Zagreb

Instant

Winter 2005/2006 Downloaded free from www.inyourpocket.com

Essential mini guides

Introducing Zagreb
Zagreb is a wonder ful city that beckons the traveler from all over the world. Its neat, tidy streets, colour ful parks and Hapsburg sense of grandeur make it one of the most popular Central European destinations of the moment. Home of some fabulous shops,some of the continents best coffee, Zagreb is the per fect distination for the jaded traveler.

Restaurants Bars Clubs Sights Hotels Transpor t and a whole host of other useful information

Instant Zagreb 2006

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Instant Zagreb
This small .pdf guide has been written to aid the traveller to Zagreb who doesnt need or want to carr y an encyclopediasized guidebook around in their pocket. A bold experiment in travel writing, the best (and the worst) bits of Riga have been boiled down and generally condensed into one fun-sized read for the lightweight traveller.

Local time
Zagreb is in the Central European time zone at GMT+1hrs. Daylight saving time falls between the last Sunday of March and the last Sunday of October.

Visas
Citizens from Australasia, EU, Nor th America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa. Ever ybody else needs a visa which must be obtained before entering the republic - you cant do this at any Croatian land border. For the complete list visit www.inyourpocket.com or contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at C-2/3, Trg N.. Zrinjskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required by law to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If youre staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to complete some paper work at the police station (tel. 92) - be sure to bring your passpor t! And no, the police wont hunt you down should you fail to register with them, it merely saves you a lot of headache if you should find yourself in trouble while youre in Croatia.

Electricity
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Religion
These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three churches; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become overwhelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. 01 459 13 33, www.mfin.hr.

Instant Zagreb
In Your Pocket Instant guides are par t of a series of European destination guides published by the In Your Pocket publishing group. For more information about our products, take a look at the web site, www.inyourpocket.com. Zagreb In Your Pocket is published by: Zagreb In Your Pocket Drakovieva 66 Zagreb Croatia Tel./fax (+385) 1 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket 19952006. All rights reser ved. No par t of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.

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2 Instant Zagreb

Arriving
Arriving in Zagreb is actually rather easy. The airpor t is a little eay out of town, but the otherarrival pints are slap bang in the centre of the city.

Tourist information
C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelaia 11, tel. 481 40 51, 481 40 52, fax 481 40 56, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14: 00. Also at C-2, Trg Nikole ubia Zrinjskog 14, tel. 492 16 45, fax 492 16 47. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. C-3, Preradovieva 42, tel. 48 73 665, fax 48 73 670, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus
Contrar y to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor, E-4) is a pleasant, even welcoming place. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured, while the top floor is home to a post office (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 10: 00 - 17:00, closed Sun.) and chapel. There are two 24-hour cafs in the station: Buffet Stop is located in the waiting area and Inch is to the right of the ticketing hall. For more than a greasy burek downed with a pint tr y Caf Bar Bus (open 05:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 23: 00) located right next to Inch. Pivnica Zagreb (tel. 611 13 25. Open 24 hours ) is also an option. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Dria. There is also currency exchange (Open 06:00 - 22:00) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 1.20Kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3Kn. Getting to town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. Or saunter across the street and pick up tram N6 towards rnomerec to get to the main square, Trg Bana Josipa Jelaia. Taxis are plentiful.

numerous kiosks that sell phone cards. Tr y the Tisak kiosk (open 05:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 23:00). Public phones are located in the halls to the left and right of the main hall. The information office (tel. 060 33 34 44, open 06:00 - 10:00, 10:30 - 18: 00, 18:30 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). The left luggage facilities, Garderoba, are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 10kn/day. Getting to town: Directly in front of you is Trg kralja Tomislava. Its only a five-minute walk past three tree-lined parks in a row to the main square, Trg Jelaia. Tram N6 (rnomerec) or 13 (itnjak) also take you there.

By plane

Zagr ebs Airpor t (Zrana luka Zagreb) is 17km out of town and is quite miniature. Changing cur r ency: The Zagrebaka banka By train of fice has a currency The train station, Glavni kolodvor, sees more traffic exchange (open 07:00 than other points of entr y into the city. Changing - 21:00) and an ATM currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the outside inter national main hall to find an ATM in the left corner. A currency arrivals. Theres also exchange and ATM (open 24hrs) are in the international an exchange in the ticketing area. Calling home: In the main hall there are post of fice (open 07: 00 - 21:00) in the centre of the airpor t and a Privredna banka Zagreb kiosk (open 07:30 - 19:30, closed Sun.) in the domestic arrivals hall. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at the newsstand, Prodavaonica novina, (open 05:00 - 23:00) located in domestic depar tures - there are phones all over. In the domestic depar tures hall there is an information centre which is open 24 hours. The toilets are in the centre of the airpor t across from the post office and come with a baby changing station; those on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus ser vice from Zagreb Airpor t to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor). It costs 25kn and takes about 30min. You can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals for 150-250kn. Instant Zagreb 3 www.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
When you scratch below the sur face, Zagreb has a huge number restaurants. And weve run out of space to print them all. So weve taken a new approach to the What to Eat section. Each issue, well present a selection for you, showing whats new, whats hot and highlighting a few suggestions where you can eat well at ever y price range. For our full restaurant listing, check out www.inyourpocket.com , then click on Croatia, Zagreb and Restaurants. But rest assured, wherever you go youll probably have a great time. Croatians are great cooks, and you have to be pretty unlucky to stumble across a bad meal.

