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Magical
By Elena Nodel

Magical is the second design in the ebook, Touch of Magic, a collection of sweaters designed for everyday wear that are fun, functional, and modern. Magical is worked as a top down unusual raglan construction and is completely seamless. The design features a small front cable, ribbed sleeves, pockets, and fun hem finishing touches. Depending on the options you choose, the sweater can be boyish or girly, in other words, it is a unisex design.

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Sizes Available:
When choosing a size, please do not rely solely on age categories. Measure your child and choose the appropriate size based on actual chest measurements. About 2 -2.5 inches of positive ease is already incorporated into the pattern. Length is measured from the underarm to the end of the hemline. Yarn Requirements (yds/m) Size Chest Measurement Sweaters Length Short sleeve 230/210 260/238 330/302 350/320 390/357 420/384 430/393 450/412 475/434 525/480 575/526 700/640 750/686 sleeve 260/238 290/265 360/329 400/366 430/393 475/434 500/457 525/480 550/503 600/549 625/572 750/686 900/823 Full sleeve 300/274 330/302 400/366 450/412 480/434 525/480 550/503 575/526 625/572 700/640 750/686 900/823 1000/914

6m 9m 12m 18m 24m 3T 4T 5T 6-7 8-9 9-10 10-12 12-14

17/43.5 cm 18/46 cm 19/48.5 cm 20"/50.5 cm 21"/ 53 cm 22"/56 cm 23"/58.5 cm 24"/61 cm 25/ 63.5 cm 26/ 66 cm 27/ 68.5 cm 29/ 73.5 cm 30/76 cm

7.5/19 cm 8/20.5 cm 8.5/21.5 cm 9/23 cm 9.5/24.5 cm 10/25.5 cm 10.5/27 cm 11.5/29.5 cm 12.5/32 cm 14/35.5 cm 15/38 cm 16.5/42 cm 17.5/44.5 cm

Gauge: 21 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with US #5/3.75 mm

needles or size to obtain gauge. If you are having hard time getting that gauge, then here is what you can do: If your gauge is 22 sts and 28 rows, then work one size bigger than you normally would. If your gauge is 20 sts and 25 rows, then work a size smaller than you normally would. If your stitch gauge matches one of the above but you have more rows then you will be guided as to where to add rows to compensate.

Suggested Yarn:
Sweet Merino DK by Colour Adventures (100% merino; 250 yards/229 m in 4.0 oz/115 g); Dia Merino DK by Colour Adventures (100% merino; 231 yards/211 m in 3.53 oz/100 g); Cloud DK by Colour Adventures (80% merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 231 yds/211 m in 3.53 oz/100 g);
Exquisite DK by Lioness Arts (70% baby alpaca, 20% silk, 10% cashmere; 240 yds/219 m in 3.53 oz/100 g). Samples are shown in Sweet Merino DK (Dusk colorway) and in Exquisite DK (Iris colorway).

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Notions:
US #3/3.25 mm circular needles (30 cm and 60 or 80 cm); US #3/3.25 mm double pointed needles (optional); US # 5/ 3.75 mm circular needles (30cm, 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm); US #5/3.75 mm double pointed needles (optional); Cable needle; 3 stitch markers A, 2 markers B, and 1 marker C; 3 mm crochet hook (optional) Tapestry needle (optional); Sewing needle; Sewing thread; Lengths of waste yarn/stitch holder; 1 button (~1/2 inch wide); 2 optional buttons (3/4-1 inch wide).

p2tog = purl two stitches together as one, i.e. making 1 stitch out of 2; skp = slip one stitch as if to knit, knit the following stitch, then pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one; kfb = knit into the front of the stitch, then knit into the back of the same stitch, then slip the stitch off the left needle, 2 sts made out of 1; pfb =purl into the front of the stitch, then purl into the back of the same stitch, then slip the stitch off the left needle, 2 sts made out of 1; dliR = directional lifted increase to the right (see reference chapter): pick up the loop on the row below the next stitch on the left needle, knit it; dliL = directional lifted increase to the left (see reference chapter):pick up the loop 2 rows below the last stitch worked on the right needle and knit it; M1L = left leaning increase; with the left needle pick up the bar between stitches from the front, then knit through the back of the loop; M1R = right leaning increase; with the left needle pick up the bar between stitches from behind, then knit through the front loop; M1RP = right leaning increase; with the left needle pick up the bar between stitches from behind, then purl through the front loop. Garter ridge = is a ridge formed by knitting RS and WS once.

Abbreviations:
pm = place marker; slipm = move marker from the left needle to the right needle; k = knit; p = purl; st(s) = stitch(es); rnd(s) = round(s); RS = right side of the work; WS = wrong side of the work; k2tog = knit two stitches together as one, i.e. making 1 stitch out of 2 sts;

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Cable Key Abbreviations:

No stitch = stitch that has been decreased on the previous round. 2/2 LC = put 2 sts onto the cn, hold to the front of the work, k2, then k2 from the cn; 2/1 RPC = put 1 stitch onto the cn, hold to the back of the work, k2, then p1 from the cn; 2/1 LPC = put 2 sts onto the cn, hold to the front of the work, p1, then k2 from the cn; Close Cable Loop: 1. Slip 3 sts to the right needle.

