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ABT SAFETY
(2013)
METALWORKING SHOP GENERAL SAFETY RULES
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CONTENTS:
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ARC WELDING SAFE OPERATIONAL RULES COMPRESSED GAS CYLINDER HANDLING SAFETY OXY-ACETYLENE WELDING SAFETY RULES OXYACETYLENE WELDING/CUTTING OPERATIONAL PROCEDURE
COMPREHENSIVE EYES, HAIR AND BODY PROTECTION RULES
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9.
Do not run extension cords through personnel doors. Do not allow extension cords to lie in puddles of water. Do not plug extension cords in series. Fully retract cord reels before using. 10. Do not place items on the floor in front of fire extinguishers, fire alarm pull stations, or circuit breaker panels. 11. Never use compressed air guns to clean clothing and hair. 12. Never indulge in horseplay in the shop areas. 13. Never eat or drink in the shop.
14. Do not operate power tools unless at least two people are in the shop area and can see and hear each other. 15. Keep fingers clear of the point of operation of machines by using special tools or devices, such as, push sticks, hooks, pliers, etc. Never use a rag near moving machinery. 16. In case of any injury, no matter how slight, report it. 17. If you have not worked with a particular material before, check the materials safety data sheet (MSDS) for any specific precautions to be taken while working with the material. Also, ask before cutting any unusual material. 18. Check the condition of power cords and plugs on portable tools before using them. Do not use a tool that has a worn or damaged power cord/plug. Report it. 19. When you are done with your work, turn off your machine, return your tools, and put everything in right order and condition for the next user. 20. At the end, clean up your machine, work table, and surrounding area. A dirty shop leads to accidents. Someone can slip on debris and electrode stubs or can trip over extension cords, when left lying around.
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Follow the general shop safety rules when operating any of the power tools.
Place the stock to be cut in the clamp in a way to minimize length of cut, and push the clamp all the way forward until it contacts the metal. Set the blade upper guide so that it is about 1/4 above the stock to be cut. With the hand turning wheel to the right of the saw, run the blade up to the piece to be cut. Measure from the outer face of the blade to the end of the metal and adjust to the desired dimension. This will take the saw-curf into account.
6.
7. 8. 9.
Turn the clamping screw handle in until it tightens and secures the stock.
Adjust the force on the auto feed mechanism, and the blade speed, based on the material type and thickness, and also the coolant flow (if available). Make sure the blade is not in contact with stock. Then, turn the saw on. Run the blade up until it contacts the metal and start cutting it with manual feed. Engage the automatic feed.
10. Never place hands or fingers directly in line with the blade. 11. When the saw has cut through the metal, turn the saw off and return it to the starting position. 12. To cut in an angle, release the locking device and tip the body until the desired angle is reached. Then, re-lock the lever. The saw body is heavy. If you do not think you can support the body on your own, ask for help. 13. Clean up the table and area around the saw when you are done and return the band saw body to the upright position, if you have moved it to an angle.
Follow the general shop safety rules when operating any of the power tools.
The nature of the machine requires that some pinch points do not have a guard around them, be very careful around this machine!
Adjust the gap between the front rollers for the thickness of material. Decide on the diameter you want to roll the piece. If it is not a full circle, draw the radius on the shop floor or a piece of butcher paper to check if you have reached the proper dimension. Adjust the rollers by pulling the rear roller chain so that the moving roller drops. Turn the machine switch to the forward position. Place the end of your work piece between the upper and lower rollers and check for straight angle between the rollers and edge of the piece. Keep your fingers away from rollers! Press and hold the foot pedal, the machine will grab the piece and starts to curl it.
10. The first curve is rarely, if ever, right. Adjust the machine for more curvature and run your work piece through again. Repeat the process until the desired diameter is achieved. 11. Make sure to turn to machine off at the end of the job. 12. Clean up around the machine when you are done 7
7. 8. 9.
10. The work piece will get hot! Have a can of water near by to cool it down.
11. When you are done, clean up the area around the grinder.
3. Avoid using pliers to hold your work piece while grinding, they do not allow you to hold the work piece flat against the tool rest. 4. Do not walk away from the sander while it is running.
