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By Ozzie Freedom

Book 1-B:
Building the System
Version 6.0
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
THIS BOOK IS COPYI!HT"# TO O$$I" F""#O%&
THIS BOOK %'Y (OT B" SO)#* !I+"( ','Y O #ISTIB-T"# I( '(Y
,'Y* SH'P" O FO%... S"(# YO- FI"(#S TO !"T TH"I O,( COPY
FO% WATER4GAS.COM - TH'(K YO-.
Dear Reader,
Although this /ook is copyrighted, ,0ter1!0s technology is F"" TO -S" for
all your private AND commercial uses (third party products, trademarks and
logos that may be mentioned or linked from this book, are proprietary to their
respective companies).
The distribution of this book was made possible thanks to generous sponsorships
by the following:
The author, Ozzie Freedom www.OzzieFreedom.com
The DVD seller www.Water4GasDVD.com
-0nd 0/o2e 0ll-
www.topNRG.com/sponsor
(see ad next page)
Water4Gas Book 1-B 2
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Water4Gas Book 1-B 3
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Table of Contents -- Book 1-B
Ch03ter 1
#ISC)'I%"S&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&4
Ch03ter 5
B-I)#I(! '( ")"CTO)Y$"&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&11
Ch03ter 6
")"CTO)Y$" P'TS&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&57
Ch03ter 1
")"CTO#"S: 'FFO#'B)" +"Y-HI!H-8-')ITY ')T"('TI+"S TO
ST'I()"SS ST"")&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&61
Ch03ter 9
B-I)#I(! ' +'POI$"&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&64
Ch03ter :
B-I)#I(! ' %'P;%'F S"(SO "(H'(C"&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&16
Ch03ter 4
B-I)#I(! ' F-") H"'T"&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&95
Ch03ter 7
B-I)#I(! ' PC+ "(H'(C"&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&91
Ch03ter <
")"CTO)Y$" I(ST'))'TIO( = %"CH'(IC')&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&94
Ch03ter 1>
")"CTO)Y$" I(ST'))'TIO( = ")"CTIC')&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&:4
Ch03ter 11
")"CTO)Y$" I(ST'))'TIO( = FI(') ST"PS&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&7>
Ch03ter 15
#I"S") I(ST'))'TIO(&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&76
Ch03ter 16
+'POI$" I(ST'))'TIO(&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&7:
Ch03ter 11
%-)TI-C"))&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&<>
Ch03ter 19
PC+ "(H'(C" I(ST'))'TIO(&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&11>
Ch03ter 1:
PC+ "(H'(C" %'I(T"('(C"&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&119
Ch03ter 14
F-") H"'T" I(ST'))'TIO(&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&114
Water4Gas Book 1-B 4
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Ch03ter 17
I(ST'))I(! ")"CTO(IC "(H'(C"S&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&159
Ch03ter 1<
I(ST'))I(! '(# -SI(! TH" CH'!"# ,'T" SYST"%&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&15<
Ch03ter 5>
I(ST'))I(! '(# -SI(! #"+IC"S (OT %"(TIO("# H""&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&167
Ch03ter 51
TOO)S '(# P"+"(TI+" %'I(T"('(C" &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&11>
Ch03ter 55
TO-B)"SHOOTI(! '(# CO"CTI+" %'I(T"('(C"&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&114
Ch03ter 56
F"" ,'T" ? F"" B'KI(! SO#'&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&199
Ch03ter 51
B'KI(! SO#' ')T"('TI+"S&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&194
Ch03ter 59
,H"" TO !"T +"Y-)O,-COST P'TS &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&1:6
Ch03ter 5:
,H'T@S ("ATB&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&146
Ch03ter 54
!)OSS'Y&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&141
Ch03ter 57
-S"F-) "SO-C"S&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&174
Water4Gas Book 1-B 5
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
In the 3re2ious 2olume oC this /ook DBook 1-'E you h0d:
Chapter 1
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Chapter 2
DISCLAIMERS
Chapter 3
STUPID SKEPTICISM VS. INTELLIGENT SKEPTICISM
Chapter 4
WELCOME TO "FREE ENERGY!
Chapter 5
RESPONSIBILITY & CAUSE
Chapter 6
HOW THE OPERATION ALL WORKS
Chapter 7
WHATS IN IT FOR ME?
Chapter 8
ON SAVINGS AND FINANCING
Chapter 9
IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT YOURSELF
Chapter 10
WHAT'S NEXT?
Chapter 11
GLOSSARY
Chapter 12
USEFUL RESOURCES
Water4Gas Book 1-B 6
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 1 CH'PT" 1
#ISC)'I%"S #ISC)'I%"S
THIS BOOK H'S "AP"I%"(T') I(FO%'TIO( THIS BOOK H'S "AP"I%"(T') I(FO%'TIO(
PO+I#"# 'S-IS FO POOF-OF-CO(C"PT P-POS"S PO+I#"# 'S-IS FO POOF-OF-CO(C"PT P-POS"S
THE VIEWS, IDEAS AND INFORMATION PROVIDED IN THIS BOOK REPRESENT TH"
'-THOFS OPI(IO(S AND HAVE NOT BEEN APPROVED BY ANY AUTHORITATIVE
BODY ON SCIENCE, HEALTH OR ECONOMY.
Since the information in this book, as well as on the Publisher's web site, are provided
AS-IS, there is no warranty expressed or implied concerning the suitability of
,0ter1!0s Technology or related information, including tax write-off information and
warranty protection information, for any particular application, circumstance or
geographical area.
THE TECHNOLOGY DESCRIBED AND ILLUSTRATED IN THIS BOOK IS PURELY
EXPERIMENTAL; therefore no specific results can be guaranteed for any model of
vehicle, marine vessel, generator, or for any other purpose or application. Use of this
Technology, as well as related devices or information, is at your very own risk. There is
no warranty that ,0ter1!0s Technology is fit for a particular purpose or area.
Although careful precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the Author
and Publisher(s) shall not be held liable to you for damages, including any general,
special, incidental or consequential damages arising out of the use or inability to use
,0ter1!0s technology, including but not limited to loss or personal injury or losses
sustained by the user or third parties or a failure of the Technology to operate, even if
such holder or other party has been advised of the possibility of such damages.
The Technology is not intended for use in violation of local laws and regulations which
may be applicable to your geographical area. Compliance with any law, where
applicable, is your responsibility. The Author and Publisher(s) and their employees,
executives, distributors and affiliates shall not be held responsible for how your use
,0ter1!0s Technology, related knowledge or any device thereof.
You are charged with the responsibility of experimenting, installing, properly using and
maintaining the workability of ,0ter1!0s Technology. All manufacturers, suppliers,
merchants and mechanics are responsible for their own job and no warranty is given by
the Author or Publisher(s) for their performance or work ethics.
TECH SUPPORT (WHEN AVAILABLE) MAY OR MAY NOT BE PROVIDED BY THE AUTHOR
OR PUBLISHER(S) AS A FREE SERVICE OF GOODWILL. Such service is provided AS-IS
without warranty of any kind. No commitment is either expressed or implied that Tech
Support will be available for any period or length of time, or that it will be helpful in
solving any technical problems.
YO- I!HTS '(# "SPO(SIBI)ITI"S YO- I!HTS '(# "SPO(SIBI)ITI"S
,0ter1!0s Technology is based on public domain and Open Source philosophy and
cannot be patented as far as the Author knows.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 7
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
You are hereby given permission to replicate and sell, without requirement for further
written permission, any device, system or service relating to ,0ter1!0s Technology
BUT NOT THE INFORMATIONAL PRODUCTS (e.g., this book/s and the DVDs) AND/OR
LOGOS AND/OR TRADEMARKS of the Author and Publisher(s). Such permission includes
the permission to replicate the devices and methods illustrated in this book, as well as
permission for full free use (including alterations) of the related manufacturing data and
replication data. In case of intellectual property, patent or trademark belonging to a
third party, you must communicate directly with their respective owners to obtain usage
permission.
The Publisher(s) retain their right and the choice to refuse service and/or support to any
reader, visitor, affiliate, vendor, manufacturer or mechanic, regardless of their payment
or refund (if any).
The Author and Publisher(s) retain the freedom to change and improve ,0ter1!0s
Technology, its informational products and delivery methods at any given time. This
technological field is constantly evolving, therefore CHANGES SHOULD BE EXPECTED for
the good of all.
Being a ,0ter1!0s experimenter and user is an honorary status, providing you with
the opportunity to protect the environment and help the economy of your country. It is
permissible and very agreeable to generate extra income selling the Technology to
others or to voluntarily help others to use the Technology. However, NO PART of the
Technology, related materials or information may be promoted or distributed in order to
ridicule the Technology or to lower its public image or usability in any way, and such
behavior would result in immediate exclusion from access and participation, as well as
possible legal action submitted against the offender. Experimenters, Members, Affiliates
and Vendors are charged with the responsibility of honorably representing the
Technology and its users, as well as the Author and the Publisher(s).
THE AUTHOR AND PUBLISHER(S) EXPRESSLY WISH TO HAVE ONLY SATISFIED
STUDENTS AND AFFILIATIONS. IF FOR ANY REASON YOU DO NOT AGREE WITH THE
TERMS AND CONDITIONS OFFERED ABOVE, OR IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS OR
RESERVATIONS REGARDING THE VALIDITY OF THE TECHNOLOGY, OR IF YOU ARE NOT
WILLING TO TAKE THE RISKS AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF BEING AN EXPERIMENTER,
DO NOT USE THIS BOOK OR ANY OF THE LINKS PROVIDED IN IT.
)"!')ITY )"!')ITY
WARNING! DO NOT TAKE THIS TEXT AS LEGAL ADVICE! The text below has the Author's
interpretation of basic laws and an expression of his opinions on issues of legality.
,0ter1!0s is not a specific product - but a gener0l GonGe3t or a set of ideas on how
to save the environment and possibly save some money too. Every experimenter is free
to make changes and versions of ,0ter1!0s Technology. Additionally, this book gives
several versions and options. For these reasons, it can be seen that the Technology is
3urely eH3eriment0l and is totally in the hands of the reader or user.
,0ter1!0s Technology cannot be sent for government "approval because the average
experimenter is going to change it while experimenting, even if only by a little bit. It's
not 0 C0Gtory item with a finite set of specifications. Maybe it will never be.
To this, add the fact that any of the ,0ter1!0s devices are tem3or0rily 0tt0Ghed to
the vehicle - for experimenting - and can be removed quickly at any given time. Each
Water4Gas Book 1-B 8
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
such attachment is a TEMPORARY ATTACHMENT, not a modification of the vehicle. It's
like adding a removable awning or a removable glass door to your porch - you don't
need a building permit since you haven't modified the house. Some cities would limit
what type of EXTERNAL "cosmetics you can add to the outer walls (this could be likened
to the prohibition to attach crazy flashing lights to a public-road vehicle). But no city or
landlord may prevent you from placing a temporary room divider, or any other internal,
non-permanent attachment.
Besides, in the past few years the ,0ter1!0s books have already been used by
developers and inventors as an inspiration for further developments, in the fields of
HEATING/COOKING with water-fuel, efficiency enhancements of GENERATORS AND
BOAT ENGINES, etc. Therefore it can be seen that this Technology and knowledge
should not be taken in the limited scope of "you-must-do-this-to-your-vehicle, but in
the broader context of inspiration and general education on what G0n be done.
Additionally - and you may verify this with your lawyer - legalities of the road are very
different from legalities of the sea, farm equipment and energy generators.
Bottom line: either you take the viewpoint of 0n eH3eriment done /y the indi2idu0l
which CANNOT therefore be approved 0s 0 3roduGt* or you take the viewpoint of
tem3or0ry 0tt0Ghment* either way you haven't modified the vehicle and you are
welcome to experiment. If you want to remove the device or system before a smog test,
go ahead and do that. The tester doesn't want to bother with experiments and he's right
- it's not his job and not his expertise to evaluate experimental technology.
In case your mechanic is leery of losing his license because HE believes that the
Technology might be illegal, let him make his own decisions. The responsibility must
always stay with the experimenter - you. Not the mechanic. If you happen to need HELP
from a mechanic, let the mechanic ASSIST you but not do the entire job for you.
For instance if the experimenter is comfortable with the electrical connections, let him or
her do that; and if he or she is only comfortable with the mechanical attachment, let
him/her do that. In short, let it be the experimenter's project at their very own risk - he
or she must (in my humble opinion) sign 0 li0/ility I0i2er releasing the mechanic of
any liability. The experimenter (the owner of the vehicle or property) must take the
ENTIRE RISK in writing.
So we basically have the following three principles:
1.EXPERIMENTAL: This technology is
experimental and eer!changing.
".TEMP#RAR$: It%s not a modi&ication '(t a
temporary attachment.
).*A+EAT EMPT#R ,Latin &or -Let the '(yer
'e.are-/: There m(st 'e no lia'ility on the
merchant or the mechanic. As in Roman times0
the 1(yer ta2es all the ris2.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 9
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
,''(TY POT"CTIO( ,''(TY POT"CTIO(
The book "Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies by Wiley Publishing, Inc. advocates that
hacking or modding (modifying) your vehicle does NOT automatically cancel your
warranty. In the article "Keeping Your Mod's Warranty Intact the book tells you how
and what to do - and what NOT to do (such as messing with the VIN number). Get that
book at www.water4gas.com/1/hacksmods.htm
Abstract: American vehicle owners and aftermarket enthusiasts have the help and
protection of a lobbying organization named SEMA - Specialty Equipment Market
Association. SEMA represents the aftermarket products manufacturers, wholesalers,
retailers and distributors in North America. Their main achievement as far as the sale
and use of aftermarket products is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty - Federal Trade
Commission Improvement Act of 1975 (in short "Magnuson-Moss Act) which protects
consumers from being wrongfully denied warranty coverage by new car dealers or
manufacturers (whoever covers the warranty or warranties). For example, if your axle
has broken down, they cannot deny warranty only because you have installed an
aftermarket GPS, or a pollution reducer, or a better radio.
Sounds obvious? It wasn't obvious before the Magnuson-Moss Act.
,H'T ," K(O, '(# ,H'T ," #O(@T ,H'T ," K(O, '(# ,H'T ," #O(@T
This book does not pretend to be a scientific research or scientific teaching. It is only 0
reGord oC the 'uthor@s Cindings 0nd 0Gtu0l eH3eriment0tion& Therefore, if you find
scientific inaccuracies anywhere in this book, please bear in mind that these descriptions
and explanations are aimed at simplicity and ease of application rather than "scientific
truth.
Here's a real-life example: Today I was told that our usage of the term "Brown's Gas is
very far from scientific truth... The self-appointed "expert claimed that if you took the
world's top-5 scientists and researchers on the subject, and asked them for their expert
opinion on "Brown's Gas, they would give you five TOTALLY DIFFERENT explanations.
Oh well. So what does that mean for us? That we cannot use this term???
For us, the term "scientific truth means:
(a) -Ih0t IorkedB
(b) -Ih0t didn@t IorkB
- or, in other words, our knowledge and certainty is based solely on RESULTS. Whether
we can or cannot eH3l0in it "properly is not the issue. Our scientific truth is simply
this: "S-)TSJSCI"(TIFIC T-TH
For example, if you drink a glass of tea and it relieves your thirst e2ery time, then (for
you) it is a workable technique to relieve thirst. Can you explain how tea works, to the
fullest extent of micro-organisms and chemical reactions between sub-atomic particles
inside your super-complex body? I don't think so.
Does the fact that you cannot EXPLAIN tea defy the workability of tea???
What do you think? If you think it defies workability, then don't read this book any
further. Because this book comes from the Land of Results and not from the Land of
Theories.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 10
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 5 CH'PT" 5
B-I)#I(! '( ")"CTO)Y$" B-I)#I(! '( ")"CTO)Y$"
)"T@S !"T F'%I)I' ,ITH TH" ")"CTO)Y$" )"T@S !"T F'%I)I' ,ITH TH" ")"CTO)Y$"
The Electrolyzer is the heart of the system that generates HHO and cools down the
engine:
FO #I"S") 'PP)IC'TIO(S only one out3ut hose is neGess0ry out oC e0Gh
"leGtrolyzer& P0rt 1 is not neGess0ry either& %ore det0ils in Book 6* dediG0ted to
#iesels&
The base of the device is, of course, the jar itself (not numbered here) and then the rest
is build on the white plastic cap, the jar lid. The lid carries the Bubbler Cap (1) that lets
air in from the atmosphere and regulates the bubbling, electrical terminals (2) and (3)
that let the electric power enter the electrodes (5).
The electrodes (5) are stainless steel wires wrapped around an acrylic "tower (the light
red part in the photo, that can be any other color).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 11
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
There is also Valve (4) which is for safety, and one or two output Valves (6). The output
hoses are two short, usually 6 long, pieces of vacuum hose. [Again, only one hose for
diesel and one output valve (6) for diesel]. Valves (6) are not glued to the jar lid for
maintenance convenience - sometimes they need to be removed for cleaning or
replacement.
C)'IFIC'TIO( "!'#I(! TH" CH"CK +')+"S
Referring to the valves shown as parts number 4 number 6 highlighted below:
Many readers have asked me about Part 4, the Pressure Release Valve; seemingly it is
the most misunderstood part - so let me explain a bit more. It is there for safety
reasons only. In normal operation, it is dormant, inactive. This is a "check valve",
meaning it will allow air/liquid flow in one direction only. In our application, we glue it on
top of the device POINTING UPWARD. It will let air flow OUT but not in.
What for? In normal operation, the engine sucks all the HHO out of the device. Just in
case the engine stops doing that, or for some reason there is a blockage of the output
hose, we DO NOT WANT PRESSURE BUILDUP inside the device. If pressure starts to
build up inside (water expands into gas) the Pressure ele0se +0l2e will release that
pressure into the atmosphere (once HHO mixes with atmospheric air, it will not be
explosive).
So again, this is a check valve
pointing upward - or in other
words letting flow out of the
device but not in. In normal
operation the vacuum inside the
device will make sure that the
Pressure ele0se +0l2e stays
closed at all times.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 12
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Part 4 in the big photo is borrowed from aquarium technology and I got it from a fish
store. In modern designs I've replaced it with a smaller, more accurate yet Ghe03er
check valve. It is the small blue valve in the small diagram above, which I found in a
medical supplies catalog. Nowadays they refuse to sell in small quantities, but you can
still buy them cheaply at www.Water4Gas.com
Remember that all three check valves - Part #4 and Part #6 - are both pointing
O-TI0rd of the jar. The valve on top acts as a pressure release valve, to be opened
only in the rare case of totally clogged (both) lines, in which case we do not want
pressure build up inside the device.
Why are the output valves (6) necessary? When coming to install the Electrolyzer, one
popular way is to use BOTH of its HHO outputs and we'll go over it in details in the
installation chapter. However, the importance of these added valves is to prevent
backflow between the engine's intake manifold and its air intake. Usually only one valve
would be open, allowing flow only to one of the outputs, depending on throttle position.
This tells you that in diesel installations you will not need any check valve at all, but it is
better that you read Book 6 KThe #iesel BookL before going into diesels.
P'TS )IST P'TS )IST
The most complete, most recent and fully developed list of low-cost parts is given at the
end of this book. In there, you will see ALL parts of the all ,0ter1!0s devices, nicely
organized by device and optimized for mass production.
However, the following section will help you get more reality and details on the
gathering and choices of parts for building and installing the Electrolyzer.
The next Chapter "ELECTROLYZER PARTS" tells you all about the replacement parts
necessary to fix the system, and exactly where to get them. It is important for
maintenance, and also to get further familiarized with the parts of the Electrolyzer.
You have online and offline options which will be significantly different according to:
Your physical distance from good hardware stores and craft stores,
The quantities you wish to manufacture.
Generally, allow me to assume that you will not be starting from large-scale
manufacturing. You will probably choose to start from small quantities and grow as you
go. Wise decision! If you ask me, this is the only healthy way.
OK, if so then you don't need to go online and get dirt-cheap high-volume prices. Just
visit the local shops and buy small quantities as needed.
What you will need for the Electrolyzer is listed below. However, you've already seen
that there are variants such as diesel, and you will also need glues and tools, so don't go
right ahead and buy everything - first study this book and get yourself familiar with the
details and procedures.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 13
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
M You may use Stainless Steel grade 302 or grade 304 for the "Cathode (the minus
voltage wire), but grade 316L is essential for the "Anode (the plus voltage wire). If
you're going to use both metal types in one device, it is important to always make note
which is which. Also remember to put a RED wingnut on the bolt connected to the 316L
wire, and a BLACK wingnut on the 302/304 wire (these are simple wingnuts from the
hardware store, and I spray them with red and black paint).
NOTE: USING 316L IS THE ENVIRONMENT-FRIENDLY CHOICE! BUT MAKE SURE IT IS
INDEED 316L AND NOT THE SO-CALLED "316L USED FOR WELDING (WHICH IS VERY,
VERY HARD AND IS CHEMICALLY DIFFERENT).
The reason I suggest using two types of wire is to save costs in mass production. If
you're building a small number of units, stick to 0ll 61:) Cor sim3liGity& The difference
in cost per device may be a couple dollars at most. This will also allow to switch polarity
after several months of use (when the anode has been partially corroded), and gain
extra durability or in other words DOUBLE the lifespan of each Electrolyzer.
MM Wire length needed depends on the structure and measurements of your tower!!!
Sixty inches of wire is good for two lengths (remember, you have two electrodes), 30
each. This is enough for ONE (unbraided) wire winding around the tower at about 1/2
inch steps and leaving about 1 inch bare at the top. TO BE SURE HOW MUCH YOU NEED,
MEASURE IT FIRST with a string or tape.
The wire diameter I used was 0.035", however this is not a critical measurement. If you
have a thin wire, you can double it or even triple it for durability (and for better contact
with the water).
Experiment with your design until you get the length right.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 14
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
MMM Many readers asked where to get the "ribbed anchor" - they've been asking all
over town and nobody knew what a ribbed anchor was or where to get one. Well, this is
the simplest and cheapest part of the entire design, and can be found in almost every
home. It's one of those small anchors that you use to hang pictures with. When you (or
a technician) drill a hole in the wall, you place a little plastic thing inside, to hold the
screw. That's the anchor!
Instead of an anchor, you may use an aquarium bubbler stone, or a small irrigation
diffuser or aquarium diffuser. As long as it is small enough to stick into a 1/4" hose, and
can diffuse the air into smaller bubbles, it's good.
The list above makes one Electrolyzer. The parts and materials to make it work, such as
wiring and catalyst, will be described later in the installation chapter.
%'(-F'CT-I(! TOO)S %'(-F'CT-I(! TOO)S
The following list is not mandatory. This is simply what I have found useful and time
saving when I was mass-producing Electrolyzers:
Self-locking long-nose pliers, small
Regular pliers, preferably thick long-nose 3-4
Wire cutters
Open wrench (or ring wrench), size to fit your screws and bolts
Electric drill
drill bits: and 7/32
Solder iron
Caliper or accurate ruler
Sanding paper, thin
Terminal crimper
Glue: Plumbing Goop and Super
Glue (or Crazy Glue)
Gas mask as described below.
%'(-F'CT-I(! %'(-F'CT-I(!
POC"#-" POC"#-"
,'(I(!: Some oC the 3roGedures
oCCered /eloI Gre0te toHiG Cumes*
suGh 0s soldering or strong glues&
,ork in 0 Iell 2entil0ted 0re0 0nd do
not inh0le these Cumes. Hey - I me0n
it = es3eGi0lly !oo3N h0s 0 2ery
2iolent smell. ,h0t I use to 3re2ent
he0lth h0z0rds is this O5>&11
res3ir0tory 3roteGtion m0sk th0t I got
Crom 0 loG0l 'irg0sN sho3 DIelding
su33liesE& The one shoIn is 0 :5>>
Water4Gas Book 1-B 15
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
h0lC-m0sk Iith 0 30ir oC :>>1 G0rtridges DCiltersE* m0de /y 6%N& You G0n Cind it
online* 0nd iC you get 0 diCCerent model m0ke sure it G0n h0ndle toHiG g0ses.
Get all the parts and supplies. The parts list chapter at the end of this book has all the
sources online/offline and estimated prices for USA.
Start with creating the lid of the jar. This is the basis upon which everything else will be
build on. It should be a plastic lid otherwise you're going to create an electrical short
that would burn the fuse every time.
It is possible to use the original, metallic lid that comes with the jar. But the electrical
problem mentioned above require several insulated washers and special attention. It's
not worth the price of a plastic lid if you can get one for the jar type you're using. In the
USA and Canada quart-size jars are standard; in other countries use what's available or
order American made "Ball jars (also called "Mason Jars) from www.Amazon.com or
from one of the vendors at www.Water4Gas.com
Pre30ring the lid
Clean the plastic lid of any dust and especially the
oily layer left by its manufacturing process. I'd use
vodka because it's less toxic than acetone and
chemical alcohols.
If there's a little bump in the middle of the plastic lid
(bottom side), flatten it using a soldering iron. But
be careful not to puncture the lid!
My son invented an alternative technique that
worked well for him: If you do not have a soldering
iron handy, use a dis3os0/le sh02ing r0zor to cut
off the bump. Place the razor on the bump and
move it left and right like a knife.
%0king the holes
Mark and drill holes in the lid. Use the template provided below - print it to scale and
drill through the printout. The measurements are not critical but try to be as close as
possible to the template. Distances are based on functionality and ease of construction
alike. Note that two different drill bits are required. In absence of a drill, make the holes
using a solder iron.
WARNING: Using a solder iron or any other heating element on the plastic will definitely
create toxic fumes. ,ork in 0 Iell 2entil0ted 0re0 0nd do not inh0le the Cumes -
place a fan behind you or sideways and let the fumes flow away from your face. For
optimum health safety use the gas mask described above.
Refer to the diagram below for marking correct hole location:
The upper two holes (A+B), each, are for the elbows (HHO outputs).
A bit lower on the center line (C), 7/32, is for the check valve hole.
The two holes on the horizontal line (D+E), each, for the terminal bolts.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 16
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
The lower single hole (F), 7/32, is for the Bubbler Cap (air inlet).
Pre30ring Cor glue
Clean the holes. Using thin sand paper roughen a small area around each hole, from the
upper and lower sides, so the glue can later on stick better to the surfaces. I do this step
with a piece of sanding paper glued to a cork driven by an electric drill, as shown in the
photo below. The cork is held in the drill by a bamboo stick, which also serves as a
guide:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 17
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
ConstruGtion
Glue two flat washers onto the lid's holes D and E, upper side, using Super Glue. You
can use Goop as well, but I chose Super Glue for its fast curing time and its thinness.
If you prefer to work with Goop, use a THIN layer and let it cure WITH PRESSURE for 24
hours before proceeding.
Insert and glue one barbed "elbow onto the 6 vacuum hose, using Goop. At the other
end insert one barbed coupling (without glue). Make two of these.
Using Plumbers Goop or J-B Weld (in Australia: DynaGrip QuikSteel Paste), insert
and glue onto the lid, the HHO outputs (the two barb elbows with the two 6 vacuum
hoses).
Secure the bottom part of each elbows (under the lid) with nut, screwed on using
pliers and glued with Goop. It's quite tricky; in order to succeed you must grip the nut
strongly using a small Vice Grip pliers (self-locking long-nose pliers works best here),
while supporting the elbow with the other hand.
Tie the hoses together using a cable tie (make sure not to over-tighten since that will
block free gas flow).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 18
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Secure the nuts to the elbows with small bits of Crazy Glue, on the visible part of each
nut's thread:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 19
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Using Plumbers Goop or J-B Weld/QuikSteel, insert and glue the check valve onto the
lid. The check valve may be fastened (lower side of lid) with a self-locking nut or a small
piece of tubing (0.17 inner diameter) glued with Crazy Glue (Super Glue). Do it quickly
while the goop is still wet, and support the check valve with your other hand so it
doesn't fall off the lid.
As explained below, we glue the check valve on top of the device POINTING UPWARD so
it will let gas OUT but not in.
When you build the device, then, make sure this check valve, the Pressure Release
Valve, points outward. Both of its ends must be open. Do not connect it to any hose,
tubing, cap, or anything else.
Secure the parts with more Goop if necessary, as shown in the photo below.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 20
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
ToIer 0nd "leGtrodes
Now build a Plexiglas core (or "Tower) for the electrodes: cut two pieces of 3/16 to
thick Plexiglas with slots cut halfway as shown in the diagram below, so they can slide
into each other.
The optimal outside
dimensions we've found
for each Plexiglas piece
are 2.15 width by 5.75
length.
The two parts shown
dove-tail into each other
but gluing the two parts is
optional - gluing will help
to ease up the rest of the
procedure.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 21
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
The drawing below illustrates an optional way of building the tower. You'll need accurate
cutting. Join the parts using Plexiglas cement (www.ridoutplastics.com)
You may choose to glue the Plexiglas "tower to the lid. I used to do it but now I skip
this step; instead, strong attachment of the tower is achieved by threading the upper
ends of both electrodes through the 6;1:L holes& This also allows the lid to flex under
strong vacuum. Gluing the tower to the lid seldom holds for a long time.
Now cut a length of stainless steel wire (we discussed length near the beginning of the
chapter). In my design I usually use 60 piece Cor e0Gh eleGtrode and fold it in half.
Place the middle point (the fold) of the wire on a bolt, and tie it around the bolt (one
or two turns).
NOTE: In later models I started /r0iding (by simple twist) the electrode using a
doubled-on 316L stainless steel wire. Which means I'm using 4 times the amount of wire
(120), two 60 pieces folded in four and then braiding it using an electric drill (with
some patience you can also braid it manually using self locking pliers).
The piece holding the other end of the wire must be a bolt, since the wire sometimes
winds tightly on the bolt, so it can be readily use as a set: wire+bolt. I drill a hole in
a piece of wood and stick the bolt in that hole. The finished product looks something like
Water4Gas Book 1-B 22
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
this:

