Project:

Stacking Wine
Rack
There’s no better place to store wine than in a wine
rack. Not only does it eliminate fumbling around in the
dark for the right bottle, but it also holds the bottles at
the correct angle, keeping the cork end low so the cork
remains moist.
Up to six rack units can be stacked safely with this
modular design. While the units are held together with
dowels, be sure not to drill holes in the bottom unit
bottom edges and top unit top edges.
We used a router and template to create the wine glass
motif on the ends, but you may want to choose another
design, or just leave the ends plain.
Stacking Wine Rack Materials List

Part Description Size Number Required

A End 3/4" x 9" x 9-7/8" 2 per rack
B Stretcher 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 16-1/4"* 4 per rack

Stacking Wine Rack Schematic

Stacking Wine Rack Instructions
Step 1: Cut theStretchers
1. Cut two boards measuring 3/4"x 6-1/2" x 16-1/4" for the four stretchers
(B) in each rack. NOTE: You will get two stretchers from each board.
2. Lay out four 3-/12" diameter circles on each board, 3-3/4" on center (see
Figure 1). NOTE: This layout will leave 1/4" between the circles and
3/4" on each end.
3. Use a 3-1/2" diameter hole saw or fly cutter in the drill press to cut out the
circles (see Figure 1).
4. Rip the stretcher board to create the two 2-1/2" wide stretcher parts (B).
5. Sand the circles with a drum sander mounted to the drill press.

Figure 1. Stretcher Board Circle Layout

Step 2: Cut the End Parts (A) According to the Specified Dimensions

Step 3: (Optional) Rout the Wine Glass Detail

1. Cut (see Figure 2) a piece of plywood 15-7/8" x 15" to make the wine glass
template (see Figure 3).

Figure 2. Cutting the Wine Glass Detail

2. Choose a size guide bushing to cut the wine glass profile. NOTE: The
actual template size (the outside template profile line in Figure 3) will
depend on which size guide bushing you choose, e.g., a 3/4" diam-
eter guide bushing with a 1/4" straight bit would mean having to
resize the template pattern 1/4" all around.
3. Mark the template plywood with the pattern in Figure 3, being sure to add
three inches to the end part (A) dimensions provided in the complete
schematic and being sure to add for the guide bushing size as noted in
the previous step.
4. Cut one piece of 3/4" x 3" x 15-7/8" stock and one piece 3/4" x 3" x 15"
stock to make the end part (A) holder (see Figure 2).
5. Glue or screw the two pieces of stock you just cut to the bottom of the
wine glass template plywood (see Figure 2).
6. Place the end part (A) in the template/holder fixture (see Figure 2).
 7. Clamp the end part (A) tightly in
the template/holder fixture by
using a notched block with slotted
screw holes (see Figure 2).
8. Clamp the complete fixture to the
workbench for routing.
9. Set the router depth to 1/8" plus
the template thickness. NOTE:
We found that it’s best to use
two depth settings with the
router to make the 1/8" deep
relief, with 1/16" being re-
moved each time.
10. Make the wine glass relief with the
router (see Figure 2).
11. Nip the end part (A) corners
according to the specified mea-
surements (see complete sche-
matic).

Figure 3. Wine Glass Template

Step 4: Cut the Mortises, Chamfer, and Dowel Holes

1. Create the stretcher (B) tenons by applying a 1/8" chamfer all around on
each stretcher (see complete schematic--tenons will each measure 1/2" x 1/
2" x 2-1/4").
2. Cut the mortises in the end parts (A) to accept the stretcher (B) tenons (see
complete schematic).
3. (Optional) Drill the 3/8" x 1/2" holes to accept the short lengths of dowel
that key the racks together if you plan on making more than one rack (see
complete schematic). NOTE: Be sure NOT to drill holes in the bottom
unit bottom edges and top unit top edges.
Step 5: Sand, Assemble, and Finish
1. Sand all parts.
2. Test assemble parts.
3. Make adjustments as necessary.
4. Sand again if necessary.
5. Glue parts and assemble.
6. (Optional) Use a fine brush and acrylic paint to color the wine glass relief.
Allow to dry.
7. Apply a coat of spray lacquer to the finished rack(s) to complete the project.

These plans were originally published in Volume 11, Issue 6 of The Woodworker’s
Journal (Nov./Dec. 1987, pages 57-59).