6, 7 Middle Ages For

History of Fashion..
World Byzantine middle ages 300-1400 AD
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
History of Fashion.. World

Byzantine middle ages 300-1400 AD
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda Associate Professor NIFT, Bangalore
Historians use the term "middle ages" to identify the period
between ancient times and modern times, a thousand years from approximately 500 AD to 1500 AD. Although civilization was in decline at the beginning of this period, a powerful new Islamic civilization was about to arise in the Middle East, and older civilizations would eventually revive. The first few centuries of the middle ages in Europe are often called the Dark Ages because civilization had collapsed after the Fall of Rome, and Europe was torn by widespread fighting among barbarian tribes. Christianity took hold in the Roman Empire as the empire was falling apart Later, the Roman Empire adopted Christianity as its official religion, which spread Christianity over a large area and made Christianity a major world religion. Christianity was so central to life during the middle ages in Europe that Western Europe was called Christendom.
One of the world's great civilizations was next door to Europe in the eastern part of the Roman Empire, the part that did not fall to barbarians. The eastern Roman Empire survived for another thousand years under a new name, the Byzantine Empire with its capital at Constantinople. The size of the empire fluctuated over the centuries, but it generally included Greece and Asia Minor. Byzantine culture extended into Russia.
As the Romans declined, on their ashes grew the late Romans or the Byzantines, by the walls of the East Roman and the West Roman Empires
Emperor Justinian (482-565), Empress Theodora
Byzantine emperors served as a head of both the Christian church and the state. The aristocracy was based on wealth rather than blood. Women held a prominent place in this aristocracy until ideas from the Islamic Near East began to infiltrate.
The best-known example of Byzantine architecture is the church of Saint Sophia constructed by emperor Justinian in Constantinople. Built as the largest Christian church in the world, it became the model for later Eastern Orthodox churches.
Church of Saint Sophia
Byzantine emperors promoted a style of art that featured beautiful mosaics.
Mosaic at the Hagia Sophia
Justinian also brought together all of the laws of the Roman
Empire into a single legal code that became the basis for modern legal systems in Europe.
Rules and customs in the Byzantine court became so complex
that the term "byzantine" is now used to indicate any set of complicated laws or procedures.
As in the Roman Empire, labour was supplied by a slave class of
foreign captives and the poor.
Fourth to the Sixth Centuries
Christians
Arabs
Textile & Costume..

Wool and linen predominated until the 6th century. Silk was being produced by the Byzantines as early as the 6th
century, and they continued to supply the Western world until the 9th century. it was a lucrative trade;
Byzantine brocade with Persian designs was sought after. Garments were appliqud or embroidered, or adorned with
precious stones
Byzantine costume merges the styles and ideas of both east and
west. A gradual evolution of Roman styles incorporated more and more ornate eastern elements, producing a rigidity and formality in dress that reflected the court life of the Emperor and the landed nobility.
Byzantine dress changed considerably over the thousand years of the Empire, but was essentially conservative. The Byzantines liked colour and pattern, and made and exported very richly patterned cloth, woven and embroidered for the upper classes, and resist-dyed and printed for the lower.
Unlike the earlier period which left fabric largely undecorated, the people of the Byzantine/Romania n Empire used all manner of woven, embroidered and beaded surface embellishment, particularly on Church vestments and court dress.
Sixth Century - Byzantine Empire Attendants and Empress Theodora

If one color would to chosen
for Byzantium it would be gold because it seemed the most prevalent color in art from that time.
Other colors associated with
this court would be violet, purple, brown, blue, red black, white gray and plum.
The Western colors were
much deeper and earthy.
Byzantine" dress is more body covering than earlier Roman costume, usually including long sleeves and long hems. This is generally assumed to be a reaction to the growing Christian view that the body was not beautiful, but a pit of vice.
A different border or trimming round the edges was very common, and many single stripes down the body or around the upper arm are seen, often denoting class or rank. Taste for the middle and upper classes followed the latest fashions at the Imperial Court. .
The most notable feature of the Eastern Empire's dress is it's surface decoration.
Byzantine Royal Costume..