Insert the bolt into the lid, add a split washer, (and a flat washer if it's not glued on the
lid already) and a 1/4 nut. I tighten it using moderate hand force with a wrench (upper
side of lid) and an angled wrench or self-locking pliers (bottom side). Refer to the
diagram below for correct parts placement:
Insert the loose end of the electrode you've made above, through one of the 3/16 holes
in the "tower. Then position the tower in its final place under the lid (bottom, center).
Using one hand to stretch the electrode wire and the other hand to hold the tower, start
winding the electrode (the two wires together) in a spiral motion down the tower. Start
with a strong pitch (step) down the tower and then slow down to a 3/4 pitch.
When you arrive at the lower part of the tower, secure the edge of the electrode using
pliers. Make sure it winds evenly and tightly around the core. Look at a sample
Electrolyzer, if you have one. Some practice is required to achieve the desired result,
and in my DVD I show exactly how I do it.
Repeat the last steps for the second electrode.
When you're done, make sure the wires are straight. Inspect the result: the electrodes
should wind down with a distance of 3/8 between them most of the way down. It starts
with about of an inch gap and comes closer together to 3/8 from the second tap or
so, as the electrodes get down to the submerged area.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 23
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
The photo below will give you a fairly good idea how the finished result should look like:
Now glue the electrodes wherever they touch the tower. Use PLUMBERS GOOP or
MARINE GOOP (I'm told by several people that HOUSEHOLD GOOP is just as good but
that would have to stand the test of time). A thin to moderate layer of GOOP is all it
takes as long as the wire is covered with glue on both sides.
,'(I(!: #O (OT B"'TH" TH" F-%" OF !OOP& It is toHiG& ,ork in 0 Iell
2entil0ted 0re0 -SI(! ' %'SK&
The glue cures in minutes - but let it acquire its full strength - I0it 51 hours /eCore
use. Let it cure in a well ventilated area, away from children, adults and pets.
Prepare the bubbling tube by cutting 6 clear vinyl or irrigation-type non-clear tubing
(0.17 inner diameter). Insert a small anchor into the lower edge of this tubing. This is
where the bubbling would come out, so make sure enough air can flow through the
anchor. I cut off a portion of its sharper side (about 1/3), before inserting it into the
tubing.
Glue the air inlet using Goop.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 24
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
From the bottom of the lid, insert and glue the bubbler tubing onto the lower part of the
air inlet. The tubing should be secured to the lid with a small amount of Plumbers Goop
(don't clog the opening!)
Secure the loose end of this tubing to one of the electrodes, using a small cable tie:
Add wingnuts to both bolts. If you made the electrodes from two different metals, %'K"
S-" TH" "# ,I(!(-T CO(("CTS TO TH" '(O#" (I don't think you can buy
them in color - spray or paint regular wingnuts with fast-drying red and black paint).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 25
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Fin0l 'ssem/ly
Carefully inspect the finished unit for missing parts/glue, loose connections or clogged
tubing.
Insert the finished unit into a wide-mouth canning jar.
Many experimenters have found that they were having a hard time getting the white
plastic lid to properly seal the jar - unless you apply great force to it (and sometimes
even that doesn't prevent leaks). To get a tight vacuum seal with less effort, use a
rubber O-ring or gasket inside the lid (where it touches the top of the jar). Some use
gaskets made to order from EDPM (Ethylene-Propylene-Diene Monomer which is uncured
rubber), neoprene (synthetic rubber) or natural rubber, and others use "Form-a-Gasket"
which is a paste type product available in auto parts stores and Ace Hardware.
For myself, I visited www.Water4Gas.com and ordered a set of ready-made gaskets. The
price was so low that wasn't worth the trouble of making them. They work well.
Use the following wiring diagram to manufacture the wiring harness. For improved
safety place the short part of the fuse holder facing spade terminal (Why? Just in case
there is 12 volts live on the wire, it will be protected by the fuse holder casing).
You're done with the Electrolyzer! And ready to pass the core of ,0ter1!0s technology
for the benefit of many others.
I have seen many Electrolyzer designs, too many to count. Some look very impressive
AND work well. So why do I recommend the one shown here?
Both the structure and the manufacturing process given above took ye0rs of developing
and more importantly sim3liCying& It is carefully calculated to facilitate and balance
many factors, such as Gost* e0se oC 033liG0tion 0nd Cin0l 3roduGt CunGtion0lity&
DUPLICATION is key, as well as AFFORDABILITY. Yet it is never perfect and ,0ter1!0s
experimenters keep upgrading it all the time. If you find - after practice - that certain
steps can be improved or eased up, please expose your knowledge and improvements in
the community forums at www.water4Gas.com
The procedure given in this chapter does not require special machines or skills; it can be
taught in local classes, workshops or even professional schools anywhere in the world!
Water4Gas Book 1-B 26
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
I personally taught six classes of boys and girls in a local high school, and the students
did well.
The more we teach it, the more we're protected from loss of this valuable technology.
And the more we open the doors to the public DEMANDING higher levels of free-energy
systems and automotive improvements. The electric hybrid cars we have today were not
created from the goodwill of Big Industry, but from the efforts of experimenters and
environment-conscious folks like yourself :-)
B"ST TO," B"ST TO,"
For easy winding of the electrodes on the tower, I now cut grooves into its edges, as
shown in the photo below. This helps tremendously when winding the electrodes, and
also eliminates the need to glue the wire to the Plexiglas. The grooves are usually cut at
intervals (requiring more wire but creates stronger electrolysis). I believe it can be
purchased at www.water4Gas.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 27
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 6 CH'PT" 6
")"CTO)Y$" P'TS ")"CTO)Y$" P'TS
NOTE: a concise list of parts is now provided as disc number 8 of the new ,0ter1!0s
DVD Set, and also given freely at the end of this book.
Garden Drip Irrigation (Arizona) and Dripworks (California) have dedicated special
pages for ,0ter1!0s parts:
http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm
http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/h2o4gas.php
)O,-COST CO(ST-CTIO(;"P)'C"%"(T P'TS )O,-COST CO(ST-CTIO(;"P)'C"%"(T P'TS
The !l0ss;Pl0stiG P0r
I obtain these jars from my local Orchard Supply Hardware (OSH) store, sold usually by
the dozen. Jar type is important - ask for "Wide Mouth Mason
Jars or "Wide Mouth Canning Jars.
Orchard Supply Hardware (OSH)
6450 Via Del Oro, San Jose, CA 95119
Phone: (408) 281-3500, website: www.OSH.com
Note that although these jars look fragile, they are made from
highly dur0/le gl0ss that will probably outlive the entire
system! When I say "highly durable glass" I don't mean they are
special jars. These are regular canning jars from the grocery
store. Yet they are very strong. With careful care they will
outlive the entire car! Just dont hit them with a heavy wrench or
something. (remove from vehicle if violent mechanics are going
to work on it).
THESE JARS ARE MADE OF TAMPERED GLASS - DO NOT USE
CHEAP SUBSTITUTES.
I have seen jars of similar same size that LOOK better but are more fragile. They come
with better looking plastic lids that, again, are not as durable as the plastic made by
Ball. So don't compromise and insist on Ball Mason Jars wherever available.
P)'STIC P' OPTIO(: use only water filer
container! The good type usually measures or
10 or 12 in length and 5.25 in width, and
may be obtained for about $20-$25 from
hardware stores or water filtration supplies.
DO NOT USE CHEAP PLASTIC JARS MADE FOR
HOLDING COOKIES OR SOMETHING - ONLY
Water4Gas Book 1-B 28
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
USE HIGHLY DURABLE CONTAINERS SHOWN HERE - OR CONTAINERS OF EQUAL OR
BETTER DURABILITY.
The P0r )id
there are two options here, each with its unique advantages. You can use the original
metal lid that comes with each jar (cheap and immediate but adds complexity because
you'll have to isolate at least one of the electrode terminals).
Its up to you and some experimenters use only the metal lids, however I prefer the
3l0stiG lids for simplicity - order from:
Kitchen Krafts, PO Box 442, Waukon, Iowa 52172
Phone: 800-776-0575, website: www.kitchenkrafts.com
Order item PG0182 Widemouth size. DON'T order #PG0181
- it's the wrong width! Sold in packs of eight.
Alternative sources:
1. Canning Pantry http://www.canningpantry.com/bawimoplstca.html
2. Find Goodman's shop at Amazon.com
3. Visit www.Water4Gas.com
S0Cety ele0se CheGk +0l2e
"Check valves are one-way air activated valves, used for aquariums, medical uses and
others. They can be found in almost any aquarium supply store for about $3 each.
Online they can be obtained from www.fish.com (Item 701019) or from
www.arcatapet.com or from www.Water4Gas.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 29
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Alternative sources:
Item # 64048 from www.usplastic.com
Item A1175 ($1.50) from MPC: http://www.mpc-inc.com
or search www.MPCvalves.com
or search Google for "plastic check valve" Iith the quote marks.
HHO-Out3ut CheGk +0l2es
(on the output hose or hoses) - these check valves are built for HI-FLOW and unlike the
aquarium check valves (as in the photo above), will open at lower pressure, which is
good for our use. The best and cheapest is R-723 from http://www.resenex.com/r-
723.php -- for free product samples call 818 341-2525 or Toll Free (USA): 800
220.1876. Fax 818 885-8086. You'll get free samples only if you intend to buy
commercial quantities. Otherwise, find them at www.Water4Gas.com
Alternative sources:
www.usplastic.com item 64048
Item A1175 from MPC
Search www.MPCvalves.com
Search Google for "plastic check valve" Iith the quote marks.
Pl0stiG Cou3lings
"TEE "ELBOW COUPLING
I rarely use the "Tee but you may see it in some models, and you may find it useful for
your design. I usually use the "Elbow and the straight coupling. These are all barb
tubing adapters used to connect pipes together. They can be found in almost any
aquarium supply store or irrigation/gardening supplies (Home Depot, OSH, etc.)
You can order them online from www.AquaticEco.com (part # 62064), phone orders 1-
877-347-4788.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 30
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Another place to order online is www.imperialinc.com (item 37365). I prefer the "elbow
design, get at Home Depot for about $0.15 each. For a double HHO output use two of
those per jar.
It could look like the one in the picture or similar, or "barb type similar to the Tee
shown above. Its good as long as it can connect two pipes or tubing of each.
+0Guum Hose D0utomoti2eE
Irrigation and aquarium type hoses (usually clear vinyl) are not
durable and not recommended. The cheap price is tempting, but
these types are not resistant enough to engine heat, and may be
punctured by a hot part, creating a safety hazard and lack of
performance.
The black rubber hose is 2ery dur0/le for under-the-hood
conditions of extreme temperatures and chemicals. Get at Auto
Zone, or order item 95922 from Imperial (I used to get 50-ft spools
for $15.50 when ordering in quantity - great service by the way):
Im3eri0l Su33lies ))C
S0les #e3t& D7>>E997-57>7
47< 'rmed ForGes #ri2e* PO BoH 11>>7
!reen B0y* ,I 916>4-1>>7
www.imperialinc.com
NOTE: I used their 7/32" ID vacuum hose (part number 95922) with success. However,
it does not a provide a firm grip of the 1/4" barbed irrigation fittings. If you need a snug
fit ask for a 5/32" vacuum hose (part number 95921).
Bu//ler C03
This is the air inlet or "Bubbling Adjuster Cap". This is a simple
adjustable irrigation cap - order it online
http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm
http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/h2o4gas.php
I also found this exact same item in the irrigation dept of Home Depot, paired in small
bags marked "Adjustable Dripper" (model B02B, sold in pairs for about $1.30)
Alternative source for the dripper, part number D031:
http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_irrigation_info.php?products_id=371
The Drip Store, 980 Park Center, Ste. E, Vista, CA 92081
Telephone: 760 597-1669 (Toll Free: 877 597-1669), Fax: 760 597-1673
Water4Gas Book 1-B 31
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
"leGtrodes
The electrodes inside the device are made from stainless steel wire, which is spiraled
and glued around a core of plexiglas. Never use aluminum or copper wires - these are
great electricity conductors, but they would be destroyed by the electrolysis process.
Stainless steel wire may be obtained from Harbor Freight for $4.49 (item 8895-4VGA).
Galvanized wire may work for a SHORT while but will create a lot of mud fast, and is not
half as durable as stainless steel. A cheap 20-gauge galvanized steel wire may be
obtained from Home Depot (barcode 49223501345). (ot reGommended& Once you see
the amount of dirt it creates, believe me, you wouldn't want to use it.
%0rine su33ly Iire: item 755410 (20 gauge, $2.99) at
www.Defender.com or item SLWQ041 from West Marine. Or walk into
a marine store and ask for "Stainless Locking Wire.
Better wire (19-gauge stainless steel) that's cost effective for small
quantities is www.NatMan.com - use their website to locate hardware
stores near you. Item N264-705 (barcode 3861326470-0). For about
$4.20 you get 30 ft ($1.40/unit).
In April 2007 I started to make the anode (positive electrode, red
wingnut) doubled and braided, in an attempt to slow down anode
oxidation. In Pune 5>>4 I sIitGhed to 0 diCCerent steel Cor the
0node th0t sol2ed the 3ro/lem Cor most eH3erimenters = gr0de 61:) inste0d oC
gr0de 6>5;6>1&
The 316L is good for both electrodes, however when mass-producing them, using the
302/304 for the cathode could save some money. If you prefer to use only one type of
metal, use 316L. Grade 316L is much better suitable for underwater conditions. I order
it from Sunset ,ire (now called GDC) out of Fontana, California. Phone orders only 1-
888-285-3919. %inimum order O9>, discount on quantities.
Another source for 316L is %G%0ster-C0rr (mcmaster.com ) , phone (562) 463-4277.
McMaster-Carr are not as cheap as Sunset Wire but are very organized. When you visit
their website just search for "316L and it will lead you through the options.
Best 'node ProteGtion Solutions - 'ltern0ti2e "leGtrodes
In the neHt Gh03ter you will find details and sources for alternative anode metals.
Termin0ls
The electrical terminals on the lid are made from standard 1/4 screws, regular hex
nuts, washers and wing nuts on top. Find all those at the hardware department of Home
Depot, ACE or any hardware store. For eHtr0 dur0/ility I used st0inless steel 30rts
for those components that touch water - bolts and nuts.
The wing nuts may be painted black and red for clarity.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 32
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
O-ings
for a better sealing lid, add a rubber O-ring (or neoprene gasket) inside the lid. For
material selection visit http://www.everyoring.com/pages/O-ring_material.html
and for size selection see http://www.allorings.com/size_cross_reference_framed.htm
The cost per unit is roughly 50 cents. I think the perfect size is 2 mm in thickness, and
OUTER diameter of 3.4 inch (86 mm). Since standard O-rings are sold by INNER
diameter, you have to experiment with the O-rings available locally. The slightly larger-
diameter choice (that still fits) will seal better and will not fall out of place during
assembly or maintenance. The cheapest I have found so far is from Grainger:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1KLG2 which is $11.55 for a pack of 50. The
material "Buna-N" has good resistance to petroleum hydrocarbons, oils, fuels and
alcohol. Its temperature range is -40 F to +250 F which is good for our purposes.
,H"" TO !"T H'#-TO-FI(# P'TS '(# ,H"" TO !"T H'#-TO-FI(# P'TS '(#
"P)'C"%"(T P'TSB "P)'C"%"(T P'TSB
Your stating point is given in a chapter at the end of this book, dedicated to parts
sources from around the world. Use it as-is or as your guidline to find better deals.
If you still find it hard to obtain certain parts, refer to our online catalog. Some of the
Independent Vendors on our Products Catalog at www.Water4Gas.com sell individual
parts or replacement parts and sometimes even complete parts kits (ready for assembly
so you can save money while by your own time for construction).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 33
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 1 CH'PT" 1
")"CTO#"S: 'FFO#'B)" +"Y-HI!H- ")"CTO#"S: 'FFO#'B)" +"Y-HI!H-
8-')ITY ')T"('TI+"S TO ST'I()"SS 8-')ITY ')T"('TI+"S TO ST'I()"SS
ST"") ST"")
By Ozzie Freedom, with vital
inputs from Robert Foreman
,H'T IS Q'(O#" POT"CTIO(QB '(# ,HY ,O-)# I ,H'T IS Q'(O#" POT"CTIO(QB '(# ,HY ,O-)# I
,'(T ITB ,'(T ITB
The cathode does not have a problem and can stay 302/304 stainless steel, because
that's where the hydrogen is generated and hydrogen does not attack the steel. It's the
anode that gets corroded - by the constant proximity of oxygen - and should therefore
be protected.
Usually we do it by using St0inless Steel oC gr0de 61:) for the anode, or better yet
for BOTH anode and cathode because after a length of time the user can switch between
plus-minus voltage terminals - thus switching the newly untouched G0thode to be the
the new 0node&
This is a simple method to double the lifespan of the electrodes, and is popular.
However, I have found that some exotic metals are far better for the anode (in which
case you can use 302/304 - or 316L if you want - for the cathode). Platinum, for
example, is one of the 'noble' or precious metals which are excellent electrode materials.
Platinum is conductive, chemically stable and highly resistant to oxidation and corrosion.
Being highly conductive and having a low consumption rate (low corrosion), Platinum
makes a good 0node material. Platinum is too expensive to be used by itself, therefore
it is made affordable by electroplating a thin layer of Platinum over a high-corrosion-
resistance substrate such as Titanium, Niobium or Tantalum.
High stability and corrosion resistance are especially important if you're going to use the
Electrolyzer in a hard-to reach location, or to boost a stationary generator or marine
engine that works practically 24 hours a day. Or for any other application, location or
client that require lower maintenance.
,H"" TO FI(# ITB ,H"" TO FI(# ITB
Here are several alternative ANODE METALS, recommended by corrosion protection
expert o/ert Forem0n (thanks, Robert!) which were G0lGul0ted /y o/ert to l0st
m0ny ye0rs:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 34
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
(iGkel Tit0nium D(iTi ,ireE
May be obtained from Fiarfield Orthodontics FairfieldOrthodontics.com - Toll Free
Phone 800-321-0331, Toll Free Fax 877-570-2844.
Only $0.07 per inch, and comes in 15-ft spools which makes the whole spool only
$11.99
Available in 5 sizes - the thickest is 0.020" - and it does not need to be doubled for
durability purposes, but in order to achieve larger contact surface I would use 2 or 3 of
them together (do NOT twist them). Download the manufacturer's catalog for this wire:
http://www.fairfieldorthodontics.com/5-Nickel%20Titanium%20Wire.pdf
Pl0tinized (io/ium
May be obtained from the same source, FairfieldOrthodontics.com
It is more expensive - $0.29 per inch. Standard thickness 0.063" (1.6 mm) which means
it's thick enough for us and does not need to be doubled.
The consumption rate (in other words how fast it would be corroded) of Platinized
Niobium is 0.00001 Pound per year, so it has been calculated by Mr. Foreman to last at
least 8-10 years of 24/7 operation. If you drive 3 hours a day, it's good for decades!!!
I'm not sure how long Nickel Titanium mentioned above would last, but it's very long
lasting as well.
Pl0tinized (io/ium is also available from other sources worldwide, in case you wanted
to go into large scale production and you needed to do more homework on that. You can
search Google for "platinized niobium wire anode - try searching with and without the
quote marks.
What is Pl0tinized (io/iumB
These are actually Co33er wires, covered with a thiGk layer (almost 20% of the
diameter) of (io/ium and then plated again with a thin layer (less than 1% of the
diameter) of Pl0tinum on the outside.
The wires I've seen come in outside diameter of 0.063 inch (1.6 mm) which is pretty
thick so you don't need to double them when constructing the electrodes. Actually
you should NOT twist them, because although they are flexible, twisting by many
turns may damage the integrity of the Niobium and Platinum layers! If you want to
double the wire for any reason, just lay them side by side or on top of each other in
the tower's grooves (glue also good if you don't have grooves).
Since the core material is copper, the wire is flexible enough to bend by hand. For
best results select a wire type with thiGker Pl0tinum Go0ting, if available (not
critical since the product will last for years anyhow so don't put too much stress on
this feature.)
Water4Gas Book 1-B 35
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Other than the above mentioned FairfieldOrthodontics.com which is an excellent source
in the USA, I do not have WORLDWIDE SOURCES for Platinized Niobium - however you
are welcome to research the international sources below. Watch out for shipping costs
and delivery times!!!
The sources I have found by research are listed below. To the best of my knowledge,
they all offer Platinized Niobium anodes or anode material:
. 1 www.corrpro.com/ (USA) or www.corrpro.co.uk/materials4a.htm (United Kingdom)
. 2 www.platinumplating.net/platinized%20niobium%20wire%20anode.htm
. 3 www.titanindia.com/planma.htm
. 4 www.titaniumanode.in/F1104/platinized_titanium_and_niobium_anodes.html
. 5 www.titancomponents.com/products.htm
. 6 www.saititanium.com/activatedmetal.html
. 7 www.corrosionsource.com/cgi-bin/prodserv/search.cgi?query=platinized+niobium
. 8 www.corrosionsource.com/prodserv/C/Cathodic_Protection
. 9 www.corrosionsource.com/prodserv/C/Cathodic_Protection/Anodes
. 10 www.ptanode.com
Nick Law from the UK wrote to me: "If greater resistance to corrosion is needed, try
type 614, which has more molybdenum - but is more expensive!
To learn more about the contents formula and characteristics of each metal, visit
www.WikiPedia.org or search www.Google.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 36
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 9 CH'PT" 9
B-I)#I(! ' +'POI$" B-I)#I(! ' +'POI$"
'FFO#'BI)ITY 'FFO#'BI)ITY
Since this device might work all by itself to improve combustion and reduce emissions at
the same time. It doesn't always do that, but when it does - it is the cheapest fuel
economizer I've ever seen. When purchased bulk, my entire cost of materials was $1.55
per unit. This includes the mason jar, although you can use just about any throw-away
glass jar or THICK plastic jar, which will bring the cost down to 68 cents.
DUE TO COMPUTER PROBLEMS THAT WILL BE DISCUSSED IN BOOK 2, AND POSSIBLY
OTHER PROBLEMS WITH CERTAIN ENGINES, THE VAPORIZER DOES NOT INCREASE
MILEAGE ON ALL VEHICLES AND MUST BE EXPERIMENTED WITH ON A ONE BY ONE
BASIS. It G0n be coupled with other devices (such as the Fuel Heater, for one example)
to increase mileage, /ut not Iith the "leGtrolyzer. The Electrolyzer already has a
"mini Vaporizer inside.
To connect it in the car you may also need the "Universal Vacuum T" which can be
obtained from Auto Zone for $1.99. Even when parts are purchased in low quantities,
you can still build it on pocket change!!!
!"T TH"S" CO%PO("(TS !"T TH"S" CO%PO("(TS
1& One Mason Jar - 87 cents at OSH stores. Barcode
14400-67000-8 is widemouth, but any similar jar will do,
like the regular mason jar by Ball. Even a used
mayonnaise glass jar do, as long as it's about a quart
(roughly 1 liter) in size, or anything else that can fit
somewhere in your car's engine.
Are you thinking right now of "improving it to plastic?
LET ME TELL YOU RIGHT AWAY THAT THIS GLASS JAR IS
THE BEST. It lasts forever in any car or truck I've seen. It
will outlive any plastic and is actually cheaper!
5& One "Elbow" fitting - find at the irrigation department of Home
Depot, or order part number FITH83-1 at www.gardenrip.org
(about 9 cents):
Water4Gas Book 1-B 37
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
6& One Bubbler Cap - about 40-45 cents at
http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/adjsprink.php#tiptop
(part number is "DAB") or
http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm
Or find it under the name "Adjustable Dripper" at the irrigation
department of Home Depot, part number B02B, barcode
1315899988-1.
1& Six inches of vinyl tubing (0.17" inner diameter) -
costs 7 cents when cut from a 20' pack, Home Depot
PLUMBING DEPT, barcode 48643025493. Any thin
irrigation tubing will do if you don't have the clear one;
color and exact material are not important as long as its
inner diameter is about 0.17
9& One anchor* out of a pack from Home Depot, usually
in the Electrical Department (complete description: Yellow
Anchor 100-pk "Crown Bolt Ribbed Anchors 4-6x7/8,
barcode 76818030010). This anchor fits perfectly into the
tubing, its outer diameter is 0.19 - You can substitute it
with any similar anchor if you don't need the whole
package. About 3 cents each.
*Anchor: one of those pointed pieces of plastic that you
stick into the wall to hang a picture (on a screw).
:& Plumbing Goop - find at the painting department of Home Depot or Ace Hardware.
About $3.80, good for maybe a hundred units, so let's say 4 cents worth of glue. You
can also use J-B Weld, Epoxy, etc.
HEALTH WARNING: DO NOT INHALE THE FUMES OF THESE STRONG GLUES.
FOLLOW THE SAFETY GUIDELINES ON EACH PACKAGE.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 38
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CO(ST-CTI(! TH" +'POI$" CO(ST-CTI(! TH" +'POI$"
Cut a 6 to 8 piece of vinyl tubing.
Cut the tip of the anchor (remove about 1/3 off the pointed side) and stick it into the
end of the tubing. This is the easiest and cheapest tip I have found, but you may choose
to use an aquarium bubbler stone instead, or an irrigation diffuser (spray or mist tip).
Drill or punch two holes in the flat part of the jar's lid. One hole in the middle, and
one 7/32 hole about 3/4 from the edge. I purchased a basic punch set at Harbor
Freight Tools for under $6, which makes holes with one or two hits of a hammer over
some soft wood or plastic; saves time and makes very neat holes:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 39
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Note: the metal lid will eventually rust in the presence of water. Two possible solutions:
(a) paint it with rust-proof paint. Or better yet (b) the most durable solution would be a
plastic lid from the sources provided above for the Electrolyzer - be sure to get the
WIDEMOUTH lid, if you're using the widemouth jar (regular jar may be used too).
But for testing purposes, the original lid (unpainted metal) will do and will probably
survive several months without rusting heavily; don't worry about the engine because
the rust does not get into the engine.
Using Goop, glue the parts to the lid as shown in the photos below (glue not shown).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 40
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Add goop glue to these parts at the bottom side of the lid. Sometimes I add a nut on
the elbow, PLUS glue on both. It just makes it easier to hold everything in place, but the
elbow can be fastened with a small cable tie or a piece of wire just as well:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 41
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Fin0l TouGhes
After glue and some black paint, it may look like
this: (I don't paint the rotating rim, only the
center stationary part is painted)
NOTE: the metal lid may eventually rust and I'm aware of that. It should hold for a year
or so, and by then you will have ample time to test the effectiveness of this device IN
YOUR VEHICLE. As far as I can tell, it has more proven workability in model years 1995
and older. It may also perform very well on farm equipment, generators and mopeds.
If it works well for you, it is so easy to build that you should be able to make a dozen in
one afternoon. Give some of those to your friends to test too!
"(+IO(%"(T') POP"CT I#"' "(+IO(%"(T') POP"CT I#"'
Joe Shea (www.HHOgames.com) suggested a great idea - to make and sell this device
(at $10 or so) by the millions in Mexico City and other over-polluted cities - for the sake
of drastically and immediately reducing air pollution in those cities. Great idea, Joe!
Now who wants to pick up the glove and DO IT???
And why not have the people of that city make it themselves, under your supervision
and guidance? It is so easy to learn and can be made with locally available hardware.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 42
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" : CH'PT" :
B-I)#I(! ' %'P;%'F S"(SO "(H'(C" B-I)#I(! ' %'P;%'F S"(SO "(H'(C"
,H'T #O"S IT #OB ,H'T #O"S IT #OB
,0ter1!0s Book 2 explains more, but just so you know what we're talking about here,
this "MAP Sensor Enhancer is a great companion to your Electrolyzer. This very-low-
cost electronic device enhances the capability of your ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer to
actually boost mileage.
It is important to note that it is designed for gasoline-operated vehicles that have what
is called "MAP Sensor - not all gasoline vehicles have it - and can be fitted to most (but
again, not all) other gasoline vehicles by attaching it to their "MAF Sensor which most
modern cars have.
ST-CT-" ST-CT-"
This device is very simple and basically consists of a plastic box, two variable resistors
(potentiometers or "pots), a switch and a few wires. Anyone who has basic training in
electronics and can solder parts together, can build this device in one afternoon.
The reason for the two knobs is convenience of operation. As you will see in a minute,
you can build an even simpler device than the one shown, with only one knob, in which
case you can eliminate the switch because it's sole purpose is to switch between the two
pots. The white connector is also for convenience of installation, so the basic structure
can be as minimalistic as one knob and some wire, costing under $3 total.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 43
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
,H"" TO !"T TH" ,H"" TO !"T TH" CO"CT CO"CT P'TS P'TS
I found some surplus pots at All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA www.allelectronics.com. But
then they ran out of these. Check again. There are similar potentiometers at Electronics
City at Burbank, CA, near the east end of Burbank Boulevard, and in most other
electronic Gom3onents shops around the world.
Online you can order it from one of the following, but there are thousands of other
sources around the world. Even a used one from an old instrument will do. All you have
to keep you eyes on, is that it is the "LINEAR type (marked A) which means the
resistance is spread evenly across its movement range.
The "B type is non-linear, and is good for audio applications. It's what you would
normally find as the volume control in radios and old TVs. "B type will work but will be
much harder to tune. You want to see "LINEAR in the catalog, and the part itself will be
marked "A near its printed or embossed value.
These are all 100K (prices at time of writing):
Item PC26 from www.action-electronics.com/pots.htm - $3.25
Item BC-P from http://www.cascadesurplus.com - $1.00
Item 271-1722 from http://www.radioshack.com - $2.99
Item 31CN501-F from http://Mouser.com - $1.14
Each of the suppliers should also have a matching knob. If it has a long shaft like the
one from Radio Shack then you will have to cut it with a jigsaw which is quite tricky (try
to get one with a shorter shaft). All the above are designed for easy panel mounting, so
if you don't want to use a box just drill a hole (or holes, if you use two pots) in the
dashboard - or add a little panel or box under the dashboard.
I use the Digi-Key and Jameco catalogs, that they will give you free of charge, and you
can also search and order yourself online at http://www.DigiKey.com
or at Mouser Electronics http://www.Mouser.com
In the Mouser Catalog I have isolated the parts that are major but most hard to find -
good pots and compatible knobs. Well, I mean hard to find in this quality, price range
and compatibility to each other. I recommend that you order the following parts, directly
from Mouser.com
The method I used mostly to find affordable parts: I visit the nearest surplus electronics
store, and find matching pairs of pots and knobs Crom stoGk&
Water4Gas Book 1-B 44
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
(OT"S:
Some experimenters I talked to said that a 100K Ohm potentiometer is needed.
According to my experiments, measurements and calculations, the 50K does a perfect
job. But I haven't tried all cars in the world, of course. The 100K and 50K should cost
the same so you're welcome to experiment with a both values, especially if you're about
to furnish an entire fleet of similar vehicles with duplicates of this device.
You can replace the fixed resistor with a "trimmer (small variable resistor) that will
reside inside the box. This trimmer, usually adjusted with a small screwdriver, will
enable you to find the optimal value of that fixed resistor.
How do you know when it is optimal? You play with the trimmer until you get the widest
range of motion on the knob:
NO ADDED RESISTOR RESISTOR ADDED
The best way to understand this diagram is to try one of these on a real engine and see
what happens.
The trim is hidden from the final user, behind the panel or in the box, so it can be
eliminated in mass production by replacing the optimal value found with a cheap fixed
resistor.
#I'!'%S OF S-CC"SSF-) #"SI!(S #I'!'%S OF S-CC"SSF-) #"SI!(S
Below is a diagram of a very simple design for MAP/MAF Sensor Enhancer. I used to
have LEDs and other stuff but then I eliminated them for simplicity.
Besides, they were not much help in tuning the device. You'd better do it by simply
feeling the car's pull, vibration and behavior (especially uphill) an we'll go into more
details in ,0ter1!0s Book 2.
The fixed resistor helps widen the effective rotary range of the knob. The resistor that
worked best for my MAP Sensor (Toyota Corolla 1999) was 33K Ohm.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 45
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
The optimal fixed resistor may be 33K Ohm but that depends on the car. The simplest
and cheapest possible way of doing this is to find an old potentiometer with a value of
50K to 100K (should be 50 cents in a surplus store), and connect it on the MAP Sensor
line, as shown below:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 46
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
An optional design is depicted in the diagram below. A DPDT (see def.) switch is used to
switch between the original connection and the enhancer (via the pot). The LED will light
up when you're in enhanced mode. If you don't want this LED, use an SPDT (see def.)
switch.
My preferred version for ,0ter1!0s has two potentiometers so one can be set to city
conditions while the other optimized for the highway. NOTE THAT BOTH SIDES ARE
IDENTICAL IN THEIR ELECTRONICS and it's arbitrary which side you want to mark "city
and which "highway.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 47
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
I chose wire colors arbitrarily, they don't mean anything. Simply connect the
corresponding points as shown to the sensor, ECU and ground. Extend the wires to the
dashboard or beyond to your convenience.
You can leave markings up to the experimenter or the final user of the vehicle. Without
TUNING (before setting the knobs), the left side (marked "highway in the photo) is
identical to the right side (marked "city), and markings should reflect actual use of
these sides. For instance the user can mark one side as "enhanced and the other side
would be marked "original (in which case you leave that side at full-rich position) so
now you can switch between enhanced mode and original factory setting. Or mark them
"hot engine vs. "cold engine, or "bypass/uphill vs. "flat road - or whatever suits their
use and driving conditions.
The diagram means what it says! It has been edited several times until every detail was
perfectly workable (other than resistor values that may require changes in some cars).
Even the pot side to which you solder the connections was taken into consideration. It
has to be constructed exactly as shown for best results and that's why I put pictures
instead of electronics symbols.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 48
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
You're looking at two identical circuits, with a selecting switch. There are two parallel pot
circuits shown, but you can build three or more identical circuits - and change the switch
to one that can select between these three or more inputs.
The signal from the car's sensor enters at the "higher" end of the pot. The signal sees
the pot in series with a resistor to ground. The ECU gets only PART of this incoming
signal, depending on the position of the pot.
The fixed resistor (on each side) is there for a reason. The signal is not full range from 5
volt to zero. It has a more limited range closer to the 5 volt. Which makes the lower end
of the pot non usable, since there is no point in sending 1 or 2 volts to the engine, it will
kill it. So I added those resistors to enable a much wider rotation of the pot to be usable.
It makes tuning easier, as shown in a diagram earlier.
The photograph below shows how the parts are connected inside the box:
The external wires are then connected as shown below. The external plug is useful for
maintenance of the device, but is not vital. I mean you can wire the enhancer straight
through from the driver's cabin or dashboard to the engine compartment.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 49
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
!"TTI(! F'(CY !"TTI(! F'(CY
If the above is not enough...here's a fancy alternative. Add a second SPDT switch to
toggle between Enhanced mode (lean mixture with the right knob or the left knob) and
Original mode, or factory setting - in which the original (incoming) signal goes right
through to the ECU, ignoring both pots and knob settings.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 50
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
The actual enhancer will look something like this:
The inner wiring is shown below. The output of the upper switch (gray wire) - the
selection side of that switch - is connected to the lower switch for further selection. The
other input of the lower switch (green wire) is the original signal coming from the MAP
Sensor. So if "Original is selected on the lower switch, then the thick red wire, which is
output to ECU, will get the full MAP Sensor signal regardless of any knob setting:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 51
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 4 CH'PT" 4
B-I)#I(! ' F-") H"'T" B-I)#I(! ' F-") H"'T"
P'TS )IST P'TS )IST
The table below provides the basic parts list to build the Fuel Heater. The complete parts
list chapter at the end of this book has all the sources online/offline and estimated prices
for USA.
Definitions: "FIP means Female Iron Pipe. Even though these parts are not made of iron
but brass, this is how plumbers describe these babies. "MIP means Male Iron Pipe.
8ty #esGri3tion C0t0log R SourGe B0rGode
2 3 Brass Pipe Nipple A-744 Watts 04864307225-1
2 Hose Barb Adapter A-197 Watts 04864307103-2
1 FIP Elbow A-727 Watts 04864307212-1
1 FIP to MIP Street Elbow A-739 Watts 04864307220-6
1 Real-Tuff Thread Sealant Hercules
ST-CT-" ST-CT-"
To build this Fuel Heater simply put together the parts listed above. Using the photo of
the device provided here, it is very simple to assemble once you have the parts in your
hands. Add "Plumbers Pipe Dope over the threads to prevent fuel leaks.
PreG0utions
1. MAKE SURE THAT THE KP)-%B"S #OP"L DOES NOT SEAL OR BLOCK THE
PASSAGES.
2. FI" H'$'# IF YO- #IS"!'# THIS P"C'-TIO(.
#o NOT use TeClon t03e /eG0use it@s not Gom30ti/le
Iith Cuel ... -se only Plum/ers Pi3e #o3e* or
KPlum/ers #o3e*L Dsometimes G0lled KPi3e Point
Com3ound&LE It@s not 0 t03e* 0nd it norm0lly looks
like glue or 3utty th0t you 033ly Iith 0 /rush to
SuiGkly 0nd smoothly set 0nd se0l C0uGets* thre0ded
3i3es* etG& The Iord @do3e@ in this GonteHt me0ns 0
20rnishlike Go0ting to m0ke 0 Citting I0ter3rooC*
stronger* 0nd to 3re2ent g0s;liSuid le0k0ge&
Water4Gas Book 1-B 52
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
ProGedure
Since it's so simple to put together, I'll only give you catalog numbers and descriptions.
Home Depot should have the metal parts listed. If you can't find these exact parts in
your area or country, just go into your favorite plumbing supply shop, show them the
photo and parts list, and ask for similar parts. An exact match or lengths and diameters
to my list is not critical - as long as they fit each other:
It is very important to use the "pipe joint compound properly - follow the instructions
provided by its manufacturer. One pipe joint compound that I find appropriate is called
"Real-Tuff Teflon Paste Thread Sealant. It's made by Hercules www.HerChem.com and
its main features are:
Multi-purpose heavy duty, for use on a wide range of materials.
Contains a unique system of fine grain Teflon particles specifically designed to fill
cracks and tiny thread imperfections.
Leak free joints can be tested and put into service at once.
Holds tight against expansion, contraction and vibration, is non-separating, will not
run or drip from joints, contains no lead.
Withstands temperatures from -200F to +550F.
Provides leak-proof hydraulic resistance to 12,000 psi.
Withstands gas pressure up to 2,600 psi.
Non-flammable and contains no heavy metals or volatile solvents; applied easily
with a natural bristle brush, even at temperatures as low as -25F.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 53
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 7 CH'PT" 7
B-I)#I(! ' PC+ "(H'(C" B-I)#I(! ' PC+ "(H'(C"
P'TS )IST P'TS )IST
8ty #esGri3tion C0t0log R SourGe B0rGode
1 Husky Mini General Purpose
FilterM
HDA704 Home Depot 04556460664-0
2 Watts 3/8 Hose Barb
AdapterMM
A-293 Home Depot 04864307449-1
4-6 Stainless Steel Gear Clamp 62604 Home Depot 07857510304-4
2 3/8 PCV Hose H-176
GatesMMM
20 Glass beads, 8mm round 1967-31 Jo-Ann Crafts 65269539126-2
M You can also use the larger Husky General Purpose Filter, model HDA706, which has a
larger capacity for gunk and water collection.
Several readers have reported that their Home Depot branch stopped
carrying this filter. Alternatives: Lowe's hardware stores sell an identical
looking filter made by Ko/0ltN.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Its model number is KBA10600AV, Lowe's item # 221024. Costs $19.94 on
their website www.Lowes.com. Looks the same as Husky's but its head is
usually painted blue instead of black. The only reason I prefer Husky is its
$11.97 price tag. Otherwise they are the same
Another alternative: "Inline Desiccant Dryer/Filter" by Centr0l Pneum0tiG:
Available at Harbor Freight Tools, item # 94733-0VGA. The description
says: "Removes water vapor, dirt, dust and oil vapor. Changes from blue to
pink when the filter needs changing. Air inlet: 1/4" NPT female; Air outlet:
1/4" NPT female." I haven't tried it yet, but for $7.99 it's definitely worth
trying if you cannot find Husky or Kobalt filters. I've seen other ,0ter1!0s
experimenters using it successfully.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 54
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
MM The Watts 3/8 adapters may be replaced with Husky 3/8 Adapters, if you find
them in stock. They come in pairs and are priced a bit lower than Watts.
MMM The 3/8 PCV Hose from Gates, H-176, is available at (or order from) your NAPA
auto parts store - locate your store at http://www.napaautocare.com/store-finder.aspx
And the original manufacturer is:
The !0tes u//er Co&
1551 Wewatta Street
Denver, CO 80202, USA
Phone: 303-744-1911
Website: http://www.gates.com
NOTE: The parts list chapter at the end
of this book has all the sources
online/offline and estimated prices for
USA.
ST-CT-" ST-CT-"
Use the photo as a guideline. Making a
PCV Enhancer is pretty simple:
Apply Teflon tape to the male hose
ends, install them into the air inlet and
outlet ports of the filter, and tighten
with a wrench.
Open the bowl (the transparent part)
by hand, t0king G0re not to lose the
ru//er o-ring* and insert twenty
8-mm balls/beads into it. The number
of balls/beads may be different in two
cases: either (a) you have a different
diameter balls or beads, or (b) you
want to leave more room for the
filtered out water and gunk.
I always fill it up (20 balls).
Add a rubber/vinyl cap at the bottom, because the
built-in valve is designed for outward flow (pressure)
rather than vacuum. Without a cap it will leak no matter
what position you put the wing. The valve may also leak
- seal it with glue.
The best way I have found to make a cap is to stick one
of the 8mm beads or bearing balls into a 3/8 (OD)
vinyl tubing (length not critical, about 1/2"-3/4" is OK).
For extra comfort of use, I tie the cap with a short nylon
wire to the device, so it doesn't get lost when removed
for cleaning.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 55
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Peel off the warning sticker (see picture) from the bowl.
The reason: It is not rele20nt to our use&
Also discard the little manual that comes with the filter,
because just the same it is not rele20nt 0nd Iill /e
GonCusing to users&
Note that nothing has been said about inlet and outlet
differences. That's because it didn't matter so far. It will
matter only when installing the unit.
Q"AC-S" %" SI* '" YO- S"))I(! '%%-(ITIO(B.Q Q"AC-S" %" SI* '" YO- S"))I(! '%%-(ITIO(B.Q
An alternative to the glass balls or glass beads, is to use BB pellets (the met0lliG type
used for BB guns, not plastic toy pellets). Either zinc plated, copper plated or steel
pellets will do. Old /0ll /e0rings from a machine or vehicle will do just as well or even
better. Don't use any smaller than BB size (about 1/4 or 6.5 mm) in order to leave
enough space for air and water between the balls.
The reason I don't recommend using BB's in kits (especially if they have to go through
customs and airports) is the "ammo connotation which will immediately get you in
trouble with the Postal Services, Police Departments, Customs, the Parents and Teachers
Association and who knows who else. Ridiculous but true :-)
Another alternative is to use small marbles from the dollar store. Just make sure they
are indeed made of gl0ss, not plastic! Don't use those marbles that look met0lliG
because they are plastic inside - you can feel their light weight and temperature. Glass
marbles will feel cooler and will sound like glass when you knock them against each
other.
Whatever the material, I recommend that you put just enough balls/marbles to prevent
them from jerking around while the car is moving. Too much motion inside will scratch
the bowl faster than normal.
P'T"(T (O(-I(FI(!"%"(T (OTIC" P'T"(T (O(-I(FI(!"%"(T (OTIC"
BUILDING AND SELLING THE DEVICE DESCRIBED ABOVE DOES NOT INFRINE ON
THE PATENTS OF MR. ELMER W. BUSH (1923-2004) REGARDING PCV
ENHANCEMENTS.
A COMPLETE WRITE-UP ON THIS MATTER IS PROVIDED FOR !O"R #E$#
%ROTE&TION IN ,0ter1!0s BOOK 2.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 56
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" < CH'PT" <
")"CTO)Y$" ")"CTO)Y$"
I(ST'))'TIO( I(ST'))'TIO(
= %"CH'(IC') = %"CH'(IC')
In this chapter you will find the
beginning steps for installaling
the Electrolyzer: starting with
precautions and necessary
accessories, then step-by-step
installation procedures.
In the next chapter you will find
everything about SAFELY
connecting the Electrolyzer to the
electrical systems of the vehicle, and finally in the chapter right after that, how to
finalize the installation.
S'F"TY P"C'-TIO(S S'F"TY P"C'-TIO(S
Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using ,0ter1!0s technology
may result in serious damage or body injury. Read and follow the
instructions and safety precautions given here and in relevant
places throughout this book to avoid these hazards.
If you do not understand these instructions or do not like working
on vehicles, have your mechanic do the installations.
Work outside, without smoking; make sure the engine is not hot
before touching it or working on it.
Wear goggles and gloves and only use only professional tools; use
common sense and general safety procedures applicable for
automotive installations and maintenance. If you're not sure, ASK
for help from a professional!
Study this chapter and this book before installation. In case of
trouble, refer to the chapter on troubleshooting.
The article "Shade Tree Safety By Mike Bumbeck of autoMedia.com
is a recommended reading that will give you more education on the
subject:
http://www.valvoline.com/car-care/automotive-topics/safety/ccr20070501st
or http://www.automedia.com/Shade_Tree_Safety/ccr20070501st/1
Water4Gas Book 1-B 57
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
%Y P"SO(') THO-!HTS reg0rding s0Cety
As anywhere else in this book and in this book series, I am expressing my own sincere
o3inion here - and you can agree or disagree to your liking.
It is true that HHO is a very powerful gas, and it is true that some standard glues are
toxic, and there are other things that I point out to you in this book. However, I would
like to warmly recommend that you AVOID UNNECESSARY FEARS - and this includes
(in my view) that you should not listen to selC-033ointed KeH3ertsL oC the kind
th0t intimid0tes you 0nd sto3s you Crom t0king 0Gtion& Because the safety notes
in this book are not intended to intimidate or stop you, only to 0dd to your safety.
One fine client was told by her mechanic that due to "the fire hazard he must refuse
to install this system in her car. But if he'd follows the detailed instructions provided in
this book, and follow them in full, there would be no more hazard than other vehicle
systems that we use on the road every day.
In my view ,0ter1!0s is many times safer than placing Hydrogen/natural-gas tanks
in cars and buses!!! That's crazy! Now that Hydrogen vehicles are new in the market
they might be kind of OK, but what would happen 10-15 years down the road? One
Los Angeles natural-gas-powered bus has already blown up while refueling.
Fortunately the person who was supposed to be inside it cleaning had been called
away. The bus blew up - Iithout 0 Cire. Just an explosion.
I was stuck in such a bus one day in Southern California when the natural gas ran out.
We had to switch buses - the driver would not let us stay on or even near the bus
while refueling.
Since these buses are so inflammable they also become a target for terrorists. I don't
like it! Do you? Hydrogen-On-Demand is so much safer, and whoever talks about
"explosions does not see the difference between a mouse and an elephant.
Yes, HHO is combustible - BUT ONLY AFTER IT ENTERS THE ENGINE - that's the whole
point. Your ,0ter1!0s system will NOT store hydrogen when installed properly, so
there is no fire hazard due to hydrogen storage because there is no storage.
So again, don't let people who don't understand the system intimidate you or tell you
about non-existent hazards. In my humble opinion, ,0ter1!0s teGhnology Gools
doIn the engine 0nd Gle0ns it* Ihile Gre0ting 0 smoother Gom/ustion GyGle -
and by that it adds safety to any standard vehicle.
I never had trouble with any of my ,0ter1!0s devices and systems. However,
remember at all times that (a) I'm giving you my information and my OPINION but not
commands and (2) either as a mechanic or as a client, by acting upon any of the
information and suggestions in this book series, you take the position of an
experimenter and you must take full responsibility for your actions and decisions.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 58
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
I(ST'))'TIO( 'CC"SSOI"S I(ST'))'TIO( 'CC"SSOI"S
For Electrolyzer installation you will need the following accessories:
+0Guum Hose
1/4" 7/32 I.D. Length you'll need TOTAL is 43 if you build two outputs. Less for 1
output. Let me explain: you can build this device with one or two outputs. The
advantage of the double output is that it simplifies installation for the dual-HHO supply.
-ni2ers0l +0Guum Tee
Order online from www.imperialinc.com (item 37351). Or find at AutoZone (part number
373175) or Dorman part # 47349, barcode 3749547349-1) $1.99 each.
"leGtriG0l ,iring
Automotive wires can be obtained at almost any hardware or automotive store. For cost
effectiveness, purchase red and black 100-feet rolls of 14 gauge wire from AutoZone, at
around $10/roll, that's good for many of your wiring needs. Not on the website - walk
into the store or phone 1-800-288-6966.
Fuse Holder T Fuse
This can be any type of in-line fuse holder found at AutoZone, Home Depot or your
electronics store, like the blade type or the tubular type. Both types usually go for $2.50
apiece.
FUSE TYPE: ("+" -S" ' ,I" O '(Y OTH" I%PO+IS"# F-S". Use the
standard fuse that matches your fuse holder, and select its rating (usually 15 Amps to
20 Amps) in accordance with recommended fuse ratings.
Other 'GGessories
Small bungee cords and cable straps can be obtained from any hardware store. I bought
packages of 20 bungees from OSH or Harbor Freight for $4.99 ($0.25 each). A hundred
8 cable ties were $2, and a 100-pack of 11 ties were $5.
,0ter
At the time of writing, Ralphs groceries sell a gallon of distilled water for 99 cents.
Other places have varying prices, sometimes as high as $1.29. Is this higher-priced
water better for our purposes? I dont think so, but go ahead and test your local water.
Some folks say that water quality does matter - even for car use. Well thats alright with
me, and Im thinking maybe in the future well be able to grade water like we do
gasoline today. Like, Ralphs water would be 87 octane, Albertson's might be 89, and
so forth...
Rainwater? Exciting idea, but at second thought, I'm not sure how clean they are. Id
stick to Distilled Water.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 59
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
C0t0lyst
The typical bag (3.8 ounce, recommended) should
get you started (6 to 10 months per my
calculations). Its correct name is "Sodium
Bicarbonate = Pure B0king Sod0. You can get
more of it at most groceries.
C0t0lyst O3tion 1& Pure Baking Soda (such as
Arm & Hammer) is a NON-harmful catalyst. In the
long run it may produce a bit of mud in the water.
BUT IS FAR SUPERIOR IN TERMS OF SAFETY! I
brush my teeth with it. I've driven with it for years
with good results. I bought 12-pound bags from
Costco for $5.95 (1-800-774-2678, check
www.costco.com for local store locations).
12 lb is too much for most users - get a small box
from your grocery at about $1.50
C0t0lyst O3tion 5& (OT S'F"* S"" ,'(I(! B")O,. KNaOH - called Sodium
Hydroxide, Lye, Caustic Soda, or drain opener powder. Costs $2.49/lb at AAA-
Chemicals.com
C0t0lyst O3tion 6& (OT S'F"* S"" ,'(I(! B")O,. %uGh more d0ngerous
th0n o3tion num/er 5& "KOH - Potassium Hydroxide. $2/lb at AAA-Chemicals.com
''' GhemiG0ls
601 Oakdale street
Shoreacres, TX 77571
Email: info@aaa-chemicals.com
Phone 281-841-6987
S"+"" ,'(I(!. Sodium HydroHide 0nd Pot0ssium HydroHide 0re
Gorrosi2e GhemiG0ls = 0nyone de0ling Iith these GhemiG0ls must Ie0r
glo2es ? goggles* 0nd eHerGise eHtreme G0ution Ihen h0ndling.. These
o3tion0l GhemiG0ls 0re #'(!"O-S. Also remember that it is illegal to store
chemicals in food containers! DO NOT TOUCH, SWALLOW OR BREATH. In case of
contact flush with lots of water and consult your physician immediately.
,'(I(!. #O (OT -S" TH"S" CH"%IC')S ,ITH ,0ter1!0s
T"CH(O)O!Y-- use B0king Sod0 or Sodium Citr0te =- TH" ')T"('TI+"
%'T"I')S %"(TIO("# 'BO+" '" #'(!"O-S& (OT "CO%%"(#"#
FO ,0ter1!0s -- PO+I#"# FO I(FO%'TIO( O()Y...
More on SAFE electrolyte alternatives in a later chapter "BAKING SODA ALTERNATIVES
Water4Gas Book 1-B 60
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
ST'TI(! TH" I(ST'))'TIO( ST'TI(! TH" I(ST'))'TIO(
Mount the ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer in the engine compartment. It should be mounted
flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around
when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Choose a location and position the device so that it can
easily be accessed and can be conveniently removed for re-filling with water, cleaning,
service or routine inspection.
IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much as possible. If
you're not sure where that is, Harbor Freight Tools has a digital non-contact
thermometer for about $7 (item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest
available place in the engine area.
I cannot give you an exact number here for what is "too hot, because there is a
combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the electrolysis process itself.
All I can tell you that in two cases my Electrolyzer melted and only the glass jar
survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of (1) too much heat radiated by the
engine through the air to the Electrolyzer, and (2) electrolyte too concentrated or in
other words too much Baking Soda. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway, where
an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in electrical
current) that causes a further increase in temperature - leading to meltdown.
You can prevent this from happening by following these precautions and procedures:
Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water are NOT distilled water!
Start with no more than teaspoon of baking soda, and add teaspoon at a
time, making sure that no excess heat is being generated.
Install away from engine heat. If this is not possible, block the engine heat as
much as you can by placing a heat shield (bubble wrap covered by aluminum foil)
between the Electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at least 1-2 air space around
the Electrolyzer.
A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized
plumbers strap. In other cases a small rubber pad and/or two bungee cords may
be adequate.
Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine
compartment to mount the device. A possible solution is to use the area in front
of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car's frame or 0nything other the
r0di0tor* /elts or mo2ing 30rts, and make sure that it does not touch the
radiator.
That's it for the mechanical installation and location. Now let's move for connections and
supply lines. The ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer is operated by vacuum pressure from your
vehicles engine, plus 12 Volt supply from your vehicles electrical system.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 61
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+'C--% CO(("CTIO( +'C--% CO(("CTIO(
As shown in the vacuum diagram below, vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to
various car systems, and you should best use the vacuum line that gets the highest
vacuum. The idea is to suck the HHO into a place such as the carburetor or the intake
manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 62
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
+'C--% CO(("CTIO( = #-') S-PP)Y +'C--% CO(("CTIO( = #-') S-PP)Y
Note: For some unknown reason, several readers thought that by "dual supply I meant
one output hose to the vacuum - and the other output to the Cuel line&&& (o* no* no.
Both connections are to the air/vacuum connections of the engine. Never connect HHO
into the fuel lines!
The reason for the dual supply (dual HHO output) is that when the engine is idling, there
is a high vacuum pressure in the intake manifold. This pressure drops when you
accelerate or rev up the engine to higher RPM. At that moment, more vacuum is
available in the air intake for sucking up the HHO gas into the engine. It may save a bit
more fuel but I don't find it critical, so it's up to you if you want to use the dual supply.
Besides, it really depends on your driving habits. If you never rev up the engine very
high, the second output will be closed most or all of the time.
Switching between supply lines happens by itself and no Gontrol meGh0nism is
neGess0ry&
Refer to the Vacuum Diagram below. In this setup a SECOND line is connected from the
device to the air intake of the engine. Use a universal vacuum line T-Connector (second
one not provided) to make the connection. To connect the second pipe to the air intake
or air filter housing, use a brass fitting (Harbor Freight sells 5 "Brass Couplers, item
34704-0VGA, for $1.99, that's 40 cents apiece, see photo).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 63
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C'-TIO(: #O (OT -S" TH" B'K"S +'C--% )I("& This is usually a very thick
black hose that connects between the engine and the Brake Vacuum Booster (usually a
large drum on the firewall on the driver side):
With the engine briefly on, you should be able to detect substantial vacuum pressure
coming from the line you are connecting to. If you want to know exactly what line is
best, and especially if youre going to install more than one device, a good vacuum
gauge is available at Harbor Freight Tools for about $10 (www.harborfreight.com or
phone 843-676-2603), see more details in the chapter "Maintenance.
Connect the vacuum line from the device, to a vacuum line that runs to the intake
manifold. Make the connection as close as possible to the intake manifold. If the vehicle
has a carburetor, make the connection at or below the base of the carburetor.
Frequently in older vehicles, there are spare ports available for this purpose.
The PCV valve line usually
makes a good connection.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
valve, or PCV valve, is a one-
way valve that ensures continual
refreshment of the air inside a
gasoline internal combustion
engine's crankcase.
Photo:
WikiPedia.org
Vehicles with EFI (Electronic Fuel
Injection) should also be
connected at or near the intake
manifold.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 64
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
,'(I(!: #O (OT SHOT"( TH" +'C--% )I(" between the engine intake and
the jar. Keep the line (hose) at least 4 ft long. This length must be kept to enhance
safety and prevent damage to the device.
A wide range of vacuum fittings is readily available at any auto parts store (plastic
fittings will do for this use).
Note that the Universal Vacuum T-Connector is...well, universal. Its edges are usually
too small for the hose, and should be trimmed (edge cut off) with a knife (see picture
below). In my experience cutting off exactly 0.4 inch did the trick. This is recommended
because the small opening obstructs gas flow for nothing. This is not mandatory, yet it
will help improve performance.
Cut at shown places for a hose. Cut
larger or smaller sections, according to
the hoses you're using at each end.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 65
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
%y Coroll0 @<< +0Guum Setu3
The photo below shows the vacuum hose connections that I have set up in my Toyota
Corolla.
The vacuum-T at the center receives a SINGLE HHO FEED from the Electrolyzer (from
bottom of photo). It then feeds (to the right) the air filter box, and (to the left) the
intake manifold. The PCV hose is not used in this case and will be connected later on to
the PCV Enhancer.
The parts encircled in red are the two check valves that I removed from the Electrolyzer
outputs and moved forward to here (doing the same function here of preventing
backflows).
The reason behind this setup was that I found the air filter very close to the manifold,
and eliminated the extra hose. Just an idea for you. Didn't save money because I had to
buy 2 extra T's for $4, but I think it's neat and easy to maintain.
The yellow arrows in the photo above indicate the correct
direction of the check valves (in red circles).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 66
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 1> CH'PT" 1>
")"CTO)Y$" I(ST'))'TIO( = ")"CTO)Y$" I(ST'))'TIO( =
")"CTIC') ")"CTIC')
S"+"" ,'(I(! S"+"" ,'(I(!
InGorreGt eleGtriG0l inst0ll0tion might G0use h0z0rdous Gonditions& "s3eGi0lly
d0ngerous is to hook u3 the "leGtrolyzer str0ight to the /0ttery* or in 0ny suGh
I0y th0t it Iill kee3 3roduGing HHO Ihile the engine is oCC D0GGumul0ting HHO
might G0use 0n eH3losion u3on engine ignitionE&
YO- %-ST (OT '))O, HHO 'CC-%-)'TIO( ,H"( TH" "(!I(" IS OFF...
%O" #"T'I)S B")O, = "'# THIS CH'PT" C'"F-))Y B"FO" ST'TI(!
TH" ")"CTIC') I(ST'))'TIO(&
I@2e seen the inst0ll0tion shoIn 0/o2e 0nd didn@t mine the 2ery un3roCession0l G0rd/o0rd /oH& But
I did mind the sIitGh = it I0s the only method he I0s using to sIitGh oCC the 3oIer to this set oC
Cour )'!" D5-Su0rt e0GhE "leGtrolyzers& One unluGky night* the eH3erimenter Corgot to sIitGh it
oCC& In the morning Ihen he st0rted the engine* he G0used 0 2ery noisy eH3losion th0t /roke his
int0ke m0niCold in h0lC& Th0t I0s 0 O9>> lesson Cor him to ColloI the s0Cety 3reG0utions gi2en here&
Water4Gas Book 1-B 67
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
I(ST'))'TIO( TIPS I(ST'))'TIO( TIPS
I(ST'))'TIO( TIP R1
If you are uncomfortable with (or lacking knowledge of) the electrical part of your
vehicle, then for your own safety, and for the safety of your passengers and the integrity
of your vehicle, you MUST refer this part of the installation to a professional.
If you can't find a qualified ,0ter1!0s installer within reasonable distance from you,
I can recommend two additional types of professionals for this job:
1. Auto-sound installers (the guys that install stereo, CB radios, alarms, etc.) They
are normally knowledgeable with the vehicle's electrical systems and its relays,
fuses and wiring, they can easily calculate wiring thickness and amperes, etc.
2. Any professional AUTO ELECTRICAL TECHNICIAN who's familiar with your type of
vehicle.
The seaction "Safe Electrical Installation below provides alternative SAFE methods to
connect the electricity to the Electrolyzer. For a small investment in extra parts and
some wiring you can (and should) achieve maximum safety.
I(ST'))'TIO( TIP R5
You may find this a useful resource for electrical information:
www.AHDOL.com - the Automotive Hobbyists Digital Online Library
(AHDOL) - provides FACTORY WIRING DIAGRAMS upon request, for
vehicles sold in North America between 1984 and 2007. Cost of complete
vehicle diagrams per vehicle is O15&<< and is guaranteed to be
delivered, via email, within 24 hours. (30-minute delivery also available).
I(ST'))'TIO( TIP R6
The ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer is normally designed to operate on 12 Volts, as shown in
the wiring diagram below. If youre not sure consult your auto mechanic (electric).
The eleGtriG0l GonneGtion shoIn in the tIo di0gr0ms /eloI is (OT S'F" 0nd is
/rought here Cor the s0ke oC illustr0ting the most /0siG setu3 th0t Iorks& We'll
just go over it and later on we'll discuss the why and the how of SAFE INSTALLATIONS.
In this setup here, the black terminal of the Electrolyzer is connected to the neg0ti2e
terminal of the vehicles battery, using the wire WITHOUT FUSE (black wire). If the
battery is too far, it can usually be connect to the CireI0ll or extended all the way to
the battery.
[Note on polarity: in some cars, such as certain models of Jaguar, the polarity of the
car's battery is negative - positive voltage connected to chassis, in which case the
connections should be reversed.]
Back to this installation, a point in the vehicles electrical system needs to be found that
has a 12 Volts (positive) present O()Y ,H"( TH" "(!I(" IS O( (in modern cars it's
usually "Position 2 of the Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid, window wiper
motor, or similar circuit.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 68
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Now, with the switch off and key taken out, the positive voltage (12 Volts) from the
point found, is connected to the red terminal of the Electrolyzer, using the FUSED wire
(red).
The diagram below displays more details on electrical connection to the windshield wiper
motor of the car. Note that wire color codes could be different depending on the vehicle:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 69
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
I(ST'))'TIO( TIP R1
To protect the wiring from long-term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires
into what's called "split flex tubing. You can find it in all major hardware stores such as
Ace Hardware and Home depot. Try not to buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the
hardware stores I found 10-feet packages for only 99 cents a pack.
I(ST'))'TIO( TIP R9
In most newer vehicles the fuses are located in a box, in the engine compartment. I just
plug the wire into the fuse holder and reinsert the fuse. Usually it is a 10 Amp or 15 Amp
ignition circuit, that I use. In some older cars where there was no fuse box to connect
to, the wiper motor was found most useful as a supply point. I splice into the SWITCHED
12 Volts and it works well.
I(ST'))'TIO( TIP R:
In some cars the entire electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of the
car, or to the battery itself). Some cars, even with positive polirity, are just plain
complicated for no apparent reason. If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who
is familiar with your specific model. As mentioned above, this is a safety point - do not
continue and hope for good, but consult a professional or better literature.
I(ST'))'TIO( TIP R4:
HO, TO -S" TH" 8-ICK SP)IC" CO(("CTOS
The quick splice connectors (shown in the fist book as may be provided with a typical
kit) are a real time and effort savers for the electrical connection. The procedure below
will teach you exactly how to use them.
1. Insert the wire that you are 0dding* the new
wire (red shown but it could be either the red or
black) into the re0r slot of the splice connector.
Note that it will only fit from the right hand side
when the connector is positioned as shown >>>
2. Insert the wire you wish to s3liGe to (brown
wire shown for example) into the front slot of the
connector as shown below:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 70
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
3. Using pliers press the metal connector onto the wires. This will cut through the
insulation of both wires and make a firm electrical connection between them, all in one
action:
4. Close the folding cover of the connector by hand as shown:

