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If youve been yearning to trade in your tired old tub for a swanky new shower but dread the prospect of tearing down walls, youre in luck. There are loads of great options for transforming your alcove bath into a sleek, sophisticated shower space youll love to use every day. And it doesnt need to cost a fortune. Here are three options to consider.
MATERIALS
1 90 elbow for the shower spout 1 drop ear elbow, " TPT " 4 female threaded pipe adapters Shower faucet, head and spout set polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape Soldering coil Solder paste Steel wool or sandpaper Small steel brush
BEFORE ASSEMBLY
WATER SUPPLY PIPES
You can connect your shower pipes using either copper pipes or PEX plastic pipes. Copper pipes will require soldering. Although PEX pipes are easy to install and do not require soldering, water pressure may be compromised since the metal rims are secured inside the pipes, thus reducing the diameter. PEX tubing cannot be connected directly to the hot water tank or exposed to a significant source of heat. The following project proposes using both copper and PEX.
ADVICE
To facilitate access to your plumbing in order to make adjustments or carry out repairs, we recommend making a trap door in the wall. The project below is restricted to the installation of a shower or bathtub-shower faucet. Details concerning shower stall or ceramic tile installation are not included.
STEPS
1PREPARE THE INSTALLATION
1.1. Shut off the water supply to the shower. 1.2. Use a pencil to mark the location of the shower head, and of the bathtub faucet and spout if required. Height of the faucet: between 45" and 48" Height of the shower head: between 72" and 78" Height of the spout: between 24" and 28"
3.1. Install a cross stud between the two studs at shower-head height to attach the drop ear elbow. 3.2. Apply polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape to the filets of the upper outlet of the drop ear elbow. 3.3. Connect the drop ear elbow to the shower head supply tube. 3.4. Screw the drop ear elbow to the cross stud.
5.1. Remove the protective template attached to the valve. 5.2. Slide the decorative plate onto the valve. 5.3. Position the holes in the plate over the holes in the front of the valve, insert screws and tighten with a screwdriver. 5.4. Screw the handle adapter on the cartridge and, using the hexagonal Allen key, install the handle. The lever should point downwards when the faucet is turned off.
6.1. Apply polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape to the showerhead filets and wrap the tape around the filet two or three times. 6.2. Hand screw the shower head, then tighten the connection turn with an adjustable wrench. 6.3. If your set includes a flexible connector, install it now.
7.1. Turn the spout on the copper pipe so that the setscrew faces upward. Use a hexagonal Allen Key to moderately tighten the screw. 7.2. Turn the spout to the normal position, while making sure its well installed against the shower stall wall. 7.3. Use a hexagonal Allen key to tighten the screw securely. Screwed tub spout 7.4. Apply polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape to the sleeve filets and screw on the spout.
Step 1
Most faucets come with a plastic cover that protects the faucet and serves as a guide for the depth at which it must be set. To determine where to place the braces, consider the total thickness of the finished wall -- often 1/2-inch-thick backerboard plus 1/4-inch-thick tiles
Step 2
Determine how high you want to locate the spout (make sure it will clear the tub), faucet handles, and showerhead. Install a 2x6 brace for each. Anchor the braces with screws rather than nails so it's easier to move them if they need adjustment
Step 3
Assemble all the pipes in a dry run. Install 3/4-inch pipe up to the height of the faucet, add reducer couplings or elbows, and run short lengths of 1/2-inch pipe to the threaded adapters on the faucet. Add hammerarresters. Anchor the faucet according to manufacturer's directions.
Step 4
Once you are sure of the connections, sweat all the fittings. Start at thefaucet, then move on to the shower arm and spout connections. Run 1/2-inch pipe up to the shower arm and down to the spout; attach drop-ear elbows at both spots.
Step 5
Finger-tighten a threaded nipple -- either brass or galvanized -- into both drop-ear elbows. Once the wallcovering is in place, remove them and install the shower arm and tub spout.
Intro
Once you shut off the water and remove the handle and escutcheon, you can quickly determine whether your single-handle tub and shower faucetis a cartridge, ball, or disk type. Getting the parts Tub cartridge faucets work just like sink cartridge faucets. Usually the faucet only turns water on and off; a diverter valve on the spout directs water to the showerhead or the spout. A number of manufacturers make cartridges of varying designs, so take the cartridge with you when you shop for parts. You may need to replace the entire cartridge. Follow the steps remove it. Checklist Time An hour or two for most repairs Tools Screwdriver, hex wrench if needed, groove-joint pliers, cartridge puller if needed Skills Shutting off water, dismantling a faucet, installing small parts Prep Shut off the water, close the tub stopper, and place a rag in the tub to catch any parts Materials Cartridge or repair kit for your faucet model, silicone grease
Step 1
Shut off the water and turn the faucet on until water stops running. To remove the handle you may need a hex wrench, which is sometimes included in a repair kit. Remove the screws holding the escutcheon and slide out the escutcheon.
