Mim 031 2013 11

military illustrated
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6.50 - Nov13 (issue 031 )

www.militaryillustratedmodeller.com
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Fly Model 1:32 Bachem Natter Ba 349V
GLOSS SEA BLUE
A high gloss nish for HobbyBoss 1:48
F4U-4B Corsair
p01 Cover 031.indd 1 30/09/2013 09:27
6510 Item code 1:35 Scale Decals for
Firepower
fortress!
3891
Paint your passion
odourless, nontoxic,
ideal for coloring with brush and airbrush
Catalogue 2013 Ask your local distributor or contact: Italeri S.p.A. - via Pradazzo, 6/b 40012 - Calderara di Reno - Bologna - Italy - Phone +39 051 31 75 211 - email: italeri@italeri.com
Glue your passion
Thin sinthetic brush with ergonomic
handle for precision assembly
Glass bottle
with anti evaporisation system
Liquid cement for plastic
designed and reccommended
for static modelling
Leopard 1 A4 1:72 7070
Vosper Crew 1:35 5616
Contains 6 gures
M4A3 Sherman Calliope 1:35 288
Ford Aeromax 106 1:24
HEMTT Gun truck
Aircraft Edition 3
Contents
modeller ISSUE No.031 November 2013
4 NEWS
Whats happening in modelling and aviation
6 KOREAN WAR GROUND
POUNDER
HobbyBoss 1:48 scale F4U-4B Corsair
by Brett Green
20 NAKED NATTER
Fly Models 1:32 scale Bachem Ba 349V
Natter by James Hatch
32 QMHE 2013 SHOW
REPORT
Queensland Model Show Report
36 BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE
OF THE BEHOLDER
Dirk Polchow builds Wingnut Wings 1:32
scale RE.8 Harry Tate
44 PREVIEW
Tamiya 1:72 scale A6M3 Type 32 Zero
46 DESERT STORMER
Revells big 1:32 scale Tornado GR.1
by Leo Stevenson
48 BOOK PREVIEW
How to Build Tamiyas 1:32 F4U-1
Birdcage Corsair
42 PAIN AND ELEGANCE
Amodels 1:32 Nieuport 16C by
Leo Stevenson.
50 JET FUELLER
Skunkmodels Workshop 1:48 R-11 US/
NATO Fuel Truck by Jason Woollett
53 PREVIEW
Kinetic Alpha Jet
54 GRIFFIN RISING
KittyHawk 1:48 JAS-39A/C Gripen
by Kamil Feliks Sztarbala
62 PREVIEW
HK Models 1:32 B-17G Flying Fortress
65 NEXT ISSUES
Whats coming up in the next issues
of Military Illustrated Modeller
66 TAILPIECE
Airfix 1:72 Focke-Wulf Fw 190 A-8
6
36
50
54
p03 Contents 031.indd 3 26/09/2013 11:04
4 Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2013
News
I
PMS (UK) has announced the inauguration of a special Gerry Anderson Trophy for Scale
ModelWorld 2013. The new award, to be present annually, will be for the best model in
the science fiction category of a spacecraft, vehicle or diorama. Anderson passed away
in late December 2012 but his legacy lives on in the TV series he created over a period of
some 40 years.
Gerry Anderson will be best known for his classic Supermarionation TV series such as
Thunderbirds, Fireball XL-5, Captain Scarlett as well as the later live-action UFO and Space
1999. The characters and more importantly the vehicles and spaceships, inspired modellers
all over the world.
Models, both commercially available examples and amazing scratchbuilt masterpieces,
have graced the science fiction classes and display tables at model shows for many years and
they remain popular to this day.
The new trophy is the brainchild of the Wakefield Branch of IPMS (UK), who approached
Competition Secretary Tony Horton with their proposal. IPMS (UK) approached the Trustees of
the Gerry Anderson Estate, who have graciously allowed us to use the Gerry Anderson name
for the new trophy.
Gerrys son, Jamie, said Im sure Dad would have been pleased to know that talented
modellers would be recognised with a trophy bearing his name.
Tony Horton, IPMS (UK) National Competition Secretary said The Gerry Anderson Trophy is
in honour of the man who has had an influence on our hobby, but in particular those modellers
who enjoy creating and modelling Science Fiction subjects.
Gerry Anderson Trophy for
Scale ModelWorld 2013
MENG MODELS DEBUT
1:32 RELEASE ME 163 B
T
he Me 163 B Komet was the worlds only operational rocket-powered
interceptor to shoot down enemy aircraft. It had tremendous speed and
climb rate thanks to its
unique power source
However, due to the
aircrafts short loiter time and
extremely high speed, the
only wing (Jagdgeschwader)
equipped with Me 163B
scored only nine victories
during WWII. Even so, just
like its nickname Komet, the
Me 163 B flashed across the
sky of the history, leaving
behind a bright light.
This 1:32 scale QS-001 Me
163 B model kit is MENGs
first large scale aircraft
project. The model is 178mm
in length and 292mm in
wingspan. This kit consists of
190 parts on 7 plastic sprues,
23 parts on 2 PE frets, 3
rubber tyres and 2 poly caps.
This QS-001 model faithfully replicates the small tail-less shape of Me-163B.
Two different weapon systems, MG 151/20 and MK 108 are provided.
Subassemblies including a complete HWK 109-509A rocket engine, T-Stoff tank
and ammunition box are included. A number of hatches may be built in either the
open or closed position. Model fuselage breakdown refers to the structure of real
aircraft. No cement is needed to join the front and rear parts of the fuselage. A
support frame is provided to show interior details. Three painting schemes
are provided.
In more news from MENG, a 1:48 scale Me 410 A-1 high speed bomber
will also be released.
We will have more information about these new releases in the next issue.
Thanks to Meng Model for the information and images www.meng-model.com
T
he Lockheed Martin
F-35 Lightning
II, a result of the
Joint Strike Fighter
program, is the most
advanced expression of
military aircraft to perform
close support and ground
attack duties. Its extreme
flexibility makes it suitable
also to the dogfighting
and to carry out missions of air superiority. The F-35 is a Fifth
generation jet fighter, with advanced stealth capability, that intended
to replace a wide range of existing fighter , strike and ground attack
aircraft of the Western Countries Air Forces.
The development project is based on three main models: the F-35A
is a convention take off and landing aircraft, the F-35B is a short
take off an vertical landing variant, and the F-35C is a carrier based
variant. Thanks to
its external wing
supports and its
internal bays the
Lightning II is able
to carry a wide
variety of offensive
weapons such as
cluster bombs,
laser-guided and GPS-guided bombs, air-to-surface missiles and
anti-ship missiles.
Italeri will release an all-new 1:72 scale kit of the F-35A Lightning II.
This kit will comprise 85 parts in total of which 7 parts for the
fuselage, 3 transparent parts and the remaining 75 parts for the rest
of the article.
Other features of our F-35A are the fully engraved panel lines,
weapons bay open and closed, canopy open and closed.
Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited for the information.
FORTHCOMING 1:72 F-35A
LIGHTNING II FROM ITALERI
p4 News 031.indd 4 26/09/2013 11:06
M
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odel by W
ayne H
ui
Get Creative!
HOBBYBOSS, VALLEJO, MODEL MASTER, MINIART, MASTER BOX, AK
INTERACTIVE, MIG PRODUCTIONS, PLUS MODEL AND MANY MORE...
Unit 6-10, Honeysome Ind Est., Honeysome Road, Chatteris, Cambs. PE16 6TG
www.creativemodels.co.uk Tel: +44(0)1354 760022
www.creativemodels.co.uk
p 05 CreativeModels 031.indd 1 27/09/2013 14:41
FEATURE ARTICLE: HobbyBoss 1:48 F44B Corsolr Kll Mo. 80388
KOREAN WAR
GROUND POUNDER
lhe Edllor bullds ond lmproves lhe new 1:48 scole HobbyBoss
F44B Corsolr uslng lhe lrue Delolls Cowllng ond Propeller Sel.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 6 27/09/2013 14:24
Aircraft Edition 7
T
he combat career of the F4U Corsair stretched
longer than almost any other WWII fighter
aircraft. The first of more than 12,000
Corsairs was produced in 1940, and the
last of these bent wing birds were still doing battle
above Central America nearly thirty years later.
The Vought Aircraft company had a strong
association with the US Navy during the inter
war decades, but their focus in the 1930s was
observation aircraft, trainers and seaplanes.
In response to a US Navy specification issued
in February 1938, Vought submitted two designs.
With the second of these carrier-based fighter
proposals, Vought adopted the simple strategy of
building the smallest possible airframe around the
most powerful available engine.
At the same time, Pratt & Whitney was
developing the supercharged R-2800 radial
engine. Radial engines had recently lost favour to
the sleeker inline configuration, but the US Navy
preferred the ruggedness and simplicity of the
radial arrangement. Vought therefore designed their
new V-166B around the Pratt & Whitney R-2800
powerplant.
The brute force of the R-2800 engine had to be
absorbed by a correspondingly large propeller.
With a diameter of 13 4, the Hamilton Standard
three-bladed propeller assembly was the largest
fitted to a fighter aircraft to that date.
This imposing propeller needed very high
ground clearance. Voughts solution was to install
an inverted gull wing. The main undercarriage was
fitted to the lowest point of the wing, improving
ground clearance for the propeller while still
permitting robust landing gear essential for carrier
landings. This design also lowered the profile of the
Corsair with the wings folded, and strengthened the
join with the fuselage via its sturdy central spar.
The result was the sole prototype XF4U-1, which
first flew on 29 May, 1940. The ruggedness of
Voughts design was proven at the end of that
maiden flight when the aircraft flipped after a
forced landing. Although the prototype was badly
damaged, it was repaired and flew again within
months. Indeed, before the end of 1940 the XF4U-
1 became the first US fighter aircraft to exceed 400
mph in level flight.
Further development was required to iron
out a number of undesirable flying and landing
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 7 27/09/2013 14:25
characteristics. In December 1942, the Corsair
commenced carrier trials. Ongoing problems
with poor pilot visibility on final approach and
premature port wing stall disqualified the Corsair
from US carrier operations at this time.
However, the first land based Corsair Marines
squadron entered front line service in February
1943. The famous Jolly Rogers, VF-17, became
the first US Navy Corsair unit to see action shortly
after. The Corsair immediately demonstrated
its superiority over Japanese fighters with an
impressive kill ratio. The performance of the F4U
also proved to be at least on equal footing with its
US Army Air Force fighter counterparts, the P-47
and the P-51.
The Corsair was also adopted by the British Fleet
Air Arm. Unlike the US Navy, Britain operated their
Corsairs on carriers from their first sorties in March
1944. With their strikes against the Tirpitz, the
Fleet Air Arm was the only Corsair operator to face
German forces.
US Navy Corsairs were eventually cleared for
carrier use in April 1944, in time to deal with the
Kamikaze threat later that year.
The Royal New Zealand Air Force was the third
Corsair operator in the Pacific. 238 F4U-1As,
126 -1Ds and 60 FG-1Ds served with 13 RNZAF
squadrons from May 1944.
Development of the Corsair continued throughout
the Second World War and beyond. When most
WWII fighters were being abandoned in the dawn
of the new jet age, the Corsair was adapted to
the times. Fitted with a more powerful version of
the R-2800 engine and equipped for even heavier
loads, the Corsair became a valuable close support
asset during the Korean War. Its ruggedness,
reliability and versatility made the Corsair ideal for
the harsh conditions encountered on ship and shore.
Even after the Korean War, the Corsair remained
a front-line aircraft in a number of theatres. The
French Navy operated the AU-1 and the F4U-7 in
Indochina, Algeria and during the Suez crisis, while
a handful of Latin American countries used Corsairs
in air-to-air combat until the end of the 1960s.
The Pratt & Whitney R-2800 engine had an
equally impressive record, with total production
exceeding 125,000 between 1939 and 1960.
An unique insight into the detail behind the wing leading edge intakes. Cylinder detail, including ignition wiring. An excellent overall view of the cylinders & front cover.
An aerial view of USS Princeton (CV-37 off Korea during 1951
(image courtesy Wikimedia Commons).
An F4U-4 under restoration at Yanks Museum in Chino California, photographed in August 2004.
A Vought F4U-4B Corsair of VF-113 aboard USS Princeton, off the coast
of North Korea during 1950. The pilot was Commander John Tex
ONeill. This is the subject of our modelling project (image courtesy
Wikimedia Commons).
A nice overhead view of an F4U-4 from VF-871 aboard USS Essex,
a retired WWII carrier that was recommissioned in 1951. The colour
of the worn deck and the markings are of interest (image courtesy
Wikimedia Commons).
An in flight view of an F4U-4B of VF-113 photographed in 1950(image courtesy
Wikimedia Commons).
F4U-4Bs of Marine Squadron VMF-323 aboard USS Badoeng
Strait in December 1951 (image courtesy Wikimedia
Commons).
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 8 27/09/2013 14:25
Aircraft Edition 9
Designation Characteristics Comments
US Versions
F4U-1 Original production version featuring "birdcage"
framed canopy and window in the bottom of the
cockpit. Armed with six .50 cal machine guns.
Bell shaped reduction gear housing.
F3A-1 Per F4U-1 or F4U-1A Brewster manufactured version of
the F4U-1 and F4U-1A. 735 built.
FG-1 Per F4U-1 or F4U-1A Goodyear manufactured version of
the F4U-1 and F4U-1A. In total,
Goodyear built 4,006 Corsairs of
all variants (FG-1 and FG-1D)
F4U-1B Some references state that this was a US
designation for FAA Corsair I. See specification
for Corsair I
F4U-1P F4U-1, F3A-1 or FG-1 fitted with a K-21 Small number of aircraft thus
aerial camera. modified
F4U-2 Night fighter version fitted with AIA radar in a 34 aircraft built to F4U-2 standards
streamlined wing pod. Outboard starboard
machine gun deleted. Otherwise similar
to F4U-1
F4U-1A Cockpit raised seven inches. Turtledeck windows Although uniquely identifiable, the
deleted. Canopy design improved. Wedge- F4U-1A was not distinguished as a
shaped spoiler fitted to starboard wing leading variant in Vought or US Navy
edge. Bottom cockpit window deleted during records. A total of 2,814 F4U-1s and
production run. New centreline rack for 1,000 lb F4U-1As were built by Vought.
bomb or 170 gal fuel tank introduced during
production run. Tail wheel strut lengthened by
6.48 inches during production run. Landing light
relocated from lower wing to wing leading edge.
F4U-1D Pylons added under each inner wing section. 1,685 produced.
Reduced diameter propeller (13' 1") introduced
during production run. Clear vision canopy
introduced during production run. Capacity to carry
up to eight rockets introduced during production run.
Rectangular cut-out step in starbaord inboard flap
introduced during production run.
FG-1D Per F4U-1D Goodyear manufactured version of
the F4U-1D
F4U-1C Armed with four 20mm cannon. Rocket capacity 200 built
reduced to two per wing. Clear vision canopy on
all but the first three examples. Otherwise similar
to F4U-1D.
F4U-4 Revised engine cowl, new chin intake and cowl flaps. Entered service in limited numbers
Cylindrical crankcase. Four-bladed propeller during Okinawa campaign in 1945.
assembly; Enlarged supercharger intakes. Cockpit Widespread use in Korea.
redesigned to include floor, enclosed side consoles, 2,045 built
new instrument panel, shorter control column, new
seat, armrests and a cigar lighter! Revised
windscreen and clear view canopy and introduced
during production. Armed with six .50 cal machine
guns. Cut-out step in flap covered by spring-loaded
door.
F4U-4B Armed with four M3 20mm cannon. Modified 297 built.
rocket mounts. Late production examples were
fitted with the higher canopy of the F4U-5.
Otherwise similar to F4U-4.
F4U-4P Photo reconnaissance variant. Majority were Production quantity unknown.
armed with four M3 20mm cannon. Possibly a sub set of F4U-4 and
Otherwise similar to F4U-4B. F4U-4B
F4U-5 Revised engine cowl with two air inlet scoops in 223 built
the cowl cheeks. Lengthened forward fuselage.
Metal sheet replacing fabric covered outer wing
panels. Canopy height increased including a
raised fairing on fuselage spine directly behind.
Armed with four M3 20mm cannon in heated
gun tubes. Mark 8 gyroscopic gun sight. Revised
and enlarged centreline pylon.
Designation Characteristics Comments
F4U-5N Night fighter fitted with AN/APS-19 or -19A radar 214 built
and adjustable scope in cockpit. Aerial pinball
device comprising one small reflective trihedral
prism on each wing and one on the tail. Light
beam projector fitted in the wing leading edge.
F4U-5NL All-weather night fighter with radar plus de-icer 101 built
boots on outer wing panels, horizontal and vertical
tail surfaces, deicer for the windscreen and deicer
shoes on the propeller blades. Otherwise similar
to F4U-5N.
F4U-5P One vertical and one oblique camera mounted in 30 built
lower rear fuselage behind slipstream deflector
fairings. Otherwise similar to F4U-5
AU-1 Low altitude, ground attack version. Redesigned Used in Korea exclusively by
forward cowl with cheek intakes deleted. Hard Marines units, then 25 delivered to
points for up to ten 5" HVAR rockets or bombs French forces. 111 built
plus capacity on centreline rack and inner wing
pylons.
F4U-7 F4U-5 airframe fitted with F4U-4 R-2800-18W 94 built specifically for France under
engine, including the -4 style of engine cowl with the Military Assistance Program.
one large chin intake. Hard points per AU-1.
F2G-1 Pratt & Whitney R-4360, 3,000 hp engine installed, Goodyear manufactured. Only five
requiring major modification to the nose of the examples produced. Some used as
Corsair including air intake on top of forward post-war racers
fuselage. Four bladed propeller assembly. Full
bubble canopy and cut down rear fuselage. Vertical
tail raised by 12 inches. Split rudder introduced.
Wing-mounted oil coolers redesigned. Cut-out step
in flap covered by spring-loaded door. Land-based
version with manual wing fold. No arrestor hook.
Otherwise similar to F4U-1D
F2G-2 Carrier based aircraft with hydraulic wing folds. Goodyear manufactured. Only five
Arrestor hook installed. Smaller diameter propeller examples produced. Some used as
assembly. Otherwise similar to F2G-1 post-war racers

Fleet Air Arm Versions
Production totals are subsets of the US Navy quantities above
Corsair Mk.I British Fleet Air Arm version of F4U-1 and F4U-1A. 45 F4U-1s and 50 F4U-1As.
Some of the -1As were apparently fitted with the All Vought built.
birdcage canopy, although the turtle deck window
seems to be deleted according to photos.
Corsair Mk.II Eight inches clipped from each wing tip. Fitted 360 F4U-1As and 150 F4U-1Ds.
with 13' 4" propeller and canopy with two All Vought built
overhead frames. British harness. Rockets do not
appear to have been installed. Otherwise similar
to either F4U-1A or F4U-1D, depending on batch.
Corsair Mk.III Brewster built versions of F4U-1A and F4U-1D. 335 F3A-1s and 95 F3A-1Ds.
Eight inches clipped from each wing tip. Brewster built. It is believed that
Similar specification to Corsair Mk.II these aircraft were not used
operationally due to production
problems.
