Medina, Yves Peter Carlo d.R.

/ 2012- 58664 January 9, 2014

A Taste of Pampanga

Comm10 Z

Food has been part of the Filipino culture. Almost all Filipinos love to eat and to go food trips wherever and whenever. As I have observed it, Filipinos are willing to spend money more on their food rather than in other materials. It is not a surprise why different restaurants and food stalls emerged in our country. Hence, each province in the Philippines has a unique cuisine to offer. But Kapampangan cuisine has been said that it rose above all. A friend of mine once shared me a ridiculous story of his. A lady approached him and confirmed if he is from Pampanga and he said yes. She then asked him if he can cook, and immediately he responded no. The lady told him that he is worthless. Like my friend, I am a Kapampangan too and since childhood I have been exposed to how my mom and my grandmother prepare our meal. I can say that, somehow, I have learned and remembered how to cook in Kapampangan way. At the early age of eight years old I already started cooking and helping my mom in the kitchen. Today, every time I meet people who do not live in Pampanga, one of the initial questions that they have is, if I am good in cooking. Hence, Pampanga is known to be a province where good cooks live.

In eighteen years of my life, Im very lucky to be able to travel around Philippines. With that, I can say Ive tasted the different cuisines our country has. Ilocano, Kapampangan, Batangeos, Cebuano, Zamboangueos cuisine are some of those I was able to taste. I admit that each has their unique style of cooking and each has their own delicacy, however my tongue couldnt deny the fact that Kapampangan cuisine rose above all. This judgement is without bias.

In the places Ive been through, like what Ive mentioned earlier, people always claim that when we are talking about food, definitely were also talking about the Kapampangan cuisine. No matter where I am, no matter whom I am talking to. That is the stereotype to the Kapampangan. After hearing my friends story and recalling my personal experiences with regard to this matter, thoughts that were formulated in my mind were, is it really necessary for a Kapampangan to have golden hands, thus be knowledgeable in the kitchen? And why does delicious and extraordinary cuisine being attributed to the Kapampangans? I got very eager to find the answers. I read different textbooks and blog posts related to the said issues. And these are what I found: Cruz (2013) wrote on her blog that one of the highly considered best tasting dishes in the country is the Kapampangan cuisine. The cuisine is an infusion of Cantonese, Malay, Mexican and Spanish cuisines. During Spanish colonization, Spanish friars taught the Kapampangan different dishes. With the inborn talent in the kitchen, the Kapampangans were able to make distinguish and unique blend of dishes that the colonizers influenced. Making the Kapampangan dishes celebrated all over the country. Another web blogger, Tantingco (2011) stressed that Kapampangan cuisine has a lot of herbs, vegetables and fruits. The cuisine is influenced by the European and American cuisines which set them unique from the cuisine of Thailand, of Vietnam and of Malaysia, who also use lots of herbs, vegetables and fruits. Tracing back history, before Pampanga was reached by the colonizers, Kapampangan ancestors cooked whatever they get in their local environment. It can also be assumed that they were already meat lovers by that time.

...if there still remains nowadays a characteristic cultural feature that distinguishes Pampangos at all social levels from other Filipino people it is their unique style of cooking which has resisted this age of sophistication, for the art did not die with the masters and the art was not born in a century but has long been cultivated during centuries of cultural intercourse with the Spaniards as their connoisseurs and pamperers. (Henson 1955, 154) I couldnt agree more with their descriptions of our cuisine. Indeed, one of the secrets of our cuisine is the variety of spices and processes we add and do in our dishes. One best example is the fermented rice famously known as buro. This dish is sauted in garlic, onion, tomatoes, ginger and the fermented rice. This is usually wrapped in fresh mustard leaves with grilled mudfish and/or catfish. People foreign to this taste give no dissatisfaction after eating this food. Kapampangan cuisine is also known because of its some exotic food. Batute Tugak (Stuffed Frogs), Pindang Kalabaw (Tocinong Kalabaw) and Camaru (Mole Crickets) are some of the exotic animals that we serve. As I heard from my dad, tracing back history, due to the revolts and calamities such as the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo, Kapampangan became resourceful and studied how to exhaust the scarce resources they have during that time. From then on, the cooking of these exotic animals has been part of the menu of the Kapampangans. To show the wide range of menu Kapampangan has, Henson (1955, 156) listed the variety of dishes Kapampangan has. Thus, divided the dishes into three categories: a. Pag-fiesta or dishes intended for celebrations such as fiesta or for banquet. Dishes are mainly inspired by the Spanish Cuisine: Cooked rice, if not this, arroz a la valenciana or paella or Sopa de pasta, will be an alternative. Pastel of snipes and purtenances of fowl, etc. (a pastry) Stewed tom turkey with garnishing,

