ANCIENT HELLENIC RECIPES

INDEX

BREAD, FIRST COURSES, CEREALS Ancient pizza Artolaganon Archaic Bread Boletinos Artos (Mushroom Bread) A country soup Kapyria Lentil soup Lentil Stew

MAIN CURSES Chickpeas with Cheese Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis (Chickpeas in Saffron) Mushrooms, a recipe Hazelnuts with Herb Pure Green olives Olives pickled in fennel Wild hyacinth bulbs (lampascioni) Thrion- stuffed leaves Pickled Cheese

Mykai Honey-sweetened Cheese

FISH Stuffed Sardines Patina Zomoteganon Bream in cheese and oil Baked Fish of Archestratus Boned Oysters Seafood rissoles with a cumin sauce Marrow or squash Alexandria- style Rock eel with mulberry sauce A Dish of Soles with Eggs

EGGS AND MEAT Poached Egg in White Wine Mystron Kondros Meat in Red Wine Sauce Pork in Piquant Sauce Kandaulos Chicken with cracked wheat

SAUCES, DRESSINGS Sauce for Roast Fish Sauce for eggs Salad Dressing Mint sauce Sauce for sea urchins Olive spread Wine sauce for fried fish Condiment Sauce Sauce for Tuna

DESSERTS Nut omelette Glykinai (Wine Cakes) Gastris Honeyed Quinces Dates Alexandrine-style Athenian Cheese Cake Staititae Apanthrakis Teganites Palathai- cakes made of figs Phthois

Basyniai (Walnut and Fig Cakes) Pottage of Pastry and Milk Stuffed dried figs

An aid to digestion Spiced white Wine

BREAD, FIRST COURSES, CEREALS

Ancient pizza

2 cups organic whole spelt flour aprox 3/4 cup water pinch sea salt 1 tsp dried oregano 1 Tbsp olive oil Blend the spelt and dried oregano and knead, adding the water, salt and olive oil gradually until it is a uniform, elastic mass. If it sticks, add a little more flour. Knead for 5 minutes, then cover with a wet cloth and let it sit for about 10, 15 minutes. Afterwards, roll out with a rolling pin in a circle as wide as your pan. In a non- stick pan, drizzle some extra virgin olive oil. Turn the heat on medium, place the pan on the heat and let it heat for about 30 seconds. Drop the dough in the pan and fry on each side for about 2 minutes. The dough will bubble when it is frying its very much like making pita bread. When the dough is golden-brown on each side, place on a serving plate, drizzle with runny honey (2 Tbsp honey and 1 Tbsp warm water), sesame seeds (about 1 Tbsp), goat cheese (aprox. one cup) and a little bit on sea salt, just for enhancing the taste. Best served with olives on the side, arugula salad.

Artolaganon

But in making the so-called artolaganon, a little wine, pepper, and milk are introduced, along with a small quantity of oil or lard. Similarly into kapyria, called by the Romans tracta, are put mixtures as into the wheat-wafer

3 1/2 cups flour (350 g) 1 tablespoon salt yeast 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons lard 1/4 cup white wine (60 ml) 1/4 cup milk (60 ml) pepper to taste Put the flour in a bowl, mix in the salt, and make a well in the middle. Pour the yeast and water into the well, then mix gently. Transfer to a floured board and knead (flour hands frequently) until dough is compact, elastic, and smooth. Put the dough in an oiled bowl and let rise in a warm place. When it has doubled its volume (about 20-30 minutes), knead it and add the remaining ingredients mix evenly and add flour as needed. Set it to rise again (about 20 minutes). Punch it down an spread it evenly in an oiled rectangular pan; let it rise once more (about 20 minutes). When it has risen, cook it in a hot oven (250) for about 20 minutes, or until done in the middle and golden brown on top.

Archaic Bread

This ancient recipe is described by Athenaeus: 2 cups warm water or scalded milk cooled to lukewarm 2 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons barley meal

6 cups flour, barley or stone ground whole wheat Mix all ingredients except flour into a 2 quart jar. Place jar in a pan of hot water and let stand in a warm place free of drafts until fermentation begins approximately twelve hours or more. Replace hot water every 4 hours. Mix in 2 cups of the flour. Set aside once again in a warm place. Replace hot water in pan. A sponge should be formed in 4 to 6 hours. Put 4 cups flour in a bowl, make a well, and add sponge. Kneed well, lightly dusting your hands with flour until dough is smooth. Shape and put into oiled loaf pan. Cover with damp towel and place in a draft-free place to rise for 4 to 6 hours. It will not rise as high as modern breads. Bake in preheated over at 250 for 10 minutes. Reduct to 200 50 minutes.

Boletinos Artos (Mushroom Bread)

450g plain white flour 400ml warm water 1 tsp dried yeast 1 beaten egg white 4 tbsp poppy seeds 1 tbsp wheat flakes 1 tbsp olive oil butter for greasing tin 1 tsp sea salt

Pour 150ml of the warm (body temperature) water in a cup and add the sugar. Once it has dissolved sprinkle the yeast into the mix, cover with a cloth for 15 minutes until has begun to froth. In a large bowl mix together the flour, olive oil

and salt. Add the yeast mixture and the remaining water to this and knead until a firm dough is made. Take a round cake tin (about 14cm diameter) and grease well with butter. Sprinkle the tin's sides with the poppy seeds. Gently press the dough into the tin then place into a plastic bag and leave in a warm place for 2 hours to rise. By this time the dough should have risen over the rim of the tin giving it the characteristic 'mushroom' appearance. At this stage remove the plastic bag and gently brush the top of the loaf with beaten egg-white. Sprinkle the wheat flakes over this and place the loaf in an oven pre-heated to 200C for about 40 minutes.

