Pre-treating

Textile dyes work by creating a chemical bond with the material. This takes time but can be hastened by raising the Ph. This is most easily achieved by soaking the fabric in solution of sodium carbonate. Sodium carbonate is called soda ash and costs less than. Mix about a cup of soda ash in one gallon of warm water. Put the fabrics in this mixture and let them soak for ten or fifteen minutes.

Tie-Dye Colour Detergent. Salt. Utensil to make the dye solution in. A bucket full of water. Gas or Heater Thread or Rubber band to tie.

Tie-dye is a modern term coined in the mid-1960s in the United States for a set of ancient resistdyeing techniques, and for the products of these processes. The process of tie-dye typically consists of folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment and binding with String or rubber bands, followed by application of dye(s). The manipulations of the fabric prior to application of dye are called resists, as they partially or completely prevent the applied dye from colouring the fabric. More sophisticated tie-dyes involve additional steps, including an initial application of dye prior to the resist, multiple sequential dye and resist steps, and the use of other types of resists (stitching, stencils) and discharge. Unlike traditional resist-dyeing techniques, tie-dye is characterized by the use of bright, saturated primary colours and bold patterns. These patterns, including the spiral, mandala, and peace sign, and the use of multiple bold colours, have become clichd since the peak popularity of Tie-dye in the 1960s and 1970s. The vast majority of currently produced tie-dyes use these designs, and many are mass-produced for wholesale distribution. However, a new interest in more 'Sophisticated' tie-dye is emerging in the fashion industry, characterized by simple motifs, monochromatic colour schemes, and a focus on fashionable garments and fabrics other than cotton. Tie-dye as an art form rather than a commodity. Dyes, fabric, and discharge agents. A variety of dyes can be used in tie-dyeing, including household, fiber reactive, acid, and vat dyes. Most tie-dyes are now dyed with Procion MX fiber reactive dyes, a class of dyes effective on cellulose fibers such as cotton, hemp, rayon, and linen. This class of dyes reacts with fibers at basic (high) pH, forming a wash-fast, permanent bond. Soda ash (sodium carbonate) is the most common agent used to raise the pH and initiate the reaction, and is either added directly to the dye or in a solution of water in which garments are soaked before dyeing. Procion dyes are relatively safe and simple to use, and are the same dyes used commercially to colour cellulosic fabrics. Protein-based fibers such as silk, wool, and feathers, as well as the synthetic polyamide fiber, nylon, can be dyed with acid dyes. As may be expected from the name, acid dyes are effective at acidic (low) pH, where they form ionic bonds with the fiber. Acid dyes are also relatively safe (some are used as food dyes) and simple to use. Vat dyes, including indigo, are a third class of dyes that are effective on cellulosic fibers and silk. Vat dyes are insoluble in water in their Unreduced form, and the vat dye must be chemically reduced before they can be used to colour fabric. This is accomplished by heating the dye in a strongly basic solution of sodium hydroxide (lye) or sodium Carbonate (caustic potash) containing a reducing agent such as sodium hydrosulphite or thiourea dioxide. The fabric is immersed in the dye bath, and after removal the vat dye oxidizes to its insoluble form, binding with high wash-fastness to the fiber. However, vat dyes, and especially indigo, must be treated after dyeing by 'soaping' to prevent the dye from rubbing (crocking) off. The extra complexity and safety issues (particularly when using strong bases such as lye) restrict use of vat dyes in tie-dye Discharge agents are used to bleach colour from previously-dyed fabrics, and can be used in a sort of reverse tie-dye. Household bleach (sodium hypochlorite) can be used to discharge Fiber reactive dyes on bleach-resistant fibers such as cotton or hemp. It is important to bleach only as long as required to obtain the desired shade, and to neutralize the bleach with agents such as sodium bisulphite, to prevent damage to the fibers. Thiourea dioxide is another commonly used discharge agent that can be used on cotton, wool, or silk. The results of thiourea dioxide discharge.