 Relleno or stuffed chicken Stewed ox tongue with garnishing or lengua Apap (fish) with garnishing Ham (Jamon de Galicia during the Spanish regime) Australian Salad (formerly Russian, nowadays American fruit) However, this menu is not a novelty in the barrios of Pampanga unless they have the means and the right chef. b. Pagaldoldo or ordinary menu, hence everyday dishes. However, this menu is consist of varied dishes you could ever imagined, such as: Cooked Rice Sigang or Sinigang bulanglang paro (shrimp) or bulanglang bangus (milkfish) tidtad or dinuguan pacsing bitis babi or paksiw na paa ng baboy pindang or tocino dinerang bulig (grilled mudfish) and buru (fermented rice) toyung babi ( Pork with soy sauce) c. Lastly, the poor mans menu. Consisting of: Cooked Rice with corn Vegetables such as cancung, (kangkong) balasenas, (talong) culabasa (kalabasa) etc. Salty small shrimps or anchovies also called baguc and alubebe Like the other Filipino families there are some Kapampangan families who only eat once a day. Camote or cooked rice and salt are served in their small dining table. In a table form, let me present to you the confectionery and other Pampanga Delicatessen that Henson listed: Town Angeles, Apalit, Arayat, Bacolor, Guagua, Magalang, San Fernando, Santa Ana, Santa Rita Specialty (Native and Spanish) Ensaimadas, pastries, brazo de la reina, empanadas, mamones, pastillas de leche de caraballa, flan, panaditis, saniculas, etc.

Apalit Arayat Magalang Santa Rita

Espasol, putu-seco, the best Chefs Decorative fancy candies Ensaimadas, taisan and mamones Turrones de casuy (different form the Spanish Alicante)

Achara is a dish which is made in all towns. It is a side dish that is made from pickled papaya, small red onions, raisins, pineapple chunks, carrots, red bell peppers and vinegar.
Yet Pampangas culinary reputation is due not only to the variety of specialties the province is known for and that are regarded by some as too exotic for their taste. It is due also to the flavour Pampangos add to their cooking. While modern trends move toward nonfat, sugar-free alternatives, calories and cholesterol hardly figure in Pampango recipes and everyday cooking. The Pampango today will not hesitate to use pork lard in the begucan babi or binagoongan to ensure a more flavourful dish. The morcon must have more pieces of spicy chorizo de Bilbao ground together with the pork that is considered healthy, and the number of eggs seems more than is needed if those were only used as blinders. Kilos of sugar, for instance, are what make the preserved meats of tocino and tapa not only last but taste extra sweet. If sweetness is a major element in the local cooking, it is because Pampanga is a sugar-producing region. (Fenix 2005,

85) Fenix mentioned earlier that Pampanga cuisine is reached with sweet dishes. Thus, the labelled best halo-halo makers in the country are found in the province. Tayag (2006, 85-86) wrote in his journal that one of the best halo-halo makers in Pampanga and in the Philippines are the Kabigtings whose store is found in Poblacion, Arayat, Pampanga. Unlike the colorful halohalo out there, Kabigtings special halo-halo is consist of whole-kernel sweet corn, mashed white kidney beans, a spoonful of carabaos milk jalae (dulce gatas to the Ilonggos) and the finest hand-shaved ice only. Indeed, a unique and a flavourful halo-halo which costs Php 40.00 per

serving. Unfortunately, at present, due to the progress in the country, Kabigtings Halo-halo costs Php 65.00 per serving. According to Fenix (2005, 86-87) much has been said about Pampanga having the best cuisine in the Philippines. Its history gives great impact in giving the province the reputation as the culinary center of the country, thus formulates the stereotypes of the Pampangos. The women are expected to be the perfect wives because they have been trained in the kitchen since they were young and theyre confined only at home, to serve their husband and their children. With that, Kapampangan husbands have been stereotyped as the most pampered and spoiled Filipino male. However, today those stereotypes can no longer be accepted. The Kapampangans, both male and female, have adapted to the changes in the society. Women are found outside their home pursuing their careers, and men are showing that they, too, can excel in the field of cooking. I have been enlightened by these people with my questions earlier. It has clearly been explained as to why scrumptious and exotics cuisine is being attributed to the Kapampangans, hence Kapampangan individuals are expected to acquire the skills in cooking and be good at it. However, it is inevitable that each Kapampangan, regardless of gender, would acquire the said skills for each individual has their option whether they would or wouldnt learn and pass on the recipes that Kapampangans learned and crafted since time immemorial.

Reference: Books Fenix, Michaela. 2005. Pampanga: where every dish is a delicacy. In Slow Food: Philippine Culinary Traditions, ed. Panlilio Erlinda and Sta. Maria Felice, 85-87. Manila: Anvil Publishing Inc. Henson, Mariano. 1955. The Province of Pampanga and Its Towns (A. D. 1300-1955) Second Edition. Manila: Villanueva Book Store. Tayag, Claude. 2006. Food Tour: A culinary journal. Manila: Anvil Publishing Inc.

Online Cruz, Maria Krissna. 2013. Pampanga Culinary Tour: Kusina ni Atching Lillian. Clark Is It, July. http://www.clarkisit.com/pampanga-culinary-tour-kusina-ni-atching-lillian-2/ (accessed December 20, 2013)

Tantingco, Roby. 2011. History and Destiny in Kapampangan Cuisine. The Sunstar Pampanga, April. http://www.sunstar.com.ph/pampanga/opinion/2011/04/04/tantingcohistory-and-destiny-kapampangan-cuisine-148677 (accessed December 20, 2013)