A country soup

Below an indicative list of herbs, but one can use almost any greens that suit your fancy: 1/2 liter cold water per person (2 sliced potatoes per person: optional) 1 cardoon hops 1 bunch of chicory 1 bunch of salad greens 1 bunch of red poppy flowers 1 bunch of borage 2 tablespoon of lard chopped green peppers to taste 3 cloves of garlic

1 onion a dash of sage basil to taste Put cold, lightly salted water in a pot and add the potatoes; when they are nearly cooked, add the greens, cut into large pieces. Peel the cardoon and chop coarsely. Next add the lard, pepper, garlic, onion, sage and basil, and stir. Let it boil for 25 minutes- serve it in a bowl on top of a slice of crusty country bread.

Kapyria

In Catos day, it was made by mixing alica (large spelt grains) with flour and water; the dought has to be shaped round and then coated with oil, and then placed in the oven (Cato De Agr. 86). 2 kg wheat flour 1 kg spelt seeds water added to make a dough Soak the spelt seeds in water until they become soft; drain them and mash them until they make a compact paste. Gradually add the flour until it is absorbed; when the dough is the right consistency- not too sticky or too dry- mark various tracks or lines across the dough that you will make into strips, then roll it out and dry over a rack. Next, rub the strips with an oiled cloth and leave them to dry in the air or in a warmed oven. Once dried, the strips can be used as pasta with a favorite sauce. Or use durum (hard wheat) flour and water, and continue as above, again making pasta; or you can roll them out round and fry them in oil, dusting them with cinnamon once

they are cooled, as a dessert; or cook on an iron grill, over an open flame, and serve like tortillas.

Lentil soup

The sweetest of delicacies (Ath. 4. 158c) 450 gr lentils 2 liters broth 1 large minced leek 1 carrot, 1 stalk of celery, and 1 small onion- all sliced 2tablespoon vinegar 1 teaspoon honey olive oil 12 coriander seeds salt and pepper to taste Rinse the lentils thoroughly, then put them into a pot with the broth to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for one hour. When the hour is up, skim the top, add the vegetables and leave simmer again until it is cooked (about 30 minutes). If the soup seems too watery, pass some of the lentils through a sieve. Now add the vinegar and the honey. Pour into serving bowls and add a good dollop of olive oil, sprinkling on coriander seeds and salt and pepper to taste.

Lentil Stew

100g green lentils 1 medium onion 125 ml red wine 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp dried dill sprig of thyme sprig of oregano handful of fresh parsley 1 tbsp olive oil pinch of aniseed Twist of black pepper and sea salt to taste Slice the onion thinly and fry gently in olive oil until soft and just beginning to turn a golden brown. Add 600ml of water, the red wine and the lentils. Using a pestle and mortar grind the cumin and aniseed together and add this to the mixture along with the dill. Bring the mixture to the boil and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the lentils have cooked through. Make sure that the liquid has boiled away so that the lentils are almost dry. Stir in the finely-chopped thyme and oregano. Mash lightly with a fork and tip into a bowl. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.

MAIN CURSES

Chickpeas with Cheese

200g dry chick peas 100g Parmesan cheese (Pecorino Romano would also work well) olive oil Twist of black pepper and salt to taste Soak the chick peas in water for about 1 night. Drain and place in salted water. Bring the water to a boil and cook for 40 minutes or until tender. Drain the water and allow to cool slightly. Meanwhile grate the cheese and add a twist of black pepper. Add the cheese to the chickpeas and mash with a fork. Add a little extra virgin olive oil, mash this in and serve whilst still warm.

Erebinthoi Knakosymmigeis (Chickpeas in Saffron)

200g dry chick peas Pinch of saffron olive oil shredded basil (or mint) leaves to garnish Twist of black pepper and salt to taste Soak the chick peas in water for at least 3 hours (preferably overnight). Drain and place in salted water (about 1l of water). Bring the water to a boil and sprinkle in the saffron. Partially cover with a lid (allow a space for the steam to escape) and cook for at least an hour. (The chickpeas should be soft and almost dry when you take them off the heat.) Add pepper and a little olive oil and gently mix and mash with a fork. Serve warm garnished with shredded basil (or mint).

Mushrooms, a recipe

200g firm mushrooms, thickly sliced or cubed 1/2 tsp sea salt (or to taste) 2 tbsp olive oil 6 10ml red wine 2 tbsp finely-chopped coriander leaves "Boiled and served with salt, olive oil, wine and chopped coriander." Bring a pan of lightly-salted water to a boil. Add the mushroom pieces and cook until tender (between 5 and 30 minutes, depending on the type). When tender, drain in a colander then blot on kitchen paper. Arrange the mushroom pieces in a serving dish. Heat the wine and salt in a pan and whisk in the olive oil and coriander leaves then pour over the mushrooms and serve.

Hazelnuts with Herb Pure

100g hazelnuts (or walnuts if desired) Handful of fresh parsley 80ml olive oil 80ml red wine vinegar tsp ground black pepper 125g Feta cheese Handful of fresh coriander 2 or 3 mint leaves

Sprig of rue sea salt to taste Shell the hazelnuts and roast under a hot grill for five minutes, ensuring you turn them frequently to prevent burning. Allow the hazelnuts to cool and remove as much of the skin as you can. Roughly chop the cheese into cubes. Put this as well as the hazelnuts, herbs and black pepper in the mortar. Add the olive oil and wine vinegar then blend into a smooth paste. Pour the pure into a bowl and sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with lightly-toasted baguette rounds.

