chapter

27

KnitsStretch and Shrinkage Factors

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .627 STRETCH AND RECOVERY FACTOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . .627 Stretch Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .627 Recovery Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .627 Variance in Stretch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .627 STRETCH AND RECOVERY GAUGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .628 CLASSIFICATION OF KNIT FABRICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .629 DIRECTION OF STRETCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .629 ADAPTING PATTERNS TO KNITS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .630 The Shrinkage Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .630 The Stretch Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .631

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INTRODUCTION
Knits are some of the most popular fabrics in the market today, primarily for the following reasons: Structure: Knit fabrics are made of natural and synthetic fibers. Versatility: Knits are suitable for dressy, daytime, and activewear. Stretchability: Knits have the capacity to stretch in length, width, or both (in addition to the bias stretch common to all fabrics). Many manufacturers and designers devote part or all of their lines to knit designs. The patternmaker should be knowledgeable about the special characteristics of knits and their stretch and recovery factors so that a good fit can be achieved with few corrections. This is accomplished by modifying the pattern before cutting in knit. DuPont has launched a patented processSorona polymer (made from a petro chemical source and also from a renewable sourcecorn). The latest-patented process called Lycra 2.0-Xtra Life Lycra fiber was developed for swimwear. The composition is mainly of elastomer and other stretch fibers. Its key characteristics are: softness, stretch and recovery hand, stain resistance, crush resistance, quick and easy dyeing, fast drying, and resistance to chlorine and ultraviolet degradation.

STRETCH AND RECOVERY FACTOR

The ability of a knit fabric to stretch and return to its original shape (length and width) is referred to as the fabrics memory. (See the stretch and recovery gauge on page 628.)

Stretch Factor
The stretch factor is the amount of stretch per inch that occurs when the knit is stretched to its maximum length and width. The stretch factors of knits range from 18 to 100 percent or more.

Recovery Factor
The recovery factor is the degree to which a knit will return to its original shape after being stretched. Knits with good recovery are those that return to their original length and width when released. If the fabric does not return to its original dimension, or close to it, the garment will eventually sag on the body and lose some of its original shape.

Variance in Stretch
There is a variance in the degree of stretch among knits and the degree of stretch between the length and width of each knit. Knits that stretch in both directions are two-way stretch knits. If some of the stretch is not removed from garments made with a blended Lycra, the garment will sag on the figure. To remove stretch, the pattern is reduced in its length and width as designated by the stretch of the fabric. To determine the stretch of knits, use the stretch gauge on page 628. Buy the type of knit appropriate to the garments use.

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Chapter 27

STRETCH AND RECOVERY GAUGE

The ruler at the edge of the page is used to determine the stretch/recovery factor of knits. Suggestion: Copy the ruler, glue on cardboard, and take it with you when testing and buying knits. To use the stretch gauge ruler, follow the instructions.
LYCRA

1 2

1
3

Test Sample Lengt h

Fold of crosswise grain 5"

Determining the Stretch/Recovery Factor of Knits

Figure 1 Crosswise Grain Fold knit along crosswise grain. Pin-mark a space 5 inches wide. Place fold of the knit on the stretch gauge. Holding knit firmly at edge of the gauge, stretch without distorting the fabric. If distortion (parallel folds) appear, relax tension. Note the distance the knit stretched beyond its original length18, 25, 50, or 100 percent. Release the pulled end of the knit to determine its recovery factor. If the knit returns to its original location, it has excellent recovery.

6 7

This method is used for close-fitted and contour-type garments (bodysuit, leotard, swimwear) in which stretch is the most important factor. The original pattern is modified (reduced in length and width) to compensate for the stretch. Read the classification of knits on page 629.