Dalmatica; long unbelted
robe outer garment for rulers

Paludamentum; Cloak
fastend with clasp on right shoulder

TablionThe very
elaborate, oblong decoration embroidered in red and gold on the back and front of the imperial Byzantine mantle. For other high officials it varied in color. Protects fabric from excessive wear.
Foliated Crown crown with a decorative and pointed upper edgedecorations were commonly leaf or scallop patterns. Pallium The pallium was a circle dropped over the head with tabs hanging front and back, often encrusted with decoration.
MantleHuge square piece of fabric
tied around the body as a wrap and related to the himation. CoteA long tunic with the sleeve cut in one piece with the garment. The length varied from the calf to the instep. Surcote - A loose, lightweight garment originally worn by the Crusader over his armor as a protection against the sun. It soon became and over-tunic worn over the cote, sometimes unseamed, sometimes sleeveless, sometimes with wide open sleeves like a dalmatic. It could be belted or unbelted, and the length varied from knee to the ankle.
The cote and surcote are simply new terms in the 13th century for what are essentially the undertunic and an outer tunic. Upper-class men wore long sleeved, full-length cotes, with a shorter surcote. The surcote could be sleeveless with low armholes, called the sideless surcote. It could also have wide, elbow-length sleeves.
MitreThe first miters were only low caps, with the points at the sides instead of front and back. By the end of the tenth century the low miter was customary and worn, as the miter is now, by a bishop as part of his ceremonial costume.
9th-10th Century Byzantines from Stibbert
Cope: was a voluminous half-circle cape, remnant of a hooded cloak, that was often elaborately embroidered. . This is sewn to one edge and is hooked or pinned by a jeweled brooch to the other.
Deacon, Bishop, Levite - Church Official,

Long half circle capes were
part of male court dress, worn in place of the old toga over the new long sleeved tunica or dalmatica. This style of decoration, and many of the garment shapes, survive to this day in the priestly vestments of Orthodox churches in Greece, Eastern Europe
Early 6th Century.. trousers
When the tunic is shorter (only on men) the lower limbs are encased in trousers, a "barbarian" invention first adopted by the Roman army and lower classes, and eventually by all men.
Women..
TunicIt was like the late Roman
tunica, the sleeves in one with the garment, or pieced on with a straight seam. The neckline was high and slit down a little distance to admit the head. The length of the tunic varied from a little below the knees to the instep. ChemiseAn undergarment with long sleeves that showed beneath the sleeves and some lower necklines of the outer garment for women..
WimpleA shaped kerchief
for the head. Comes in various lengths from shoulder to floor

KirtleAnglo-Saxon for tunic.
Usually female garment, long sleeve fit at waist and full bottom at the floor.
ChatelaineCord worn
around the woman's waist that a house-hold items, such as scissors or keys, were attached.
Bliaut
In the 12th century a new tunic appeared - the
bliaut - with a long, flared skirt that was joined to the bodice at a low waist seam. An inset bias or diagonal piece was set in at the hip to assure better fit. The bliaut, in its more complex pattern shapes, shows progress in clothing construction. The bodice was now fitted closely, and laced shut at the sides. This type of closure applied to the women's bliaut as well, as garments became more body-revealing. New attitudes toward modesty were evident in these garments. Sleeves were funnel-shaped, revealing the tight-fitting undertunic. The bliaut was made of luxurious fabrics such as silk, satin or velvet, and embroidered with gold thread.
Bliaut & Paenula/Wimple
Byzantine Court Dress of the 6th Century from Stibbert
Women of Byzantium wore their hair up like the women of Imperial
Roman with elaborate coiffures. They sometimes concealed their hair with turban-wrappings borrowed from the Orient. Women of the West also wore turbans however they did not wear their hair up like Roman women, they adopted the hair style of the barbarians and let their hair grow very long. They braided it into braids that reached below their knees.
The Empress, wears a Stemma jeweled crown with pendants of beads or pearls and other precious materials hanging down from the crown on the side of the head seen primarily hanging by the ears called Perpendula and maniakis- the wide jeweled collar.
Church garment as evolution of Byzantine costume