2. Then pass the middle stitch over the 3rd (one closer to the needle tip) [1 st closed].

3. Then pass the formed stitch back to left needle.

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4. Pass the first stitch on the left needle over just transferred one [1 st closed].

5. Then transfer formed stitch back to the right needle.

6. Pass the first stitch on the right needle over just transferred one [1 st closed].

7. Then transfer formed stitch back to the left needle; pass the first stitch on the left needle over just transferred one [1 st closed].

8. Leave the stitch where it is and purl it.

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Pattern Notes:
1. If you are using other than recommended yarn, you might need ~ 50 -70 yards more (but not necessarily) or less yarn for your project (~ 50-100 yards less for alpaca/silk blends). 2. You will start your garment by working on the neckband first, and then you continue by shaping back and front. To start with, you will be working flat, and then eventually the work will be joined for working in the round. 3. Once sleeves are separated, you will have to choose pattern options and proceed based on those as appropriate (i.e. girly version or boyish/unisex). 4. Raglan increases for front and back are done on every row for the most part. 5. Sleeve increases are done at 6, 7, 8 rows intervals (depending on your size). 6. There are two cables to choose from. I recommend working Cable Chart A for sizes 6m to 6-7 and Cable Chart B for sizes 8-9 and up, however you may use either cable for any size. 7. When the cable chart is finished, the previously cabled sts are part of the body and should be knitted. 8. While shaping the sweater body, you will have an option for working pockets. This option is suitable for both styles (girly and unisex/boyish). 9. Body sts are placed on hold. Pockets are worked in parts: the pocket itself and the pocket trims. Pocket trims are worked with I-cord edgings. The technique creates short rows automatically, thus making trims curvy and allowing them to fit nicely alongside the pocket flaps edge. 10. Once pocket(s) and pocket trims are made, they are attached together with crochet hook or sewed together with a tapestry needle. 11. The rest of the body is worked next, and then the pocket(s) are attached to the body by knitting pocket and body sts together. 12. There are 3 different hemlines to choose from. 13. Sleeves can be worked as short sleeves, or sleeve, or full length sleeves. 14. Sleeves have girly and unisex/boyish versions.

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Cable Chart A:

Written Instructions:
Round 1: p3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p3. Round 2: p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2. Round 3: p1, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p1. Round 4: p1, k2, p6, k2, p1. Round 5: p1, k2, p6, k2, p1. Round 6: p1, k2, p6, k2, p1. Round 7: p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1. Round 8: k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1. Round 9: k1, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1. Round 10: k1, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k1. Round 11: k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1. Round 12: k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1. Round 13: k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1. Round 14: k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1. Round 15: k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1. Round 16: k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2. Round 17: k2, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k2. Round 18: k2, p1, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p1, k2. Round 19: k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2. Round 20: k2, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k2. Round 21: k2, p1, close cable loop, p1, k2.

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Cable Chart B:

Round 9: p1, 2/1 LPC, p6, 2/1 RPC, p1. Round 10: k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1. Round 11: k1, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1. Round 12: k1, p3, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p3, k1. Round 13: k1, p4, 2/2 LC, p4, k1. Round 14: k1, p3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p3, k1. Round 15: k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1. Round 16: k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1. Round 17: k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1. Round 18: k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1. Round 19: k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1. Round 20: k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1. Round 21: k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2. Round 22: k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k2. Round 23: k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k2. Round 24: k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k2. Round 25: k2, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1, k2. Round 26: k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2. Round 27: k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2. Round 28: k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2. Round 29: k3, p1, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p1, k3. Round 30: k3, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k3. Round 31: k3, p1, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p1, k3. Round 32: k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3. Round 33: k3, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k3. Round 34: k3, p1, close cable loop, p1, k3.

Written Instructions:
Round 1: p4, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p4. Round 2: p3, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3. Round 3: p2, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2. Round 4: p1, 2/1 RPC, p6, 2/1 LPC, p1. Round 5: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1. Round 6: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1. Round 7: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1. Round 8: p1, k2, p8, k2, p1.

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Pattern Instructions:
Sizes are set up as follows: 6m (9m, 12m, 18m, 24m), ( 3T, 4T, 5T, 6-7), (8-9, 9-10, 10-12, 12-14).

NECKBAND:
Using long tail cast on and 40 cm larger sized needles (3.75mm), cast on 59 (63, 63, 67, 67), (67, 71, 71, 71), (75, 79, 83, 87 ) sts. Rows 1-3 (WS, RS, WS): knit. Row 4(RS) buttonhole row: k2, yo, knit to the end, 1 stitch increased. Sizes 6m to 24m only: Rows 5-7 (WS, RS, WS): knit. Go to Bodice instructions. Sizes 3T to 6-7 only: Rows 5-9 (WS, RS, WS, RS, WS): knit. Go to Bodice instructions. Sizes 8-9 and up only: Rows 5-11 (WS, RS, WS, RS, WS, RS, WS): knit. Go to Bodice Instructions.

