Energy efficient homes start

with you!

Presented by the Historic Chicago

Bungalow Association
&
Chicago Energy Consultants
Presentation Outline

• Time
• Format
• Presentation will be available online @
news.chicagoenergyconsultants.com
Why are we here?
• Chicago Climate Action Plan: a
multi-faceted program that
hopes to reduce the negative
impact our city will have on the
environment.
• Calls for a 30% reduction of
Energy use in buildings across
Chicago.
• The energy that your home and
your family uses matters
greatly to this pilot program!
Homes are complex systems!
• A safe, comfortable, healthy, durable, and
energy efficient home does not happen by
chance!
• Building science is a fairly young field, so
new information and innovations continue
to change ‘the old rules’
• Knowing how your home works is half the
battle!
How we feel comfortable

• Metabolism + Clothing level

• Air Temperature
• Mean Radiant Temperature
• Air Velocity
• Humidity
If one or more of these factors is ‘out of
bounds’, discomfort can result
How We Use Energy in our Homes
Space Heating & Cooling: 43%

• Heating Degree Days, and Cooling Degree

Days = the difference of the average daily
temperature from 65 degrees Fahrenheit
• Chicago HDD: 6493 CDD: 835
• We will need much more energy to heat
our homes than to cool them.
Space Heating & Cooling: 43%
Many factors:
• Infiltration (air leaks )
• Insulation
• Fenestration (holes in the wall- windows, doors)
• Heating and cooling systems
• Distribution systems (ducts or pipes)
• Orientation (Passive Solar)
• Temperature difference
Space Conditioning: Air Infiltration

• Air sealing is almost always the quickest return

on investment.
• Most homes are much more leaky than they
‘need’ to be, but only testing can tell for sure.
• Possible risks from an over sealed, under-vented
home: Accumulation of Radon, moisture, or
other indoor air contaminants, combustion
appliance venting issues.
Air Infiltration – In the winter
• Think of your home as a hot air balloon: warmer
air is lighter than cool air, and wants to rise
• Your ceiling, walls and floors (hopefully) stop
most of your heated air from escaping
• When some air leaves the home, it creates a
negative pressure
• Cold, heavy outside air then leaks into the
home, at the lower levels where negative
pressures are the greatest.
Space Conditioning: Air Infiltration
Air Infiltration - Ventilation
• Homes that are air sealed might require increased
mechanical or natural ventilation
• Your homes have had work performed to reduce
infiltration when possible, be sure to use kitchen and
bath vents when bathing or cooking!
• Some especially tight homes might require fans that run
constantly to pull fresh air into the home
• Use passive ventilation on pleasant days- Open
windows! Opening windows high and low in the building
will allow gravity to pull air through the building without
using any energy
Space Conditioning: Insulation

• Insulation slows down the movement of heat by

conduction and convection.
• If air is moving through insulation, it cannot do
its job!
• Small gaps or areas of missing insulation make
for big drops in performance!
• Example: 1000 SqFt ceiling insulated to R-50,
with 5 SqFt un-insulated area= R-40 overall. A
20% drop in performance from a 0.5% flaw!
Space Conditioning: Fenestration

• Windows and Doors have much lower R-values than walls. Good
windows are rated from R-3 to R-5, while walls are typically R-5 to
R-15 in most existing homes.
• Tightly closing and locking windows goes a long way to reduce
drafts
• Use curtains or shades to both block drafts from windows, as well
as to raise the radiant temperature you’ll feel inside. Coverings
should be close to windows to prevent air movement. Inside mount
cellular shades work especially well.
• In the winter, pull shades down to allow in light & heat during the
day, and close them at night to keep heat in the home
• In the Summer, keep shades (especially southern facing windows)
closed during the heat of the day, and open windows at night to
cool the home
Space Conditioning: Mechanical Systems

• Proper upkeep of heating and cooling systems is important.

• For forced air systems: change air filters every 3 months, typically
• Professional maintenance of boilers, furnaces, and A/C units is
recommended
• Use floor or ceiling fans in the summer, and wear cool clothing
• Wear your snuggie in the winter, and drop the thermostat a couple
degrees.
• Run ceiling fans in reverse in the winter, at their lowest setting. This
is especially important with high ceilings.
• Careful with humidifiers; both room units and units installed into
furnaces. Tighter homes can accumulate humidity much quicker.
Over-humidification symptoms can include: Condensation forming
on windows or walls, water pooling on window sills, discoloration or
mold growth on walls or ceilings.
Space Conditioning: Distribution Systems

For radiant systems:

• Do not obstruct radiators, they depend on air movement. Keep top,
front and sides clear of obstructions for at least 6 inches.
• Keep radiators and baseboard units clean, and free of dust.
• Radiator color matters (a little) black is best, white less so, and
silver or metallic the worst.
• Most radiator covers reduce efficiency, use them only where safety
concerns require.
• Situating a ‘reflector’ against the outside wall helps to bounce heat
back inside the home (aluminum foil taped to cardboard is a
popular, cheap DIY method). Do not allow any materials to touch
the radiator, and allow at least ¾” clearance from the radiator.
• Insulate pipes in areas where you don’t need or want heat, like in
basements and crawlspaces
Space Conditioning: Distribution Systems

For forced air systems:

• Do not obstruct vents. Avoid placing curtains or furniture over
vents.
• Be sure that air filters are changed regularly
• If possible, pull vent covers off and seal any visible gaps between
duct work and the wall/ceiling/floor, using either metal foil tape, or
siliconized caulk.
• Seal any duct leaks in areas where you don’t want to condition the
air. The best product to accomplish this is a “Duct Mastic”. Never
use Duct Tape!!!
Space Conditioning: Orientation