Traditional
Altamira D-2, Palmotieva 19, tel. 481 02 21. Tr y
specialities from Istria such as fui (a kind of pasta), asparagus and truffles in a homely atmosphere. They also do wonder ful lamb cooked in Cres island style, duck breast in wild mushroom and blueberr y sauce, Coquilles St Jacques au gratin, and loads of carpaccio, soups and desser ts. Good value. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (50 - 90Kn) AE

Dva goluba J-2, Maksimirska 7, tel. 232 89 50. A

International
Hrvatski kulturni klub B-3, Trg marala Tita 10,
tel. 482 80 84, fax 482 69 16, hkk@asker.hr, www.asker.com/hkk/. Reliable culinar y offerings in the Museum of Ar ts and Crafts. You might spot the prima donna from the National Theatre opposite among the clientele. The clubs terrace is surrounded by Bolle architecture, and theres space for readings, meetings and per formances. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 110Kn) ABGP

long-time top Zagreb dining experience, the Two Pigeons has been up and running since 1935. A winter garden and an abundance of traditional paintings will enter tain you if you manage to look up from your plate. Dont be afraid to tr y the restaurants renowned speciality, the two pigeon mushroom soup. Those not as courageous will not be at a loss choosing from the mixed domestic and international menu. Pancakes are a must for desser t. Open 08:00 - 24: 00. AB

Incontro B-2, Frankopanska 22, tel. 481 93 86, fax

481 93 87, ristorante.incontro@zg.t-com.hr. Celebrity chef Stefano Cosattini now occupies this space, formerly home of Marcellino. Its a hard act to follow, but Incontro impresses with imaginative Italian and French flavours, by excellent wines, a super stylish setting and affordable prices. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. AJP

Pod mirnim krovovima J-2, Andrije Fijana 7, tel.

Mano I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. 466 94 32,

www.mano.hr. Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reser ve in advance. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. ABGP

232 31 55/ 231 62 69. Under peaceful roofs you will find what many people consider the most fantastic grilled or boiled lamb in the region, not to mention the lengthy wine list which will keep you occupied for hours. A favourite among Zagreb natives looking for a midmorning snack. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (45 - 120Kn) AB

Zagorcu B-2, Frankopanska 13, tel. 483 05 38. You

The Club B-2, Frankopanska 12, tel. 487 04 02,

theclubfrankopanska@consule.hr. Par t restaurant, par t cafe / cocktail lounge, The Club is per fectly poised within a designer fashion complex. Offering seasonal French and Italian classics, and, once a month, Asian, Indian and other exotic cuisines, The Club is a relaxing retreat you can hire for smaller gatherings. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. ABP

will cer tainly compose four to nine poems about the joys of schnitzel upon completing a meal here. Peasant ar t adorns the walls and a queer breed of old folk music tosses about the air. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (45 - 95Kn) ABG

Vegetarian
Makronova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. 481 00 59/ 484 71
19, www.biovega.hr. Just refurbished, Makronova now offers an exquisitely relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized por tions - definitely not rabbit-food! Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 55Kn) AGP

Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovieva 1 ( Hotel The Regent

Esplanade), tel. 456 66 66, www.regenthotels.com. Belgian chef Marc Fontenelle, formerly of the Marriott Aurora Moscow, heads up Zagrebs first fusion restaurant. Zinfandels, named after Californias most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional hear t. (70-210) Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. ABP

Sirion E-2, Dereninova 1, tel. 462 14 82/ 455 30

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88, www.sirion.hr. Homestyle Croatian recipes cooked using mainly macrobiotic, vegan ingredients. The calm ambience instantly upgrades your karma a few notches. Your delicious and nutritionally irreproachable large or small lunch menu costs 65 or 55kn respectively. If youre a member, you get a discount. Take-away ser vice and deliver y across town. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

4 Instant Zagreb

Fast Food
Pite Mravac D-3, Kneza Mislava 3, tel. 091 760 87
37. Pita is a traditional Balkan food made from filo pastr y. At Mravac, you can buy warm pita made to a traditional Bosnian recipe with a choice of sweet or savour y fillings. Spinach and cheese is delish! Cheap and ver y cheer ful. Take-away only. 4-5kn Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

Zagreb City Museum, its a great mix of game and seafood dishes ser ved up in a den of brick and darkness that seems to say sunlight is overrated. After your pupils adjust youll be quite happy to be here, that is until the bill arrives and you realise you have to run to the nearest ATM (tragically its quite a ways off). Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (85 - 150Kn) ABG

Stari puntijar D-1, Graanska cesta 65, tel./fax

Croatian
Baltazar I-2, Nova ves 4, tel. 466 68 24/ 466 68
08, fax 466 68 25, restoran.baltazar@zg.t-com.hr, www.restoran-baltazar.com. This is a great stop for those of you who want to see what high-end yet traditional Zagreb dining is about. The setting, ser vice and your meal all come together brilliantly and make you ver y happy to be here. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (55 - 125Kn) ABG

467 55 00. One of the top wine lists in town and the expertly seasoned wild game give you a reason to head for the mountains only a few minutes drive from the city. (55 - 100Kn) Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. AB