Green olives

The recipe of Cato is perfect as an appetizer: pick the olives before they turn black. Take any growths off of them and place them in a water bath. Change the water frequently and when they are well soaked, separate them and toss them in vinegar, adding oil and 170 gr of saltt per eight and one half liters of olives. When you are ready to use them, take them of the marinade, season them with fennel and a myrtle branch that has been soaked in oil. (Cato De Agr. 107) The water has to be changed daily for a week; the water should have at least 100gr per 8 liters when soaking the olives- rinse the olives before serving.

Olives pickled in fennel

First of all, cover them with cold pickling sauce so that they maintain their color; when there are enough gathered to fill a jar, cover the bottom of the jar with fennel and myrtle branches that have been prepared in a small kettle. Now take the olives out of the pickling, towel them dry, and mix in seeds, completely refilling the jar. Finally cover the top with dry anise and 2 part of dry, fresh mustard and 1 of oil/vinegar brine. Olives treated this way will last a year. The

olives, as in the previous recipe, should remain in the brine for several days to a week before they are eaten.

Wild hyacinth bulbs (lampascioni)

The bulbs have terrible bitterness, and to render them edible, the bulbs should be boiled, with numerous changes of water. Then they are peeled and a sauce is made to season them. Sauce: 1 teaspoon each thyme and oregano 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1 tablespoon each honey, vinegar and wine must 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoon minced dates salt to taste Mix all sauce ingredients and pour over the bulbs, adding fresh pepper to taste. A recipe for these bulbs with aphrodisiac power: for those searching for the joys of Venus, boil wild hyacinth bulbs in water, and for the true honeymoon, serve them with pine nuts and a sauce made by boiling arugula and adding pepper. (Apicius, 7. 14.3) 1 dozen wild hyacinth bulbs, already cleaned and boiled several times, or, if already marinated, rinse the bulbs until there is no more oil 20 gr arugula a handful of pine nuts

Boil the arugula for about three minutes, then drain it and put it in a blender with 1 teaspoon pepper. Pour the warm green sauce over warm bulbs and add a sprinkling of pine nuts.

Thrion- stuffed leaves

These are none other than the stuffed grape leaves that can be found everywhere in Hellas even today; in ancient times, fresh, tender fig leaves called thrion were used instead of grape leaves (in some parts of Hellas, they are still made with fig leaves and they are almost identical to those made with grape leaves, though a bit sweeter). Today the filling vary, and this was probably true in ancient times as well. 20 grape or fig leaves, ready (either prepared by boiling fresh leaves, or from a jar already spiced) 260 gr spelt 2 cups broth or water, plus extra for the final cooking 1 teaspoon salt 3 medium onions, sliced thickly 600 gr plain yoghurt 60 ml olive oil 2 tablespoons butter (to soften onions) Toss the leaves in boiling water, remove them after a few moments, and put them on a work surface. Select a copper pan that will allow the rolls to snugly fit one next to the other. Use any broken leaves to completely line the bottom of the pan, overlapping to ensure you cover the whole surface; this will help the rolled stufed leaves stay put during cooking.

Mix the grain and salt and cook until tender in the broth or water. When this is done, pinch off small pieces of the past, forming them into finger-sized sausagelike rolls of filling. To stuff the grape leaves, start by stretching out the leaf and placing a roll of filling in the center; fold up one end and the sides, rolling the leaf around the mixture like a cigar, making them about 5 cm long by 2 cm wide, making sure to tuck in the ends to prevent leakage. When the rolls are all in the pan, cover them with broth or water and oil and place a plate on top, to weigh down the rolls during cooking. Cook over a low flame for about one hour, checking frequently to make sure there is sufficient liquid in the pan. About 15 minutes before the rolls are done, make the sauce: saut the onions in the butter until soft but not brown. Add the yoghurt and a bit of the cooking water, and pour this sauce over the rolls as you are ready to serve them.

Pickled Cheese

200g Feta cheese A handful of fresh thyme 200ml white wine vinegar 1 tbsp clear honey Wash and dry the Feta cheese to remove excess salt then cut into 1cm cubes. Using a clean pickling jar place a layer of the cubed cheese in the bottom. Cover this with a layer of thyme and then a layer of cheese. Keep on adding alternating layers until the entire jar is filled. Thoroughly mix the honey and vinegar and pour the mixture into the pickling jar until the final layer of cheese is covered. Seal the jar and leave to infuse for a day.

Mykai

25g dried mushrooms 2 tbsp red wine vinegar pinch of salt 1 tbsp clear honey sea salt to taste

Place the mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling water, allowing them to soak for an hour. Pour this mixture into a saucepan, add the honey and vinegar and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for half an hour. Season with salt and serve. This mushroom mixture goes particularly well with game. For more people simply multiply the amounts above by the number of guests.

Honey-sweetened Cheese

225g ewes' milk cheese (Feta cheese works well because of its high salt content) 6 tbsp clear honey 1 tbsp olive oil Pinch of Ground coriander seeds Twist of black pepper and salt to taste Cut the cheese into 1cm cubes then heat the honey in a pan until it is very runny. Add the honey to the cheese and toss them together before allowing the mixture to stand for at least an hour. Lift the cheese from the excess honey and

dress with the coriander, salt and pepper, olive oil. You can either eat this dish with your fingers or the cheese can be served on thin toast squares. or

"Break off a piece of cheese, put it in a bowl, then turn a bronze sieve over the top and work the cheese through. Whenever you are about to serve pour sufficient honey over it." 200g feta cheese 4 tbsp clear honey This is an extremely simple dish, yet the saltiness of the feta and the sweetness of the honey work very well together.