The direction a building is oriented can make a major difference in how

it performs.
• You can’t change orientation after you have built, but you can
change the area around your home
• Plant broadleaf trees that will grow tall to the South of the building.
These trees over time will shade the home in the summer, and
allow sunlight on the home in the winter.
• Growing ivy on exposed walls , or on a trellis over windows also
helps to reduce heat gain.
• Use or install window awnings to shade windows in the summer
time, and allow sunlight in during the winter.
Water Heating: 12%
• Set tank to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, to both save energy
and reduce scalding hazard
• Insulate exposed hot water pipes
• Best bet is to reduce hot water consumption
• Take showers instead of baths, use low-flow
showerheads
• Wash clothes in warm or cold water
• Use cold water for hand washing, cleaning tasks
• More tips at:
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating
/index.cfm/mytopic=13030
Lighting: 11%

• Daylighting – use what is free!

-windows & skylights
-Light tubes / light shelves
Lighting: 11%
• Choosing an
efficient type of
lighting is key
to realizing
energy savings!
• Controlling
lighting with
timers, motion
sensors,
photocells, or
occupancy
sensors is also a
good way to
save energy.
Computers & Electronics 9%
• An old computer running 24/7 can cost you serious money- from
$60 t0 $300 a year!
• Standby power / Phantom loads – look for speakers, printers,
modems, and other devices that are left on after computer is off
• Power adapters for laptops, cell phones, or any rechargeable items
• TVs, stereos, and speakers can use lots power when turned ‘off’

Solutions:
• Use power strips, and turn off items completely when not in use.
• Enable power saving settings on computers, both to turn off
monitors, and to suspend / hibernate.
• If you love your remote control, Invest in ‘Smart Strips’ that turn on
and off devices, based on when one ‘master’ device is switched on
and off.
• Turn down brightness level on TVs / computer displays. Most TVs
come with brightness levels set much higher than optimal.
Appliances 9%
• Always choose Energy Star certified items, when
available!
• If your clothes washer was built before 1998,
you’re paying about $145 more each year on
your utility bill than you would if you owned a
new ENERGY STAR qualified model.
• Replacing a dishwasher manufactured before
1994 with an ENERGY STAR qualified
dishwasher can save you more than $30 a year
in utility costs.
• A 40-pint ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifier
can save consumers $20 per year. This can add
up to more than $250 over the life of the unit.
Appliances 9%
Save money with your current appliances:
• Place appliances on power strips, and turn
them off when not used. Anything with a
remote control, or clock is always using
some energy, even when not ‘on’ or in
use.
Refrigeration 8%
• Old refrigerators and freezers are big wasters of energy!
It usually makes good sense to replace refrigeration
appliances made before 1993
• That old pre-1980’s refrigerator running in the basement
or garage is probably costing you $250 a year to run! A
new energy star model costs $45 a year to run.
• An over 30-year-old freezer costs you an extra $100
each year to run compared to a new ENERGY STAR
qualified model
• Find out your estimated savings here:
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=refrig.
calculator
• Through the door water / ice, side by side, and bottom
freezer units are typically less efficient than top freezer
models.
Refrigeration 8%
Keep your refrigerator working at its best:
• Ensure adequate ventilation clearance at back, sides and
top of unit. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Clean the air intake grill and coils located under the
refrigerator, and ensure it is free of debris. A special ‘coil
brush’ is available to assist with this task.
• Inspect and occasionally clean the magnetic seal on the
doors, and the area where it contacts.
• Place refrigerators in cool areas, if possible. A hot
garage can cause an older unit to run continuously,
costing $25-$50 dollars a month
Water Conservation
How do we use water…
What type of water user accounts for the
majority of water consumption in the United
States?
• Irrigation
• Thermoelectric power (gas / coal / nuclear)
• Public supplies (water department)
• Industrial
Water Conservation

Answer: turning off a light saves water!

• 48% Thermoelectric power (gas / coal /
nuclear)
• 34% Irrigation
• 11% Public supplies (water department)
• 5% Industrial
Source: http://ga.water.usgs.gov/edu/wateruse2000.html
Water Conservation
• Fix any leaks! One drip every second adds up to
2,082 Gallons of water wasted every year.
• Most water in homes (approximately 40%) is
used for toilet flushing, consider water saving
toilets that use 1.6 gallons per flush or less
• Install flush tank water displacement devices on
older toilets (Toilet Tank Bank)
• Consider disconnecting your downspout from
the sewer system, and installing a rain barrel
Save $
Federal (Tax Credits) and local incentives
compliment your energy savings
Local utilities offer programs, such as:
• Water Department - Water $avers
• Peoples Gas – Rebates for efficient
appliances and insulation
• ComEd – A/C Cycling program, 2nd
refrigerator buy-back, real-time pricing
Water $avers

• Switch to metered water usage

• Save money, guaranteed!
• Monitor your own usage with new
accurate gauges.
ComEd conservation programs
• AC Compressor Cycling: $5 or $10 bill credit per
summer month ($20 or $40 total credit), if you
allow ComEd to install a switch that can
disengage your AC compressor for brief periods
of time.
• Refrigerator buyback: 25$ to pickup and recycle
a working refrigerator
• Real Time Pricing – buy electricity on the ‘open
market’. The price you pay for power varies
hourly, and is more expensive during peak hours
Thank You!

• Presentation content, links, and other info

is accessible online @
news.chicagoenergyconsultants.com
• Feel free to email me with any questions:
bt@ChicagoEnergyConsultants.com
• Questions?