5. Do not sand pieces that are 3/4 or less wide, unless a push shoe or some other means of supporting the piece is used. 6. For disk sanders, use only the half of the disc that is rotating toward the work table (downstroke side). 7. 8. Ensure that the distance between a circular sander and the edge of the table is not greater than inch To operate, turn the sander on. Place your work piece flat on the tool rest and apply even pressure with your work piece against the moving belt. Move the work piece across the belt so you do not cut it or wear out one section.
9. The work piece will get hot! Have a can of water near by to cool the work piece. 10. Clean up the area around the sander, when you are done.
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3. The shear will only cut one piece of metal at a time. Do not stack pieces to save time.
4. Lay out your metal and mark it with a scribe. 5. Slide the metal under the clamp and look between the clamp and the cutting edge. Sight down the cutting edge and line up the mark with it. You can also adjust the cutting length by using the sliding fence properly on the carrying rods.
Follow the general shop safety rules when operating any of the power tools.
The thinner the material, the more likely the bit will grab it, do not drill larger than a half inch hole in sheet metal! Thin materials should be punched or use Step Drill for safer operation. Measure your work and mark where you want the hole. Center punch the mark. Select the proper drill size and properly tighten it into the drill chuck. Remove the chuck key immediately, and put it away. Clamp the work so the center of the drill bit lands on the center punch mark. Adjust the drill to the proper RPM for the size of drill bit and the type of material you are using. See the chart next to the drill press for proper speed. Adjust the vertical distance between the tip of drill bit and work piece. You should maintain a clearance between the tip and highest point of the work piece or vise. Turn on the drill and intermittently apply an even pressure to the arbor until the hole is drilled. In this case, chips should break in small pieces.
10. When you are done, turn off the drill press. Wait until the chuck comes to a complete stop on its own, before removing the bit. Do not slow the chuck with your hand! 11. Put your bit back in its proper location. 12. Clean up the table and floor around the drill press. 13. If you are using a free moving vise, the handle should locate in the left side to prevent possible hazard. This is true for a long piece as well. 12
Before starting the arc-welding warn the people around you for protecting cover Never use wet arc-welding equipment or perform arc welding in wet or damp locations. Do not look at the arc! Looking at an arc for an extended period of time without a welding helmet may result in flash burn. While the output from the welder is limited by code to reduce the chances of a fatal electric shock, you can still get an unpleasant jolt, if you are not careful. Consider the following precautions: Use well insulated electrode holders and cables. Make sure that the welding cables are dry and free of grease and oil. Keep welding cables away from power supply cables. Wear dry hole-free gloves. Do not touch electrical connections, wires, or other electrically charged machine parts. Do not weld while your gloves or your clothing is wet. Never change the electrodes with bare hands or wet gloves. Do not grab the electrode and ground at the same time with your bare hands.
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6. 7. 8.
Always conduct arc welding in well ventilated areas. Avoid breathing welding fumes. Do not arc weld on coated metals (galvanized, lead, or cadmium plated steel) unless the coating is completely removed from the area to be welded and the welding area is well ventilated. Do not arc weld where flying sparks can reach flammable materials. Keep flammable materials at least 35 feet from arc welding operations.
9.
Remove combustible items, such as matches or a lighter, from your pockets and leave them in your backpack before beginning to arc weld. Make sure a fire blanket and extinguisher are present in the arc-welding work area.
When stick welding, always take the electrode out of the electrode holder before putting the holder on the table so it does not arc to the table.
10.
11.
12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Do not hand a classmate or the TAs your work until it has been cooled off in one of the water buckets.
Do not switch the polarity of the machine while it is under operating load, it can lead to machine damage and can burn the person that moved the switch. Always keep compressed gas cylinders away from arc-welding work areas. Never arc weld on a compressed gas cylinder! Never dip hot electrode holders in water. Avoid having electrode cables wrap around your body when arc welding. When possible, use vises or clamps to secure work pieces while arc welding.
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2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
7. 8.
12. Keep cylinders away from open fire or extreme heat (i.e., lighted torch). 13. Keep the area between your work and the cylinder regulators open, such that you may reach the regulators quickly in an emergency. 14. If not using the apparatus within one-half hour, shut down the apparatus and release all pressure in the hoses.