Vinodol C-2, Nikola Tesle 10, tel. 481 13 41/

Cantinetta C-2, Nikole Tesle 14, tel. 481 13

15. A cant miss for its exper tly prepared dishes and professional, warm interior, Cantinetta has a power ful international feel of professionalism. No unkind words are ever heard to be said about this place, though it is a little spendy. Handy location. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (55 - 120Kn) AP

481 14 27, fax 481 13 43, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www.vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and its especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to tr y some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining oppor tunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 95Kn) AB

Gablec
Outside some restaurants you might spot a sign saying Gableci. What are these? we wondered, imagining some small pigeon-like bird. Wrong! Gablec is a local word meaning something like elevenses. The custom dates back to when people star ted work too early for a proper breakfast, so around ten-ish, they would pop out for something to keep them going til lunchtime. Nowadays, people eat gablec as a light lunch, choosing from a handful of cheap, home-made dishes, such as goulash, sarma (stuffed cabbage) or grah (bean stew). Heres where you can scoff on the hoof. Bistro Deno G-4, Maceljska 21, tel. 301 60 23,
www.bistro-deno.hr. Just off Ljubljanska Avenue, this pleasant family-run restaurant does great lunchtime snacks (gableci) at super prices a filling cooked meal is yours for 15-30kn. Meats from the real charcoal grill are par ticularly yummy. Check out the website for daily and weekly specials. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 25. Cheap and traditional lunch specials in this simple buffet. We especially love their grah. Open 07:00 - 23: 00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. 15-40kn

Grgosova spilja Otruevec 17/4, Bregana, tel. 337

58 88. How about a walk in the hills around Samobor, a visit to the Grgos caves (on the road to Otruevac), and a superbly priced meal in this famous restaurant? Classic meat dishes come in por tions that have table legs and diners groaning. Youll leave with a doggy bag, and your mother will be proud of your new healthy look. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. A

Buffet Antin Gaj E-3, Branimirova 67, tel. 455 05

Kerempuh C-2, Kaptol 3, tel. 481 90 00,

Gablec J-2/3, Kvaternikov trg b.b., tel. 233 87 44.

Pizza, lasagne, fresh pita, grilled meats and pancakes. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

kerempuh@kerempuh.hr, www.kerempuh.hr. A favourite food hangout of Zagrebs young professionals and those in the know, this place ser ves traditional Croatian fare and will even send you a daily email of its menu if you ask. A fantastic view of Dolac in all its pre-3pm hustling and bustling glor y.(50kn) Open 09:00 - 16:00. A

Kvatri J-2, Maksimirska 9, tel. 234 40 74. Cosily Zalogajnica Kod Duje J-3, Martieva 62, tel.

balanced between rustic and elegant, offering daily lunch specials from 30kn. Open 10:00 - 24:00. A 461 06 43. If youre east of the main square and fancy a decent, quick and inexpensive meal the local way, head to the park by the Kvaterinov trg marketplace. This simple and decent little spot offers a range of homestyle dishes such as sarma (soured cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice, cooked in delicious sauce), stuffed peppers, and a selection of meaty and bean stews. Call for deliver y. Open 06:00 - 23:00.

Paviljon C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. 481 30

66, fax 484 10 73. When youre attempting to put out a vibe of classy and well cultured, this becomes an essential component. A great mix of continental and seafood offerings, its location on Trg kralja Tomislava seems to sing out looks like we made it. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (65 - 125Kn) AB

Stara vura C-1, Opatika 20, tel. 485 13 68, Instant Zagreb 5

staravura@gmail.com, www.stara-vura.hr. Below the

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Seafood
Antica C-1, Kaptol 27, tel. 481 21 87. These people
are so determined that only the freshest of fishies hits your plate that they say they would rather not ser ve you fish at all if its not up to scratch. Fish delivered so fast that you can smell the sea breeze as the waiters zoom past. Friendly ser vice, and a great choice for a romantic evening or a catch-up with friends. You can reser ve your table on mobile phone number 098 912 52 64 or 091 728 94 38. Open 12: 00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A

a meal here. Tablecloths of checked red and white, a great wine list and location makes it a pleasing experience. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (25 - 75Kn) AGP

Kapuciner C-1, Kaptol 6, tel. 481 48 40/ 481 04

87, www.capuciner.hr. The inside/outside seating oppor tunity is quite nice and the light meal options the same. Directly across from the cathedral, youll wonder if its possible to rent one of the spires for your home or office (no, you cant). Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24: 00. (30 - 85Kn) ABGP

La Storia C-2, Kaptol 4, tel. 481 32 79. A delightful

new spaghetteria with terrace seating overlooking the cathedral, and a light and bright restaurant area downstairs. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ABP

Mezzo & Mezzo D-4, Branimirova 29 (Centre

Branimir), tel. 464 82 11. Rather a modern conception, this stylish place offers large and small pizzas, as well as pizza cuts for 10kn. Daily specials, pasta dishes, great coffees and desser ts including our editors Holy Grail - Tiramisu. Definitely a spot well be spending our lunch breaks. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.

Piccolo Mondo C-2, L. Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), tel.

