ASI

ANPI
CKLES

CONTENTS
Acknowledgments vii
Introduction 1

JAPAN
5

KORE A
39

CHINA
75

INDIA
115

SOUTHE AST ASIA

149
Glossary 181
Resources 192
About the Author 194
Index 195

Shiso is remarkable. The green variety has the most alluring shape.
And the red turns everything it touches the most lovely purply hue.
The flavor is remarkable; while many compare it to mint, thyme,
or basil, I think it stands all on its own. This simple preparation
makes the most of this herb, which can be challenging to find fresh
(though its easy to grow). This recipe also yields two wonderful
kitchen staples: shiso vinegar and pickled shiso leaves. The vinegar is excellent on fresh vegetables, particularly cucumbers. The
pickled leaf is an unusual aromatic that plays nicely with chicken,
in salads, on sandwiches, or with rice.

PICKLED SHISO LE AVES

AND SHISO VINEGAR
TI M E: A B OUT 2 W E E KS M A KES A B OUT 11/2 OU N C ES
PI C K L E D S H I S O L E AV ES A N D 11/2 CUPS S H I S O V I N EG A R

2 ounces fresh red or

green shiso leaves

11 2 cups unseasoned rice vinegar

Pack the shiso leaves into a clean, odor-free jar with a tight-fitting lid.
Pour the vinegar over the shiso and push down on the leaves to make
sure they are completely submerged in the liquid. Store in a cool, dark
place for 2 weeks, gently shaking the jar every couple of days.
After 2 weeks, drain the vinegar and store it in a pouring bottle on the
shelf; the flavor will be at its best for about 2 months. Lay the leaves
out on a sheet of wax paper, cover with another sheet of wax paper,
and store in an airtight container. These will keep, refrigerated, for at
least a month.

Japan

31

Shiso is remarkable. The green variety has the most alluring shape.
And the red turns everything it touches the most lovely purply hue.
The flavor is remarkable; while many compare it to mint, thyme,
or basil, I think it stands all on its own. This simple preparation
makes the most of this herb, which can be challenging to find fresh
(though its easy to grow). This recipe also yields two wonderful
kitchen staples: shiso vinegar and pickled shiso leaves. The vinegar is excellent on fresh vegetables, particularly cucumbers. The
pickled leaf is an unusual aromatic that plays nicely with chicken,
in salads, on sandwiches, or with rice.

PICKLED SHISO LE AVES

AND SHISO VINEGAR
TI M E: A B OUT 2 W E E KS M A KES A B OUT 11/2 OU N C ES
PI C K L E D S H I S O L E AV ES A N D 11/2 CUPS S H I S O V I N EG A R

2 ounces fresh red or

green shiso leaves

11 2 cups unseasoned rice vinegar

Pack the shiso leaves into a clean, odor-free jar with a tight-fitting lid.
Pour the vinegar over the shiso and push down on the leaves to make
sure they are completely submerged in the liquid. Store in a cool, dark
place for 2 weeks, gently shaking the jar every couple of days.
After 2 weeks, drain the vinegar and store it in a pouring bottle on the
shelf; the flavor will be at its best for about 2 months. Lay the leaves
out on a sheet of wax paper, cover with another sheet of wax paper,
and store in an airtight container. These will keep, refrigerated, for at
least a month.

Japan

31

BANCHAN
Daikon is an unsung vegetable hero, capable of transforming itself
into the craziest shapes and textures. What I love about this pickle
is that the comically large white radish, once dried, is almost unrecognizable; it takes on a sweet flavor and a fruit leather/jerky texture. Its totally different than Cubed Radish Kimchi (page 49) or
Sweet Shredded Daikon and Carrot (page 71). I hate to play favorites, but this is one I keep around more often than not.

DRIED DAIKON
(MU MALENGI)
TI M E: A B OUT 3 1/2 H OUR S M A KES A B OUT 11/4 CUPS

11 2 pounds daikon radish

1 tablespoon black sesame oil

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon Korean chile flakes

2 tablespoons black sesame seeds

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce

2 tablespoons water

5 teaspoon sugar

Wash the daikon and trim the ends, but dont peel it. Slice the daikon
into long -inch-thick piecesfor now, the length and the width arent
important, as you'll cut them again later. Lay them flat in a shallow baking dish or pan. Sprinkle with the salt and toss to coat evenly. Let the
radish sit for 15 minutes to sweat out some of its moisture.
Lightly rub the oven racks with vegetable oil (or if you prefer, rub two
large wire cooling racks with oil). Preheat the oven to 200F and position both oven racks in the middle.
Rinse the radish under running water and let it drain. Dry it in a single layer between two clean kitchen towels, pressing on it to remove
as much moisture as possible.
Lay the daikon strips on the racks in a single layer, without touching.
Place a wooden spoon in the oven door to keep it slightly ajar, and allow
continued

ASIAN PICKLES

60

BANCHAN
Daikon is an unsung vegetable hero, capable of transforming itself
into the craziest shapes and textures. What I love about this pickle
is that the comically large white radish, once dried, is almost unrecognizable; it takes on a sweet flavor and a fruit leather/jerky texture. Its totally different than Cubed Radish Kimchi (page 49) or
Sweet Shredded Daikon and Carrot (page 71). I hate to play favorites, but this is one I keep around more often than not.