Corsair Mk.IV Goodyear built versions of F4U-1A and F4U-1D. 410 FG-1s or FG-1As (no distinction
Eight inches clipped from each wing tip. 13' 1' made in US Navy records) and 447
propeller fitted. Canopies on the first 400 aircraft FG-1Ds. No evidence that rockets
had two overhead frames. Remaining aircraft had were carried in service.
clear vision "blown" canopy. Final 125 equipped to
carry eight 5" HVAR rockets. Otherwise similar
specification to Corsair Mk.II
F4U CORSAIR PRODUCTION VARIANTS AND CHARACTERISTICS
The table below lists the external characteristics that may help modellers identify Corsair variants.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 9 27/09/2013 14:25
THE F4U-4 CORSAIR IN 1:48 SCALE
Conslderlng lhe slgnlllconce ol lhe F44, ond
lls orguoble ronk os lhe besl ol oll lhe Corsolr
vorlonls, ll hos nol been porllculorly well
represenled ln 1:48 scole unlll now.
lhe llrsl 1:48 scole kll oll lhe ronk wos
Monogroms eorly 1P0svlnloge kll. lhls wos o
lyplcol producl ol lls doy wllh rolsed ponel llnes
ond poor deloll. ll sullered lrom o number ol
occurocy problems loo. lhe model wos lmproved
ln 1P83 wllh lhe oddlllon ol o new cockpll ond
replocemenl wheels, bul ll sllll belroyed lls veleron
slolus by lls loyllke loldlng wlngs ond relrocllng
undercorrloge.
Hosegowos 1:48 scole F44 ls olso on old
ollerlng wllh rolsed ponel llnes, on lncorrecl
englne ond very boslc deloll, bul lhe oulllne ls
occurole ond ll wos cerlolnly lhe besl opllon lor
lhls Koreon Vor llghler lor mony yeors. Hosegowo
olso releosed on F44B ln lhe 1PP0s. lhls wos
lhe some old F44 wllh whlle melol connon ond
rockel slubs. Mo ollempl wos mode lo deplcl lhe
revlsed wlng ponels lor lhe 20mm connon.
Acodemy ond Mlnlcroll bolh releosed o number
ol dlllerenl 1:48 scole klls ln lhe F44 ond
lomllles. All ol lhese Corsolrs ore peppered wllh
vorlous problems lncludlng wlde conoples ond
wlndscreens, soll deloll ond numerous lnoccurocles.
Hosegowos Corsolrs ore beller ln oll respecls.
Also ln 1:48 scole, Hosegowo releosed on
F4M kll ln 2000, closely lollowed by on F4Z
ond on A1. Allhough lhese models do nol oller
lhe opllon ol lolded wlngs ond leolure lolrly boslc
cockpll deloll, lhey ore neverlheless very good klls.
However, lhls serles ol newlool Corsolrs wos never
exlended lo lnclude lhe F44 or F44B.
CMK releosed o 1:48 scole resln F44
converslon lor lomlyos scole F41 klls. lhls ls
o comprehenslve ond hlghly delolled sel wllh
replocemenl lorword luseloge, englne cowl,
lowermld wlng secllon, cockpll, conlrol surloces,
propeller ossembly ond conopy. A pholoelched
lnslrumenl ponel ls olso supplled. l bulll lhls
converslon bock ln 2004 ond lhe resull ls on
occurole ond ollrocllve F44, bul ll does requlre
slgnlllconl work lo ochleve lhe resull.
HOBBYBOSS 1:48 F4U-4B
HobbyBoss' 1:48 scole F44B Corsolr comprlses
1P2 porls ln grey plosllc plus 11 cleor pleces.
Mouldlng quollly ls excellenl, ond lhe surloce
deloll ls qulle crlsp ond reslrolned. lhe cockpll
ond englne deloll ls reolly nlce. All lhe conlrol
surloces ore seporole ond moy be posed ln neulrol
or dellecled poslllons. lhe wlng lolds ore busy,
ond ll seems lhol lhe olrcroll's overoll shopes ore
occurole. Cpllons lnclude drop lonks ond rockel
slubs [bul no rockels|.
Cn lhe downslde, lhe wheels, prop blodes,
propeller boss ond lhe eluslve smlle" ol lhe englne
cowllng lnloke ore oll oll. lhe lronl ol lhe moln
undercorrloge boys, ond lherelore lhe lronl geor
covers, ore lncorreclly shoped. lhe lobrlc deloll
on lhe elevolors ls reolly nlce bul lnexpllcobly lhe
rudder leolures deep scollops. lhe wlng ponels
olso hove lolrly deep scollops bul lor some reoson
ll does nol seem os obvlous on lhe lorger surloces.
lhe llop covlly covers ore mlsslng lrom under
lhe wlngs ond lhe lnslrucllons ore prelly vogue ln
some lmporlonl oreos, mosl nolobly lhe loll geor
ond lhe lolded wlng opllon. Holes ore provlded lor
lhe lolded wlng broces bul lhe broces lhemselves
ore nol supplled. lhe cockpll ls very well done bul
lhe enllre lhrollle quodronl ls olso obsenl lrom lhe
porl sldewoll.
ln summory, l would soy lhol lhls ls o very nlce
model lhol hos been lel down by sloppy reseorch
ol lhe deslgn sloge.
Mony modellers wlll nol be bolhered by lhese
lssues ond wlll be hoppy lo bulld lhe kll slrolghl
lrom lhe box. ll wlll sllll look very much llke on F4
4B Corsolr, ond ll moy be orgued lhol lhls ls sllll
lhe besl 1:48 scole F44B kll ovolloble os ll ls.
However, ll ls nol dllllcull lo llll lhe HobbyBoss
F44B Corsolr lnlo o hlgher colegory wllh some
exlro work ond oller morkel porls.
SMILIN COWL
ln common wllh lhe FF Hellcol, lhe shope ol lhe
F44 Corsolrs englne cowllng, ond ln
porllculor lhe crescenlshoped lnloke ol
lls lower llp, hos proved eluslve lor mony
model monuloclurers.
lrue Delolls recenlly releosed o resln
F44 englne cowllng ond propeller
correcllon sel speclllcolly lor lhe
HobbyBoss kll. Allhough lhe dlllerences
ore sublle, l lhlnk lhe replocemenl cowl
ls on lmprovemenl over lhe kll porl. lhe
propeller blodes ond boss, on lhe olher
HobbyBoss 1:48 scale F4U-4B is the third release in their Corsair family.
Surface detail is very nicely done.
The lower centre section of the wings. Note the incorrect kinked
profile of the forward section of the undercarriage bays.
The rudder is moulded with overstated fabric texture.
The clear parts include two styles of sliding canopy section.
The wings feature separate access hatches for the cannon and
ammunition, but no internal parts are included for these.
Some of the True Details
accessories acquired for
this project. In the end,
I did not use the bombs.
These were substituted
with a Napalm tank.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 10 27/09/2013 14:25
Aircraft Edition 11
The kits engine cowling with its suspect smile. True Details corrected cowl, with the resin casting plug still in place.
A razor saw was used to cut off the main part
of the casting plug. This was not done in one
continuous cut. The saw was moved around the rim
of the plug to ensure that it was evenly removed.
The plug has been removed, but the opening in the cowl is too
small at this stage.
We can see the excess resin to be removed by viewing the cowl from
the inside.
The excess resin was first cut away with a sharp hobby knife, then cleaned up
with coarse sandpaper.
hand, are clearly much more accurate than
HobbyBoss propeller assembly.
The first task was to cut off the resin plug cast
to the front of the cowling. This was started with a
razor saw, cutting in stages from different angles
until the cowling was freed. This still left a ring of
resin that had to be removed in order to obtain
the correctly sized cowl opening. I started this job
with a sharp hobby knife, then cleaned up the
slightly ragged edges with a piece of rolled coarse
sandpaper.
INTERNAL AFFAIRS
Next I turned my attention to the cockpit. Unlike
the earlier F4U-1, the F4U-4 featured a completely
revised cockpit with a solid floor. This floor is
correctly depicted by HobbyBoss, with well-detailed
raised switches on the side consoles, deep structural
features on the sidewall, and a nicely done seat
and instrument panel. Strangely though, the
prominent throttle quadrant is missing. I scratch built
one from scrap plastic, with copper wire handles
and knobs of Krystal Kleer.
I found that the fire extinguisher, Part F34,
interfered with the fit of the instrument panel. You
should fill the locating slot in the floor and relocate
or discard this part.
The Interior Green shade was obtained by
adding a spot of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black with XF-71
Cockpit Green. This was applied to the floor parts,
the bulkheads, control column and seats. The side
consoles, sidewalls and instrument panel were all
sprayed black.
I borrowed Roy Sutherlands cockpit weathering
technique for this project. I mixed equal parts
Future floor polish and water, to which I added a
few drops of Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black. This
results in a very thin dark wash, which was brush
painted on all the cockpit surfaces. The result is
very effective, especially on the lattice structure of
the front firewall, but also looks great when it settles
into the edges of the seat pan, along recesses and
around smaller raised details. The same weathering
technique was applied to the tail wheel bay.
HobbyBoss provides a single decal with simple
white-printed dials for the instrument panel. This
matches the recessed circles on the kits instrument
panel quite well. The only problem is that the circles
are so deep that it takes a lot of decal solution to
get them settled in. I made three applications of
Solvaset before all the dials were in place, and a
few were damaged in the process. I overlaid these
with replacement instruments from AirScales Item
No. AS48USN WW2 US Navy Instrument Dial
Decals. A couple of placard decals were also
added from AS4848PLA WW2 Allied Cockpit
Placard Decals.
Details were now picked out with Vallejo acrylic
white, black, yellow and red paints applied with
the tip of 2/0 and 10/0 brushes.
A coat of Alclad II Klear Kote Matt was sprayed
over all the interior surfaces, dulling down the
glossy Future wash but retaining the subtle shading.
A little chipping was added to the floor and the
seat using dark brown and silver Prismacolor
pencils.
The deep instrument recesses were filled with
Future floor polish to represent the dial lenses.
Harness straps were not used as I was planning
to add a pilot. In fact, I originally thought that I
might have to build the pilots legs into the cockpit
and add the torso later (kit cockpits can be a tight
squeeze for scale pilots), but test fitting suggested
there would be plenty of room to fit the entire pilot
once the model was finished.
The cockpit parts were now glued together and
attached to the port sidewall.
STEAMING AHEAD
Construction proceeded quickly from here. The
instructions would have you install the tail landing
gear before gluing together the fuselage halves, but
I decided to leave this until later. With the benefit
of hindsight, I really should have followed the
instructions here, as I had to hack various locating
pins off the tail wheel assembly to fit it later on. The
instructions are pretty vague about the location of
The engine cowl with preparations complete.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 11 27/09/2013 14:25
porls on lhe loll wheel ossembly loo, so oddlllonol
relerence wlll be helplul.
l declded lo glue my wlng llops ln lhe rolsed
poslllon. Fll wos good, bul l hod lo scrolch bulld
lhe sprlnglooded covers lhol ore mlsslng lrom lhe
kll. lhls wos very eosy lhough l slmply cul slx
lenglhs ol lhln plosllc sheel ond glued lhem
ln ploce.
ll you plon lo pose lhe llops dropped, youll
need lo odd lhe wedgeshoped webblng belween
lhe polrs ol lnboord llops. lhese ore nol lncluded
ln lhe kll ellher, bul wlll be equolly eosy lo cul lrom
lhln plosllc cord.
Al lhls polnl l reshoped lhe lronl ol lhe londlng
geor boys by slmply lollowlng lhe ongled ponel
llne on ellher slde ol eoch boy wllh o shorp knlle.
l lhen used lhe lronl londlng geor covers lrom o
1:48 scole lomlyo F41A Corsolr os o lemplole lo
cul lwo new doors lrom plosllc cord.
lhe lnboord wlng ossembly ond horlzonlol
loll plones were olloched lo lhe luseloge wllh no
problems.
lhe deeply scolloped lobrlc lexlure on lhe rudder
wos lllled wllh lomlyo Surlocer ond sonded lo
subdue lhe excesslve ellecl.
l reploced lhe kll londlng geor ond wlng lold
hlnges wllh whlle melol porls lrom Scole Alrcroll
Converslons [llem Mo. SAC48184|. l hove
somellmes hod my doubls oboul lhe uselulness ol
whlle melol undercorrloge legs, bul melol wlng
lolds ore o greol ldeo os lhere wlll be plenly ol
opporlunlly lo od|usl lhe ongles ol lhe hlnges oller
lhe wlng ponels ore glued ln ploce.
Acluolly lhe whlle melol geor legs were reolly
hondy lhls llme loo, os l wos oble lo od|usl lhe
ongles ol lhe legs ond lhe oxles. l glued lhe melol
londlng geor ln ploce ol lhls unusuolly eorly sloge
becouse ll wos polnled Glossy Seo Blue, lhe some
os lhe resl ol lhe olrcroll.
lhe ouler wlng ponels were ossembled ond lesl
lllled, bul nol glued ln ploce |usl yel.
A throttle
quadrant was
scratch built
from plastic
scrap, copper
wire and blobs
of Krystal Kleer.
A few
electrical
boxes were
added to
the opposite
sidewall.
The two parts of each
side console were clamped
together before painting.
Cockpit parts were prepared and separated into
one group that would be painted Interior Green,
and a second group that would be painted black.
The cockpit under construction,
with weathering and detail
painting complete.
The forward bulkhead,
showing the results of
the Future and black paint
weathering technique to
good effect.
The instrument
panel with its
decal dials.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 12 27/09/2013 14:25
Aircraft Edition 13
The lower floor
section with the
control column
glued in place.
The port sidewall with the painted throttle quadrant. The structural detail on the tail wheel bay
interior looks great after weathering.
The completed cockpit
a view from the rear.
The cockpit was glued
onto the port side of
the fuselage before the
halves were joined.
ENGINE ADDITIONS
AND SUBTRACTIONS
HobbyBoss Pratt & Whitney R-2800
engine is a highlight of the kit. It
does not really look like much on
the sprues, but it is brilliant when
assembled. I added ignition wires
from 0.2mm dark copper wire.
The cylinder banks were coated
with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver
straight from the spray can, while the
housing and magnetos were painted grey
and the ignition harness picked out in Gunzes Mr
Metal Colour Brass. The Future/Water/Black wash
was used to good effect on all of these parts. The
grey housing was given a flat coat and details
picked out in silver.
The instructions are a bit vague on the exact
placement of engine parts. They would have you
install the engine before the fuselage halves are
joined, but you can simply leave off Parts E3, E17
and E18 and the engine mount will slip into the
front of the completed fuselage at any later stage.
The individual exhaust pipes also proved to be
very fiddly. Youll barely be able to see anything of
these, even through open cowl flaps, so I decided
to leave them off!
EXTRA EXTRA
I sourced a drop tank from the spares box
(originally in a Tamiya P-51D Mustang kit) that I
used as a napalm tank. Just for a bit of variety, I
painted this yellow and added some chipping and
staining.
The delicate aerial mast was drilled and pinned
with copper wire to strengthen the bond with the
fuselage, although it was only added at the very
end of construction.
The True Details propeller was assembled at
this time too. The hub and the mating ends of the
blades were also drilled and pinned with a short
piece of copper wire. The assembly was masked
and sprayed, and initially the kit propeller decals
were used. However, they looked way too big,
so I removed them and replaced them with items
from the Victory Productions F4U-5/5N & AU-1
Corsairs decal sheet, Item No. VPD48001.
True Details wheels were used to replace the
slightly odd-looking HobbyBoss items. The True
Details wheels from Set No. 48013 feature
appropriate late-style circumferential tyre tread.
The pilot was taken from Tamiyas 1:48 scale
F4U-1D with Moto-Tug boxing, as were the two
wing braces.
The fuselage halves fitted
without any problems.
Clamps and tape are a
security measure!
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 13 27/09/2013 14:25
The mid-wing components.
Note the location of the middle bulkhead (Parts E19 and
E20). The instructions are a bit vague about these, with
only a general diagram on Part E20 and not illustrating
Part E19 at all.
This is how I fitted Parts E27 and E28; although the instructions
actually illustrate them fitted the opposite side out. They seem
to fit better this way though, and it makes more sense that the
raised detail faces out. Even after looking at reference photos
though, I am not certain.
The mid wing assembly
glued and clamped.
The main outer wing panel parts. The outer wing panels assembled, with the spring-loaded flap cavity covers being added from plastic strip.
The main engine sub-assemblies after
painting and a Future dark wash.
Holes were drilled into the front of
the cylinders and lengths of 0.2mm
dark copper wire were glued in
place. Pairs of wire were also glued
to the back of the ignition harness.
The engine after further
detail painting, a flat coat for
the front housing and final
assembly.
The engine slips snugly into the
mount at the front of the fuselage if
Parts E3, E17 and E18 are omitted.
Youd never have seen them anyway!
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 14 27/09/2013 14:25
Aircraft Edition 15
The rudder trim tab actuator was cut off in preparation for the taming of the deep fabric
texture.
The capsule indentations were filled with Tamiya
Surfacer
then sanded down to subdue the texture effect.
The centre wing section glued in place. Note that the shape of the forward
undercarriage bay areas have been corrected.
The original HobbyBoss forward gear door (left), and the
replacement cut from plastic card using Tamiyas F4U-1A part
as a template. Not perfect, but better!
The fuselage and tail planes assembled, with a few lines of Tamiya Surfacer
to deal with minor blemishes and gaps.
Scale Aircraft Conversions white metal landing gear and wing fold hinges
were used for this project.
The white metal main landing gear
legs and scratch build front gear covers
were glued in place prior to painting.
The outer wing panels were test fitted
at this stage. So far, so good.
True Details recently
released a resin F4U-4
engine cowling and propeller
correction set specifically for
the HobbyBoss kit.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 15 27/09/2013 14:26
I GUESS THATS WHY THEY
CALL IT GLOSS SEA BLUE
Polnllng wos very losl. ln locl, l dld nol even bolher
prlmlng lhe model.
lomlyo AS8 Movy Blue wos opplled slrolghl
lrom lhe sproy con, lhen lhe rudder llp wos mosked
ond sproyed lomlyo /14 Sky Blue. lhe solln llnlsh
wos lronslormed lo o hlghgloss luslre oller severol
cools ol Fulure lloor llnlsh ond pollshlng wllh Mlcro
Mesh clolhs.
Morklngs were sourced lrom Culllng Edge sheel
no. CED482P, F44 Corsolr Porl 3".
ln my oplnlon, one ol lhe keys lo ochlevlng o
convlnclng Gloss Seo Blue llnlsh ls brlghl whlle
morklngs. Culllng Edges decols dellvered lhls
beoulllully, wllh no evldence ol lhe dork blue
polnl showlng underneolh lhe crlsp whlle decols.
nlorlunolely, l hod used lhe slors ond bors lrom
lhls Culllng Edge decol sheel on my 2004 F44
bulld, so l hod lo use lhe HobbyBoss nollonol
morklngs. lhese were nol qulle os opoque os lhe
Culllng Edge decols, ond os o resull lhe whlle dld
nol molch lhe resl ol lhe morklngs. l rllled lhrough
my decol drowers ond lound o second sel ol
nollonol morklngs lhol molched lhe slze ol lhe kll
decols. lhe slors ond bors were corelully sllced
lrom lhe decol sheel, ond opplled dlreclly over lhe
kll decols. lhls second loyer resulled ln o brlghl
whlle sel ol S morklngs lo molch lhe Culllng
Edge decols.
lwo oddlllonol cools ol Fulure seoled lhe decols.
