Window Type Air Conditioner NOTE: Before attempting any maintenance on your AC unit, power the unit off

and unplug it from the electrical receptacle. Check the air filter at least twice a month to see if cleaning is necessary. Trapped particles in the filter can build up and block the airflow that can reduce cooling capacity and cause an accumulation of frost on the evaporator. To clean the Air Filter:

Pull the inlet grille forward. Remove the air filter from the front grille by pulling the air filter up slighlty. Wash the filter using lukewarm water below 104F (40C). Gently shake away excess water from the filter, allow it to air dry, and reinstall the filter.

To ensure continued peak efficiency the evaporator coils (inside behind front grille) and condenser coils (outside of the unit) should be checked periodically and cleaned if they've become dirty or clogged with soot. Cleaning the coils:

Evaporator Coils: Remove the front grill, use a brush attachment with a vacuum cleaner to clean up any dust or debris that has made it past the air filter. If you are cleaning the coils after the air conditioner has already been running, put the unit in fan mode for about an hour in order to allow any condensed moisture on the evaporator coils to dry. Condenser Coils: If possible, use a brush attachment with a vacuum cleaner to remove any dirt or debris that has build up from the outside. If using the vacuum isn't an option, you can also use a hose pipe to clean the condensor coils. Remove any garden sprayer attachments and allow the water to flow directly from the end of the hose down over the coils to wash away dirt and debris.

NOTE: The fins are sharp so take care when cleaning them. Do NOT bend the fins. If this happens accidentally you can purchase a fin comb from a local hardware store. The fin comb can be used to straighten any bent fins. When it comes to keeping the case of the AC looking new and clean, just follow these simply guideliens.

Cleaning the Air Conditioner's Case:

The front grille and inlet grille may be wiped with a cloth dampened in a mild detergent solution. The cabinet may be washed with mild soap or detergent and lukewarm water.

Preventive Maintenance Checklist for Air Conditioning Systems Key Points

Air conditioning accounts for 15 percent of electrical use in commercial facilities. A regular preventive maintenance program can save on energy costs and extend equipment life. Clean and inspect equipment regularly following all manufacturers' recommendations. While cooling is essential for facility comfort and productivity, it accounts for nearly 15 percent of the electricity used in commercial buildings. Facilities can save on energy costs and increase equipment life by properly maintaining air conditioning systems. Use the following checklist to structure a preventive maintenance program for cooling equipment:

Refrigerant circuit and controls

Inspect the moisture liquid indicator to ensure that no moisture is in the system.

Check for and repair refrigerant and oil leaks around equipment seals, pipe joints, valves and other instrumentation. Inspect the liquid line leaving the strainer. Regularly check all gauges to ensure that design conditions are being met. Listen to the system operate for a few minutes to determine the cause of any unusual sounds. Inspect the tension and alignment of all belts and adjust as needed. Lubricate motor bearings and all moving parts. Inspect the insulation on suction and liquid lines and replace as necessary. Calibrate digital-based controls and check for software updates.

Compressor

Check for unusual compressor operation, including continuous running or frequent stopping and starting. Inspect the compressor and check amp draw. Listen to the compressor operate for a few minutes to check for unusual sounds. Check to see that the compressor and motor are securely fastened to the base. Check all compressor joints for leaks. Regularly inspect instrumentation to ensure that the oil pressure and temperature match manufacturer's specifications. Lubricate the compressor and its components to manufacturer's specifications.

Air-cooled condenser

Check the fan belt drive and motor to make sure they are properly aligned and lubricated. Ensure that refrigerant piping connections to the condenser coil are tight. Clean condenser coils, fins and tubes. Determine if hot air is being bypassed from the fan outlet to the coil inlet. Check for the proper temperature difference between the outside air and the condenser fan discharge air.

Evaporative condenser

Inspect piping joints and check for leaks. Check for dirt on the coil surface. Inspect the air inlet screen, spray nozzles, water distribution hoses and the pump screen. Check to see if the water supply leaves surface deposits on the coil. Follow manufacturer's guidelines for fan and pump maintenance.

Cooling towers

Conduct a chemical analysis to determine if solid concentrations are maintained at acceptable levels. Check the clearance of the overflow pipe from the normal operating water level. Listen to the fan and determine the cause of any unusual noise or vibration. Inspect the V-belt and the alignment of the fan and motor.

Ensure that the tower and intake strainer are clean. Determine if air is bypassed from the tower outlet back to the inlet. Inspect spray-filled and gravity distributed towers for proper nozzle performance; be sure the nozzles are clean. Inspect gravity distributed towers for even water depth in the distribution basins. Monitor the effectiveness of any water-treatment programs.

Chillers

Have all large tonnage chillers inspected once a year by a trained professional. Regularly check and change compressor oil and refrigerant filters. Monitor refrigerant charge. Test water quality and adjust as needed. Check purge operation in the case of low-pressure refrigerants. Keep water-side tubing clean and the refrigerant side free of non-condensable materials. Check drive alignment, wear, seating and operation.

