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Whats So Special
about Farmstead Cheese?
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Cheese, both on board the ships and in the new settlements, was simply the best
way to preserve excess milk and extend the availability of a valuable food.
European immigrants adapted to the hardships of life in the New World while
continuing to practice the food traditions of their native cultures. Over time and
through continued waves of immigration, cheese produced in America gradually began to reflect regional influences: In the northeast part of the country, an
English influence created an early Cheddar industry; in Wisconsin, Swiss and
Danish traditions included Gouda and alpine styles; and in California and the
West, Spanish and French cultures influenced the kinds of cheeses made there,
including the development of an American original, Monterey Jack cheese. By
the mid-1800s most rural families had a milk cow or goats for dairy, meat, and
by-products. Cheese was produced on the farm or at home, and cheesemaking
was a normal part of a homemakers repertoire. The seeds of change, for all of
agriculture and eating, came with the American Industrial Revolution in the
1850s. Mechanization increased the ability of farmers to grow more feed, raise
more animals, and subsequently harvest ever-increasing quantities of milk. For
the cheesemaker, equipment could be manufactured to process larger volumes of
milk into cheese to feed a growing population.
In the 1840s a Wisconsin man named James Picket is believed to have been
the first farmer to make cheese from the milk of not only his own animals, but
a neighbors cows as well. This new concept in dairying was taken a step further
in 1851 when the first modern cheese factory was built by Jesse Williams in
Oneida, New York. Williamss factory is believed to have been the first cheese
plant to pool milk from multiple farmers and complete the entire process of
cheese
making in a commercial facility. Other factories quickly sprang up
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throughout the country. By 1880 there were 3,923 factories nationwide, with a
production volume of 216 million pounds of cheese. The family cow was on her
way out of the picture.
By the 1920s cheese production had reached 418 million pounds, with most of
this still occurring in what would be, by todays standards, small to moderate-size
facilities processing milk from only local dairies as well as their own milk. By the
1930s cows-milk cheeses similar in style to most major European cheeses were
being made at the industrial level.
The early part of the 1900s also saw the birth and infancy of what would
become the modern-day super-mega-one-stop grocery store. Previously, shopping
had been done at specialized storesthe butcher, the baker, the green grocer. But
by 1910 many stores began carrying multiple specialty foods under one roof. This
consolidation of products led to the building of ever-larger stores, the development
of chain stores, and the need for centralized distribution. The competitive drive
to promote the cheapness and value of one
supermarket over another quickly followed.
THE VELLA FAMILY
These factors all contributed to the impetus to produce cheese in greater volume and
Tom Vella founded Vella Cheese in 1931 in
Sonoma, California, with a commitment to
in the most cost-effective manner possible.
local dairymen. His creamery helped many
Americans began to compromise quality for
small dairy farms stay in business during both
pocketbook value.
the Depression and World War II. Vellas
The Great Depression of the 1930s
successful efforts extended beyond Sonoma to
brought further woes to the small producer.
southern Oregon, where he started the Rogue
While many small dairies folded under the
Creamery in the 1930s. Both the Rogue
Creamery (now owned by Cary Bryant and
economic strain, others survived, in part
David Gremmels) and Vella Cheese (owned
thanks to the formation of cooperatives, as
by Tom Vellas son, Ignazio) continue today
well as the intervention of creameries that
with a focus on local sustainability as well
refocused their production to purchase their
as on the creation of artisan cheeses that are
fluid milk from these struggling small farms
rooted in tradition.
(see sidebar).
Following on the unfortunate heels of the
Depression, World War II furthered labor and economic issues by its upheaval
of the workforce (men left farms and factories for the battlefield) and the necessary redistribution of resources and supplies to the war effort. When the conflict
finally ended, wartime technological advances transitioned to civilian-oriented
purposes. The increased technology available to manufacturing, combined with
the demand for cheaper and more modern products (often seen as superior by a
population starved for finer goods at an affordable price), spelled trouble for the
small handmade-cheese producer.