3. Assemble and fix the parts in place. The pieces need to be stable for a good weld line.
4. Use the related chart to select the nozzle size for the thickness of material you plan to use for welding.
Nozzles come in a variety of sizes, from 000 (for a very small flame, typically used for thin materials) to upwards of 3 (for a large flame needed for thick materials). Larger nozzles produce larger flames and in general, are more appropriate for thicker material. Choosing the right size nozzle becomes easier with more experience.
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5.
Clean the nozzle. Carbon deposits can build up on the nozzles which interfere with flame quality and cause backfiring.
The cleaning tool has a wide flat blade (with a file-like surface) which is used to clean carbon deposits on the exterior of the nozzle.
Use it to scrape any deposits from the flat face of the tip.
Use the wire-like files to clean the interior of the nozzle. Pick the largest wire which will fit inside the nozzle and the scrape the edges of the hole to remove any carbon buildup.
6.
Attach the nozzle to the gas feed line by hand. Don't over-torque the nozzle and hose fitting are both made of brass which doesn't stand up well to abuse. A snug, finger tight fit is the sufficient. Check the pressure levels in the oxygen and acetylene tanks. There should be at least 50 PSI in the acetylene tank. The oxygen tank can be used until it is completely empty.
Notice that the oxygen used in OAW is not for human consumption. It contains contaminants that could be unhealthy if taken in large quantities.
7.
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3.
Open the pressure regulator valve on the acetylene tank (turn clockwise to open) and adjust the pressure in the acetylene line to the right pressure (normally, 5 PSI). Do not pressurize the acetylene over 15 PSI. It will explode.
Open the acetylene pin valve on the handle of the welding tool, letting acetylene escape. Tweak the pressure regulator valve until the regulator pressure is constant at 5 PSI. Close the acetylene pin valve. Stay aside and open the main valve on the oxygen tank. Turn the valve until it is fully open (until it stops turning). Open the pressure regulator valve on the oxygen tank (turn clockwise to open) and adjust the pressure in the oxygen line to the right pressure (normally, 10 PSI). Open the oxygen pin valve on the handle of the welding tool, letting oxygen escape. Tweak the pressure regulator valve until the regulator pressure is constant at 10 PSI. Close the oxygen pin valve. Slightly open the acetylene valve (~1/8 turn), until you can just barely hear acetylene escaping. Make sure there is no body or anything flammable in the path of the nozzle. Use the striker to ignite the acetylene. The flame should be yellow and will give off a lot of soot.
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4.
5. 6. 7.
8. 9.
acetylene until the flame is just about to separate from the tip. (The flame will separate from the tip of the nozzle if you add too much acetylene.) If so, reduce the flow until the flame reattaches to the tip, and then open the valve again to the nearseparation point. again. DO NOT try and ignite the flame with both oxygen and acetylene pin valves open. As the oxygen is added the flame will turn bluish in color.
2. Slightly open the oxygen pin valve. If the flame goes out, turn off both gases and try
3. The blue flame will be divided into 3 different color regions: A long yellowish tip, a
blue middle section, and a whitish-blue intense inner section. There are three types of flames as described below:
Neutral flame- This type of flame is the one you will use most often in the shop. It is called neutral because it has no chemical effect upon the metal during welding. It is achieved by mixing equal parts oxygen and acetylene and is witnessed in the flame by adjusting the oxygen flow until the middle blue section and inner whitish-blue parts merge into a single region. Reducing or carburizing flame- If there is excess acetylene, the whitish-blue flame will be larger than the blue flame. This flame contains white hot carbon particles which may be dissolved during welding. This reducing flame will remove oxygen from iron oxides in steel. Oxidizing flame- If there is excess oxygen, the whitish-blue flame will be smaller than the blue flame. This flame burns hotter. A slightly oxidizing flame is used in brazing, and a more strongly oxidizing flame is used in welding certain brasses and bronzes.