Barka I-2, Nova ves 84, tel. 466 78 08. At the end of

Nova ves, it has that unmistakeable air of myster y that will intrigue you like a dog in full-sniff mode. This is a great spot for the new lovers out there, for its dark and somehow makes those pheromones of yours more potent. Open 17: 00 - 24:00. (80 - 130Kn) ABP

iho D-3, Pavla Hatza 15, tel. 481 70 60, fax 461

71 24. They will push their special wine on you, and you are well advised to drink it. This is a fairly simple establishment as this type goes, and yet your meal is beyond reproach. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (65 - 90Kn) AGP

481 86 13. Lodged in the front of the Hotel Dubrovnik, this high-quality house of Italian cuisine offers one of the best views of Trg Jelaia it is possible to grab whilst stuffing your face. Innumerable pasta dishes are rivalled by a small selection of meat and fish and an even smaller wine list. Then again, quality is often the victor when quantity is put to the sword and here you are paying for quality despite that relaxed and informal setting. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (30 - 85Kn) AB

Pizza
Mangiare C-2, Tkalieva 29, tel. 482 81 73. A
gem. Authentic thin stone baked pizza crusts, a fantastic selection of the highest quality toppings, per fect flavours, incredibly huge fresh salads and tiny prices this little pizzeria is sure to win many devoted hear ts. B

Ribarski brevijar C-1, Kaptol 27/I, tel. 482 99 99.

A comfor table, modern cellar owned by a family of fish merchants, guaranteeing a great selection of Adriatic fish prepared in traditional Dalmatian style, alongside interesting asides such as cod mousse and cream of scampi soup with saffron. Friendly staff and reasonable prices. (55-120kn) Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. A

Pizzeria 2 I-2, Nova Ves 2, tel. 466 61 11. The

Italian
Boban C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. 481 15 49,
www.boban.hr. Locals flock to it in hordes as do international dudes. The reason? Its location in the centre of the centre and an ambiance of unadulterated fun. Your meal is nothing to write home about, yet somehow satisfying. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 85Kn) AGP

mixte pie at this place may inspire you to do something with your existence that, to this point, has been completely self-absorbed and not too terribly fruitful (lets face it). Open 09:00 - 01:00. (25 - 40Kn) A

Sakristan C-1, Opatovina 35, tel. 481 34 81. Just

renovated and looking excellent, apar t from pizza pie, pasta and risottos, theres a selection of mouthwatering chicken and turkey dishes, plus grilled salmon. (22-50kn). Open 09:00 - 23:00. B

Cavallino J-3, Zavrtnica 17, tel. 605 52 98, fax 605

Strossmayer J-4, Bednjanska 14, tel. 617 06 07.

56 40. A lively, modern new restaurant in the new business centre just south of Zvonimirova. The menu offers Croatian and Mediterranean specialities, but is cer tainly not run-ofthe-mill it changes ever y day, so, for example, on Fridays you can feast especially well on fish dishes. A large wine list, efficient ser vice and congenial atmosphere complete the picture: its a great (and inexpensive) choice for any occasion they can cater for up to 120 people. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

A new location just behind Avenija Grada Vukovara, near Lisinski and the main railway station. A good-looking place, nice and light and modern, per fect for a working lunch. Also a pasta, big salads and a grill menu. Deliver y.(2333kn). Open 09:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun.

estine D-2, Vlaka 42, tel. 481 42 94. An elegant

Fellini D-2, Savska 90, tel. 617 75 45. A pale yellow

friend, you neednt bring your largest pail of cash to enjoy

take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - its owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. (28-75kn). Open 09:00 - 24:00. A

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4 Instant Zagreb

Bars
Cocktail bars
Hemingway lounge bar B-3, Trg Marala Tita 1,
tel. 098 980 50 00, hemingway@hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Hemingway at its original residence on Tukanac is now reser ved for private par ties, but the hoi polloi is invited to its new abode in the lovely old building next to Kavkaz, opposite the Croatian National Theatre. Great views without, and air y period interiors and posh drinkie-poos within. Open 07:00 - 03:00.

Godot A-4, Savska 23, tel. 484 34 77. When you

star t begging the waiter for some bangers and mash (like mommy used to make) youll know this pub attempt has succeeded. Its near to the student centre, thus the crowd tends to be on the young and hip side. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B

Hole In One C-2, Vlaka 42, tel. 483 52 80,

pub@holeinonepub.hr. Such is the per fection of its polished dark wood and brass that it could scarcely be imagined to be truly English, but the food is cer tainly up to scratch for those wanting a taste of back home. The prices are also scarily reminiscent, as is the proficient yet bland live music Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.

Indys C-2, Vranicanijeva 4. Trendy and very fun,

K Pivovari H-3, Ilica 222, tel.

its in Gornji grad and will make you happy your lungs and heart are so thoughtless and consistent in their motion. The drink menu is perhaps the broadest in the entire city - bring your wallet and ATM card. Open 09: 00 - 23:00. B

Jackie Brown C-1, Nova ves 17 (Centar Kaptol).

Dedicated to all shades black, all forms minimalistic, and music all moody and smouldering. A serious choice of fine whiskies and cognacs. Firmly aimed at an older and more sophisticated clientele. We mean this in the lifestyle, not evolutionar y, sense. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24: 00.

