Project 11185EZ:

Record and Tape Cabinet

Music buffs may want to take note of this project. It has two shelves for record
albums and three drawers for tape cassettes. With each drawer divided into 16
rows, and each row holding four cassettes, there’s room for over 60 cassettes in
each drawer. Oak plywood was used for parts A , B, C, D, E, and H, while oak
solid stock was used for all other parts.
Record and Tape Cabinet Materials List
Part Description Size Number Required
A Side 3/4" x 16-3/4" x 41-3/4" 2
B Top 3/4" x 16-1/2" x 21-1/4" 1
C Upper Shelf 3/4" 12-1/8" x 21-1/4" 1
D Lower Shelf 3/4" x 16-1/2" x 21-1/4" 1
E Bottom 3/4" x 16-78" x 21-1/4" 1
F Edging 1/8" x 3/4" As req’d
G Back Rail 3/4" x 5" x 21-1/4" 1
H Back 3/8" x 21-1/4" x 37" 1
I Door Stile 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 42" 2
J Door Ends 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 21-1/2" 2
K Door Rail 3/4" x 2" x 21-1/2" 2
L Drawer Front 3/4" x 2-3/4" x 20-3/8" 3
M Drawer Sides 1/2" x 2-3/4" x 15-3/4" 6
N Drawer Back 1/2" x 2-3/4" x 18-7/8" 3
O Drawer Bottom 1/4" x 15-1/4" x 18-3/4"
3
P Drawer Slides See instructions 3 pr.
Q Plexiglas 1/4" 1

Record and Tape Cabinet Complete

Schematic
Record and Tape Cabinet Instructions
Step 1: Make the Sides (A)
1. Obtain a 4" wide x 43" long piece of five-quarter stock (actual thickness: 1-
1/16") to make the edging (F).
2. Cut enough edging stock (F) to cover all four edges of the sides (parts A)
and also the front edges of the top (part B), the upper shelf (part C), the
lower shelf (part D), and the bottom (part E).
3. Cut the two sides (A) to overall length and width, taking care to make sure
the edges are square.
4. Drive two or three short brads in part A where the edging will be placed.
NOTE: Place the brads along the bottom edge in a place where they
won’t be hit when the rabbet is cut later on.
5. Clip the heads of the brads so that about 1/16" is exposed.
6. Glue edging strips to the top and bottom edge of each side.
7. Use bar or pipe clamps to secure until dry.
8. Remove clamps.
9. Trim the ends of the edging flush with the sides of part A.
10. Use a block plane to trim the 1-1/16" wide edging to make it flush with the
3/4" thick side.
 11. Apply and trim the edging along the sides of part A in the same manner.
12. Equip the table or radial-arm saw with a dado head cutter.
13. Cut the 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet along the back edge of part A.
14. Cut the 3/8" x 3/4" rabbet along the bottom edge of part A.
15. Cut the 3/8" x 3/4" dado for the top (B) and the lower shelf (D).
16. NOTE: The 3/8" x 3/4" dado for the lower shelf (C) does not run the entire
width of the side, hence its name, “stopped dado.”
17. Use a router guided by a straight by a straight length of scrap stock clamped
to the side to cut the stopped dado.
18. Use a sharp chisel to cut square the rounded corners left by the router.

Step 2: Make the Top, Bottom, and Shelves

1. Cut the top (B), upper shelf (C), lower shelf (D), and bottom (E) to overall
length and width, taking care to make sure the cuts are square.
2. NOTE: Each of these parts has an edging strip along the front edge only.
Use the methods previously described to apply and trim the edging on all
four parts.
3. Use the dado head cutter to make a 3/8 x 3/8" rabbet along the back edge of
part E (see detail B).

Step 3: Make the Back Rail

1.Cut the back rail (part G) to length and width.
2.Use the dado head to make three cuts:
·A 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet on each end.
·A 3/8" x 3/8" rabbet along the bottom edge.
·A 3/8" x 3/4" groove to accept part B (see detail D).

Step 4: Assemble the Carcass

1. Give all parts a thorough sanding.
2. Finish the sanding with 220-grit sandpaper
3. Use glue and pipe or bar clamps with stock-protecting clamp pads to as-
semble the carcass (parts A through G).
4. Ask someone to help you check for squareness.
5. Make any adjustments needed to make the piece square.
6. Use a few finishing nails to secure parts E and G to the case.
7. Allow the assembly to dry overnight.
8. Remove the clamps.
 9. Measure the opening for the back (part H).
10. Cut the back to size.
11. Give both sides of part H a thorough sanding.
12. Join part H to the case with glue and finishing nails.

Step 5: Make the Door

1. Cut the door stile (part I) to length and width.
2. Use a dado head to cut the 1/2" x 3/4" grooves for parts J. NOTE: At the
top of the door this groove is cut at a point 2-1/4" from the top end,
while at the bottom it forms a rabbet.
3. Use a router in conjunction with a 1/4" diameter straight bit and an edge
guide to cut the 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove to accept the smoked
Plexiglas front (Q). NOTE: This groove is located 1/4" from the front
edge of part I.
4. Equip the router with a 3/8" diameter straight bit and edge guide.
5. Use the router to cut the 1/2" x 3/8" notch for part K.
6. Use a chisel to square the rounded corners.
7. Lay out a 1-1/4" radius on the top end.
8. Cut out with a band or saber saw.
9. Cut parts J and K to size.
10. NOTE: Part J has a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove to accept the smoked
glass (Q).
11. Use the same router set-up as was used to cut the groove in part I to cut the
groove on this part (J).
12. Final sand all door parts.
13. Cut the 1/4" Plexiglas® to size.
14. Dryfit (without glue) parts I, J, and K.
15. Bore holes for countersunk wood screws through part K into part J as
shown in detail A.
16. Bore the holes through part J into part K at the bottom joint.
17. Assemble the door parts as shown.
18. DO NOT glue the joint between parts J and K at the door bottom. This joint
is held together only by the counterbored wood screws, therefore part K can
be removed to replace the glass should it break or scratch.
19. Use glue to assemble all the rest of the parts and clamp securely.
20. Check for squareness.
21. Make adjustments if necessary.
Step 6: Make the Drawers
1. Purchase 16" full-extension drawer slides from a hardware or woodworking
store.
2. Cut and assemble the drawer parts as shown.
3. Mount the drawer slides.

Step 7: Sand and Finish

1. Give the entire project one more sanding using 220 grit paper.
2. Finish as desired.

These plans were originally published in Volume 7, Issue 4 of The Woodworker’s

Journal (July/Aug. 1983, pages 36-37).