Absorption equipment

Clean condenser and absorber tubes annually. Clean the strainer and seal tank regularly. Lubricate flow valves regularly. Replace the rubber diaphragms in the service valves every three to five years.

Self-contained units (window and through-the-wall units and heat pumps)

Clean evaporator and condenser coils, air intake louvers and filters. Keep airflow from units unrestricted. Replace worn caulking in openings between the units and windows or wall frames. Check the voltage to ensure that the unit is operating at full power. Follow applicable maintenance guidelines for compressors, condensers and fans. Check for proper operation of the heat pump's reversing valve.

Ductless mini splits perform an important function for homeowners who dont want to cool every room in the house with central air or who dont have the necessary ductwork. Preventive maintenance for ductless mini splits keeps them performing correctly. A mini split consists of a compact air handler in a single room, connected to an outdoor condenser coil unit via a conduit that conveys refrigerant through insulated pipes. Ductless mini splits can deliver greater efficiency than central A/C and are quieter and less obtrusive than window units all without the expense and maintenance of ductwork. They utilize straightforward heat pump components and have the service life and dependability associated with that technology. Some preventive maintenance for ductless mini splits falls under the DIY category; other maintenance requires a qualified HVAC technician. Heres a rundown of each: Homeowner maintenance 1. Change the primary filter every two months. If the unit is equipped with a plasma Indoor Air Quality filter, clean it when the reminder light illuminates. 2. Vacuum dust from the indoor evaporator coil and wipe away dirt buildup. Leave heavier, stubborn dirt deposits or mold accumulation for a professional cleaning.

3. Clean the condensate drain pan drain and verify that the drain is open. If theres evidence of mold or algae growth, let an HVAC technician handle it. 4. Cut weeds or other encroaching vegetation from around the outdoor condenser to allow two feet of free space on all sides for airflow. Professional maintenance 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Inspect and clean the evaporator coil. Check the balance of the blower and fan wheel and verify sufficient airflow. Inspect the condensate drain system for algae and treat with algaecide if necessary. Check the refrigerant charge and top up as necessary. If the level is significantly low, perform leak detection procedures. Clean the condenser coil and clear out debris such as grass clippings and leaves. Verify electrical connections at the outdoor unit and weatherproof with non-conductive coating. Lubricate the condenser fan and adjust belt tension if required. Check thermostat operation and calibrate if necessary.

Window air conditioners are very simple appliances. They operate on the exact same principles as a refrigerator, freezer, or dehumidifier. Please look for information on how window air conditioners work in these areas: Cooling All residential window air conditioners have a cooling system made up of four primary components, a compressor, an evaporator, a metering device, and a condenser. Air conditioner cooling systems are better understood if you think of them as devices that remove warmth from the air rather than cooling the air.

Blower fan When the unit is running, the circulating fan and compressor are running simultaneously. The fan motor has two fan blades attached to it on either end. The fan blade on the inside part of the unit continually draws room air over the evaporator coils, which are cold. The fan blade on the outside part of the unit continually draws fresh outside air over the condenser coils, which are warm. Because the evaporator coils are cold, they cause moisture in the room to collect on them, much like a cup of ice water on a warm, humid day. When the amount of moisture increases, it begins to drip down off of the coils into the bottom pan of the air conditioner. Thermostat control The thermostat on a window air conditioner works by sensing the air temperature entering the air conditioner. As the air entering the unit reaches the set temperature it will cause the compressor to turn off. The blower may continue to run depending on the selection chosen on the control panel. Digital thermostats work on a similar principle but display a more precise temperature. Selector switches The air conditioner selector switches allow the user to choose the fan speed. The compressor always runs at the same speed regardless of the settings. If low cool is chosen, for example, the fan runs at a slower speed but the compressor still offers the same cooling capacity. There are other switches to control louver operation and other features on some units.

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR AIR CONDITIONER? It doesn't turn on at all Check to see if there is power getting to the air conditioner. If it is a 110-volt unit, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the air conditioner is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If there's still no power, you will need to contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet. If there is power to the appliance but it is still completely dead there may be a problem in one or more of the following areas:

Wiring (Inspect for any broken or burnt wiring) Thermostat Compressor Overload and/or relay Selector switch Control board

Work on these areas of an appliance may require help from an appliance repair person or other qualified technician. The fan runs but there's no cold air? Is the air conditioner completely dead? See section 1. Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? Is the compressor motor running? The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It is located inside the air conditioner at the center. Is it humming or making any kind of continuous noise or causing the lights to dim? If it is making a continuous noise, and your air conditioner is still not cooling at all, there may be a serious problem with one or more of these areas:

Compressor Condenser Evaporator

These items are not user serviceable. You will need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician to repair these components. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the air conditioner there may be a problem in one or more of these areas:

Compressor Overload and/or relay Thermostat (Open thermostat) Burnt wiring Bad selector switch Capacitor

The air is cool but doesn't seem cold enough If the air doesn't seem cool enough it is necessary to use a thermometer to check the difference in temperature between the air going into the unit and the air being blown into the room. Ideally, the temperature difference should be more than 15 degrees. For example, if the temperature going into the air conditioner is 80 degrees, the temperature coming out of the unit should be at least 65 degrees or less. If the difference is 15 degrees or more there is probably no cause for concern. If the temperature difference is less than 15 degrees you should check the following:

Air damper Check to make sure the air damper is closed. If it's open, it

will bring in outside air and reduce the efficiency of the unit. Back cover During the winter season many people cover their air conditioners to protect the unit from the weather. In the spring or summer they will sometimes forget to remove the cover. If your unit has a cover on the outside portion of the air conditioner remove the cover first. Condensing coils The condensing coils will always be on the "warm" side of the air conditioner. That is, on the side that faces outside of the room to be cooled. Air is drawn into the back of the air conditioner on the sides through vent slots and is blown directly out through the condenser coils. If the coils get clogged with lint, dust and dirt the cooling system cannot provide the cooling necessary. To clean the coils it will be necessary to remove the entire cover of the air conditioner or pull it out of the wall to gain access to the coils. They can be cleaned by blowing compressed air at them or by using a soft bristle brush to wipe the dirt off. It is important to also clean any dirt or lint build-up in the bottom of the air conditioner so the condensate water will be picked up by the condensing fan slinger properly.

The unit never turns off This is normal on some models when fan is set to run constantly. If the unit is supposed to turn off and it doesn't, it will be necessary to check several things.

First, is the unit cooling properly? See the section entitled "The air is cool but doesn't seem cold enough."

Next, is the temperature of the room adequately cool? If the room temperature is cold enough try setting the thermostat to a higher temperature. If the unit then seems to work properly leave the thermostat set to the higher temperature. If the unit is cooling properly when it is turned on and the room is not cool enough the problem is probably that the unit is trying to cool an area that is too large for its capacity. Use the following chart to find the appropriate size air conditioner to use: AREA TO BE COOLED / CAPACITY (BTU/HR) 100 to 150 square feet = 5,000 150 to 250 square feet = 6,000 250 to 300 square feet = 7,000 300 to 350 square feet = 8,000 350 to 400 square feet = 9,000 400 to 450 square feet = 10,000 450 to 550 square feet = 12,000 550 to 700 square feet = 14,000 700 to 1000 square feet = 18,000 If the room is heavily shaded, reduce needed capacity by 10% If the room receives a lot of direct sun, increase needed capacity by 10% Add 600 Btu/Hr for each person in the room if there are more than two people If the unit is for a kitchen, increase the capacity by 4,000-

6,000 Btu/Hr. If the room size is too big for the air conditioner you have two possible choices. Either decrease the room size by shutting some doors or partitioning off an area of the room. Or, increase the BTU of the air conditioner for that room by installing a different air conditioner with a higher BTU rating. There is water sloshing around inside All window air conditioners will remove moisture from the air if there is any. Most window air conditioners collect this moisture in the bottom pan of the air conditioner and attempt to evaporate the moisture. The evaporation process works as follows: First, the water drips down off of the cold evaporator coils on the front of the unit. Then the water collects in the bottom of the air conditioner base, the "pan." If the air conditioner is installed properly it will be tilted slightly back. The water then collects near the back of the unit. On some units, the fan blade used to cool the rear condensing coils will have a rim on the outside of the fins of the blade. This rim, or "slinger," will come close to touching the inside of the air conditioner pan when the fan is spinning. As the water collects in the pan and reaches the depth necessary for the fan ring to touch it, the ring will lift some of the water up and the fan will blow it at the condensing coils. Because the coils are warm, they will evaporate the moisture to the outside. While this is happening it is normal to hear water splashing and sloshing around. As long as there is no water leaking inside the room that is being cooled there is no cause for concern.

Never drill into the bottom of and air conditioning unit to "let the water out." The unit tries to start for a few seconds and then quits Every air conditioner has a motor called a compressor. The compressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner. If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective the compressor may try to start, fail, and create an electrical overload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressor circuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. The safety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for a certain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it will allow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If the compressor then starts, the unit should function normally. If the compressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overload will again cut the electricity to the compressor. This cycle will continue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes before restarting the compressor.) If this situation is occurring, unplug the air conditioner and get help from a qualified repair technician. This problem is often fatal to the air conditioner because the cost of repair often exceeds the price of a new air conditioner. A motor is running but there is no air blowing Every air conditioner is equipped with at least two motors, the compressor and the fan motor. It is possible for the fan motor to be defective and the compressor to be running. If this is the case the unit will appear to be running and may even sound "normal" but no air is blowing out the front or back of the unit. If, after removing the cover of the unit you discover the fan blade is very