Step 2
If there is a chrome sleeve, unscrew it or pull it out. Use a smallscrewdriver to pry out the retaining clip that holds the cartridge in place.
Step 3
Some cartridges can be removed easily with pliers; others require a special cartridgepulling wrench (usually available at hardware stores or home centers) made for a specific brand of faucet.
Step 4
If the cartridge is in good shape, replace the O-rings and any other worn parts. (It doesn't cost much more to replace the cartridge.) Rub the O-rings with a thin coat of silicone grease.
Step 5
Insert the new or repaired cartridge into the faucet body, oriented as it was originally. Slide in the retaining clip and replace the handle and escutcheon.
AMERICAN STANDART
Overview
Lets face it. Showers are the bathing choice of just about everyone. So if your bathroom has become a family bottleneck because you dont have enough shower stalls or the one you have is leaking, read on. Well show you how to replace a leaky base, replace a tub with a shower only or install an additional shower to handle demand. Preformed shower bases have vastly simplified the installation process. Theyre virtually leakproof and are vastly easier to install than traditional solid mortar bases. Still, setting a base can be challenging, especially when youre remodeling older plumbing. In this article, well show you how to rip out an old tub and replace it with a one-piece fiberglass shower base. Well walk you through the tricky parts, first how to relocate the drain just right, then the necessary venting. Next, well show how to set a rock -solid baseone that wont crack or leak down the road. Our step-by- step instructions will take you right up to the point where the walls are ready to finish. But we wont go into those finish details here. This is mostly a plumbing project. To take it on, you should be familiar with basic pipe joining techniques. Mostly this involves cutting and cementing plastic pipes and fittings. Dont worry if you make mistakes. The materials are inexpensive and corrections are easily made by cutting out sections and installing new fittings and pipes. Completing this jobgetting the old tub out, reworking the plumbing and installing the new base will take a Saturday at least, a weekend at most. If you have to run a drain line through joists or studs, we recommend that you rent a 1/2-in. right-angle drill and a 2-in. hole saw (or bit; Photo 6). Otherwise basic plumbing tools and hand tools are all youll need. Be sure to apply for a plumbing permit and have an inspection done at the rough-in stage (when everything is still exposed) and after everything is complete (wall surfaces finished, final hardware installed).
Nows a good time to buy a new shower valve too, especially if your old one doesnt have scald protection, as all new ones do. Its a big project to replace a valve that fails after tile or wall panels are installed. Youll need an assortment of pipes and fittings for installing the new drain and for reworking water lines. Pick them up after you open up the floor and walls. At that point you can see what you need, plan the new drain and water supply runs and make a list of supplies. Make a sketch like Figure A to help you keep track of parts.
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Photo 1: Remove the wall Remove the faucet valve handles and escutcheons. Cut through the drywall that surrounds the tile with a utility knife and pull chunks from the wall.
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First unscrew the showerhead and the bathtub spout. Most styles will unscrew, but some will need persuasion with a pipe wrench. If you want to reuse any parts, wrap the tool jaws with cloth to prevent damage. Then remove the handle and mixing valve escutcheon cover. Most handles have a little plastic cap that pops off to expose a screw. Remove the screws and pull off the handle and the escutcheon. Next, strip off the tub surround. Begin by cutting completely through the drywall around the perimeter with a utility knife. If you have cement board behind the tile, simply cut through the tape joint at the ceiling and strip the entire wall. Rip off the tile and drywall together in big chunks (Photo 1). If you have a fiberglass surround with a flange behind the drywall, cut 2 in. outside of the enclosure and pry the sections free one at a time. With the wall open, disconnect the plumbing. Usually you can access the trap from an access panel in the room behind the tub or from an unfinished basement. If you dont have access, youll have to cut a hole in the wall from behind the tub base. If your shutoff valves are in good shape, cut off the water lines above them. If theyre missing, stuck or corroded, shut off the main supply valve, cut off the water lines and install two compression fittingstyle ball valves and leave them in the closed position so you can turn the water back on to the rest of the house (Photo 2). Cover the ends with tape to keep out debris. Fiberglass and steel tubs are fairly light; you can just tip them up and carry them away (Photo 3). If framing makes it difficult to pull out, cut out more drywall along the plumbing wall. Then you can pull the tub away from the wall before you tip it up. Cast iron tubs, on the other hand, are extremely heavy, and we recommend just busting them up with a sledgehammer and carrying out the pieces. (Lay an old blanket over the tub to catch flying shards, and wear safety glasses for this!)
