your day, your week, and your life. Our society seems to like the idea of cooking much more than the actual cooking, as evidenced by our obsession with buying cookbooks, food magazines, and fancy kitchen gear; watching chefs make stuff on TV; downloading apps; and try- HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 13 4/3/14 3:46 PM xiv I NTRODUCTI ON ing to technologize ourselves out of and around the matter at hand: cutting up food and cooking it. All these great resources and tools are at our disposal, and yet we often feel too busy to pre- pare meals at home. The disconnect between our cutting boards and the dinner plate is paramount. why cook, why you? Let me rephrase that question: Why do it yourself when its so easy to eat out or buy the packaged item? My answer to that question is quality, nutrition, and economics. quality Food you buy from restaurants unless money is no issue and you plan to dine only at local, sustainability- focused, farm- to- table restaurants is likely composed of the cheapest ingredients the owner could fnd. My dad is in the wholesale food business and our family has owned restaurants in the past; he knows both sides of the industry really well. Pesticides, hormones, and GMOs are on my list of things to avoid when possible, and the cheap- est ingredients often include many of these on their bottom- line price tags. nutrition Food processing (the act of turning whole ingredients on a large scale into packaged and/or ready- to- eat items) strips many foods of valuable nutrients, primarily to preserve them and keep them from spoiling before they land in our shopping carts. Unfortunately, these processes also make it harder for our bodies to digest or pro- HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 14 4/3/14 3:46 PM xv I NTRODUCTI ON cess the foods in many cases. Its unreasonable to swear off all pack- aged food in busy, modern life, but its important to understand that the less we buy in a package and the more we cook from whole ingredients the better. There are many cheap (and cheaply made) convenience items out there packed full of stuff our bodies werent designed to consume, at least on a regular basis. economics Making choices about and changes to what you and possibly your family consume is a big deal. There are long- held beliefs and hab- its to consider and then issues of monthly budgets to factor into the equation. My wife and I had to bid farewell to the majority of the packaged, premade goods we liked buying (oh, the conve- nient gluten- free cookies!) in order to make room in our budget for more expensive dairy and meats from cows and other animals raised mostly locally and without antibiotics and hormones. I understand not everyone is able to make these kinds of choices (as those cookies or convenience items might not be in the bud- get to begin with). The wider problems of food access and hunger are issues I care deeply about, and I hope to see viable alterna- tives for those living with these realities. This book is intended not as an approach to solving these issues but rather as a tool to bring those of us with income that covers our basic needs (and this still includes tight budgets) to a place where feeding ourselves with better- quality things for approximately the same amount of money is a reality. Learning how to make all this work on a budget is what Ive tried to do for the past six years of my freelance writing career and eating life. We simply dont have the money to purchase whatever we want, so we prioritize. HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 15 4/3/14 3:46 PM xvi I NTRODUCTI ON reality in small bites My wife told someone at a party recently that the key to being suc- cessful in the kitchen is planning one meal ahead. She taught me that planning for at least one meal in the future will in large part prevent the hunger meltdowns, unplanned takeout, and impulse purchases during mealtime grocery store visits. Staying ahead of the curve is where you want to be. Its no surprise that youre going to need to eat three times tomorrow. Starting the thought process on at least one of those meals now is going to bolster success in remaining thrifty with your meal budget. My wife cooks in fact, shes the one who taught me how stress- free it can be. When we were living on less than $200$250 per month for all our food costs in Brooklyn (with little to no expend- able income for restaurants), she showed me how to regularly prac- tice cooking. Approaching cooking as a continuous cycle really helps turn sporadic bursts of grocery purchases (and subsequent rot, in the downtimes) into cycles of meals you can and want to eat as the days tumble forward, whether you feel like cooking or not. i dont like to cook Throughout my successes in building community around re- claiming our homes