Note: the larger sections of stitches between markers are sleeve sts. Row 2 (WS): k3, slipm, work sleeves as given for your size, slipm, kfb x2, slipm, work sleeve as given for your size below, slipm, k3. Sleeves Sizes 6m and 8-9 only: k2, *(p2, k2)*, repeat * till marker Sleeves Sizes 9m, 12m, and 9-10 only: p1, *(k2, p2)*, repeat * till last 3 sts before marker, k2, p1 Sleeves Sizes 18m to 3T, and 10-12 only: p2, *(k2, p2)*, repeat * till marker Sleeves Sizes 4T to 6-7 and 12-14 only: k1, *(p2, k2) *, repeat * till last 3 sts before marker, p2, k1 Row 3 (RS): k2, kfb, slipm, work sleeves as given for your size, slipm, [pfb, p1] x2, slipm, work sleeves as given for your size, slipm, kfb, k2 Sleeves Sizes 6m and 8-9 only: p2, *(k2, p2)*, repeat * till marker

BODICE:
Row 1 (RS): knit and place markers as follows: K3, pm C, knit 26 (28, 28, 30, 30), (30, 32, 32, 32), (34, 36, 38, 40), pm A, k2, pm A, knit 26 (28, 28, 30, 30), (30, 32, 32, 32), (34, 36, 38, 40), pm A, k3.

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M a g i c a l | 10 Sleeves Sizes 9m, 12m, and 9-10 only: k1, *(p2, k2)*, repeat * till last 3 sts before marker, p2, k1 Sleeves Sizes 18m to 3T, and 10-12 only: k2, *(p2, k2)*, repeat * till marker Sleeves Sizes 4T to 6-7 and 12-14 only: p1, *(k2, p2) *, repeat * till last 3 sts before marker, k2, p1 Row 4 (WS): k3, pfb, slipm, work sleeves as given for your size on Row 2, slipm, kfb, k3, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves as given for your size on Row 2, slipm, pfb, k3 Row 5 (RS): k3, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves as given for your size on Row 3, slipm, pfb, p3, M1R, M1L, p2, pfb, p1, slipm, work sleeves as given for your size on Row 3, slipm, kfb, k4. Row 6 (WS): k3, p1, pfb, p1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern, slipm, kfb, k4, M1RP, p2, M1RP, k3, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern, slipm, pfb, p2, k3. Sizes 6m to 6-7 only: Row 7 (RS)/Rnd 1 joining in the round: k5, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern, slipm, kfb, k1, work Rnd 1 of the Chart A over the next central 12 sts (page 7), kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern, slipm, kfb, k3, place last 3 sts on the cable needle and hold to the back of the first 3 sts on the left needle, knit stitches together from the left needle with the ones held on the cable needle. You have just joined your work for knitting in the round. Knit to the 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1. Marker C is now your beginning of the round marker. Sizes 8-9 and up only: Row 7 (RS)/Rnd 1 joining in the round: k5, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeves in pattern, slipm, kfb, work Rnd 1 of the Chart B over the central 14 sts (page 8), kfb, slipm, work sleeves in pattern, slipm, kfb, k3, place last 3 sts on the cable needle and hold to the back of the first 3 sts on the left needle, knit stitches together from the left needle with the ones held on the cable needle. You have just joined your work for knitting in the round. Knit to the 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1. Marker C is now your beginning of the round marker. All Sizes: You should have 18 sts at the front and 14 sts at the back. Please read instructions on the following pages (page 11 - 12) in full before continuing knitting, up to Separate Sleeves chapter.

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M a g i c a l | 11 Rnd 2 sleeve increases: M1R, work sleeve in the established pattern till marker, M1L, slipm, kfb, knit to front central 12/14 sts, pm B, work cable Rnd 2, pm B, knit to 2 sts before marker , kfb, k1, slipm, M1R, work sleeve in the established pattern till marker, M1L, slipm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1. Note: newly made sleeve sts need to be worked into the existing rib pattern. For example, if your sleeve edge stitches were p1, k2.k2, p1, then the newly made sts need to be purl stitches as to give you p2, k2.k2, p2 thus continuing the rib pattern. Rnd 3: work sleeve in the established pattern bringing newly made sts into the established rib pattern, slipm, kfb, knit to front central 12/14 sts, slipm B, work central stiches cable Rnd 3, slipm B, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeve in the established pattern bringing newly made sts into the established rib pattern, slipm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1. Rnd 4: work sleeve in the established pattern, slipm, kfb, knit to front central 12/14 sts, slipm B, work appropriate cable rnd (Rnd 4 for this rnd), slipm B, knit to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, slipm, work sleeve in the established pattern, slipm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1. Note 1: once you get the correct number of sts for each sleeve, just continue working sleeve sts in rib pattern without further increases for the following section. Work as given on Rnd 4 (i.e. raglan increases on every row) until you have the following number of sts for Back: (read note 2 on the following page) 44 (44, 48, 50, 52), (56, 62, 64, 66), (66, 68, 68, 74) sts Keep working as given for Rnd 4, working appropriate cable rnd, and then working Sleeve Increase Rnd every 8th (7th, 7th, 7th, 7th), (7th, 7th, 7th, 6th ), (6th, 6th, 6th, 6th) rnd till you have the following number of sts for each sleeve: 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts. Sleeve Increase Rnd: M1R, work sleeve in the established pattern, M1L, slipm, kfb, knit to front central 12/14 sts, slipm B, work appropriate cable Rnd, slipm B, knit to 2 sts before marker , kfb, k1, slipm, M1R, work sleeve in the established pattern, M1L, slipm, kfb, knit to 2 sts before marker C, kfb, k1. Keep working as given for Rnd 4, working appropriate cable rnd at the same time for 4 rnds.