Pholos ol lhls olrcroll show ll lo be ln prlsllne
condlllon, so lhe only weolherlng wos o llllle
dusllng ol lhe lyre sldewolls uslng lomlyos
Veolherlng Poslels.
lhe vorlous elemenls undercorrloge doors,
wheels, drop lonk, Mopolm lonk, propeller,
conopy, lhe lolded ouler wlng ponels, lhe wlng
lold broces ond lhe onlenno were now broughl
logelher lo complele lhe model.
The tip of the rudder was painted a pale blue shade. This area was masked off
using Tamiya tape and Post-It Notes, and painted Tamiya X-14 Sky Blue.
The main airframe, the outer wing panels and
detail parts were all painted Tamiya AS-8
Navy Blue, straight from the spray can.
Several coats of Future floor
polish transformed the satin
finish to a high gloss.
The HobbyBoss decals were slightly translucent, with some of
the blue paint below bleeding through the white markings.
A second set of national markings was sourced from the
decal drawers. The stars and the bars were carefully sliced
from the sheet using a new hobby blade.
These were lined up on top of the kit decals, resulting in an
opaque bright white. Note here that the additional star and
the right side bar have been applied, while the left side bar
awaits its second layer.
The satin finish was transformed to a high-gloss
lustre after several coats of Future floor finish and
polishing with Micro Mesh cloths.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 16 27/09/2013 14:26
Aircraft Edition 17
True Details cowling set includes a replacement resin propeller assembly.
This is very clearly superior in shape to the kit propeller blades and hub.
The propeller blade locating plugs are very short,
so they were drilled and reinforced with copper wire.
The assembled
propeller was first
coated with Tamiyas
Fine White Primer,
then the tips were painted Tamuya TS-34
Camel yellow and the end of the propeller
hub X-14 Sky Blue. The propeller tips and the
hub end were then masked.
The next step was to
spray the propeller
blades TS-14 Black. This is a
very glossy lacquer, so no further
preparation is required before decals
are applied. The kit propeller logo
decals are too large, however.
The Pratt & Whitney
logo decals were
replaced with
markings from a
Victory Productions sheet. The
propeller blades were flat coated,
but the blue hub remains glossy.
A yellow Napalm tank was added
for a bit of colour variation. This was
weathered a little, with dark brown
chipping applied with a sponge and
stains using AK Interactives AK 024 -
Dark Streaking Grime.
The aerial mast was drilled and pinned with copper
wire to reinforce the join with the fuselage spine.
True Details resin
wheels feature the late
circumferential tyre tread.
A colour photo suggests that the wheel hubs
are Gloss Sea Blue. The sidewalls of the tyres
were dusted with Tamiyas Weathering Pastels.
Smaller parts ready
for final assembly.
The outer wing panels with pitot tube and nav lights already
fitted. Note that the reference photo shows that only the rocket
stubs underneath the outboard cannon fairings were fitted.
The main airframe awaiting
the addition of the wing
panels and minor parts.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 17 27/09/2013 14:26
HobbyBoss 1:48 F4U-4B Corsair is a
nice kit, and is arguably the best F4U-4B
currently available in this scale.
CONCLUSION
HobbyBoss 1:48 F44B Corsolr ls o nlce kll, ond
ls orguobly lhe besl F44B currenlly ovolloble ln
lhls scole.
ll you ore bolhered by ony ol lhe omlsslons or
lnoccurocles, lhey ore eoslly oddressed wllh some
boslc scrolch bulldlng ond reodlly ovolloble oller
morkel porls.
l lound lhls lo be on en|oyoble pro|ecl, ond l om
very hoppy wllh lhe llnol resull.
The pilot was borrowed from Tamiyas F4U-1D and Moto-Tug kit. His head
was primed white, with the body receiving a coat of Tamiya Grey Primer.
Base colours are Vallejo acrylics. Details were also picked out in Vallejo acrylics.
The folded wings are
almost insect-like.
The familiar profile of the
bent-wing bird, with the wings
a bit more bent than usual!
The shell ejection ports for the
20mm cannon were covered
with painted decal film.
The yellow Napalm tank
and the blue tips on the
hub and fin lend a bit of
colour to this project.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 18 27/09/2013 14:26
Aircraft Edition 19
MODELSPEC:
HobbyBoss 1:48 F4U-4B Corsair. Kit No. 80388
Accessories Used:
True Details Item No. 48552 F4U-4 Propeller and Cowling Set
True Details Item No. 48013 F4U or F6F Wheel Set
Circumferential Tread
Airscale Item No. AS48 PLA WW2 Allied Cockpit Placards.
Airscale Item No. AS48 USN WW2 US Navy Instrument Dial
Decals
Parts from Tamiya Kit No. 61085 F4U-1D Corsair with Moto-Tug
Cutting Edge Modelworks Item No. CED48269 F4U-4 Corsair
Part 3
Tools and Modelling Products Used:
Plastic Strip
Tuner Model Manufactory 0.2mm Soft Metal Wire Dark Copper
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
Revell Contacta Cement
Gators Grip Acrylic Glue
Selleys Super Glue
Tamiya Surfacer
Zip Kicker (super glue accelerator)
Tamiya Masking Tape
Steel Rule
Post-It Notes
Iwata HP-TR and HP-CP airbrushes
Paints and Finishing Products Used:
Tamiya (acrylic): X-14 Sky Blue; X-18 Semi-Gloss Black; X-25 Clear
Green; X-27 Clear Red; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-2 Flat White; XF-64 Red
Brown; XF-69 NATO Black.
Tamiya Spray Can White Primer; Grey Primer; AS-8 Navy Blue;
AS-12 Bare Metal Silver; TS-14 Black; TS-34 Camel Yellow.
Gunze-Sangyo Mr Metal Color 219 Brass.
Vallejo Model Color (acrylic): 70865 Oily Steel; 919 Foundation
White; 70950 Black; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70957 Flat Red; 70950
Black.
Alclad II Lacquer Klear Kote Matte
Testors Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer Finish
Solvaset decal setting solution
Future Floor Polish
AK Interactive AK 024 - Dark Streaking Grime
Crisp and restrained panel lines; very good cockpit and engine
detail; good fit; wings may be folded or extended; useful
options including drop tanks, separate flaps and poseable
canopy sliding section.
Some poorly shaped and missing detail parts; overstated
fabric detail on rudder; instructions are vague in places.
Rating: 7.5 out of 10
Thanks to Creative Models Limited for the sample
www.creativemodels.co.uk
The pilot fitted easily inside the cockpit.
The wing braces were
trimmed, painted and glued in
place only after the outer wing
panels were glued in place.
p 06-19 F4U 031B.indd 19 27/09/2013 14:26
NAKED
NATTER
FEATURE ARTICLE: Fly Models 1:32 Bochem Bo 34PV Moller Kll Mo. 32001
p20-31 feature article - natter 031.indd 20 26/09/2013 12:15
Aircraft Edition 21
I
f any aircraft type ever really exhibited the raw
level of desperation to which Germany had
sunk in the latter stages of WWII, then surely the
Bachem Ba 349V Natter has to be pretty high
on the list.
The Natter, designed by Erich Bachem, was
intended for use as a point-defence interceptor
that would be deployed from a vertical stance
when enemy bombers were about to pass
overhead. Once deployed, the intention was
to head towards the bomber stream, align the
Natter and launch a salvo of 24 R4M rockets
towards its target. A single rocket hit could bring
a bomber down, so a whole salvo would have
been devastating.
The Ba 349 Natter (Viper) would be launched
from a vertical tower, or from a stripped pine
tree, rising on both Walther rocket and rocket
booster power. The journey to the bomber stream
would be conducted under autopilot, with this
being disengaged by the pilot at altitude. Once
his salvo of rockets was fired, the pilot would
bail out of his aircraft on a parachute, whilst the
rear fuselage that contained the Walther rocket
motor would land with its own chute. The entire
forward fuselage containing the fuel tanks, cockpit
and wings, would essentially be disposable. The
weapon could have been devastating, especially
as under glider trial, the Natter was found to have
excellent flying characteristics for its intended
role. Only one manned flight was conducted, with
the pilot being killed. This was the worlds first
vertical manned rocket launch. Despite this, if the
war had been prolonged, Germany could indeed
have operated this machine that had now gone
into production. At the wars end, they were found
scattered around various launching locations
throughout the defunct Third Reich.
WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM
YOUR FRIENDS
All modellers go through it at some
stage. Burnout. It affects all of us
differently. For me, its not a case of
losing mojo, but it is about not being
able to translate the things I have
learned into practical ability.
Sometimes an injection of inspiration
is whats needed to kick-start the creative
processes, and luckily for me, inspiration hit at just
that right time. In May 2013, I had a trip planned
to visit Munich, and my good friend Alex Glass of
Uschi van der Rosten suggested that we meet up,
have something to eat, a few drinks, and talk of
project work. Well, I sure didnt want to decline
that offer.
Alex had brought me a few sample sheets of his
latest wood grain decals and an example of his
work with them. Knowing I was going through a
burnout period, he had an idea to kick-start those
creative processes, and his solution was to build
a model as a study of the real construction of an
actual aircraft. But this had to be all or mostly
timber, in order to utilise the wood grain decal.
Alexs suggestion was the 1:48 DML Bachem Ba
349 Natter.
Now Im a large scale guy, so I pondered
this before realising that I had the Czech 1:32
Fly Model Ba 349V kit languishing in the lowest
depths of my stash. Of course, I jumped at the
chance to do something a little different and out of
my comfort zone.
The meeting with Alex in that beautiful
restaurant in Unterschleiheim did indeed seem
like provenance.
FAITH RESTORED
The Fly Model Ba 349V is one of only two 1:32
scale Natter kits on the market, with the other being
the Ba 349A from the same manufacturer. These
kits are somewhat reminiscent of Special Hobby
kits in terms of plastic colour and property, as
well as detail levels. Typically, they are short-run,
low pressure, injection moulded kits, and whilst
I typically build kits which are from the likes of
Tamiya and Wingnut Wings etc., the subject of the
Natter is one that I perhaps realised Id one day
attempt, although I certainly never envisaged doing
it in this manner.
Flys 1:32 scale Ba 349V is actually a very
nice kit with some excellent surface detail. Some
detail is perhaps a little ragged and not up to
CAD standard, but overall, this is a simple kit of
what was essentially a very simple aircraft. I was
already weighing up how to make minor changes
to improve the overall appearance of the model,
both internally and externally, whilst still needing
to get my head around needing to complete this in
a relatively quick time in order to restart my mojo.
Moulded in a quite soft, light grey styrene, the
Fly Ba 349V is spread over three sprues, which
also include parts for the A variant, as well as an
alternative nose, solid canopy hood and a replica
of the transportation/construction frame that can
James Hatch addresses modellers burnout with a
unique approach to an equally unique subject
Fly Models 1:32 scale Bachem Natter in a bare
timber finish.
This seemed such a simple kit
that I couldnt resist a test fit
of the main components.
As the mating surfaces of the fuselage were a little rough, I decided to clean them up by running over a
sheet of 240 grit paper.
I decided to use the joint
holes for the wing for
fitting a toothpick spar
instead, so I opened them
up with a drill.
After base coating the interior
in Tamiya Flesh, I misted a little
Radome into the panel centres.
Tamiya Smoke was then used to darken recesses and panel lines.
The whole interior was then balanced out
with a misted coat of Tamiya Flesh and then
sprayed with Klear.
Uschi van der Rosten Ronny Bar edition wood-
grain decal was then fitted to all interior parts.
Aircraft Edition 23
be seen in many period images of the Natter.
There were a few ragged edges to some parts
and a certain amount of flash that would have to
be dealt with. Also included with this kit was a
bag of resin and a couple of small frets of photo-
etched parts. The resin parts, which included
the pilot seat, R4M rocket tubes, control surface
actuators, solid rocket booster nozzles, forward
cockpit bulkhead, booster rocket spacer blocks,
cockpit control cable pulleys, Walther rocket
motor exhaust etc, were superbly cast, having
some exceptional finesse and detail to them. No
fault could be found anywhere, and removal from
casting blocks would be easy to achieve.
A small decal sheet was also included, but for
the purpose of this project I had no intention of
using any of those, with the idea being to recreate
the Natter as it looked, sans paint. The photo-
etched frets contained parts to strap the solid
rocket boosters to the rear fuselage, as well as
a set of seatbelts for the pilot. Im not big fan of
PE belts, so these would be replaced with an RB
Productions set. More on this later in the article.
LETS GET NAKED!
To create the Ba 349 as I wished to, complete
with the rocket boosters already fitted yet no paint,
I knew that what I was going to aim for was a
compromise, with a certain degree of stylisation
and artistic licence. A sort of an anatomy of
but without all the panels and ports open as you
sometimes see in such projects. Strangely enough,
the one thing the kit didnt supply was the clear
perspex nose that covered the rockets on take-off,
or even the rockets. This didnt really matter though,
as it was the timber aspect I wanted to create,
along with the natural metal boosters.
The first task was to remove the fuselage halves
from their sprue in order to ascertain just how
friendly this kit would be to assemble, and to test
fit to see how well they matched. The actual match
was as good as any regular injection kit, but of
course without the locating pins that the latter has.
The mating surfaces were also a little rough in
places. To fix this, a sheet of 240 grade Wet n
Dry paper was laid out, and each fuselage half
taken in turn and gently ground against the paper
in order to level things out a little. About half a
dozen or so passes each, and the job was done.
Temporarily mating the two together proved that
everything lined up with no having to push and
pull the plastic to make it conform.
The Natter more than likely had a lot of its
panel seams filled with putty and rubbed back
before the airframe was painted. It was pretty
obvious from looking at the exterior of the
moulded parts, that there werent enough panel
lines to satisfy what I needed to achieve. Using
my personal reference material, coupled with a
trawl of the Internet, yielded some very useful
images of the Natter under construction in the
Bachem workshops. These photos were of actual
fuselage and sub-assembly construction, as well as
a completed skeletal airframe which was used as
an instructional item to show assemblers how the
finished thing should look. This proved invaluable
for my project.
With this reference material, I started to mark
out the exterior of the fuselage in soft pencil,
before making some Dymo-tape guides and
scribing the missing panel lines which I would
need to create these extra wooden panels. My
Cockpit interior areas were then painted with Vallejo paint, and some
Airscale placards used to liven up the quite basic interior.
A poor area of this kit is the
scribed bolt ports around the fuselage
circumference. I opened these up, blanked
them from the rear and added Masterclub resin rivets to
simulate the bolts.
The fuselage with
all internals closes
up very nicely!
Many panel lines were left off this kit as they
would be puttied underneath a paint scheme.
My job was to reinstate them so the wooden
panels could be used to best effect.
The wing joints were levelled by
rubbing over 240 grit paper
and then drilled out to match
the toothpick spare locations
drilled into the wing roots.
24 Military Illustrated Modeller - Novemberr 2013
weopon ol cholce lor scrlblng ls lhe excellenl
GSl Creos lool, wllh hordened, lnlerchongeoble
llps. lhe beouly ol lhls lool ls lhol ll doesnl
creole lurrows os ll works. ll cleonly removes oll
molerlol ln o unllorm monner, ond wllh no reol
need lo slorl removlng ony rolsed edges. Mol o
cheop lool, bul one worlhy ol conslderollon. l wos
hoppy lhol l hod recreoled lhe ponel llnes lolrly
occurolely, ond cerlolnly lncluded lhe mo|orlly ol
lhem. lhe worllme lmoges could be o llllle dllllcull
lo properly lollow.
HAVING A BLAST
Cne olher oreo ol lhe exlerlor lhol needed o llllle
ollenllon wos lhe |uncllon belween lhe lorword ond
reor luseloge. lhe reor luseloge, whlch conlolned
lhe Vollher rockel molor, wos secured lo lhe
lorword secllon vlo o serles ol explodlng bolls.
lhe occess lo lhese bolls, ln order lo olloch lhe
lwo luseloge secllons, wos vlo o serles ol recessed
slols lhol were cul lnlo lhe llmber. lhe Fly Model kll
hos lhese slmply scrlbed, bul lo moke lhem look o
llllle more occurole, lhey needed lo be drllled oul.
lhls wos done wllh o sel ol mlcrodrllls ond o lresh
Swonn Morlon Mo.11 scolpel blode. Cnce cleoned
oul, o smoll plece ol Evergreen plosllcord wos used
lo blonk lhe hole lrom lnslde. Loler ln conslrucllon,
o smoll hole would be drllled lnlo lhe blonklng
plece ond o resln Moslerclub rlvel glued ln ploce lo
slmulole lhe connecllng boll heod.
lhe only elemenl ol luseloge conslrucllon lhol
porllculorly bolhered me wos keeplng lhe luseloge
holves properly ollgned once glue wos opplled,
desplle lhelr good lll. lo remedy o polenllol
problem, l glued o very norrow slrlp ol 1mm
plosllcord olong lhe lnslde ol lhe upper splne
ond lower belly ol lhe Moller. lhese were glven
o sublle chomler ln order lo occommodole lhe
curved nolure ol lhe luseloge secllon. lhe cemenl
ol cholce lor lhls ond mosl ol my plosllc bullds ls
lomlyo Exlro lhln cemenl. For dellcole |obs llke
lhls, ll excels. A 2mm drlll bll wos olso employed
lo open up lhe wlng mounllng holes ln lhe rool
oreo, ond lo qulckly llollen oll lhe |olnl wllh o
sondlng sllck.
Conslrucllon llsell beglns, nol unusuolly, wllh lhe
cockpll. ll you were expecllng o lonlosllcolly hlgh
lech ollolr, lhen youd be dlsoppolnled. lhe Moller
cockpll mokes mosl VVl olrcroll lnlerlors look
complex. Donl lorgel, lhls polnllnlerceplor wos
more or less dlsposoble, so oll lhol wos needed
were lhe obsolule boslcs. Probobly lhe orlglnol
no lrllls olrcroll. Desplle lhe reol Moller belng
polnled exlernolly, ll mode loglcol sense lhol lhe
Germons wouldnl hove expended ony llme ond
cosl on polnllng lhe lnlerlor. Even ll lhey hod, my
remll wos lo produce o llnlsh lhol showed molerlol
Test fitting shows that the plan
worked, with the wings sitting
perfectly level.
All flying surfaces were now
assembled and cleaned up.
At this point, I shifted from Tamiya to Gunze paint,
airbrushing the exterior in gloss Flesh.
Pre-shading was completed with a heavy burst of
gloss Black. I wanted to accentuate the eventual
shading more than I would with a painted scheme.
Gunze Radome balanced out the shading and base-
coat, before highlighting panel centres in Radome +
white. A final Radome coat was then applied.