FISH

Stuffed Sardines

500g cooked and boned sardines tsp ground pepper tsp lovage seeds tsp thyme tsp oregano tsp rue

150g stoned dates 1 tbsp honey 4 hard-boiled eggs 50ml white wine 3 tbsp green olive oil (cold-pressed) sprig of watercress to garnish

Sprinkle the surfaces of the sardines with freshly-ground pepper and fry for 2-3 minutes per side until thoroughly cooked. Once cooked, allow to cool and remove the backbone by taking hold of the tail and pulling it out through the body cavity. Finely chop the herbs and dates, transfer to a bowl and add all the liquid ingredients. Mix together well and use this to stuff the body cavities of the sardines. Arrange the stuffed sardines on a plate, quarter the boiled eggs and place around the sardines. Finally garnish with some watercress and serve.

Patina Zomoteganon

Arrange any chosen fish, uncooked in a pan. Add oil, fish sauce, wine, a bouquet of leek and coriander. While it cooks crush pepper, rub in a bouquet of lovage and oregano, add the juice from the cooked fish, beat in raw eggs, blend. Empty into the pan, allow to bind. When set, season with pepper and serve. (Apicius, 4, 2, 27) This simple dish can be made with any fish- I find it particularly good with white fish such as sole or plaice. 2 fillets of sole 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons fish sauce

150 ml white wine 1 bouquet garni of leek and fresh coriander 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano 2 eggs

Place the fillets in a backing dish and pour on the oil, fish sauce and wine. Add the bouquet garni and bake in a pre-heated oven at 190 for 20 minutes. Remove; drain off the cooking liquid and reserve. In a mortar pound the pepper, lovage, oregano and the cooked bouquet. Flush out the mixture with the cooking liquid and mix in the eggs. Pour this over the fish and return to the oven until it has set. Serve immediately sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper.

Alternative: Patina of asparagus Put asparagus tips in a mortar, pound, add wine, sieve. Pound pepper, lovage, fresh coriander, savory, onion, wine, fish sauce, oil. Put pure and spices in a greased shallow pan, and, if you wish, break eggs over it while cooking, so that it sets. Sprinkle ground pepper. (Apicius 4. 2.6)

Bream in cheese and oil

(Archestratus 13) 1 sea bream or porgy 250 gr pecorino romano cheese 3 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin Clean and descale carefully the fish; break up the cheese and put it in a mortar with the oil. Work for few minutes until you have a firm, smooth paste. Brush a non-stick baking tray with olive oil and lie the fish on this. Spread half the cheese mixture over the fish, ensuring that the skin is completely hidden by the cheese. Carefully turn over the fish and repeat. Heat the oven to 220 and bake the fish for 20 minutes. Take it out of the oven, carefully turn it over and return for a further 10 to 15 minutes. Mix the salt and the cumin together and sprinkle it over the crust. Finish with a tablespoon of olive oil dribbled over the fish.

Baked Fish of Archestratus

The best fish you can find..sprinkle with marjoram. Wrap the fish in fig leaves and bake. Have the slaves serve it on silver platters. 1 white fish (cod, sole, flounder) 1/2 teaspoon marjoram salt and pepper 1 lemon, juice of 4 green onions, sliced the long way 12 fig leaves or 12 grape leaves, drained and rinsed 1 cup dry white wine Cut fish into 1-cm-square pieces. Sprinkle with marjoram, salt and pepper, and lemon juice. Pour hot water over the fig leaves to soften, or rinse the canned grape leaves in cold water. Spread leaves out one by one. Place a piece of fish and a bit of green onion on a leaf and wrap it up, tucking in the sides as you roll. Place the rolls side by side in an oblong baking pan and pour the wine over all. Bake in a preheated oven at 200 for 20 minutes, uncovered, then serve.

An alternative: The best way to present this fish I mean, then in fig leaves with not too much origano is the way. No cheese, no fancy nonsense. Simply place it with care in the fig leaves and tie them with rush-cord from above. Then put into hot ashes and use your intelligence to workout the time when it will be roasted: dont let it burn up.

Boned Oysters

This recipe comes from Chares of Mytilene: Use only the large Asiatic oysters caught in the Indian Ocearn, Black Sea, or the Persian and Arabian gulfs. Use the delicious white meat only. Discard the round white bone sometimes discovered inside theshellor give it to some Persian. They seem to prefer these bones to gold; they call them pearls. 1 dozen oysters 1 cup flour 1/2 cup oil salt and pepper to taste Drain liquid from jar. Roll in flour. Heat it until hot in a large frying pan. Fry oysters on medium-high heat for 5 minutes turning over once. Sprinkle with seasonings and serve.

Seafood rissoles with a cumin sauce

"Seafood rissoles are made with cigales and lobsters, with cuttlefish, with squid, with langoustes. You flavour the rissole with pepper, fish sauce, cumin, asafoetida root." (Apicius 2,1)

225 gr scampi, or lobster (other seafood can be substituted) 1/2 teaspoon asafoetida powder 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground cumin 30 ml fish sauce 1 tablespoon breadcrumbs flour for dusting

Sauce: 50 ml white wine vinegar 50 ml white wine 60 gr clear honey 30 fish sauce 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint 1 handful of fresh parsley, chopped 1 teaspoon chopped fresh lovage or celery leaf ground black pepper Pound the fish down in a mortar or process it to a coarse mince; add the asafoetida, pepper, cumin, fish sauce and breadcrumbs and mixwell. Turn out on to a floured board and form into about 12 balls. Roll in extra flour and leave to chill, while you prepare the sauce.

Combine the sauce ingredients in a frying-pan, bring to the boil and simmer briefly. Add the rissoles and poach them gently for about 10 minutes, turning them occasionally. Serve immediately accompanied by the sauce.