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IV. WELDING:
1. Put on a dark face shield or goggle (minimum, #4 lenses) to protect your eyes from the light of the flame. Make sure you have on long sleeves and all natural fibers. You can wear a leather welding jacket and/or gloves if it makes you feel more comfortable. 2. Apply the flame to the assembled parts to begin heating. Pieces should be first tack welded together at the both ends. Use the region of the flame near the tip of the bluish inner region. 3. The metal will begin to glow. Continue heating both parts being welded until a small pool of welded metal appears near the edge of each of the parts. You must get molten pools on both parts simultaneously to create the weld. It may require adding more heat to one side than the other, and takes some practice. 4. After the molten pools have formed on both sides of the weld, use the flame to gently stir the two pools together to form the tack weld. This takes a little practice. 5. After the two pools have joined at the ends, start from one end (normally, right side), form a new molten pool, and slowly move the flame along the weld line, lengthening the pool by using metal from both parts. A gentle, circular, swirling motion will help mix the molten metal from both sides as the puddle is lengthened. This process is highly dependent on the materials and part geometries being welded. Practice, long enough to get better control. 6. Continue this process until the entire weld line is complete. 7. Once you're done, turn off the flame. Close the oxygen valve first, and then the acetylene valve. Notice that welded parts can remain hot for a long time. 23
V. BACKFIRING:
Improper operation of the torch may cause the flame to go out with a loud snap or pop. This is called backfire. Backfiring can be caused by:
Touching the tip against your work piece
The first thing to do is to turn the gas valves in the torch off, remove the cause, check all the connections, and try relighting the torch.
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VI. CUTTING:
1. Use the chart to select the recommended amount of acetylene and oxygen pressure, and also the right size of cutting tip for the thickness of material you are going to cut. Mount the cutting attachment on the torch assembly. Draw a cutting line on the piece you want to cut with a soap stone and clamp it securely and appropriately to a table.
2. 3.
4.
5. 6.
7.
8.
Open the mixing valve on the top of the torch until you here a slight hissing sound. The blue cones shouldnt jump when you use the cutting valve. If it does you will open the mixing valve a little more.
If you are right handed you will start at the left side of the material or if you are left handed you will start at the right side of the material.
9.
Hold the tip of the torch so that the blue cones are about 1/8 inch from the metal. Hold the torch there until a puddle begins to form and then use your thumb to open the cutting valve so that it blows the molten metal out of the cutting path. Move slowly across the metal following your soap stone line and making sure to go slow enough to keep the cut going, but fast enough that your cut doesnt weld itself back together.
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11.
After making your cut, release the cutting valve, close the acetylene valve, and then close the oxygen mixing valve in order to extinguish the flame.
When you are completely finished with the torch you will need to shut down the rigs. 26
12.
1. With the flame extinguished and the pin valves closed, close the main valve on the oxygen tank. It should be firmly seated at the bottom. 2. Open the oxygen pin valve to bleed off all of the oxygen in the regulator and feed line. Close the pin valve once the feed line pressure has gone to zero. 3. Fully back out the oxygen regulator valve so there is no pressure in the line. DO NOT close the valve, as this will pressurize the line once the tank is open again. In the case of the acetylene, if it is pressurized over15 PSI it may explode! If you are not sure about doing this properly, ask for help. 4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the acetylene line. 5. Return all of the tools to their proper storage places and coil the feed lines around the handle on the gas cylinder cart. Do not remove the nozzle from the feed line. The feed lines should always have a nozzle attached to prevent accidental damage to the threads used to attach the nozzle.
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III. APPENDIX
COMPREHENSIVE HAIR, EYE AND BODY PROTECTION RULES
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I. EYE PROTECTION:
1) All instructors, staff, shop users, and visitors must wear eye protection that meets the ANSI Z-87.1-1989 standard while in the different shop areas, except for office and break room areas. Standard safety glasses are posted at each entrance door for users and visitors.
For people who wear corrective glasses, eye protection must be of the type that can be worn over glasses. Prescription-ground safety lenses may be substituted if they provide equivalent protection and if side shields are attached to the glasses frame.
2)
3) All shop staff, users, and visitors who are welding or viewing these activities must wear proper eye and face protection from the radiation produced by welding. Standard welding goggles or helmets will be provided at the related areas. a. ARC WELDING OR ARC CUTTING OPERATIONS REQUIRE THE USE OF WELDING HELMETS WITH AN APPROPRIATE FILTER LENS. b. GOGGLES WITH FILTER PLATES OR TINTED GLASS ARE REQUIRED FOR WELDING OR CUTTING OPERATIONS. 4)
GAS
Safety glasses are essential for portable hand grinding/cutting operations and stationary grinding machines. Depending on your specific activity, you may also require full face shield protection.