Aircraft Edition 25
All modellers go through it at some stage. Burnout.
I decided to mask off a few panels and give a light
misting of Flesh. This would help to give a visible
tint to these wooden panels.
Note the tinted panels at the rear of the fuselage.
Armed with just about every Uschi
wood grain decal set, I started the
most enjoyable task of this project.
To transfer the shape of the panel to
the decal sheet, I used Kabuki tape.
This was then stuck to a card
background, and cut to shape
...before transferring the shape to the
decal paper.
Instant wood! No need
for real veneers!
The fuselage took around a
day of fairly light work to
complete.
The canopy parts were masked
off prior to airbrushing in
Gunze Flesh.
Applying the decals transforms
the parts totally.
The main canopy
part complete.
We certainly cant forget the
non-wooden parts. The rocket
boosters are now assembled.
Alclad Dark Aluminium is a great colour for natural metal. This was
then sealed with Humbrol Gloss Clear.
The rocket booster packs
were then assembled
and a Blue-Grey
Humbrol wash applied.
I didnt want to use copper paint
to replicate the exterior windscreen
framework, so I opted to use real
copper in the form of self-adhesive
tape. This was then riveted with an
MDC tool.
Aircraft Edition 27
construction. To this end, Uschi van der Rosten
woodgrain decal would be used here.
The resin and plastic bulkheads were first test
fitted and trimmed to ensure a good, close fit to
their surroundings. I didnt want a tight fit here as
I needed to apply no less than 4 coats of paint, a
decal layer and a sealing varnish coat.
INTRODUCING USCHI
Uschi woodgrain decal isnt the simple option, or
an artistic cop-out at all. The various products are
all printed with a translucent base. This means that
the preparation work needed before you can apply
any decal pieces is vitally important to the ultimate
finish. Perhaps there is more effort and preparation
work for this than with the oil-drag method of
applying wood grain.
I am well-acquainted with Uschi decal, yet I
painted the interior base colours with Tamiya
paints that have a darker hue than their Gunze
equivalents. The result was perhaps a darker
interior than I would have wanted, so for the
exterior, I switched to Gunze.
Firstly, the interior walls were given a coat of
Tamiya Flesh. In order not to make things in there
look too dank and dark, I used Tamiya Smoke
to highlight the edges and corners that existed.
After a quick coat of Klear to seal, I used Model
Master Radome to accentuate the centres of the
panels and other open spaces. As I have said, this
arrangement of paints would be ditched later in
the build. To balance out the rather garish finish,
a thinned coat of Radome was applied overall,
followed by a few thin coats of Tamiya Flesh. This
has the effect of creating highlights and lowlights/
shadows to the various areas, giving them a visual
depth. Everything was then given a gloss finish by
brush painting Klear.
For the decaling, I used Uschis rich Ronny
Bar wood decal sheet, as I had a few pieces of
this left from a previous project. Each piece was
applied using a little Mr Mark setter to help drift
things into position before being patted down with
a cotton bud. Once all decaling was done, it was
sealed with a coat of Klear.
The cockpit, despite its quite sparse
appearance, still has enough to catch the eye of
those who like to office gaze, as I put it. I didnt
want to go all out here and start modifying pieces,
and getting all anal about the various aspects. A
reproduction Natter cockpit image I have seen still
showed this aspect of the aircraft to have quite
simplistic controls. As a result, there would be no
real modification of kit parts in this area as they
were still very representative of the actual aircraft.
The pilots bulkhead required a headrest
framework attaching. This was decaled at the
same time as the rest of the interior, and then
fitted. A couple of support rails were fitted behind
this from the resin parts supplied in the kit. These
were painted in Gunze Chrome. The lower
headrest rail appears to be a little darker in my
photos. This is due to me applying two layers of
decal here, which has the effect of making things
look a little richer in colour.
Other cockpit detail was finished in a
combination of Gunze and Vallejo paints,
mostly applied with a detail brush. I decided to
rig the rudder pedals with a little EZ Line. This
was passed through two holes I drilled into the
bulkhead, below the pilots seat. The control
cables were also rigged, through a pulley system
from the cockpit floor through to the seat bulkhead
and beyond. As I needed a little rigidity in these
cables because they pass down the cockpit wall, I
used fine detailing lead wire. These were clipped
to the cockpit wall with two small pieces of Tamiya
tape, painted silver. Some interior parts had a pin
wash applied to them to accentuate any detail.
For this, I used Mig Dark Wash and a 0000 size
brush. The forward bulkhead was then fitted using
The wooden Bachem carrier frame was then assembled.
This was given the same treatment as the aircraft, but finished
with Uschi planking decal for the side planks.
Photo-etched parts were used to mount
the rocket boosters to the fuselage. The
decal was removed in these places and
CA used to fix the metalwork.
Booster packs are now attached
and all of a sudden, this little
aircraft begins to look very
purposeful.
CA ond occelerolor so lhol ll would gel on lnslonl
bond ond nol move ol oll.
Cne reolly nlce ospecl ol lhe cockpll ls lhe
lnslrumenl ponel. lhls wos ogoln llnlshed wllh
wood groln decol ond lhe delolls plcked oul
wllh Volle|o polnl. l used lhe excellenl Alrscole
lnslrumenl decols on here, opplled over o cool
ol Kleor. Vhllsl my Alrscole pockel wos opened,
l olso odded o smoll number ol lhelr Lullwolle
Plocords ln order lo glve lhe cockpll o llllle more
lnleresl. l dld llnd lhol lhe lnslrumenl coomlng,
whlch exlends reorword lrom lhe lorword
wlndscreen, lo be o bll ol on onomoly. l qulckly
removed lhls, whlch ocluolly glves o much beller
vlew ol lhe lnslrumenl ponel when lhlngs ore
closed up.
lhe pllols seol wos essenllolly o serles ol
wooden slrlps slung belween lwo slde pleces.
lhe kll porl ls cosl ln resln, ond here l declded
lo sproy lhe porl wllh lomlyo Deck lon belore
opplylng on olldrog wood ellecl. Mosl oll wos
ocluolly removed os l wonled o very pole llnlsh.
Cnce glued lnlo poslllon wllh CA, l lhen mode up
o sel ol Rodu Brnzons superb poper ond pholo
elch seolbells. l declded lo opl lor lhe lole wor
green Krylon lype, slmply lo breok up lhe brown
lones ol lhe pll. Pleose remember lhol lhe Moller
only ever llew once wllh o pllol, Lolhor Sleber,
ond he wos kllled. lhls Moller represenls whol
would hove been o proboble producllon mochlne,
ond lo lhls end, lhe green bells could well hove
been lnslolled, hod lhe pro|ecl nol come lo o holl
due lo lhe end ol lhe wor.
lhe seol bells were od|usled lo sull lhe
lnlernol loyoul ol lhe Moller, ond lnslolled uslng
CA. lmporlonlly, youll see no weolherlng here.
Agoln, we ore lrylng lo represenl on olrcroll
whlch would only ever lly once, ond cerlolnly
one whlch dlsploys conslrucllonol lechnlque
only.
Al lhe some llme l decoled lhe lnlerlor lo
resemble wood, l olso decoled lhe open nose
oreo ond lhe lnlernol loll secllon ln whlch lhe
rockel loll plpe ls mounled. l wonled lo lry lo
lhoroughly remove ony lroce ol lhls belng o
plosllc model. Bolh lhe R4M rockel lubes ond
Vollher rockel molor plpe were lrlmmed lo
lll lnlo lhelr respecllve luseloge spoces, lhen
sproyed ln Gunze Dork lron ond lell lor 20
mlnules lo cure. Allerwords, lhey were genlly
bulled uslng o glosses clolh belore belng lllled
lnlo lhe luseloge wllh CA ond occelerolor.
lhe lnlerlor ol lhe Moller wos essenllolly
complele ol lhls polnl, so lhe execullve declslon
wos mode lo close lhlngs up. Due lo corelul
plonnlng, lhe luseloge holves lllled logelher
perleclly wllh everylhlng sondwlched lnlo ploce,
so o lew brushes looded wllh lomlyo Exlro
lhln Cemenl were run down eoch |olnl, wllh
coplllory ocllon dolng lls |ob. lhe luseloge wos
lhen loped up unlll ll drled.
LETS CLOSE THIS ONE UP
l llke lo somellmes odd more cemenl lhon ls
necessory. lhls woy, when lhe luseloge ls closed,
melled plosllc wlll squlsh oul ond lorm o weld
beod. lhls ls lhen sonded down ollerwords uslng
o lew dlllerenl grodes ol MDC sondlng sllcks, ond
broughl lo o pollshed llnlsh. Mo llller wos requlred.
Vhere some ponel llne deloll wos removed wllh
sondlng, l reploced ll wllh my scrlber, ond olso
used o LlonRoor clrculor scrlblng lemplole lo reslore
lhe luel llller porl on lhe upper luseloge splne.
Assembllng lhe conlrol surloces wos slmpllclly
llsell. l opled lo use some dlllerenl loll porls
lo resemble on Anlon producllon ossembly
mochlne, ond oll porls were supplled os holves
whlch |usl needed cemenllng logelher. Mo exlro
scrlblng wos needed on lhese os lhey were
generolly covered ln plywood veneer, wllh o pre
moulded plywood leodlng edge. Cnce ossembled,
lhey were cleoned up wllh sondlng sllcks ond
sponges. Agoln, ony losl leodlng edge deloll wos
rescrlbed. lhe resln loll supporl unll wos olso
cleoned up reody lor use.
Al lhls polnl l declded lo remove lhe plosllc
moulded plps lhol locole lhe wlngs lo lhe luseloge.
lnsleod l drllled lhls locollon oul wllh o 2mm drlll
bll, ond lnserled o loolh plck lhrough lhe luseloge
wlng rools ond lell o smoll slub exlendlng oulwords
onlo whlch lhe wlngs could now plug. lhls hos
lhe benelll ol ensurlng lhe wlngs ore olloched
horlzonlolly, ond wllh no occldenlol ongle. Al lhls
The model assembled with no problem whatsoever. I was very satisfied with the overall appearance. The finished display cradle.
Detail around
the exhaust and
rocket nozzles.
The subtle variations between the
panels and hatches are shown to
good effect in this view.
Aircraft Edition 29
point I also cleaned up the wing to fuselage joint in
order to give a perfect fit to the fuselage.
Now for the fun part! Preparing the fuselage
for the correct tints and tones took longer
than applying the decal itself. As I previously
mentioned, I now switched to Gunze/Mr Hobby
paints exclusively.
SHOW THE FLESH
First of all, the entire exterior was painted in a base
coat of Flesh. It didnt take long to get a good, solid
colour covering to this little model. The finish to this
flesh colour, and all the paints I used for this section
were either gloss or semi gloss and diluted 50:50
with Mr Levelling Thinner. The airbrush was then
loaded with Black paint and a heavy pre-shade
was applied to all panel lines and ports. This thing
looked seriously ugly at this point. A balancing
coat of heavily thinned Flesh was then applied, but
slightly more diluted than 50:50. Radome was now
sprayed in the centres of panels and then thinner
coats were used to balance the whole model once
more. The next stage is to then lighten the Radome
50:50 with white paint and again concentrate on
those panel centres before applying thinned, misted
coats over the whole model.
By now, things should look quite subtle. Despite
using a variety of wood grain decal, I opted to
airbrush a very light misting of Flesh over a few
random panels, just to break up the appearance
of the various timber decals. When the model
sub-assemblies were painted, they were then
airbrushed with Klear in order to seal them and
provide a perfect decaling surface.
When I met Alex in Munich, he supplied me
with a number of different wood decal sheets.
The ones I would be using for this would be the
Veneer types. I also supplemented this with Uschis
Knotless decal, supplied to me courtesy of the
wonderful Grant Lovett of Arrow Wolf Models.
Decaling a model entirely isnt such a time
consuming project, but it does pay to take your
time in order to get things right. To produce the
panels for this model, I used a combination of two
methods, For the larger shapes with a number of
compound curves, I traced the panel shape to a
piece of masking tape, peeled it off the model
and then stuck this to a good quality thin card. I
like to use cereal box card. This is then cut around
and the shape transferred to the decal sheet. Alex
suggests just lessening the adhesive of the tape
by repeatedly sticking to your hands a few times,
but Ive had mixed results and damaged the decal
doing this.
The easier panel areas had a slightly oversized
piece of decal applied to them, and while
relatively freshly applied, the decal was trimmed
with a sharp scalpel blade along the panel lines.
The excess was then removed. It was whilst I
was doing this process that I noticed the rich
and natural variation that occurred when one
decal piece overlapped another. I thought that
the appearance was something that shouldnt be
dismissed, and I decided to use this effect for the
control surfaces in order to offer demarcation from
the rest of the airframe. I used Mr Mark Setter
only where I was working with compound shapes.
Other than that, no setting solution was required.
The Natter had a wooden canopy hood with
glazed panels installed. This was masked and
painted at a later stage than the fuselage, and
decaled in the same manner now described.
Before any painting could be done, I took a
polishing stick to the canopies and buffed them
up. The native transparent quality of the clear
parts is better than average, but not glowing, so a
dip in Klear helped improve these a lot.
I used a combination of the veneer and
knotless decals, in both rich and pale shades
in order to break up what could have been a
rather monotone finish. Total decaling time for the
model was about one and a half days. Not too
bad when you consider that a paint scheme and
weathering dont need to be applied.
HAMMER, NAIL, SORTED!
Well, you cant have timber without nails. The
real Ba 349 had its plywood panels fixed to the
skeleton by the use of both glue and nails. As I was
a little reluctant to start sticking Dymo tape to the
surface of the Natter in order to run a rivet tool, I
opted to purchase some HGW Wood Nail decal
(free lines). Adding the various rows of decal nails
was a little laborious, but paid dividends with the
overall finish of the model, really adding that touch
that a wooden structure would have.
The HGW nails are quite clever. You cut a strip
of the nail decal from the sheet, measure and trim
to size. You then soak it as you would a normal
decal. A few seconds later, the carrier film and
nail dots are removed from the backing sheet
and transferred to the model. Once you have it in
position, a cotton bud is used to remove the excess
moisture. When the strip has been in place for 3
hours, you peel the carrier film away, just leaving
the nails in place.nothing else! A quick rub with
a cotton bud then removes the carrier film residue.
The wingtips looked difficult to wood decal
but with care and setting solution you can get
the decal to mould around the tip to the half way
point. Once neatly trimmed along that centreline,
the process is repeated from the other side. The
forward most nose ring decal was applied in
sections and carefully trimmed to size. With all
decaling done, Klear was hand brushed over the
whole model to seal the decals.
I applied as many lines as I could in one
session due to the 3 hour wait in between
applications. Once all the nails were added,
the model was given a final coat of Klear to
seal everything in. I did think about the option
of adding a coat of Tamiya Clear Yellow to the
model to make everything look a little richer, but
I dont think it would have been worth the risk in
altering the tone of the whole model at this stage,
plus the base coat and decal ensemble seemed to
Flys 1:32 scale Ba 349V is
actually a very nice kit with some
excellent surface detail.
This project made me think
differently about my approach
to modelling, and most certainly
inspired me to try something more
challenging.
The simple photo-etched canopy hinge. The control surfaces look very effective.
Note the subtle nail detail The copper windscreen frame and the photo-etched gunsight lend some variation to the timber grain finish.
Aircraft Edition 31
MODELSPEC
Fly Models 1:32 Bachem Ba 349V Natter. Kit No. 32001
Tools and Modelling Products Used:
Iwata HP-CH airbrush
GSI Creos Scriber
Dymo Tape
EZ Line
Tamiya Extra Thin Cememt
Devcon Epoxy
Zap CA and activator
Copper tape, self adhesive
HGW Wood Nail decals, free lines
Mr Mark Setter
0.2mm Plusmodel Lead Wire
Tamiya Tape
Swann Morton scalpel and blades No.11 & No.15
RB Productions Luftwaffe seatbelts, green
Lindstrom tweezers
2mm drill bit & pin vise
Tooth pick
Uschi van der Rosten Veneer, Ronny Bar and Knotless wood grain decal
Uschi van der Rosten concrete base
Eduard German tool box, 1:35
Airscale Luftwaffe instrument decals
Airscale Luftwaffe placards
Johnsons Klear
Mr Hobby Flesh, Radome, White, Black, Silver
Tamiya Flesh, White, Smoke, Deck Tan
Griffin Alkyd Raw Umber oil paint.
Model Master Radome
Vallejo Red, German Green, Black, Chocolate Brown, Leather.
References:
X-Planes of the Third Reich by David Mhyra
Bachem Ba 349 Natter by Joachim Dressel
Uschi woodgrain decal isnt
the simple option, or an
artistic cop-out at all.
get everything right first time.
The time had come to finally assemble all the
various Natter sections. Where plastic to plastic
joints were employed, I removed and decal which
was in the path of the joint, and used a very
small amount of Revell Contacta. Where the resin
tail mount was involved, I used a small amount
of Devcon Epoxy, well within the middle of the
joint. I didnt want to risk using super glue and not
aligning things properly. Removal of the part could
have torn the wood decal from the surface.
This is indeed a simple kit to assemble, and
the rocket boosters are no exception. These
were supplied as halves, glued together with
Tamiya cement, and when dry, the seams were
removed with sanding sticks and sponges. The
resin booster nozzles were then removed from
their casting block, cleaned up and fitted to the
booster bodies with CA. I decided to airbrush
the boosters in Alclad Dark Aluminium, and
add a subtle wash to the booster nozzles. The
boosters were then assembled into packs of two
using the wooden blocks that I prepared and
decaled earlier in construction. The boosters
were then fitted to the fuselage using the photo
etch straps which were included in the kit. I was
pretty sure that these straps would have been
made from a low grade metal, and probably
not very clean either. I decided to airbrush these
parts in Gunze Dark Iron, before buffing to a
suitable sheen.
The Natters forward windscreen was sheathed
on the outside with what appears to be copper.
Instead of simply spraying this in a copper-
coloured paint, I opted to use very thin self-
adhesive copper tape. The real beauty of was
that it would eventually take on a nice patina. The
thickness of the copper tape would also enhance
the appearance as the plastic part doesnt have
great frame definition. Once applied, I used a
beading tool to add rivets to the framing. I also
ensured that the copper slightly overlapped the
fuselage joint in order to give a more authentic
look The final parts, such as the small dorsal fin
and aiming sight for the rockets, were added and
touched up with a little paint.
Fly Model supplies a small photo-etched hinge
for hanging the models hood. This was bent to
shape and the hood fitted into on open position.
I had been pondering for a while on how I
might display the Natter. Should I pose it on
a plinth, suspended on a pole, and in flight?
No, perhaps not. Instead I decided to use that
construction cradle that was supplied in the kit.
This area required perhaps more clean up than
the kit itself in order to remove seams.
Painting it in the same manner as the model
itself, I added Uschis planking decal to give it
an authentic appearance, and using the same
paint preparation to achieve the underlying
coats. This had to look different to the Natters
timber, and I think these products achieved that
pretty well. Again, I used Masterclub resin rivets
to simulate the bolts/nails which would have
been used to hold the cradle again.