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Photo 4: Mark the new drain Set the shower base in place and mark the drain hole.
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Snug the new shower base up to the wall studs and mark the drain hole (Photo 4). Then pull it aside and draw an access slot on the subfloor (Photo 5). Make the slot about a foot wide and extend it just beyond the new drain location. Keep the edges of the slot over the middle of joists wherever you can to make patching easier later. Make reference marks on the floor outside the slot so you can relocate the center of the drain once you remove the flooring (Photo 6). Pull any nails that fall within the cutting lines. Then set your blade depth to cut just through the subfloor, make the cut and pry it free (Photo 5).
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Photo 6: Cut a path for the drain Drill 2-in. holes through the floor joists for the new drain line. Reference marks help you find the drain center later.
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With the floor and wall open, you can plan your new drain and vent lines. Reworking drain and vent lines will be slightly different with every bathroom, but our photos and Figure A will give you the general idea along with a look at the various fittings you may need. If your tub didnt have a vent, youll probably have to add one. A local plumbing inspector will tell you the rules (usually within 42 in. of the shower P-trap) when you apply for a permit. The new vent must join the main vent at least 6 in. above any spill lines (that usually means sink rims) that share the vent. Youll probably have to open a wall to get it in (Photos 7 and 8). The two keys for adding a drain are to make sure the horizontal lines slope 1/4 in. for every running foot and that the P-trap opening falls directly below the shower drain hole. Start by measuring the height of the center of the existing drain line and the distance to the new drain. Cut off the old P-trap, then run the drain line to the new drain location (Photos 6 and 9). Remember to allow 1/4-in.-per-foot slope when you drill holes in joists. Drill 2-in. holes to leave some room to move the 1-1/2-in. pipe up or down to get the necessary slope. But dont drill in the lower or upper 2 in. of any joist. Most shower drains are designed to receive 2-in. piping, while most existing tub drains are 1-1/2 in. The plumbing
code calls for the transition to be made with a reducer directly below the shower (Photo 10), nowhere else. To run the new vent, mark a section of main stack for removal using the 3 x 1-1/2-in. tee (with 6-in.long nipples) as a guide (Photos 7 and 8 and Figure A). If your main stack will be plastic, cutting it is easy with a hand or reciprocating saw with an 8-in. blade. If you have cast iron, youll have to rent a pipe snapper to make the cut. Slip the fitting into the opening and secure it with transition couplings. Then run the vent line down to the drain, cutting holes in the framing as needed. Horizontal sections should also follow the 1/4-in.-slope rule, running downhill toward the drain. Cut all the pipes and dry-fit them one at a time to the fittings, then double-check the drain line slopes and final drain position. Set the shower base in place to double-check the final placement of the P-trap, inserting a short, temporary tailpiece (Photo 9). When you set the shower base permanently, measure and cut a permanent tailpiece and cement it into place. Starting at the main vent and working toward the P-trap, begin cementing the parts together. If youre using PVC, hold the parts together for about 20 seconds after cementing. Otherwise, the parts will squirt apart before the solvent cures. Save the P-trap-to-drain-line connection for last. Cement it together, and quickly plumb the P-trap with a 6-in. level before the joint sets (Photo 9). Your building inspector will want to see the drain and vent (and possibly the water supply rough-in; Photo 11) before you close up the floor.
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Photo 10: Close the floor Add blocking to shore up the subfloor and screw a patch to the framing with 1-5/8-in. screws. Add a second layer of 1/2-in. subfloor if your finished floor covering will permit it. Add blocking to bolster unsupported plywood edges and screw a patch to the framing with 1-5/8-in. screws (Photo 10). We added a second layer of 1/2-in. underlayment under the entire shower for a
sturdier floor and to better match the finished floor height (1/2-in. backer board and tile). If you need to preserve the original floor height, skip the second layer, but add blocking under the single-layer patch to fully support the shower base.
Shower base
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Photo 11: Run new supply lines Mount a new mixing valve and run new CPVC or copper tubing from the ball valve to the mixing valve and showerhead. Cap the tub spout outlet on the underside of the mixing valve. Turn on the water and check for leaks. Unless youre planning to reuse all of the existing supply lines and valves, simply cut out and remove everything and start fresh. Use a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw. If youve chosen a shower base thats wider than the tub, center the new mixing valve and showerhead over the base. Choose a valve height thats comfortable to reach and clears any obstacles, and make sure the showerhead lands either above or below the top edge of the shower enclosure or tile. Mount the mixing valve first, following the manufacturers instructions, and then fill in the pipes and fittings to and from it (Photo 11). Youll need to add blocking to support it. There may be a threaded nipple or hole in the bottom of the mixing valve for a tub spout. Be sure to cap that. After everything is together, shut off the mixing valve, turn on the water and check for leaks.