Selvage

3
8

LYCRA 20% SCALE FOR MEASURING ELONGATION OF COVERED YARN OR ELASTI C FABRICS CONTAINING LYCRA

9 10 11 12 13

4 5

Fold of lengthwise grain 5"

14

40%

Figure 2 Lengthwise Grain Repeat process used for crosswise grain. Caution: If a knit does not have good recovery, 50 to 100 percent stretch factor in one or both directions, do not consider using it for a bodysuit, leotard, or maillot. It will sag rather than contour the body like a second skin.

15 16 17
60%

Selvage

18 19 20 21

80% 100%

Selvage

22

120%

ELONGAT

23

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CLASSIFICATION OF KNIT FABRICS

Knits come in many fibers: cotton, antron, and nylon, to name a few. When combined with Lycra spandex or Lastex latex, the fabric will vary in weight, texture, direction, and degree of stretch and shrinkage. Lycra (spandex) is a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85 percent of a segmented polyurethane. The DuPont Company introduced the first spandex fiber called Lycra in 1958. DuPont (the leader) has issued standards for Lycra spandex for activewear garments: Must have a minimum of 12.5 percent elongation Must withstand power of at least 0.6 pounds per square inch to ensure good recovery under wet and dry conditions. Must have zero pullback after 3,000 flex cycles. Must have a Lycra content of at least 0.6 ounces per square yard to ensure working stretch. Lycra spandex may be combined with antron, nylon, and cotton for swimwear, bodysuits, and leotards. Spandex has the ability to spring back to its original shape when stretched (referred to as its memory). After repeated stretching, it shows only a small increase in length. Lycra allows the body to move with complete freedom when in a flexed position:

is similar to that of a garment cut in a woven fabric. Example: double knit in any fiber. Moderate-stretch knits. A stretch factor of 25 percent on the crosswise grain (example: 5 inches stretches to 6 1/4 inches). Combines characteristics of both stable and stretchy knits. Generally used for sportswear when stretch is used for comfort and a close fit but should not be used for garments contouring the figure. Example: nylon tricot. Stretchy knits. A stretch factor of 50 percent on the crosswise grain with 18 to 50 percent on the straightgrain. (example: 5 inches will stretch to 7 1/2 inches). Because it is stretchy and light-weight, stretchy knit drapes well and is used for garments that contour the figure. This type of knit is suitable for bodysuits, leotards, maillots, and clinging dresses and tops (provided the knit has an excellent recovery factor). Example: cotton/spandex, nylon/ spandex, cotton/latex, nylon/latex, or any fabric containing spandex or latex. Super-stretch knit. A stretch factor of 100 percent in the lengthwise and crosswise grain (example: 5 inches stretches to 10 or more inches). Its excellent stretch and recovery make it suitable for bodysuits, leotards, and skiwear, as well as tops. The elastic fiber of this type of knit can stretch many times its length and yet return to its original measurements. Examples: Any fiber blended with spandex or latex. Rib knits. A stretch factor of 100 percent (1 1 ribs will stretch less than 2 2 or 3 2). Used for tops and banding (example: the knit two, purl two traditional wristband stitch). Rib knits are dependent on the knit pattern as well as on the fibers used.

Across the backflex movement from 13 to 16 percent Elbow Flex Length35 to 40 percent Circumference15 to 22 percent Seat flex: Across4 to 6 percent Knee Flex Length35 to 45 percent Circumference12 to 14 percent There are single-knit and double-knit fabrics; however, knits can generally be classified in the following ways: Stable (firm) knits. A stretch factor of 18 percent on the crosswise grain (example: 5 inches will stretch to 5 7/8 inches). This type of knit has a limited degree of stretch and will retain its original shape well. Fit

DIRECTION OF STRETCH
Knits can also be classified by the direction of stretch in the following ways: Warp stretch. Stretch yarns run lengthwise. Filling stretch. Stretch yarns run crosswise. Two-way stretch. Stretch yarns run in both the length and crosswise directions. To utilize the built-in stretch of knits, the maximum stretch should encircle the figure when knits are used for dresses, jackets, pants, and tops. The maximum stretch should go up and down the figure for bodysuits, leotards, jumpsuits, and skiwear to allow for maximum mobility. See Chapter 29, Activewear, and Chapter 30, Swimwear.