Marrow or squash Alexandria- style

1 small young marrow or yellow squash salt 4 fresh dates soaked in a little wine 30 gr pine kernels, soaked in a little wine 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 2 teaspoon chopped fresh mint 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon defrutum (reduced red grape juice) 3 tablespoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar Slice the marrow and steam or boil until al dente; arrange the slices in a backing dish and sprinkle with salt.

Take the stones from the dates and put the flesh in the mortar with the pine kernels. Marsh them down to a paste; transfer to a bowl and add cumin, coriander, pepper, mint and mix well. Scrape down the mash and add the honey, defrutum, oil, fish sauce and vinegar. Stir into a smooth emulsion and pour over the marrow. Cover with a foil or lid and reheat thoroughly in a pre-heated oven at 180- serve sprinkled with ground pepper.

Rock eel with mulberry sauce

220 gr blackberries or mulberries 150 ml red wine 4 rock eel steaks 150 ml white wine bouquet garni of oregano and rue 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons fish sauce (or salt) 2 tablespoons vinegar a little cornflour Wash and pick over the fruit and place it with the red wine in a saucepan to heat. Poach the fish steaks in the white wine and the bouquet garni. Remove the fish and keep warm. Add the white wine and the bouquet to the fruit and cook out for 15 minutes. Add the honey, fish sauce and vinegar. Pass the sauce through a strainer; put the pulp through leaving the seeds. Return to the heat and thicken with a little cornflour. Serve the fish steaks with a little sauce poured over one edge.

A Dish of Soles with Eggs

500g fillets of sole 6 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp fish sauce 60ml white wine 1 bouquet of chives, tied together 1/2 tsp coriander seeds 1/2 tsp freshly-ground black pepper 1/2 tsp dried oregano, crumbled 5 raw eggs 100ml milk Combine the olive oil, liquamen, olive oil, chives and coriander seeds in a skillet or deep-sided frying pan. Lay in the sole fillets, bring back to a simmer then cover with a lid and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the fish is tender. In the meantime, pound together the black pepper and oregano in a mortar. Moisten with a little of the milk then scrape into a bowl. Crack in the eggs and whisk then beat in the remainder of the milk. When the soles have cooked strain the cooking liquid and whisk into the egg mixture. Pour this omelette mix back over the sole fillets and cook until the omelette mixture is set. Serve hot.

EGGS AND MEAT

Poached Egg in White Wine

6 eggs 3 tbsp fish sauce 6 tbsp dry white wine 6 tbsp olive oil Take six ramekin dishes and grease them with a tablespoon each of olive oil. Crack an egg into each and place into a large pyrex dish. Fill to half-way up the ramekins with boiling water. Very carefully pour a tablespoon of wine and half a tablespoon of fish sauce. Cover with a lid (or aluminium foil) and place in an oven pre-heated to 190C for fifteen minutes. Serve immediately.

Mystron

2 cups pearl barley 1/3 cup olive oil 4 cups chicken broth Place barley, oil, and broth in a rice steamer. Cook until done. (Alternatively, combine ingredients in a large pot and cook on a stovetop as directed for barley) Serve in hollowed out bread loaves (optional). Nicander of Colophon is the author who employs the word mystron when describing the use of the word barley groats in the first of his two books On Farming. He writes: But when you are making a dish of fresh kid or lamb or capon, put some barley groats in a mortar, pound them well, then stir in some ripe olive oil. When the stock is boiling hard, pour it over the pounded groats, put

the lid on the pot and steam it; for when it is cooked in this way, the heavy meal swells up. Serve it when lukewarm in hollow mystra.

Kondros

When making a dish of goat, lamb, or a chicken freshly killed, throw fresh grain (barley) in a pan and crush it well, mixing in fragrant oil. When the broth is boiling vigorously, put in the rest, then cover the pan with a lidd and leave it to cook, covered, because that way the heavy mixture swells. Serve with a tablespoon of new wine. (Nicander of Colophon fr. 68 Schneider) 1 cup cooked barley shredded lamb or chicken- cooked 1 onion 1 tablespoon parsley 3 sages leaves 500 ml broth 60 ml olive oil salt and pepper to taste

Meat in Red Wine Sauce

"Cured meat or slices of ham, similarly raw meat: first the cured meat is boiled a little just to take away its saltiness. Then put all these ingredients into a pan: four parts wine, two parts of grape syrup, one part of wine vinegar, dry coriander, thyme, dill, fennel. Fry, after putting everything in together at the start, then boil.

Half-way through the cooking some people add honey and ground cumin, others pepper, and after putting the sauce into a warmed pot they add little pieces of hot loin and bread." (Heidelberg papyrus) 250g sliced meat 250ml red wine 60ml red wine vinegar 1 tsp dried dill 1 tsp dried thyme 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tbsp honey half a head of fennel 1 tsp ground pepper 1 thick slice wholemeal bread salt and pepper to taste

Pork in Piquant Sauce

1 kg pork 120ml olive oil 250ml white wine juice of half a lemon 250g sweet white wine 5 dried figs 2 tsp coriander seeds

2 tsp dried oregano 3 tsp white wine vinegar handful of fresh parsley pinch of peppercorns sea salt to taste Cut the pork into 2cm cubes and place them in a casserole dish. Fry these in a little olive oil until they have browned. Add the spices to a mortar and grind with a pestle. Place this along with some salt and the lemon juice in a bowl and toss the fried pork in it. Roughly chop the figs and place them in a saucepan with a few tablespoons of water. Bring to the boil and simmer for five minutes. Strain the fig juice into the casserole dish, discarding the solid pieces of fig. Add the pork and the remaining lemon juice to this. Add the wine, vinegar and remaining olive oil to the casserole dish and place in an oven heated to 180C for an hour and a half. When done ladle the pork into a bowl and sprinkle with finelychopped parsley.