and certain empowering domestic arts, an unsettling reality remained. I dont inherently like everyday cook- ing; I dont fnd it relaxing. Rather, I fnd it to be a stressful thing that comes up more often than I feel prepared to handle. (When its time to make ice cream, bread, or pickles, however, Im your woman, your special projects task force who cheerfully steps up.) In my earlier years, I abstained from daily cooking, thinking it took too much time (that is, when there was more than $12 in my bank account for the next two weeks), and then rushed off to HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 16 4/3/14 3:46 PM xvii I NTRODUCTI ON that local Slow Food event or book club meeting where we chatted about eloquent food prose or changing the food system (where I felt like a hypocrite and embarked on a minishame spiral, thinking I should have it all under control and like cooking). That kind of thinking an absent but obligatory affection for actual cooking wasnt doing me any favors, nor was it inspiring me to get into the kitchen. I am solidly a part of the group I think will fnd this book use- ful. I took over the task of sustenance cooking in our household while writing this book because it was important to me to practice what I preach, to be knee- deep in the endless cycle of getting food on the table. Thanks to writing this book, I managed to reframe the act of cooking into something less ominous, and I hope to help you fnd a way to do that too. Not all of us have signifcant others or room- mates who carry the responsibility for household sustenance on their backs with ease or even joy. I now try to view cooking as a challenge and opportunity to come up with creative meals from things we already have, a minor shift that keeps my wheels mov- ing and keeps me just out of the former drudgery and stress zone. If my attitude (and aptitude) can change, Im betting theres hope for you, too. During the many evenings I spent writing this book since, in true procrastiKate style, I left my writing for the end of the day it was not unusual that I had to make a choice between making din- ner and writing. I surely noted the irony in the fact that we were eating/ordering out because I needed every minute available to write my book on how to kick ass in the kitchen (and the other cook in our house was working late and didnt want to eat any of the prefrozen leftovers meals I had on hand for just this sort of occasion). Life happens, and eating out is not the enemy. Its not my place HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 17 4/3/14 3:46 PM xviii I NTRODUCTI ON to judge you for opting for store- bought meals or takeout when workweeks are crazy, confdence levels drop, or whatever. Nor should you feel bad about yourself when you need to take the eas- ier road. Your best effort is good enough; do better in small steps. this book isnt going to cook dinner for you Now that you know where Im coming from, its time to get in gear. I will show you how to fold budget- friendly everyday cooking and a few from- scratch projects into the context of your busy life, but it does involve you making an effort to change your habits. This is an at- your- own- pace guide, and continuing in Hip Girls style, Ill offer Hip Tricks and Words to the Wise and tools to stock. Resources at the end of each chapter will offer further reading and additional sources for honing your skills with spe- cifc projects in various aspects of the kitchen. Chapters discuss- ing food projects will also include recipes at the end. Id probably read frst and then go for the recipes, but you can use the book however suits you best. Part I offers the essentials for setting up your kitchen, from equipping your ship to stocking the shelves. In Chapter 1, well start with tools, cookware, equipment, and applianceswhat you really need and where to keep it. Ill cover pantry essentials in Chapter 2, a.k.a. what you should have on hand to avoid shopping every time a meal needs to happen. Then, in Chapter 3, after you have the basics on hand, Ill help you stock up weekly on perish- ables and other fresh ingredients, so you dont end up pitching them (and your paycheck) in the trash the following week. Part II is intended for a hit- the- ground- running approach, see- ing as you need to eat three times daily whether youve mastered your kitchen or not. This part (Chapters 4, 5, and 6) offers real- life advice and tips to move you from clumsy to confdent in the HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 18 4/3/14 3:46 PM xix I NTRODUCTI ON kitchen. No perfect- life pastoral, bird- in- the- windowsill kind of stuff you might see in a motivational guide; rather, Ill clue you in on some from- scratch projects that even you can handle projects that are geared toward people who think its too hard or