1. Find the centre of the sheet, pull fabric up and pleat it. Wrap a tie about five inches down, as tightly as possible and secure with a firm knot. To make thick rings, wrap thick ties. For thin rings, use string or rubber bands. Continue to squeeze the fabric, and add ties every three to five inches until reaching the end of the sheet. Set the sheet aside. 2. Put on rubber gloves. Fill the stock pot with water according to the dye manufacturer's directions. Heat the water to just below simmering. Add the dye and stir with the metal spoon. 3. Immerse the sheet into the hot dye. Gently stir with the metal spoon for four to seven minutes until fabric is saturated to slightly darker than the desired finished colour. Lift the sheet from the dye. 4. Leave the ties in place. Rinse in warm water, then in cooler water until no dye runs out and the water is clear. 5. Carefully release the ties, strings or rubber bands. If using scissors, be sure not to cut the sheet. 6. Wash the sheet in warm water with a mild detergent. Rinse in cool water. Hang the sheet to dry, or dry in a hot dryer to finish setting the dye. When dry, press with a hot iron.

Any natural fiber is great for tie-dye: cotton, rayon, hemp, linen, ramie etc. If you cant find 100% natural shirts, 90% cotton and 10% polyester or Lycra is ok, but avoid 50/50 blends (come out very pale). When tie-dyeing silk or wool or other protein fibers, keep in mind that Fiber Reactive colours shift on these fibers, and you cannot get a true black. Soda Ash is also very hard on these fabrics, so use half as much, and dont cure for more than 4-6 hours, or use the vinegar / microwave method instead of using Soda Ash. It is always good to pre-wash your fabric and garments; fabric softeners, oils and other finishes can prevent the dye from absorbing into the fiber. Cover your work surfaces with old newspapers or folded paper towels to absorb extra dye. Elevating the garment of the table is great to, we like old cookie cooling racks for this. Be sure to wear old clothes, dye will stain! Make sure you get everything covered with dye. After applying dye to one side, flip garment over and repeat the process. Inject the tip of the squeeze bottle into the folds for best dye penetration and less white on the final product. Put a small amount of Sodium Alginate thickener or Super Clear liquid thickener into dye mixture (step 3) to slow down the rate that the dye spreads and to create sharper edges. Got a leaky Squirt bottle? A couple wraps of white Teflon plumber's tape around the threads solves this problem perfectly. It is cheap and available at any hardware store. No tie-dyer should be without it!

In step 4 any method keeping the fabric wet is OK, needn't be a plastic bag cover many with plastic drop cloth, wrap in plastic wrap, etc. The warmer the temperature where you lay out your tie-dyes to cure, the quicker the chemical reaction. Use Water Softener if you suspect you have "hard" water DON'T USE HOT WATER. The dyes work best in lukewarm water (105 degrees). #250- Jet Black does like hot water (140 degrees) and does NOT do well for tie-dye (unless you cure your tie-dyes under an electric blanket!). Urea helps dye to dissolve, so dissolve the Urea in the water first. Add this water to the dye powder gradually and paste it up to avoid lumps. Undissolved dye makes "explosions" of colour or "freckles", so if a colour is difficult to dissolve, straining through some light fabric might be necessary. Coffee filters only work if the dye is really liquid. Otherwise, they filter out too much of the dye If you have trouble making a paste of the colours, a little Calsolene Oil can help because it breaks the surface tension. With this dye, there is always lots of "excess dye" to be washed out. Don't crowd your washing machine with too much tie-dye or the water gets too muddy and so will your tiedyes. A key to clear, brilliant tie-dyes is the rinse and washout procedure - don't skimp! Delicate items like rayon are better hand washed or should go into a mesh bag on a gentle cycle so the agitation doesn't shred them.