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M a g i c a l | 12 Note 2: If your row gauge is smaller than the one given for your stitch gauge (for example 30 rows instead of 28), then for sizes up to 3T stop at 2 sts less for back than the above. For sizes 4T and up: stop at 4sts less for back than the above and work as follows (work 2 rnds below once up to size 3T and twice for other sizes): Rnd 1: work in pattern across all sts with no increases. Rnd 2: work as rnd 4. Continue with instructions below as appropriate for the size you are making. Note 3: If you havent worked last 2 rnds of the cable, then your front will have 4 more sts than the back. Note 4: Once the front cable is complete, the remaining 3 purl sts will be worked as knit stitches on the RS as the rest of the body from this point on. Remove markers B1 and B2 when the cables are finished. Sizes 6m to 3T, 8-9 to 12-14 only: work next two rnds as follows: Rnd 1: work all sts in pattern with no increases. Rnd 2: as rnd 4. Sizes 6m to 24m, 10-12, and 12-14 only: repeat rnds 1 and 2 above. All sizes: work in pattern, no increases. Back should have 48 (48, 52, 54, 56), (58, 62, 64, 66), (68, 70, 72, 78) sts. Once again, If you havent finished last 2 cable rnds, the front will have 4 more sts than the back. Total stitch count should be 101 (107, 113, 117, 123), (127, 133, 139, 143), (149, 155, 159, 167) sts. (Please note that if you are still working on the Cables then you will have 5 sts more than the total counts given).

SEPARATE SLEEVES:
Continue with your cables to the end of the chart if necessary and at the same time: Girly version: Remove marker C, put the next 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts on hold, remove marker, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1, 2), (2, 1, 2, 2), (2, 3, 3, 3) sts, pm C (beginning of rnd marker), cast on 1 (2, 2, 2, 2), (2, 2, 2, 2), (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, kfb into the first stitch of the front, work across front stitches to the last stitch, kfb, remove marker, put next 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts on hold, remove marker, cast on 1 (2, 2, 2, 2), (2, 2, 2, 2), (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, place marker A, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1, 2), (2, 1, 2, 2), (2, 3, 3, 3) sts, kfb into the first back stitch, knit across back stitches to the last stitch, kfb.

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M a g i c a l | 13 Unisex/Boyish version: Remove marker C, put the next 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts on hold, remove marker, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1, 2), (3, 2, 3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, place marker C (beginning of the rnd marker), cast on 1 (2, 2, 2, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, kfb into the first stitch of the front, knit across front stitches to the last stitch, kfb, remove marker, put next 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts on hold, remove marker, cast on 1 (2, 2, 2, 3), (3, 3, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, place marker A, cast on 0 (2, 1, 1, 2), (3, 2, 3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, kfb into the first back stitch, knit across back stitches to the last stitch, kfb. Total stitch count should be 101 (107, 113, 117, 125), (131, 137, 143, 147), (153, 159, 163, 171) sts. (Please note that if you are still working on the Cables then you will have 5 sts more than the total counts given). Girly version without pockets: Knit and increase at the sides after every 2-3 inches until the hem as follows: K2, M1L or dliL, knit to 2 sts before marker, M1R or dliR, k2, slipm, k2, M1L or dliL, knit to 2 sts before the end of the rnd, M1R or dliR, k2. Knit and work increases till the sweater measures about 5.5 (6, 7, 7.5, 8), (8.5, 9, 10, 11), (12.5, 13.5, 15, 16) inches or 14 (15.5, 18, 19, 20.5), (21.5, 23, 25.5, 28), (32, 34.5, 38, 40.5) cm as measured from the underarm or till desired length minus 1.5 inches/4 cm. Proceed to the Hemline Chapter, page 17. Girly version with pockets: Knit and increase at the sides after every 2-3 inches until the hem as follows: K2, M1L or dliL, knit to 2 sts before marker, M1R or dliR, k2, slipm, k2, M1L or dliL, knit to 2 sts before the end of the rnd, M1R or dliR, k2. Knit and work increases till the sweater measures about 2.5 (3, 3.25, 3.75, 3.75), (4.25, 4.75, 5.25, 6.25), (7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches or 6.5 (7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 9.5), (11, 12, 13.5, 16), (19, 21.5, 24.5, 27) cm as measured from the underarm or till desired length minus 4.5 (4.5, 5.25, 5.25, 5.75), (5.75, 5.75, 6, 6), (6.75, 6.75, 7.5, 7.5) inches or 11.5 (11.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5), (14.5, 14.5, 15.5, 15.5), (17.5, 17.5, 19, 19) cm. Proceed to the Pockets Chapter, page 14.

BODY:
You can easily adjust body length by knitting to the desired length. For example, if you are making your sweater based on a chest size, but not on the age group, then knit to the length specified for the proper age group or till desired length.