The pallium, developed from the Greek himation and was a feature of Byzantine dress. The original was folded into a narrow strip, and then reduced to a circle with tabs hanging front and back. It featured embroidered crosses
This image also shows the mitre, a double pointed cap with tabs hanging down the back, a headdress reserved for bishops.
Saints in the dress of 6th Century Patricians /A saint depicted in the dress of a princess of the 5th Century
Chora Church in Istanbul gives an excellent view of a
range of costume from the late period
The Byzantines are believed to have invented the face-veil for women, though some sources ascribe its invention to the Persians. Among the Byzantines, it was worn only in the street by the upper classes.
Not many shoes are seen clearly in Byzantine Art because of the
long robes of the rich. Red shoes marked the Emperor; blue shoes, a sebastokrator and green shoes a protovestiarios.
Military costume
This stayed close to the Roman
pattern, especially for officers. A breastplate of armour, under which the bottom of a short tunic appeared as a skirt, often overlaid with a fringe of leather straps, the pteruges. Similar strips covered the upper arms, below round armour shoulder-pieces. Boots came to the calf, or sandals were strapped high on the legs. A rather flimsy-looking cloth belt is tied high under the ribs as a badge of rank rather than a practical item.
Pteruges
9th-13th Century European armor
9th-13th Century European armor
Summary ..
An important distinction between Roman and Byzantine dress is
the contrast between the loose, draped Roman style and the semifitted, rigid Byzantine silhouette. This change reflected the new Christian concern with concealing the human body, as it was considered an object of shame in Christian doctrine.
Necklines were high and sleeves long. The stiff fabrics took their
own form, totally unlike the drape and flow of Classical garments. The new silhouette was flat, rigid and static.
Dress in the Byzantine period is considered to be among the most
ornate and complex in history, competing with the Elizabethan period in richness and artificiality.
Other than the development of sericulture - the manufacturing of
silk - no great changes were seen from the end of the Empire to the 11th century, with costume adhering to pseudo-Roman forms.
Between the 10th and 13th centuries, an evolution occurred,
transforming the unfitted tunic to the complex, fitted bliaut.
The Eastern Roman, or Byzantine Empire flourished, building a
strong commercial economy. Expansion ended in the 7th century, when Arab armies invaded.
the Empire finally collapsed under the weight of the powerful new
Arabic forces that had been united under Islam.

The city of Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1453. The disappearance of civil government in the west opened the
door for the Germanic invaders to form new kingdoms. Here too a new culture developed, based on a fusion of Roman and Germanic traditions.
900-1200 Romanesque Carolingian period Frankish costume..
The cultural period of this period was
characterized by a strong display of power by the ruling nobility and struggle for power between Church and State.
Romanesque style developed with the
fusion of Teutonic elements and arts of Roman.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
During the Carolingian period France under Charlemagne (Christian King of Germanic people, called the Franksgave France its name) gained supremacy over central Europe. After his armies defended the Pope, the pope crowned Charlemagne the new Roman emperor on the Christmas day 800AD.
Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne, by Albrecht Drer
After Charlemagnes death his empire was divided amongst three sonsformed geographical outline of Germany and France.
The Cathedral of Saint-Front, Perigueux, France, has five domes like Byzantine churches, but is Romanesque in construction.
Bamberg Cathedral presents the distinctive outline of many of the large Romanesque churches of the Germanic tradition. Angoulme Cathedral, France
Feudalism.. The social and economic system which characterized most European societies in the Middle Ages
In most of medieval Europe, society was dependent on
the "feudal" system, which was based on allocation of land in return for service. The king would give out grants of land to his most important noblemen (barons and bishops),
At the beginning of the Middle Ages a knight was
originally a person of noble birth who was trained in a range of weapons, horsemanship and chivalry.
A Knights Armor in the Middle Ages was extremely
expensive to produce. It had to be tailor-made to fit the Knight exactly or the Knight ran the risk of an ill-fitting suit of armor hampering him in battle
Feudal society was characterized by military landholders and working peasants. The nobility included bishops, for the church was one of the greatest of medieval landowners. Near the bottom of the social pyramid were the agricultural laborers, or villeins, and beneath them, the serfs/vassals.
Monk, Bishop, Priest

