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No. 21
Veronique Branquinho
Alexander Wang
MSGM
TOBE
RUNWAY SPRING 2014-15
REPORT
V OLUME X 2013
Bottega Veneta
We hope youve noticed this year of transformation for Tobe. We take seriously our heritage as a top executive read and have given thoughtful consideration to where our industry is going, how the consumer is evolving and what key strategies need to be examined to be a winner in the eyes of the customer. During this last year weve stepped back and cast a fresh eye on large topics to put forth smart thought-leadership in areas such as Seasonality, The Creative Economy, Customer Care and Branding. The team has proposed fresh strategies, compelling consumer engagement tactics and what we are convinced is the best go-forward positioning for design, merchandising and marketing. For this Spring 2014-15 Runway Report, like all Tobe Reports, we offer longer shelf-life research and analysissuited to strategically planning your assortments, delivery flow and the merchandising and marketing messages you will stand for. To do this we take the time to talk through the overarching implications for merchandising each level of business, the items, the novelty direction and the color flow, fabrications and design details. Weve even taken a close look at the Mens Runway this year in Tobes July Digital, Mens Spring 2014 Analysis at tobereport.com. For Tobe, the ubiquity of fast-to-market thematic runway analysis signaled a void in carefully evaluated runway dissection. To satisfy the interest in immediate coverage of the key Fashion Weeks, Tobe swiftly assesses New York, London, Milan and Paris to give you the top notes for each city. You received these Tobe Dispatches in your email in-box on September 18, 24, 30 and October 10, respectively. In addition, we prepare individual runway presentations focused on each of our consumer profilesDesigner/Young Designer, Contemporary/Young Contemporary, Teen/Tweenthat we encourage you and your teams to make time to review with us. These are presented in a conversational format so we can speak to the individual needs of your business. Tobes three levels of runway analysisReports, Dispatches and Presentationsare constructed to help you interpret the most recent collections for the long- and short-term, to appropriately pace your customer, define your offering and maximize business. Leslie J Ghize Executive Vice President
TOBE TAKEAWAYS
TECH ACCESSORIES
In collaboration with key technology brand Samsung, Fallon jewelry staged its first runway show incorporating traditional accessories with the new wearable devices.
FALLON JEWELRY
YOUNG MINDSET
Enter the age of the Young Luxe consumer, the new demographic darling of the designer set.
BALENCIAGA DKNY
TOBE SUGGESTS
Maximizing Shirttails
Foundation white shirts embody directional appeal with exposed shirttails that extend past the hemlines of skirts and dresses.
MSGN
RE-IMAGINED SUCCESSES
Consider details to be the key that unlocks the future success for already proven silhouettes.
CHRISTOPHER KANE
CHRISTIAN DIOR
LONDON
Barbara Casasola Emilia Wickstead Whistles
MILAN
Alessandro DellAcqua (No. 21) Alessandra Facchinetti (Tods) Alexis Martial (Iceberg) Fausto Puglisi Gaia Trussardi (Trussardi) Marco de Vincenzo
PARIS
Cdric Charlier Chitose Abe (Sacai) Julien Dossena (Paco Rabanne, ATTO)
Neo-conservatism lives on. Whats the latest iteration? Button-up tops with mini shorts.
Casual Footwear
The influx of casual footwear, be it flat sandals or slip-on sneakers, transformed the tone of many collections.
JOSEPH
tobereport.com
WABI-SABI
Beauty can be found in the imperfect. Thats the worldview attributed to the Japanese ideal of wabi-sabi. Undone, asymmetric, incomplete and rough-hewn are qualities associated with this aesthetic. Joseph Altuzarras patchworked pieces channel this idea perfectly and were inspired by the workwear of Japanese fishermen. These fishermen owned only one uniform and to prolong its life throughout the workers career, the garment was repaired and reworked; throwing it away was not an option. Here we see designers embrace unevenness, austerity, fraying and shirring to create long-lasting uniforms for todays consumer.