5. The final connection will look like this:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 71
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
S'F" ")"CTIC') I(ST'))'TIO(S S'F" ")"CTIC') I(ST'))'TIO(S
1& For !0soline "ngines = /y +0Guum SIitGh
PROBLEM: I never forget to turn off the ignition switch. However, a couple of
experimenters have forgotten to switch off the power (the Electrolyzer was on all night),
and either caused a small explosion when the engine was turned on in the morning - or
have drained the battery during the night.
SOLUTION: The diagram below shows an optional electrical connection, preventing
Electrolyzer operation unless the engine is on. The green numbers indicate the pin
numbers of the typical automotive relay.
The 12 Volts power is supplied directly from the battery
A vacuum switch senses that the engine is ON
The vacuum switch activates a relay
The relay connects the 12 Volts to the Electrolyzer.
The arrangement shown above is good only iC you h02e 20Guum* which means:
1. You are not on a diesel, and
2. You have connected to the vacuum port of your engine (and not to the air intake
only).
Water4Gas Book 1-B 72
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
5& For !0soline or #iesel = /y Oil Pressure SIitGh
What to do if you don't have vacuum? Replace the vacuum switch shown above with an
automotive OIL PRESSURE SWITCH.
This type of switch should only cost a few dollars. If you Google "oil pressure switch"
with your vehicle's model, you will find them starting at about $1-$3 and up. However,
such a switch should ONLY be connected to the engine by an experienced mechanic, to
prevent risk of leak or losing oil pressure.
Once you have the pressure switch installed, you can follow up and complete the
electrical connection yourself, per the diagram below:
The safety circuit shown above has performed very well in my turbo-diesel Volkswagen
Jetta. Approximately 2 seconds after I turn the engine off, the oil pressure drops and
HHO production is shut off too. When starting the engine back on, HHO production starts
almost instantaneously.
6& For !0soline or #iesel = /y Fuel Pum3 IndiG0tion
The following excellent article by Mike Kehrli, titled "Minimum Safety Circuitry for HHO
Installs describes the exact methods and hardware necessary for improving HHO safety
using a clever indication - the Fuel Pump Relay - and I will let him explain and illustrate
this topic.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 73
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
%I(I%-% S'F"TY CIC-ITY FO HHO I(ST'))S %I(I%-% S'F"TY CIC-ITY FO HHO I(ST'))S
'n 0rtiGle /y %ike Kehrli
www.Water4Gas.com/1/fuelsaver-mpg.htm
IntroduGtion
HHO is safe to use provided you handle it properly. By this I mean that you must have
all of your fittings sealed properly so that the HHO is getting into the engine. By making
sure that all of the HHO you create is getting into the engine and getting burned, there
is no HHO gathering in your engine compartment that could become hazardous. So the
first step in safely handling HHO is checking all of your connections and making sure all
of them are completely secure, and are not leaking.
However, another hidden hazard can occur when you are powering your HHO system
incorrectly. The worst case of this we have seen was a guy wiring his HHO system
directly to his car battery, with a switch in the engine compartment to turn the system
on. One day he went to the movies with his girlfriend, and left the switch in the "on"
position. As the system drew very little amperage, it continued making HHO which
accumulated under the hood. When they got back to the car to drive home, he went to
start his car and blew the hood off. No one was hurt, but as you can see, this could have
been disastrous.
A better solution is to control your HHO system so that it can only run when the key is
turned on. Some systems recommend this type of wiring. However, this is also not safe.
Consider what would happen if you stopped by your daughter's school to pick her up
after a sporting event. You are waiting for her while she gets dressed, and you are
listening to your CD player. Well, to do this, you must turn on the ignition key, even
though the engine is not running. And this means you will be making HHO that will be
accumulating in your engine compartment while you are waiting.
The point here is that you must have a fail-safe system for making sure that HHO is only
being produced while the engine is actually running& This allows all of the HHO that is
produced to be consumed and burned. Many manufacturers that supply HHO systems
provide a relay that will not allow the system to operate until the relay is activated.
However, if you are purchasing a system in parts, or building your own system, you will
have to provide circuitry for this for yourself. This article is designed to show you how to
create your own circuit to handle this function.
The B0siG CirGuit
The essence of the circuit you need is shown below. As you can see this circuit is
installed between your battery and your HHO Cell. It includes a circuit breaker
[automatic overload protection, that unlike a fuse can be reset] and a relay.
The circuit breaker is required so that if your cell tries to draw too many amps, the
breaker will open the circuit and prevent the system from being damaged. Then we see
the relay. The relay will not allow power to the HHO system until it is energized by 12
volts. If the 12 volt control voltage is ever removed, then the relay falls into the "off"
position, and the cell cannot operate.
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Circuit breakers come in a few different varieties, which differ in how they are reset once
they have blown. The most basic type is a manual reset, which requires that you press a
"reset" button to get the breaker to turn back on. These can be a little tiresome, so
there is a breaker with an automatic reset. These breakers are designed to heat up as
the current rises and when the current gets too high, they trip. But after they cool down
again, they will reset themselves.
We recommend using a third type of breaker, called a "modified reset" breaker. With
this type, it will auto reset, but only if the voltage coming in to it is cycled off, then back
on again. We like this type of breaker because if your system is drawing too much
current, causing the breaker to trip, then you need to fix something before continuing to
run the system. This way the system will stay off until you are able to stop and check
out what's wrong.
[Note: Del ity http:!!www"delcity"net offers e#cellent $modified reset$
circuit breakers for about %& each" 'art numbers: ())*+ for ), -mp, ()).,
for )* -mp, ()).& for &, -mp and ())./ for &* -mps" 0Ozzie]
,ire Sizes
Notice the wires going from the fuel pump relay to the our HHO system relay, and the
wire from our HHO relay to ground. This circuit will carry very little current or amperage.
The controlling circuit for an automotive relay will draw less than 150 milliamps (0.15
amps), which is a very tiny current. Therefore you can use just about any size wire you
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want for this part of the circuit. A 24 gauge wire would be plenty, which can carry an
amp or more. You may want to use a bit larger wire just so it will be less fragile in your
engine compartment.
The wires that are on the current path between your battery and your HHO cell will carry
much more current and must be sized appropriately. Notice the red lines in the diagram
above. These lines represent the wires that must be heavy gauge wire. The exact size
will depend on the circuit breaker you use. Your wire must be able to carry the full
current that your breaker will carry without tripping, even if your system is designed to
draw much less current. The reason is that if anything goes wrong causing your cell to
draw more current, it could be drawing as much as the circuit breaker will allow, and
must be large enough to carry it. For a 25 or 30 Amp breaker you must use 10 gauge
wire. For a 20 Amp breaker you can use 12 gauge, and for a 15 Amp breaker you can
use 14 gauge wire. Note, that these gauges are for stranded copper wire, and for best
results, you want to use wire that is specifically made for automotive use.
The Fuel Pum3 el0y
Notice that we are controlling this circuit from the Fuel Pump Relay. Automobiles have
already had to solve the problem of fuel delivery when the engine isn't running. It's
vital, for instance, that the fuel pump be shut down if the car is in an accident. The way
this is achieved is to shut down the power to the fuel pump when the engine stops
running. All but the oldest cars today have an electric fuel pump. This pump is controlled
by the Fuel Pump Relay which is designed to only be on when the engine is actually
running. There are 3 ways that I know of that this is achieved:
1) The car's computer controls the relay directly, turning it off if the engine ever stops
running,
2) Oil Pressure Switch (or Oil Pressure Sending Unit): In this case there is a switch that
will provide 12 volts when the engine is running, but if the engine stops, then the switch
falls into the "off" position, which turns off the relay and the fuel pump. In this case the
car's computer must first energize the fuel pump relay long enough for the car to get
started, then it shuts off its circuit and the Oil Pressure Sending Unit continues to
energize the circuit.
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor: Some vehicles have a switch incorporated into the Mass Air
Flow sensor. In this case instead of oil pressure, the flow of air into the engine is used to
keep a switch on that powers the fuel pump relay. In all other respects, this type of
system is the same as the Oil Pressure Switch.
This may be too much detail on how the Fuel Pump Relay circuit works, but this point is
so important I wanted you to have a better understanding of it. I am not familiar with
every make/model of car, and can't say for sure that all vehicles have a fuel pump relay
that will shut down when the engine is off as described here. It is vital that you test this
function for yourself. To test, you'll need to find the wire that goes between the fuel
pump relay and the fuel pump. Put a voltmeter on this wire and measure it with
reference to ground [chassis]. Then turn on your ignition key. Usually the relay will
come on for a second or two in order to charge the fuel system for starting, but then it
will shut off again. You will see 12 volts on your meter when the system is on, and 0
volts when it is off.
A more thorough test would be to run your engine, and then make it die without turning
off the ignition key. You should see 12 volts while the engine is running, and when it
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dies, your meter should drop to 0 volts after the engine revolutions slow down. How do
you make your engine die? Well one way is to cut the fuel pump relay wire to your fuel
pump. Since you are going to tap into this circuit anyway, you can do a final test to
make sure it is behaving correctly before trusting your life to it. The wire on the near
side of the cut should still read 12 volts until the engine winds down, and then it will
drop to 0 volts.
The FuelS02er-%P! PoIer Control %odule
We are currently in final prototyping of a unit that will provide this function that you will
be able to purchase from our store. It will have a couple of more bells and whistles. The
following diagram shows what its circuit board consists of. The Fuel Pump Relay is not
part of the circuit board, but is shown in the diagram for information purposes to show
where it would connect.
The terminal block is used to make connections to the circuit board for low current
carrying wires only. It will only take a maximum size of 16 gauge wire. For now we'll
just cover the new items. The ground terminal is where you will bring in a ground wire.
The only reason this board needs ground is so that the relay will operate. The relay
requires 12 volts to activate it, but it also has to have a ground connection.
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Next notice the 2 wires labeled "Amps +" and Amps -". These terminals lead to a shunt.
A shunt is a very high current, but low resistance value resistor. It has a very precise
resistance. As current increases through the shunt, it will develop a voltage differential
from one side of the shunt to the other. This shunt is designed so that for each amp of
current flowing, the voltage difference will be 1 millivolt. For instance if 25 amps are
flowing, then there will be 25 millivolts across the shunt. By connecting a voltmeter to
the 2 bottom terminals on the block, you will be able to read your amp draw very
precisely.
'dding 0 SIitGh to the CirGuit
I've been showing the circuitry in bits and pieces to make it easier for folks who aren't
used to reading schematic diagrams, and to keep explanations better compartmented.
But this diagram shows what comes inside the box with one of our purchased units, and
the switch represents the switch we provide to turn your system on and off. Notice how
the voltage from the Fuel Pump Relay must go through the switch, and only if the switch
is "on" will the current pass to the relay and turn the system on. Also note, that all of
these switch wires are low current, and small wire gauges can be used.
This final diagram shows how to wire a second switch. We designed our unit so that you
will have a switch on the Power Control Unit itself, but can also have a remote switch in
your passenger compartment. To add the remote switch, wire it as follows:
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The two switches are wired in series, which means that both switches must be ON for
the system to operate. We feel this is the most useful arrangement.
Summ0ry
The only components that are vital for safety are the ones shown in the top diagram,
above. You must make sure your HHO cell manufacturer has included these items, or
you must provide them yourself. This is vital for your safety and for the safety of those
who ride in your car. The rest of the diagrams are to show you how we are
implementing this circuit in our professionally produced switching circuit. I hope it helps
you improve the safety and functionality of your system.
--End of article by Mike Kehrli--
To p'rchase T(E "NIT DES&RI)ED $)O*E +isit
III&,0ter1!0s&Gom;1;Cuels02er-m3g&htm
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CH'PT" 11 CH'PT" 11
")"CTO)Y$" I(ST'))'TIO( = FI(') ")"CTO)Y$" I(ST'))'TIO( = FI(')
ST"PS ST"PS
S"C-I(! TH" #"+IC" S"C-I(! TH" #"+IC"
The photo shows the final installation in my Toyota Corolla '99. Note the absence of
bottom support - I left the jar hanging on the edge of the washer fluid reservoir. It
never fell down no matter the road/speed.
The bungees are pretty tight but they still allow for easy removal of the device without
removing any of the bungees.
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FI(') S"T-P FI(') S"T-P
Fill the jar with DISTILLED WATER, leaving 1 of free space at the top. Add 1
teaspoon of catalyst (such as pure Baking Soda). Close the jar tightly by hand
force.
Adding 1 more teaspoon will generate much more HHO (hydrogen-oxygen
mixture) but may blow the fuse or overheat, in which case you should replace it
with a higher rating fuse (15-20 Amps works for me, see notes on fuse selection
below).
THE JAR MAY GET HOT. Refer to further chapters and the troubleshooting guide
for proper tuning.
THE JAR WONT CRACK IF PROPERLY HANDLED - BUT )"T IT COO) OFF
B"FO" '##I(! CO)# ,'T" OR ATTEMPTING ANY MAINTENANCE ACTION.
Inspect the installation visually. Make sure all electrical connections are tight
(HAND FORCE ONLY) and the lid is screwed tight on the jar.
F-S" S")"CTIO( F-S" S")"CTIO(
I have found a 15 Amps useful for moderate production of HHO - using 1 teaspoon of
Baking Soda for 1 quart of water (with 12 Volts it will draw about 3 Amp). For higher
HHO production mix 1 FLAT teaspoons of Baking Soda into 1 quart of water, and
replace the fuse with a 20 Amps fuse (the device will draw around 4 Amps in idling).
,0tGh out Cor 3ossi/le de2iGe o2erhe0ting* es3eGi0lly in hot Ie0ther... If the
device overheats, lower the ratio of Baking Soda to water and refer to the
troubleshooting section.
'#P-ST%"(T '#P-ST%"(T
Start with NO electricity, by taking out the fuse or leaving one of the terminals
disconnected (make sure it doesn't touch metal parts of the car to prevent fuse
blowout).
Turn the "Bubbler Cap fully CLOCKWISE.
Then turn it half-turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
Turn the engine on and watch the bubbling action coming out of the lower end of
the thin tubing inside the device (here by the way is the great advantage of
having a strong glass jar instead of metal or non clear plastic - total
transparency and visibility!)
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Gradually turn the Bubbler Cap and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust
the valve until there is a sm0ll amount of bubbling action.
Turn off the engine.
Connect the electricity back on and make sure all connections are tight (hand
force).
Start the engine again and watch the electrolyzing action between the spiral
electrodes. A yellowish gas (HHO!) will start forming and flow toward the top of
the jar.
Within a short time (roughly 30-60 seconds), you may notice that the engine
starts to sound quite differently - smoother and quieter. Its RPM may be unstable
for a couple of minutes. This is norm0l - the HHO is starting to change the
combustion cycle and cancels the pinging - and the engine is now adjusting to
the changes.
Some road experiments indicated that better economy may be achieved with the
bubbling totally shut off. However, it's safer to leave some bubbling even if very
low, because it keeps the HHO moist at all times.
Bill Lang, the original developer of this Electrolyzer, offered his bubbling
techniques: tune ZERO BUBBLING in Electrolyzer, and LOW BUBBLING in
Vaporizer.
Do your tests, monitor the results and (voluntarily) report back your findings for
the benefit of our community. The broader the experiment base, the more
certainty there will be on the best overall tuning.
T-(I(!* "(H'(C"S* F-") '##ITI+"S* "TC& T-(I(!* "(H'(C"S* F-") '##ITI+"S* "TC&
For some cars, the Electrolyzer is all that's needed for optimum gas economy. For
others, some enhancement is necessary (especially stock cars 1995 and newer).
Refer to ,0ter1!0s Book 2 for recommended road test methods, fine tuning,
troubleshooting and maintenance. This book, however, describes the inst0ll0tion
instruGtions for the recommended add-ons/enhancers.
(O +'POI$" P)"'S"... (O +'POI$" P)"'S"...
Although nothing has been said about installing a Vaporizer WITH the Electrolyzer, some
readers got this idea by confusing sources.
There is no such ,0ter1!0s system - you either install an Electrolyzer or you install a
Vaporizer - never together in the same vehicle. It's not necessary and may even
prevent HHO from reaching the engine.
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CH'PT" 15 CH'PT" 15
#I"S") I(ST'))'TIO( #I"S") I(ST'))'TIO(
This chapter describes a simplified diesel installation. I have documented for your free
use the complete diesel installation on an 18-wheeler and a diesel car - read all about it
in the ,0ter1!0s DIESEL BOOK (Book 3 in this series).
%'(Y H'+" 'SK"#: K#O"S THIS ,OK O( #I"S")SBL %'(Y H'+" 'SK"#: K#O"S THIS ,OK O( #I"S")SBL
Answer: ABSOLUTELY!
As far as I have learned and experimented, DIESELS LOVE HYDROGEN. Experimental
diesels that Ive seen or worked with worldwide - whether test cars, pickup trucks, 18-
wheelers (12.7 liter turbo diesels) and large stationary generators (19 liter turbo diesel
in the oil drilling site I told you about in Book 1-A) gained better fuel economy.
When I purchased my VW Jetta TDI (shown above) it was in good condition but pretty
sluggish, yet a single ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer boosted its performance and acceleration
considerably.
Diesel installations are usually much simpler, even if you have a Turbo Charger and an
Inter-Cooler, and the results are indicating an oncoming diesel revolution!
Diesels converted to use VEGGIE OIL or BIO DIESEL should also enjoy from ,0ter1!0s
technology. On two standard non-converted Volkswagen Jetta TDI (turbo diesel
injection), models 2002 and 1999, the reports were good. At the time of writing I'm
planning to experiment various Hydrogen-On-Demand systems in conjunction with
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UNHEATED veggie oil (just my personal preference to bio-diesel), a Fuel Heater, diesel-
specific fuel additives, and whatever else comes my way for diesel such as better air and
oil filters, aiming at better fuel economy.
The interesting aspect that I observed in diesels was how EASY it was to gain better
economy. My understanding is this: since there is no computerized valve timing
Gontrol* the fast-ignited Hydrogen will not have to "argue" with a stubborn computer or
rigid timing system, but will rather ignite at a better timing (more evened out over the
combustion cycle). This might not be true for all new models, but in my estimation is
true for most diesel trucks running on the road today.
In short, I believe that diesels are the way to go!
Jerry Young says: "After installing your ,0ter1!0s 6-Pack on a big rig truck (18-
wheel lorry), you have to wait several tankfulls to start seeing mileage gain.
Much more in ,0ter1!0s Book 3.
%"CH'(IC') I(ST'))'TIO( %"CH'(IC') I(ST'))'TIO(
Diesel installation is quite simple. The first problem is that the jars with plastic cap,
especially after some heating, lose their ability to seal properly from vacuum (or
pressure) leaks. The first thing to do is to seal them shut, so the expanding HHO can
push itself out of the Electrolyzer and into the engine.
Below I have outlined only those few points that differ from the regular installation
already outlined in earlier chapters. Additionally, you will see a complete diesel
installation in ,0ter1!0s Book 3, with many photos and details.
Plug the safety check valve - or dont put one in if youre building the Electrolyzer
for diesels.
Plug the second HHO output if you have two on the Electrolyzer at hand (or dont
put it in if youre building the Electrolyzer specifically for diesels).
Many experimenters have found that they were having a hard time getting the
white plastic lid to properly seal the jar - unless you apply great force to it (and
sometimes even that doesn't do the trick). To get a tight vacuum seal with less
effort, use a rubber O-ring or gasket inside the lid (where it touches the top of
the jar).
Some use gaskets made to order from EDPM (Ethylene-Propylene-Diene
Monomer which is uncured rubber), neoprene (synthetic rubber) or natural
rubber, some use "Form-a-Gasket" which is a paste type product available in
auto parts stores and Ace Hardware. I have never used any of these in my
vehicles (and got good mileage despite minor leaks), but considering the effort to
open and close the lid, I'd love to start using the O-ring solution, which I like
better than gaskets because it's more readily available at almost any size.
For myself, I visited www.Water4Gas.com and ordered a set of ready-made
gaskets. The price was so low that wasn't worth the trouble of making them.
They work well.
Alternatively use the metal lid when building the Electrolyzer. They tend to have
far less pressure/vacuum leak. Several ,0ter1!0s experimenters have been
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successful using RUBBER GROMMETS (great solution for the metal lids) or rubber
washers to seal the jar's lid leaks. That's useful Cor se0ling the eleGtriG0l
termin0ls& The rest of lid leaks solve quickly with good old Plumbers Goop or
similar strong glue like Gorilla Glue, J-B Weld epoxy or (Australia) Quiksteel
epoxy.
Some Electrolyzer builders used only the RIM part of the metal lid, and replaced
the metal lid (the flat part) with an acrylic (Plexiglas) plate cut to size. I think
3/16 (5 mm) thickness proved plenty strong.
Seal every other possible leak in the system:
- Check all the hoses for cracks or breakage,
- Check each fitting for leaks,
- Check each fitting on your output manifold and the manifold itself, if you have
one (that's in the "Multi-Cell arrangement that will be discussed later).
Install only one HHO output - and connect it to the air intake or the air filter box.
I am not sure which is best - both seem to work well. Make sure your HHO
enters BEFORE the turbocharger, as shown in the diagram below:
")"CTIC') I(ST'))'TIO( ")"CTIC') I(ST'))'TIO(
For the eleGtriG0l GonneGtions follow the same rules and diagrams provided previously
in the Electrolyzer Installation chapter.
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CH'PT" 16 CH'PT" 16
+'POI$" I(ST'))'TIO( +'POI$" I(ST'))'TIO(
THIS IS (OT '( '##ITIO( TO TH" ")"CTO)Y$". THIS IS (OT '( '##ITIO( TO TH" ")"CTO)Y$".
I never mentioned installing a Vaporizer WITH an Electrolyzer, but some readers got this
idea by confusing sources. No such ,0ter1!0s system - you either install an
Electrolyzer or you install a Vaporizer - never together in the same vehicle.
HO, TO T-( '( ")"CTO)Y$" I(TO ' +'POI$" HO, TO T-( '( ")"CTO)Y$" I(TO ' +'POI$"
1. Use your Electrolyzer (HHO generator) in "H2O Mode by simply disconnecting
the electricity. Or...
2. Use the chapter on "Building a Vaporizer" which is simpler and much cheaper.
You can use T'P ,'T" in this mode. Again, (O electrical power! One or both
electrical lines, if exist, should be disconnected and isolated, or the fuse taken out.
This is 2ery useCul in Creezing Ie0ther:
"Add 1 oz of GASOLINE ANTIFREEZE FLUID ,'SH" F)-I# to a jar of TAP water
(distilled water OK too), and use this to boost your engine in the cold winter months.
More anti-freezing solutions: see the section on freezing problems in the
Troubleshooting chapter.
I(ST'))I(! TH" +'POI$" I(ST'))I(! TH" +'POI$"
Mount the ,0ter1!0s Vaporizer in the engine compartment. It should be mounted flat
and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when
the vehicle hits bumps etc. Position the device so that it is easy to access and can be
conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or inspected.
A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumbers
strap. In other cases a small rubber pad and/or two bungee cords may be adequate.
Cool location is less of a problem since the device will stay cooler than in HHO mode.
The Vaporizer is operated by vacuum pressure from your car engine. As shown in the
vacuum diagram below, vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car
systems, and you should best use the vacuum line that gets the highest vacuum.
You should be able to detect substantial vacuum pressure coming from the line you are
connecting to. If you want to know exactly, and especially if youre going to install in
more than one car, a good vacuum gauge is available from Harbor Freight Tools for
about $10 (www.harborfreight.com or phone 843-676-2603).
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Connect the vacuum line from the jar, to a vacuum line that runs to the intake manifold.
Make the connection as close as possible to the intake manifold. If the vehicle has a
carburetor, make the connection at or below the base of the carburetor. Frequently in
older vehicles, there are spare ports available for this purpose. The PCV valve line
usually makes a good connection. Vehicles with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) should
also be connected at or near the intake manifold.
A universal vacuum line T-Connector is necessary as well as a length of vacuum hose to
make the connection. A wide range of vacuum fittings is readily available at any auto
parts store (plastic fittings will do for this use). Thick vinyl hoses will also fit as long as
they don't touch a hot spot in the engine /ut must /e thiGk enough to hold Dnot
Grum/le underE 20Guum&
')T"('TI+" +'C--% CO(("CTIO( = #-') S-PP)Y ')T"('TI+" +'C--% CO(("CTIO( = #-') S-PP)Y
Refer to the diagram below. In this setup a SECOND line is connected from the device to
the 0ir int0ke of the engine. Use a universal vacuum line T-Connector to make the
connection. To connect the second pipe to the air intake or air filter housing, use a brass
or plastic fitting, or optionally drill a small hole and glue the pipe to the duct or filter
housing.
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FI(') S"T-P ? '#P-ST%"(T FI(') S"T-P ? '#P-ST%"(T
Fill the jar with ordin0ry T'P ,'T". Leave 1 of free space at the top. Start the
engine and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the Bubbler Cap (the rotary
valve on the top of the jar) until there is a sm0ll amount of bubbling action.
Thats it. Your ,0ter1!0s "H2O system is now ready to go!
Watch the level of water weekly and add water as needed. Depending on engine and
weather, in my experience one jar of water should be enough for 3000 miles (although
in some cars it dries up faster due to engine heat and/or strong bubbling setting).
Unlike the Electrolyzer in which there are electrodes to cover with water, this unit will
still function with less than of its water capacity. I'd say when water level goes down
between and - it's time to refill.
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I(ST'))I(! ' +'POI$" I( #I"S") "(!I("S I(ST'))I(! ' +'POI$" I( #I"S") "(!I("S
I never tried installing a Vaporizer on a diesel, but it's possible. Since there is no HHO to
expand and push itself to the engine - you must supply pressure from the vehicle (or an
aquarium pump). Remove the UPPER PART (the revolving cap) of the Bubbler Cap and
insert the hose from the pump into the stationary part of the bubbler.
If you're building any Vaporizer specially for diesel installation, replace the Bubbler Cap
with a simple elbow or coupling.
Regulate (limit) its flow using a small plastic valve, to prevent too much bubbling. Not
that it's dangerous, but it will use up up the water too quickly and there would be more
vapor than is necessary.
The diagram below illustrates a principal installation of a Vaporizer to a turbo-diesel
engine, using a small aquarium pump. There should be pressure available on most
diesels, such as supplied to the braking system - ask your mechanic where and how to
s0Cely tap onto an available source of pressure. ,0ter1!0s Book 3 will also show you
how it can be done (on a big turbo-diesel truck).
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CH'PT" 11 CH'PT" 11
%-)TI-C")) %-)TI-C"))
,H'T C'( THIS #O FO %"B ,H'T C'( THIS #O FO %"B
Good question. Before we go into the technicalities, you should know that we've had
success with the use of this simple design on two "big rigs (18-wheel truck) - they
reported very good mileage gains with the Multi-Cell systems shown below.
The truck drivers/owners reported saving $100's/week, and that their trucks pulled
better uphill with the old engines (over 1 million miles) felling "like new once more!
,HY -S" %-)TI-C"))B ,HY -S" %-)TI-C"))B
Now let's continue into the technical stuff. The description below is borrowed from
Patrick Kelly's "Practical Guide to 'Free Energy' Devices:
1he current flowin2 throu2h the cell determines its 33O production"
1his is an absolutely key factor in 2as production, and one of the
most difficult to control accurately and economically" 1he 2reater
the current, the 2reater the rate of 2as production"
1he current is controlled by the concentration of catalyst in the
water and the volta2e across the cell" 1he volta2e across the cell
has limited effect as it reaches a ma#imum at )"&/ volts" 4p to that
point, an increase in volta2e causes an increase in 2as production
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rate" Once the volta2e 2ets over this limit, increasin2 it further
produces no further increase in the rate of 2as production"
5f the volta2e is increased above )"&/ volts, the e#tra volta2e 2oes
to heat the water" 1his can be a sli2ht advanta2e, but not much"
61he advanta2e is that heat creates more water vapor which is 2ood
for coolin2 down the en2ine"7
8et9s look at the math" :e9ll simplify it here for the sake of
understandin2" -ssume that the current throu2h the cell is & amps"
5n that case, the power used to produce 2as is & amps # )"&/ volts ;
&"/+ watts" :hen the en2ine is runnin2, the volta2e at the car9s
battery terminals will be about )<"+ volts as the alternator
provides the e#tra volta2e to drive current into the battery" 1he
e#cess volta2e applied to the cell is about )"&/ less than that, say
)&"* volts"
1he power which heats the water is now )&"* volts # & amps ; &*
watts" 1hat is more than ten times the power bein2 used to produce
2as= 1his is very, very inefficient" 1he followin2 dia2ram will help
you understand the situation"
In short: The more cells, the less heat and more HHO. Or, more correctly, higher energy
efficiency for HHO production. This is true up to a certain number of cells.
So the best way to reduce heat and increase HHO production is to reduce the voltage
applied to the cell by using more than one cell, or in other words several cells connected
in a daisy-chain across the battery. With two cells, each cell will get about 6-7 volts
across its terminals and the gas production will be roughly doubled (2 cells). If space in
the engine compartment allows, theoretically a chain of six cells can be used which
Water4Gas Book 1-B 91
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means each would receive about two volts and the waste power should be reduced to an
absolute minimum - while the gas production should theoretically be six times higher.
As you will see below, actual experimentation with ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzers have found
different optimal points.
With the higher rate of gas production, it would probably be possible to reduce the
chosen current flowing through the cell (good for smaller batteries and alternators such
as in gas scooters and go carts). Also, with six cells, the amount of water is obviously
siH times gre0ter and should last longer.
Let's summarize the benefits of the multi-cell setup:
1. Multiply HHO production,
2. Reduce heat,
3. More water stored in the system.
HO, TO B-I)# ' %-)TI-C"))B HO, TO B-I)# ' %-)TI-C"))B
!"("') #"SCIPTIO( '(# TH" QO)#Q #"SI!(
I tried this design in the "old days of 2007... We will look at the new design in a
minute, but first let's take a look at the basics. This is particularly important to know for
those who are already familiar with ,0ter1!0s six-cell, or "6-pack as they call it.
If there is room in the engine compartment, then anything up to seven of these cells
may be installed and connected in series across the battery. The old ,0ter1!0s multi-
cell design had a hard-to-make pipe work that was daisy-chained from one cell to
another. The air was being drawn into the engine passing through each cell, picking up
more and more gas on the way, as shown below:
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Additionally, distribution of the electric voltage was different. The upper part of the
diagram shows the electrical connection between the cells while the lower part of the
diagram shows how the hoses are connected.
While the cells are shown side by side in the diagram, they can be positioned in any
convenient location(s) in the engine compartment. As the temperature in the engine
compartment can be quite high, the cell housings needs to be unaffected by high
temperatures, which make some plastic containers unsuitable for this use.
Current inst0ll0tion = diCCerent eleGtriG0l GonneGtion
I used 6 glass jars and positioned them between the radiator and the front bumper of
my Toyota Corolla:
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TH" (", '(# I%PO+"# ,'T"1!'S %-)TI-C")) TH" (", '(# I%PO+"# ,'T"1!'S %-)TI-C"))
I am in the process of perfecting this design it, so no final results are yet available.
However, I believe the new design will yield better on-the-road results. What is already
known is that the new ,0ter1!0s multi-cell improves on the old one in several key
factors:
1. First of all, each single device is built with the same materials, structure and
procedures described in earlier chapters, so they can now be duplicated more
Water4Gas Book 1-B 94
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easily. From personal experience I can tell you, this standardization alone will
make it much easier on you. The old design had tricky plumbing.
2. It allows for expansion to any number of cells. You can build a "12-pack" (I
already have as you will see below) and place it in the trunk or the truck's bed, or
go wherever the imagination takes you. 36-pack? Why not? If your engine is
large and your alternator can take it, I can see no reason why not.
3. Electrical connection: instead of all cells (Electrolyzers) in series, it's only two in
series at a time, always paired up, giving 6 Volts to each and every cell no matter
the total number of cells.
Through trial and error I HAVE FOUND 6 VOLTS TO BE THE OPTIMAL VOLTAGE
Ihen Iorking Iith B0king Sod0&
Connect each such pair in parallel to another pair as shown in the diagram above.
The electrical current taken from the vehicle would be a multiplication of the
number of 30irs you connect. For example, if e0Gh of your pairs takes 2 Amps,
and you have 10 Amps to spare, you can connect five pairs in parallel.
4. The spiral has been doubled in density. Here's why: The regular design of
,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer calls for a spiral electrode, spread about " to 3/8"
apart. AT 6 VOLTS it takes too little current with one or two teaspoons of baking
soda. I was therefore enforced to use EIGHT teaspoons (per quart jar!) to get as
much current as possible. This yielded only in 2.2 amps flowing through each cell,
and no more. Why no more? Because the water gets saturated at 8 teaspoons,
and refuses to take more. (Some tell me to replace the Baking Soda with KOH or
other chemicals and get more current, but I'd rather keep everybody in the safe
zone of Baking Soda and other safe alternatives such as Sodium Citrate).
Now with the new design, double density coil ( steps) results in at least double
the current. I now start with 4 teaspoons and fine tune by trial and error for best
performance. Each cell can now operate at 4-5 amps without overheating, due to
the lower voltage as explained in the theoretical part above.
I mean, a single cell operating under 12 volts is starting to get too hot with 4
amps (depending on the weather and location under the hood) and sometimes
creates a meltdown. But with lower heat being generated due to the lower
voltage, this could be the ideal setup. See, 4 amps multiplied by 3 gives me a
consumption of 12 Amps in my improved multi-cell design. Only 144 Watt that
the car can easily provide, yet great HHO production, estimated 5-6 times
stronger than a single-jar Electrolyzer.
Below is a photo series showing double density coil, about 1/4" (6mm) between wires.
This is done to increase the current (hence HHO production) at 6 volts:
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If winding the coil at
such a tight pitch
(step) gives you a
hard time, cut small
grooves into the sides
of the towers.
The grooves don't
have to be deep, just
deep enough to stop
the wire.
The grooves could be
symmetrical on all
sides, but you'd better
make one side biased
by 1/8" (3mm) to
create a smooth coil.
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I%POT'(T - meGh0niG0l GonneGtion
The old design had the HHO hoses going from cell number 1 to cell number 2, and from
there to cell number 3 and so forth. This created an uneven vacuum throughout the
design, and if there are more than 6 cells I think the vacuum will get lost - some of the
cells further away from the engine might leak via the safety valve into the atmosphere,
lowering the effectiveness of the entire arrangement.
Now the cells are getting an even vacuum supply. Each cell has the same design: one
bubbler valve (see photo below), one safety release valve, one HHO output (block one if
you happen to have two hoses already, or better yet connect it to the manifold for better
flow).
If you have only two cells, one universal vacuum-T will do to connect them together
(combining the outputs). A manifold is needed if there are 4 or more cells. The manifold
can be a larger tubing, or a small plastic bottle. Make sure to make the manifold from a
sturdy bottle or tubing, so it doesn't collapse under the strong vacuum.
Below is a photo showing simple connection between two Electrolyzers (in case of 4
or more you'd better use some kind of a manifold instead of T-Connectors):
Ready made Manifolds, for 6 or more cells, can be obtained
via the product catalog at www.Water4Gas.com
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%O" #'T' O( ")"CTIC') S"T-PS %O" #'T' O( ")"CTIC') S"T-PS
In a series of tests I've conducted during April 2007 in my Toyota Corolla, the electrical
design where all 6 cells are in series (see "Arrangement A" in the diagram below), has
failed miserably. Told you it was just theory ;-)
My preliminary experiment showed me that TWO CELLS worked well together: there was
more HHO and the cells stayed pretty cold. Once I put ALL SIX CELLS IN SERIES, it
acted weird. Each cell was getting an even 2 volts as expected, but the current flowing
through was only 5 milliamp (five thousands of an Ampere) and therefore HHO
production was next to zero.
I started adding more and more baking soda. By the time EACH CELL had 36 (!!!)
teaspoons of baking soda, the current went up by 1 lousy milliamp... At that point I gave
up on working with 2 volts.
After testing several setups shown below, I chose the arrangement where e0Gh 30ir oC
Gells gets 15 +olts, as shown below:
I've seen several experimenters who use Arrangement B with success. The diagram
below shows more details of my preferred setup (Arrangement C) that got the best
success rate for more experimenters.
In the next diagram, the HHO outputs (green lines) are collected by one manifold and
from there are sucked into the engine.
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%"CH'(IC') S"T-P %"CH'(IC') S"T-P
I found the front area of many cars and trucks most convenient for installing the multi-
cell. Six cells will probably fit nicely, in a line, just in front of the radiator. Some of the
air to the radiator would be blocked, but not all if you leave some space between the
cells. Air stream will then curve itself around the cells and reach the radiator.
Additionally, if we take into consideration the cooling effect of these cells on the engine,
there shouldn't be a problem with some blockage of air stream.
As for heat, the cells would be in one of the coolest places under the hood. But make
sure to protect the jars AND RADIATOR from mechanical shock by well-glued foam
stripes, or similar shock absorbing material.
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Other options:
1. Relocate the battery TO THE TRUNK
2. Replace the air filter box with an aftermarket filter such as K&N, leaving a lot of
room for 4-6 Electrolyzers.
3. Also, consider placing the multi-cell in the trunk, and connecting the HHO output
to a thick hose going through the vehicle's body all the way to the engine (if
there's not enough vacuum, and only there really IS a vacuum problem such as
in diesel, add a small vacuum pump to enhance the vacuum and convey the HHO
to the engine).
I've done this in my Volkswagen Jetta and it works well. My mechanic used a
very durable hose and secured it UNDER the car. There was no problem in 1000's
of miles across country and in all harsh weather conditions.
The photos below show my mechanical installation in a Toyota. The materials: Hanger
Strap from Home Depot (bar code 03875333929-0 or similar) and bolts/nuts.
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OTH" I(ST'))'TIO( CO(SI#"'TIO(S OTH" I(ST'))'TIO( CO(SI#"'TIO(S
The way to connect a multi-cell to the engine is pretty simple and straightforward as
described above. If you're using the dual HHO connection, which means you supply HHO
to both the Intake Manifold of the engine AND the Air Intake, then two output check
valves are recommended as usual.
In my opinion there is no room for a sloppy job when it comes to a multi-cell
arrangement of any size. Since there are so many places that the electrical connection
or the mechanical connection can go wrong, you have to make sure that:
There are no loose electrical connections, and
There are no vacuum leaks anywhere on the Electrolyzers, the manifold or the
hose leading to the engine.
Below you can see a typical installation for turbo-diesel TRUCKS (or any other turbo-
charged engine). In this configuration, a large manifold is installed between the air filter
and the air intake tube (air duct), and all HHO outputs are connected individually into
that manifold:
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In the diagram and photo below you can see another typical installation for turbo-diesel
trucks, where the manifold is separate from the air intake tube (air duct). Only one hose
connects to the air intake tube. This configuration is easier to make, and should work
well too. The photo shows how the HHO hose is connected in one of the 18-wheelers.