takes too long to make food from scratch. You can be the judge of what foods you want to dish out dollars to artisan bakers and food ven- dors for, and what you can make suffciently (and, God forbid, even enjoy making!) yourself. Part III, which includes Chapters 7, 8, and 9, helps you put it all together, with entertaining recipes, preserving projects, and party ideas. After all, one thing Ive come to learn about fna- gling food: making it can be fun, but sharing it with others is the real thrill. Plus, your newly acquired kitchen skills mean possibly adding edible gifts (ones that recipients will actually want to eat) to your gifting regime, and thus saving money while youre at it. another cookbook? I used to hoard cookbooks prior to actually developing a work- ing relationship with my kitchen. I saw them as an investment in what is possible. Unfortunately that translated to books that sat on the shelf unused while I ate out or bought prepared foods. So, while The Hip Girls Guide to the Kitchen has recipes, this isnt really a cookbook. Think of it more like a kitchen friend, some- one sitting with you helping to bust your fears in the kitchen. As I researched to write this book, I discovered how many ways there are to make less- than- three- ingredient things (like mayonnaise or beans or bread) and how confusing it can get really fast. As your kitchen friend I feel compelled to tell you that there are no less than three and sometimes up to twelve different ways to do almost everything in the kitchen, and honestly, I dont think its all that important which one you choose, as long as it works for HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 19 4/3/14 3:46 PM xx I NTRODUCTI ON you. You should fnd the way that suits you best and try to learn it by heart. Im sharing my favorite recipes, mostly gleaned from my fve years of experience making the kitchen work for me, and some contributed by the invaluable community of authors and friends who occupy my kitchen bookshelf and blogroll. Finding your community is a large part of this book; I invite you to explore. Ill never tell you something is too hard for you; youre smart and you can fgure it out, even if it takes a few attempts. I will tell you when something is fnicky and a pain in the ass (at frst, or always) and let you be the judge. You may not fnd fun and easy what I fnd fun and easy. Maybe the art of combining components for nutritious meals on the fy wont be your thing because you like meal planning and being more deliberate about your meals. I grant you permission to fnd out what kind of kitchen operator you are and to tailor your experience to reality. After all, you are the only person who can make more cooking happen. I hope you will pick a few things to add to your kitchen tool- box; more specifcally, I hope to deliver you to a confdent state of stocking staples and cooking simple and delicious things for yourself. As with The Hip Girls Guide to Homemaking, I claim myself as the Hip Girl (with the intentional use of an apostrophe), thus you may read on without pressure to be hip or a girl. I wrote this for any- one who has a kitchen and needs to eat from it more frequently, a swath of the population that includes both men and women, single and partnered. So there you have it, a plan for walking up and introducing (or reintroducing) yourself to your kitchen.
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HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 35 4/3/14 3:46 PM 48 THE HI P GI RL S GUI DE TO THE KI TCHEN counter and daily cooking essentials Corral your everyday- use items in a vintage tray or caddy. Youll ensure portability, a little style, and a con- tained (easily washable) area for any salt/pepper spills or oil drips. Its so tempting to keep your olive oil bottle on or right next to the stovetop. The heat doesnt do it any favors, though. Try to keep your cooking essentials tray at least a foot or two away from the stovetop. salt and pepper Buy a pepper mill, for the love of God, and, if at all possible, spend a few extra bucks and physically go into the store to manhan- dle all the options. You and your mill will come into contact at least a few times a day; you should like how it feels, looks, and works. While youre at it, identify from your existing bowls and jars a handy vessel for kosher or cooking salt. Skip the grinder here; salt doesnt contain fragile aromatics like pepper does, so the novelty of fresh cracked salt isnt really necessary. Plus, you want to be able to grab pinches of it while cooking. We have a salt pig; I broke the ceramic spoon within a month of owning it and mended it with Super Glue. A salt pig with a metal spoon (i.e., any smallish measuring spoon on the planet) is ideal. olive oil We buy ours in the bulk section from a local grocery and it