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Figure 1 Guideline C Guideline B A

ADAPTING PATTERNS TO KNITS

There are two reasons for adapting a pattern to knit fabrics: The shrinkage factor requires the size of the pattern to be enlarged, and the stretch factor requires the size of the pattern to be reduced. The choice is determined by the type of knit and the use of the garment. White (C) enlarged pattern. Shaded (B) original pattern. White (A) cloth pattern.

Guideline

TOP FRONT

Center front

The Shrinkage Factor

For loosely fitted garments, shrinkage is considered to be the most important factor. Therefore, the pattern is enlarged to compensate for shrinkage. To do this, the shrinkage factor must be known.

Guideline waist

Enlarging the Pattern

Figures 1, 2 Cut the garment parts. (The torso and sleeve are used as the example.) Wash and dry the fabric. Place the cloth pattern on top of the paper pattern. Place on paper, aligning the center line and waist of the torso and the grainline and biceps line of the sleeve. Pin to secure. (White area indicates the garment part [A], the shaded area indicates the original pattern [B], and the outside white area indicates the new enlarged pattern [C].) Enlarging the pattern for shrinkage: Draw guidelines out from the corners of the fabric pattern and working patterns. Measure the distances from the cloth pattern and the working pattern at each guideline. Use these measurements to mark the distances out from the working pattern at each location. Draw the new pattern by connecting lines from one mark to the next, blending curved lines. True the patterns when cut. Reducing the pattern for stretch: Trace the A patterns.
Note: Placement of garment parts on the pattern may look different from the illustrations, but the process for developing the enlarged pattern remains the same.

Guideline

Figure 2

C Guideline B A

Guideline

Guideline

Guideline

SLEEVE

Guideline

Guideline

Guideline

Guideline

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The Stretch Factor

Knits with varying stretch and recovery factors (firm knits and stretch knits) require different methods for reducing the pattern. Three methods are discussed.

all similar pattern modifications. (Broken lines indicate original patterns.) Figures 1, 2, 3, Bodice, Skirt, Pants Neckline: Raise 1/4 inch. Blend. The back neck is not adjusted unless the neckline is deeply cut. Side seams: Remove 1/4 inch (parallel with original line of the pattern). Repeat for the back. Remove 1/4 inch from the inseam of the pant. Armhole: Raise 1/2 inch. Blend. Repeat for the back. Dart points: Raise 1/4 inch where shown. Hemline and waistline: Remove 1/4 inch (parallel with the original hem or waist of the pattern). Crotch: Raise 1/4 to 1/2 inch (amount depends on style of the pant). Example: 1/2 inch for trouser, 1/4 inch for slack or jean. Repeat for the back.

Modifying the Pattern

To determine how much a patterns length and width should be reduced, follow the examples and measurements given for knits with a stretch factor from 18 to 25 percent. For knits stretching beyond 25 percent but less than 50 percent, add 1/8 inch to all measurements. The measurements are general and may require additional adjustments at the time of the fitting. Knits shrink when washed. Walk all seams and mark notches. The basic front bodice, skirt, sleeve, and pant are illustrated and should be used as guides for

Figure 1

Figure 3 1/4 " 1/4 " 1/4 "

Figure 4

1/2 " 1/4 "

BODICE FRONT

SKIRT 1/4 "

PANT FRONT New crotch level 1/2 " 1/4 "

1/4 "

1/4 " Figure 2 1/4 " 1/2 " 1/4 " New biceps level 1/2 " 1/4 "

1/4 "

1/4 "

Figure 2 Sleeve Biceps: Raise 1/2 inch. Blend. Underarm seam: Remove 1/4 inch (parallel with the original line of the pattern). Hem: Remove 1/4 inch (parallel with the original hemline of the pattern). Elbow dart: Reposition 1/4 inch up. Walk sleeve to armhole.

1/4 "