Kandaulos

1kg breast of lamb boned and cubed 200gr feta cheese 100gr fresh breadcrumbs ideally from atbread 1 tablespoon dill seeds crushed 1 tablespoon chopped dill 1 tablespoon chopped chives Cover the lamb cubes and dill seed with water then bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer until soft. Cut the cheese into cubes and add to the stew. Stir in the breadcrumbs. Let these thicken the broth, then add salt and chopped herbs.

Chicken with cracked wheat

1 small chicken 500g hulled barley or wheat 50g fresh butter (optional) 1/2 cup olive oil 1 onion, quartered 1 carrot, sliced 1 stalks celery, with leaves, chopped salt and pepp Place the chicken and vegetables in a pot with enough water to cover. Add salt and pepper and cook over medium heat until chicken falls off the bones, about 1 hour. Remove the meat and cool. Return the bones to the stock, simmer another 15-20 minutes, cool and strain. Meanwhile chop the chicken and set aside. Heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter and saute the bulgur. Slowly add the hot stock, stir, and simmer, covered, over very low heat foe 2 hours, occasionally stirring until the bulgur cracks. About 20 minutes before the end, stir in the chopped chicken. Pour some melted butter on top and serve.

SAUCES, DRESSINGS

Sauce for Roast Fish

1 teaspoon pepper 1 dry onion 2 tablespoon vinegar 2 eggs 1 teaspoon honey 2 teaspoon dill 1 tablespoon oil Crush pepper, lovage, satury, dry onions; moisten with vinegar, add dill, yolks of egg, honey, vinegar, broth and oil; all this mix thoroughly and underlay the fish with it. If properly handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or broiled fish.

Sauce for eggs

120g shelled pine nut kernels large pinch of chopped lovage (or celery leaves if not available) 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar A pinch of salt and pepper

Soak the pine kernels for a couple of hours in water then drain and let them dry. Place the lovage, pepper and salt in a mortar with the pine kernels and grind them with a pestle until they form a smooth paste. Mix this paste with the honey and vinegar and pour over some boiled or poached eggs (the original recipe calls for poached eggs, but this works just as well with halved boiled eggs).

Salad Dressing

30g lovage leaves (substitute young celery leaves if not available) tsp raisins dried mint 1 tsp ground white pepper 2 tbsp clear honey 1 tbsp red wine vinegar A pinch of salt and pepper. Finely chop the lovage leaves and the raisins. Place these in a small bowl and add the other ingredients. Whisk to mix properly then serve with the green salad.

Mint sauce

Or even the downy leaves of tender mint- often again, chopping up fresh pepper or Median cress (Athen. 2.66d) 30 gr mint leaves 30 gr green peppercorns (pickled)

30 gr safflower (false saffron) pinch of salt 1 tablespoon vinegar 3 tablespoon olive oil Crush the peppercorns, mint, safflower and salt in a mortar; add oil and vinegar and stir..

Sauce for sea urchins

Sauce from Archippus, Fishes 1 tablespoon honey 3 tablespoons vinegar 1 tablespoon mint 1 tablespoon parsley Dissolve the honey in the vinegar, then finaLly mince the parsley and mint and mix the spices into the honey and vinegar. When ready to eat the urchins, split them in two, cleaning away the spine. Find and clean the egg, pour a dollop of the sauce on the egg in the shell and..enjoy.

Olive spread

This recipe is recorded by Cato and uses all the main avourings of the time. Really ne on a piece of warm atbread with some hummous like chickpea dip. 100gr pitted green olives 100gr pitted black olives

50ml olive oil 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 teaspoon each crushed cumin seed, coriander seed then1 tablespoon chopped mint, rue and fennel leaves.

Wine sauce for fried fish

2 teaspoons black pepper 2 teaspoons lovage 50 gr rue 1 bouquet green herbs 2 dry onions wine to mix the crushed elements Fry the fish; crush pepper, lovage, rue, green herbs, dry onions, add oil wine broth and serve.

Condiment Sauce

1/4 tsp pepper 1/4 tsp lovage seeds (or celery seeds) 1/4 tsp dried mint 30g pine nuts, finely chopped 2 tbsp seedless raisins 2 tbsp dates, finely chopped

1 tsp honey 1 tsp white wine vinegar 200ml beef or game stock 2 tbsp fish sauce 60ml white wine 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp flour, to thicken 100g Mozzarella cheese, finely grated Grind together the pepper,lovage (or celery) seeds, in a mortar then pound in the mint, pine nuts, raisins and dates. Work with the hone,y white wine vinegar, fish sauce, olive oil and wine until smooth then scrape into a pan and add the stock. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Whisk in the flour until smooth then mix in the cheese. Continue cooking until the cheese has melted then serve as an accompaniment

Sauce for Tuna

1kg baked or fried tuna 1/2 tsp freshly-ground black pepper 1/2 tsp cumin seeds 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp coriander seeds 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 tbsp raisins 1 tbsp honey

1/2 tbsp white wine vinegar 60ml white wine 1 tbsp (fish sauce) 200ml fish stock 1 tsp cornflour mixed to a slurry in 1 tbsp water

Combine the black pepper, cumin seeds, tyme and coriander seeds in a mortar. Pound to grind then add the shallot and raisins and pound again. Mix in the honey, white wine vinegar, white wine, fish sauce and fish stock then turn into a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook gently for 20 minutes. At this point, whisk in the cornflour slurry and cook for a further 5 minutes. Serve to accompany the baked or fried tuna.