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M a g i c a l | 14 Unisex/Boyish version without pockets: Knit till the sweater measures about 5.5 (6, 7, 7.5, 8), (8.5, 9, 10, 11), (12.5, 13.5, 15, 16) inches or 14 (15.5, 18, 19, 20.5), (21.5, 23, 25.5, 28), (32, 34.5, 38, 40.5) cm as measured from the underarm or till desired length minus 1.5 inches/4 cm. Proceed to the Hemline Chapter, page 17. Unisex/Boyish version with pockets: Knit till the sweater measures about 2.5 (3, 3.25, 3.75, 3.75), (4.25, 4.75, 5.25, 6.25), (7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches or 6.5 (7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 9.5), (11, 12, 13.5, 16), (19, 21.5, 24.5, 27) cm as measured from the underarm or till desired length minus 4.5 (4.5, 5.25, 5.25, 5.75), (5.75, 5.75, 6, 6), (6.75, 6.75, 7.5, 7.5) inches or 11.5 (11.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5), (14.5, 14.5, 15.5, 15.5), (17.5, 17.5, 19, 19) cm. Proceed to the Pockets Chapter. Starting from the beginning of the rnd marker, knit 7 (7, 10, 10, 12), (13, 13, 13, 13), (13, 14, 15, 16) sts, place marker, knit to the 10 (10, 13, 13, 15), (16, 16, 16, 16), (16, 17, 18, 19) sts before the other side marker, turn your work. Insert a lifeline into these front sts to enable body sts to be picked up at the correct point later. Set up: You will be setting up pocket stitches and putting pocket trim sts on hold. Trim sts need to be worked separately as they need to be worked for more rows then the rest of the pocket to enable them to snugly fit the curve created by the pocket flap; once complete, pocket trim sts will no longer be a part of the base of the pocket, but rather a vertical side to the pocket (see picture below; arrows show the pocket trim sts location at the start and at the end).

POCKETS:
Keep all your markers in place, i.e. beginning of the rnd marker and side marker. Approximate pocket length: 3 (3, 3.75, 3.75, 4.25), (4.25, 4.25, 4.75, 4.75), (5, 5, 5.5, 5.5) inches or 7.5 (7.5, 9.5, 9.5, 11), (11, 11, 12, 12), (13, 13, 14, 14) cm. Follow pocket instructions based on the appropriate age group, not the chest size.

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M a g i c a l | 15 Row 1 (WS): Keep working yarn at the front, place 3 sts from your right needle to the left needle. Working yarn will be coming
between the sts on the left needle and the newly transferred ones. Pull the yarn

Row 5 (WS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl to the end of row. Repeat Rows 4-5 : 6 (6, 8, 8, 10), (10, 10, 11, 11), (12, 12, 13, 13) more times. You should have increased by 8 (8, 10, 10, 12), (12, 12, 13, 13), (14, 14, 15, 15) sts at each pocket side and worked a total of 17 (17, 21, 21, 25), (25, 25, 27, 27), (29, 29, 31, 31) rows, ending with the WS row. That count includes the set up rows. Row 6 (RS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit to the end of the row, then cast on 4 (4, 5, 5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 6), (6, 7, 7, 8) sts. Row 7 (WS): purl, at the end of the row cast on 4 (4, 5, 5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 6), (6, 7, 7, 8) sts. Row 8 (RS): knit Row 9 (WS): purl. Leave sts on hold and cut yarn. Total number of rows worked is 21 (21, 25, 25, 29), (29, 29, 31, 31), (33, 33, 35, 35). You will be working on pocket trims next. Right Pocket Trim (as worn): Transfer the 8 sts from hold onto the needles, and with RS facing you attach yarn at the end of the sts. Turn your work over. Row 1 (WS): pfb, knit 4, turn work over.

towards the tip of the left needle, and purl 3 sts, knit 5. Put the 8 sts you just worked on stitch holder for pocket trim. Purl to the last 8 sts before marker, then knit 5, turn your work. Row 2 (RS): Keep working yarn at the back, place 3 sts from your right needle to the left needle. You can remove the pocket marker now. Working yarn will be at the
back and coming between the sts on the left needle and the newly transferred ones. Pull

the yarn towards the tip of the left needle, and knit 8 sts. Put the 8 sts you have just worked on the stitch holder. Note: Stitches on hold are the pocket trim sts and will be worked separately from the rest of the pockets. Pocket Flap: Row 2 (RS continued): slip 1 stitch as if to purl, M1R or dliR, knit to the last stitch before sts on hold, M1L or dliL, k1, turn your work. Row 3 (WS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl to the end of row. Row 4 (RS) increase row: slip first stitch as if to purl, M1R or dliR, knit to the last stitch, M1L or dliL, k1.

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M a g i c a l | 16 Row 2 (RS): Keep working yarn at the back, place 3 sts from your right needle to the left needle. Working yarn will be at the back and coming between the sts on the left needle and the newly transferred ones. Pull the yarn towards the tip of the left needle, and knit 9 sts. Row 3 (WS): slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 5, turn work over. Keep repeating Rows 2-3 till the pocket trim fits all the way around the curve of the pocket. You should have worked about 17 (17, 18, 18, 20), (20, 20, 22, 22), (23, 24, 25, 26) garter ridges as seen on the RS. Bind off on next WS row knitwise. Cut yarn. Left Pocket Trim (as worn): Transfer sts from hold onto the needles, and with RS facing you attach yarn at the beginning of the sts. Row 1 (RS): kfb, knit 4, turn work over. Row 2 (WS): Keep working yarn at the front, place 3 sts from your right needle to the left needle. Working yarn will be coming between the sts on the left needle and the newly transferred ones. Pull the yarn towards the tip of the left needle, and purl 3 sts, knit 5, p1. Row 3 (RS): slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 5, turn work over. Keep repeating Rows 2-3 till the pocket trim fits all the way around the curve of the Using the lifeline as a guide, attach yarn before the start of the pocket and with works RS and pockets WS facing you pick up and knit the back top loop/purl bump of each pocket stitch (along trims and pocket); knit to the end of the rnd. Knit for 20 (20, 24, 24, 28), (28, 28, 30, 30), (32, 32, 34, 34) rnds. Place pocket sts on spare needles. On your next rnd, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3, 2, 2), (1, 1, 1, 1), align pocket sts with body sts. Knit through one pocket stitch and 1 body stitch together till all pocket sts have been pocket. You should have worked about 18 (18, 19, 19, 21), (21, 21, 23, 23), (24, 25, 26, 27) garter ridges as seen on the RS, finish with a WS row. Next RS row: knit all sts. Bind off knitwise. Cut yarn. Using crochet hook or tapestry needle attach/sew the pocket trims to the pocket edges. You were slipping stitches; those should form a nice clear selvage edge and make it easier for attaching trims to the pocket edges. Ensure the trim is fitted into the curves created on the pocket flap so that the bind off section of the trim is vertical, for sewing in place later. Kangaroo pocket:

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M a g i c a l | 17 joined with the body sts, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3, 2, 2), (1, 1, 1, 1), slipm, knit to the end of the rnd. Knit for two rnds. Go to Hemline Chapter. Two Pockets: Using the lifeline as a guide and with works RS and pockets WS facing you, attach yarn 5 sts away before the start of the left pocket trim, pick up and knit 5 sts through the back top loop/purl bump underneath the pocket, then pick up and knit sts underneath the left pocket trim (8 sts). (13 sts total). Knit across to the beginning of the rnd. Next rnd: knit to the start of the pocket and pick up 13 sts similar to the way you have done on the other side. Turn work. Row 1 (WS): purl Row 2 (RS): knit Repeat Rows 1 and 2 till you have worked a total of 20 (20, 24, 24, 28), (28, 28, 30, 30), (32, 32, 34, 34) rows, ending with the RS row at the beginning of the rnd marker, not the end of the row. Place pocket sts on spare needles. On your next rnd, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3, 2, 2), (1, 1, 1, 1), align pocket sts with body sts. Knit through one pocket stitch and 1 body stitch together till all right body sts have been used up [17 (17, 20, 20, 22), (23, 23, 24, Front hem: with smaller sized needles (3.25 mm), knit to the side marker, cast on 6 sts. Turn work. Row 1 (WS): knit to the beginning of the round marker, cast on 6 sts. 24), (25, 26, 27, 28) sts], knit across pocket sts till last 17 (17, 20, 20, 22), (23, 23, 24, 24), (25, 26, 27, 28)sts, then once again attach body sts with left pockets stitches as previously, k3 (3, 3, 3, 2), (3, 3, 2, 2), (1, 1, 1, 1), slipm, knit to the end of the rnd. Knit for further two rnds. Go to Hemline Chapter.

HEMLINE:
There are three options to choose from. Each option will give you a hemline that is about 1.5-2 inches wide. Girly version (if you have worked side increases): evenly decrease across the rnd by 12 (12, 12, 12, 16), (16, 16, 20, 20), (20, 24, 24, 24) sts as k2tog. Simple Hemline: Change to smaller sized needles (3.25 mm). Rnd 1: purl Rnd 2: knit Repeat these two rnds 5-7 more times. Bind off on a purl row/purlwise. Buttoned Hemline:

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M a g i c a l | 18 Rows 2-5: knit Row 6 (RS) buttonhole row: k2, k2tog, yo, knit to the last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, k2. Rows 7-10: knit Optional Rows 11-12: knit Bind off on the WS knitwise. Back hem: for the back sts left on the needles, RS facing and smaller sized needles (3.25 mm), attach yarn and knit across. Knit every row for the same amount of rows as you did for the front. Bind off on the WS row knitwise. Bow-tie Hemline (girly): Tip: you might want to use two sets of needles to make knitting easier. Knit 6 (6, 6, 6, 6), (8, 8, 10, 12), (12, 14, 14, 16) sts past the beginning of the rnd marker. Cast on 40 (40, 40, 40, 40), (45, 45, 45, 45), (50, 50, 50, 50) sts. Turn your work. Row 1 (WS): using smaller sized needles (3.25 mm), knit all the way to the end of the row, then cast on 40 (40, 40, 40, 40), (45, 45, 45, 45), (50, 50, 50, 50) sts. Row 2 (RS): using second set of smaller sized needles now knit across to the end of the row. Row 3 (WS): knit Row 4 (RS): knit Repeat last two rows 4-6 more times. Bind off on a WS row knitwise.

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M a g i c a l | 19

SLEEVES:
Use larger sized needles (3.75 mm). Girly Version:

Size 10-12: p2tog, p1, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2, p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 12-14: p2tog, k2, p2, slipm, p2, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker.

Transfer 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts from hold, attach yarn and pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 4), (4, 4, 4, 4), (5, 5, 5, 6) sts, pm, pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 4), (4, 4, 4, 4), (5, 5, 5, 6) sts. Total stitch count should be 38 (40, 42, 44, 44), (46, 48, 48, 50), (54, 56, 58, 62) sts. Work sleeves in pattern to 1 stitch before picked up underarm sts, then Size 6m: p2tog, p1, k1, slipm, k1, p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 9m: p2tog, k2, slipm, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Sizes 12m and 6-7: p2tog, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Sizes 18m and 24m: skp, k1, p2, slipm, p2, k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 3T: skp, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Sizes 4T and 5T: p2tog, p1, k2, slipm, k2, p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 8-9: skp, k1, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 9-10: skp, p2, k2, slipm, k2, p2, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker.