A Viking the explorers, warriors, merchants, and pirates who raided and colonized wide areas of Europe from the late eighth to the early eleventh century.
Eleventh Century; Knights and Soldiers - First Crusade

Roman Catholic popes
encouraged Christian Kings and knights to undertake military expedition or crusade to capture holy land from the Muslims land at the eastern end of the Mediterranean sea where Jesus lived. also holy to Jews and Muslims.
Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries - Military and Religious Orders The great military orders had their origin in the crusades, from which they retain the common badge of every order of knighthood -- the cross worn on the breast.
Order of St. John of Jerusalem (Hospitallers) - Females
Crusaders conquered much of holy land and Jerusalem in 1099.
From : Kingdom of Heaven
Effect of crusades
The crusaders enjoyed the advantages which come from travel in strange lands and among unfamiliar peoples. They went out from their castles or villages to see great cities, marble palaces, superb dresses, and elegant manners; they returned with finer tastes, broader ideas, and wider sympathies. The crusades opened up a new world. Furthermore, the knowledge of the science and learning of the East gained by the crusaders through their expeditions, greatly stimulated the Latin intellect, and helped to awaken in Western Europe that mental activity which resulted finally in the great intellectual outburst known as the Revival of Learning and the period of the Renaissance. Islamic decorative arts were highly valued imports to Europe throughout the Middle Ages; In the early period textiles were especially important, used for church vestments, shrouds, hangings and clothing for the elite. Islamic pottery of everyday quality was still preferred to European wares.
The elegance of the Orient, with its silks, tapestries, precious stones, perfumes, spices, pearls, and ivory, was so enchanting that an enthusiastic crusader called it "the vestibule of Paradise. The Crusades were therefore one of the principal fostering influences of Chivalry. Contact with the culture of the East provided a general refining influence. In addition to the effects of the crusades on material development various arts, manufactures, and inventions before unknown in Europe, were introduced from Asia. This enrichment of the civilization of the West with the "spoils of the East" can be seen in the artefacts displayed in modern European museums.
Socialknighthood
The Knights Templar were a
monastic military order formed at the end of the First Crusade with the mandate of protecting Christian pilgrims on route to the Holy Land. After the crusades were over, the knights returned to their Chapters throughout Europe and became known as moneylenders to the monarchs. In the process many historians believe they invented the Banking System.
Material
Wool remained the primary fabric for clothing of all classes, while linen
undergarments, which were more comfortable against the skin and could be washed and then bleached in the sun, were increasingly worn.
Silk, although extremely expensive, was readily available to wealthy people.
Silks from Byzantium were traded in Pavia by way of Venice, and silks reached France via Spain.
In the last decade of the previous century, the First Crusade had opened
additional routes for Eastern fabrics and style influences into Europe.
Clothing
The clothing of this period was Frankish costume was derived from Teutonic
or Roman clothing
As in the previous centuries, two styles of dress existed side-by-side for
men:

A short (knee-length) costume deriving from a melding of the everyday dress of the later Roman Empire The short tunics worn by the invading barbarians, long (ankle-length) costume descended from the clothing of the Roman upper classes and influenced by Byzantine dress
The differences in the Byzantine and Western dress in the years between
the sixth and eleventh centuries are the differences in ornament, headdress, and length of particular garments.
Men costume
Newly fashionable were short, fitted garments
for the upper body, worn under the tunic: the doublet, made of two layers of linen, and an early form of quilted and padded jupe or gipon.
The sleeveless surcoat or cyclas was
introduced during this period as protective covering for armour (especially against the sun) during the Crusades.
Fur was worn as an inside lining for warmth.
Vair, the fur of the squirrel, was particularly popular and can be seen as a white and bluegrey softly striped or checkered pattern lining the mantles of the wealthy
Richard the Lion heart is portrayed in a long tunic with tight sleeves and a mantle, late 12th century.
Charlemagne wore the traditional, inconspicuous and distinctly nonaristocratic costume of the Frankish people
He used to wear the Frank dress: next to his skin a linen shirt and linen breeches, and above these a tunic fringed with silk; while hose fastened by bands covered his lower limbs, and shoes his feet, and he protected his shoulders and chest in winter by a close-fitting coat of otter or marten skins.
Charlemagne and Pope Adrian I