Fiber reactive dyes attach permanently to cellulose fibers using a covalent (electron-sharing) bond. These molecules carry a "chromosphere" which absorbs varying spectra of the light, allowing only certain spectra to reflect. Covalent bonding is one of the most basic and strongest types of chemical reactions. This reaction happens gradually over time depending on temperature and/or the Ph. level of the surrounding environment. The Soda Ash pre-soak raises the pH level of the garment or fabric to approximately 10.5. Rising the pH level of the solution that the fabric or garment is soaked in raises the level of negative hydrogen ions in the dyeing environment. The chemical bonding process uses these ions in the reaction. Pre-soaking in Soda Ash fixer solution is what allows the fiber reactive dyes to work at room temperature. The reaction can also be aided with heat. Some tie-dyers have had success with using baking soda and microwaving their dyed articles. Since baking soda is a weaker alkali than Soda Ash, it must be accompanied by heat. Some people who are "chemically sensitive" choose to use this method. The dye is allowed to react in a desirable host environment for up to 24 hours. After this time, the bonding sites on the cellulose should be saturated with dye molecules. Excess dye molecules that have not bonded permanently are washed away using warm water rinse and a dye-carrying detergent like Synthrapol.

Tie-dye is usually very brightly-colour. Combinations of all colours are typically fair game for tie-dye patterns. The effect of banding the material to create an intricate pattern typically leaves a "psychedelic" effect.

The best way of mixing dye is to follow the instructions included with the dye. Every dye has a different technique for what they consider optimum. Dye comes as a very fine powder to which you add water. Long term exposure to these minute particles can lead to respiratory allergies (or cancer). You should always wear a dust mask over your face and work in a well-ventilated area while mixing. When you are familiar with the results of a particular mix, experiment with different concentrations; more dye produces deeper hues and less dye makes lighter shades.

1. Add 1 cup of soda ash to a large bucket filled with a gallon of warm water. This will be enough to tie-dye several shirts or dresses. For larger fabrics, like bed sheets, you can add another cup of soda ash per every gallon. Soak the fabrics in the soda ash water for one hour prior to tie-dyeing. 2. Put on a pair of latex gloves. Although the dyes are not toxic, they can stain your skin for several days if gloves are not worn. 3. Dissolve 1 tbsp. of urea into 1 cup of water in a small bowl. You will need 1 tbsp. of urea, 1 cup of water and one small bowl for each dye colour that you'll be using. Therefore, if you're using seven different colour dyes, you'll need seven small bowls, each containing 1 tbsp. of urea and 1 cup of water. 4. Add 4 tsp. of a fiber reactive dye colour to each bowl of dissolved urea. Do not mix dyes. 5. Pour each bowl of dye mixture into a squirt bottle. Again, do not mix dyes; if you have seven different dye colours, you'll need seven different squirt bottles. Some dark dyes,

like blue and green, will appear black in colour. To prevent confusion, it's always a good idea to write the colour of the dye on each squirt bottle with a permanent marker. 6. Remove your fabric from the soda ash water and wring out the excess water. Tie up the fabric with rubber bands or twine in any way that you like. Squirt the dyes onto the fabric in any pattern that you like. 7. Place the dyed fabric in a plastic bag and allow it to soak overnight in the dye. Remove the fabric after 24 hours and rinse it out under warm water. Remove the rubber bands or twine from the fabric, and continue to rinse the fabric under running water. Once the water starts to run clear, rinse the fabric with cold water. Dry the fabric as normal. 8. Tie the fabric in as many times as you would like. This style is similar to creating stripes, so the number of ties you add will determine the number of stripes. Folding the fabric upwards will create vertical pleats. To create horizontal pleats, follow the same directions and fold the fabric from left to right (or vice versa).

You can get any colour you want by mixing and changing the amounts of each primary colour you mix together. When using Dharma Fiber Reactive Dyes the primary colours are: PR13-FUSCHIA, PPR25-TURQUOISE and PR1-YELLOW. You can get any colour you want by mixing and changing the amounts of each primary colour you mix together. To make secondary colours on your project you can mix up the dyes in the bottle or just apply the two primary colour dyes on the same spot. Only use two primary colours at a time because: YELLOW + FUSCHIA + TURQUOISE = BROWN Be careful when putting a primary colour next to a secondary colour because: Be careful when putting a primary colour next to a secondary colour because:
PURPLE + YELLOW = BROWN TURQUOISE + ORANGE = BROWN FUSCHIA + GREEN = BROWN

1.