CONCLUSION
This project was designed to pull me from the
modelling doldrums, and it did more than that.
It actually made me think differently about my
approach to modelling, and most certainly
inspired me to try something more challenging.
Please watch this space with regard to that one!
Many thanks to Jeroen Peters, Grant Lovett,
Alex Glass, Dave Johnson and Martin Philpott for
their invaluable and much appreciated support
during the planning and building of this project. I
owe them much.
N
ow in its 18th year at the same location, the
2013 Queensland Model and Hobby Expo
was held at the Brisbane Table Tennis Centre
on the weekend of 7 and 8 September.
QMHE is a co-operative annual venture between
local Queensland model clubs, but entries are open
to members and the public alike.
This year, the tables boasted nearly 350 quality
entries, but numbers were boosted by many more
models on club display tables. In addition to the
aircraft models present, there were plenty of cars,
trucks, military vehicles, figures and even a working
small scale railroad.
The show was well attended by modellers and
members of the public, including families and
young people.
Plenty of traders were on hand, amongst them
OzMods, Modelnerds, Firestorm Models, Fold
iT Models, Creative Models Australia, Ronnels
Hobbies and many more. The canteen, serving
hoot food, was doing a roaring trade too.
If youre in Australia anywhere near sunny
Queensland in September next year, drop by its
well worthwhile!
QUEENSLAND MODEL
AND HOBBY EXPO 2013
SHOW REPORT: QUEENSLAND MODEL AND HOBBY EXPO 2013
The Editor heads to
sunny Brisbane to visit
the 2013 Queensland
Model and Hobby Expo.
The imposing Hawk / Lindberg 1/245 scale Graf Zeppelin by Wayne Huston.
Trumpeters 1:72
scale Sea Fury by
Don Moore.
Greg Anderson from OzMods with their latest releases.
p32-35 show report - qmhe 2013 031.indd 32 26/09/2013 12:21
Aircraft Edition 33
QUEENSLAND MODEL
AND HOBBY EXPO 2013
Tamiyas 1:48 scale Bristol Beaufighter Mk.VIc by David Roach. Also by David Roach was Hasegawas 1:48 scale Republic P-47D-23 Thunderbolt.
A lovely finish on this 1:72 scale Hasegawa F-111 by Mick Drover. Trumpeters 1:24 scale Spitfire Mk.Vb.
Club displays were impressive. Here is IPMS Queensland. It was also a good chance to stock up on tools.
Eric Galliers 1:32 scale sleek Aerotech Supermarine S.4 This remarkable model is Aerobases 1/1000 scale stripped-down Graf Zepplin Airship by Adam Claxton.
Visitors lining up for entry on a sunny Brisbane weekend.
SHOW REPORT: QUEENSLAND MODEL AND HOBBY EXPO 2013
Also from Danny, Airfixs 1:24 scale Focke-Wulf Fw 190 A-4.
Full engine detail is on display.
Trumpeters 1:32 scale Sukhoi Su-25 Frogfoot by Gary Lang.
Tamiyas 1:72 scale A6M2 Zero by Darryl Slight.
A good variety of subjects from Darling Downs Scale Modellers.
Maritime modellers were well represented too, including this impressive
Trumpeter 1:350 scale Richelau by David Dalton.
Italeri 1:48 scale Wessex
Helicopter by Gary Lang.
Plenty of traders were on hand to relive modellers of their money.
Left: Zoukei-Mura 1:32 scale
Kyushu J7W1 Shinden by
Wayne Huston.
Trumpeters 1:24 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-2 Steppe Relic by Danny Lapthorpe. This model has been extensively weathered and damaged.
Right: Academys
1:72 scale Umpire
P-39D Airacobra by
Darryl Slight.
Left: Pro Modellers
1:48 scale Me 410
by John Dryburgh.
P-40N in 1:48 scale. John Dryburgh entered this 1:48 scale Dragon Me 262 B
Eric Galliers 1:32 scale Kinetic BAE Hawk 127.
Danny Lapthorpe s 1:24 scale Bf 109 F-2 conversion.
Shane Weier was responsible for HobbyBoss colourful 1:72
scale F4F-3 Wildcat.
Creative Models Australia.
Hobbycrafts 1:144 scale B-36 by Phil Morlet.
Aircraft Edition 35
Brett Simpsons 1:32 scale Wingnut Wings RE.8 RAAF Amberley, home of the late great F-111, and a model club.
Airfix 1:48 scale BAE Hawk T1 by Shane Weier.
FEATURE ARTICLE: Vlngnul Vlngs 1:32 RE.8 Horry lole" Kll Mo. 32012
BEAUTY IS IN THE
EYE OF THE BEHOLDER
Dlrk Polchow bullds Vlngnul Vlngs 1:32 scole RE.8 Horry lole".
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 36 27/09/2013 14:28
Aircraft Edition 37
T
he RE.8 (Royal Aircraft Factory
Reconnaissance Experimental 8) entered
service with the RFC in late 1916 as a
replacement for the BE series of 2-seaters.
It was based on the BE.2e design, sharing its
components like wings, undercarriage and tail
plane. Nicknamed "Harry Tate" rhyming slang
after an English music hall star - the aircraft can
be seen as an antithesis to a streamlined design.
Form follows function but in this case the overall
appearance clearly shows that this plane has
nothing to do with a modern design.
Major elements of the plane such as the
exhausts, the air scoop and the dominant King
Posts seem to point in all but the intended direction.
The excessive rigging and the short number of struts
in comparison to its wingspan will have been made
pilots sceptical to its stability and performance.
Nevertheless it continued in service for the rest of
the war, employed on reconnaissance, artillery
observation and light bombing duties.
THE PTERODACTYL
When I first saw pictures of the RE.8, I was
attracted by its unconventional look. You can
feel the instability of the design and the need
for structural rigging and thats what I wanted
to express with my model. In this sense rigging
represents this fragile state of stability in which all
those different materials like wood, linen and metal
are forming a functional unit. To use a metaphor:
While modern planes are often compared with
birds and named especially by birds of prey, I had
the impression that this plane bears analogy to a
less successful early design in nature:
a prehistoric Pterodactyl.
Three modelling techniques proved
to be essential for the outcome of a
British WWI fighter and my article
will focus on three key aspects:
Applying a convincing wood grain
finish, handling complex rigging
and creating realistic monochrome
surfaces. While building Wingnut
Wings LVG C VI and their
Albatros D Va I had my first experience in
creating wood grain finishes. WNWs British WWI
planes, their Brisfit, the SE.5a and especially
their fabulous FE.2b late gave me some extensive
teaching sessions in rigging. The rigging of the
Fees tail boom with its instable design gave me
BEAUTY IS IN THE
EYE OF THE BEHOLDER
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 37 27/09/2013 14:28
lhe experlence lhol slruclurol rlgglng ls essenllol lo
lhe reol plone ond even lor o 1:32 scole repllco.
Anolher cruclol ospecl ln ochlevlng o convlnclng
resull ls lhe weolherlng ond llnlsh ol monochrome
surloces. PC10 whlch ls wldely used on ollled
plones durlng VVl ls o good exomple lor lhls:
Vhen ll ls sproyed onlo lhe model ln one or
lwo loyers wllhoul shodlng or colour modulollon
lechnlques, ll lends lo glve lhe model o loyllke,
unconvlnclng look.
l mode lhe declslon lo bulld lhe lole ln lhe
morklngs ol lhe B10 "1o"Dolmler bulll lrom
Plh Squodron. lhls olrcroll ls menlloned ond
shown ln Vlndsocks Dolo llle 13. As sold belore
my losl pro|ecl wos lhe FE2.b lole" ond my
onllclpollon wos lhol lhls nexl bulld wlll dellnllely
be more reloxlng. l expecled lo hove less work,
especlolly on lhe llme consumlng rlgglng process.
Aller bulldlng lhe cockpll secllon, l mode lhe
experlence lhol lhe cockpll ol lhe "Horry lole" wos
lor more complex lhon lhol ol lhe Fee"... Bul woll
and see!
WOODWORKING
Polnllng lhe wooden componenls lnslde lhe cockpll
lollows Vlngnuls "Hlnls ond llps".
l used lomlyo /FP Deserl Yellow os lhe bose
colour ond Fulure lor lhe cool. For lhe boslc
woodgroln, undlluled Burnl Slenno oll polnl wos
brushed. Aller o lew mlnules l used o speclol lon
shoped brush lo gel lhe slruclure ln o more delolled
woy. lhe brush wos used wllh o smoll quonllly
ol Vhlle Splrll. Vhol lollows ore smoll spols ol
mber ond block, opplled wllh o loolhplck. lhls
polnl wos lreoled ln lhe some woy by uslng lhol
speclol brush. lhe wood groln ls very convlnclng
ond con be modllled by uslng more or less
quonlllles ol Vhlle Splrll.
lhe conslrucllon ol lhe cockpll beglns wllh lhe
preporollon ol lhe englne boy ond lhe luseloge
longerons. Every porl ol lhe nocelle recelved lls
wooden ond melol cool belore ossembly. Allow
lhe oll polnled porls lo dry lor ol leosl lhree doys
ond seol lhem wllh sllk vornlsh. lhe lnslrumenl
boord hos been delolled by uslng 0.1mm copper
wlre. lhe cobllng ol lhe lnslrumenl lomps ls qulle
promlnenl ond con eoslly be seen on relerence
pholos. lhe copper wlres hove been sproyed
ln red ond blue. Aller uslng Fulure lo prolecl
lhe colour, bolh wlres were drllled logelher. lhe
lnslrumenl lomps hove been scrolch bulld by uslng
llnsolder, o delolled explonollon con be lound ln
lhe lexl besldes lhe plclures.
Cne nole on Slep 1 ln lhe lnslrucllon sheel: lhe
englne boy ond lls lrome members hove lo be
glued preclsely lo lhe lronl plole ol lhe cockpll.
Every lnoccurocy wlll hove o compund ellecl on lhe
poslllon ol lhe englne, lhe exhousls, lhelr poslllon
lo lhe wlngs ond on lhe lllllng ol lhe cowllng.
lhe nexl slep wos lo prepore lhe cell lor lhe
rlgglng. l drllled holes lnlo some ol lhe slruls ol
lhe luseloge longerons whlle some ol lhe more
lroglle slruls were lllled wllh sellmode eyelels.
lhose eyelels, mode ol 0.1mm
copper wlre hove been wldely
used lhroughoul lhe bulld. Avold
mounllng lhe rlgglng on lhe ouler
sldes ol lhe longerons, becouse ol lhe
very llghl lll ol lnlerlor lnslde lhe luseloge. Every
loyer ol locquer on lhls reglon wlll hove greol
lmpocl on lhe overoll lllllng. lhe slde ponels ol lhe
nocelle ore very lhln ond dellcole lo hondle. Pleose
loke your llme ond bewore lhose longerons lo be
overslrelched whlle llxlng lhem on lhe lloor ploles,
lhe cockpll ond lhe lnner cobln slruls. loke core
Painting the woodwork follows the "Hints and Tips" included in Wingnut Wings instructions.
I used Tamiya XF-59 desert yellow as the base colour and "Future" for the coat. For the
basic wooden finish undiluted Burnt Sienna oil paint was applied by using a sponge. After a
few minutes I used this special brush to get the structure in a more detailed way. The brush
was used with a small quantity of White Spirit.
Small spots of Umber and Black followed, applied
with a toothpick. This paint was treated in the
same way as described above.
The various elements of the cockpit receive
different mixes of Umber, Sienna and Red-Brown
oil paints to emphasise the appearance of the
multiple types of woods used inside the cockpit.
The cockpit has been detailed by using
0.15mm copper wire for the wiring of the
instrument lamps. The copper wires have
been coloured in red and blue. After using
"Future" to protect the lacquer, both wires
were drilled together. The instruments were
painted with Alclad paints.
The instrument lamps have been made scratch
by using tin-solder. The metal was bended and
sanded down on the sides to get the shape of
lamps. The decals were placed and I had some
problems in identifying the correct position of
the numerals.
In preparation for the rigging I drilled some holes
in the struts. I used the hole in the back strut
as a guide for drilling through the strut on the
instrument panel. Choose a relaxed day for this
operation!
I removed the middle part with the very delicate pattern and choose some nylon mesh from a wallet and fixed it with CA. After priming and a
base coat the seat looked very convincing to my eyes.
I tried to trim the wicker pattern on the
pilot seat. As shown on Wingnuts Hints
and Tips the plastic on the backside of
the seat can be cut away with caution.
Thats the theory. I have tried the same on
my Brisfit and failed again.
The completed cockpit
enclosed in its framing.
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 38 27/09/2013 14:29
Aircraft Edition 39
especially during the fitting of the gunners section.
WNW suggests sanding down the plastic
behind the wicker pattern on the pilots seat to
achieve a realistic look, so thats what I did and I
easily came to the point of its destruction! I had
to find an adequate substitute for this important
detail and chose some nylon mesh material.
While working on the wooden parts of the
cockpit, the struts also receive their wood grain
finish. Preparing the struts proves to be very time
consuming. Besides the wooden paintwork, every
metal bracket needs to be painted by using a
high quality 000 size brush. Structural rigging is
done by using conventional 0.12mm fishing line.
The optional Ruston decals on the struts are of
excellent quality. One very interesting detail is the
struts between the upper and lower ailerons. They
were wrapped around the brackets for enhanced
stability and I reproduced this detail by using
EZ-line fixed with superglue (CA).
The castings of the instruments were painted
with Alclad colours. Decals, all printed in excellent
quality, were placed and I had some problems in
identifying the correct position of the numerals and
markings. I failed to find the correct position under
my magnifying glasses due to the microscopic
dimensions. I used the macro function on my Nikon
Coolpix camera to check the right position and
was able to fix the decals after several attempts.
The decals were applied by using Microset and
Microsol. After drying I used crystal clear to
simulate the glass.
One thing thats quite irritating and caused some
discussion in forums is the map decal No. 77 on
part A66. Printed in colour it is hard to believe that
its close to the real maps used in 1918. A scaled
down and printed photo of one of the original
maps would be more convincing to my eyes.
STEELWORKS
Like all Wingnut kits, the cockpit of the RE.8 can
be considered a model in its own right. Another
area of interest is the engine. The RAF 4a engine
provided in the kit is high detailed and consists
of 28 parts. To reproduce the different materials
used on the engine, Alclad paints proved to have
the best results in my view. All parts have been
painted before assembly and the lacquer can be
I used different Alclad-Lacquers (Aluminum, Dark
Aluminum, Steel) to create some colour variation
due to the different metals used for the engine.
The engine block was airbrushed with
Alclad Aluminum and has been polished
afterwards by using cotton buds.
For the cylinders I used Tamiya
Black and added some Mig-
Pigments (gun metal), applied
with the finger.
The ignition wire has been made from .20mm copper
wire. In order to fit on the shape of the engine block,
the 10 strings of the wire were bent together. The
harness was coloured in a dark reddish brown and
was sealed with a coat of Future.
The weathering was done with a mixture of heavily thinned black and Umber artist-oil-colours.
I used Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan
lightened with XF-2 Flat White
as an overall base colour. The
wing rips and parts of the
nacelle have been masked
with Tamiya tape before some
preshading with Tamiya X-19
Smoke. The wings and the
fuselage get their coat of PC
10. The first step was the
overall base coat of Tamiya
XF-55 Deck Tanfollowed by
some shading.
The next step highlights the dark and bright
parts of the wings and the fuselage, similar to
a mottled Luftwaffe scheme. I mixed a lighter
and a darker shade of PC 10 by using Tamiya
XF-62 Dark Green and XF-10 Flat Brown.
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 39 27/09/2013 14:29
odded wllhoul ony prlmer. For shlny colours llke
pollshed olumlnum o block bose cool con lncreose
lhe brlghlness ond helps lo gel some vorlollon. lhe
lgnlllon cobles ore molded ln o one plece porl lhol
sullers o llllle bll lrom deloll ond seemed o bll loo
homogeneous lo me. l reploced ll wllh o scrolch
bulld coble loom mode wllh len lenglhs ol 0.1mm
copper wlre. lhe cobles were benl logelher,
prelormed, polnled ln o reddlsh brown ond
glued lo lhe spork plugs. lhose cobles ore eosy
lo reproduce ond glve lhe englne o much more
convlnclng oppeoronce. Flnolly o wosh wllh o mlx
ol hlgh dlluled block ond brown oll polnls resulls ln
o heovlly used look ol lhe englne. Vhlle Splrll wos
used lo slmulole lhe llow ol leoked oul oll down lo
lhe englne block. loke core ln glulng lhe cyllnder
heods ln slrolghl llne. ll ls hlghly recommended lo
use lhe exhousls os o gulde olherwlse lhe exhousls
wonl lll preclsely ln o sloge ol lhe bulld where ll ls
olmosl lmposslble lo moke correcllons.
lhe exhousls were polnled wllh Alclod sleel
ond sllghl rusl wos odded by uslng red ond brown
powdered poslels, dlluled ond llxed wllh cleonlng
solvenl. Lole on slep 1P ond 20 ln lhe lnslrucllons
lhe ossembly ol lhe englne ls llnlshed by oddlng
lhe corburelors ond on orrongemenl ol rods lhols
presumobly porl ol lhe synchronlzlng syslem [Slep
1|. lhose lhree componenls musl be dry lllled
ond lrlmmed wllh core lo ensure o close lll ol lhe
common cowl loler on.
INSIDE THE SPRAY SHOP
Prolecllve Coverlng Mo. 10 [PC10| hos been
descrlbed os o mlxlure ol yellow ochre, lron
oxlde ond lomp block plgmenls. ll vorles belween
chocolole brown ond ollve drob due lo lhe mlx ond
lhe exposure llme.
Vhlle lols ol polnl componles sell lhelr own
lnlerprelollon ol PC10, lhls monochrome colour
lends lo look unconvlnclng when ll ls opplled ln o
slngle homogeneous loyer. Glven lhol my "lole"
hod o more vlvld ond lyplcolly worn ellecl mokes ll
necessory lo conlrol lhe polnl process by sproylng
sllghl cools ol dlllerenl shodes ln mony sleps. lhe
overoll ldeo ls lo glve lhe luseloge o bose cool,
comporoble lo lhe orlglnol llnen molerlol ond
work wllh lhe coverlng PC10 colour ln o woy lhol
dlllerenl weolherlng ellecls llke loded colours,
obroslon, dlrl ond oll slolns con be slmuloled. So
lhe llnen colour wos covered wllh mulllple cools ol
dorker ond llghler mlxes ol PC10, creollng llghler
sun loded oreos especlolly on lhe luseloge ond lhe
upper wlng. Dorker oreos neor lhe cockpll wlng gel
some shodlng by uslng o more brownlsh colour.
A llnol cool ol llghl PC10 wos mlsled over lhe
wlngs ond lhe luseloge lo homogenlze lhe ellecls.