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HO, TO %'K" ' %'(IFO)# HO, TO %'K" ' %'(IFO)#
One experimenter from South Dakota asked where to get the manifold. He said there
are no gardening supplies anywhere around there. My answer was:
You don't need gardening supplies to make a manifold.
Just take a big tubing that will serve as the collecting tube. For example a 1 PVC
tube. Smaller will do too, just make it big enough to attach adapters to it. You
don't want it too large because it will become an HHO storage tank, and we don't
want and don't need that.
Drill six holes (or whatever number of cells you have).
Insert small nipples or hose adapters of some sort into each hole. It could be
irrigation adapters, or anything that can fit your vacuum tubing coming from the
cells.
Drill and attach one more OUTPUT adapter, to fit a larger hose of your choice
(such as 3/8) that will lead the HHO to the engine.
Glue all nipples/adapters tight, let harden.
That's it - you've got a manifold! Attach the vacuum hoses, one from each of the
cells.
Make sure there are no vacuum leaks or blocked passages.
Additionally, ready made Manifolds can be obtained at www.Water4Gas.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 103
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HO, TO C"'T" ' +"(T-I "FF"CTB HO, TO C"'T" ' +"(T-I "FF"CTB
"Venturi effect (named after the Italian Physicist Giovanni Battista Venturi) is simply a
low pressure, or in other words SUCTION, created by airflow over an opening, usually
slanted, or a constricted section of pipe. We want to create this suction because it will
help pull all the HHO out of the Multi-Cell.
Simply hook up the output of the Multi-Cell manifold - to the air tube IN $ S($R%
FOR,$RD $N#E (in the direction of the air flow), as shown below:
"AP"I%"(T'TIO( SHO,"# )O, %'I(T"('(C" "AP"I%"(T'TIO( SHO,"# )O, %'I(T"('(C"
"8-I"# "8-I"#
The arrangement with the three pairs has been working in my car for a long time WITH
VERY LITTLE MAINTENANCE. The devices always stay very cool, and the water goes
down very slowly, and produces a lot of HHO.
It now draws a total of roughly 10.5 Amps, or 3.5 Amps per line. This means each cell
consumes 6.5 volts x 3.5 amps = 22.75 Watts. That's bird feed. Multiply that by six cells
and the entire multi-cell dances on only 136 Watts! It's less than the halogen headlamps
(180 Watts). Many car stereo systems today consume more than that.
In 2007, after 4 months of driving with zero maintenance, the water was not very dirty,
the stainless steel electrodes grade 302/304 (not the good grade 316L that I use now)
did not corrode by much and water level went down only 25%. I cleaned the electrodes
with toothbrush and tap water, reversed the polarity and the set was like near-new
again. I like the ide0 oC h02ing to ser2iGe the system only 6 times 0 ye0r...
Water4Gas Book 1-B 104
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You can see some more details in the photographs below. The arrangement shown in
these photographs is electrically connected in three pairs as recommended above. When
the photos were taken, HHO was still being fed from cell #1 to cell #2 and so forth, and
finally collected with a SINGLE hose from the output of cell #6 to the engine.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 105
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This is how each of the six cells looked like after 4 months of testing. You can see that
most of the water is still there - I could have gone 6-7 months without adding water:
After a wash and a little scrubbing with an old toothbrush under water, it looked almost
as good as new:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 106
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B"TT" F-") "CO(O%Y - HO, %-CH B"TT"B B"TT" F-") "CO(O%Y - HO, %-CH B"TT"B
I've been asked by many who saw my Multi-Cell, for the exact advantage, in MPG. Or in
other words: "Why would I go through the trouble of building and installing many cells?
Good question. I performed comparison road tests with my Toyota Corolla '99, and my
numbers indicated that my Multi-Cell (6 Electrolyzers) was 18%* more efficient than a
single Electrolyzer of the same type and size. This was true for MY CAR AND MY
DRIVING.
[*Let me explain the 18% - it doesn't mean mileage g0in inGre0se (for example) from
5% to 23%, but rather the mile0ge itselC (for example again) from 10 to 18 MPG].
Is it worth it? Depends on how important it is to you to save more fuel. The most
significant advantage, for me, was being able to drive 4-6 months without maintenance
OR refill. While saving some more fuel of course.
%Y (", 15 P'CK %Y (", 15 P'CK
The photos below show my latest Multi-Cell: this is a "12-pack arranged in pairs as in
"Arrangement C discussed earlier.
As shown it was placed in the trunk for lack of any other space large enough for a crate
or box. The car is a Volkswagen Jetta with a TDI (turbo diesel injected) 1.8 liter engine.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 107
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This system is still experimental. I am checking into the following questions:
1. Is the aquarium pump really needed? I pretty much know it's going to be
necessary in the car shown, because it's a turbo diesel car. There no vacuum on
the HHO line, and it seems reasonable to pull the HHO out of the 12-pack so it
can reach the engine (the 12-pack is currently installed in the trunk).
2. What are the effects of adding a PWM on the overall efficiency of the system?
PWM stands for Pulse Width Modifier. It is an electronic circuit that "chops" the
12 volts supply into pulses (voltage in smaller time units instead of continual
supply). PWM is said to enhance production efficiency and limit current. What I
currently know about PWM technology is published in ,0ter1!0s Book 2.
3. Are the individual HHO hoses thick enough? The ones shown in the photos are
1/4" irrigation hoses, and I intend to replace them with my standard 7/32"
vacuum hoses.
4. How fast will the water go down, per 1000 mile?
5. Any heat problems? From the 6-pack experience, probably not. But let's see what
happens when I make each Electrolyzer work harder (more Baking Soda - higher
current).
6. How much current is necessary? I plan on fine tuning the system to draw a
maximum of 25-30 amps.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 108
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You're welcome to experiment and share your Multi-Cell experience and feedbacks at
www.Water4Gas.com
Multi-Cell system created by one of my students,
displayed in a public ,0ter1!0s event (2008)
Water4Gas Book 1-B 109
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CH'PT" 19 CH'PT" 19
PC+ "(H'(C" I(ST'))'TIO( PC+ "(H'(C" I(ST'))'TIO(
I%POT'(T - "CO%%"(#"# HOS" TYP" I%POT'(T - "CO%%"(#"# HOS" TYP"
To connect the PCV Enhancer to the engine, I recommend to use only the type of hose
shown below from your ('P' 'uto P0rts Store: Fuel Hose (or fuel line) - PC+;""C
Hose
Store locator at http://www.napaautocare.com/store-finder.aspx
DO NOT USE REGULAR RUBBER HOSES because they will warp and possibly crack under
the high temperature of PCV air flows. Vinyl tubing will shrink under the strong vacuum,
thus blocking free passage.
The H-176 hose manufactured by Gates will fit 3/8 PCV's which is normal size. In
case you need a different size for your PCV line, consult the manufacturer:
The Gates Rubber Co.
1551 Wewatta Street
Denver, CO 80202, USA
Phone: 303-744-1911
Website: http://www.gates.com
I(ST'))'TIO( POC"#-" I(ST'))'TIO( POC"#-"
Warmly recommended: clean the existing PCV valve in thinner, or replace it with a new
one.
First, locate the PCV Valve if you haven't done it so far. WikiPedia.org says regarding
possible locations:
>1he '? valve connects the crankcase to the intake manifold from a
location more@or@less opposite the breather connection" 1ypical
locations include the opposite valve cover that the breather tube
connects to on a ?@en2ine" - typical location is the valve cover6s7,
althou2h some en2ines place the valve in locations far from the
valve cover"A
Your car's maintenance manual (find it at your the auto parts store) tells you right away
where each major part is located. Usually it will be in the first few pages in the engine-
related book. A free source to help you locate the PCV is www.AutoZone.com - click
"Repair Info and then select "Components Location.
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Under the hood, choose an easy to reach space for the PCV Enhancer. The device itself
needs only a small space - but remember that you'll need access to check the
contamination level and also be able to reach it with your hand for cleaning.
The best position would be below the level of the intake manifold (to enable water to
sink into the device after the engine has stopped, rather than dripping back into the
engine). Due to its plastic parts, it is also recommended to keep the PCV Enhancer away
from engine heat as much as possible, but no more than 2 feet away.
I chose a location at the level of the PCV itself and easily accessible from the side of the
car, near the brake drum.
If you want to, and if there is something in the vicinity to hang on to, you can add
brackets to the PCV Enhancer (use the 4 threads at the upper body of the PCV
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Enhancer, they look like they'll take standard 1/8 screws). Then install those brackets
to the car. If not, attach the device using bungee cords. To protect the device it can be
positioned into a plastic can and/or padded with durable foam.
Disconnect the hose
attached to the PCV Valve.
Make sure you understand
where the air flow is going in the
system (start the engine for a
second and see for yourself if
you're not sure).
This is important because the
PCV Enhancer has a certain
AIRFLOW DIRECTION even
though it may seem
symmetrical at first look.
Connect the O-TP-T of the PCV Enhancer [the filter housing is usually embossed or
marked with IN and OUT markings] to the intake manifold port for the PCV Valve, as
shown in the picture below. Use 3/8 hose. You can use the original hose if it can reach
the location of the enhancer, but they are usually too short.
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IMPORTANT: The hoses should not have any low spots that might collect water (since
this water will freeze in cold weather and block the PCV system). Any liquid that may
accumulate in the input or output hoses should be free to run into the PCV Enhancer
once the engine is shut off.
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Inspect the installation visually. Make sure all hoses are secured with clamps. Make sure
the filter bowl (the transparent part in this case) is tight - h0nd tight only!
Add a cap at the bottom opening on the PCV Enhancer. Closing the valve will not
actually close it because the Husky/Kobalt filters were designed for POSITIVE
pressure and will stay open under vacuum. The cap can be any cap, even as simple
as a piece of hose with a bolt tightly screwed into it (or a spare glass/metal ball).
Start the engine and check the system by observing the transparent filter bowl. You
should be able to see condensation - this is an indication that the system is working.
It is advisable to protect this device by placing it into
a plastic bowl or bottle, as shown here:
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CH'PT" 1: CH'PT" 1:
PC+ "(H'(C" %'I(T"('(C" PC+ "(H'(C" %'I(T"('(C"
This description and part numbers relate to a PCV Enhancer made from a Husky air
filter. If Kobalt air filter (Lowe's item # 221024) has been used, it is seemingly very
similar, so consult the original manufacturer or supplier.
One interesting and important feature of the filter structure is its materials. The upper
parts are mostly metal, while the bowl is polycarbonate (clear plastic). The Husky filter
is rated for maximum temperature of 125 Fahrenheit. Depending upon distance from
the engine and air flow through the engine compartment, ambient temperature may
deform the device after a while. It is therefore recommended to locate it as far as
possible from the engine (say 1-1.5 feet away) where there is enough air flow to cool it
off below 125 Fahrenheit.
As for the temperature of the gases coming out of the crankcase, these may be hot. The
only answer to this is that the filter is too cheap to worry about ($15-$20), if it goes, it
goes - replace it when it stops functioning. In my car there was never a problem with it
after almost 2 years of driving.
The filter element is made of Zinc and is estimated to last much longer than the plastics,
so you don't have to worry about replacing it. Pust kee3 it Gle0n /y I0shing Iith
0lGohol Crom time to time&
The PCV Enhancer will fill up at a rate that is hard to predict; it depends on your engine
size and condition, and a LOT depends on the weather - at winter more water will be
condensed in it. Locating it in a warmer area (such as right behind the radiator) during
winter driving will cause less water to be collected.
It is recommended to empty it before it is half full with junk and gunk, to allow enough
air to circulate through the transparent bowl.
The next page shows the replacement parts for the PCV Enhancer. As far as I've seen,
the hardware stores do not carry stock of replacement parts. For assistance with
replacement parts call Husky at 1-7>>-916-:1>>. Hours of operation: Monday-
Thursday 8am-5:30pm, Fri 8am-5pm, Eastern Time.
Apparently, both Husky and Kobalt have discontinued their mini air filters. Alternative
parts are detailed in the complete and updated parts list provided at the end of this
book.
I doubt if the barb adapters will ever wear out, however they can be obtained from
Home Depot, the plumbing department.
The glass balls may be replaced with any metal ball bearings. Preferably large, at least
(6 mm) in diameter. They may be copper plated etc, or even glass - all you need is
something Gold to condense the water vapor passing through the bowl.
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CH'PT" 14 CH'PT" 14
F-") H"'T" I(ST'))'TIO( F-") H"'T" I(ST'))'TIO(
"8-I"# I(ST'))'TIO( H'#,'" "8-I"# I(ST'))'TIO( H'#,'"
Qty Description Catalog # Source Barcode
6? Stainless Steel Gear
Clamp
62604 Home Depot 07857510304-4
2 Fuel Injection Hose H-204 Gates 02976935075-1
2 Aluminum foil - 12 x 12 -- Kitchen & Beyond 69137445041-8
10? Cable ties - 11 BLACK 34637 Harbor Freight 79236334637-5
To connect between the existing fuel lines and the H-204 hoses, you will need to add
barbed fittings that fit your car's fuel lines - I can't guess what inner diameter they may
be but probably in the 3/8 range. They will look something like this...