stiff and difficult to rotate, the fan motor should be replaced. If the fan blade turns freely the circuit powering the fan motor will require electrical troubleshooting. It will be necessary to have a qualified technician locate the cause of the problem, which may be either a problem with the capacitor, the selector switch or the motor itself. The unit rattles loudly when it turns off The compressor in all window air conditioners is a powerful motor. When it starts up - and especially when it shuts off - the whole air conditioner can shake, sometimes loudly. Usually there is nothing that can be done to correct this problem. However, it is possible that the compressor mounting pads and brackets are worn out or missing. If that is the case the pads and brackets can sometimes be ordered and replaced. Be sure that the air conditioner is securely mounted in the window frame if the unit shakes at all. It is possible for the unit to shake free of the frame if not installed properly. Water leaks out the front of the unit It is normal for water to collect in the lower base of an air conditioner. See the section entitled: "There is water sloshing around inside." If water leaks out the front it is usually because the unit is tilted forward in the window frame. All air conditioners should be installed so they tilt slightly back to allow for proper removal of the condensation collected. The air smells musty Air conditioners remove moisture from the air. The water collects in the base of the unit. Under normal conditions this water will be evaporated out of the unit. However, it is possible

for some water to sit stagnant in the base of the air conditioner for extended periods of time. There is no easy way to prevent this problem. The problem will be reduced if you carefully clean the base of the inside of the air conditioner at least once a year. That will keep any dirt, lint or dust from absorbing the water and allowing mold and mildew to grow. Also, replace the filter behind or in the front cover.

MAINTENANCE TIPS FOR YOUR AIR CONDITIONER Replace/clean filter every month Air conditioners are outfitted with a simple electrostatic filter in the front grill area to filter the air that passes through them. If your unit has a filter you should replace/clean it once a month during the cooling season. You can purchase Electrostatic filter cut-to-fit material from our site. Inspect cooling coils for frost or ice build up If the temperature outside the room where the air conditioner is placed becomes cool, approximately 60 degrees Fahrenheit or lower, check the coils on the front of the air conditioner to be sure they are not icing up. If they are icing up, turn the air conditioner off until the temperature rises. Also, make sure the filter is clean. Don't short cycle the cooling system Air conditioners have a cooling system identical to a refrigerator's. It is important not to turn the unit off and then back on right away. Wait at least ten minutes after shutting the unit off to allow the pressure in the refrigeration system to

equalize once again. This will prolong the life of your air conditioner. Store the unit in a basement or utility room, not a garage Mice and other small animals love to nest in air conditioners. If they do they can cause serious damage to the unit by chewing on wiring and insulation. Also, wasps and birds like to nest in uncovered units left in windows. Avoid these problems by storing the units in a protected area, away from small animals, or by installing a cover on the part of the air conditioner that sticks outside. Clean condenser coils annually The condensing coils on an air conditioner will get very dirty over time. However, the dirt tends to accumulate on the inside of the coils, out of site. It will be necessary to remove the entire cover of the air conditioner to gain access to the coils. They can be cleaned by blowing compressed air at them or by using a soft bristle brush to wipe the dirt off. It is important to also clean any dirt or lint build-up in the bottom of the air conditioner so the condensate water will be picked up by the condensing fan slinger properly. Preventive Maintenance for portable or window air conditioners Scotty HVAC Oracle 2005-08-06 Portable or window air conditioners are an excellent choice for cooling a single room or and area where ducting cannot be used.

Regularly is still required for best performance from these small units. The evaporator coil on the cool side should have a thin foam filters covering the face of the coil. The Filter should be removed and cleaned regularly. Once a month should be sufficient. These filters do not hold dirt well; if they are allowed to get dirty the dirt will pass through to the evaporator where it is harder to remove. If the coil face has become dirty, brush the coil face off with a soft nylon brush. Dirt allowed to build on the coil will become trapped between the fins and reduce the air. This will reduce the cooling capacity and can cause the coil to freeze. On the other side, the condenser coil has no filters; it can get very dirty depending on the environment that it is running in. Flush out the coil with water at the start of each season, before it is installed. This will help to prevent the unit from overheating on the hottest days of the year when you need it the most. The dirt builds on the air inlet side of the coil, which normally cannot be seen. If you want to see how dirty the coil is you have to remove the outer cover to see the air inlet side of the coil. Remove the screws spread out along the sides of the air conditioner, and lift the cover. With a flash light look at the air inlet side of the condenser coil, through the fan blade. By spraying water from the outside of the coil with hose or pressure water you can push the dirt back out through the coil. If using a pressure washer is used, spray straight onto the fins and stay at least 12 inches away. A pressure washer can flatten the fins very quickly is you get to close. When cleaning, be careful not to spray water directly onto the motor or electrical compartment.

Use a plastic bag to cover up any vent holes on the fan motor. Allow the unit to dry out for several hours before installing and plugging the unit in. Place the unit on an angle to allow the water to drain back to rear. Any water left in the bottom of the tray is going to spill directly down the front of your shirt when you pick up the AC. Depending on the size of the unit, there will be 1 or 2 fan motors. Most of the small units use a single multi speed doubleshafted fan motor for both the condenser fan and evaporator fan wheel. Give the wheel a spin, does it feel tight or does it spin freely. Does the shaft move vertically? Any vertical movement, up and down, indicates worn bearings. If the bearings are tight or there is movement, use a little extra oil to loosen the bearing up. The fan may run still and be noisy, but it will quit. With the price of new portable AC so low and labor being expensive you are better of to replace the whole unit then trying to change the fan motor. Functional replacement motors are available for most units if you want to try and change it. Look at the ends of the motor for oil ports. If there are no oil ports then the motor has sealed bearings and cannot be lubricated. If there are oil ports add a few drops of SAE 20-, which is lightweight electric motor oil with no detergent added. The recommend oil amounts are normally on the motor nameplate, if you can read them. Look around the outside of the fan blades is a slinger, which is used to throw the condensed water from the evaporator coil up onto the condenser coil. This help to eliminate the condensate water and provide additional cooling to the condenser coil. This slinger sits very close to the edge of the fan shroud, even a slight misalignment will cause this to rub and make the unit noisy. With the top casing remove the unit can shift a little and cause