By uslng Mlcromesh clolhes up lo 12000 groln, lhe
vornlsh gol lls worn look. Cn rolsed oreos ol lhe
luseloge, lhe underlylng llnen cool come lhrough
ond popped up oll lhe delolls. lhe oreo where
lhe llnen ls llxed wllh o cord lo lhe nocelle wos
mosked ond sproyed wllh Volle|os Moll Vornlsh.
lhls creoles o vlslble bul sllll dlscreel conlrosl lo
lhe luseloge. Allenllon wos olso glven lo lhe oreos
oround lhe wlng rlps. By lollowlng lhe melhods
descrlbed obove, lhe wlngs gol o very convlnclng
worn llnlsh.
CLIMBING THE RIGGING
Due lo lhe wlngspon, lhe lenglh ol lhe cobles ond
lhe complexlly ol lhe rlgglng on Brlllsh olrcroll,
ll ls very dllllcull lo guoronlee overoll lenslon by
uslng pholoelched wlre or monolllomenl. So l
declded lo use elosllc lhreol lor mosl ol lhe rlgglng.
However, lo enhonce lhe sloblllly ol lhe upper
wlng, sloble rlgglng wllh 0.12mm monolllomenl
More coats of light and later dark
shaded PC10 mix followed. After the
final and very brownish coat of PC 10,
the varnish has been sanded down with
8.000 to 12.000 size micromesh cloths.
This step ensures the worn look,
pops up the details and let the
linen shine through on heavily
exposed areas.
During painting, the cockpit was
masked off with a piece of sponge
Markings have been applied to the
fuselage before further assembly.
The lower wings were added next.
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 40 27/09/2013 14:29
Aircraft Edition 41
The struts are a tiny works of art. Due to their thinness and the fact
that only eight struts are used it is quite hard to imagine that the
upper wing can be fixed in a stable way.
First the struts were primed with Tamiyas desert yellow and sealed
with Future. For the wood grain oil paint were used as described
above. While the mounting points from the exhausts to the upper
wings will do their job in adding some stiffness I decided to use
nylon monofilament for the rigging between the pairs of struts to
enhance stability.
Fixing the eight struts on the lower wing was much easier than on my FE.2b. For correct alignment I have modified a template of the upper wing that
I have used before on my Fee. To keep the correct distance between the left and right centre struts, I have used some small cardboard sheets in
the proper length.
The most difficult procedure was the fixing of the struts on the upper
wing. Like Wingnuts "Hints and Tips" suggest, I first glued the centre
struts and then the external struts. I had lots of problems with fixing
the left centre strut No. 33. While every other strut sits properly, this
one seems to be too short. I am sure that this was because of my own
mistake. I fixed the strut as best as I can, keeping in mind that the
parallel alignment of the wings has priority.
While the CA cures, the upper and lower wings were kept aligned by
using the box as shown here.
Finally, the excess rigging was cut off.
The bird carries a 112lb Early Type Hale Bomb. I used the HGW detail set for the bomb and its carrier. I cut
away the fin and sanded down the body of the bomb by
using my Dremel.
After a base coat of Tamiyas Fine Primer, I used a mix
of Tamiya XF60-desert yellow and XF3-flat yellow and
lightened the mix with a drop of XF2-white.
The completed bomb on its rack.
The HGW detail set for the
Lewis Gun was also used. The bungee cord on the mount of the Lewis gun has been drilled by using three
0.05mm copper wires, painted in Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan and one 0.15 copper wire,
painted with a mix of XF-10 Flat Brown and XF-7 Flat Red. The wires received a
coat of Future and were drilled together by using a hand brace. Afterwards the
wires were sealed with another layer of Future bonding them together perfectly.
The Lewis gun
and its mount.
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 41 27/09/2013 14:29
wos used belween lhe slruls. Aboul P0 lurnbuckles
were mode by uslng 0.1mm copper wlre. lhe
buckles were llxed ln predrllled holes belore wlng
ossembly.
Al lhls sloge ll ls recommended lo conlrlve lhe
elosllc lhreod lhrough lhe buckles ol lhe upper
wlng. Monolllomenl wos olso llddled ond llxed
wllh Alblon Alloy lube on lhe slruls.
HARRY GETS A GUN
My Dolmler bulll B10 corrles o 112lb Eorly lype
Hole Bomb on lhe cenlre bomb corrler. Pholos ol
lhls speclllc olrcroll con be seen ln Vlndsock Dolo
llle 13.
l used lhe HGV deloll sel #132020 lor lhe
bomb loll ond rock, ond sel# 132201P lor lhe
Lewls. lhe pholo elched bomb corrler ond lhe Hole
llns ore o huge lmprovemenl ln comporlson lo lhe
ln|ecllon molded porls ol lhe kll. lhe bungee cord
on lhe mounl ol lhe Lewls gun hos been drllled
wllh o pln vlce by uslng lhree pre polnled 0.0mm
copper wlres. lhe delolllng work on lhe bomb,
lhe rock, lhe Lewls ond lls scorl rlng wos very llme
consumlng ond some work l.e. on lhe Lewls slghl
could only be done by uslng mognllylng lenses.
ln my oplnlon especlolly lhls exlro work drows
lhe ollenllon ol lhe observer lo llny hlgh delolled
porls ond glves lhe model on overoll convlnclng
oppeoronce.

PTERODACTYL SHAKEDOWN FLIGHT
So oller complellng lhe rlgglng, conlrol wlres ond
ormomenl lhe bulld wos done oller o lour monlh
conslrucllon perlod.
lhls wos my slxlh Vlngnul bulld ond ln
comporlson lo my losl bulld, lhe FE.2.b lhe overoll
conslrucllon wos eosler. Monelheless ond especlolly
becouse ol lls lolrly unusuol ond orcholc deslgn lhe
RE.8 ls on exlremely ollrocllve plone ln my eyes. ll
leods lhe observers eye on so mony unusuol ond
lnleresllng componenls ol lhe olrcroll.
l hope lhol lhe orllcles reducllon lo o lew bul
essenllol ospecls ond lechnlques sllll glves o good
overvlew ol lhe mosl chollenglng ond sollslylng
ospecls ol VVl olrcroll modelllng.
All that extra time put into the complex rigging is well worthwhile.
This build was completed
over a four month period.
Like all Wingnut kits, the cockpit
of the RE.8 can be considered as
a model in its own right...
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 42 27/09/2013 14:29
Aircraft Edition 43
MODELSPEC
Wingnut Wings 1:32 RE.8 Harry Tate. Kit No. 32012
Accessories:
EZ Rigging Line (Gold-Zack/Prym Knitting in elastic 977770)
Tectan Fluorcarbon Fishing Line, 012mm/0,004in
HGW 132020 RFC Bomb Tail-Rack
HGW 132019 RFC Lewis / Vickers Guns
Tools and Materials Used:
Tamiya Extra Fine Cement
Revell Contacta Professional Cement
UHU Cyanacrylat Super Glue
Harder and Steinbeck Evolution Airbrush
Dremel Multi-Tool
Brass rod and drills from 0,3mm to 1,2mm
Tamiya 10mm Masking Tape
Isopropyl Alcohol
Future Floor Finish
Copper wire, 0,20mm, 0,15mm, 0,05mm; tin-lead solder 0,5mm
Tamiya Acrylics as listed in Instructions paint callouts
Tamiya X-20 Thinner
Alclad II Lacquers: Alc-104 Pale Burnt Metal, ALC-105 Polished
Aluminium, ALC-111 Magnesium, ALC-112 Steel, ALC-108 Pale
Gold, ALC-110 Copper, ALC-103 Dark Aluminium
Norma Professional Oil paints: 680 translucent redbrown, 624 burnt
umber, 792 ivory/black, 610 burnt Sienna, 681 English red light,
114 titanium white
Schminke 50038 Medium 1 turpentine
Valleyo Model Air acrylics: 71058 Gloss Varnish, 085 Italian Red,
71057 Black
Valleyo 100% Acrylic Resin: 70522 Satin Varnish, 70520 Matt Varnish
MIG-Pigments: P034 Russian Earth, P23 Gun Metal, P033 Dark Mud
Microscale Products: Micro Sol, Micro Set, Micro Kristal Klear
References:
Windsock Datafile 153 RAF RE8 at War by Paul R Hare
The Vintage Aviator website
Jamo Faheys Photo Bucket account, especially library TVAL RE8
(http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/Jamo_kiwi/library/
TVAL%20RE8?sort=6&page=1)
Acknowledgements:
Thanks to Brett Green for his support and to the members of
HyperScales Forums
Many thanks to Des Dalore and the forum members on
WWIaircraftmodels.com
Beautiful detail and moulding; excellent fit.
Tricky struts and rigging.
Rating: 9 out of 10
Availability:
Wingnut Wings kits are available online from their website
www.wingnutwings.com and from Hannants www.hannants.com
The Lewis gun and its mount have been fitted to the rear cockpit.
I made the decision to build the Tate in the markings of the
B5106 "1a", a Daimler built machine from 59th Squadron.
p 36-43 RE8 031B.indd 43 27/09/2013 14:29
T
amiya released their game-changing 1:32
scale A6M5 Zero more than a decade ago,
followed by their stunning 1:48 scale Zero
in 2008.
It was therefore pleasing but no surprise
when Tamiya released a brand new 1:72 scale
Mitsubishi A6M5 Zero in the first quarter of 2012
with a Pearl Harbour A6M2 following before the
end of that year.
Tamiya has now further expanded the family
with a new 1:72 scale A6M3 Type 32. This
variant featured clipped wing tips and a new
engine, but it suffered from lower range due to
its smaller fuel capacity.
Tamiyas new A6M3 Type 32 comprises 72
parts in grey plastic; five parts in clear; two
polythene caps and decals for three marking
options, two in overall IJN Grey-Green based
in New Guinea, and one with Green upper
surfaces as part of the Oita Naval Air Group.
In common with its earlier siblings, moulding
quality is perfect. Surface detail is remarkable
for this small scale, mainly by way of very finely
recessed panel lines, with some subtly raised
fabric strips on control surfaces. Selected rows
of subtle rivets are present along some of the
lower wing panel lines too.
Detail is excellent throughout, but the cockpit
in particular is every bit as good as the earlier
Zero front offices. The seat is realistically
thin. Lightening holes are represented by
indentations, but a few minutes with a pin vise
will hollow them out. Sidewall detail is deep
and accurate, with the various quadrants and
boxes added from separate parts. The floor
features an open space for the clear viewing
window. The instrument panel is mounted on
the back of the ammunition bins and with the
gun breeches included. The panel features
decal instruments, which should look fantastic if
carefully aligned.
The wheel wells are authentically deep and busy.
The engine is equally good. It is made up of
only four parts, but it looks great. Cooling fin
detail is crisp, while pushrods are moulded to
the front cylinder face.
The one-piece engine cowling is seamless.
Cowl flaps are moulded shut, and all control
surfaces are in neutral positions, including the
closed landing flaps.
Poly caps are used to fit the propeller
assembly and the drop tank.
The clear parts are thin and completely free
of distortion. Alternative canopy parts are
included for closed or open configurations a
nice touch. A well detailed reflector gunsight is
also provided in clear.
The decal sheet includes printed harness
straps for the pilots seat.
Tamiyas 1:48 scale Zeros include canopy masks
but unfortunately still none for its smaller cousins.
Tamiyas 1:72 A6M3 Type 32 Zero is
beautifully detailed, with one of the best small
scale cockpits straight from the box available
today. The model should be a pleasure to build
thanks to the thoughtful planning of Tamiyas
designers too.
Even if you are not a big fan of Japanese
aircraft, you would be doing yourself a favour
by sampling the sheer excellence and of
Tamiyas new 1:72 scale Mitsubishi Zeros.
Thanks to Tamiya Japan for the sample www.
tamiya.com
Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The
Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.net
ISLAND
HOPPER
KIT PREVIEW: lomlyo 1:Z2 scole Mllsublshl AM3 Zero Flghler Model 32 [Homp|. Kll Mo. 0Z84
Tamiya expands its 1:72 scale Zero
family with the clipped wing A6M3
Type 32. The Editor takes a look.
The new clipped wings.
The engine is simply broken down but also nicely detailed.
The clear parts include the option for an open canopy.
Surface detail is simply exquisite.
p44 preview - tamiya a6m3 type 32 031.indd 44 26/09/2013 12:25
T
he first Gulf War in 1991 was the last major
pre-Internet war, and yet at the same it was
also the first war in which all sorts of new
military technology was used in anger for the
first time. However, it now seems like a long time
ago and more recent events, including 9/11 and
the second Gulf War, have overshadowed it. For
me, this model was an opportunity to reflect on
those times.
LIVING THROUGH WAR
I have a friend and former work colleague at the
British Museum, Kirsty, who has particularly vivid
memories of this war because she was working in
Kuwait at the time of Saddam Husseins invasion.
She remembers many frightening and surreal things
happening as events quickly unfolded, and it is
through her recalled experiences that I now think
of this war as much as through what I remember
seeing in the media at the time.
All wars have striking images that leave their
marks on us. Ever since the 1960s the most
memorable images and personalities of war first
come to us first through television. In the case of the
first Gulf War, who can forget Storming Norman
Schwarzkopf, the grainy video footage of guided
missile strikes or those burning oil wells? Other
images linger too.
With my interest in aircraft, I particularly
remember the sight of the Royal Air Forces Panavia
GR.1 Tornados painted in desert pink and the
TV reports of their actions, especially during the
opening few days of the war. As part of Operation
Desert Storm their daring missions were designed
to rapidly disable Saddam Husseins air force;
heroic actions that contributed to make the British
press jangle with jingoistic sentiments. It was seen
as (another) just war in a just cause.
The RAF entered into this spirit by letting their
air crews decorate their aircraft in various ways
to personalise them - something that theyve never
done in such a flamboyant way before or since.
Many RAF Jaguars and Tornados in the Gulf
sported a wide variety of typical warplane artwork,
inevitably running from scantily dressed women
to figures from cartoons and of course the weirdly
common sharks mouth motif, a motif that has
been painted on aircraft of almost every conflict
and nationality since the middle of the First World
War. It makes me think that this would make a
great subject for a book and/or a special series of
decals, but I digress.
TARGETS OF OPPORTUNITY
As a modeller my main interest is in World War
One, but not exclusively, so when I saw this 1/32
Tornado GR.1 kit on EBay about five years ago I
just couldnt resist it, not least because Revell dont
make this kit anymore. As soon as I bought it I
also managed to buy two 1/32 JP233 runway
denial weapons made by Paragon designs, and
as these are also no longer made I was very lucky
with both items.
It is only in the last few months that I finally
managed to build this model, and so I present
it here for your delectation. This is a big model
55cm long and with a wingspan of 43cm
(wings folded out); was it worth taking up so
much shelf space? Yes. Its a brutal but sleek
looking aircraft and this fact, along with the
slightly odd camouflage and unusually flamboyant
markings are what made me want to build it. I
was also attracted by the heavy weathering that
these Tornados endured, something caused by a
combination of hasty and bad re-painting from
the grey/green schemes they had in Europe and
also the harsh unforgiving conditions of the desert,
as well as constant combat use. The distinctive
soot staining on Tornado fins caused by its unique
DESERT STORMER
GALLERY: Skunkmodels RevellMonogrom 1,32 lornodo GR.1. Kll Mo. 4Z0
Leo Stevenson builds and details Revells
big 1:32 scale Tornado GR.1, finished
in markings from the first Gulf War.
p46-47 gallery - tornado gr 1 031.indd 46 26/09/2013 12:29
Aircraft Edition 47
DESERT STORMER
The characteristic Desert Pink paint is
sourced from Xtracrylix, available from
Hannants.
MODELSPEC
Revell-Monogram 1/32 Tornado GR.1. Kit No. 4705
After-market items and accessories used:
Master pitot tube and angle-of-attack probes,
Aires Panavia Tornado IDS Cockpit set,
Aires Panavia Tornado exhaust nozzles,
Paragon Designs JP233 runway denial weapons
Tools and modelling products used:
Revell Contacta professional polystyrene glue,
Zap Slo-zap cyanoacrylate glue,
Gators Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue,
Microscale Industries Micro Krystal Klear,
Humbrol Maskol masking fluid,
Tamiya 6, 10 & 18mm masking tapes,
Alclad II Micromesh Polishing Cloth set #301,
+ a variety of abrasive sticks and papers.
Paints and finishing products used:
Eduard paint masks for Revell Tornado(s) (EDJX013),
Xtracrylix - Gulf War Desert Pink FS10279,
Tamiya - a variety of their acrylic paints,
Alclad II - grey micro primer,
Alclad II metalizing paints including steel, stainless steel, jet
exhaust, and various heat stains colours.
Scale-reference items:
Saddam Hussein period Iraqi dinar notes,
Ancient Assyrian limestone plaque.
All wars have
striking images that
leave their marks
on us...
reverse thrusters was also fun to simulate. I enjoy
weathering models, it makes them look used and
lived in, adding realism and veracity. Factory-fresh
equals drearily-dull in my view.
I bought various additional after-market items
for this kit in addition to the JP233s, including the
wonderful Aires cockpit set which is meant for the
IDS Tornado but seemed to be similar enough to
GR.1 interiors to use without too much guilt (!),
although Ive just learned that Avionix now make
a GR.1 cockpit set. This Aires cockpit is certainly
a huge improvement on the rather basic cockpit
as supplied with the kit. More than that, this Aires
set is an absolute masterpiece of exquisite casting
technology, with very beautifully made detail and a
very sensible use of the respective qualities of resin,
photo-etched parts and vinyl (for the oxygen hoses),
and so buying this was very much worth the extra
expense, even more so if you buy it in order to
display your model with the canopy raised.
I also bought the Aires Tornado exhaust set, and
this is also a huge improvement on the clumsily
simplified parts that come with the kit. This area
of the model is worth the added expense because
the large sprockets and cogs of the exhaust
mechanisms (both for the iris diaphragms and the
reverse thrusters) are very visible on Tornados.
More improvements were made by buying the
pitot tube and angle-of-attack probes made by
Master for the Revell Tornado(s), which are well
made and I recommend them. What I would not
recommend is the use of the white metal landing
gear made by Scale Aircraft Conversions; the
detail quality of these parts are actually worse
than the kits own parts, and the
flimsy metal alloy is about
the same strength as the
plastic parts making
them superfluous or even
useless. I also bought the
Eduard masks made for this
kit, which worked well. The
paint I used was the excellent
Gulf War Desert Pink FS10279 by
Xtracrylix, available from Hannants.
My original intention was to make one
of the aircraft represented by the options in
the excellent set of decals made by Flightpath
for this kit, but for some reason, having bought
them, I didnt use them in the end and I used
the ones supplied with the kit. Im not sure why
I made this last-minute fickle decision, theres
nothing wrong with Flightpaths decals; model
making is all about the luxury of having choices
I suppose.
Finally, as I am sure many of you will
appreciate, when trying to make a model as
well as you can there is always a balance to
be struck between your time and money spent
on research and the natural limits there are to
both your resources and your patience. The
bottom line is that sometimes even a whole stack
of books and Mr Google just dont provide the
answers youre seeking, so you end up making
educated guesses. In this case, I just couldnt find
out if, after the hasty re-painting of the Tornados
just before the war started, they had all the
stencilling of labels and walkways etc re-applied
to appear as they were when in their normal
grey/green camouflage scheme. Some sources
said they did, some said they didnt. In the
absence of definitive information, I opted to add
these. If I am wrong, may the great God of rivets
strike me with a thunderbolt. Anyway, right or
wrong, making this model was enjoyable.