...or like this:

The hose specs below (H-204) are for the minim0l Su0lity hose. DO NOT USE CHEAP
HOSE! You can either use steel-/r0ided TeClon hydr0uliG hose from a hydraulic
supply store (MAKE SURE IT CAN HANDLE HOT FUEL), or the type shown below which is
from the ('P' 'uto Store (locate a store near you by visiting
http://www.napaautocare.com).
The first type is cheaper (about $2.40/ft) but requires special fittings (about $2 each
end) that any hydraulic supply store can prepare for you. The second type from NAPA is
more expensive ($5.95/ft) but can slip on directly on the Fuel Heater.
In my opinion the second type is much safer for high temperature, high pressure fuel.
To the naked eye it looks like simple rubber, but it is far from it.
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FI" H'$'#... #O (OT -S" "!-)' F-") HOS" FO% TH" '-TO P'TS
STO" because it will crack under the pressure (60+ psi) and high temperatures (180-
200 degrees Fahrenheit). The hose type shown here is manufactured by Gates (full
contact below) and its product number is 4219-6204. Your Napa auto parts store knows
it as H204 or H-204, as far as I've seen 020il0/le in stores only&
The Gates Rubber Co.
1551 Wewatta Street
Denver, CO 80202, USA
Phone: 303-744-1911
Website: http://www.gates.com
NOTE: The parts list chapter at the end of this book has all the sources online/offline and
estimated prices for USA.
I(ST'))'TIO( POC"#-" I(ST'))'TIO( POC"#-"
Im3ort0nt
Put soap on the barbed fittings to help slip them onto place. Fuel
will not go through the soap. Do not use dry connections. Each
hose connection must be secured by a steel gear clamp, even
though the manufacturer says they can fit without clamps (which
is true only for certain types of barb connectors).
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Ste3-/y-Ste3 InstruGtions
The photos below show an installation in my Toyota Corolla 1999. Every vehicle will be
different but these photos will help you get the idea.
WARNING: Don't use the Thermoid hose shown in the photos - use the hose
specified above.
Thermoid or Goodyear hoses may hold for a short while, but if it needs
replacement then (a) you'll be losing time and money on new installation, and
(b) if leaks develop you'll be losing fuel and possibly create a fire hazard. So
you'd better invest a few more dollars in a good hose (in the Corolla's example
it would be a $30 difference) and prevent trouble.
(Step 1). Before starting installation, we RELEASED THE FUEL PRESSURE so it wouldn't
squirt when cutting the fuel line!
(Step 2). The extension hoses (approximately 2 feet each) were connected to the Fuel
Heater and secured with 3/8 stainless steel clamps. '),'YS -S" SO'P O( TH"
B'B"# FITTI(!S to sli3 them into 3l0Ge&
(Step 3). We chose a location on the upper radiator hose, at its hottest point.
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(Step 4). The original fuel line was cut near the firewall, where the fuel line arrives from
the gas tank:
(Step 5). New barbed BRASS fittings were installed on each of the cuts. Again, '),'YS
-S" SO'P O( TH" B'B"# FITTI(!S to sli3 them into 3l0Ge&
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(Step 6). We secured every connection using 3/8 stainless steel clamps.
(Step 7). The new fuel lines (the extensions) were now routed to the Fuel Heater and
secured with several SMALL cable ties as shown:

(Step 8). The Fuel Heater was secured to the radiator hose using cable ties. The /l0Gk
ties 0re more dur0/le in hot 0re0s&
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(Step 9). Before starting the engine I(SP"CT FO POSSIB)" )"'KS&
eGommended Cor older G0rs: neI Cuel Cilter.
(oI st0rt the engine 0nd 2eriCy zero le0ks...
(Step 10). Four layers of aluminum foil were wrapped around the Fuel Heater...