Underclothes consisted of an inner tunic (French chemise) or shirt with long, tight sleeves, and drawers or braies, usually of linen. Tailored cloth leggings called chausses or hose made as separate garments for each leg, were often worn with the tunic; striped hose were popular
Men wore knee-length tunics for most activities,
Men of the upper classes wore long tunics, with hose and mantles or cloaks.
long and short tunics and hose or leggings,. The king wears a mantle lined in vair (squirrel fur) fastened on one shoulder, c. 1180.
The Franks had a characteristic short cape called a "saie", which barely came to the waist.
Shoes, not always worn by the poor, were mostly the simple turnshoe typically a cowhide sole and softer leather upper, which were sewn together, and then turned inside out.
short tunics and chausses/hose. The "cappa" or chaperon, a one-piece hood and cape over the shoulders was worn for cold weather, The man on the left wears a hood over a linen coif, Normandy
Women clothing
Women's clothing consisted
of an undertunic called a chemise, chainse or smock, usually of linen, over which was worn one or more ankleto-floor length tunics (also called gowns or kirtles).
A new fashion, the bliaut
giron, arose in mid-century: this gown is cut in two pieces, a fitted upper portion with a finely pleated skirt attached to a low waistband.
Women clothing..
With the coming of Christianity, women were expected to
cover their hair, at least in public, with a loose shoulder cape, mantle or kerchief.
It appears that fur was mostly worn out of sight, as a lining,
or perhaps like the fur waistcoats known from the later Middle Ages.
Figure showing the trumpet-sleeved bliaut characteristic of the later 12th century,
Women of the French court
wore a loosely fitted tunic called a cotte or the formfitting bliaut over a full chemise with tight sleeves.
The bliaut had a flaring skirt
and sleeves tight to the elbow and then widening to wrist in a trumpet shape.
A bliaut apparently cut in
one piece from neckline to hem has visible side-lacing and is belted at the natural waistline.
Joan of Arc Death at the Stake.
Carolingians - 700-800
Tenth Century/ Eleventh Century - France Frankish King and Queen
Frankish Noblewomen/ Emperor Henry II, Frankish Bishop
English Armor and Lady of the 13th Century
Summary..
The main feature of the period was the meeting of late Roman
costume with the invading peoples who moved into Europe over this period.
For a period of several centuries, people in many countries dressed
differently depending on whether they identified with the old Romanized population, or the new populations such as Franks, Anglo-Saxons Visigoths.
The most easily recognizable difference between the two groups
was in male costume, where the invading peoples generally wore short tunics, with belts, and visible trousers, hose or leggings.
The Romanized populations, and the Church, remained faithful to
the longer tunics of Roman formal costume, coming below the knee, and often to the ankles.
1300-1500 Gothic Chivalry Burgundian fashion
The Gothic period, ranging from the 12th century to the 15th
century is characterized by idealism and naturalism, where for example, sculptures in France of the gothic period show a dynamic variety of poise, detail, and articulation.
The gothic style succeeded the Romanesque as the most popular
contemporary art form in Europe, and prevailed in most countries.

The word 'gothic' is very old, and was used from the Renaissance
on to signify the art style of the Middle Ages. It was named after the German tribe of the Goths, who once had invaded Italy and so had broken up the Roman Empire
The Gothic style succeeded the Romanesque period and was in turn succeeded by the Renaissance. It reached its highest artistic achievements in Northern and Western Europe from the mid-12th century until as late as the end of the 15th century.
The western faade of Reims Cathedral, France
Interior of San Zanipolo, Venice
Salisbury Cathedral has the tallest spire in England
The costumes of Gothic time are usually divided into two periods:

Early Gothic and Late Gothic.
Necklines were lower, a little at first and trimming was not so heavy as
before. The heavy double-sleeve went out by 1200 and the forearm was revealed because sleeves became tight.
Shorter tunics emerged and the cote reached to the knee and a little above
it but women's clothing was invariably long.