CODA
Now those of you who are expert enough to
know about the history of this aircraft and how it
was used will be aware that there is a mistake,
an anomaly, in the way I have presented it here.
The JP233 weapons were only used in the first
few days of the first Gulf War and so by the time
this particular aircraft had accumulated so much
weathering and all its kill markings these weapons
were no longer carried. Well done to those of
you who spotted that. As the authentic alternative
was to show them being carried on an aircraft in
much better or even pristine condition I preferred
this inauthentic combination, imagining that this
represents this aircraft in a museum environment
where such things happen. Okay okay, I can also
hear you experts also tell me that this particular
aircraft was later converted to a GR.4 and it is still
flying with the RAF today. Just give me a break; its
only a model!
The Aires replacement exhaust set is a marked improvement over the
simple kit parts.
The pitot tube and angle-of-attack probes are from Master.
The Aires cockpit was designed for
the IDS Tornado, but it was close
enough to use here!
p46-47 gallery - tornado gr 1 031.indd 47 26/09/2013 12:29
A
DH Publishing presents the complete guide
to building Tamiyas brand new 1:32 F4U-1
Birdcage Corsair, written by Marcus Nicholls
of Tamiya Model Magazine and Military
Illustrated Modeller AFV Edition fame.
The combat career of the F4U Corsair stretched
longer than almost any other WWII fighter aircraft.
The first of more than 12,000 Corsairs were
produced in 1940, and the last of these bent wing
birds were still doing battle above Central America
nearly thirty years later.
The Vought Aircraft company had a strong
association with the US Navy during the inter
war decades, but their focus in the 1930s was
observation aircraft, trainers and seaplanes.
Vought submitted two designs in response to a
US Navy specification issued in February 1938.
With the second of these carrier-based fighter
proposals, Vought adopted the simple strategy of
building the smallest possible airframe around the
most powerful available engine.
At the same time, Pratt & Whitney was
developing the supercharged R-2800 radial engine.
Radial engines had recently lost favour to the sleeker
inline configuration, but the US Navy preferred the
ruggedness and simplicity of the radial arrangement.
Vought therefore designed their new V-166B around
the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 powerplant.
The brute force of the R-2800 engine had to be
absorbed by a correspondingly large propeller.
With a diameter of 13 4, the Hamilton Standard
three-bladed propeller assembly was the largest
fitted to a fighter aircraft to that date.
This imposing propeller needed very high
ground clearance. Voughts solution was to install
an inverted gull wing. The main undercarriage was
fitted to the lowest point of the wing, improving
ground clearance for the propeller while still
permitting robust landing gear essential for carrier
landings. This design also lowered the profile of the
Corsair with the wings folded, and strengthened the
join with the fuselage via its sturdy central spar.
The result was the sole prototype XF4U-1, which
first flew on 29 May, 1940. The ruggedness of
Voughts design was proven at the end of that
maiden flight when the aircraft flipped after a
forced landing. Although the prototype was badly
damaged, it was repaired and flew again within
How to Build Tamiyas
1:32 F4U-1 Corsair
PREVIEW: How to Build Tamiyas 1:32 F4U-1 Corsair
ADH Publishings next title covers the all-new 1:32 scale
F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair in detail. We have some photos
of the projects and information on the contents.
Brett Green has converted
Tamiyas Corsair into a
late version Fleet Air Arm
Corsair Mk.I.
by Marcus Nicholls
Spencers engine. This build was straight from the box
with the exception of decals.
p48-49 preview gallery - corsair book 031.indd 48 26/09/2013 12:31
Aircraft Edition 49
months. Indeed, before the end of 1940
the XF4U-1 became the first US fighter
aircraft to exceed 400 mph in level flight.
Further development was required to
iron out a number of undesirable flying
and landing characteristics. In December
1942 the Corsair commenced carrier trials.
Ongoing problems with poor pilot visibility
on final approach and premature port
wing stall disqualified the Corsair from US
carrier operations at this time.
However, the first land based Corsair
Marines squadron entered front line service in
February 1943. The famous Jolly Rogers, VF-17,
became the first US Navy Corsair unit to see action
shortly after. The Corsair immediately demonstrated
its superiority over Japanese fighters with an
impressive kill ratio. The performance of the F4U
also proved to be at least on equal footing with its
US Army Air Force fighter counterparts, the P-47
and the P-51.
The Corsair was also adopted by the British Fleet
Air Arm. Unlike the US Navy, Britain operated their
Corsairs on carriers from their first sorties in March
1944. With their strikes against the Tirpitz, the
Fleet Air Arm was the only Corsair operator to face
German forces.
US Navy Corsairs were eventually cleared for
carrier use in April 1944, in time to deal with the
Kamikaze threat later that year.
In addition to full build Chapters on two US
Marines Corsairs by Marcus and another by
Spencer Pollard, Brett Green has converted the kit
to a Fleet Air Arm Corsair Mk.I
This model has been modified to represent a
closed-in turtledeck and clipped wing tips - both a
bit unusual for US-based Corsair Mk.Is.
The book will also feature reference on the full-
size aircraft.
More information will be available closer to
release.
The book may be pre-ordered now from ADH
Books www.adhbooks.com
Spencers markings are for VMF-223 operating from
Vella Lavella December of 1943.
The harness straps are
from Fine Molds.
Marcus Nicholls
exquisitely chipped and
weathered cockpit.
Marcus build also
features cockpit
placard decals from
Barracuda Studios.
Eduard fabric harness
straps have been
used Bretts build.
Barracuda Studios
engine upgrade set was
also fitted to Bretts
model. This includes a
replacement ignition
harness and new
magnetos.
Spencer Pollards Tamiya 1:32
scale F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair in
Marines markings.
p48-49 preview gallery - corsair book 031.indd 49 26/09/2013 12:32
T
he R-11 is the primary mobile refuelling
vehicle for The United States Air Force. It
replaced the R-9 Refueller .
There are currently three models of the R-11.
The first generation was delivered in 1989 to the
Air Force by the Oshkosh Truck Corporation and is
commonly referred to as the Oshkosh R-11. The Air
Force purchased 1,250 Oshkosh R-11s between
1987 and 1991.
Deliveries of the 2nd generation R-11 began in
1994. The contract for the 2nd generation model
was awarded to the Kovatch Corporation, and the
pumping and dispensing systems are mounted on a
Volvo chassis. These models are commonly referred
to as the Volvo R-11.
Deliveries of the 3rd generation R-11 began
in 2004. The contract for this model was also
awarded to the Kovatch Corporation, and the
pumping and dispensing systems are mounted on
an International chassis.
The fuel tanks hold a maximum capacity of
6,000 US gallons (23,000 L) and are able to
deliver fuel at a rate of 600 US gallons (2,300 L)
per minute.
This third generation model is commonly referred
to as the International R-11 and this is what this
Skunk Models kit represents.
IN THE BOX
Kinetics new 1/48 scale R-11 kit comprises
approximately 159 parts in green and clear plastic
and provides a detailed cab, chassis and a detailed
fuel tank with access ladder and grated walkway.
The kit provides one option, which is the access
door to fuel pump control panel that can be opened
or closed
The wheels are supplied as all-plastic parts - no
vinyl tyres here.
Clear parts include windscreen, separate
quarter windows and side windows, and various
light lenses.
The instruction sheet is well laid out with large
easy to read instructions, though references will be
need for detailed painting as there is no reference
for the cab interior. Three different US Air Force
paint scheme/markings are provided, one in desert
sand and two in gloss green.
The decal sheet offers markings for two gloss
dark green vehicles and one desert sand example.
INSPIRATION
When I was offered this kit, I was just going to do
the review, then stick it in the ever-growing pile of
Ill build it one day kits.
JET FUELLER
BUILD PREVIEW: Skunkmodels Vorkshop 1:48 R11 S,MAlC Fuel lruck. Kll Mo. SV2001
Jason Woollett builds a brand new 1:48
scale kit from Skunkmodels Workshop that
will be an interesting crossover subject for
both aircraft and military modellers.
Kinetics attractive box art.
p50-52 build review - kinetic nato fuel truck 031.indd 50 26/09/2013 12:33
Aircraft Edition 51
Kinetics attractive box art.
The one-piece cab. Tyres are provided in solid plastic hooray!
The chassis with the cab
interior parts and pump unit
attached.
Fit is good, even with the main
components dry-fitted here.
The big tank. This needed repairs
when the centreline join split after
initial assembly.
Plenty of glue and filler
was applied to the tank to
ensure it stayed together
this time!
Clear parts for the windows and lights. This is a substantially sized kit, even in 1/48 scale.
The suspension is
quite well detailed,
but note the bald
tyres!
The cab may be assembled
separately and attached to the
chassis later in the build.
There are quite a few decals to put on,
so careful attention to the instructions
was needed to ensure correct placement.
BUILD PREVIEW: Skunkmodels Vorkshop 1:48 R11 S,MAlC Fuel lruck. Kll Mo. SV2001
The R-11 is the primary mobile
refuelling vehicle for The United
States Air Force.
lm nol reolly on olrcroll modeller, or o bullder ol
ony reloled models ln lhol oreo, bul upon dolng o
bll ol reseorch ond seelng numerous plclures onllne l
declded lo bulld ll slrolghl owoy.
lhe lnslrucllons ore well lold oul ond conslrucllon
wenl olong wllh no reol lssues. l would suggesl
llme ond core ls loken wllh lhe chossls rolls lo
moke sure lhey ore porollel ond sllllng even.
You moy olso wlsh lo relnlorce lhe |oln olong
lhe blg luel lonk os whllsl l wos sondlng lhe seom,
lhe plosllc splll open due lo lhe plosllc llexlng. l
repolred lhls by opplylng super glue olong lhe
seom ond resondlng lhe oreo. lhe chossls wos
bulll up complele wllh wheels ond suspenslon ond
lhe lower holl ol lhe cob wos olloched os well.
lhere were only lwo dlsoppolnllng ospecls ol
lhls kll. Cne wos lhe lyres, whlch hove no lreod
delolls excepl lor lhe sldewolls. ll you vlew lhe lyres
lrom lhe lronl or bock, lhen you wlll see lhe smoolh
surloce ol lhe lyre.
lhe second concerned lhe only reol opllon wllh
lhls kll, whlch ls lo hove lhe luel pump conlrol
ponel opened or closed. l hod plonned lo hove
lhls on dlsploy, bul when looklng ol lhe ovolloble
relerence plclures, lhere ore qulle lorge gouges
ond numerous decols ond slenclls locoled ln lhol
oreo. Sodly none ol lhese were lncluded ln lhe
decol sheel, so l chose lo leove ll closed.
PAINTING
lhere were lwo llnlshlng cholces ollered, o
glossy green ond o deserl lon colour. l chose
lhe deserl lon colour ond used lomlyo lS3 Dork
Yellow. lhls wos sproyed dlreclly lrom lhe con
ond lhe whole model wos glven lhree cools.
lhe cob wos polnled ln o cuslom mlx ol grey
lo molch onllne plclures ol lhe lnlerlor, whlch
oppeors lo remoln lhe some os clvlllon lrucks ol
lhe some moke.
lhe lyres were polnled wllh lomlyo MAlC
Block, whlch glves lhe lyres o reollsllc colour.
lhe wlndows were glued ln ploce, ond lhe
lop holl ol lhe cob ond lhe lonker were olloch lo
lhe chossls. lhere ore qulle o lew decols lo pul
on, so corelul ollenllon lo lhe lnslrucllons wos
needed lo ensure correcl plocemenl.
Relerence plclures show lhese lrucks lo be
remorkobly cleon ond lldy so l declded lo do
lhe some wllh lhe model ond keep ll lolrly
cleon. A llghl dusllng ol lrue Eorlh plgmenls
wos brushed olong lhe lop ol lhe lonker
superslruclure ond lrue Eorlh Greose ond Sool
Vosh wos rondomly ploce oround lhe lop
holches lo repllcole splll luel.
As o llnol louch, o very llghl dry brushlng ol
Alumlnlum wos done olong lhe lop ol lhe lonker
lor generol weor ond leor.
CONCLUSION
lhls wos o qulck ond eosy bulld ond ollhough nol
somelhlng lhol l would normolly do, l lhoroughly
en|oyed ll. Klnellcs 1:48 scole R11 Fuel lruck wlll
be o greol oddlllon lo your olrcroll dloromo or os
o slondolone model.
Kinetics 1:48 scale R11 Fuel Truck
was a quick and easy build.
Reference pictures show these trucks to
be remarkably neat and tidy so I decided
to do the same with the model and keep
it fairly clean.
The decal sheet includes plenty
of stencil markings.
The tyres were painted with Tamiya NATO Black.
MODELSPEC
Skunkmodels Workshop 1:48 R-11 US/NATO Fuel Truck.
Kit No. SW-62001
Tamiya Acrylics: various
Tamiya Spray Can: TS-3 Desert Yellow
True Earth pigments
True Earth Grease and Soot Wash
Interesting crossover subject for aircraft and military
modellers; quick and easy build; good size for 1:48 scale;
high quality moulding.
Poor tyre tread detail; details lacking inside fuel pump panel.
Skunkmodel Workshop kits and accessories are available online from
www.luckymodel.com
Aircraft Edition 53
T
he Dassault/Dornier Alpha Jet is a light
attack jet and advanced trainer aircraft
co-manufactured by Dornier of Germany
and Dassault-Breguet of France. Adopted
by many air forces worldwide, the Alpha
Jet continues to be widely used even after
its useful service life is over for its primary
operators, France and Germany.
The French Air Force decided to use the
Alpha Jet primarily as a trainer, while the
Luftwaffe used the type mainly in the light strike
role, preferring to continue flight training in the
south-western United States on American trainer
types instead of performing training in Germany,
although Germany also used Alpha Jets based at
Beja, Portugal for weapons training.*
Other operators included Belgium, Cameroon,
Egypt, Morocco, Nigeria, Portugal, Qatar,
Thailand, Togo, and private contractor companies
in Canada and the United Kingdom.
The Alpha Jet was considered by the RAAF as a
replacement for the Macchi 326 trainer aircraft that
was due to retire in 1994, but it lost out to the BAE
Systems Hawk Mk 127.
Kinetic has just released the first 1:48 scale
injection moulded kit of the Alpha Jet since the old
and now rare Esci Alpha Jet. Until now, the only
other option has been the very nice resin kit from PJ
Production. The Esci kit was very basic and bare
on detail, which was typical of Esci at that time but
at least it had the shape of the Alpha Jet.
Kinetics 1:48 scale Alpha Jet comprises more
than 172 light grey injection moulded parts, 20
clear parts and 7 etched metal parts. The fuselage
is constructed from three main parts to which are
added the nose cone, wings, intakes, and fin. The
intakes have full intake ducting back to the engine
compressor face. This is a big plus.
The surface detail is fine and restrained and the
best that Kinetic has done so far. It represents the
panel lines of the Alpha Jet without being overdone.
The wings are spot on, the anhedral looks
correct, while wing panel detail is great and
correct. Separate flaps are provided and can be
positioned in the up or down positions.
The wheel wells look good but they are missing
all the hydraulic pipework that is evident in the
wheel wells.
A major plus point is the speed brake bays.
Separate speed brakes have been provided and
this should be greatly applauded as it may be
positioned either open or closed.
Wheels are provided in typical Kinetic style of
separate wheel hubs sandwiched between two
tyre halves.
The cockpit has sufficient detail with nicely
detailed Martin Baker Mk.10 ejection seats and
instrument panels with
photo-etched harness
assemblies being
provided.
The transparencies
are crystal clear and
well moulded with
the canopy is broken
into three parts to allow the canopies to
be positioned in the open position.
Alternate nose cones are also provided for
the A or E version, as are alternate in-fill panels,
antennae and fuselage scoops for both the
French and German versions of the aircraft.
The stores supplied for this kit are as follows:
4 underwlng luel lonks
Cenlre llne smoll gun pod
Cenlre llne lorge gun pod lor Germon Alpho )el A
The kit represents a late Alpha Jet A and
E fitted with the Martin Baker Mk.10 seat. It
does not contain the early Stencel seat so the
modeller cannot build a German Alpha Jet A or
Belgium Alpha Jet B or any other early version
but according to Kinetic this kit will be released
by another company with resin parts to depict an
early Alpha Jet.
Decals for three schemes are provided:
Alpho )el A ol Dlscovery Alr Delence Servlces
- Canada (formerly Top Aces) finished in a wrap-
around camouflage scheme of FS 35180 Gloss
Light Blue, F36270 Gloss Medium Grey and FS
27874 Gloss White
Alpho )el A ol Clnellq nlled Klngdom llnlshed
overall Gloss Black with Gloss White outer wings.
Alpho )el E ol lhe French Alr Force llnlshed ln
overall Gloss Black.
CONCLUSION
Big kudos to Kinetic - this is another excellent kit.
Kinetics Alpha Jet may be built as either a late A
or a late E type. Detail is very good and surface
detail is their best yet.
Highly Recommended
Thanks to Lucky Model for the samplewww.
luckymodel.com
Historical summary courtesy of Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dassault/Dornier_
Alpha_Jet
ALPHA JET
PB Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2013
KIT PREVIEW: Klnellc Models 1:48 Dossoull,Dornler Alpho )el. Kll Mo. 48043
Mick Evans gets an early look at
Kinetics latest 1:48 scale kit the
Alpha Jet A/E.
The canopies may be posed open.
A modest photo-etched fret supplies harness straps.
Surface detail is
well done.
One of the fuselage halves.
p53 preview - kinetic alpha jet 031.indd 53 26/09/2013 12:36
Feature Article: Kllly Howk Models 1:48 )AS3PA,C Grlpen Kll Mo. KH8011Z
I
t seems to me that each subsequent kit release
by Kitty Hawk Models is more impressive than
lhe losl. lhls new Grlpen ls o perlecl exomple.
lhe nlce box wllh lls lovely orlwork grobs our
ollenllon lmmedlolely. Vhols more, ll ls llghlly
pocked wllh lovely plosllc sprues.
A closer look ol lhe porls doesnl spoll lhe good
llrsl lmpresslon. As usuol, we llnd very sublle ponel
ond rlvel llnes. lhe loller ore qulle obundonl.
As ln lhe cose ol lhe )oguor ond Mlroge F.1 klls,
we gel o lorge sel ol exlernol weopons. ln locl,
some ol lhese hove been deslgned lor Kllly Howks
lwo mosl recenl olrcroll releoses, bul lhe sprues
olso lnclude lhe ordnonce dlsllncllve lor Grlpen.
lhe decols ore crlsp, llowlessly prlnled, ond
ln perlecl reglsler. lhe lorge Czech llger Meel
morklngs lor lhe lln ore lhe hlghllghls ol lhe sheel.
lhe delolls ore olso nlce ond shorp. lhe e|eclor
pln morks ore very llne ond moslly locoled ln oreos
lhol ore lnvlslble oller ossembly. Ve donl llnd loo
mony slnk morks ellher.