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Photo 12: Position the base Level the shower base on all four edges, shimming where needed. Mark the lip where it abuts studs. Measure, cut and cement the final tailpiece to the P-trap.
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Photo 12 shows you how to dry-fit, level and shim the shower base. Take your time. Getting the base level is critical for good drainage. Mark the lip height on the studs and outline the shim locations so you can lift out the base and return it to the exact position. Some bases require that you fit it over a tailpiece when you set it in mortar. To set the base, mix up about half a 60-lb. bag of mortar with water to a creamy consistency. Avoid concrete mix; stones in the mix will hold the base away from the floor. Spread the mortar over the floor under the base, about 1 in. or so thick. Then lower the base into the wet mix, forcing it down to the shims and the stud marks. Make sure to push it against the wall. Let it cure overnight. Dont use the base as a work platform until the next day or youll disturb the mortar before it cures. C lamp the base lip to each stud if clamps are included with the unit. Otherwise, clamp it with fender washers and 2-in. screws. Avoid drilling through the lip and screwing the base directly to the studs. The base might crack and leak.
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Photo 14: Complete the drain hookup Anchor the base to the studs with screws and washers. Push the rubber gasket into place and seat it with a nut driver.
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The base will have directions to guide you through the final drain hookup; your drain system may vary from ours. Cut the tailpiece and cement it at the right height. If your drain has a thick rubber gasket, wet it with soapy water and then work it around the tailpiece pipe. Finish seating it by driving it down with a blunt tool. Our base was shorter than the old tub, leaving a void between the wall and the base. We filled in the space with a 2x4 wall. Add backing where the new walls meet existing ones to make the connection solid and for anchoring backer board. And if you leave it short of the ceiling as we did, you can add a convenient built-in shelf.
Pipe wrench Reciprocating saw Safety glasses Slip joint pliers Soldering torch Trowel Tube cutter, Utility knife
This was done because the threaded connections are often difficult to be kept watertight and even if a small drip is left concealed inside the cavity of a wall, it can result in considerable damage/s. I made it a point to properly wipe off all excess thread compound, else the resulting goo would have found its way into all places in all the directions. I must mention that it requires a considerable amount of torque to successfully prevent such type of connections from succumbing to leakages. One of the most important challenges that all beginners face is getting familiar with the extent to which such threaded connections must be tightened. Connections that are meant to be hidden right behind a drywall are not in the most ideal locations to practice such tasks.
Tub Trivia:
For those highly inquisitive ones among you all, especially the ones who are always interested in getting behind things and understanding their workings, the most interesting aspect about all of the modern tub baths is the manner in which the water gets diverted into the shower head. The only thing youll be required to do is blocking the water flow at the point of tub spout and you will notice the water getting forced up into shower riser pipe and thereafter out through the nozzle. This can also be done easily by covering up the spout by your bare hand/s or with the use of a washcloth at the time when water is already running into the bath tub. Some old types of tub faucets make use of a rotating lever for the purpose of directing the water upwards. However, I still have my doubts whether these kinds really do work in the same manner as described above.
The image that you see on the left shows a drop eared elbow. It features ears which are meant for the purpose of mounting on to a solid structure like some piece of wood block. Its threaded end normally accepts any standard type of L-shaped shower tube that is installed after completion of the wall surfaces. I made a temporary attachment of this drop eared elbow onto a 2 x 4 block of wood that was installed in between studs. Thereafter I was easily able to take the measurements of the riser pipe length needed for connecting to the faucet. After I took the measurement of the length, I soldered both the drop eared elbow and the riser pipe together. The drop eared elbow will get connected with the short riser pipe which was attached to the body of the valve, as described in the step number one. At this point, the riser pipes two sections were soldered together. If there was a need, I could have easily created the shower riser pipe out of just one piece, however it would have increased the probability of the drop eared elbow not getting in perfect alignment with the body of the valve. Somehow, it just seemed that it was much easier to obtain the perfect alignment by simply mounting the drop eared elbow onto the wooden support, and thereafter making the last connection in pipe lengths middle portion, at a safe distance from any type of combustible material.
around 3/4 inch diameter) is the newly installed supply line meant for the two bathrooms on the second floor. Please take note of the heat shields created from sheet metal, meant to provide protection to the surroundings from the great amount of heat generated by the torch. Another important point that must be taken into consideration is that the heavier the gauge is, the better it will be. Once all the fresh supply pipes were in their place, we carried out a test for leakages by applying water pressure into the whole system. This is a very significant step that must be taken prior to concealing the pipes and installation of the drywall. Clearview Plumbing and Heating is a Calgary Plumbing and Heating company based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada which is available round the clock to carry out any type of Calgary Plumbing or Heating job.