Unisex/Boyish Version

Transfer 32 (34, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 42), (44, 46, 48, 50) sts from hold, attach yarn and pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 5), (5, 5, 5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, pm, pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 5), (5, 5, 5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 7) sts. Total stitch count should be 38 (40, 42, 44, 46), (48, 50, 50, 52), (56, 58, 60, 64) sts. Work sleeves in pattern to 1 stitch before picked up underarm sts, then Size 6m: p2tog, p1, k1, slipm, k1, p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 9m: p2tog, k2, slipm, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 12m: p2tog, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 18m: skp, k1, p2, slipm, p2, k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 24m: skp, k1, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 3T: skp, p2, k2, slipm, k2, p2, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker.

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M a g i c a l | 20 Sizes 4T and 5T: p2tog, p1, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2, p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 6-7: p2tog, k2, p2, slipm, p2, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 8-9: skp, k1, p2, k2, slipm, k2, p2, k1, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 9-10: skp, p2, k2, p1, slipm, p1, k2, p2, k2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 10-12: p2tog, p1, k2, p2, slipm, p2, k2, p1, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. Size 12-14: p2tog, k2, p2, k1, slipm, k1, p2, k2, p2tog, work in pattern to the marker. For example: k1, k1, p1, marker After the decrease you will have k1, p1, marker If your 3rd stitch to the left from the marker is p1, then decrease as p2tog. For example: p1, k1, k1, marker After the decrease you will have p1, k1, marker Decrease B is made as follows: If your 3rd stitch to the right from the marker is k1, then decrease as skp. For example: marker, p1, p1, k1 After the decrease you will have marker, p1, k1 All Versions: If your 3rd stitch to the right from the marker is p1, then decrease as p2tog. You have just decreased your sleeves by 2 sts. Work in pattern for 6 rnds. Next work a decrease round: (described in detail below, the aim is to preserve the appearance of the rib pattern as much as possible). Decrease Rnd: k1 or p1 (depending on your size), decrease A, work in pattern to 3 sts before marker, decrease B, k1 or p1 (depending on your size). Decrease A is made as follows: If your 3rd stitch to the left from the marker is k1, then decrease as k2tog. Short Sleeves (All Versions): Sizes 6m to 24m: work in pattern for 2 more rnds. Bind off in pattern. All other sizes: repeat last 7 rnds, and then work 2 rnds in pattern. Bind off in pattern. Follow instructions for your desired option and length. For example: marker, k1, k1, p1 After the decrease you will have marker, k1, p1

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M a g i c a l | 21 Long Sleeves (Unisex/Boyish Version): Work in pattern until work measures 3 (3, 3, 3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4), (4, 4, 5, 5) inches or 7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5), (7.5, 10, 10, 10), (10, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5) cm from the underarm. Work Decrease Rnd. Work in pattern, working decrease rnd every 6th (6th, 7th, 8th, 8th), (8th, 8th, 9th, 9th), (9th, 10th, 11th, 11th) rnd until you have the following number of sts: 30 (34, 34, 36, 38), (38, 38, 38, 40), (42, 44, 46, 46). Work in pattern till sleeve measures about 6.5 (7.5, 8.5, 9, 10), (10.5, 11.5, 12, 13), (14, 15, 16.5, 17.5) inches or 16.5 (19, 21.5, 23, 25.5), (26.5, 29.5, 30.5, 33), (35.5, 38, 42, 44.5) cm or till desired length. Please note that due to the unusual construction the sleeve lengths given above are about 1 inch/2.5 cm more than the average standard sleeve length. Bind off in pattern. or full length Sleeves (Girly Version): Sizes 6m to 24m: work in pattern for 1 rnd. All other sizes: work in pattern for 8 rnds. Stitch count should be: Full Length Sleeve: Knit till your sleeve measures about 5.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 9), (9.5, 10.5, 11, 12), (13, 14, 15.5, 16.5) inches or 14 (18, 19, 20.5, 23), (24, 26.5, 28, 30.5), (33, 35.5, 39.5, 42) cm as measured from the underarm. Please note that due to the unusual construction the sleeve lengths given above are about 1 inch/2.5 cm more than the average standard sleeve length. Go to Sleeve Cuff chapter, page 22. 34 (36, 38, 40, 40), (42, 44, 44, 46), (50, 52, 54, 58) sts. All sizes: Rnd 1: purl Rnd 2: knit Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 for 2 (2, 2, 2, 2), (3, 3, 3, 3), (4, 4, 4, 4) more times. Increase rnd: evenly increase across the rnd as either M1R or dliR by 6 (8, 10, 10, 12), (12, 14, 14, 14), (16, 16, 18, 20) sts. Total stitch count should be 40 (44, 48, 50, 52), (54, 58, 58, 60), (66, 68, 72, 78) sts. Sleeves: Knit for 1.5 (2, 2.5, 2.5, 3), (3.75, 4, 4, 5.5), (6, 7, 7.5, 8.5) inches or 4 (5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5), (9.5, 10, 10, 14), (15, 18, 19, 21.5) cm. Go to Sleeve Cuff chapter, page 22.