DESSERTS

Nut omelette

60 gr nibbed almonds 60 gr broken walnuts 30 gr pine kernel 30 gr clear honey 60 ml white wine 2 tablespoons milk 1 teaspoon salt 6 eggs ground black pepper 15 ml olive oil Combine all the nuts and roast them in the oven at 180 for 10 minutes. Pound or grind them down to a uniform texture resembling coarse breadcrumbs. Place in a bowl and add honey, wine, milk, salt and eggs, and beat smooth. Season with black pepper. Heat the olive oil in a no-stick frying-pan and pour in the mixture. Cook as for a basic omelette and grill or 1 or 2 minutes to set the top.

Glykinai (Wine Cakes)

200g fine white flour 60ml olive oil

80ml wine 1 egg white, beaten Put the flour into a bowl and form an indentation in the middle. Pour the oil into this and with your fingers start rubbing the oil and flour together until the mixture forms breadcrumbs. Add the Caroenum and knead into a smooth dough. Cover in clingfilm and set aside in the fridge for an hour. Place the dough on a floured surface and roll thinly. Cut into 3cm rounds and arrange on a greased baking tray. Brush each biscuit (cookie) with beaten egg white to glaze and place in an oven pre-heated to 190C and bake for 25 minutes until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool before serving.

Gastris

Filling: 1/2 cup golden raisins, soaked overnight 1/2 cup dark raisins, soaked overnight 1 cup almonds, soaked and blanched 1 cup dried apricots, soaked 8 Tbsp honey 1 Tbsp olive oil 2 cups hazelnuts 1/2 cup walnuts, soaked overnight 2 cups poppy seeds 1 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper (optional but highly recommended) Water as needed

Crust: 3 Tbsp honey 2 cups sesame seeds In a medium pan, dry toast the poppy seeds on medium heat for 1 minute. Transfer the poppy seeds in a separate contained and toast the hazelnuts the same way. Add all the ingredients for the filling in a blender, starting with the soaked dried fruits, then adding the almonds, walnuts and hazelnuts, then the honey and olive oil. At last, add the poppy seeds and the pepper. If the mixture gets too dry, add cold water, one tablespoon at a time. The mixture should not have a liquid consistency. You need a strong blender for this. The crust: blend together the sesame seeds and the honey until you have obtained a homogeneous mixture. Assemblage: Divide the sesame paste into two equal parts. Spread the first half on a parchment paper lined 8X11 pan, add the filling on top, pressing down with the back of a spoon until it is evenly spread in the pan. Add the second half of the sesame seed on top of the filling and refrigerate for at least eight hours. Cut in squares and serve.

Honeyed Quinces

10 quinces (Pears can be substituted but quinces are tarter. If using pears reduce the honey by 1/3 and add the juice of half a lime) 100ml honey cinnamon 250ml sweet white wine

Peel, core and dice the quinces and put them in a saucepan. Add the wine and homey and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for 30 minutes until they are soft (reduce the time for pears). Transfer to a blender and puree. Pour into individual bowls and chill in the fridge before serving.

Dates Alexandrine-style

20 whole dates 20 blanched almonds cinnamon 25g butter honey Heat the butter until just molten then stone the dates. Dip the almonds in butter and roll the in the cinnamon before stuffing one into each date. Place in an ovenproof dish and coat each date in honey. Pour over the remaining butter and bake in a very hot oven (210C) for 58 minutes before serving.

Athenian Cheese Cake

Archestratus wrote Forget all other dessert, there is only one: the Athenian cheese cake with Attica honey from Hymettus. Filling: 4 eggs, separated

12/ cup honey or sugar 1 lemon, juice and rind 1/2 cup flour 1 pond pot cheese 1 cup sour cream or yogurt Crust: 1 cup crumbs from zwiback rusks, cookies or graham crackers 1/4 cup ground walnuts or almonds 2 tablespons oil or butter In a large bowl, beat egg whites until stiff (with a sprinkle of salt). In a blender blend yolks, honey, lemon juice, rind, floud and cheese for a few seconds. Fold batter into egg whites using spatula. Fold in sour cream. In a separate bowl mix crumbs and nuts together. Grease the bottom and sides of a large cake pan or spring-form cake pan. Spread crumbs over bottom and sides. Pour mixture in cake pan and bake at 180/200 for 45 minutes. Chill in cake pan 6 hours before cutting and serving.

Staititae

The combination of honey and sesame was a common one and recurs in many guises, sometimes rolled in sesame and some-times in poppy seeds. This version derives from Athenaeus: the soft dough is poured upon a frying pan and on it are spread honey, sesame and cheese. 1 tablespoon honey 120gr plain our 200ml water

pinch salt oil for frying Topping cheese honey toasted sesame seeds Mix the honey, water and our into a dough. Heat a pan then add a little oil. Add the dough a tablespoonful at a time and cook like a pancake on both sides.Spread with warmed cheese and honey then dredge with toasted sesame seeds.

Apanthrakis

from Athenaeus (3.110b).5 cups of flour (500 g) 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup sour milk (250 ml) (to make sour milk add 1/2 teaspoon of lemon juice or vinegar to milk and stir to blend) yeast 1 tablespoon honey 1 cup warm water (250 ml) 1/4 cup olive oil (60 ml) Mix the flour and salt, place in a mound and make a well in the center. Pour in the oil, sour milk, honey water and yeast. Work the dough in the normal manner (bring flour into wet ingredients slowly mixing with hands, then knead) until it is smooth and elastic. Place in a warm place protected from drafts for about two hours. Punch down and knead the risen dough again, and cut into 10 or 12

pieces. Roll each piece out with a rolling pin to make it round. Place on a well greased baking sheet in a warm spot to rise again (30-40 minutes). Finally, bake them for 20 minutes in a hot oven (200).