(Step 11). ...and then secured with several cable ties (the long cable ties are excellent
for this purpose):
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(Step 12). Now a second layer of aluminum foil was wrapped around the whole thing...
(Step 13). ...and secured with several more long cable ties:
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(Step 14). We secured all the lines to existing hardware so they don't rattle and become
loose.
(Step 14). St0rt the engine 0g0in 0nd 2eriCy zero le0ks...
(Step 15). Optionally you can now wrap the entire Fuel Heater area with duGt Gloth for
extra protection. We skipped this part. In any case DO NOT USE DUCT TAPE because its
glue might melt or burn.
(Step 16). Drive around for a short while and inspect the installation once more. After
two weeks of driving around, inspect ALL PARTS of the installation for possible leaks or
loose connections. Make sure that no sharp bends have developed on the fuel lines that
may block free passage.
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CH'PT" 17 CH'PT" 17
I(ST'))I(! ")"CTO(IC "(H'(C"S I(ST'))I(! ")"CTO(IC "(H'(C"S
By "Electronic Enhancers" we mean any known product or method to enhance (improve the
effectiveness and accuracy of) any engine's sensor, that will eventually bring about better
fuel economy. Several chapters in Book 2 provide a comprehensive guide to enhancing all
common types of sensors and vehicle computers. Installation procedures proviced below for
the popular devices.
%'P S"(SO "(H'(C" %'P S"(SO "(H'(C"
The diagram below shows a typical installation of a MAP/MAF Sensor Enhancer. It
doesn't need a box and can be installed on the dashbord.
(1) Identify the line coming out of your Map Sensor (the sensor is usually on the
firewall or on the intake manifold), cut the signal wire and then
(2) The circuit would simply be connected BETWEEN THE SENSOR AND THE ECU
(computer) as shown below.
(3) The device also connects to ground, any ground available or the sensor's ground.
If you follow the color code we've been using, then ground wire is B)'CK, the
line from the sensor is BO,( and the line going out to the ECU is "#.
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Caution! If you have a hard time locating the wires DO NOT DO ANYTHING!
Sto3 right there 0nd le02e this Uo/ to 0 meGh0niG& Guesswork won't
serve you right this time. One wrong connection may burn the computer and
you'll be wasting hundreds of dollars on repairs. This is a 2ery simple
connection if you know what you're doing - but MUST be done with
confidence.
Inst0ll0tion Ti3 R1
To enable a more comfortable use of this Enhancer, I extended its 3 wires all the way to
the driver's seat and positioned the enhancer next to the hand brake, as shown in the
photo below. The white plug makes it easy to disconnect the unit for repair or upgrades.
When the Enhancer is disconnected you can short-circuit the brown and red wires, thus
restoring the original direct connection between the MAP sensor and the ECU.
Inst0ll0tion Ti3 R5:
HO, TO #"') ,ITH ,I" CO)O CO#I(!
Several optional designs of the ,0ter1!0s Dual-Edge MAP Sensor Enhancer (DEMSE)
have been shown in an earlier chapter. I have color coded their wiring in a totally
arbitrary way, yet this color coding has become a standard between my readers who
independently manufacture these devices.
Several experimenters have become very confused over the color coding, and asked
what 3 wires they need to connect to, in the vehicle. Well, follow my description very
closely now and see how simple it really is:
1. You do NOT cut 3 wires, not even two!
2. You cut only one wire - the signal from the sensor to the ECU. Only one wire!
You touch none of the other vehicle's wiring.
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3. Now that you have cut that one wire, you have two ends, right? One FO% the
sensor, and the other TO the ECU. That wire could be green (in the vehicle), or
white, or blue or any other color. I'm not going to refer to its color because I
don't know and it's not important. It's only important to verify that it is indeed
the SIGNAL WIRE (carrying a varying voltage between zero and 5 volts, more like
2-4 volts). Let's call this wire - the car's wire - the "MAP SIGNAL WIRE.
4. Assuming you're using my color coding for DEMSE, or have
purchased DEMSE from one of the vendors who built it
according to this book, then you have a ed* BroIn 0nd
Bl0Gk Iires coming out of it.
5. Remember, the car's MAP SIGNAL WIRE has two ends.
Connect one end, the sensor's side, to the BROWN wire
coming out of the DEMSE box. That's the box in3ut&
6. Now take the second end of the MAP SIGNAL WIRE, the one that goes to the
ECU, and connect it to the RED wire coming out of the DEMSE box. That's the box
out3ut to the ECU.
7. The BLACK wire coming out of the DEMSE box is simply the grounding - connect
it to vehicle's chassis, anywhere near (make sure that point has good grounding
to the battery).
That's it - you're done!
What happened here? You've cut ONE wire, and ended up connecting THREE wires to the
DEMSE. Note that the device is passive, meaning it does not need power at all. None of
these wires connects to 12 volts supply, or 5 volts supply, or anything like that.
%'F S"(SO "(H'(C" %'F S"(SO "(H'(C"
This is a tricky job and should be done only if no MAP sensor is a available in your
vehicle. Follow the detailed instructions provided in ,0ter1!0s Book 2.
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OAY!"( S"(SO "(H'(C" OAY!"( S"(SO "(H'(C"
To install an Oxygen Sensor Enhancer (usually called
EFIE), follow the installation instructions that come
with it. ,0ter1!0s Book 2 will give you the best
EFIE installation procedures known at this time.
If you made it yourself from the plans given in
document "D17", follow the tuning and installation
instructions in that document.
"D17" or actually D17.PDF, is number 17 in Patrick
Kelly's free energy collection of patents and plans.
It's title is "Dealing With The Vehicle Computer.
The document is available on the Internet - search
Google for "Dealing With The Vehicle Computer"
inGluding the quote marks. Last I looked, I found it at the following link:
http://www.cyberspaceorbit.com/D17.pdf
I received reports from ,0ter1!0s experimenters that D17 does not work as described
in that document. To make it work, make one major change: replace the input resistor
(sensor side) from 1M to 10K Ohm. That makes it work!
I've built the unit in the photo, but decided not to mass produce it. The best sources at
this time, for enhancing the O2 Sensor signal, are to BUY a ready made EFIE device
from one of the vendors on our catalog www.Water4Gas.com, and if necessary consult
with them what enhancer is best for your vehicle.
%uGh more on this su/UeGt 0nd its use - in the neHt ,0ter1!0s
/ook 0nd in the Trou/leshooter&
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CH'PT" 1< CH'PT" 1<
I(ST'))I(! '(# -SI(! TH" CH'!"# I(ST'))I(! '(# -SI(! TH" CH'!"#
,'T" SYST"% ,'T" SYST"%
I(T""STI(! #"+")OP%"(T I(T""STI(! #"+")OP%"(T
When I first published this chapter, gasoline prices have gone totally mad, sometimes as
high as $6 in the USA and almost double in the UK. At the same time in Florida, Bill Lang
stumbled upon an interesting technology that he reported to
improve fuel economy in an unmodified four-cylinder 1994
Saturn (see engine photo above).
By "stumbled I don't mean that it just appeared out of thin
air - he went through 0 lot of trial and error, but eventually
the system he came up with was surprisingly simple.
Extremely simple when you compare it to anything else that
was out there AND WORKED. Lang named the device
,'T"!'S !""( %'CHI("& For simplicity, I nicknamed it
the "charged water system.
This system has several great advantages:
1. It is simple to make and install,
2. For an investment of under $2 in hardware, and a few accessories usually found
around the home, it is EXTREMELY AFFORDABLE for any poor country in the
world to duplicate,
3. What's more, according to feedbacks from American experimenters, it seems to
be most beneficial for older cars 1995 and older - again making it useful for
developing countries.
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This system has one great disadvantage:
1. It doesn@t 3roduGe results Dmile0ge g0insE Cor 0ll engine ty3es* and I don't
know why.
)isten to Bill )0ng@s 0dio Inter2ieI
Listen to Bill Lang's interview on BlogTalkRadio.com telling the amazing story of how
he got to discover this breakthrough:
http://www.blogtalkradio.com/kyWaterFuelmuseum/2007/05/19/bill-lang
System O2er2ieI
The procedure I'm going to give you in a moment is very cheap and simple but h0s to
/e ColloIed eH0Gtly* because if you change major factors you may throw the formula
off balance. AFTER you have some results, any results at all, you may then change -
ONE FACTOR AT A TIME - and compare the results to previous ones.
The system under the hood consists of a Vaporizer, or the "World War 2 System that
Bill Lang mentioned on the radio show. It consists of a sealed 1 quart glass jar (for low
cost and visibility). Engine vacuum is then used to bubble a little air through pre-treated
water - the "charged water.
The uniqueness of this system is that some TAP WATER is being PRE-TREATED at home
and then used in the vehicle. No Brown's Gas. In this chapter you will be able to learn
about the preparation of such charged water, and how it all works.
B0Gkground
This system is considered to be a simplified and improved
version of the famous "WW2 system that cooled down
airplane engines, saved fuel and saved on maintenance. I've
read that the early B-52 airplanes needed water injection just
to get off the ground when loaded!
The power of water enhancement does not come to us from
sophisticated science labs and long calculations by
supercomputers, but from the "magical results of trial-and-
error.
The power of simplicity is at your service here: the developers
have done a lot of trial-and-error so YOU don't have to.
Although I wanted to understand the science behind the
workability of charged water, I haven't found a satisfactory explanation. I only know
that several reports arrived to me insisting that the "charged water system does
produce mileage gain, and that they seemed to concentrate around early-90's models
and simpler control systems such as throttle-/ody Cuel-inUeGtion&
I did not have any such vehicle of my own to experiment with, so I'm giving you the
information for your further experimentation.
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SYST"% O+"+I", SYST"% O+"+I",
Many people have confused the technology of THIS chapter with previous technologies,
devices, methods and publications. Let's go over the basics to set things straight.
This new technology of CHARGING WATER AT HOME AND TAKING IT TO THE CAR is not
only experimental, it is uniSue& It stands by itself! Don't bring any previous ideas when
you study this chapter. Please! This chapter says what it means and there are no
assumptions left to imagination.
THIS IS A STAND ALONE CHAPTER. DO NOT CONFUSE IT WITH ANYTHING ELSE. THE
CHARGED WATER IS A SYSTEM BY ITSELF. THE FACT THAT WE USE THE ELECTROLYZER
DOES NOT MEAN THAT IT HAS ANY CONNECTION TO INSTALLING AN HHO SYSTEM IN A
VEHICLE. LET ME REPEAT THIS: IT IS A SYSTEM BY ITSELF. THIS IS (OT
HY#O!"(-O(-#"%'(#. 'nd it is not designed to Iork Iith hydrogen&
I'm not trying to nag you for nothing. It has already happened that people got confused
and asked me odd questions. I know this is all new, yet I'm asking you to do your best
to differentiate, and I'll do my best to make this as clear to you as possible.
So here are the basics of the charged water system:
There are tIo Iorlds* the home - and the car. Each world with its own hardware and
techniques. Only WATER travels from the home - after certain preparation - to the car.
In the car there is a Vaporizer that we learned to build in an
earlier chapter. It's shown in the photo - an extremely simple
device that creates water vapor by bubbling engine vacuum
through water. There is nothing hidden in the photo. It looks
very simple and it is indeed 2ery simple.
At home there is an air-tight Electrolyzer (a simple machine to
separate water into Hydrogen and Oxygen, that we also
learned to build in an earlier chapter), and an open jar or bowl
with tap water. You will learn below how to make it all come to
life. I'm not giving you the procedure yet, just general
overview for your orientation.
The process - STILL AT HOME - you "charge some t03 I0ter*
in an open jar, by flowing HHO through it. Got that? You
charge, or in other words you enrich the water, with HHO. The gas goes through the
water, goes up and away into the room, and some kind of unknown "charge or chemical
property stays in the water.
There must be someone on this planet that would be able to look at this and say: "Aha!
Of course! You're doing blah-blah-blah! Unfortunately for this chapter, that person is
not myself. Not the developers either. We call it "charging water and that's it. After all,
who cares? If it saves gasoline it's good whether we understand the chemistry or not.
So in the next step, after you have this charged water, you take the WATER, not
anything else, just the water, and you bring it TO THE CAR. Again, I want to stress that
THIS chapter MEANS WHAT IT SAYS. When it says "you take the water, it does not
mean "the water and the bowl. It means THE WATER. Of course you take it in some
vessel. But if there was a device or something needed, I'd say so. Only I0ter tr02els
Crom the home to the G0r& And nothing comes back.
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In the car you pour this charged water into a Vaporizer that has been installed
beforehand. There is nothing else in the car but a ,0ter1!0s Vaporizer as you've seen
in the photo above. Again, this is not the instructions yet. You've already learned in
earlier chapters how to make and install the Vaporizer.
Now you drive around with that Vaporizer filled with CHARGED WATER. For some reason
or other, the qualities in the charged water boost engine performance.
The water stays charged for one week. You just observe water level in the car and when
it goes down to about , you make a fresh amount of charged water and fill it up.
That's the simplicity of it. Now let's look at the details.
S-PP)I"S YO- ,I)) (""# S-PP)I"S YO- ,I)) (""#
Some ,0ter1!0s kits that I've seen contain the major components of this system,
especially those that are harder to find. You may need to get the pump and
adapter/charger locally, to fit your local voltage rating. If you're buying a charged water
system, check with the seller exactly what you're getting.
The complete list of components necessary for a ty3iG0l CHARGED WATER SYSTEM is as
follows:
1 Electrolyzer (see relevant chapter for building it yourself).
NOTE: this could be a lesser (in durability) or smaller Electrolyzer, because it's going
to work only hour at a time AT HOME/GARAGE so it doesn't have to fit automotive
installation. This will become clearer with the usage procedure described below.
1 Vaporizer (see relevant chapter for building it yourself).
2 pieces of vinyl tubing, 15 long each.
PURE baking soda.
1 Aquarium pump - the smallest and cheapest you can put your hands on will do just
fine. An old and dirty one will do just fine too. Or get one from Wal-Mart ($6) or your
local pet supply store.
1 Power adapter that can supply a DC (direct current) voltage of 4.5 volts or 6 volts.
An old cellphone charger may work. You can get one of those in a second hand store
or even some dollar stores. Usually there's one or two lying around in the home.
1 open jar or bowl of about 1 quart (roughly 1 liter). Could be bigger. Could even be
a large bottle if you can't find a jar. No lid necessary!
P"P'I(! TH" C' P"P'I(! TH" C'
As I said, in the car you must first of all install a ,0ter1!0s Vaporizer. If you don't
have a Vaporizer, read the chapter on Building a Vaporizer. If you already have - only IF
you already have an Electrolyzer already in the car - you can turn it into a Vaporizer by
taking out the fuse. (No 12 volts = it's working in what we call "H2O mode, or in other
words it's working as a Vaporizer. No electricity, no HHO!)
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Installing into the car is very simple. As you can see in other parts of this book, there
are separate chapters for installation, maintenance, etc. But the charged water system
is so unique, that I'd rather keep it all in one self-contained chapter. Here's what you do
in the car (refer to the diagram below):
Connect the vaporizer to any of the lines from the intake manifold, such as the PCV
valve. If you want to use your ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer for this purpose, it must be
operated in "H2O mode" (i.e., no 12 Volts). The connection in the car is very simple as
shown in the diagram below, and shouldn't take longer than 5-10 minutes. The
vaporizer can be located almost anywhere that's not burning hot. Support it with bungee
cords, foam or cable ties.
CH'!I(! TH" ,'T" CH'!I(! TH" ,'T"
,'(I(!: THE WATER CHARGING PROCESS
MUST BE DONE IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA -
because you're going to be generating
combustible gas. KEEP AWAY FROM OPEN
FLAMES, SPARKS, CHILDREN AND PETS.
The diagram below shows an overview of the system 0t home&
For clarity of the process, we'll call these jars as they are marked here - Jar #1 is the
Electrolyzer, and Jar #2 is the open top jar or bowl.
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In a ,")) +"(TI)'T"# '"', prepare an open-top jar or a large bottle where you
want the "charged water to be - that's Jar #2. LEAVE THIS JAR OPEN - NO LID OR
COVER.
Fill up jar #2 with TAP WATER or home-filtered water. Do not use distilled water or
reverse osmosis (RO) water.
Now set up your Electrolyzer as jar #1. CAUTION - KEEP AWAY FROM OPEN FLAMES,
SPARKS AND CHILDREN because you're going to be generating some combustible gas.
Fill jar #1 half way with DISTILLED water (1 pint or 450 cc).
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Remove the bubbler cap (only the loose cap, not the whole thing, as shown in the photo
below. Keep it in a safe place). Connect a thin vinyl tubing ( diameter, about 15
long) to the air inlet of jar #1, the one that leads to the bottom of the Electrolyzer:
Connect a small aquarium pump to the tubing you've just added, using vinyl tubing.
Don't plug it in the wall outlet yet.
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Connect a vinyl tubing to one of the HHO outputs of Jar #1, long enough to reach jar
#2. Its end must be able to submerge in the water of Jar #2.
The Electrolyzer must be air tight. Seal any output of the Electrolyzer (Jar #1) that may
allow the HHO gas to leak into the open air. In our Electrolyzer it would be the safety
valve (check valve, shown in blue in the photo below), and the second HHO output; seal
each one with a little rubber cap or a piece of insulation tape. You can kill two birds with
one stone by plugging them into each other! Just add a small piece of vinyl tubing to
adapt the diameters and get an air tight connection:
Connect the Electrolyzer to the cellphone charger or wall adapter. Don't plug it in the
wall outlet yet. Polarity (plus/minus direction) is not important for this application.
Add 1/8 teaspoon of PURE Baking Soda into the Electrolyzer. #on@t use 0nything /ut
3ure B0king Sod0. The idea of the quantity is to create a current just enough to draw
the maximal current that the cellphone charger is capable of and no more, so we don't
burn it. If you have a digital voltmeter you can play with that. Otherwise use 1/8
teaspoon for starters.
The amount of baking soda needed depends on the local quality of water. Some local
waters are so rich in mineral content that they may not require any baking soda at all.
Check the temperature of the cellphone charger after about hour, to be sure it is not
overheating. If it seems to be overheating, cut back on the baking soda (or dilute by
adding water).
If you're not sure how much is 1/8 teaspoon exactly, do the following: put 1 flat
teaspoon of Baking Soda in 2 glasses of water, mix it well together and pour 1 quarter of
1 glass into the Electrolyzer when it's empty, then fill up more tap water till it's h0lC full.
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There is nothing holy about these numbers, I am only trying to pre-estimate what
should work for you. But experimenting for yourself is the best way to go, using my
numbers as your starting point.
Check your entire setup visually, then plug the cellphone charger into a wall outlet and
observe the setup again. The Electrolyzer should be producing HHO (you'll see tiny
bubbles forming around the electrode wires).
Now start the aquarium pump and observe the bubbles coming out of the tubing, at the
bottom of Jar #1. Assuming that your setup is right and the Electrolyzer is indeed air
tight, this will push the HHO out of the Electrolyzer and into Jar #2. You will see
bubbling coming out at the tubing in the open jar. Those bubbles are air Iith HHO. The
water in Jar #1 may now have a smokey or cloudy look to it - this is the HHO.
Make sure the cellphone charger does not overheat. If it feels REALLY hot after a few
minutes, unplug it and reduce the amount of Baking Soda in Jar #1. You don't have to
throw away the water, just dilute it with distilled water and then pour some out to
reduce it back again to about half jarful.
That's all for the preparation. Now you're charging the water in Jar #2. Let it do its thing
for 45-60 minutes.
Now unplug the electricity from the charger and pump.
Immedi0tely add 4 capfulls of 6V Hydrogen PeroHide into the
second jar. The kind you buy cheaply at RiteAid or the 99-Cent
store.
Again, the amount is FO- C'PS me0sured Iith the Hydrogen
PeroHide /ottle@s G03&
The water is ready to be taken to the car.
B'CK TO TH" C'. B'CK TO TH" C'.
The resulting liquid would look like plain water without any added color or bubbles. Yet it
will be charged with special qualities that are, at the time of writing, beyond my limited
understanding of chemistry. Pour this liquid into the Vaporizer in the car, leaving 5Q oC
0ir on to3 (above the water).
Start the engine. Close the bubbler cap all the way down (clockwise), then o3en one
GliGk for VERY low bubbling (you may need to open a bit more if the vacuum is weak).
You should be able to count the bubbles coming out. Adding extra bubbles, by opening
the valve more, may produce more power but not mileage!
Test drive, day after day. Bill Lang and other drivers report that the treated water has
continued to be effective for several days without any loss in performance.
CO(C)-SIO( CO(C)-SIO(
AS I SAID IN THE BEGINNING, THERE IS NO GUARANTEE OR EXACT KNOWLEDGE ON
WHICH VEHICLE THIS TECH WOULD WORK. IF YOU DECIDE TO GIVE IT A TRY, DO IT
AT YOUR OWN RISK. Your cost is minimal so you're mostly risking some time. Please
share your knowledge.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 137
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 5> CH'PT" 5>
I(ST'))I(! '(# -SI(! #"+IC"S (OT I(ST'))I(! '(# -SI(! #"+IC"S (OT
%"(TIO("# H"" %"(TIO("# H""
There are many devices and methods to
improve fuel economy, described in great
detail in ,0ter1!0s Book 2. But not all
that has ever been invented made it into
that book.
How come?
I have done an extensive research since I
founded ,0ter1!0s in 2006, and a large
portion of my research focused on trying
to establish which are the devices and
methods that will not only improve fuel
economy but will also:
Work WITH EACH OTHER without
serious clashes,
Be affordable and simple enough to be
made at home using simple tools,
Do not contain such secrets and
restrictions that might impede their
application by the backyard
experimenter.
Why am I telling you all this? Because in
,0ter1!0s Book 2 you will encounter devices that are not included in THIS book,
,0ter1!0s Book 1.
These other devices did not pass these tests and therefore did not make it into the
"typical system described in Book 1. However, when found useful, they were made
optional and DID make it into Book 2.
In ,0ter1!0s Book 2, each device or method will usually be given in its own chapter or
section. In each such chapter or section, the procedures for installation and tuning (if
necessary) of optional devices, will either be provided, or referred to.
Do you want to experiment with systems and devices other than ,0ter1!0s? Do you
want to know what can or cannot work in conjunction with ,0ter1!0s? If so, you're
welcome to experiment, however I warmly recommend that you FIRST read these books
fully before commencing with your experimentation. The reason being that reading Book
1 and Book2 in full will provide you with the complete picture, so you will understand
what goes with what, and what is worth investing your time and money in.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 138
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Some of the optional devices (or materials) that will be discussed in ,0ter1!0s Book 2
are listed below:
Electronic devices to optimize fuel economy,
Computer replacement and reprogramming,
Various filters including by-pass filters,
Kiker Performance products,
Volo Performance products,
Aerodynamic modifications,
The Gadgetman Groove
Charcoal canister,
Spark plugs,
Special oils,
Scanners,
Tires,
and more.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 139
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CH'PT" 51 CH'PT" 51
TOO)S '(# P"+"(TI+" %'I(T"('(C" TOO)S '(# P"+"(TI+" %'I(T"('(C"
S"+"" ,'(I(!
Before attempting $N! maintenance on this system, turn
the engine OFF and make sure that all device(s) are
DISCONNECTED from 12 Volt supply, by turning the ignition
key fully off AND pulling the in-line fuse out. Do this even
when "only filling out water - otherwise the electrodes
might short circuit to the cars body or another system,
possibly causing damage or fire hazard.
"CO%%"(#"# TOO)S "CO%%"(#"# TOO)S
First of all, the Chapter "Useful Resources has a list of important tools that may be
useful for installation troubleshooting and after-installation maintenance.
Provided below is a list of tools you may want to have, that I have found very useful
when I installed and built many ,0ter1!0s systems myself. Especially if you intend
more than one installation of ,0ter1!0s devices, these tools are good to have because
they will save you a lot of time - and the results will look neat and professional.
If the price of professional tools is an issue, as it was in my case, the thing to do is to
get the best offers out of Harbor Freight Tools. They not only have excellent prices in
general, but you can also sign up (free of any charge or obligation) to become a
"Preferred Customer and get further discounts and great offer every week, by email or
printed mail.
Their national phone number is 843-676-2603. Visit www.HarborFreight.com or phone
them to locate your local store. You can also buy off the website, pay low S&H and save
time. Look at these great offers (mainly from Harbor Freight) that will definitely make
your life easier for ,0ter1!0s installations, maintenance and further development
(offered for the professional installer, NOT NECESSARY for a single installation):
+'C--% T"ST"
This tool is very useful for locating the best
vacuum point for any ,0ter1!0s system. It
should read around 50 on the outer dial (the
green area) for best results.
Diagnose fuel pump output and engine vacuum.
Easy to read 4" diameter gauge.
Tests output pressure to 10 PSI
Read vacuum to 28" HG
Check mechanical or electric pumps
Brass fittings
Water4Gas Book 1-B 140
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Adapters to work with most vehicles
Comes with 24" long 1/4" diameter vacuum hose, blow mold case
ITEM 93547-2VGA, only O15&<< at the time of writing
Like building stuff yourself? Construct an accurate vacuum gauge at home Cor 0/out
O6& Free plans: http://www.bagpipejourney.com/articles/manometer.shtml
Materials you will need:
- A board (particle wood, cardboard, etc.) roughly measuring 3-8 X 6"-12"
- 20' clear vinyl tubing from Home Depot (bar code 48643025493, $2.69)
- Some household stuff, see article.
1>Q 'TCH"TI(! T"%I(') CI%P"
Ratcheting mechanism for uniform crimps
every time
Designed for 10 to 22 gauge wire
High carbon steel jaws and handles with black
oxide finish and ABS grip sleeves
3/4" jaw opening
Color-coded head for different wire sizes
Adjustable crimping compression mechanism
Up/down ratchet lock
Ideal for insulated and bare terminals
Overall dimensions: 8-1/2" L x 1" W x 2-1/2" H
ITEM 97420-0VGA, only O11&<< at the time of writing.
4 F-(CTIO( %-)TI-T"ST"
Get accurate readings for DC voltage, DC current, AC
voltage, resistance, transistor test, diode test, and battery
test. Easy-to-read 3-1/2 digit LCD readout, positive set
selector switch, and 32" leads.
Automatic zero adjust
Over-range indicator
2.5x second sample time
Low battery indicator
Fuse and diode protected circuit
DC-A: 0-200 A-2000 A-20mA-200mA ; Resistance:
0-200-2000-20K-200K-2000K ohm; DC-V: 0-200mV-
2000mV-20V-200V-1000V ; AC-V: 0-200-750V
ITEM 90899-1VGA, only O4&<< at the time of writing.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 141
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(O(-CO(T'CT POCK"T TH"%O%"T"
Use this tool to locate the coolest available place in the engine
area.
Quickly locate hot spots in duct work, electrical panels and
automotive systems
Small enough to fit in your pocket
Readings in Fahrenheit (-27 to 230 degrees) or Celsius (-33 to 110
degrees)
Instant readings, response times under one second
Includes real-time clock and stopwatch.
40 hour battery life, uses one CR2032 lithium battery; Emissivity is @ 0.95 fixed.
ITEM 93983-2VGA, only O1<&<< at the time of writing. I've seen it sold on eBay for
about $20.
:L (""#)" (OS" )OCKI(! P)I"S
Maximum jaw opening: 2-7/16''
Drop-forged chrome vanadium tempered steel
with a bright nickel-plated finish
Easy-to-release trigger
Micro-adjustment screw
ITEM 39715-2VGA, only O6&6< at the time of writing.
'-TO%OTI+" F-S" S"T
The most economical way is to make your own fuse kit
Choose the types and ratings that fits your type of system(s) and installations/service
Get the best prices at Del City www.delcity.com
Auto parts stores such as AutoZone and PepBoys also carry fuse and fuse sets, as well as
automotive fuse holders that are reasonably priced.
T"%I(') KIT S"T
Like fuses, you can buy a set such as the one
shown (from Harbor Freight Tools, $4.99)
Or make your own collection - I usually buy
from Amazon.com - see my best sources in the
parts list at the end of this book.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 142
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
%'K" YO-S")F ' POF"SSIO(') S"T %'K" YO-S")F ' POF"SSIO(') S"T
I believe in always having the proper tools for the job. I have these tools and you can
have them too. And frankly, for a total sum of about $120, why not be the most
professional and most prepared ,0ter1!0s installer you can be?
If you need a spacious tool chest for all these
tools, and for a unit or two, for demonstrations
and on-the-spot sale, add the tool box shown
here. For about $8, you can have everything you
need in one large place - 24 x 8 x 6 inches!
Recommended: fill out an application to become a
"Preferred Customer at Harbor Freight AND GIVE
THEM YOUR EMAIL - youll be receiving weekly
offers with irresistible prices.
Again, their contact info is: phone 843-676-2603, and www.HarborFreight.com
For the West LA and SF Valley areas, the store we use is located at 22912 Victory Blvd.,
Woodland Hills, CA.
11&1+ 6;7Q #I));#I+" KIT
You don't need this tool for installations. In fact you can
do without it altogether. However I want to recommend
it warmly that you get yourself one of these - LOOK
AND FIND IT AT THE LOW PRICE BELOW - because it
will make your work so much easier and faster when
building the Electrolyzer and the MAP Sensor Enhancer.
550 RPM
Reversible
20 Torque clutch settings
3/8'' keyless chuck
Convenient bit holder
Double injection housing with non-slip grip
Overall dimensions: 9-1/4"L X 3-3/16"W X 9-3/8"H
120V/60 HZ Charger
3-5 hours charging time
UL listed charger
ITEM 95094-0VGA. I got one for under O19 by using one of Harbor Freight's coupons.
I added a few dollars and purchased a spare battery - very important to have when one
battery runs out of juice.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 143
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
!)-"S !)-"S
HOT !)-"
A glue gun is very useful for small repairs. A 60 watts "MEDIUM GLUE GUN can be
obtained from Harbor Freight Tools. The one shown is item # 40833-4VGA, measures
7.5" x 6.25" and costs O6&<< at the time of writing.
Sometimes the 99-Cent-Only Stores carry small glue guns with glue for... 99.
Personally I prefer the small gun. It takes only 10 watt, does the job right and doesn't
put too much glue, and emits less fumes.
Glue sticks may be obtained from almost any hardware store, sometimes the 99-Cent-
Only Stores or craft/hobby shops such as %iGh0el@s.
Hint: when you place the gun unused, pull the glue stick a bit backwards. This prevents
hot glue from spilling through the tip. "HerGise G0ution Ihen Iorking Iith hot glue
- don't touch the hot tip AND DON'T TOUCH THE GLUE UNTIL IT HAS COOLED OFF! (it
will stick to your fingers and might cause light burns).
I "SE OO%- #"E FOR )EST RES"#TS.
Glue for submerged components: The most economical %0rine !oo3 is the 1>oz
C0rtridge (see photo), sells for $7.95 at www.westerncanoekayak.com or try at marine
supply shops. For small repairs you can use 1oz Goop, $3.29 from
www.usahardware.com
I usually buy the 3.7 oz Plum/er !oo3 or
Household !oo3 at ACE Hardware, O1&<< = or
O6&<7 at Home Depot. As mentioned above they
are believed to be the very same formula; if you
ask me buy the cheapest Goop you can find.
'utomoti2e !oo3 is also believed to be the
same.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 144
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
OTH" STO(! !)-"S
An experimenter from Australia suggests: "#yn0!ri3 is the registered trademark of
AFC International Pty Ltd (http://www.afcinternational.com.au/site/adhesives.htm). It
can be used for just about anything and is cured in 1 hour and will withstand
temperatures up to 260 degrees Celsius (500 Fahrenheit), can be used under water and
is resistant to fuels, oils, etc.
DynaGrip can be found in Australia and possibly in NZ. It is American made but I haven't
found the original manufacturer yet. Anyway this specific #yn0gri3 that he
recommends is "8uiksteel e3oHy 30steL, it is a two part paste, to mix equal parts
together. The part number in Australia is 14>>5. He comments: "It is brilliant, but have
everything prepared as you have 10 min work time max.
In the USA the standard high temperature epoxy is P-B ,eld "3oHy (do not use J-B
"Quik Weld since it has a lower temperature rating). The part number is 75:9-S and it
can be found in almost any American hardware store. It is extremely strong and will
survive high temperature up to 500 Fahrenheit.
'CC"SSOI"S: ,'T" '(# C'T')YST 'CC"SSOI"S: ,'T" '(# C'T')YST
C'T')YST: Use Pure Baking Soda. Chemically it's
not the best substance for the job. But the "popular
alternatives - Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda) or
Potassium Hydroxide - are terribly hazardous, while
Baking Soda is safe enough to eat... The photo
shows a huge 12 lb bag that I got for under $6 at
Costco (call 1-800-774-2678 or check
www.costco.com for local store locations).
Alternatives given in a later chapter in this book.
,'T": To be prepared for service, I also keep a
large bottle of distilled water in my trunk. In a big
town theres always some grocery around, but out in
the country its always better to be prepared with
water. In the US you may find it for $0.99 a gallon,
in some areas you'll pay more.
'TT"(TIO(: I used to prepare a bottle pre-mixed with
Baking Soda, but now I keep them separate for maximum
flexibility. For refills, use distilled water Iithout B0king
Sod0& That's because the water is being consumed by the
electrolysis process, while the catalyst stays in the device.
Adding a mixture of water+soda will create an imbalance
and may result in device overheating and/or fuse blowout.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 145
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
P"IO#IC %'I(T"('(C" P"IO#IC %'I(T"('(C"
")"CTO)Y$"
Check the jar once a week or so, to get a feel for how quickly the water is used up.
Depending on your driving and engine, the water may last for two months or just one
week. Visually inspect the system for leaks, cracks, loose wires or anything unusual.
,0ter1!0s Electrolyzers need little maintenance, basically just water /Electrolyte refill
and cleaning.
Since this product is made exclusively from components, which are
locally available throughout North America (and equivalent hardware
elsewhere), you can maintain this system yourself using local parts.
The mason jar is very durable, possibly the strongest part in the entire
system. However, if broken, visit your grocery or local OSH store and
get a new jar. Ask for the Wide Mouth Canning Jars or "Wide Mouth
Mason Jars. In California I get them for 87 cents at OSH.
If any of the other parts become loose it is safe to glue it back with Goop
Marine or Goop Plumber ($4.99 at http://ACEhotline.com, at Ace
Hardware stores or other hardware/ marine stores).
Before gluing, make sure the device is dry and that the fuse is pulled out
(for maximum safety remove the device for a day and block the open vacuum hose end.
)et the glue h0rden thoroughly 3er the m0nuC0Gturer@s instruGtions D17-45
hoursE /eCore using the de2iGe 0g0in& #o not 0dd I0ter /eCore the glue is Cully
Gured D51 hoursE&
According to some reports I've read, there is NO difference between Household Goop,
Automotive Goop and Plumbing Goop, they are all the s0me formula with different tube
colors. I'm not a chemist but from my experience Plumbers Goop works great.
+'POI$"
The ,0ter1!0s Vaporizer needs even less maintenance since the water keeps cleaner
and will be consumed in a slower rate. And theres no fuse to blow or wiring problems.
If you suspect that water is being consumed too quickly, turn on the engine and adjust
the bubbling to LOW. Also touch the Vaporizer after a long ride - if it's very hot, that
means that the engine is warming up the water and cause fast evaporation. Consider
moving the device to a cooler location.
PC+ "(H'(C"
The PCV Enhancer is pretty simple to maintain. It needs cleaning, and possibly a change
of parts. Earlier chapter "PCV Enhancer Maintenance gives you all the necessary details
and part numbers.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 146
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 55 CH'PT" 55
TO-B)"SHOOTI(! '(# CO"CTI+" TO-B)"SHOOTI(! '(# CO"CTI+"
%'I(T"('(C" %'I(T"('(C"
S"+"" ,'(I(!
Before attempting $N! maintenance on this system, turn
the engine OFF and make sure that all device(s) are
DISCONNECTED from 12 Volt supply, by turning the ignition
key fully off AND pulling the in-line fuse out. Do this even
when "only filling out water - otherwise the electrodes
might short circuit to the cars body or another system,
possibly causing damage or fire hazard.
+"Y I%POT'(T - I(T"'CTI+" TO-B)"SHOOT" +"Y I%POT'(T - I(T"'CTI+" TO-B)"SHOOT"
To use the free Interactive Troubleshooter visit http://water4gas.com/support/
,'T" )"+") TOO )O, ,'T" )"+") TOO )O,
Add water. Sounds simple, but here are the things you should know about this:
1. First of all for safetys sake, never refill with the electricity on. Turn the ignition
switch fully off and pull the fuse out.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 147
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
2. Second, never fill out new water into an empty HOT JAR. Let it cool first.
3. When ADDING, only add distilled water, but no baking soda. That's when you're
only ADDING water, no need for baking soda - it's already in the jar. The water
has been evaporated and turned into HHO, but the baking soda stayed.
4. But when washing out the jar and refilling anew, of course, add soda as well as
water, in the same ratio that works best for you.
5. When you're done, place the fuse back. Visually inspect the hoses and
connections. Then, test the system and make sure it's working properly.
P' O+"H"'TS P' O+"H"'TS
Lower the concentration of the Electrolyte. At teaspoon, the unit will normally stay
cold or lukewarm, and moderate amount of HHO will be produced. Full teaspoon may
heat up the jar (while producing maximal HHO). SOMETIMES THESE NUMBERS will be
totally different depending on your Electrolyzer's structure, its installation, the weather
and other factors. You must therefore experiment and find the best ratio for your
system. For my Toyota installation right now, for eH0m3le* I have found 1 to 2
teaspoons to be the ideal balance. That's in my single cell.
In the very same car I have a Multi-Cell that used to take 8 teaspoons, but now I
reconstructed it and it takes only 4 or 5 teaspoons. It depends and varies.
Don't worry about the jar, we havent seen any jar cracking due to heat. But the plastics
and glue may be damaged, so you don't want overheating for long periods of time.
In H2O mode (no 12 Volts) the unit does not heat up unless it's mounted next to a very
hot part of the engine. Which brings us to HHO units overheating with moderate levels
of Baking Soda - find a cooler place in the engine compartment! If you have the choice,
select a position in front of the engine rather than behind it, because that's where much
cooler air flows in.
(O HHO PO#-CTIO( (O HHO PO#-CTIO(
1. Check for a blown fuse. We have found the 5 Amps useful with teaspoon of
Electrolyte for 1 quart of water. For higher HHO production I use 1 to 2
teaspoon of Electrolyte to 1 quart of water, and replace the fuse to 15-20 Amps
(although idling current measurement reads only about 3 to 4 Amps).
2. If the fuse is OK, check the wiring. Measure the voltage between the terminals -
it should read around 12 Volts (13 volts with the engine running). If you dont
have a voltmeter, check with any 12-volt bulb.
3. Fuse keeps blowing? First check the wiring outside the device. Verify that nothing
touches the body of the car or some other metallic or conductive element.
Inspect the electrodes inside the device. I've been asked if they should be
touching each other. Well yes and no.
Sometimes there are two wires in each electrode, sometimes only one. Each
electrode, which is the wire, or pair of wires, coming out of negative or positive
terminal (the bolt with the wingnut) and spiraling down, should be in one piece
(i.e., not broken or visibly damaged) and spiraling at intervals of about to
Water4Gas Book 1-B 148
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
3/8 (sometimes ) from the other electrode. The photograph below
demonstrates what needs to touch or go very close together, and what not.
If the electrodes are too close together, separate them as shown and glue in
place with Plumbers Goop.
As shown, touching wires or not in each pair is OK, as long as the gaps are kept
between the electrodes.
IF YO- H'+" O()Y O(" ,I" DI(ST"'# OF ' P'IE I( "'CH
")"CTO#"* TH'T@S OK TOO&
4. If the electrodes are severely corroded or broken, they need to be replaced.
B-BB)I(! TOO HI!H O TOO )O, B-BB)I(! TOO HI!H O TOO )O,
Adjust the bubbler cap. A LOW BUBBLING is the ideal level. If it wont adjust, replace
the malfunctioning component (adjuster, tubing or tip). Try to clean it first; it may be