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M a g i c a l | 22 SLEEVE CUFF: Knit and evenly decrease as k2tog by 12 (12, 14, 16, 16), (16, 18, 18, 20), (20, 20, 24, 28) sts. Total stitch count should be 28 (32, 34, 36, 36), (38, 40, 40, 40), (46, 48, 48, 50) sts. Change to smaller sized needles (3.25 mm). Rnd 1: purl Rnd 2: knit and evenly decrease as k2tog by a further 3 (4, 3, 3, 3), (5, 5, 5, 4), (7, 7, 7, 7) sts. Total stitch count should be 25 (28, 31, 33, 33), (33, 35, 35, 36), (39, 41, 41, 43) sts. Rnd 3: purl Rnd 4: knit. Repeat Rnds 3 and 4 for 4-6 more times. Bind off purlwise.

FINISHING TOUCHES: Weave in any loose ends. Sew the pockets on the inside of the sweater if two pockets option was chosen. Sew pocket trim edge vertically to the sweater. Block the sweater. Sew button(s) on. Wear and enjoy!

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M a g i c a l | 23 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
Heartfelt thanks and my deepest gratitude go to my wonderful group of testers (Angela,

Aneta, Cathy, Deidre, Emily, Erika, Esin, Eva, Janet, Justyna, Ilse, Klara, Kristin, Lynley, Maria, Meg, Natasha, Paula, Vaida, and Zaviera), whose hard work and most valuable input made this pattern possible. Special thanks go to Janet for helping me with the presentation and editing of this pattern. COPYRIGHT: Please respect my designer rights, and as such the copyright of this pattern will always remain with me. I am providing this pattern for personal home use only. You may make garments from it as gifts or donate to charities and fundraisers. Commercial use of this pattern is a violation of the copyright. Selling products made from this pattern or distributing this pattern in any manner is prohibited under the copyright unless I, Elena Nodel, have granted express written permission. CONTACT INFORMATION: Email: ElenaNodel@gmail.com Website: www.AnadiomenaDesigns.com Pattern Designs: www.ravelry.com/designers/Elena-Nodel Colour Adventures Yarns on Etsy: www.Anadiomena.Etsy.com Blog: www.AnadiomenaDesigns.blogspot.com Ravelry Username: Anadiomena Ravelry Group: Anadiomena's Adventures Facebook: www.Facebook.com/AnadiomenasDesigns Twitter: www.Twitter.com/AnadiomenasDesi REFERENCES:
Directional Lifted Increases: www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnrV0Uf2cLk&NR=1 How to decrease stitches evenly across a row: www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/EvenlySpace.html How increase stitches evenly across a row: www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/IncreaseEvenlySpace.html

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M a g i c a l C h e c k M a r k T a b l e s | 24

Check Mark Table for Cable A and corresponding sizes:

Written Cable A Instructions Rnd 1 Rnd 2 Rnd 3 Rnd 4 Rnd 5 Rnd 6 Rnd 7 Rnd 8 Rnd 9 Rnd 10 Rnd 11 Rnd 12 Rnd 13 Rnd 14 Rnd 15 Rnd 16 Rnd 17 Rnd 18 Rnd 19 Rnd 20 Rnd 21

Sleeve Increases

Front and Back Increases

p3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p3 p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2 p1, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p1 p1, k2, p6, k2, p1 p1, k2, p6, k2, p1 p1, k2, p6, k2, p1 p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1 k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1 k1, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1 k1, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k1 k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1 k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1 k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1 k1, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1 k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1 k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2 k2, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k2 k2, p1, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p1, k2 k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2 k2, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k2 k2, p1, close cable loop, p1, k2

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M a g i c a l C h e c k M a r k T a b l e s | 25

Check Mark Table for Cable B and corresponding sizes:

Written Cable B Instructions Rnd 1 Rnd 2 Rnd 3 Rnd 4 Rnd 5 Rnd 6 Rnd 7 Rnd 8 Rnd 9 Rnd 10 Rnd 11 Rnd 12 Rnd 13 Rnd 14 Rnd 15 Rnd 16 Rnd 17 Rnd 18 Rnd 19 Rnd 20 Rnd 21 Rnd 22 Rnd 23 Rnd 24 Rnd 24 Rnd 26 Rnd 27 Rnd 28 Rnd 29 Rnd 30 Rnd 31 Rnd 32 Rnd 33 Rnd 34 p4, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p4 p3, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3 p2, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2 p1, 2/1 RPC, p6, 2/1 LPC, p1 p1, k2, p8, k2, p1 p1, k2, p8, k2, p1 p1, k2, p8, k2, p1 p1, k2, p8, k2, p1 p1, 2/1 LPC, p6, 2/1 RPC, p1 k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1 k1, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1 k1, p3, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p3, k1 k1, p4, 2/2 LC, p4, k1 k1, p3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p3, k1 k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1 k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1 k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1 k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1 k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1 k1, p1, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1 k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2 k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k2 k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k2 k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k2 k2, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1, k2 k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2 k2, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k2 k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2 k3, p1, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p1, k3 k3, p2, 2/2 LC, p2, k3 k3, p1, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p1, k3 k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3 k3, p1, k2, p2tog, k2, p1, k3 k3, p1, close cable loop, p1, k3 Sleeve Increases Front and Back Increases

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