the fan wheel to rub the edge, make sure the unit is sitting on a flat surface and well supported. The electrical wiring on the unit should be inspected for any signs of burning or over heating. Check the tightness of all the electrical connections, any loose connection will overheat and burn, which can cause the fan or compressor to fail. Remove the retaining clip on the compressor terminal cover. The gasket under the cover keeps moisture out of the terminal connections. The compressor can sweat when operating and the moisture can drip down into the terminal connections and cause corrosion. The molded electrical plug of the unit is a common area for electrical problems. If the forks are loose or discolored, replace the plug. After the unit is installed and operating and on a hot day, check the temperature of the plug and wall receptacle. If it feels very warm then there is a connection problem or a low voltage. This can be a serious fire hazard There should be a vent flapper near the discharge of the fan. This should have a cable attached to open and close the vent. The vent when open will exhaust air to the outside, this helps to keep the air fresh in the room. The air expelled by the AC will be drawn in elsewhere through air leakage in the room, eventually exchanging the total volume of the room. When replacing the casing on the unit use extra caution around the condenser coil. The screws near the condenser may be shorter than the other. If the screw is too long you can puncture the condenser coil and release the refrigerant. Give the fan wheel a spin to make sure it is rotating freely. If you hear it rubbing, take the case off and check the position of the condenser coil and the fan wheel again. Adjust as required.

After the units has dried out, plug the unit in while still on the workbench to give it a test run. The work area must be above 70%F else the thermostat may not make to start the unit. First run the fan only and check all speeds- Does the motor sound quite- is the fan rubbing on anything at high speed or low speed? Next turn the compressor on by lowering the thermostat or switch to cool mode. Listen to the compressor start. Does it start right away or does it hum then start or does it talk more then a 2 seconds to come up to speed? The compressor should start right away and sound smooth. A slow start may indicate bearing wear I the compressor or low voltage. Low voltage can be cause by using an under sized extension cord. If you are using an extension cord make sure it is a minimum #14 gauge wire and less then 50 feet long. If the compressor is loud or have a rattle, this may indicate worn valves and reduced pumping capacity. If you are running the unit without the faceplate, air can short cycle from the discharge back into the intake of the evaporator. Place a piece of cardboard to deflect the air up and it does get sucked back into the unit. With a good thermometer measure the air discharge temperature. It should be ~15%F less then the room temperature. This varies depending on what fan speed you are using. The higher the fan speed the lower the TD, at low speed the TD will be higher 20%F or higher. A TD of 10%F or less indicates a problem. This could a low refrigerant charge, overcharged, weak compressor, high head pressure or a clogged capillary tube. If all has checked out then your AC is now good to go, install the unit in the window or sleeve opening. Make sure the unit is secured in the window and has a slight slope to the back to allow

for drainage. Wall mounted and window mounted units have a different configuration. The window mount units are design to sit in thin profile of the window. If used an opening cut into a outside wall, the condenser air intake will be partially blocked. Cutting off air to the condenser, which will causes the unit to run hot. This reduces the amount of cooling, increase the energy use and on a really hot day, the compressor will quit or the breaker will trip. After the AC has run for an hour, check that unit is draining out the back or the water is collecting in the condenser fan area. You should be able to hear the water in the condenser fan. Remember to periodically check for the water is draining out the back and feel the electrical plug and receptacle area for heat build on the really hot days. Do not run the AC when it is cool outside, especially on cool clear nights when the outdoor temperature can really drop. This often causes freezing of the evaporator coil. Pull the filter out once every 4 weeks and rinse it out with water. That's it, the unit should be good for the season.

9.