375 18 08, www.kpivovari.com. A huge beer hall in the Central European tradition, recently refurbished, but maintaining the atmosphere that has attracted locals since 1893. Its lucky the wooden tables are chunky enough to withstand the groaning weight of tons and tons of beer tankards, since, being on the site of the Zagreb Brewer y, the freshness of the draught Ozujsko and Stella Ar tois is guaranteed, and so, therefore, is your enjoyment. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10: 00 - 17:00. AB

Movie Pub I-4, Savska 141, tel. 605 50 45,

Khala C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol),

event.media@inet.hr. Par t lively cocktail bar, with an eastern vibe and fluffy house music, par t wine bar for lounging and sipping. The wine list includes some great Croatian wines, and most are ser ved by the glass, so you par take in a spot of exploring. Nibbles are ser ved in this par t too. Open 08:00-01:00, Wed-Sat 08:00-04:00.

info@the-movie-pub.com, www.the-movie-pub.com. A huge hit amongst students and young professionals, weekday nights see the roof lifting as the throng belt out croatian rock anthems on karaoke nights (Wed and Thur). You may have a hard time elbowing your way to the 30-odd beers at the bar, or getting the waiter to bring you your bucket of pub-grub. Parading as a real British pub, by managing to miss the point, ironically they get the recipe spot on. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.

Oliver Twist C-1, Tkalieva 60, tel. 481 22 06,

sasa.gvozdic@zg.t-com.hr. The centre of all things cool on the beloved Tkalieva street, if youre not wearing your hottest gear dont even think about it. Locals and expats think this place is delightfully wicked and fun - the jukebox helps to emphasize these attributes. Great outdoors seating. Open 09:00 - 04:00. B

Pubs
Bavaria C-2, Margaretska 5, tel. 492 20 00. One of
the new bars sprouting like, er, flowers, on Flower Square, these are people to be taken literally only Bavaria beer is sold on tap, which is a good reason to go. Half decent music can be heard here. Open 07:00 - 01:00.

Big Mama I-6, Horvatova 35B, tel. 661 06 20. Big

Gay & lesbian

Oops, we did it again...admitting they exist and actually wander among us! The gall! The ner ve! Man are we jerks. People, cut the crap and join us in the 21st Centur y. See www.touristinfo.gay.hr/zagreb.php or crolesbians.com for the best information. David B-3, Maruliev trg 13, tel. 091 533 65 07/
091 533 77 57. Down near the Botanic Gardens, this spacious clearing in the undergrowth has somewhat of a split personality. On the one hand you boys get a decent bar to hang out at. On the other, take the healthy option and join the other half relaxing in the Finnish sauna. Either way a location per fect for a rendezvous or chance encounter. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.

Mama is amply propor tioned and wildly popular. The huge pub on the other side of the Sava (take the Velika Gorica or Dugave bus) also has a huge pub-style menu, interesting cheeses, pancakes galore and breakfasts including a feast of fruits and yogur t. A good local and international wine list is topped by Dom Perignon at 1500kn a pop. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. A

Dublin Pub K-2, Maksimirska 75, tel. 236 04 93,

www.dublinpub.hr. The Irish Pub. Worldwide homage to the Irish alcohol problem. Photos of Olde Dublin. Potatoes used as ornaments on shelves. The Dublin Pub makes a good stab at the genre: deep brown leather sofas comfor t your wear y bones, and ser vice is prompt and cour teous. The menu is a little more Croatian than one might expect not a bad thing at all. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. A

Fantasy Club in Tolkiens Pub C-1, Katarinin trg 3,

tel. 485 17 76. Merlin conjured up a cool pub in between his various visions and its called Tolkiens. The colour ful ar t and glass set the tone and finally you can say kikiriki with good reason: the place is famous for its peanut-butter toast. You follow Open 08:00 - 24:00. B

Glob@l Club D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. 481 48 78,

globalclub@globalnet.hr. If youre into tolerance, this is your place for it operates in just such a spirit (its their motto). As such, the vibe is exceptionally friendly and not so annoyingly meat marketed. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.

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Clubs
From standard bars to more mature music clubs and raging discos, Zagreb has no problem providing nightlife. The town is small enough to cover on foot, though as the night gets longer, so does the distance between locations. Masters E-2, 11 Ravnice, Maksimirsko naselje 138.
Not the same old, definitely not same old - which is probably why this east-end clubs inspired young owners are war y of any media hype directed their way; the word genre is taboo here. Too much wood for splinter-free break-dancing, but youll probably be tempted to do it anyway. An eponymous bar downstairs gives you reason to hang around weekdays and during off hours. Open 08:00 - 22:00. L

Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. 612 99 99, www.kset.org. On

the cutting edge of all things cool, KSET is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardr y.The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming ver y passionate about their worship of this place. Open 20:00 - 24:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00.

We be Clubbin'
The following is a list nights, clubs and reason you ought to be here. We just bumpin and bangin like there aint nuttin wrong. Go ahead...get your club on. Aquariuskontrapunkt,dancefloor jazz,hip hop,r&b Best - disco, house, techno, pop Gjuro II - r&b, after work par ty Kset - jazzy, alternative scene, electro Jabuka - the dark side of the 80 Movara - punk, ska, moovare Movie pub -karaoke Wed/Thu/Fri Purgeraj - rock, blues Route 66 - rock, blues, countr y Sax - jazz, rock,blues B- pop for house wiwes Tokica - house, underground, Tvornica - swing, slow rockin, novi val, disco, ska, ethnic, jazz&funky, drum&bass

No. 1 I-2, Nova Ves 2, tel. 466 61 89. Small and very

colourful, it boasts a crowd of regulars that are of average size and very colourful. Music pumps and grins widen as the evening wears on, though keep in mind its on the exclusive side: only card-carrying VIPs are allowed entry after 23:00. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Cult classics
Gjuro II J-2, Medveak 2, tel. 468 33 67. A cool little
den. Tuesday is par ty night for the ar tsy scene, sometimes featuring cultural per formances. Thursdays long-running After Work Par ty has a superb 80s DJ and features clubbers who have left kindergar ten, unlike Fridays and Saturdays - both classic house par ties. Open 21:00 - 02: 00.