clogged with dust or mud.
HHO PO#-CTIO( TOO )O, HHO PO#-CTIO( TOO )O,
Try to replace the water. Maybe you or somebody else put distilled water and forgot the
Electrolyte. For convenience of weekly or bi-weekly refilling (when replacing ALL the
electrolyte, not for adding a little bit), prepare a gallon of distilled water with the proper
amount of Electrolyte.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 149
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
This way you can pour just the necessary amount every time without worrying about
Electrolyte ratios (for 1 Gallon, 1 teaspoon of Electrolyte is good for moderate production
of HHO, and 4 teaspoons are good for high HHO production).
,'T" )OOKS %-##Y I( ")"CTO)Y$" ,'T" )OOKS %-##Y I( ")"CTO)Y$"
Dont worry too much about water clarity - it will never be perfect. If the water becomes
very dirty in a few days, it may be due to tap water used in Electrolyzer rather than
distilled water! Otherwise replace the water once every 2-4 weeks. You may wash the
entire unit, including the jar and electrodes, with tap water. No need to use soap or
chemicals for perfect cleanliness. Were not in a pharmacy, man, were under the hood
of a car!
%P! (OT 'S "AP"CT"# %P! (OT 'S "AP"CT"#
This is problem number one, and a lot of knowledge has been accumulated on this
subject ever since the early days of 2006 AND PUT INTO two useful resources:
1. The free Interactive Troubleshooter visit http://water4gas.com/support/
2. ,0ter1!0s Book 2 has been specially written - and updated many times as the
knowledge base grew - for mileage tuning and troubleshooting.
First check visually that the system functions mechanically without obstructions:
bubbling level, loose connections, possible leaks or breaks, blocked or dented vacuum
hose, etc.
One major problem I have identified is that of clogged hoses and passages. Sometimes
baking soda builds up in narrow passages such as the universal vacuum-T, the output
check valve (mainly the one going to the intake manifold), and in some cases even the
vacuum port of the intake manifold itself (especially if its inner diameter is very small).
These clogs reduce mileage considerably since they impede the flow of HHO into the
engine.
Blockage looks like a white stone. Yet it is soCt and VERY EASY to remove. Flush the
clogged passage, valve or hose with tap water. No detergent necessary. DO NOT PUSH
HIGH PRESSURE AIR through the check valve since this may bust the delicate
membrane. Some water and a gentle (mouth) air blow will clean it quickly.
The secondary source of problem may be the computer, especially if its a fuel-injected
engine. With any H2O or HHO unit installed, the cars computer may sense more oxygen
in the exhaust pipe. It then considers the fuel mixture to be too lean - and adds more
gasoline - unnecessarily.
Refer to the ,0ter1!0s Book 2 for proven gas economy boosters and solutions. Let me
give you an overview of what's in that book.
Now that you have a Hydrogen-On-Demand technology under the hood, you want to get
the maximum benefits out of it. I have found that most of our clients and other people
experimenting with this technology, are interested in one major thing: SAVING AT THE
GAS PUMP. I bet you want the same thing.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 150
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Now, having HHO added to fuel, and saving at the pump, is not the same thing. I mean
it doesn't automatically follow. There's a whole science in between, and I call this
science GST's or Gas Saving Techniques - a group of devices, techniques and methods
which I find valid and seriously workable to save fuel and reduce emissions.
So we will use the plural and singular versions of this new word. Each GST will work for
you separately - but together all "GST's will add up to a whole lot. GSTs, as a combined
technology, is a perfect sister to ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer and Vaporizer. You will agree
with me after you've read Book 2. Or not.
I will number these babies - GST #1, GST #2, and so forth - so each "GST will refer
from now on to one single and distinct technique of squeezing more benefits out of each
Dollar or Yen or Ruble that you spend on fuel. And let's see how much YOU can squeeze
by using them.
I have decided to separate the GST technology in a book by its own, so you can learn to
push the envelope of gas economy as a sidekick, or in other words a complimentary
knowledge to ,0ter1!0s technology described in Book 1.
So lets re-define this technology: GST is a series of techniques you should use if you're
seriously interested in saving fuel using water as a gasoline supplement.
Download Book 2 from www.Water4Gas.com and read it. You won't regret it.
,'T" F""$"S I( "AT"%" CO)# ,"'TH" ,'T" F""$"S I( "AT"%" CO)# ,"'TH"
First of all, the glass jar will not break when it freezes, because the water has space to
expand UPWARDS, with the air having 4 routes to escape (HHO outputs, pressure
release check valve and the bubbler cap) to make more room for the expanding water.
So just in case it does freeze, it will not break. Not as far as we've seen in several very
cold winters.
The Electrolyzer is capable of thawing itself in a few minutes of operation. Start the
engine and let it run for a few minutes. The electricity running through the spiraled
electrodes acts like a heater and will melt the frozen water. This is safe to do because
this heating process happens all the time anyway.
Solutions su/mitted /y ,0ter1!0s eH3erimenters during 30st Iinters:
In the Electrolyzer, instead of distilled water use washer fluid (not radiator anti-freeze;
not gasoline anti-freeze either). It's enough to use a mixture of half washer fluid (-20
DEGREES GRADE!) and half distilled water. In this case the Electrolyze should be
operated in "H2O mode" which means you pull out the fuse and you use it as a
Vaporizer. Otherwise the electrolysis process will change the washer fluid back to plain
water, in less than an hour of electrolysis.
In a Vaporizer, the WASHER FLUID will stay stable for weeks. And when it goes down,
add only distilled water. It may be necessary to add some washer fluid once a month.
If you want to still be producing HHO, leave the fuse on. In this case you will need to
ADD A BIT OF washer fluid before you park the vehicle for the night. Just remove the
bubbler cap and squirt some washer fluid into the Electrolyzer.
Idea: a small pump connected to the washer fluid reservoir can do this for you with a
push of a button.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 151
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Optionally during winter use the "Charged Water System" (see chapter). In the charging
process, charge a mixture of half washer fluid and half t03 I0ter. As usual, add
Hydrogen Peroxide as soon as the charging is done.
I personally think this one is the best solution: Battery Warmers are being sold
from about O6>. Battery Warmers from InfinitiPartsPeople.com or
www.JCwhitney.com work on 110 volts, while Warming Pads from www.PadHeaters.com
are good for 12 volts.
Both types above take little energy (about 60 Watts) so you can keep it on for a long
time, provided you have a strong battery. You may also wrap the device 0nd the
I0rmer with Mylar or aluminum foil to minimize heat loss. Disconnect the warmer
before driving, because the Electrolyzer will keep itself warm when active.
WWWWWW 'nother o3tion* Gosting 0s loI 0s O>&<< on
eB0y* is to 3l0Ge 0 CoCCee %ug ,0rmer under the
"leGtrolyzer& O3tion0lly Ir03 it Iith %yl0rX*
0luminum Coil or some other ty3e oC insul0ting
/l0nket& Se0rGh eB0y Cor QGoCCee mug I0rmerQ* it Iill
/ring u3 m0ny oCCers& Choose one* Gut oCC the -SB
3lug 0nd GonneGt it to 0 Gig0rette lighter 3lug Dyour
/est GhoiGe oC GonneGtion so you don@t h02e to o3en
the hood in order to sIitGh it on 0nd oCCE& I@2e Cound 0
Gig0rette lighter 3lug - Iith 0n inline Cuse 0nd 0 long
Gord - Cor only O1&5< on eB0y* 0nd you G0n 0lso Cind it
0t your 0uto30rts sho3 Cor 0/out O5&
Since these warmers are calculated to work on 5 volts out of a computer's USB plug,
operating on 12 volts may cause them to overheat. I prefer to use them in pairs.
Connect each pair in series* so each cup warmer gets only 6 volts. Perfect for a multi-
cell.
One solution that you may like is to put quick-connect plugs on both the electrical
connection and the hose connections. Before you leave the vehicle for any extended
period of time (more than 30 minutes), pop up the hood and take the device indoors. By
the way, with ,0ter1!0s technology you can do this safely, since we do not use any
strong acids or any other hazardous chemicals. With distilled water and Baking Soda,
you can safely carry the Electrolyzer into the home or office.
Both the electrical connection and the hose connections can be made with low-cost
connectors from your local hardware store. The electrical plug needs to have only two
wires, and be able to carry 20-30 Amps, and can probably be found in the electrical
department. Your local auto parts shop should carry a selection of connectors such as
the one shown below.
A low cost quick-connect hose connection can probably be found at the irrigation
department - look for "quick connect coupling" or something similar.
If you want a better and safer quick-connect solution for the HHO hose, check out PL-
QuickConnect series made by Watts. Request their free catalog by calling 1-800-617-
3274, faxing 978-689-6209, visiting www.watts.com or writing to them:
Water4Gas Book 1-B 152
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Watts Quick-Connect Plumbing Solutions
Attn: Literature Department
815 Chestnut Street
North Andover, MA 01845, USA
You can download the quick-connect catalog at:
http://www.watts.com/pdf/PL-Quickconnect.pdf
Gari K. from Wyoming, USA, sent me his anti-freeze formula for the Charged Water
System (without the hydrogen peroxide it's good for a regular Vaporizer):
(a) Three teaspoons of baking soda
(b) 2 oz of white vinegar
(c) Three cups of distilled water.... stir till clear
(d) One cup isopropyl alcohol
(e) 2 capfuls of 3% hydrogen peroxide
(f) Then bubble the HHO through (per the instructions in this book) for hour and put
into the vehicle.
,I" F'I)-" I( TH" ")"CTO)Y$" ,I" F'I)-" I( TH" ")"CTO)Y$"
The electrodes get corroded over time, and this is caused by the constant presence of
OXYGEN around the ANODE (the "plus wire). For some reason it does not happen at the
same rate in all cars, and I suspect it's the quality of water and baking soda, as well as
heat.
However, what you should do to prolong the life of the Anode is make it a thicker. And
make sure it's made of st0inless steel gr0de 61:) - no other steel will survive for
very long.
I'm using 0.032" which is pretty thin, however I twist two or three together, using a
drill. That's in order to make it more durable AND gain larger contact surface.
You'd better twist at least that many wires (two or three) for the non-failing wire too
(the Cathode). Let me explain why. As I said the only wire that fails is the Anode due to
touching Oxygen constantly. The Cathode (minus) does not suffer because that's where
the Hydrogen comes out and Hydrogen does not attack stainless steel. However we
want a better contact THERE, to allow enough Hydrogen production 0t the C0thode.
Hope this is clear enough. Bottom line is: better double or triple the wire for both.
Only 316L stainless steel will be soft enough to twist triple 0.032" wires and still be able
to handle it by hand, so you may choose to use 316L for both Anode and Cathode.
Additionally, after several months of using the Electrolyzer, you can switch the polarity
of the voltage supplied to it, and then the almost-fresh Cathode will become the new
Anode, extending and nearly doubling the life span of the Electrolyzer. When both are
corroded, it's time to replace the electrodes. The new grooved towers make electrodes
rewinding a relatively easy job.
Other than that, try out the new materials such as Platinum and Titanium - see chapter
on alternative electrode metals.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 153
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
OTH" 8-"STIO(S '(# POB)"%S OTH" 8-"STIO(S '(# POB)"%S
When in doubt - communicate! Now youre never alone! Visit www.Water4Gas.com and
seek help from other experimenters.
TO EXPEDITE THE HANDLING OF YOUR REQUEST OR QUESTION, PLEASE GIVE AS MANY
DETAILS AS POSSIBLE ABOUT YOU SYSTEM, VEHICLE, ETC. We have published several
books about several systems/versions, and many more versions were developed by my
readers and students, so when we get questions about your system, it's hard to know
exactly what it's all about. Be specific, and offer photos for best clarity.
To know more use the Glossary in this book, the chapter "Useful Resource, our online
knowledge base and the online forums.
Also, by reading the complete series of ,0ter1!0s books and watching the
,0ter1!0s DVD set, you will get a more complete picture of the technology and many
of your questions will be answered right there.
!"T H")P !"T H")P
)" To get more help, visit www.Water4Gas.com
&" Also remember to use the Troubleshooter - it has our latest knowledge on
problems and solutions: http://water4gas.com/support/
Water4Gas Book 1-B 154
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 56 CH'PT" 56
F"" ,'T" ? F"" B'KI(! SO#' F"" ,'T" ? F"" B'KI(! SO#'
HO, TO %'K" YO- O,( HO, TO %'K" YO- O,(
#ISTI))"# ,'T" #ISTI))"# ,'T"
OPTIO( 1
Here's an idea you may want to consider: you can
buy the water distiller shown in the photo, offered
for $97 at WeBeatPrices.com (most distillers on the
market cost $100's).
Or build your own from %B plans sold on
eBay" Note that these plans are obviously
cheap, but may reCuire materials costin2
more than the water distiller mentioned
above, not to mention your time and travel"
OPTIO( 5
You may choose to build a water distiller yourself, for dirt cheap. Grab the Free Sol0r
#istiller Pl0ns at wwwthefarm.org/charities/i4at/surv/sstill.htm
The solar distiller suggested there produces three Gallons per
day. Since you need only a fraction of that 3er Ieek, you
may choose to reduce these plans and build a much smaller
version from scrap materials.
OPTIO( 6
But here's how you can build a solar water distiller RIGHT NOW for next to nothing,
because most of the materials needed can be normally found around the home:
1. Take a bucket or a big plastic bowl, fill it with tap water, and place a large cup
in the center of the bucket, 0/o2e water level. Suspend the cup with some tape
or wire so it stays afloat at the center of the bucket.
2. Put any type of plastic wrap or thin plastic sheet (preferably clear or transparent)
over the top of the bucket.
3. Put a stone or some other weight at the center of the plastic wrap, on top. It
should be just heavy enough to bend down the wrap and form an inverted cone.
The tip of the cone should be pointed directly into the cup inside the bucket.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 155
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
4. Place this contraption in the sun for a few hours. The water will start to evaporate
and its vapor will condense on the plastic wrap. The condensed water will drip
down the cone you've created - and fall right into the cup. This is distilled water.
5. DO NOT DRINK THIS WATER. The warm plastic leaves microscopic particles not
good for human consumption. Yet this distilled water is perfectly good to run in a
car!!!
HO, TO !"T 1>>V F"" B'KI(! SO#' HO, TO !"T 1>>V F"" B'KI(! SO#'
Many households use Baking Soda for a wide variety of uses. Harry Godwin published a
list with SIXTY different uses of Baking Soda at
http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/lib2/60soda.htm
These uses cover household cleaning, relief of bee stings, cleaning teeth and even...
baking (duh!)
After Baking Soda has been lying around for a while, especially if kept
open in the fridge to absorb odors, it looses its freshness and/or
becomes kind of solid, thus unable to absorb the odors.
Housewives and cleaning ladies throw them away all the time. Ask
your neighbors to keep for you those Baking Soda boxes or bags that
they're replacing with fresh ones, and you'll have enough supplies for
a lifetime.
As above for water, do not consume stale baking soda for your own
food and hygiene - yet it is perfect for running in a car!!!
And don't forget to thank your neighbors for contributing to environmental preservation,
both by (a) recycling, and (b) helping to reduce smog and global warming!
NOTE: -S" O()Y P-" B'KI(! SO#' suGh 0s 'rm ? H0mmer& If the soda has
sugar and stuff in it, those materials would not get directly into the engine but the
chemical reactions inside the device itself are unpredictable.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 156
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 51 CH'PT" 51
B'KI(! SO#' ')T"('TI+"S B'KI(! SO#' ')T"('TI+"S
TH" POB)"% TH" POB)"%
The most popular catalyst is Baking Soda due to its non-toxic nature, availability, ease
of use and low cost. In the US and UK, baking soda is a household commodity and can
be found in every grocery...but in some countries such as Yemen and Nigeria,
experimenters have surprised me by saying they've been unable to find baking soda
anywhere in the entire country! At first I thought they did not understand the term.
Come to find out, as we expand and reach more countries around the world, this weird
problem is shared by a growing number of experimenters. I think it's because Baking
Soda when combined with vinegar can create primitive (and very weak) "bombs and
some governments are afraid to give it to their citizens...
Maybe they should outlaw vinegar too... [joke].
')T"('TI+"S TO B'KI(! SO#' 'S ' C'T')YST ')T"('TI+"S TO B'KI(! SO#' 'S ' C'T')YST
1& Sodium Citr0te which is basically citric acid - a S'F" food ingredient used in ice
cream, cheese and wine. At the time of writing, it sells for $3.99 at
http://www.water4gas.com/1/chemistry.htm
Or try locally - ice cream/beverage factory, food supplies, etc. Might be called
Citrosodine, Tri-Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid (P-" GitriG 0Gid, no sugar please!), or Tri-
Sodium Salt.
5& ,0shing Sod0 is a laundry detergent that might be found under the names Soda
Ash, Laundry Soda, Sal Soda, or Sodium Carbonate. Used as a non-toxic all-purpose
cleaner - look in the laundry section of your grocery store.
6& Bor0H is also used for laundry and might be known as Sodium Borate, Sodium
Tetraborate, or Disodium Tetraborate. It is (OT /oriG 0Gid&
Although non-dangerous in general, Washing Soda and Borax might be toxic if
swallowed. Keep away from children!
Water4Gas Book 1-B 157
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Just so you have a complete body of information, the following list covers the major
catalysts that can be used (but are not necessarily safe) for electrolysis. NOT in order of
importance of effectiveness, just alphabetical order:
C0t0lyst
HHO
ProduGtion
D1 to 9E
#irt in
I0ter
D1 to 1>E
Tem3er0ture* Gurrent st0/ility*
Gorrosion
Artificially flavored drink mix
(dry ascorbic acid, citric
acid, etc. from the grocery)
1 0
(cleanest)
Stable current
Baking Soda (Sodium
Bicarbonate)
3-4 5 Water heats up, stable current
Baking Soda Iith +ineg0r 4 2-3 Water heats up, current may
double
Borax (Sodium Borate) 2 1 Moderate temperature rise,
current may double
Ferrous Sulfate (iron) 2 8 Current highly unstable, might
triple or more!
Hydrated Lime, Pickling Lime
(Calcium Hydroxide)
3 8 Water heats up quickly,
current rises. Heavy scum on
jar and electrodes!
Magnesium Sulfate 3 8 Water heats up moderately
but current might triple!
Heavy scum on jar and
electrodes!
Potassium Hydroxide (KOH).
+ery 0Gti2e - 0/out Y
needed Cor s0me HHO
3roduGtion
4 5 Very exothermic (releasing
heat) when dissolved in
water, and during electrolysis.
Current unstable, may double
or more, prone to thermal
runaway.
Pure Distilled Vinegar, 5%
acidity, no water added.
Heinz brand recommended
because they have truly
Gontrolled 0Gidity&
2 3 Moderate temperature rise but
current may double
Table Salt (Sodium Silicate) 5 10
(extreme
junk)
Stable current, but very fast
corrosion of the electrodes!
Tri-Sodium Citrate (citric
acid)
4 4 Moderate temperature rise,
stable current
Washing Soda (Sodium
Carbonate)
4 4 Good temperature stability -
prevents freezing
Water4Gas Book 1-B 158
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
-(S'F" -(S'F" ')T"('TI+"S TO B'KI(! SO#' ')T"('TI+"S TO B'KI(! SO#'
The -(S'F" alternatives - just Cor your inCorm0tion - are
sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. The household
lye or G0ustiG sod0 will work, provided it is pure sodium
hydroxide.
,'(I(!... -S" "AT"%" C'-TIO( ,H"(
H'(#)I(! '(# -SI(! TH"S" H'SH %'T"I')S (if
you ever do) - they are presented to you here as an
UNSAFE, last resort alternative! Search Google for the
proper safety precautions when handling these materials.
,e Iill not /e li0/le Cor 0ny d0m0ges or inUuries*
Ihether you ColloIed the s0Cety 3reG0utions or not&
All the substances mentioned above have different effects on electrolysis and different
heat characteristics, so do not assume the same amount of teaspoons per jar - you must
experiment to find out the proper catalyst concentration for YOUR Electrolyzer. For
example, in high concentrations Potassium Hydroxide may cause overheating and
"thermal runaway (see definition in Glossary).
HO, TO H'(#)" '(# #ISPOS" OF -S"# ")"CTO)YT"B HO, TO H'(#)" '(# #ISPOS" OF -S"# ")"CTO)YT"B
"CO%%"(#"# P"C'-TIO( R1
'),'YS ,"' -BB" !)O+"S* )O(! S)""+"S '(# POP" "Y"
POT"CTIO( ,H"( H'(#)I(! C'T')YSTS O ")"CTO)YT"S&
"CO%%"(#"# P"C'-TIO( R5
#ISPOS" OF -S"# ")"CTO)YT" I( 'CCO#'(C" ,ITH )OC') TOAIC ,'ST"
"!-)'TIO(S& How exactly? The information is very hard to find - and very confusing
when you do find it - if you don't ask the right people. Ask three people off the street
and you'll get five answers. Even official code is not always clear. The American Society
of Civil Engineers (www.ASCE.org) lightly criticized California's "confusing maze of
hazardous waste regulations.
Contact your City Hall and ask for the "Hazardous and Toxic Materials Office or the
"Environmental Services Division" or something like that. Here in Los Angeles their
phone number is 213-978-0891. Explain that you might need, hypothetically, to dispose
of very small quantities of liquid waste used in eleGtrolysis oC distilled I0ter.
The words K2ery sm0ll Su0ntitiesL are extremely important to paint the proper picture
in their mind and prevent panic or friction, because you are +"Y F' from being one
of those factories and tanneries (and large welding projects) that produce TONS of toxic
waste every week, sometimes every day.
Bruno M. said on the ,0ter1!0s discussion group:
>3ere in Durope, every villa2e has a $containerpark$ E a municipal
closed off space, where all kinds of household waste can be
deposited F sorted out by kind, like, 2lass, paper, plastic, 2arden
waste, tires, wast oil etc" 1here is always a GH- deposit bo#, IGH-
Water4Gas Book 1-B 159
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
; Glein HevaarliJk -fval ; small dan2erous wasteK, like mercury
filled thermometers, paint 6spray cans7 and solvent residues, etc"
we can 2ive it off there"A
"CO%%"(#"# P"C'-TIO( R6
IT@S B"TT" TO ("-T')I$" TH" ")"CTO)YT" YO-S")F B"FO" #ISPOSI(!
IT& There are several ways to neutralize the toxins yourself. The panic regarding
electrolysis is that it produces a chemical called "hexavalent chromium symbolized as
Cr(VI).
Cr(VI) is being widely used in leather tanning, wood preservation, and in the production
of stainless steel, paints, textile dyes, videotapes and other products. It is also released
when melting chromium, contained in welding fumes, as well as other by-products of
industry. In 1985, for example, estimates WikiPedia.org, 136,000,000 kilograms
(300,000,000 lb) of hexavalent chromium were produced. The yearly quantities today
may be different, but you probably have several products in your home or shop
containing this chemical.
First of all, according to my research, it is not necessarily true that ELECTROLYSIS OF
WATER produces Cr(VI) in significant quantities, or even at all. It depends on the
metals used in the Electrolyzer.
Famous HHO researcher and publicist Spodie Odie of Ruskin, Florida
(http://EnergySowAndTell.wetpaint.com) told me that Cr(VI) is part of the formula of
lower grade stainless steel (like 302/304) - and can therefore leach out during
electrolysis; but if you used stainless steel of grade 316L, it would not release Cr(VI) in
electrolysis. I was not able to verify this information. Other sources said that Stainless
Steel 316L is indeed much safer and would release negligible quantities of Cr(VI).
IMPORTANT IN EITHER CASE: Spodie also noted that if somebody would run a
chemical test he could find some Ghromium in the water, but that does not
necessarily mean that he has found heH020lent chromium in it! The basic "chromium
test, says Spodie, only seeks Ghromium in gener0l* and therefore it misses the
point because not all chromium is Cr(VI).
Optimally, we now have the alternative materials described in detail in the chapter
"ELECTRODES: AFFORDABLE VERY-HIGH-QUALITY ALTERNATIVES TO STAINLESS
STEEL - use it to find materials without Cr(VI). Now that they were made 0CCord0/le*
there is no reason we shouldn't use these metals.
In case youre using lower grade steel such as 302/304 - how bad is hexavalent
chromium? The Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA, part of US
Department of Labor and THE authority on workers safety and health) says in their
official website OSHA.gov that "Workers who breathe hexavalent chromium compounds
at their jobs for many years may be at increased risk of developing lung cancer.
Irritation or damage to the eyes and skin can occur if hexavalent chromium contacts
these organs in high GonGentr0tions or Cor 0 3rolonged 3eriod oC time&"
You can evaluate, if you think about it, that if you pass by a tiny amount of hexavalent
chromium once or twice a month it is not like you're welding a 2500-mile pipeline and
breathing it 8 hours a day in high concentrations for "prolonged periods of time...
Water4Gas Book 1-B 160
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
("-T')I$I(! CD+IE ("-T')I$I(! CD+IE
!ener0l
Despite the above, hexavalent chromium IS toxic and we need to treat it as such IF we
produce it. So let's look at local solutions. I mean, something must be available for us to
neutralize hexavalent chromium ourselves, without relying on the city and without
causing new problems. Chemistry is not my realm, but here is what I have found.
ChemiG0l I0ys to neutr0lize CrD+IE
In a 2005 study supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China,
researchers from the Department of Environmental Engineering in Zhejiang University
were successful in eliminating 100% of Hexavalent Chromium, using a common mild
oxidizer called Potassium Dichromate (used in many labs and industries). The complete
research paper, titled "Removal of hexavalent chromium from aqueous solution by iron
nanoparticles", can be found and printed here:
http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/articlerender.fcgi?artid=1390446
(http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1390446/)
It's in English so you don't have to read Chinese. The graphs will print small - click each
one to open a larger graph.
Additionally, US Patent number 5,304,710 explains how to neutralize hexavalent
chromium using substances such as Ferrous Sulfate and Calcium Hydroxide:
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5304710/description.html
Lab-grade Ferrous Sulfate can be purchased for $8.95 here from:
http://store01.prostores.com/servlet/thescienceshop/the-1702/FERROUS-(IRON-II)-
SULFATE/Detail
The Science Shop
Phone at 1-800-282-3248
1043 Di Giulio Avenue,
Santa Clara, CA 95050
Store Hours: Monday - Friday only, 9:00am to 5:30pm PST
Lab-grade Calcium Hydroxide can purchased for $6.84 here:
http://store.hvchemical.com/search.htm?
step=2&viewfrom=1&numresults=10&searchterm=Calcium+Hydroxide
Hi-Valley Chemical
Mail: P.O. Box 69, Centerville, UT 84014
Physical store located at: 1134 West 850 North, Centerville, UT 84014
Hours: Monday Thru Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm MST
Water4Gas Book 1-B 161
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Home solutions to neutr0lize CrD+IE
James Hutchinson of Talladega, Alabama, suggested his method of Cr(VI) neutralization
on the ,0ter1!0s discussion group:
>Before emptyin2 the cell put & table spoons of sucroseL in the
electrolyte" Run for a couple of hours then drain and dispose as
usual" 1he sucrose chan2es the chromium@. to chromium@< that is not
hazardous"A
* Sucrose means TABLE SUGAR.
Is this supported by science? Evidently so!
Phil Berardelli, in his article "Sweet Solution for Chromium Pollution, reported in
"ScienceNOW http://sciencenow.sciencemag.org of 29 March 2007, that chemist Bryan
Bilyeu of Xavier University of Louisiana (XULA) has discovered that adding a FRUCTOSE
solution to waste-water and soil contaminated with Cr(VI), removes 94% of the
contaminate. GLUCOSE has also been researched and was found to remove 93% of the
contaminate.
According to Berardelli's article, the sugar in these household materials converts the
toxic chromium Cr(VI) into the naturally occurring AND MORE STABLE Cr(III)
[chromium-3 or "Trivalent chromium] which is a vital nutrient for our body's health
[this is verified in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium].
FRUCTOSE and GLUCOSE are abundant in high-fructose corn syrup, corn sugar, grape
sugar, crystalline fructose, honey, etc.
-S" B"TT" %"T')S. -S" B"TT" %"T')S.
Make the extra effort to get a roll or two of 316L wire. MAKE SURE IT IS TRUE 61:)
AND NOT THE SO-CALLED "316L USED FOR WELDING.
Better yet, experiment with "exotic metals instead of 316L. Metals such as Platinum
and Niobium in the past have been considered cost-prohibitive, however I have found
0CCord0/le alternatives. Refer to the chapter "ELECTRODES: AFFORDABLE VERY-HIGH-
QUALITY ALTERNATIVES TO STAINLESS STEEL. Also search for new materials/sources
at Water4Gas.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 162
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 59 CH'PT" 59
,H"" TO !"T +"Y-)O,-COST P'TS ,H"" TO !"T +"Y-)O,-COST P'TS
O+"+I", O+"+I",
This chapter contains the complete "secrets" on how you can obtain $53 worth of parts,
to make $500-$800 systems. In fact, I was making and selling five such systems a day
- selling each for $497.00 - from the corner of my small bedroom in Studio City.
When the demand became too high for one man to satisfy, I decided to release my
complete manufacturing knowledge to the public, no secrets held back. You're most
welcome to use this knowledge, now revised and improved, to create a profitable
business for yourself while helping 1000's of people and the environment - or upgrade
your own fleet of vehicles affordably.
P'TS SO-C"S I( TH" -S' P'TS SO-C"S I( TH" -S'
You will find the table below useful
for small-scale manufacturing of the
popular ,0ter1!0s system shown
in this book. I have optimized it for
manufacturing 100 complete
systems at a time, including
shipping of parts to me (Los
Angeles). For larger scales you can
probably reduce the costs to less
than $40 per system!
This information is also useful for
making one system (or a few) at a
time, since these are very good
sources; in small quantities expect
to spend $70-$100 per system.
As you will see from the totals below, my total cost of parts for a complete ,0ter1!0s
System is about $50 +minimal shipping costs. Parts for the Electrolyzer (Hydrogen
Generator) itself are only about $15 +shipping, which is im3ort0nt to knoI Ihen
GonstruGting kits oC multi3le Gells suGh 0s the 3o3ul0r Q:-30GkQ& There may be
small additions (pennies per system) for things like glue and paint, but the numbers
below will help you estimate your local manufacturing costs.
I do not have cost calculations for the UK and other countries, but I provide you with the
best information I have for these locations. Wherever you are, develop your own optimal
list by researching all available sources online and comparing them to your local
hardware stores. Don't forget that a weekly/monthly round of local shopping can save
you a lot in shipping costs, not to mention saving the time waiting for shipments to
arrive in the mail.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 163
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Items for popular
Do-It-Yourself Kit
Pack
good
for how
many
kits?
Package
price
Item
cost
per kit
S&H
(100
pack)
+tax
USA Source, Manufacturer Part #,
Store Part #, Barcode, etc.
")"CTO)Y$"
Jar "Wide Mouth
Mason Jar"
6 $8.33 $1.39 Local OSH barcode 111>>-:4>>>-7.
Or www.Amazon.com
Lid "Ball 37000
wide mouth
canning jar plastic
storage caps"
96 $39.99 $0.42 $7.59 www.CanningPantry.com/bawimoplstca.html
Cheaper source: www.Amazon.com $0.37
from !oodm0n@s
Tower (Electrode
Core), Plexiglas
2.5" x 5.5" x 1/8"
(x2)
1 $3.24 $3.24 www.usplastic.com Part # 44241. Anibal
Riquelme 818-890-4074 (company name
"A&F Display") makes them very
affordably & VERY high quality
Electrode wire,
316L Stainless
Steel 20 Ga., 60"
(320'/roll)
64 $15.16 $0.24 $34.56
www.SunsetWire.com No Part # - order by
description. Phone 1-888-8!-"#1# (Tina).
Alternative source: McMaster-Carr
www.mcmaster.com phone $!%& (%"-()).
')T"('TI+" HI!H)Y #-'B)"
%"T')S DTIT'(I-%* P)'TI(-%*
(IOBI-%E see relevant chapter
Bolt "x7/8" (100-
pk) x2
50 $6.80 $0.14 Local Home Depot. Barcode 30699000302
Washer ", flat
(100-pk) x2
50 $1.10 $0.02 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
Washer ", split
(100-pk) x2
50 $1.40 $0.03 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
Nut " (100-pk)
x2
33.33 $2.00 $0.06 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
Wing Nut Coarse
" (100-pk) x2
50 $12.90 $0.26 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
Barb coupling 1 $0.08 $0.08 $4.42 www.gar*en*rip.org Part # FITH80-1
Or www.*ripwor+susa.com/store/ho(gas.php
Elbow Fitting x2 0.33 $0.09 $0.27 $4.42 www.gar*en*rip.org Part # FITH83-1
Or www.*ripwor+susa.com/store/ho(gas.php
Water4Gas Book 1-B 164
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Items for popular
Do-It-Yourself Kit
Pack
good
for how
many
kits?
Package
price
Item
cost
per kit
S&H
(100
pack)
+tax
USA Source, Manufacturer Part #,
Store Part #, Barcode, etc.
Adjustable Bubbler 0.5 $0.42 $0.83 $9.00 www.*ripwor+susa.com/store/ho(gas.php
Check Valve, small
blue
1 $0.41 $0.41 Qosina #80068. phone %"1-(-",,,
(commercial quantities required).
Alternative source: www.usplastic.com item
# 64048. Alternative source: item A961
(or A1175) from MPC: www.mpc-inc.com
Check Valve, hi-
flow white
0.5 $1.50 $3.00 R-723 from www.resene-.com
Tel: 1-800 220.1876. www.usplastic.com
item # 64048. Qosina #91029 Ph.631-
242-3000 (commercial quantities
required). Alternative source: item
A1175 from MPC:
www.mpc-inc.com
Clear Vinyl Tubing
"x0.170"ID, 6"
+15" +15" +6"
(20' roll)
5.71 $2.69 $0.47 Local Home Depot PLUMBING DEPT
(Hollywood: isle 6)
barcode 48643025493
Vacuum Hose, "
5/32 ID, 43" +6"
+6" +5" (50'
spool)
10 $15.50 $1.55 $50.00 www.imperialinc.com part # 95921, talk to
Lauren 1-8,,-!!8-8,8, Ext.5433 (say hi
from Ozzie)
Vacuum Tee,
Universal "Dorman
Vacu-Tite!"
1 $1.99 $1.99 Local www.Autozone.com (phone your local
store!)
Part # 47349, Barcode 3749547349-1
Yellow Anchor
(100-pk) "Crown
Bolt" Ribbed
Anchors 4-6x7/8
50 $2.97 $0.06 Local Home Depot Part # 54772. Barcode
76818030010. NON CRITICAL - use just
about any small anchor or diffuser
Wire, Red 14-GA
32" (100' roll)
37 $13.99 $0.38 Local Cheapest - AUTO ZONE: Barcode
3749585776-5 (red wire)
Wire, Black 14-GA
36" (100' roll)
142 $51.31 $0.36 Local ALTERNATIVE SOURCE: www.*elcity.net
Part # 3714505 (blk wire)
Fuse Holder "8
Amp Nylon In-Line
Fuse Holder"
(w/fuse)
1 $0.58 $0.58 $9.50 www..elCity. net (DelCity, not DellCity)
Part # 79185
Water4Gas Book 1-B 165
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Items for popular
Do-It-Yourself Kit
Pack
good
for how
many
kits?
Package
price
Item
cost
per kit
S&H
(100
pack)
+tax
USA Source, Manufacturer Part #,
Store Part #, Barcode, etc.
Butt Terminal 16-
14 AWG, x2 (100-
pk)
100 $6.95 $0.07 stores.ebay.com/Hal/o//toolsplus
Spade Terminal
16-14 AWG,1/4",
x2 (100-pk)
50 $8.68 $0.17 $4.25 stores.ebay.com/0ims-1arine-Auto-an*-
2lectrical
or HOME DEPOT (electric dept), about
$7
Quick Splice, 16-
14 AWG (25-pk)
x2
12.5 $2.88 $0.23 Local Home Depot # 78178970027.
www..elCity.net Part # 905585
O-Ring 50 $11.55 $0.20 Local www.3rainger.com/3rainger/items/1453
Part # 1KLG2
PC+ "(H'(C"
Glass Beads, 8 mm
round (65-pk)
3.25 $1.99 $0.61 Local Jo-Ann's Crafts. Part # 1967-31,
barcode 65269539126-2
Inline Desiccant
Dryer/Filter
1 $5.99 $5.99 Local Harbor Freight Tools Item 94733-1VGA
Note: the item above is what Husky and Kobalt
call Mini Air Filter, used as the body for our PCV
Enhancer. Apparently, both Husky and Kobalt
(Lowe's item # 221024) have discontinued their
mini air filters described in the book.
Alternatives >>>>>>
Alternative body for the PCV Enhancer:
Campbell Hausfeld #MP513810, "Mini
Air Filter", $19.84 at Home 6 7eyon*,
store item #0070207, order by phone 1-
8%%-#%1-""%,
$17.63 at 8rue 9alue, store item
#895649, phone 1-8),-"%(-(1(!
$16.57 at .rillSpot, store item #306053,
phone ),...
$14.53 at :on;s Home 6 Har*ware, store
item #895649 , Phone 1-888-%,)-)%%)
If all these stores have run out of stock,
search 3oogle (more expensive stores that
carry the same product), but don't use
the little $4 filter, because its " inlet is
too restrictive for PCV flow.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 166
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Items for popular
Do-It-Yourself Kit
Pack
good
for how
many
kits?
Package
price
Item
cost
per kit
S&H
(100
pack)
+tax
USA Source, Manufacturer Part #,
Store Part #, Barcode, etc.
3/8" Hose Barb
Adapter
0.5 $1.92 $3.84 Local Home Depot, Watts Part # A-293,
barcode 04864307449-1
Bottom Cap Local " of vinyl tubing (3/8" OD barcode
048643025523 from Home Depot,
Irrigation dept). Seal with glass bead or
glue.
%'P S"(SO "(H'(C"
SPDT switch (100
pack)
100 $75.00 $0.75 Local All 2lectronics.com, Van Nuys, CA. Part #
MTS-4
Box 3.25" x 2" 1 $1.75 $1.75 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA. Part # TB-
2
Connector 3-prong 1 $1.50 $1.50 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA. Part #
CON-30
Pot 50K Linear
(+aluminum nut)
0.5 $0.50 $1.00 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA. Part # LPT-
50K
Knob 0.5 $0.30 $0.60 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA (no part
number, use available)
Resistor 33K,
Watt
0.5 $0.05 $0.10 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA (no part
number, use available)
Solder material,
wires
Solder get from www.:a*ioShac+.com
Short wires - reGyGle sGr03 m0teri0ls
from telephone technician, old radio, etc
BEST online
alternatives for
electronics >>>
www.DigiKey.com
www.Mouser.com
www.Jameco.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 167
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Items for popular
Do-It-Yourself Kit
Pack
good
for how
many
kits?
Package
price
Item
cost
per kit
S&H
(100
pack)
+tax
USA Source, Manufacturer Part #,
Store Part #, Barcode, etc.
F-") H"'T"
3" Brass Pipe
Nipple
0.5 $3.49 $6.98 Local Home Depot: Watts Part # A-744,
barcode 04864307225-1
" Hose Barb
Adapter
0.5 $1.64 $3.28 Local Home Depot: Watts Part # A-197,
barcode 04864307103-2
PIP Elbow 1 $3.27 $3.27 Local Home Depot: Watts Part # A-727,
barcode 04864307212-1
FIP to MIP Street
Elbow
1 $2.83 $2.83 Local Home Depot: Watts Part # A-739,
barcode 04864307220-6
Plumbers Pipe
Dope
Local Sometimes called "Plumbers Dope or
"Joint Compound
Total Cost per 100
Complete Kits:
$5,166 $131 $5,297 = $53 per kit
I(ST'))'TIO( 'CC"SSOI"S
(YOU MAY INCLUDE THESE IN COMMERCIAL KITS BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO)
Baking Soda 3.8oz
(12lb bag)
50 $5.95 $0.12 Local Costco, barcode 033200011910
www.costco.com/Warehouse/locator.asp-
Measuring
teaspoon
1000 $20.84 $0.02 www.cleansweepsupply.com/pages/item-
*-eptm1.html
Split Flex Tubing
3/8", 5 ft
2 $0.99 $0.50 Local Home Depot Electrical, Part # 772240,
barcode 81789722405
Mini Bungees x2
(20-pk)
10 $6.80 $0.68 Local Harbor Freight Tools
www.harbor/reight.com
Nylon Cable tie, 8"
x8 (100-pk)
12.5 $4.99 $0.40 Local Harbor Freight Tools
www.harbor/reight.com
Nylon Cable tie,
11" x10 (100-pk)
10 $4.99 $0.50 Local Harbor Freight Tools
www.harbor/reight.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 168
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Items for popular
Do-It-Yourself Kit
Pack
good
for how
many
kits?
Package
price
Item
cost
per kit
S&H
(100
pack)
+tax
USA Source, Manufacturer Part #,
Store Part #, Barcode, etc.
Total for
accessories >>>
O5&55
P'P"* P'CK'!I(!* !)-"* P'I(T
(IF YOU MASS PRODUCE AND SHIP VIA PRIORITY MAIL, plus GLUE AND SPRAY PAINT
THAT MAY BE NEEDED)
Packing Tape, 55-
yard
14 $0.99 $0.07 Local 99-Only Store, or Harbor Freight
Tools www.harbor/reight.com
Marine Goop
(3.7oz) x2
20 $4.77 $0.24 Local Ace Hardware www.AceHar*ware.com
NOTE: Plumbers Goop from Home
Depot is just as good as Marine Goop or
Automotive Goop for our purposes!
Bags, ziplock
"GoodSense" (35-
pk) x2 (bungees
+ties)
17.5 $0.99 $0.06 Local 99-Only Store, Barcode 2990021087-6
Bags, ziplock
"GoodSense" (50-
pk) for baking
soda
50 $0.99 $0.02 Local 99-Only Store, Barcode 2990021003-6
Bubble wrap,
12"x12" (188' roll)
188 $23.00 $0.12 $10.00 www.<line.com Part # S-2503P
Box, Priority Mail,
Flat Rate
25 $0.00 $0.00 Free Call 1-8,,--1811 and get them FREE
from the US Postal Service, delivered to
your door!
Spray, RED 50 $1.99 $0.04 Local Home Depot (this is for painting the
wing nuts)
Spray, BLACK 50 $1.99 $0.04 Local Home Depot (this is for painting the
wing nuts)
Water4Gas Book 1-B 169
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
P'TS SO-C"S I( TH" -(IT"# KI(!#O%;"-OP" P'TS SO-C"S I( TH" -(IT"# KI(!#O%;"-OP"
Items Cor 3o3ul0r #o-It-YourselC Kit SourGe
Spray P`aint Black/Red
Bolts
Washers
Nuts
Wing Nuts
Anchors
Glue - (we found "Evo-Stik Araldite" to be
good)
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Drill
Drill Bits
Flashlight
Knife and Blades
Protective Eye-Wear and Work Gloves
Homebase
or 76=
Butt + Spade Terminals
Bungee Cords
Multimeter
Solder Iron
Crimper
Hal/or*s
Distilled Water www.Sort5i/eOut.co.u+
Baking Soda Sainsburys or AS.A
Wide Mouth Mason Jar
Wide Mouth Mason Jar Plastic Lid
8 Amp Fuse
In-Line Fuse Holder
316L Stainless Steel Wire
Bolts, Washers, Nuts, Wing nuts and Anchors
Barb Coupling
Elbow Fitting
Adjustable Dripper (bubbler)
Check Valve, Inline
Check Valve, High Flow
Clear Vinyl Tubing
Vacuum Hose
Butt + Spade Terminals
Quick Splice Connectors
Water(3as2urope.com
email:
Contact>Water(3as2urope.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 170
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Items Cor 3o3ul0r #o-It-YourselC Kit SourGe
All MAP ensor !n"an#er Parts$
SPDT On-On Mini Toggle Switch
Box
Potentiometer 50k-100k Linear
Knob, Blue / Red
Resistor 33k, Watt
Solder Material
Wires 18awg, Red, Black, Green/Yellow
Baking Soda
PVC Tape
Glue
Plexiglas, cut to size or ready-made Electrode
Tower
Water(3as2urope.com
email:
Contact>Water(3as2urope.com
P'TS SO-C"S I( #"(%'K P'TS SO-C"S I( #"(%'K
The following list has been submitted by Kenneth Bakholm, a ,0ter1!0s experimenter
from Denmark (Thanks, Kenneth!)
- 1 Liter jar from Bilka