Keeping your coolno matter how hot it gets. BY STEVE TOTH Summer's here and your room air conditioner is laboring hard. You can help the appliance work more efficiently through the months ahead by following a simple maintenance program, and you might even save a little money on your utility bill. Effectively keeping up some appliances -high-efficiency gas or oil furnaces, for example--requires a technician. Fortunately, a basic room air conditioner can be maintained by a homeowner who has only a few hand tools and a shop vacuum. To begin, unplug the air conditioner and remove the front grille and filter (Figs. 1 and 2). The filter traps pollen, dust and dirt, and if it's clogged, you won't get maximum cooling performance. Wash it with a mixture

of warm water and soap. If the filter has deteriorated, replace it. Your local appliance store, hardware store or home center may be able to supply you with the exact size and type of replacement part you need. If not, several manufacturers make filters that can adapt to many brands of air conditioners. These are cut to fit with a pair of scissors. One source for such filters is the General Electric Consumer hotline: (800) 626-2000. A cut-to-fit GE filter costs $8.05 with shipping (state tax is extra). Remove the air conditioner from the window and clear away any accumulated debris from the windowsill. Take the appliance out of its cabinet. (Some will slide out of the cabinet, but on most, the cabinet is held in place with screws.) Remove the screws and put them aside (Fig. 3). Then, use a shop vacuum and crevice tool to get

rid of leaves and debris from within the air conditioner (Fig. 4). To clean the inside (Fig. 5), bring the appliance outdoors and use a paintbrush and some soapy water. Put plastic bags over the fan motor, electrical control box and compressor. Secure the plastic with duct tape. Hose the inside clean (Fig. 6), and make sure the base, coils and pan for condensate are clean as well. When you've finished, remove the plastic bags and dry off the air conditioner with a fresh cloth. Allow the remaining moisture to evaporate, or you can accelerate the drying process by blowing out moisture with a can of compressed air. Single-use cans of compressed air are available through tool catalogs and some hardware stores. You can also try using a rechargeable air tank, which

is sold at hardware stores, home centers and auto parts stores. When the appliance is dry, reassemble and reinstall it in the window, following the general guidelines mentioned below. It's a good idea to allow the air conditioner to remain idle for one full day--just to be sure that the machine is thoroughly dry before you begin running it. Reinstallation Now that the maintenance of your air conditioner is complete, it's time to start thinking about ways of getting maximum performance and durability out of the appliance. Many people mistakenly believe that air conditioners need to be pitched down, slightly out of level, to help them drain condensate. Actually, the exact opposite is true. An air conditioner should be installed

so it's level. These appliances are designed so that condensate collects below the fan and runs into the slinger ring, which is made of sheetmetal and is part of the fan assembly. The bottom of the ring acts like a gutter to collect condensate. The fan then picks the water out of the ring and slings it against the condenser coils. Recycling the condensate in this manner increases the coils' cooling capacity. Check the air conditioner for level -- front to back and side to side -- when you install the unit. If the appliance's side panels are cracked, now is the time to replace them. In some cases, you can get a single side panel from an appliance store (each side costs about $15 to $30), or you may have to buy both sides - and the guides that they run in. Some people opt not to replace the side panels when they wear out. Instead, they remove

the panels and screw clear plastic sheet (Plexiglas, for example) over the runners. This also lets in a little extra daylight. Take steps to seal the area where the window closes on top of the air conditioner. In many instances, the foam strip that came with the appliance will have worn out. The gap left by an improper seal is energy inefficient, not to mention an entryway for bugs. Appliance stores sell kits called Air Conditioner Window Foam. These are nothing more than bags with foam strips that have peel-and-stick backing. If you can't find one of these kits, you may substitute adhesive-backed weatherstripping. Weatherstripping can also be used as a vibration damper when a storm window or screen rests on the top of the appliance. If your air conditioner is installed in a vinyl replacement window, think about using a

wood reinforcement strip below the appliance to distribute its weight. An air conditioner is heavy enough to distort some vinyl replacement windows. Also, consider screwing L-brackets into the window channel rather than letting the unit rest against the window sash. Again, the brackets bear the weight of the air conditioner -- not the replacement sash. If you have a problem with birds building nests under the air conditioner, install a thin, exterior-grade strip of plywood or a piece of painted solid wood to block their entry. Operation Tips Finally, there are things you can do to help reduce the heat load on your air conditioner. One sounds obvious, but it's often overlooked: Draw blinds or drapes on the sunny side of the house to block out the Sun's rays. In hot, sunny climates, awnings

can also substantially reduce heat gain. Further, keep the garage door shut and close all the windows in the house. Along similar lines, the same kinds of weatherstripping that prevent heat loss in the winter also prevent heat gain in the summer. Properly weatherstripped doors and windows, combined with attic insulation, are your best defense against wasted energy. And don't overlook ventilation. Attic, ridge and soffit vents should be cleared of bird and insect nests so that attic heat can escape. Winterizing your air conditioner at the end of the season is simple. If you leave it in the window, wrap it with plastic sealed with duct tape, or buy an air-conditioner cover. With stay-in-place machines, also remember to close the vents. If you take the appliance out of the window, be careful not to bend or damage the cooling fins on the back of it.

And don't store an air conditioner on a garage floor, where it could come into contact with corrosive de-icing salts that can drip off of a car's tires.