However, lhe presence ol surloce oreo morks
lell by lhe ocluol sllde mould llsell ls o slgnlllconl
dlsodvonloge, especlolly slnce lhe ponel llnes ore
very sublle. Monelheless, lhls ls nol lhe moln lssue
ol lhls kll.
GRIFFIN RISING
Komll Fellks Szlorbolo bullds lhe new 1:48
scole )AS3P Grlpen lrom Kllly Howk Models.
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 54 27/09/2013 14:30
Aircraft Edition 55
It seems to me that each subsequent kit
release by Kitty Hawk Models is more
impressive than the last...
GRIFFIN RISING
ASSEMBLY
In accordance with the instructions
I started by completing the cockpit.
No problems appeared at this stage
of construction.
The first of the small number of sink
marks was located in the nose landing
gear bay. I filled this with C.A. glue.
The nose section consists of quite a number
of parts so I had to use a few clamps and
some pressure to fit them properly.
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 55 27/09/2013 14:30
Following the instructions, I began assembling the engine. The simplification
of this isnt an issue, since only the exhaust nozzle and its interior are
visible in the finished kit.
The photo etched part that forms the inner surface of the exhaust
nozzle was shaped with the help of the excellent photo-etch rolling
tool manufactured by The Small Shop.
Once Id soldered the photo-etched tube,
I could mount it in the engine housing.
Despite using pressure, some
gaps appeared in the joints of
the nose section.
I filled these with black C.A. adhesive.
This way, I also strengthened the
connection of the nose halves.
The forward fuselage required some
weight to be added. I curled a piece of
Lead sheet and glued it inside the nose.
I then focused on the main sections of
the airframe. Unfortunately, the fuselage
halves turned out to be a little warped,
therefore they didnt fit too well.
To join them properly,
I had to employ some
clamps and use physical
force again.
On the other hand, the main landing
gear bays went together easily
which was not the case
with the wing halves.
After connecting the wings to the fuselage, I had to fill the resulting gaps.
To apply Tamiya putty precisely, I used the brush which is connected to the
cap of the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 56 27/09/2013 14:31
Aircraft Edition 57
The gaps between some
of the sections were wide
enough to fill them with
small pieces of styrene
instead of the putty.
I then mated all previously completed
sections together, again being forced
to use putty here and there.
While browsing some reference
photos to determine the typical
set of external stores that were
loaded onto the Czech Gripens,
I noticed that the kit is missing
a distinctive auxiliary fuel tank,
which therefore had to be scratch
built. I started by gluing a few
pieces of styrene sheet together.
Next, I took a
jewellers saw blade
and cut out the rough
shape of the fuel tank.
I gave it its proper shape using coarse sandpaper glued to a piece of wood. That allows me to get an
even surface.
The prepared part was then smoothed with polishing blocks.
During this process I subsequently switched to higher grade
grits, beginning with 80 and finishing with 220.
Afterwards, I scribed panel lines with the help
of an Olfa P-cutter and 3M masking tape.
Before I drilled the mounting holes, I had to fit the tank to the pylon. The final step was to add the fins which I had cut out from the pieces of thin styrene sheet.
At this point, I also assembled the other external stores.
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 57 27/09/2013 14:31
The air brakes in the kit are designed to be attached only
in the open position. However, I decided to close them.
After lengthening the actuators, I glued the air brakes in
their place
and filled the gaps with small pieces of styrene.
Since the kits Pitot tube was not the
finest one Id ever seen, I replaced it
with one of the newest products of
Polish company, MASTER.
A, To move forward with the build, I had to paint the cockpit. I began by
priming it with Mr.Color C8 Silver.
B, Once the silver layer had dried, the interior was given a coat of Mr.Color
C60 German Grey. This particular colour from Mr.Color range is much
darker than its equivalents offered by other model paint manufacturers.
C, The edges and other particular areas were slightly highlighted with
strongly diluted Tamiya XF-53 Neutral Grey, whilst the side panels were
painted with Vallejos Light Grey.
D, Next, I brought out the details by applying an almost black
AK-interactives AK075 Wash for NATO camo vehicles, and dry brushed
the edges with Vallejos Light Grey.
E, I then mounted not only the ejection seat, but also some small parts
which were to be attached to the canopy, as per the instructions. Since I
wanted to fix the canopy in a closed position, there would be no difference
if I connected latter details either to the cockpit, or canopy, but gluing
anything to clear parts is always risky.
After fitting the canopy, I could finish the assembly.
I prepared the landing gear covers and other
smaller details. Of course, some of them were only
temporarily attached to the kit in order to check if
they fitted properly. I left these parts separate in
order to make the subsequent stages easier.
A. B. C.
D. E.
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 58 27/09/2013 14:31
Aircraft Edition 59
PAINTING
Before I applied the silver priming coat,
I masked the clear parts with Tamiya
tape and masking fluid from Wamod.
My next step was to
darken the panel lines and
demarcation of some detail
on the underside, with
strongly diluted Tamiya
XF-63 German Grey.
The upper surfaces were
pre-shaded in a similar
fashion, but this time I
used XF-1 Black instead
of German Grey.
I then sprayed some transparent
layers of Mr.Color C72 Intermediate
Blue over most of the rivet lines
and some particular panels on the
undersides.
Next, I switched to
Mr.Color C12 Olive Drab
and treated the upper
surfaces in a similar way
as the underside in the
previous step.
The pre-shading and pre-lighting stages were
finished by highlighting the remaining rivet
lines and panel demarcations which contained
visible screw lines, with strongly diluted
Mr.Hobby H001 White. I also added some
smudges to the wings and fuselage.
A few transparent layers of
strongly diluted Mr.Color C334
Barley Grey formed the base
colour of the underside.
After masking the colour demarcations with
rolls of plasticine, I applied Mr.Color C305
FS36118 Gray to the upper surfaces of the kit.
Once Id painted various details,
including the external stores, I
secured the paintwork with a
layer of clear gloss coat.
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 59 27/09/2013 14:32
As Ive already mentioned, the decals are very good in quality, as is typical for Kitty Hawk Models kits. It is
worth noting that the decal sheet includes far more stencils for the external ordnance than for the actual airframe
itself. Due to the large quantity of the aforementioned maintenance markings, the process of applying the decals
was quite time-consuming. Another reason was that I had chosen a Czech aircraft with large commemorative
markings on the fin. Since such decals have to be printed differently than typical markings, these markings are
quite thick. Therefore, they required a lot of decal setting solution. However, after a few hours these decals nicely
conformed to the recesses of the kit surface.
The model was then given a coat of gloss varnish. Once it had dried, I
brought out the details with AK Interactives AK070 Brown Blue Wash for
Panzer Grey Vehicles. I applied the mixture onto the panel lines, rivets and
some other areas, and soon removed the excess with a paper towel.
The effect was sealed with a layer of clear matt
varnish. I also started attaching some parts,
which were left separate for the painting stage.
WEATHERING
My first step was to recreate the distinctive stains aft the ailerons and
slats. I began by brush painting some thin lines with AK Interactives
AK014 Winter Streaking Grime.
The dirt and discolouration caused by the hot air were recreated by
airbrushing a fine mist of AK Interactive AK076 Brown Filter For
NATO Tanks.
I also sprayed a little AK082 Engine Grime over the surfaces around
the cockpit, and removed the excess enamel by rolling a cotton bud
slightly dampened with white spirit over this area.
The exhaust stains on the rear fuselage were reproduced by airbrushing
some AK075 Wash for NATO camo vehicles. This way, I also added
more volume to the discolouration previously recreated in this area.
This action required setting the compressor to a minimal air pressure.
Next, I removed the excess enamel with a brush dampened with
white spirit.
The underside was treated in a similar way, but I also added some
streaks around various covers and apertures.
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 60 27/09/2013 14:31
Aircraft Edition 61
MODELSPEC
Kitty Hawk Models 1:48 JAS-39A/C Gripen Kit No. KH80117
Paints and Weathering Products Used:
Tamiya acrylic enamels
Wamod Masking Fluid
Mr.Hobbys Mr.Color and Hobby Color paints
AK-Interactives: AK014 Winter Streaking Grime; AK070 Brown Blue
Wash for Panzer Grey Vehicles; AK076 Brown Filter For NATO Tanks;
AK082 Engine Grime.
Enjoyable build; fine surface detail; a welcome 21st Century
quality kit of this attractive aircraft.
Slide mould marks interfere with some of the fine
surface detail; a few sink marks; gaps and fit problems here
and there.
RATING: 8 out of 10
Kitty Hawk Models are available from Pacific Coast Models
www.pacmodelscatalog.com and Hannants www.hannants.co.uk
The final touch was to mount the wheels and then attach
the turned metal pitot tube from MASTER, to the fin.
It is worth noting that the decal sheet
includes far more stencils for the external
ordnance than for the actual airframe itself...
p 54-61 Gripen 031B.indd 61 27/09/2013 14:32
W
e were first introduced to HK Models
a while ago when they released their
B-25 Mitchell kits and now we have
something that has truly brought
the new company to prominence within
the aircraft modelling scene, the iconic
Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress. The first of their
Fortresses is the G model with chin-turret but
according to an illustration on the side of the
kit-box, the earlier F model will be released too,
enabling modellers to build the best known B-17
of all, the Memphis Belle.
While we wait for the F, we have the G kit to
build And what a kit it is! HK Models has detailed
pretty much the whole of the fuselage interior,
providing not only a full cockpit (of course) but also
the bomb bay with ordnance load, radio operators
office, bomb-aimers station in the nose, plus
dorsal and tail gunners positions. The ventral ball-
turret has not been neglected and this distinctive
part of the Fortresss defensive armament system is
comprehensively replicated from the internal mount
to the guns and their ammunition feeds. Only the
gunners seat is missing.
The main cabin is a little work of art with
pilot and co-pilots seats on their tall frames,
flight controls, instruments and oxygen bottles all
depicted. The fuselage bulkheads are huge in this
sale and each is laden with raised and recessed
detail that will really pop when painted with
some creativity.
The bomb bay comes with ten bombs, each
sporting fuse-arming impellors and two-part tail
fins. Sensibly, the bomb bay builds onto the back
of the cockpit module, forming a larger unit with
support frames that sit securely within the fuselage
halves. The cabin roof is a separate moulding that
simply drops down onto the assembled fuselage
and receives its window panels at the same
time. The nose section is separate from the main
fuselage to allow the F version of the aircraft to
be depicted. Its moulded in two halves with bomb
aimers floor and controls and simply plugs into
the completed fuselage. Lets hope the fit is good!
Throughout initial construction with the
exception of the ball-turret and dorsal guns the
barrels are left off the machine gun bodies,
which will greatly help in the masking/painting
process, and theres lot of glazing panels on
this aircraft. Four excellent representations of the
Wright R-1820 single-bank radial engines are
included, along with their pushrod rings and
individual rocker-cover parts; with the addition of
Eduards PE engine detail set, the modeller can
adorn the engines fronts with ignition harnesses
too. The engines, like the interior sub-assemblies,
A FLYING LEGEND,
NOW IN 1:32!
KIT PREVIEW: HK MCDELS 1:48 B1ZG FLYlMG FCRlRESS Kll Mo. 01E04
Marcus Nicholls takes a look into the huge box of HK Models
amazing new 1:32 B-17G Flying Fortress.
The stout box is packed full of plastic.
The size of the aircraft is obvious when seen next to Marcus hand!
Interior detail is quite comprehensive. One of the bulkheads, illustrating the level of detail moulded straight
onto the parts.
p62-63 preview - hk models b-17 031.indd 62 26/09/2013 12:40
Aircraft Edition 63
EDUARD SETS FOR THE BIG B-17G
Eduard has been very quick off the mark,
releasing separate photo-etched sets for the
engines and undercarriage, plus window masks
and resin main undercarriage tyres and wheels.
More is on the way from Eduard for this kit too.
www.eduard.com
KITS-WORLD DECALS
Kits-World has also been quick in creating
alternative decals for HK Models kit. We
received Little Miss Chief of the 324th
BS, 91st BG at Bassingborn, plus a set of
national insignia, data stencils, instrument
faces, placard, propeller logos and more, all
extremely useful for this kit. www.kitsworld.co.uk
build into neat modules that fix to the fronts of the
nacelles when ready. HK Models offers the option
of a wheels-up configuration and a very neat
touch is a special plate to allow the model to be
wall-mounted, not a bad idea given the finished
models gargantuan size!
HK Models are to be commended on this
kit release, a significant model of a very
significant aircraft and one that does the subject
proud. Detail is impressive but without being
overwhelming; all the important bits are included,
leaving the modeller to add their own extras if
they choose.
CONCLUSION
This is a truly magnificent achievement from
HK Models. They have done a great job of this
handsome bomber of WWII. Add to it the plethora
of Eduard photo-etched brass sets and it will
become a display piece worthy of a museum.
Our thanks go to Pocketbond Ltd for the review
sample. www.pocketbond.co.uk
The large decals sheet offers one marking option.
Printing and registration looks
good close up.
Photo-etched parts
include harness straps.
The lower section of the multi-part ball turret. The bombadiers nose glazing.
The tail gunners glasshouse. The kit instrument panel.
Interior structural detail is moulded all the way back into the fuselage. The beautiful waist gun ammunition belts.
p62-63 preview - hk models b-17 031.indd 63 26/09/2013 12:41
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Aircraft Edition 65
Next Issues
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ADH Publishing 2013
ISSUE No.031 November 2013
...AND MORE!
Military Illustrated Modeller
Issue 33 - Aircraft Edition
on sale 19 December, 2013
THE MAGIC MUSTANG
Youre in for a real treat when David Glen
presents his spectacular scratch built 1:5
scale P-51D Mustang.
Military Illustrated Modeller
Issue 32 - AFV Edition
on sale 21 November 2013
LET US PRAY
zgr Gner builds Bronco's 1:35
Bishop with full turret interior
OSHKOSH, BY-GOSH!
An amazing M1000 HET tractor/trailer from
Domingo Hernandez in 1:72
FIFTY SHADES OF...
Subtlety is the key with Lars Richter's
stunning Panzergrau PzIV in 1:35
FIREFLY OVER
KOREA
The Editor builds
Special Hobbys brand
new 1:48 scale Fairey
Firefly Mk.V, and
provides walk around
reference.
END OF THE LINE PART TWO
The Editor paints and weathers Grey
Matter Aviations 1:32 scale Ha-1112
Buchon conversion.
SEPECAT JAGUAR A
Feliks Kamil Sztarbala builds Kitty
Hawks 1:48 scale Jaguar A.
p65 NextIssues 031.indd 65 26/09/2013 14:11
SMALL SCALE WONDER WURGER
Tailpiece
Mark Davies concludes that the all-new
Airfix Focke-Wulf Fw 190 A-8 is the best
of the many 1:72 scale A-8 Wurgers.
Lets see why
T
he Focke-Wulf Fw 190 represented a
watershed in fighter design. In particular,
it showed how a radial engine could be
installed to rival in-line engine streamlining.
The design was rugged, fast, very manoeuvrable,
and had a powerful armament; added to which
were good pilot visibility and an ergonomic
cockpit layout. It was unmatched as a fighter when
first encountered by the RAF in 1941. Readily
adaptable to many roles, it had a wide range
of weapon and equipment fits; whilst further
development led to in-line engined versions and
the Ta 152 series of fighters. The A-8 was the most
produced version of this superlative design.
There have been many Fw 190 kits in 1:72
scale over the years. Kits of the A-8 version have
been released by Heller in 1963 (re-boxed by
Hobbycraft), Hasegawa in 1970, Airfix in 1982,
and Hasegawa again in 1985 with a new tooling;
then Academy around 1994, Italeri in 1995,
Monogram/Revell Germany in 1997, and Hobby
Boss just recently.
The 1982 Airfix kit is well regarded for
accuracy, but has raised detail. Hasegawas
1985 release is widely considered excellent in
terms accuracy and surface detail. Based on my
reading it has remained the best Fw 190A-8 kit
overall since its release. It has since been offered
in many permutations over the past 28 years.
The Monogram Pro-Modeler/Revell Germany
kit of 1997 is also a good kit; almost rivalling
Hasegawas kit for accuracy and general quality.
The Revell boxing is very attractively priced, and
is considerably cheaper than
Hasegawas kit when store-
bought. At a glance, the
Hobby Boss kit seems to have
a quite reasonable outline
appearance and surface detail;
it is attractively priced and engineered for quick
building, but I cannot comment on its accuracy.
The track record of many Hobby Boss quick-build
kits raises the spectre of glaring faults as a distinct
possibility.
It seems fair to say that Hasegawa sets the
benchmark for accuracy and Revell for value, with
Hobby Boss an unknown quantity (to me at least).
So what is Airfixs new tool Fw 190A-8 like? And
how will it rate against the competition?
This all-new 1:72 scale Fw 190 A-8 is a very good
effort from Airfix. If Arthur Bentleys plans are to be
trusted, then it is also extremely accurate. There are
some nice touches to the way the kit is engineered,
with good wheel well detail, nice cockpit detail, albeit
lacking 3D instrument panels, a commendably deep
fan shroud and representation of the engine, nicely
done exhausts, and in-flight undercarriage options.
Although still not equalling the best, the panel lines
are at least quite acceptable.
The exaggerated fabric effect on the control
surfaces needs to be filled, and the wing trailing
edges thinned down considerably, but this is easy
enough to do. Also, the tail-wheel mechanism
inspection hatch on the starboard fin needs to be
filled in. The undercarriage legs are moulded with
the oleos fully extended, and I think that they need
to be shortened about 2.5-mm for the correct stance
to be achieved. This will be fiddly as the parts to
be cut are very fine but must support the models
weight. The main wheels are below the standard
of the rest of the kit - perhaps not as bad as they
appear at first glance, but some will still want to
replace them. The decal sheet lacks a spinner
spiral required for the scheme and fails to provide
swastikas, which I feel is inexcusable these days.
But none of these criticisms are deal breakers in my
view. Most can be fixed with a little skill, and many
modellers will have spare swastika decals and be
able to mask and paint a spinner spiral if needed.
Hasegawas Fw 190 A-8 kit has slightly finer
surface detail, but cannot match Airfixs wheel wells,
engine or cockpit. It equals Airfix in outline accuracy,
but its retail price these days is ridiculous in most
markets (although second hand kit can still be worth
buying). The Revell kits surface finesse is really no
better than Airfixs, and it is let down by inferior
wheel wells and a poor canopy. It may also be less
accurate. Recent mouldings are showing evidence of
tool wear, and the price difference is negligible. On
this basis Airfix is the winner, unless you insist on the
having finest available panel lines; and have a good
bank balance to pay for a Hasegawa kit and the
detail sets it needs to better Airfix.
Despite some gripes, I still highly recommend this
new-tool Airfix Wurger.
Thanks to Airfix for the review sample
www.airfix.com
The full span lower wing.
Flat and blown canopies are included.
Fabric texture is very deep and should really be filled and sanded.
Surface detail is still a little heavy, but will be acceptable
when painted.
Left: Markings are supplied for one colourful aircraft.
p66 Tailpiece 031.indd 66 26/09/2013 12:47
p 67 IPMS 031.indd 3 27/09/2013 14:43

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military illustrated

6.50 - Nov13 (issue 031 )

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