Revival
The re-emergence of the small cheesemaker began in earnest in the 1980s. As with
the decline of handmade cheese, the renaissance occurred in response to the influence of movements and trends that occurred in the twentieth century. Hippies,
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GOURMET OR FOODIE?
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Small
Medium
* East Friesian ewes producing 600 pounds of milk each per year. Assumes a 17% cheese yield.
** Alpine does producing 2,500 pounds of milk each per year. Assumes a 10% cheese yield.
*** Guernsey cows producing10,000 pounds of milk each per year. Assumes a 10% cheese yield.
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of a more rural way of living. There are also people who enter the business with
purely entrepreneurial motivationsthose for whom the growing prestige and
market potential of artisan cheese is the magnet (not unlike the motivation that
draws some to plant a vineyard or build a winery). But, for the most part, the
farmstead cheesemaker is first and foremost a herdsman. Lets take a look at some
of the most common reasons for building a farmstead creamery, along with the
assets and pitfalls that each motivation brings to the mix.
Hobby to Profession
Those who start out with a couple of dairy goats or a milk cow to feed a growing
family, or a desire to live a more self-sustaining lifestyle, often find themselves
with more milk than they know what to do with. Learning to make cheese is a
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logical progression that becomes a gratifying hobby for many. The decision to go
pro is sometimes seen as an elaboration of the hobby, when in fact it is truly a
full-fledged transformation. The change from avocation to profession brings new
dimensions that can wear out even the most passionate hobbyist.
Assets: Existing animal management skills, awareness of the rigors of
farm life, some cheesemaking skills.
Pitfalls: Often a lack of business management training, possible lack
of investment capital.
Value-Added
For many dairy people, adding a cheese facility to the dairy farm provides a valueadded product that increases the prospects for survival of the farm. The growing popularity and public perception of cheese is helping retain and bring back
generations of family that might not have previously stayed on the farm.
Assets: Existing animal management skills, awareness of the rigors of
farm life, existing business structure, existing infrastructure (buildings, systems, etc.).
Pitfalls: Possible lack of cheesemaking skills and a lack of time to
leave the farm for training.
The Entrepreneur
For investors building an artisan cheese business, the need for a reliable source
of the highest-quality milk often leads them to the farmstead solution. The size
and scale of these operations is medium to large. Usually both herd managers and
cheesemakers are employed to handle these parts of the operation.
Assets: Financial resources, business skills.
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Pitfalls: Lack of animal management expertise. (Cheesemaking experience, I believe, is more readily learned than animal husbandry
educational opportunities and professional expertise are easier to find
than an in-depth animal husbandry education.)
The Hybrid
Many farmstead cheesemakers are a mixture of some or all of the above motivations. People entering the industry with a varied background and multiple inspirations often bring a mix of qualifications
that promote success in ways that cannot be
TEN QUESTIONS TO
anticipated by simply analyzing their credenTEST YOUR SUITABILITY
tials. There is no way to accurately categorize
this type of person, but it is still important
1. Do you like to get up earlyevery day
for them to attempt to analyze their skill
of the year and for many years to come?
set and job suitability based on information
2. Do you mind working late into the
eveningand then getting up early the
gained while researching the industry.
next day?
3. Do you mind working hard between
getting up early and going to bed late?
4. Does your spouse or partner also enjoy
these hours?
5. Do you have a good head for business?
6. Do you have an artistic or creative flair?
7. Can you be satisfied with repetitive labor
and a lot of dishwashing?
8. Do you have a great love for working with
animals, no matter how exhausted you are?
9. Can you deal well with constantly changing challenges and problems, including
animal deaths, equipment failure, product
loss, possible lawsuits and product recalls,
and rising insurance and power costs?
10. Do you mind working for below minimum wage for several years, or do you
have an independent source of income to
help pay bills?