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4)
SLEEVES: Long sleeves are not recommended around rotating machinery. Many machine shops require short sleeve attire without the option for long sleeves. BAE allows long sleeves, but the sleeves may *not* be loose, unbuttoned, or beyond the wrist. Floppy sleeve cuffs are likely to get hooked on a lathe chuck, a mill cutter, or drill chuck. Ideally, you should roll up your sleeves to the elbows. An unbuttoned cuff that is folded back just once may be an even greater danger than buttoned. Jackets with elastic cuffs and tight sleeves reduce the likelihood of entanglement. Shop staff may stop you from working if they determine your work is dangerous.
Tank-top or sleeve-less shirts are not allowed. Especially in the steel rack and sheet metal areas, there are significant risks of cuts and scrapes. In the machining and welding areas, there is greater risk of hot chips or slag or grindings coming in contact with or lodging inside the shirt, which can startle and/or burn you.
5)
SHOP COAT: Appropriate type and size of shop coat is required for welding and is not needed otherwise. It should be pointed out that UNTUCKED/UNZIPPED shop coats, jackets, and shirts present risk in the shop, especially when you lean over or into a lathe, mill, drill press, pedestal wire wheel, and so forth. Unzipped coats can swing into rotating or moving machine parts, especially if you lean into the machine or if an air fan is running or compressed air is blown in the vicinity. Snug fitting t-shirts and tighter button down shirts and blouses are ok. Dresses or other loose clothing cannot be worn while operating machinery.
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6) APRON: Wearing apron is common in machine shops, and is accepted and often recommended. It protects clothing from coolant and chips, and provides convenient storage pockets for measures and markers, and when is properly tied it keeps clothing away from rotating parts.
7) GLOVES: Gloves are a valuable type of personal protective equipment BUT they can also easily lead to entanglement. Wear appropriate gloves when welding or handling sharp materials but remove them before starting any machine. This applies to ALL gloves, be they leather, cotton, latex, nitrile, fingerless style, etc. Each seemingly thin glove can wrap up and pull a hand in enough to badly injure it. 8) SCARVES: Scarves around the neck are prohibited. Head scarves of any sort must be tied in back and no part of it must be able to come forward past the neck and hanging on the chest. Large scarves that may be part of clothing attire are best managed by use of a machinist's apron or very properly fitting coat with correct sleeve length and cuff tightness.
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9) WATCHES: Watches can catch on rotating or linearly moving machine parts. If you are lucky the band will break, and if you are not then serious injury is likely. There are plenty of clocks on the walls of our shops and there is no need for a watch. 10) RINGS: Rings are forbidden when working around machinery, especially rotating machinery. If your ring gets caught, you will likely suffer a broken, flesh-stripped one. 11) BRACELETS: Clearly unacceptable are loose or tight metal and leather bracelets, but also unacceptable are any plastic, silicone, string, bead, or other wrist wraps, whether they are loose or tight fitting. If you have a medically required bracelet, then a tight fitting sleeve might be appropriate depending on the task. 12) NECKLACES: Neck chains that dangle forward (with or without pendants), and also neck ties are not allowed. Neck chains are allowed if they are "choker" style, meaning they are fairly snug around the neck. They are also allowed if the shirt/blouse is buttoned up to the neck or is "crew neck" style. V-neck shirts are inadequate to hold back a long necklace.
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13) EARRINGS: Stud earrings around machinery are fine, but any earrings around welding probably are not fine. Very small hoop earrings are fine around machinery, but anything dangling more than one inch or so is not fine. 14) RESPIRATORY PROTECTION: Welding operations must be conducted with good ventilation. The movable welding fume hoods must be used whenever welding is occurring inside the shop areas. 15) MACHINE GAURDS: Machine guards provided for the operator safety must be in place whenever the machine is operated. Guards or shields removed for maintenance must be replaced before the machine is used again. 16) BACK PROTECTION: Shop staff and users must not attempt to lift more than 50 pounds unassisted, and should ask others to help in lifting any heavy tool, material, attachment, or equipment. Use appropriate lifting techniques, hoist, fork trucks, and other lifting devices as needed to protect back injuries. 34