costs $6.99 a pound; each nearly full bottle refll costs us approximately $8. We reused a green wine bottle that snugly fts an oil decanter spout (with a little topper that hangs on a chain). We are the kind of people who want to spend more on olive oil, but alas fnd our HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 48 4/3/14 3:47 PM 49 PANTRY STAPLES counter and daily cooking essentials Corral your everyday- use items in a vintage tray or caddy. Youll ensure portability, a little style, and a con- tained (easily washable) area for any salt/pepper spills or oil drips. Its so tempting to keep your olive oil bottle on or right next to the stovetop. The heat doesnt do it any favors, though. Try to keep your cooking essentials tray at least a foot or two away from the stovetop. salt and pepper Buy a pepper mill, for the love of God, and, if at all possible, spend a few extra bucks and physically go into the store to manhan- dle all the options. You and your mill will come into contact at least a few times a day; you should like how it feels, looks, and works. While youre at it, identify from your existing bowls and jars a handy vessel for kosher or cooking salt. Skip the grinder here; salt doesnt contain fragile aromatics like pepper does, so the novelty of fresh cracked salt isnt really necessary. Plus, you want to be able to grab pinches of it while cooking. We have a salt pig; I broke the ceramic spoon within a month of owning it and mended it with Super Glue. A salt pig with a metal spoon (i.e., any smallish measuring spoon on the planet) is ideal. olive oil We buy ours in the bulk section from a local grocery and it costs $6.99 a pound; each nearly full bottle refll costs us approximately $8. We reused a green wine bottle that snugly fts an oil decanter spout (with a little topper that hangs on a chain). We are the kind of people who want to spend more on olive oil, but alas fnd our spare grocery dollars (those not being spent on packaged things or eating out) going to sustain- ably (mostly locally) raised meats. (When Im rich and famous one day, I envision the olive oil spe- cialty shop as one of the frst places Ill hit.) Other things you might keep on a small tray near the stove (if you use them frequently): Cider vinegar Bragg Liquid Aminos (better for you than soy sauce; same liquid, salty effect) Fish sauce Neutral oil for seasoning cast iron (sun- fower or canola) Bottle of blackstrap molasses, so you re- member to spoon it straight up or add a ta- blespoon of it to food every day for its scores of unrefned vitamins and minerals other oils Since oils are so prominent in transforming a pile of ingredients into daily sustenance, I think its im- portant to discuss the nature of the fats and what happens to them when theyre heated; hence, I defer to Sally Fallon on these suggestions. Ive distilled into a short list her pages of text and scientifc re- search surrounding how heat oxidizes polyunsatu- rated oils primarily canola, soybean, corn, and saffower and also causes an overabundance of omega- 6 fatty acids, leaving us starved for the coun-
choosing olive oil Look for expeller- pressed organic extra- virgin olive oil. It should be cloudy (unltered) and golden yellow in color. EVOO is produced by crushing olives between stone or steel rollers versus higher heat methods that denature the antioxidants in the oil. HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 49 4/3/14 3:47 PM 50 THE HI P GI RL S GUI DE TO THE KI TCHEN terbalancing omega- 3s. Oil choice is something to think about and just do your best with. Good cooking oils Olive oil Coconut oil, * also good for baking Okay to heat, but use sparingly Peanut oil Steer clear, or use but dont heat Canola oil (good luck fnding anything out in the world thats not fried or cooked in canola oil; the least we can do is avoid using it all the time at home, too) Saffower oil Sunfower oil vinegars Beyond cider vinegar, which you can make from your fall apple scraps (see page 244), stock red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, and maybe some balsamic as additional favor essentials. Start making your own fruit vinegars (see page 232) to expand your pantry selection. Vinegars of all sorts are best kept at room tem- perature, sealed tightly. vegetable rack staples I love our three- tiered hanging baskets. Level one, the big base area, is nearly always in possession of members of the allium * Check prices online for this and defnitely buy larger containers to keep costs low. Although this wont work for everyone (i.e., vegetarians and vegans), the best fats to panfry in are actually animal fats because they are more stable and can withstand high heat. Read more about making meat stocks and saving skimmed fat for panfrying in Chapter 3. HHGKitchen_i_xx_1_332_revF.indd 50 4/3/14 3:47 PM