How to Troubleshoot a Window Unit

Room air conditioners, also called window units, work the same way central air conditioners do. They are smaller than central systems and often more expensive to operate. Depending on its size, a room unit may cool only the room in which it's located, or it may be able to cool adjoining rooms as well. Sandwiched between the coils are a compressor, two fans, a motor, and thermostat controls. Dirt is the biggest enemy of window air conditioners; it can lower the efficiency of the evaporator coil, block the operation of the fan that blows out the cool air, clog filters, and block drain ports. The coils, the compressor, and the motor of a room air conditioner are sealed components, so any repairs to them should be left to a professional service person. However, you can make minor repairs, and regular maintenance will keep your unit running well. When extensive repairs are needed, you can also save the cost of a service call by removing the air conditioner from its mounting and taking it to the repair shop. During the winter, room air conditioners should be protected from the elements. Either remove the unit from its mounting and store it or cover the outside portion of the unit with a commercial room air conditioner cover or with heavy plastic sheeting, held in place with duct tape. Caution: Before doing any work on a room air conditioner, make sure it's unplugged. Room air conditioners have either one or two capacitors, located behind the control panel and near the fan. Capacitors store electricity, even when the power to the unit is turned off. Before you do any work on an air conditioner, unplug it and discharge the capacitor or you could receive a severe shock. The unit's owner's manual will show the location of capacitors and tell how to discharge them. Otherwise, let an air conditioning technician do it. Maintaining Key Components The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports, and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid larger problems. Below are guidelines on how to maintain these key parts.

Filter At the beginning of every cooling season and once a month during the season, remove the front grille and clean or replace the filter. If you live in a very dusty area, clean or replace the filter more often. Most room air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like sponge rubber. Clean the filter with a solution of mild household detergent and water; rinse well. Let the filter dry completely before reinstalling it. Some units have a throwaway filter, similar to a furnace filter. When this type of filter becomes dirty, replace it with a new one of the same type. Power Cord The power cord that connects the air conditioner to the wall outlet may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the unit. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires. Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs of the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord. Evaporator and Condenser Coils Clean the evaporator and condenser coils at the beginning of the cooling season and every month during the season. If you live in a very dusty area, clean the coils more often. Use a vacuum cleaner on these components. If the fins on the coils are bent, straighten them with a fin comb, sold at most appliance parts outlets. A fin comb is designed to slide into the spaces between the fins. Use it carefully as the fins are made of lightgauge aluminum and are easily damaged. Switch The selector switch, located directly behind the control panel, turns the unit on. If the air conditioner does not run at any setting, and it is receiving power, chances are the switch is faulty. To correct the problem, remove the control panel and locate the switch. Check the switch terminals for burnt insulation or burn marks on the terminals. If you see any indication of burning, replace the switch with a new one of the same type. The switch is held to the control panel or frame with screws; unscrew it and connect the new one the same way. If you determine the problem may not be the switch, call a professional service person. Maintaining the thermostat and drain ports on your home air-conditioning window unit is vital to keep the whole system working properly. It won't be a difficult or burdensome task if you folllow the guidelines mentioned below.

Cleaning the Evaporator

The evaporator for the central air system is located directly above the furnace in the plenum. The evaporator may not be accessible, but if it is, you should clean it once a year. If the plenum has foilwrapped insulation at its front, you can clean the evaporator; if the plenum is a sealed sheet metal box, do not attempt to open it. Here's how to clean an accessible evaporator:

Step 1: Remove foil-wrapped insulation at front of plenum; it's probably taped in place. Remove tape carefully, because you'll have to replace it later. Behind insulation is access plate, which is held in place by several screws. Remove screws and lift off plate. Step 2: Clean entire underside of evaporator unit with stiff brush. A large hand mirror can help you see what you're doing. If you can't reach all the way back to clean entire area, slide evaporator out a little. Evaporator can be slid out even if it has rigid pipes connected to it, but be careful not to bend pipes. Step 3: Clean tray below evaporator unit. This tray carries condensation away from evaporator. Pour 1 tablespoon of household bleach into weep hole in tray to prevent fungus growth. In extremely humid weather, check condensate drain and pan every other day. If there's much moisture in pan, weep hole from pan to drain line may be clogged. Open weep hole with piece of wire. Step 4: Put unit back into place, reinstall plate, and tape insulation back over it. Step 5: Turn back on air conditioner, and check for air leaks. Seal any leaks with duct tape.
Print Cite Feedback

Maintaining the Condenser

In most air-conditioning systems, the condenser unit is located outside the house and is prone to accumulate dirt and debris from trees, lawn mowing, and airborne dust. The condenser has a fan that moves air across the condenser coil. You must clean the coil on the intake side, so, before you turn off the power to the air conditioner, check to see which direction the air moves across the coils. Here's how to clean the condenser: Step 1: Cut down any grass, weeds, or vines that have grown around condenser unit; they could be obstructing airflow. Step 2: Clean condenser with commercial coil cleaner, available at refrigerator supply stores. Instructions for use are included. Flush coil clean (do not use hose); let dry. Step 3: Clean fins with soft brush to remove accumulated dirt. You may have to remove protective grille to reach them. Do not clean fins with garden hose, as water could turn dirt into mud and compact it between fins. Clean fins very carefully: They're made of light-gauge aluminum and are easily damaged. If fins are bent, straighten them with fin comb, sold at most appliance parts stores. A fin comb is designed to slide into spaces between fins. Use it carefully to avoid damaging fins. Step 4: Check concrete pad on which condenser rests to make sure it's level. Set carpenters' level front to back and side to side on top of unit. If pad has settled, lift pad with pry bar or piece of 2-by-4, then force gravel or rocks under concrete to level it.