DRIED DAIKON
(MU MALENGI)
TI M E: A B OUT 3 1/2 H OUR S M A KES A B OUT 11/4 CUPS

11 2 pounds daikon radish

1 tablespoon black sesame oil

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon Korean chile flakes

2 tablespoons black sesame seeds

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce

2 tablespoons water

5 teaspoon sugar

Wash the daikon and trim the ends, but dont peel it. Slice the daikon
into long -inch-thick piecesfor now, the length and the width arent
important, as you'll cut them again later. Lay them flat in a shallow baking dish or pan. Sprinkle with the salt and toss to coat evenly. Let the
radish sit for 15 minutes to sweat out some of its moisture.
Lightly rub the oven racks with vegetable oil (or if you prefer, rub two
large wire cooling racks with oil). Preheat the oven to 200F and position both oven racks in the middle.
Rinse the radish under running water and let it drain. Dry it in a single layer between two clean kitchen towels, pressing on it to remove
as much moisture as possible.
Lay the daikon strips on the racks in a single layer, without touching.
Place a wooden spoon in the oven door to keep it slightly ajar, and allow
continued

ASIAN PICKLES

60

I am no stranger to spicy food, but I once ate one of these that was so
hot I had to lie down. Why? Because I was being macho and I didnt
remove the seeds and membranes from the peppers. I have also,
of course, eaten many that were just the right degree of spiciness.
No matter what happens with the heat, you will deeply enjoy the
sweet (dates), pungent (onion), and bracing (vinegar/ginger) aspects
of these perfectly peppery pickle bites. Oh, and if Indian paneer
cheese is not available, you can make do with another very mild,
low-salt milk cheese like queso fresco, haloumi, or a firm quark.

PANEER-STUFFED
PICKLED CHILES
TI M E: 6 DAYS M A KES 8 TO 10 S TU F FE D PEPPER S

4 or 5 jalapeo chiles

1 teaspoon salt

4 or 5 Fresno chiles
1 3

1 2

cup finely chopped yellow onion

(about 1 2 small yellow onion)
1 3

teaspoon ground fenugreek

3 4

cup distilled white vinegar

11 4 cups water

cup minced cilantro

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar

3 ounces paneer, finely diced

3 thin slices fresh ginger

5 dates, pitted and finely chopped

1 large clove garlic, smashed

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Use scissors or kitchen shears

to cut the stems off the peppers, leaving the peppers intact.
When the water is at a rapid boil, slip in the peppers and cook for 5 to
7 minutes, until soft enough to be malleable. Drain and rinse under
cold water to stop the cooking.
While the peppers cool, combine the onion, cilantro, paneer, dates,
salt, and fenugreek in a medium bowl. This is your stuffing.
continued

india

131

I am no stranger to spicy food, but I once ate one of these that was so
hot I had to lie down. Why? Because I was being macho and I didnt
remove the seeds and membranes from the peppers. I have also,
of course, eaten many that were just the right degree of spiciness.
No matter what happens with the heat, you will deeply enjoy the
sweet (dates), pungent (onion), and bracing (vinegar/ginger) aspects
of these perfectly peppery pickle bites. Oh, and if Indian paneer
cheese is not available, you can make do with another very mild,
low-salt milk cheese like queso fresco, haloumi, or a firm quark.

PANEER-STUFFED
PICKLED CHILES
TI M E: 6 DAYS M A KES 8 TO 10 S TU F FE D PEPPER S

4 or 5 jalapeo chiles

1 teaspoon salt

4 or 5 Fresno chiles
1 3

1 2

cup finely chopped yellow onion

(about 1 2 small yellow onion)
1 3

teaspoon ground fenugreek

3 4

cup distilled white vinegar

11 4 cups water

cup minced cilantro

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar

3 ounces paneer, finely diced

3 thin slices fresh ginger

5 dates, pitted and finely chopped

1 large clove garlic, smashed

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Use scissors or kitchen shears

to cut the stems off the peppers, leaving the peppers intact.
When the water is at a rapid boil, slip in the peppers and cook for 5 to
7 minutes, until soft enough to be malleable. Drain and rinse under
cold water to stop the cooking.
While the peppers cool, combine the onion, cilantro, paneer, dates,
salt, and fenugreek in a medium bowl. This is your stuffing.
continued

india

131

ASI
ANPI
CKLES

Copyright 2014 by Karen Solomon

Photographs copyright 2014 by Jennifer Martin
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the
Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin
Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered
trademarks of Random House LLC.
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication data
is on file with the publisher
ISBN: 978-1-60774-476-4
eISBN: 978-1-60774-477-1
Design by Katy Brown
Food styling by Karen Shinto
Prop styling by Christine Wolheim
Printed in China
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First Edition