The period changed from the earlier flowing draperies that
metamorphosed, finally, into fabrics that became more and more stiff.
In the fifteenth century the extremes were in mostly the upper silhouette.
There were crisp pleats, tight belts, padded doublets, and increasingly popular leg-o-mutton sleeve, all the items foreshadowing the squareness of the next hundred years.
Colors for this period are jewel like hues much like painting from Jan van Eyke's work. The colors were reds, greens, blues and golds, soft but intense. Interspersed with these colors were brown gray and tan of humbler garments.
One particular color that could associate with the earlier period would be vermillion.
Material..
Although wool was used for the outer layers of clothing, linen, made from the flax plant, was generally used for clothing that was directly in contact with the skin, as it was not as coarse as wool and therefore much more pleasant. Unlike wool, linen could also be laundered and bleached in the sun. Cotton, imported raw from Egypt and elsewhere, was used for padding and quilting, and cloths such as buckram and fustian. The well-off could afford woven brocades from Italy or even further. Fashionable Italian silks of this period featured repeating patterns of roundels and animals, deriving from Ottoman silk-weaving centres in Bursa, and ultimately from Yuan Dynasty China via the Silk Road.
13th century clothing features long, belted tunics with surcoats or mantles in various styles.
ChaperonA caped hood with long tail, or liripipe, worn with the face opening around the head Cote-hardieA shaped garment, tightfitting around the shoulder, waist and hips. PourpointA short jacket with tight sleeves buttoned from elbow to wrist, worn under the cote-hardie
DoubletA short jacket worn under a closefitting pour point, when used as an outer garment it was padded and had a short skirt. TippetA band sewn around the elbow of the cote-hardie sleeve with the end hanging as a streamer
HouppelandeA loose and comfortable gown of great size One style worn by men had long, flowing , bell shaped sleeves, a long fitted waist, and floor length or long skirt slit to the knees; another style, known as the bastard houppelande was only to calf length.
A high standing collar was usually a part of this flamboyant costume.
Young Merlin wears a short tunic with a rectangular cloak or mantle and hose. King Vortigern wears a mantle draped over both shoulders over a long gown or tunic and shoes with straps at the instep. Blond hair was popular so many people bleached their hair. Men in the late Gothic period wore hair bobbed also with neatly curled ends and more men began wearing beards that were neatly trimmed accompanied by a small mustache.
Man in the short, hooded cape called a cappa, c. 1250-70.
A close fitting cap tied under the chin.