During the fall and winter, outside condenser units should be protected from the elements to prevent leaf blockage and ice damage. Cover the condenser unit with a commercial condenser cover made to fit the shape of the unit or use heavy plastic sheeting secured with sturdy cord.

How to Troubleshoot a Window Unit

Room air conditioners, also called window units, work the same way central air conditioners do. They are smaller than central systems and often more expensive to operate. Depending on its size, a room unit may cool only the room in which it's located, or it may be able to cool adjoining rooms as well. Sandwiched between the coils are a compressor, two fans, a motor, and thermostat controls. Dirt is the biggest enemy of window air conditioners; it can lower the efficiency of the evaporator coil, block the operation of the fan that blows out the cool air, clog filters, and block drain ports. The coils, the compressor, and the motor of a room air conditioner are sealed components, so any repairs to them should be left to a professional service person. However, you can make minor repairs, and regular maintenance will keep your unit running well. When extensive repairs are needed, you can also save the cost of a service call by removing the air conditioner from its mounting and taking it to the repair shop. During the winter, room air conditioners should be protected from the elements. Either remove the unit from its mounting and store it or cover the outside portion of the unit with a commercial room air conditioner cover or with heavy plastic sheeting, held in place with duct tape. Caution: Before doing any work on a room air conditioner, make sure it's unplugged. Room air conditioners have either one or two capacitors, located behind the control panel and near the fan. Capacitors store electricity, even when the power to the unit is turned off. Before you do any work on an air conditioner, unplug it and discharge the capacitor or you could receive a severe shock. The unit's owner's manual will show the location of capacitors and tell how to discharge them. Otherwise, let an air conditioning technician do it. Maintaining Key Components The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports, and fan are important to service on a routine basis to avoid larger problems. Below are guidelines on how to maintain these key parts. Filter At the beginning of every cooling season and once a month during the season, remove the front grille and clean or replace the filter. If you live in a very dusty area, clean or replace the filter more often. Most room air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like sponge rubber. Clean the filter with a solution of mild household detergent and water; rinse well. Let the filter dry completely before reinstalling it. Some units have a throwaway filter, similar to a furnace filter. When this type of filter becomes dirty, replace it with a new one of the same type. Power Cord

The power cord that connects the air conditioner to the wall outlet may become worn and fail to supply electricity to the unit. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire across the bare lead wires. Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs of the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord. Evaporator and Condenser Coils Clean the evaporator and condenser coils at the beginning of the cooling season and every month during the season. If you live in a very dusty area, clean the coils more often. Use a vacuum cleaner on these components. If the fins on the coils are bent, straighten them with a fin comb, sold at most appliance parts outlets. A fin comb is designed to slide into the spaces between the fins. Use it carefully as the fins are made of lightgauge aluminum and are easily damaged. Switch The selector switch, located directly behind the control panel, turns the unit on. If the air conditioner does not run at any setting, and it is receiving power, chances are the switch is faulty. To correct the problem, remove the control panel and locate the switch. Check the switch terminals for burnt insulation or burn marks on the terminals. If you see any indication of burning, replace the switch with a new one of the same type. The switch is held to the control panel or frame with screws; unscrew it and connect the new one the same way. If you determine the problem may not be the switch, call a professional service person. Maintaining the thermostat and drain ports on your home air-conditioning window unit is vital to keep the whole system working properly. It won't be a difficult or burdensome task if you folllow the guidelines mentioned below.

Fan
When a fan malfunctions, the problem is usually loose or dirty blades. If the fan won't operate or if it's noisy, cleaning and tightening will usually fix it. Here's how to repair a room air conditioner's fan: Step 1: Open cabinet and locate fan. Step 2: Clean away any debris with vacuum and soft cloth. Step 3: Check fan blade on motor shaft for looseness. Blade is fastened to shaft with setscrew at hub of blade. Tighten setscrew with screwdriver or Allen wrench. If air conditioner has round vent fan, tighten fan on motor shaft by inserting long-blade screwdriver through port in fan. Fan is installed in its housing with bolts, and vibration can loosen these fasteners. Then tighten them with wrench.

Step 4: If fan has oil ports, apply several drops of 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) to each port at beginning of cooling season. Step 5: If you suspect fan motor is faulty, test it with VOM set to RX1 scale. Disconnect terminal wires from terminals, and clip probes of VOM to wires. If meter reads between about 3 and 30 ohms, motor is functioning properly. If meter reads either zero or an extremely high number, replace motor. To remove the fan motor, remove the fan, the power wires, and several mounting bolts. Install the new motor with the reverse procedure. However, if the condenser coil must be moved to get the fan out, do not try to remove the motor. Call a professional service person. Motor and Compressor If problems occur in the motor or compressor of the air conditioner, call a professional service person. By following the routine maintenance mentioned in this article, you will be able to handle most problems that occur with your central air conditioning or window unit.