/A-Z

, 25kr. Successfully tested, filled with


water and put in the freezer -18C.
- Alternative to plastic lid: I have not found a suitable plastic lid in
Denmark yet. I make a big hole 60-65 mm / 2.5" in the metal lid,
with a big hobby knife (watch out for those fingers). Then I glue
Plexiglas on to3 of the lid.
- Electrode wire - stainless steel grade 316L go to the local blacksmith. Grade 316L is
used for TIG-welding, 4 kr/meter.
INote from Ozzie: 3EL4IN5 <).8 wire is very 3-RD and should only be used
if you cannot 2et re2ular <).8 from the online sources 2iven above, or
the alternative metals such as 1itanium 2iven belowK
- Vacuum Hose, 1/4" (7/32" I.D.): Mekonomen

- Vacuum Tee, Universal: Mekonomen

- Wire, Red 14-GA 32": Bilka

/A-Z

- Wire, Black 14-GA 32": Bilka

/A-Z

- Fuse Holder +fuse: Mekonomen

- Baking soda: Bilka

/A-Z

, Kvickly

, Super Best

etc.
- Butt Terminal 16-14 AWG: Bilka

/A-Z

- Spade Terminal 16-14 AWG, " or #10: Bilka

/A-Z

- Cable ties: Bilka

/A-Z

, Jem og Fix

etc.
- LiquiSole

: Expensive but very good, I use this for all gluing. From Bauhaus

, 80kr.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 171
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
SO-C"S I( TH" OTH" CO-(TI"S SO-C"S I( TH" OTH" CO-(TI"S
Are you having a hard time finding any of these
parts in your country? Get local help from your
fellow ,0ter1!0s experimenters and Vendors
at www.Water4Gas.com
B0king Sod0 T 'ltern0ti2es
In the US and UK, every grocery carries baking soda...but in some
countries such as Yemen and Nigeria, experimenters have been
unable to find /0king sod0 anywhere in the entire country!
Alternatives: Sodium Citr0te which is basically citric acid - a
S'F" food ingredient used in ice cream, cheese and wine. Get at
http://www.water4gas.com/1/chemistry.htm - Or try locally: ice
cream/beverage factory, food supplies, etc. Sometimes called
Citrosodine, Tri-Sodium Citrate, Tri-Sodium Salt, or PURE Citric
Acid (no sugar please!)
You may also try Q,0shing Sod0Q& It may be named Soda Ash,
Laundry Soda, Sal Soda, or Sodium C0r/on0te& Used as a non-
toHiG all-purpose cleaner - look in the laundry section of your
grocery store. Try "Borax" (also used for laundry) known as
Sodium Borate, Sodium Tetraborate, or Disodium Tetraborate.
Although non-dangerous in general, Washing Soda and Borax may
be toxic if swallowed. Keep away from children!
The -(S'F" alternatives, just Cor your inCorm0tion, are sodium
hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. The household lye or G0ustiG
sod0 will work, provided it is pure sodium hydroxide.
,'(I(!... -S" "AT"%" C'-TIO( ,H"( H'(#)I(! '(#
-SI(! TH"S" H'SH %'T"I')S - they are presented to you
here as an UNSAFE, last resort alternative! Refer to Google for
safety precautions when handling these materials. ,e Iill not /e
li0/le Cor 0ny d0m0ges or inUuries* Ihether you ColloIed the
s0Cety 3reG0utions or not& ALWAYS WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, LONG SLEEVES AND
PROPER EYE PROTECTION WHEN HANDLING CATALYSTS.
All the substances mentioned above have different effects on electrolysis and different
heat characteristics, so do not assume the same amount of teaspoons per jar - you must
experiment to find out the proper catalyst concentration for YOUR Electrolyzer. For
example, in high concentrations Potassium Hydroxide may cause overheating and
thermal runaway (see definition in Glossary).
#istilled ,0ter
If you cannot find distilled water locally, do (OT compromise on tap water!!! Distill your
own, using the low cost distillers described earlier in this book.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 172
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 5: CH'PT" 5:
,H'T@S ("ATB ,H'T@S ("ATB
I@% !)'# YO- H'+" THIS BOOK. I@% !)'# YO- H'+" THIS BOOK.
This is only one book out of a complete series. If you're not signed up yet to receive the
complete series, please do so by joining ,0ter1!0s at www.Water4Gas.com/join.htm
I'm sure that reading this book and experimenting with the technology has enhanced
your belief that water-fuel and the conversion of water-to-energy are DOABLE.
Your next step is to make full use of the knowledge you now have, for your benefit and
for the benefit of your environment. Now you can take one or both lines of action:
1. Make yourself a system to install in your car or fleet, or...
2. Get ready-made systems (or professional installation) from www.Water4Gas.com
YO- H")P (""#"# - H")P -S '(# %'K" OOO TOO YO- H")P (""#"# - H")P -S '(# %'K" OOO TOO
Additional sources of income for you: help us spread the good word about ,0ter1!0s.
The Iorld %-ST /e inCormed 0/out this teGhnology. Enjoy this exciting new
technology - and tell your friends about your ,0ter1!0s system and knowledge.
You can use it in many ways:
You can teach this knowledge! TEACHERS - did you know that I've permitted my
,0ter1!0s DVD's for public showing? You're welcome to show them in your
school or town, whether for a fee or free-of-charge, as you like.
You can manufacture ,0ter1!0s systems and part kits for others. You can also
chose to make various other things that the world needs in this field such as
ready-made charged water, maintenance of systems, installation services, as well
as many other ways to use this technology in business.
You can promote ,0ter1!0s DVD's and many other products by becoming an
affiliate, and earn WITHOUT HAVING TO MANUFACTURE OR DELIVER ANYTHING!
You can help the MOVEMENT by contributing in various ways to our ACTIVISM -
visit www.Water4Gas.com to see what's cooking and what's needed today.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR PARTICIPATION AND SUPPORT!!!
KCheGk out ,0ter1!0s&Gom
0nd disGo2er money-m0king
3rogr0ms 0nd o33ortunities&L
Ozzie Freedom
Founder, ,0ter1!0s
Water4Gas Book 1-B 173
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 54 CH'PT" 54
!)OSS'Y !)OSS'Y
-(IT CO(+"T" -(IT CO(+"T"
Miles to kilometers? Grams? Ounces? Would you like a SIMPLE
conversion tool that does not need to be purchased or installed? Visit
the simple converter
www.flowmeterdirectory.com/flowmeter_unit_converter/index.htm
or www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter
or the very extensive collection of converters at
www.unitconversion.org
HO, #O YO- #"FI(" @,'T"1!'S@B HO, #O YO- #"FI(" @,'T"1!'S@B
The term ",0ter1!0s has evolved through the years. It started in 2006 as my
trademark for my website, promoting Bill Lang's experimental kits, and my ,0ter1!0s
DIY books. During 2006-2007, the term ,0ter1!0s used to describe low-cost DIY
technology to produce hydrogen on demand. In the public's mind, for the most part,
,0ter1!0s was the home-made glass jar Electrolyzer and nothing else. But that was a
very limited view as can be seen now from my books and DVD's.
The official definition from those early days used to say: Q,0ter1!0s: A combined
technology to convert water to energy. Consists of an Electrolyzer (or several
Electrolyzer cells) installed on board a vehicle or any other ICE [internal combstion
engine!" #ls a set of fel economy enhancers" fel additives and other techni$es.%
From the start, and today too, the purpose of this do-it-yourself (DIY) tech has been
only to be an eye opener - to educate the general public, that was once unfamiliar with
Hydrogen-on-demand (HOD) or any doable "water-fuel technology - that it CAN be
done by the common man, anywhere in the world.
Being sim3le and 0CCord0/le and e0sy to re3liG0te* I intended this tech to open the
doors for the big guys - the higher and more expensive HOD technology and products -
and therefore I insisted that the DIY tech should be positioned as a door opener and not
as a replacement or a rival technology or product. DIY cannot be everything for
everybody, because not everybody wants or is able to make technical things by herself
or himself, not to mention installation, mileage tuning, etc.
Late 2007 and all during 2008, the term ,0ter1!0s caught on and became a
household name for anything from "water car, an obscure term in itself, to all sorts of
versions of HOD systems, books, videos and plans. Some folks started naming age-old
technologies such as Dennis Klein's by the name ,0ter1!0s... Much like the trademark
Xerox (trademark of Xerox corporation) has become a term for all photocopy
machines and processes, ,0ter1!0s became the most common term for water fuel.
Water4Gas Book 1-B 174
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Nowadays, since ,0ter1!0s has expanded its scope into representing and actively
supporting the entire HOD industry, and since everybody's invited to ride the wave, it
would be more appropriate to define ,0ter1!0s as any technology to produce fuel - or
fuel assistance - from water. Some portions of the technology are not public domain and
are protected by Patents and other methods of profit protection, yet the industry as a
whole deserves support for the sake of the economy and the planet.
Therefore, the term ,0ter1!0s, now in 0Gtu0l C0Gt describes all sorts
of Hydrogen-On-Demand or Water-Fuel technology, products and related
services such as HOD installations and mileage tuning.
#"FI(ITIO(S OF I%POT'(T %"T')S #"FI(ITIO(S OF I%POT'(T %"T')S
Tit0nium* (io/ium (commonly known as columbium), Pl0tinum: precious metallic
elements used for many purposes. In our interest, these metals are useful for creating
highly durable anodes. In the proper structures and combinations, anodes made with
these elements will endure electrolysis for many years. Read more about these metals.
Maybe it's due of its price or something else, but we do not use Tantalum although it's
also highly resistive to corrosion, too.
Pl0tinized (io/ium DIiresE: These are actually Copper wires, covered with a thick
layer (almost 20% of the diameter) of Niobium and then plated again with a thin layer
(less than 1% of the diameter) of Platinum on the outside.
Steel: An alloy (combination of metals and/or minerals) which contains iron as the main
constituent, with carbon (and other materials depending on the specific formula) added
for strength, flexibility, etc.
St0inless Steel: Steel containing chromium to make it resistant to corrosion. It has
many "grades", with each such grade actually constituting a formula of different
additives, aimed at different applications.
6>5;6>1: Grade of stainless steel. Strong and durable under water.
61:): Grade of stainless steel. A bit softer than the 302/304 grade, due to lower carbon
contents, yet even more dur0/le under I0ter during eleGtrolysis for the very same
reason. We use 316L to prevent fast oxidation of the Electrolyzer's electrodes, caused by
the oxygen product of the electrolysis process.
#"FI(ITIO(S BY 'BC #"FI(ITIO(S BY 'BC
:-P0Gk: A unique Multi-Cell ,0ter1!0s system, that became popular especially
between truckers. See definition of Multi-Cell.
'C: Alternating current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) which alternates
cyclically between positive and negative in polarity.
'Getone: A highly flammable, colorless solvent. Also known as propanone, dimethyl
ketone, and other names. It is readily soluble in water, ethanol, ether, etc., and itself
serves as an important solvent (actually the strongest consumer-grade solvent available
to us). Its most familiar household use is as the active ingredient in nail polish remover.
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Also used to make plastic, fibers, drugs and other chemicals. Pure Acetone used to be
considered a major fuel saving additive, however recently we've found that its side
effects drive most experimenters to steer away from Acetone as a fuel additive. Use
Xylene instead!
'm3ere D0m3E: A measure for electrical flow. How many electrical particles flowing in a
conductor (wire, resistor, etc) per unit of time.
'nGhor: So many readers have asked what this mysterious "anchor" was. To my
amazement, they were telling me that the guys in the hardware store didn't know... Well
it's so simple that it sounds stupid. An anchor is one of those pieces of plastic that you
stick into a hole in the wall to hold a screw. That's all. I found it cheap and useful as a
diffuser. Now a diffuser, in simple words, is just like that aquarium stone that makes lots
of bubbles out of the air hose. The anchor, if you chop its thin edge (about 1/3 off) does
that too. Not tiny bubbles, but it does the job. Alternatively replace the 'anchor' with any
diffuser you can put your hands on: an irrigation tip of some sort, an aquarium stone,
etc.
'node: The positive-charged pole (wire or plate) in an Electrolyzer or battery. The
electrode with the positive voltage. In an Electrolyzer, this is where the oxygen is being
produced.
'tom: Once thought to be the smallest part of an element or substance. Today we know
it's not so - it is made of "sub-atomic particles" such as electrons - that can probably be
broken down further.
'tomize: Making liquid or substance into a mist.
B0king Sod0: The household name for Sodium Bicarbonate. A popular catalyst for
Electrolyzers. Non toxic (used in food, for dental health, etc.) and is a user friendly
alternative to other catalysts. Note: the only "baking soda" suitable for electrolysis is
PURE SODIUM BICARBONATE. No sugar or leavening stuff please.
Bio Cuel or BioCuel: Fuel (for transportation, in our case) made from "biomass" -
biological sources such as corn or wood that have completed their life cycle;
environment friendly. Biofuel could be liquid, gas or solid.
BloI /y Dg0sE: Gases that skip past the piston rings in an engine; normally routed
back into the intake via the PCV valve.
BroIn@s !0s: A mixture of hydrogen and oxygen. The product of the Electrolyzer.
Named after Prof. Yull Brown but also goes by many other names: Rhodes Gas, after it
earlier researcher, Dr. William A. Rhodes; also called HHO (Hydrogen-Hydrogen-
Oxygen), hydroxy, oxy-hydrogen, green gas, di-hydroxy, watergas or water gas,
WaterFuel or water fuel, etc.
In Korea they call it "Brown Gas - Korea by the way has very good technology of HHO
generators for industry. Brown's Gas is great not only for supplemental fuel for engines,
but also good for cutting metal, soldering, brazing (joining metals at high temperatures),
as well as the welding of various metals inexpensively (compared to the commonly used
welding with acetylene).
When separating water into its Brown's Gas state, each Gallon of water expands into
gigantic proportions - 1,860 Gallons of highly combustible gas! When ignited (by spark,
flame or compression), Brown's Gas implodes. An implosion of that amount would result
is the release of 1,859 parts of vacuum energy (imagine the energy released by
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combusting 1,859 gallons of highly inflammable gas) PLUS one part reverted back to 1
gallon of water. In other words, 99.95% of Brown's Gas turns into energy upon ignition.
Bu//ler: A safety-enhancing device (or part of a device) to
bubble air through water in an Electrolyzer. It could be a stand-
alone device, however in our DIY Electrolyzer and also in our
Vaporizer, the bubbler is built-in so no external bubbler is
necessary.
Bungee: Type of stretchy cord with anchors at each end, used
for tying or stabilizing objects.
C0r/: Carburetor.
C0t0lyst: A material used to induce or enhance the chemical reaction between other
materials without being changed in the process.
C0thode: The negative-charged pole (wire, plate) in an Electrolyzer or battery. The
electrode with the negative voltage. In an Electrolyzer, this is where the hydrogen is
being produced.
Cell Dor "leGtrolyzer GellE: Defined as one unit in an electrolysis system (a series of
individual cells). By a certain arrangement of electrodes (when plates are used), a single
device can have several cells. In ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzers where electrodes are spiraled
to save energy, each device (one jar) would constitute one cell.
CheGk +0l2e: A device that allows flow of gas or liquid in one direction only, usually
through a hose or piping system. It closes automatically when the flow stops or is
reversed.
C(!: Compressed Natural Gas (Methane).
Current: (in electricity) the movement of electrons through a conductor. Measured in
Amperes. If for instance the conductor is copper, "electrons" are those particles of the
copper atoms, which are leaving their place and moving along between other atoms in
the copper.
#14: Refers to document D17.pdf written by
Patrick Kelly titled "Dealing with the Vehicle
Computer". The document is available on the
Internet (search Google for "Dealing with the
Vehicle Computer" WITH the quote marks). It
tells you how to build this EFIE alternative,
called D17 for lack of a better name.
deC&: definition.
#C: Direct current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) which does not
alternate in polarity, in other words it keeps
its positive and negative; and is also
somewhat "stable", in other words it doesn't
pulse. Even if it changes all the time, it could
still be called DC if it has those
characteristics.
#"%S": Dual-Edge MAP Sensor Enhancer.
A dual-knob device to adjust the air-to-fuel
ratio in the mixture. Refer to DVD 3 for
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building it, and DVD 6 for tuning. Can be obtained though our online catalog at
www.water4gas.com
#istilled I0ter: Water that has been "purified" of its contaminants, acids and minerals
such as salt. Rain water and filtered water are not distilled water!!!
#IY: Do It Yourself.
#P#T: Double Pole, Double Throw. Switch type that can switch two circuits separately
(that's the "double pole"), and is capable of making an electrical connection in each of
its "throws" (sides of its motion).
"C-: 'Engine Control Unit' or 'Electronic Control Unit'. Sometimes called 'Powertrain
Control Module' (PCM). Your car's computer. It's the heart of the engine management
system in a modern car, collecting many inputs from sensors around the car and
controlling all functions of the engine such as fuel injection and heat management.
"CCiGienGy: The ratio of total output power to input power expressed as a percentage. A
numerical expression of the ratio between waste and actual work done. For example a
low-efficiency car engine uses most of its input to produce heat, noise and vibration,
rather than forward motion.
"FI: Electronic Fuel Injection. The modern science of wasting gasoline.
"FI": Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer, a device to
correct the stoichiometric level programmed into a car in
order to accommodate WaterFuel technology.
Manufactured by Eagle Research, FuelSaver-MPG and
others, and can be obtained though our online catalog at
www.water4gas.com
"leGtrode: A conductor (such as metal wire or plate) which dips into an electrolyte and
allows the current (electrons) to flow to and from the electrolyte.
"leGtrolysis: When a direct current is passed through a liquid which contains ions (an
electrolyte), chemical changes occur at the two electrodes; usually a separation of
oxygen from hydrogen or other substances it is chemically bonded with. In our case the
process of splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen.
"leGtrolyte: A solution of G0t0lyst (see definition) in I0ter in an Electrolyzer. We
sometimes refer to the G0t0lyst as eleGtrolyte. That's a common mistake - the
G0t0lyst in our case would be the Sodium Bicarbonate ("baking
soda") and the eleGtrolyte would be the solution, or the mixture
of Sodium Bicarbonate and water.
"leGtrolyzer: Water Fuel Cell (WFC). A device or machine that
splits water into hydrogen and oxygen thus producing Brown's
Gas or HHO. Common misnomers are 'hydrogen generator' and
'fuel cell'. Sometimes called 'cell', as in 'Joe cell'. Can be obtained
though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com
"leGtrolyzer Gell: A single cell in an Electrolyzer or part of Multi-
Cell system: an anode and a cathode immersed in an electrolyte.
An Electrolyzer can have one cell or many. Also see 'cell'. Can be
obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com
"missions: Let's not go into science formulas here. I'll give you
a very simple definition: If it stinks - it's emissions. Harmful
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emissions. There are emissions that are so called "odorless", but that is a misleading
concept because the body senses it one way or another. Yes, we have become numb to
harmful, very hostile emissions. But see, a hungry yet healthy cat will not touch a
spoiled fish, even if you can't smell anything "fishy". Old-school chefs will give a piece of
the day's fish to the house cat. If the cat sniffs it but won't touch it, the fish goes to the
garbage.
Now if you would thoroughly cleanse your body and move to a very clean village up the
mountains for a while, immediately after your return (for possibly a short while before
you become numb again) you'll be able to sniff all those "odorless" harmful emissions!
Standards of government-permissible emissions are way too high health-wise, they are
hostile to life and we should not agree with those anymore!
"nergy: The capacity to do mechanical (such as motion) or electrical work (such as light
or sound).
"th0nol: One of the reasons you've been losing mileage in recent years. Also known as
ethyl alcohol, drinking alcohol or grain alcohol; it is a flammable, colorless, slightly toxic
chemical compound. Produced from edi/le Gro3s such as corn/sugar/maize, it is now
used as a fuel additive enforced on drivers across the USA (10% blends), UK (5%?),
Brazil (25%!), Sweden and others. With only 5;6 oC the energy oC g0soline, it
requires MORE petroleum import for every gallon of ethanol we use.
"HothermiG: (of chemical reaction or compound) Releasing energy, usually in the form
of HEAT. The word means "outside heating".
F": Fuel Economy.
FIP: Female Iron Pipe. For the fuel heater we use brass, not iron. Yet the only term to
describe female side is FIP. It will always be marked on the product, so pay attention
when ordering or buying in the hardware store.
Free energy: Energy you did not have to pay for. It's a common concept between
conventional scientists and "energy experts" that free energy is physically impossible.
They are right - from their point of view - however that viewpoint has a major flaw. See,
if a paid-for instrument or process, or just a change of usage to an existing instrument,
brings you energy or extra energy you don't have to pay for, then IN THE BOTTOM LINE
(in other words 0Cter your Gosts h02e /een 30id Cor) what you're getting now can
surely be considered free energy.
All "free energy methods and devices are based on this same basic principle - of
becoming somewhat more efficient in extracting energy out of natural sources. Solar
energy is one good example: you pay for the solar device (hopefully not an arm and a
leg) and from that point on the sun gives you (not free yet) energy; the moment the
solar device has finished paying for itself, it starts to produce TRULY "FREE ENERGY.
Per this definition, simply because you don't have top pay for it from that point in time.
Get it? Another example is ,0ter1!0s technology - our "free energy comes simply
and directly from REDUCTION OF WASTE in our poorly-designed engines. Since we have
oceans of water, any energy or energy savings derived CHEAPLY from water is
considered "free, economically speaking. If you have been conditioned to believe that
free energy is not possible, change your thinking about it and you'll see m0ny instances
and opportunities of free energy. And, er, by the way, don't forget to tell your professor
to have another look...
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Fuel: Any substance (liquid, solid or gas) that releases its stored heat energy and turns
it into actual heat and motion energy, when treated in a certain way such as by burning
or by combustion in an engine. When the fuel is burned it is destroyed and leaves us
with problematic pollutants. In this regard (harmful by-products of fuel burning), water
is not "fuel" because when "burned" it reverts back to water vapor and oxygen that
feeds back into the atmosphere.
Fuel Gell: A device which produces electricity by using fuel (such as hydrogen) and a
chemical which reacts with it at two electrical terminals, thus producing electric energy
that can be used to drive a car or do other useful work. Calling an Electrolyzer "fuel cell"
(or HHO fuel cell, etc.) is obviously a misnomer - an Electrolyzer inputs electricity and
(in our use) outputs hydrogen, while a fuel cell normally takes in hydrogen and out
comes electricity! Those are totally separate technologies. However, the public itself is a
common and undeniable source of new words, so if so many people call an Electrolyzer
"fuel cell", at a certain point you stop correcting them and it becomes a new term.
Where does it stand now, nearing 2010? I am not sure, time will tell. Many fuel cell
designs may be obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com
Fuel eCCiGienGy: Defined by the amount of work (how much motion, in the case of cars,
or how many hours of operation for a lawnmower or generator) can be obtained for the
amount of fuel we put in. Commonly called 'Fuel Economy' and measured by miles per
gallon or kilometers per litre.
Fuel He0ter: A device to safely heat up the
fuel, using electrical power or better yet re-
circulated heat from the engine. Reduces
surface tension of the liquid fuel, thus causing
finer air/fuel mixture droplets, resulting in
better and fuller combustion of that mixture.
Affordable Fuel Heaters can be obtained
though our online catalog at
www.water4gas.com
!ener0tor: A device that generates some sort of mechanical or electrical energy, or
generates a substance (as in "hydrogen generator"). When mentioned in ,0ter1!0s
literature, we refer to stationary engines that are used to convert liquid fuel to other
types of energy, usually electricity. Sometimes called 'Genset'.
!oo3N: A brand name, short for Amazing GOOP by Eclectic Products, inc. Very useful
and popular glue, that is highly durable under high temperature (150-160 F) and under
water.
!P-4N: An advanced fuel additive for 2-stroke engines, by Torco Racing Fuels, Inc.
!PH: Gallons Per Hour.
!reen !0s: Another name for Brown's Gas.
!ST: !as Saving Technique for vehicles using WATER or Hydrogen-On-Demand. The
term has been coined by Ozzie Freedom to describe a set of methods, devices and
additives all working together to maximize your fuel economy, while also minimizing
harmful emissions resulting from poor engine design and inefficient use.
HHO: Hydrogen+Hydrogen+Oxygen. The product of splitting water (H2O) into its
components. Common name for Brown's Gas.
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HO#: Hydrogen On Demand. A system to generate hydrogen on board the
vehicle/generator only Ihen the engine is running without storing any of it. It's
called HOD whether it's a DIY or purchased from a developer - many system designs
offered at our online catalog www.water4gas.com
Hydrogen: The lightest and most abundant element. A gaseous diatomic element (in
simple words: gas that always has particles in pairs). The atom consists of one proton
and one electron.
HydroHy: Another name for Brown's Gas.
IC": Internal Combustion Engine. The most common type of engine in cars, trucks,
boats, motorcycles, tractors, light airplanes, generators and lawn mowers for the past
200 years.
Poe Cell: Type of Electrolyzer constructed of a series stainless steel tubing, one inside
the other. Powerful yet relatively expensive and hard to replicate. Some people such as
Bill Williams claimed to have run a vehicle exclusively on a Joe cell.
KnoGking: Also called "pinging" - banging noise in the engine, caused by improper
combustion.
k,h: Kilowatt hour(s).
)e0n DmiHtureE: Less fuel and more air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with
common wisdom of modern automakers, the mixture must be 14.7 parts air to 1 part
gasoline. But with supplemental hydrogen it can be significantly leaner.
)"#: Light Emitting Diode.
%'F: Mass Air Flow. One of the inputs the ECU takes into consideration when
determining the amount of fuel to be injected into the engine.
%'P DsensorE: Manifold Air Pressure (sensor). It's part of the engine that comes with
the car! Not included in every car design, even if model 1996 or newer.
%'P Sensor "nh0nGer: An electronic device
that enhances fuel economy via the MAP
Sensor - iC the car has such a sensor. Some
folks say "MAP Sensor" when they mean MAP
Sensor Enhancer; please use proper terms.
Can be obtained though our online catalog at
www.water4gas.com
%eth0ne: Natural gas or Compressed
Natural Gas (CNG).
%IP: Male Iron Pipe. For the fuel heater we use brass, not iron. Yet the only term to
describe male side is MIP. It will always be marked on the product, so pay attention
when ordering or buying in the hardware store.
%iHture: Other than the normal English definition of 'mixture', we use this term for the
mixture of air and fuel, in a carburetor or fuel injection system of ICE.
%oleGule: Compound of two or more atoms, the smallest independent unit of chemical
compounds.
%P!: Miles Per Gallon. The most common expression of fuel economy, the higher the
better. In the metric system it would be expressed in KPL or kilometers per liter. Some
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use miles per liter, which gets confusing. Here's a simple conversion between those:
-if you have MPG and you want miles per litre - divide by 4.545
-if you have miles per litre and you want KPL - multiply by 1.601
-if you have MPG and you want KPL - divide by 2.839 (in other words 1 MPG = 0.35
KPL)
m+: milliVolts.
m) or ml: milliliter, one thousandth of a liter.
%ulti-Cell: A HOD system built from several
cells for better thermal efficiency (good
solution to thermal runaway) and higher HHO
production. Several multi-cell designs can be
obtained though our online catalog at
www.water4gas.com
(itrogen: An odorless, gaseous element that
makes up 78% of the earth's atmosphere, and
is a constituent of all living tissue. It is almost
inert (limited in ability to react chemically) in
its gaseous form.
(OH: Gases consisting of one molecule of nitrogen and varying numbers of oxygen
molecules. Nitrogen oxides are produced in the emissions of vehicle exhausts and from
power stations. In the atmosphere, nitrogen oxides can contribute to formation of
photochemical ozone (smog), can impair visibility, and have health consequences; they
are thus considered pollutants. [EPA]
O5: Oxygen.
OGt0ne r0ting: A number representing the ability of gasoline to control pre-detonation,
in other words its anti-knock capability; not necessarily a better fuel for a certain job.
Odometer: Mileage or kilometer gauge.
On /o0rd: Mounted on (or in) a vehicle.
On-Bo0rd #i0gnostiGs, or OB#: A generic term referring to a vehicle's self-diagnostic
and reporting capability. OBD systems give the vehicle owner or a repair technician
access to state of health information for various vehicle sub-systems. We refer to it as a
generic term for the entire "program" running the vehicle, including its usage of energy
in various conditions. While there are differences between vehicles, OBD-I generally
refers to pre-1996 vehicles and the more advanced (and more pervasive) system OBD-II
refers to models 1996 and newer. In some newer models OBD-II is replaced or
supplemented with what's called CAN (Controller Area Network) where on board devices
can talk to each other without going through the ECU.
Oz or OunGe: An imperial (non-metric) measuring unit. It is used both for volume and
(but a different unit!!!) for mass or weight. Which gets very confusing sometimes. When
we speak of ounces we're usually talking about liquid volume. When you use the unit
converters (see top of glossary) to convert ounces to grams or liters, be sure to use the
proper setting for your calculations - mass (weight) or volume.
OHygen: A non-metallic gaseous element that makes up 21% of the atmosphere.
OHygen sensor or O5 sensor: An electronic device that measures the proportion of
oxygen (O2) in the gas or liquid being analyzed. Used in science labs. In modern
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vehicles it is a small sensor inserted into the exhaust system to measure the
concentration of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas to allow the ECU to control the
efficiency of the combustion process in the engine. A "side effect" of oxygen sensors is
that they can disrupt fuel-saving technologies that create a lean fuel-air mixture. If the
engine burns too lean due to any modifications (such as adding oxygen from an
Electrolyzer), the sensor will detect the mixture as being too lean, and the engine
computer will adjust the injector pulse duration, so that the air-fuel mixture continues to
stay within the stoichiometric (see definition) ratio of 14.7:1 on a typical vehicle.
There are ways that the oxygen sensor can be overcome. Sometimes, a device can be
inserted inline with the sensor, which tricks the engine computer into thinking the
mixture is stoichiometric, when actually it is either rich, or lean, and therefore, this
modification will not be automatically corrected by the oxygen sensor. [source:
Wikipedia.org]
OHyhydrogen or oHy-hydrogen: Another name for Brown's Gas.
PC+: Positive Crankcase Ventilation, a system using a PCV valve to evacuate "blow by
gases" and moisture from the crankcase of an internal combustion engine. Well, that's
the official definition anyway... In fact, blow by gases are a whole lot of junk: burnt and
un-burnt fuel and oil escaping from the cylinder, past the piston rings (much more if you
have worn-out rings) during a piston's power stroke, and into the crankcase. These by-
products of combustion form acid and sludge in the crankcase and cause smoke. And,
naturally, they do not help mileage either when the PCV system "re-circulates" this junk
back into the intake manifold - the breathing part of the engine. The air entering the
engine should NOT have sludge added to it! It must breathe clean air in order to work
properly. And this is where the PCV Enhancer comes into the picture.
PC+ +0l2e: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve, a one-way valve that ensures
continual re-circulates junk from a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase.
More details in PCV.
PC+ "nh0nGer: A device to clean the blow-by gases (see PCV) so
they do not re-enter the engine. Can be obtained though our online
catalog at www.water4gas.com
Petrol: A mixture of various hydrocarbons used as a fuel (in the
USA we call it 'gas').
Ping or 3inging: Also called "knocking" - banging noise in the
engine, caused by improper combustion.
Pot: Short for potentiometer - any type of a variable resistor,
whether rotary or slide. Regardless of its shape, and apart from it's
resistance that's different from one to the other, pots come in two
electrically different versions that are very important to understand. There's the non-
linear (or "logarithmic") type, which is good for audio amplifiers use. However, for the
MAP Sensor Enhancer we want the LINEAR type, which means the resistance is spread
evenly as you turn the knob.
Pot0ssium HydroHide: NaOH, lye. A common catalyst used in Electrolyzers. Quite toxic
and corrosive, has much more user friendly alternatives such as Baking Soda and
Sodium Citrate.
P,%: Pulse Width Modulator. A device that controls the amount of power delivered to
an Electrolyzer (also used for controlling electrical motors and other devices). We do it
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by changing the ratio of ON time to OFF time, thus creating an effect of reduced overall
energy, over time in general, delivered to the Electrolyzer. Another good reason to use
PWM in HHO production is to excite the electrodes many times a second, resulting in a
more efficient, less heat producing electrolysis. Can be obtained though our online
catalog at www.water4gas.com
iGh DmiHtureE: More fuel and less air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with
common wisdom of modern automakers, the mixture should be ideal at 14.7 parts air to
1 part gasoline. But with supplemental hydrogen it can be significantly leaner. Therefore
ANY number beyond the very minimum really needed can be considered "rich". I know
it's not conventional wisdom but in a decaying planet we must try to prevent ANY waste
of energy, even a drop adds up to a river.
SG0ng0uge-II: The most popular scanner between "mileage seekers" due to its ease of
use and its capability to display instant or averaged MPG, between many other codes
and vehicle conditions such as temperature. Can be obtained from the Internet or
though one of the vendors on our online catalog at www.water4gas.com
SG0nner: An electronic device, usually hand-held, that reads and sometimes re-
programs vehicle computer error codes.
Short DGirGuitE: Electricity taking a "shortcut" due to a (greatly) reduced resistance
than the proper path, resulting in very high (and uncontrolled) electrical current. Usually
ends up in fire or severe damage.
Sodium BiG0r/on0te: Baking Soda, in slang. A popular catalyst for Electrolyzers. Non
toxic (used in food, for dental health, etc.) and is a user friendly alternative to other
catalysts.
Sodium Citr0te: An optional catalyst for Electrolyzers. Non toxic (used as food
ingredient in ice cream, cream cheese, etc) and is a user friendly alternative to other
catalysts. Not as cheap as Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) but keeps the Electrolyzer
cleaner.
Sodium HydroHide: NaOH, known as lye or caustic soda. A common catalyst used in
Electrolyzers. Quite toxic and corrosive, has much more user friendly alternatives such
as Baking Soda and Sodium Citrate.
SP#T: Single Pole, Double Throw. Switch type that can switch one circuit (hence "single
pole"), and is capable of making an electrical connection in each of its "throws" (sides of
its motion).
S3ir0l: a coiled shape, like the thread of a screw or like a coil spring. The difference
between 'coil' and 'spiral' is that a coil can be winding upon itself, but a spiral is spread
out through space. When an electric current is flowing in a spiral conductor (wire), it
creates a magnetic vortex (rapidly spinning flow, like a whirlpool).
StoiGhiometriG: Describing a (fuel/air) mixture of "proper" proportions. According to
automotive conventional wisdom it should be 14.7:1 but in actual fact these are
arbitrary numbers. A car can drive just as nicely on 25:1. In fact if you were to design it
in a slightly different way (ignition timing and valve timing are major players in this
game), then its so-called "Stoichiometric" balance would now be 25:1 (for example).
Therm0l un0I0y: Might happen in an Electrolyzers, refers to a situation where an
increase in temperature changes the conditions in a way that causes a further increase
in temperature leading to a destructive result.
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ToIer: A common name for the ,0ter1!0s Electrolyzer core, used for holding the
wire electrodes in place. Can be obtained though our online catalog at
www.water4gas.com
Tuner: Auto mechanic that specializes in tuning vehicles and engines for best
performance, or maximal fuel economy, or both.
+'C: Volts Alternating Current.
+03oriz0tion: The physical change of going from a solid or a liquid into
a gaseous state.
+03orizer: A device that adds water vapor to the air/fuel mixture of a
vehicle's engine in order to boost its power, improve combustion (and in
many cases also fuel economy) and reduce harmful emissions. Can be
obtained though our online catalog at www.water4gas.com or you can do
it yourself for under $5.
+#C: Volts Direct Current.
+olt0ge: Measure of electrical tension or "pressure. The measurement unit is +olt*
named after the Italian physicist Count Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta
(1745-1827).
+olt0ge oCCset: Voltage added to the output signal of the oxygen sensor. The combined
signal (with the offset) is fed back to the ECU.
,0ter: An oxide (chemical bond with oxygen) of
hydrogen. Very deep oceans, as well as many
seas, lakes and glaciers, cover 71.11% of the
Earth's surface, making water one of the most
abundant compounds on Earth.
How much do we have? Some calculations
showed that we have not less than a staggering
65:*>>>*>>>*>>>*>>>*>>>*>>> g0llons of
water or in other words 326 million trillion gallons
- 1,260,000,000,000,000,000,000 liters - right
here on our little planet. If we could make the
dream of turning water into energy a common reality, we would have all the energy we
need for millions of years! I believe we can do this with EXISTING technology - read
,0ter1!0s Book 6 "Water-Fuel DREAM or SCIENCE? and see what the scientists say.
In its pure state such as distilled water - H2O molecule shown in the diagram - water
does not conduct electricity. But with a relatively small amount of electricity and a little
help from a catalyst, water can be be electrolyzed (hence separated) into its hydrogen
and oxygen components.
Water is an amazing substance that absorbs and releases energy in very interesting
ways, and has at least FOUR states - but only the first three are taught in our schools,
namely liquid which we simply call KI0ter*L solid which we call KiGe*L and a gaseous
state which is I0ter 203or or ste0m& What is not normally realized is that water has a
very significant forth state called Brown's Gas (see definition), named after its famous
researcher Professor Yull Brown.
,0ter !0s* ,0terg0s* ,0terFuel or ,0ter-Fuel: Usually these are more names for
Brown's Gas. However, I see it in the broader view of ANY method of using water to
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Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
enhance fuel or AS FUEL. Read ,0ter1!0s Book 6 "Water-Fuel DREAM or SCIENCE?
for the eye-opening details.
,0tt-hour: a unit of work. A simple multiplication of the number of Watt (which
expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time) by the number of hours that
this number of Watts is applied. Or, in the case of a battery, how many hours can the
battery provide those Watts before it's depleted.
,0tt(s): A measurement unit of electrical power; not potential power (voltage) but
actual work done. Expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time. To find the
"wattage" or in a simple word electrical Power, multiply Volts by Amps. Named after
Scottish engineer and inventor James Watt (1736-1819).
,FC or ,0ter Fuel Cell: Common name for Electrolyzer. Can be obtained though our
online catalog at www.water4gas.com
Aylene: Most will say it is a paint thinner or cleaner, and this is where you would
normally find it - on the shelf of your paint department or paint store. But FireNet
International (UK) says it is actually part of gasoline: %&imethylbenzene. An aromatic
com#ond having the formla C'()(C(*)+. ,ylene is a ma-or com#onent of gasoline.%
Yull BroIn: Professor Yull Brown is famous for researching, experimenting and
patenting his knowledge on what we now call Brown's Gas. Born 1922 in Bulgaria as Ilya
Velbov. Trained as electrical engineer, Brown moved to Australia in 1958 and worked as
a laboratory technician. Later in July 1973 (then also in 1974) he filed for his first
electrolysis patents in Australia, 7 years after William A. Rhodes filed for his patents on
the subject of water electrolysis (US Patent # 3,262,872, July 1966, and another one in
1967).
See Australian Patent # 4159/73 from 1973, and US Patent # 4,014,777 from March
29, 1977. More details in ,0ter1!0s Book 6 "Water-Fuel DREAM or SCIENCE?
Yull Brown spent many years demonstrating the viability of his
technology and convincing others of its commercial value: how to use
Brown's Gas for welding, to reduce nuclear and toxic waste to
harmless carbon, to fuel a vehicle and more.
Brown died at Westmead Hospital in Auburn, Australia, on May 22,
1998, with his loved ones at his side.
At the time of writing, after years of experimenting myself with HHO
gas, I'm still not sure if HHO and Brown's Gas are one and the same, however it is
certain that HHO gas and Brown's gas are in the public's mind the best memorial to Yull
Brown's tremendous work.
Recommended reading - for your further research - and for better understanding of
the terms, Patents and science associated with ,0ter1!0s technology:
Book : K,0ter-Fuel #"'% or SCI"(C"BL - get free from www.water4gas.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 186
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
CH'PT" 57 CH'PT" 57
-S"F-) "SO-C"S -S"F-) "SO-C"S
(""# +"HIC)"-SP"CIFIC I(FO%'TIO(B (""# +"HIC)"-SP"CIFIC I(FO%'TIO(B
In case you fix or at least diagnose the vehicle yourself, you may find this resource very
useful. For one low fee, ALLDATA gives you all you need:
DETAILED WIRING DIAGRAMS,
Factory Diagnostic Flow Charts,
Factory Repair Procedures,
Diagrams with Part Numbers,
Trouble Codes,
Research Tools and much more,
Updated and original - better and deeper information than a printed manual!
www.water4gas.com/1/vehicledata.htm
"'#"S H")PI(! "'#"S "'#"S H")PI(! "'#"S
TeGh Su33ort
The website www.Water4Gas.com has the latest contact and instructions in the
Support/Contact section. The principle of tech support as it outlines at the time of
writing (mid 2009) is that you can get help from other readers WHO HAVE ALREADY
HAD SUCCESS AND EXPERIENCE, and as you grow and get more experience you may
choose to help others too.
,0ter1!0s Forums D#isGussion !rou3sE 0nd )oG0l Communities
Exchange notes with other experimenters with your vehicle type, in your area or
worldwide!
Find our new discussion/help forums at www.Water4Gas.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 187
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
!"T ')%OST-)I+" T'I(I(! FO% O$$I" F""#O% !"T ')%OST-)I+" T'I(I(! FO% O$$I" F""#O%
Water4GasDVD.com (an independent company
located in Los Angeles) now offers the new
10-disc DVD Set that follows
the materials of this book.
With this ,0ter1!0s DVD Set you will be able to sit in the comfort of your living room
and WATCH OZZIE FREEDOM as he shows you every little detail. You will be able to
FO))O, O$$I"@S H'(#S '(# TOO)S as he builds every part of the simple system
right before your eyes. Every little part is shown and specified. It is permissible and
recommended to teach school classes, LOCAL audiences (not TV/web broadcast) and
your local mechanics with this set. Show it to your politicians, journalists and opinion
leaders.
The new ,0ter1!0s set includes seven full-length DVD's (80-90minutes each), jam-
packed with information and how-to's. With three extra CD's for worldwide parts list,
troubleshooting and more, there is a total of 10 discs in the set.

Ships internationally. Order the complete set from www.Water4GasDVD.com
Water4Gas Book 1-B 188
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
THIS BOOK IS COPYI!HT"# TO O$$I" F""#O%&
THIS BOOK %'Y (OT B" SO)#* !I+"( ','Y O #ISTIB-T"# I( '(Y
,'Y* SH'P" O FO%... S"(# YO- FI"(#S TO !"T TH"I O,( COPY
FO% WATER4GAS.COM - TH'(K YO-.
Dear Reader,
Although this /ook is copyrighted, ,0ter1!0s technology is F"" TO -S" for
all your private AND commercial uses (third party products, trademarks and
logos that may be mentioned or linked from this book, are proprietary to their
respective companies).
The distribution of this book was made possible thanks to generous sponsorships
by the following:
The author, Ozzie Freedom www.OzzieFreedom.com
The DVD seller www.Water4GasDVD.com
-0nd 0/o2e 0ll-
www.topNRG.com/sponsor
(see ad next page)
Water4Gas Book 1-B 189
Water4Gas.com Copyright 2006-2010 Ozzie Freedom
Water4Gas Book 1-B 190

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