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An artistically designed exterior helps make Pholia Farms Hillis Peak an eye-catching cheese.
farmstead cheesemaker, you are choosing not just a job, but a way of life. If you
have a spouse or partner, you will need to consider very carefully whether or not
this way of life will be fulfilling for both of you, together.
How about a good head for business? When the hobby farmer-cheesemaker turns
pro, everything changes. In reality you are now operating two businessesa dairy
farm and a cheese business. Any inefficiency in either aspect will likely evolve into
a liability, both financially and, in the end, emotionally. If you know you will
not be able to develop a sound business plan, maintain accurate and up-to-date
financial books, complete invoices, and follow up on orders and billingand you
still want to go into the businessthen consider taking classes, or even hiring a
bookkeeper and office manager.
Why would I need to be creative or artistic? Remember there is art in artisan. Not only will being creative give you an edge in producing visually appealing products, but it will help with designing packaging, labels, and promotional
materials. As the number of producers grows and the volume of farmstead cheeses
increases, it will be the little things, such as irresistible packaging and mouthwa-
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TEN CHARACTERISTICS
THAT MAKE FOR A GREAT
FARMSTEAD CHEESEMAKER
1. Organizational skills
2. High energy level
3. Personal drive
4. Ability to delay gratification
5. Patience
6. Kindness
7. Persistence
8. Creativity
9. Work ethic
10. Ingenuity
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Cheesemaking class at Oregon State University. Photo by Lynn Ketchum, courtesy of Oregon State University Extension and
Experiment Station Communications.
issues that lead to lost milk, animal deaths, and culling decisions; and the possibility of liability lawsuits, product recall, and inspection violationsall these and
more bring a facet to the lifestyle that can be unduly stressful. To be successful,
you must be prepared to face these challenges without letting them overwhelm
you.
What about money? Even if your cheese sells at the high end of the price spectrum, the number of hours you will work to create that product could mean that
your average income will be somewhere below minimum wageI am not kidding.
If you do not have the investment capital to survive the first few years, or another
source of income to make ends meet, then you would be wise to reconsider starting a cheesemaking business (or any small business, for that matter). Even after
several good years, you will probably not become wealthy making cheesebut
you will have a priceless quality of life and hopefully be able to pay the bills!
Some of these questions may seem extreme, but the reality of the lifestyle of a
farmstead cheesemaker is at times very difficult and intense. If you answered yes,
even if it was a somewhat reluctant affirmative, to all of the questions in the quiz,
then you are quite likely well suited to the profession of farmstead cheesemaker.
But if you have any hesitation in embracing these conditions as a huge part of
your life, then I would encourage you to enjoy this book, tour cheese farms, eat
farmstead cheese, make your own cheese at homeas a hobbyand have a life!
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LIFELONG LEARNING
Alyce Birchenough, founder and cheesemaker
of Sweet Home Farm in Elberta, Alabama,
has been making her award-winning raw-milk
cheeses for more than twenty years. When
Alyce and her husband, Doug Wolbert, built
their small cow dairy in the mid-1980s, there
were not as many options available for learning
as there are now. Alyce found her first information through the Minnesota Farmstead Cheese
Project, an extension service project that was
designed at the time as a value-added opportunity for farmers. She also relied upon backto-the-land proponent Carla Emerys book The
Encyclopedia of Country Living (still in print and
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and communing with other cheesemakers are all viable routes for continuing
education. Keeping your knowledge expanding and your awareness of the process
growing will help to ensure the quality of your products as well as your own
personal and professional gratification.
Being a part of a growing culinary tradition is exciting! Thanks to the perseverance of a handful of Americas original artisan cheesemaking companies, the
groundbreaking forays of the cheesemaker pioneers of the artisan revival, and the
increased awareness and admiration of the life of the small farmer, it is now easier
than ever to build a thriving farmstead cheese business. As you read the following chapters, however, you will learn that it will take far more than excitement
and awareness to ensure that your cheese business brings you both financial and
personal success.
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