Make stripes. Lay your fabric out flat on a table. Roll it from the bottom, so that you

end up with a long tube of fabric. Use string or to tie loops around the fabric roll. a. To create only a few stripes, space out the ties so that there are three or less. For many stripes, use a dozen or more ties around the fabric. b. Rolling the fabric upwards will create vertical stripes c. If you are interested in creating horizontal strips, roll the fabric from left to right (or vice versa), and tie the strings along this direction. 2. Create a spiral. This is the most basic of the tie dye techniques and one of the most popular. To create a spiral on your fabric, first lay it flat on a countertop or table. Then, put your thumb and index finger in the centre of the fabric. Begin moving them in a circular motion, spiralling the fabric around the centre point. a. When you have spiralled the entire fabric, use strings to tie the fabric. You will need to create at least six sections, so use at least three rubber bands or strings over the fabric. It should be roughly round shaped, and have pie slices with the addition of the ties. b. If your fabric begins to form ridges, flatten them out. Your fabric should be spiralled, but it should stay flat on the table. 3.

Create polka dots. Take your fabric, and pinch small sections of fabric between your
fingers. Tie a piece of string around the end of the fabric. To create small dots, only leave one-half to one inch of fabric outside of the tie. Larger dots can be made by tying the fabric further down so that a larger section of fabric sticks out. a. You can create target-shaped dots by adding more pieces of string on the ends of the pieces that have been tied. Adding more ties will create more rings. b. Try using string that has been dipped in dye before tying it to add an extra ring of colour to the outside of your dots.

4.

Give your fabric a crumpled look. The easiest way to tie dye is to take your fabric
and crumple it up however we would like. It should be very messy and rumpled, not neatly rolled or folded. Then, take as many strings and rubber bands as you would like, and wrap them all over the fabric. You can create a pattern with them, but for the most crumpled look dont follow any direction.

5.

Create pleats. Start at the bottom of your fabric, and fold it upwards in the accordion
style. To do that, you should fold a section towards the front, and then take that section and fold it towards the back. Repeat this pattern until the entire fabric has been folded.

Bandhani:
Indian tie-dye technique Bandhani, also known as Bandhni and Bandhej, is the oldest tiedye tradition we know that is still practiced. The Malay-Indonesian name for this technique is 'Plangi'. The technique involves a design made of dots, in which many small points are tied with thread before immersion dyeing.

Shibori:
Japanese tie-dye (and stitch-dye, fold-dye, and pole wrap-dye) Japanese tie-dye is included among the many techniques of shibori, which has been used for many centuries to make different types of beautiful patterns on cloth used for elaborate kimonos. An excellent resource on this subject is Wada, Rice, and Barton's book.

Mudmee:
Mudmee is a method of tie dyeing from Thailand. It has a particular set of shapes and colours that are traditionally used, and there are usually multiple small motifs across one piece with very fine details in each. One thing that makes mudmee tie dye particularly unique is that it is never done on white fabric; the background is always colours, usually black. This makes for a look that is similar enough to modern multi-coloured tie dye to still be groovy, but it is definitely special. Due to its requirement of strong involvement, this art form is in some danger of becoming extinct.

Finishing Up
The rinsing process is certainly the best part of tie-dye creation. This is the moment you get to see what you have created. Pay close attention to the pattern as it slowly shows itself. This is when you learn exactly which folds created patterns you like and dislike. Place the fabric under a heavy stream of cold water for the initial rinse. Start at the light colours and completely saturate the fabric as quickly as possible. The water dilutes the excess dye, so the colours are less likely to bleed together. Dharma recommends hot water, so after the initial rinsing/saturation, use hot water. Remove the rubber bands and rinse thoroughly. Continue to rinse, wringing and squishing occasionally, until very little colour comes from the fabric and then wash the fabric with a detergent free of chlorine or bleach. Wash in hot water, and then dry on medium heat. Wash the fabric separately at least one more time to keep it from inadvertently staining other clothes.