Late Gothic Men..
The innermost layer of clothing were the breeches, a loose undergarment, usually made of linen, which was held up by a belt. Next came the shirt, which was generally also made of linen, and which was considered an undergarment, like the breeches. A doublet was a buttoned jacket that was generally of hip length. Similar garments were called , pourpoint, jaqueta or jubn., These garments were worn over the shirt and the hose. Crackows A long-tipped hose and shoe
Hose or chausses made out of wool were used to cover the legs, and were generally brightly colored,, and often had leather soles, so that they did not have to be worn with shoes Hose were generally tied to the breech belt, or to the breeches themselves, or to a doublet
Fourteenth Century
Bridegroom wears a red cotehardie, hose, and hood, Italy, 1350s, Huntsman wears side-lacing boots, late 14th century
Italian fashion of the 1470s features short gowns worn over doublets, and hats of many shapes.
WOMEN..
Dress for women was restrained. A floor length, looselyfitted gown, with long, tight sleeves and a narrow belt, was uniform. Over this was worn the cyclas or sleeveless surcoat (also worn by men). Women wear linen headdresses or wimples and veils,
Women raking hay work barefoot and wear their kirtles looped up over longsleeved linen smocks,
Full-bodied houppelandes with voluminous sleeves worn with elaborate headdresses are characteristic of the earlier 15th century.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
Gown, kirtle, and chemise
The tight slashed sleeves reveal the full chemise sleeves beneath
Fur-trimmed Burgundian gown of mid-century has a V-neck that displays the black kirtle and a band of the chemise. Hair is pulled back in an embroidered hennin and covered by a short veil.
Long gowns of the 1480s are carried looped up to allow walking, displaying the kirtle beneath.
royal ermine-trimmed sideless surcoat and a symbolic mantle
Parti-coloringA multi-colored garment, often with one side embroidered based on the colors and the emblems in a coat of arms.
Diapering Putting precious gems and stones on a garment in simple or elaborate patterns most often recognized by a diamond pattern.
Woman wears a
pink sleeveless gown (Surcoat) over a green kirtle, with a linen veil and white gloves
EscoffinAs tall, richly brocaded headdress, sometimes shaped like two horns, sometimes like a narrow, tall turban; usually had a veil of fine lawn about a yard wide.
Burgundian Court Dress: HenninA truncated cone or steeple headdress with a veil completely covering the female hairdo.
wear heart-shaped headdresses with veils and belted, fur-lined gowns open at the front to display the chemises beneath, Burgundy, 144550.
RoundelA headdress made of a thick roll of material with a scarf or liripipe hanging down one side and draped over the shoulder.
PomanderA ball or hollow ornament often made of filigree, containing a sponge of perfume, suspended from a necklace or girdle.
Later in the period women's necks were exposed but their hair was covered by netting or reticulations like round cages.
No hair was visible and was plucked to have a high hairline and thin eyebrows. Many Italian women wear their hair twisted with cord or ribbon and bound around their heads
In the earily period women would wear many types of hair pieces to cover it, such as wimple and gorget. The gorget would actually cover the neck while the wimple would cover the head.
liripipe
Maria Portinari wears a truncated cone hennin with a veil draped over the back. The black loop on her forehead is thought to be part of the wire frame that balances the hennin.
Women..1450 Germany In this period The Dukes of Burgundy, members of the French Royal House of Valois
Houppelande:The woman's version of this robe had a soft, open collar, a short waist, a full skirt, and a long flowing sleeves.
Houppelande
Women spinning

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History of Fashion..

World Byzantine middle ages 300-1400 AD

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

History of Fashion.. World

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda Associate Professor NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Historians use the term "middle ages" to identify the period

Emperor Justinian (482-565), Empress Theodora

Church of Saint Sophia

Byzantine emperors promoted a style of art that featured beautiful mosaics.

Mosaic at the Hagia Sophia

Justinian also brought together all of the laws of the Roman

foreign captives and the poor.

Fourth to the Sixth Centuries

Textile & Costume..

Sixth Century - Byzantine Empire Attendants and Empress Theodora

much deeper and earthy.

Byzantine Royal Costume..

robe outer garment for rulers

fastend with clasp on right shoulder

MantleHuge square piece of fabric

9th-10th Century Byzantines from Stibbert

Deacon, Bishop, Levite - Church Official,

Early 6th Century.. trousers

WimpleA shaped kerchief

for the head. Comes in various lengths from shoulder to floor

Bliaut & Paenula/Wimple

Byzantine Court Dress of the 6th Century from Stibbert

Women of Byzantium wore their hair up like the women of Imperial

Church garment as evolution of Byzantine costume

Chora Church in Istanbul gives an excellent view of a

range of costume from the late period

9th-13th Century European armor

9th-13th Century European armor

transforming the unfitted tunic to the complex, fitted bliaut.

The Eastern Roman, or Byzantine Empire flourished, building a

Arabic forces that had been united under Islam.

900-1200 Romanesque Carolingian period Frankish costume..

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

The cultural period of this period was

fusion of Teutonic elements and arts of Roman.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne, by Albrecht Drer

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

In most of medieval Europe, society was dependent on

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Monk, Bishop, Priest

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Eleventh Century; Knights and Soldiers - First Crusade

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Order of St. John of Jerusalem (Hospitallers) - Females

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Crusaders conquered much of holy land and Jerusalem in 1099.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

From : Kingdom of Heaven

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

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