Teganites

The Roman Physician Galinos (129 99 ac) describes in his book this sweet with many details. 120 gr flour 225 ml water 2 spoons honey Oil for frying 1 spoon (15 gr) baked sesame seeds Mix the flour, the water and one spoon of honey and make a dough. Heat 2 spoons oil in a frying pan and pour of the mixture. When it thickens turn it upside down 2 -3 times to fry it in both sides. Prepare 3 more fritters following the given instructions. Serve them hot, pour over the rest of the honey and dredge sesame seeds over them.

Palathai- cakes made of figs

400g dried figs (preferably semi-dried so that the seeds are not too dry) 1 tsp ground coriander seeds 1 tsp white flour Remove the stalks from the figs then place in a blender and blend to a smooth paste. Pour the paste onto a plate, flatten and shape into a round. Mix the flour

and coriander seeds together and use this to dust the outside of the 'cake'. Cook it for about 40 minutes at 180. Cut into slices and serve.

Phthois

200g strong white cheese, finely grated 100g strong wholemeal flour 60g clear honey (for the pastry) 60g clear honey (for the coating) 1 tbsp poppy seeds Olive Oil Finely grate the cheese and mix in with the flour. Knead with your fingers until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. At this point, add the honey and work into the dough. Fill a frying pan to a depth of about 2cm with olive oil and heat. Test the oil by dipping a piece of the dough into it. When this begins to sizzle the oil is hot enough. Shape the remainder of the dough into balls about 2cm in diameter. Place these in the oil and cook until they are golden brown. Lift with a slotted spoon, drain and remove the excess oil with kitchen roll. Pour the honey into a saucepan and heat until it becomes very runny. Coat the pastry rounds in this then pour the poppy seeds onto the plate and roll the honey-covered rounds in this until they are covered in the poppy seeds. These can be served either warm or cold.

Basyniai (Walnut and Fig Cakes)

For the Cake: 200g fine self-raising flour

60ml olive oil 80ml water

For the Filling: 75g ground walnuts 15g poppy seeds 25g sesame seeds 25g dried figs 80ml olive oil pinch of pepper 80ml clear honey

Mix the flour, olive oil and water in a large bowl until it forms a smooth dough (adding more water if needed). Leave this on the side and begin forming the filling. Heat a dry frying pan and add the ground walnuts and poppy seeds. Toast these for about 3 minutes, stirring all the while to prevent burning. Turn out onto a plate and allow to cool. Pour the sesame seeds in a bowl. Meanwhile place the figs and dates in a blender along with the nuts, poppy seeds and pepper. Blend unti the mixture resembles a thick dough. Meanwhile roll out the pastry as thinly as possible on a floured surface. Using a 6cm diameter cutter excise discs from the pastry. Place a teaspoon of the pureed filling in to the pastry disc. Brush water around the edge of the pastry round and then place another on top, pinching the edges to seal them together. Bake in an oven pre-heated to 200C for about 40 minutes until the crust is a pale golden color. This loaf should have a soft centre and is excellent with soups. Once you have a stack of these heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and fry the pastries until they are crisp and golden on both sides. Drain and set aside. Once all he pastries are cooked, place the honey in a pan and slowly bring to the boil. Heat for about three minutes until the honey begins

to darken and then add the pastries tossing them in the honey until they are coated. Serve warm.

Pottage of Pastry and Milk

600ml whole milk 60ml water stale pastry, crumbled 2 tbsp honey Combine the milk and water in a pan. Gently bring to a boil then crumble in the pastry, stirring constantly. Add enough pastry to give you a thick, custard-like consistency. Continue cooking until the pastry has dissolved into the custard then take off the heat, stir in the honey and serve.

Stuffed dried figs

24 dried figs 12 walnut halves 1 cup honey (thyme-scented) 1 tbsp rosewater 6 sheets filo (optional) Soak the figs for 24 hours in a bowl with 3 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon rosewater, and enough warm water to cover.

The next day, remove the figs, drain, and stuff each one with half a walnut. Warm the remaining honey and stir into the liquid and pour over the stuffed figs. Serve warm or at room temperature. Variation: Drain the figs and pat dry. Cut each filo sheet into quarters. Wrap each stuffed fig in a piece of filo to form small rolls. Brush with olive oil or butter and bake in a hot oven for about 5 minutes or until the filo is golden. Warm the syrup and drizzle a small amount on the rolls and serve.

An aid to digestion

2 tbsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp ground ginger 1 tbsp fresh rue leaves (or rosemary) 2 plump dates, seeds removed and finely chipped 1 tbsp freshly-ground black pepper 135ml honey white wine vinegar

Pound the cumin seeds in a mortar. Add enough vinegar to just moisten then spread on foil and dry in the sun or in a cool over. Scrape off the cumin and mix with the ginger, rue leaves, chopped dates and black pepper in a mortar. Pound to a smooth paste then mix with the honey and store.

Spiced white Wine

500g honey 250ml white wine 1 tsp freshly-ground black pepper generous pinch of saffron 1 dried bayleaf, crushed 1 tsp cinnamon 2 dates 3.5l white wine Combine the wine and honey in a pan and heat until liquid, stirring constantly. In the meantime, soak the two dates in a little white wine until soft. Pour when very fluid, pour the honey mixture into a larger pan then drain the dates, chop very finely and stir these in along with the spices. Pour in the remaining white wine and stir to combine thoroughly. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for about 60 minutes over low heat, or until the volume has reduced by about half, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent the honey from burning. In the winter you can strain and serve the mulled wine warm.