Hard Rock Caf C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 10, tel. 487 25

48. You will hear a petrifying sound threatening to rip the walls from their place on the building and then you know youve found this place. Its hip and trendy, a place young locals come to display their wealth. Open 09:00 - 01:00.

Jazz clubs
B.P. Club C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. 481 44 44,
bpclub@bpclub.hr, www.bpclub.hr. A master ful pre-par ty spot, you cannot help but be thrilled by the chilled out mood of jazz and mirrors that capture ever y angle. Known for the famous musicians that wander in and out, sometimes playing to the delight of onlookers. Open 10:00 - 02:00.

Sax D-3, Palmotieva 22, tel. 487 28 36, klub@sax-

zg.hr, www.sax.croatian-music.info/. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here ever y night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a cant miss. Open 09:00 - 04:00.

Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. 483 43 97. If you pluck up

the courage to edge your way past the meaty bouncers, youll find the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up from Wednesday to Sunday in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Open 20:00 - 02: 00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed.

Casino
Casino City B/C-4, Mihanovieva 1, (The Regent
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. 450 10 00. Centrally located in the beautifully refurbished Hotel The Regent Esplanade, a comfor table club casino with five roulette tables, five card tables, slot machines and a VIP area for those more discreet gambling moments. Open 20: 00 - 04:00.

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Essential sights
Time is of the essence, so weve created a cheat-sheet of sor ts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that youre cultured. Crkva Sv. Marka (Churche of Saint Marko ) C-1,
Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th centur y building.

entrance to Maksimir park is on the nor th side of the street. Home to the city zoo!

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the

Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mar y could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entr y. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasnt been touched since. Today youll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate) C-1,

capitol city dont mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to the cemeter y confirms this immediately. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj, the central Zagreb cemeter y, situated on the slopes of Medvednica, is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. However, Mirogoj is not only the burial place but also a beautiful park and an open ar t galler y. Not far from the present mor tuar y, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality had bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemeter y upon it. The wellknown architect Herman Bolle designed the shape of the cemeter y, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a galler y of sculptures by Croatian sculptors.

Tkalieva (Tkalieva street) C-1, Tkalieva.

You mustnt miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. Youll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that youre star ting to understand is ver y unique too!

Trg bana Josipa Jelaia (Square of J.Jelaia)

Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja (Cathedral of Marijina Uznesenja) C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. 481 47 27.
A wonder of neo-Gothic ar tistr y, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though its in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, its undeniably over whelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see youve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but dont forget to turn the mobile off. A brief histor y: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years its heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tar tars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. Its reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an ear thquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. It continues to this day. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10: 00, 11:30.

C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelaia. This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. Theres a phenomenal variety of cafs, shopping, feeding and people watching ever ywhere. It was named for the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelaie, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our counts image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the countr y. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it per fectly nationalistic.

Trg Nikole ubia Zrinjskog ( Square of N.. Zrinjskog ) C-2/3, Trg Nikole ubia Zrinjskog. The

combination of the outdoors gazebo, exper tly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg Jelaia and youll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

Maksimirski park i Zoloki vrt (Maksimir Park & the City Zoo) K-1/2, Maksimirirski perivoj bb.

A per fect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dir t are all a par t of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the ver y sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such its a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greener y and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this par t of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelaciea east (Dubec) to the Bukovacka stop. The

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8 Instant Zagreb

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Hotels
Upmarket
Aristos outskirts, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. 669 59 00,
fax 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www.hotelaristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airpor t and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a touristfree environment 80 rooms (23 singles 130 - 150, 47 doubles 140 - 165, 3 suites 390, 7 Junior suite 195, 4 Family 2+1 140, 3 Suite 320). ABGHKLPRU hhhh

cinema, offices, a fitness studio and cinference rooms. Multifunctional furniture, contemporar y sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with cer tain expectations. 151 rooms (singles 120 - 160, 143 doubles 120 - 160, 4 suites 320, 4 Junior suite 190, Weekend price single/double 104). ABDFGHKLOPRSTU hhhh

Best Western Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska

As H-2, Zelengaj 2a, tel. 460 91 11, fax 460 93

03, as@hotel-as.hr, www.hotel-as.hr. The Ace caters to a an upper-class clientele and thus styling is rich and classy. The staff works for ever y one of their four-stars. Just nor th of town, your surroundings are lush and less noisy as a result. 22 rooms (19 singles 990Kn, 19 doubles 1190Kn, 2 Junior suite 1490Kn, 1 Presidential 1990Kn). ABEGHIKLPRS hhhh

ulica 71, tel. 480 89 00, fax 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.bestwestern.com. The new-look Best Western Astoria (reopened March 2005) has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagrebs most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have datapor ts, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel youll be asking yourself where the other stars are 102 rooms (38 singles 113, 28 King 129 - 147, 18 Twin 129 - 147, 12 Executive 180 - 200, 4 Superior Executive 232 - 257, 2 Suite 273 - 298). AGHIKLPRTU hhh

Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita

Gaja 1, tel. 487 35 55/ 486 35 00, fax 481 84 47, hotel-dubrovnik@hoteldubrovnik.htnet.hr; www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles to you from the eastern end of Bogovieva ulica. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Trg Jelaia and the buzzing caf scene. 266 rooms (166 singles 105 - 120, 92 doubles 140 - 160, 8 junior suites 214). AGHJKPRU hhhh

2, tel. 455 35 35, fax 455 30 35, sheratonres .zagreb@sheraton.com , www.sheraton.com/ zagreb. Its ever ything youve come to expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout ser vice, excellent dining and relaxation options, and ser vice that goes the extra mile. Ever ything you need is in house. A ver y popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when theyre in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. 306 rooms (275 doubles 130 - 190, 28 suites 200 - 285, 2 Junior suite 180 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite 1500). ABCDFGHJKLPRTU hhhhh

Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne

The Westin Zagreb A-3, Krnjavoga 1, tel. 489 20

00, fax 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westin.com/zagreb. The recently refurbished bedrooms are light and contemporar y, featuring the Westins seriously enticing Heavenly Bed, all decked out in white linen. Soothe away the stress with a Heavenly massage shower. The hotel will even supply Fido with a Heavenly Dog Bed. The most spectacular views in town and ever y comfor t and ser vice imaginable. Contact the hotel to ask about special offers. 378 rooms (335 doubles 130 - 190, 23 suites 200 - 285, 19 Junior suite 180 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite 1500). ABCDFGHJKLPRTU hhhhh

Four Points Panorama Hotel by Sheraton H-3, Trg

sportova 9, tel. 365 83 33, fax 309 26 57, fourpoin tsres.zagreb@fourpoints.com, www.fourpoints.com/ zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with spor ts teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is ver y well thought of. Breakfast is 8 EUR. Contact the hotel to enquire about special offers. 280 rooms (20 singles 95 - 130, 208 doubles 95 - 130, 35 suites 195 - 230, 18 Junior Suite 140 - 175). ABGHKLOPRTU hhhh

Mid-range
A fair number of mid-range options can be found in the city. Be sure to check the Out Of Town section for more of them. Price range 330 - 1000Kn. Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. 484 11 22,
fax 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotelcentral.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a few minutes walk to the central parks and Trg Jelaia, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views arent too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. 76 rooms (38 singles 470 - 600Kn, 33 doubles 720 - 830Kn, 5 triples 990Kn, 4 Junior Suite 1300Kn). AHJOPT hhh

Cream of the crop

Spendy and well wor th it, the following options include ever ything you could possibly need and more. Price range 690 - 11,461kn. Arcotel Allegra D-3/4, Branimirova 29, tel.
469 60 00, fax 469 60 96, allegra@arcotel.at, www.arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Center in Zagrebs downtown core, encompasses not only the already operating four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex

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10 Instant Zagreb

Hostels
Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. 484
12 61/ 484 12 67, fax 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. The location is excellent - right in the hear t of town, close to the bus and train stations. The staff couldnt tr y harder to please you. And its cheap as chips. But its in desperate need of renovation: youll think youre in a Stephen King novel in some par ts - a sad stor y of awaiting building permits. But its fine if all you need is a clean place to rest your head and youre not so fussed about the glamour details. Prices are per person. 55 rooms (25 singles 165 - 225Kn, 25 doubles 225 - 300Kn, 5 triples 270Kn, 25 6-bedded 80 - 0Kn). AJ

Lifestyle Director y
Emergency health care
Catholic H-2/3, Vinogradska 29, tel. 378 71 11. Catholic hospital. Open 24hrs. Childrens Emergency A/B-3, Klaieva 16, tel. 460 01 11. Open 24hrs. Dental Emergency B-3, Perkoveva 3, tel. 482 84 88. Sundays and holidays open 24hrs. General Health H-2, Ul.Sv.Duha 64, tel. 371 21 11. Open 24hrs. KB Dubrava L-1/2, Avenija Gojka uka 6, tel. 290 24 44. Emergency service to most parts of town. Sundays and holidays open 24hrs. KBC Rebro D-3, Kipatieva 12, tel. 238 88 88. General emergencies. Open 24hrs. Klinika bolnica Merkur D-2, Zajeva 19, tel. 243 13 90. Open 24hrs.

Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d,

tel. 233 23 25, fax 234 56 07, ravnice-youthhostel.hr@zg.htnet.hr, www.ravnice-youth-hostel.hr. This new hostel knows how its supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, its of the simple dormitor y style and is woody and ver y clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host takes the experience to the next level. An internet caf is par t of the scene, youll be happy if this is your choice and you dont mind the shor t jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). 5 rooms (2 doubles, 2doubles/4 beds, 1dormitor y/10 beds) 15 per person. R

Language schools
Berlitz C-2, Amrueva 10, tel. 481 21 16, fax 481 19 58, berlitz@berlitz.hr. Conversation-style approach to various languages. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11f, tel. 631 19 00, fax 631

19 09, zeljeznicko.ugostiteljstvo2@zg.t-com.hr, www.zeljeznicko-ugostiteljstvo.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, its fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are ver y simple and its located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg Jelaia is a 20min walk. 25 rooms (9 singles 427Kn, 2 doubles 662Kn, 11 triples 885Kn, 3 apar tments 960Kn). AHK hhh

Libraries
City Library C-4, Trg Ante Starceviea 6, tel. 457 23 44/ 457 20 84, fax 457 20 89. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. La mediatheque C-2/3, Preradovieva 5, tel. 488 35 70, mediatheque@ambafrance.hr. Open 12:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14: 00. Closed Sun. National University Library I-4, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. 616 41 11. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.

Laguna A-4, Kranjevieva 29, tel. 304 70 00,

fax 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www.hotellaguna.hr. A comfor table budget option, just a shor t tram hop from the main square. The rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas have just been refurbished and feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dr y cleaner and gym. Pets welcome. 160 rooms (54 singles 512Kn, 89 doubles 636Kn, 12 triples 837Kn, 5 suites 880Kn). ADGHKPT hhh

Dry cleaners & Laundries

Dinko D-3, Kneza Mislava 7, tel. 455 34 10. Also at Gajeva 29a. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Dubravka Djakovi - Dubravka J-3, Ivana Bunia 26, tel. 098 31 75 80. Open 08:00 - 12:00 - 17:00-20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Cls Sun. abrilovi Amila C-2/3, Petra Berislavia 16, tel. 487 23 87. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Cls Sun. Express A/B-2, orieva 3b, tel. 492 26 29. Open 08:00 - 20: 00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Sliko K-3, Supilova 13, tel. 618 47 77, fax 619 42

23, hotel@slisko.hr; hotel.slisko.ugostiteljski.obrt@z, www.slisko.hr. Its only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically ever ything. Rooms are simple and well kept and the staff a ver y friendly one. A good option for sure if you dont mind the shor t commute into town (25min on foot, 15min by tram). 17 rooms (2 singles 380Kn, 10 doubles 510Kn, 3 triples 635Kn, 2 quads 760Kn). AKLP hh

Pharmacy (0-24)
Trg bana Jelaia (C-2), tel. 481 61 59 Ilica 301 (A-2), tel. 375 03 21 Ozaljska 1(H-3), tel. 309 75 86 Avenija V. Holjevca 22 (Siget) (I-5),tel. 652 54 25 Grianska 4 (Dubrava) (L-2), tel. 299 23 50

Vila Tina K-1, Bukovaka cesta 213, tel. 244 51

38/ 244 52 04, fax 244 52 04, vilatina@zg.htnet.hr, www.vilatina.com. A posh modern building in a quiet eighbourhood near the beautiful Maksimir Park. Furnished in a cosy style, the pool with sauna and solarium tweak your comfor t to turbo level. Take bus N2 or 3 nor th up Bukovaka cesta, or simply stroll up the hill. 16 rooms (6 singles 480 - 560Kn, 8 doubles 640Kn, 2 triples 720 - 800Kn). ACDFHKLPRTU hhh

Petrol stations
Ina A-3, Ljubljanska avenija-south, tel. 363 60 06. Open 24hrs. Also at: D-1,Langov trg bb, tel.481 44 74; K-3,Heinzelova bb,tel 244 14 34; J-3, A.M.Dria,tel 618 47 55. Petrol commerce F/G/H/I-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, tel. 388 47 49. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

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Instant Zagreb 11

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Getting around
Public transport
Good news: your tram adventure now costs you an extra kuna! Trams run from 04:00 - 23:45; the night trams are totally unreliable and ill-advised endeavors, yet run from 23:35 - 03:46. A 8kn ticket entitles you to one and a half hours of pure pleasure and can be purchased at the front of the tram or at a kiosk. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 150kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are incosistent but not uncommon. It must be said: the city did a great job with the August reconstruction. For information about public transpor t contact ZET, Ozaljska 105, tel. 365 15 55. Buses C-4, Ozaljska 105, tel. 660 04 46 Bus Traffic
West/ 660 04 45 Bus Traffic East. Bus tickets cost the same as tram tickets and can be purchased in the same places. A list of depar ture times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transpor t is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Impor tanne Mall passage. For information about public transpor t contact ZET.

Trams - ZET H-3, Ozaljska 105, tel. 365 15 55/ 660 04

42, fax 369 41 21, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Trams run from 04:00 - 23:45; night trams are totally unreliable and ill-advised endeavors, yet run from 23:35 - 03:46. Purchase tram tickets at kiosks or post offices for 6.5kn, from the driver for 8kn or a daily ticket for 18kn. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket ia as good as no ticket at all.

Car Rental
Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. 626 53 33, fax 626
54 44, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. Open 07: 00 - 21:00. A Her t z B-3, Vukotinovieva 4, tel. 484 67 77, reservations@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Airpor t Zagreb, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

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Taxis
Taxi D-6, Boidara Magovca 55, tel. 660 06 71/radio
Taxi 970, fax 669 26 86, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 25Kn flat fee plus 7Kn/km except on holidays and Sundays and at night when an extra 20% is tacked on to bill.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels,the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.Open 24 hrs. Star t: 25 Kn Drive (1km): 7Kn Waiting: 80Kn Luggage: 5Kn Night drive 22:00 - 05:00 : plus 20%

Road help (HAK) tel. 987

Croatian Auto Club 24hour road ser vice in English. Road conditions tel. 464 08 00. Office Drakovieva 25, tel. 455 44 33, www.hak.hr. www.inyourpocket.com Instant Zagreb 12