ALTUZARRA
COSTUME NATIONAL
CALVIN KLEIN
J.W. ANDERSON
TER ET BANTINE
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SIMPLE GEOMETRY
Geometric shapes were on the minds of many designers, from rectangles and squares to triangles and trapezoids to circles and ovals. These basic shapes are at the heart of design and provided the basis for adding volume and dimension to otherwise simple, unadorned and uncomplicated pieces of clothing. This design shift is resonating with paramours of fashion who want a dose of architecture without having to sacrifice wearability.
EMILIA WICKSTEAD
AKRIS
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
BALENCIAGA
GUY LAROCHE
YOUNG LUXE
It all started with Hedi Slimanes Fall 2013 collection for Saint Laurent. Slimanes younger-skewing looks spawned a new aesthetic Young Luxe. Continuing this season, Alexander Wangs Balenciaga looked decidedly more Wang than the young designers debut collection last season. Julien Dossena premiered at Paco Rabanne with a youthful range for the futuristic minimalist and, proving that age is just a number, Karl Lagerfeld showed several Young Luxe-leaning looks for Chanel on the heels of his recent 80th birthday.
BALENCIAGA
SAINT LAURENT
PACO RABANNE
WES GORDON
PETER SOM
CHANEL
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ATHLETICA
For the past several seasons designers have been pulling inspiration from all different arenas, sports arenas that is. Spring 14-15 marks a more literal interpretation of this trend than seasons past. Leveraging on true performance featureslook to Gucci for strategically placed mesh insets and to Tommy Hilfiger for smart fabricsthe integration of the sports influence is more significant than just design and styling details.
TOMMY HILFIGER
PRABAL GURUNG
GUCCI
PRADA
THOMAS TAIT
MARNI
MAX RELAX
Continuing from last season and the mid-season presentations, silhouettes loosen up and move away from the body with shaping and proportion becoming more deliberate. Oversized garments, voluminous layering pieces and a slouchy sensibility grow stronger. In no way sloppy or unkempt, these looks boast an effortlessly pulled together aesthetic. This new fit and look is all about comfort, ease and a sense of soft sophistication when designed with care.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
CHLO
HERMS
PHILOSOPHY
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OVER-UNDER LAYERING
An over/under layering concept challenges the ubiquitous piled-on look. Precise arrangement of items, see Fendis top placed over a skirt over a dress, gives the illusion of leveled dressing.Simpler pairings include DKNYs swimsuits layered under a shorts suit.
ALTUZARRA
FENDI
CLINE
DKNY
CHLO
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MATCHED SET
Matched sets continue to prove they have lasting appeal. From pajama sets to mini dresses paired with coordinating cardigans and head-to-toe print ensembles, these iterations are anything but fatigued.
ALEXANDER WANG
MULBERRY
DKNY
CARVEN
MARCO DE VINCENZO
SHEER
How revealing! Designers chose to bare it all with a range of transparent garments. Conservative silhouettes such as elastic-gathered tops and matching skirts as well as fitted dresses styled with modest over-pieces conveyed a feeling of soft romanticism. Sheer panels decorated coat and skirt hems for something more covered up.
BURBERRY PRORSUM
JW ANDERSON
ICEBERG
ALBERTA FERRETTI
BALENCIAGA
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ARTFUL SIMPLICITY
Simplicity is underrated. Easy, unfussy separates of the utmost quality worn together whisper chic without ever having to shout. The easy fold, an interesting cut, delicate seaming underscore the subtlety of this artistry.
CHLO
HERMS
JASON WU
CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE
CRISSCROSS
Items from his and her wardrobe are being crisscrossed on runways (see Tobe Evolve: Crisscross). His oversized moto jacket with her bias-cut skirt at Jason Wu. His white button-down shirt under her t-shirt dress with the shirttail peeking out at MSGM. Masculine-meets-feminine never looked so good.
MSGM
NO. 21
JASON WU
TRUSSARDI
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NEO-CONSERVATISM
As called out in our first edition of Tobe Evolve, quietly confident Neo-Conservatism still offers a soft sex appeal for both a younger and a more mature customer. This studied femininity graced numerous Spring 14-15 runways, confirming the continuance of this design sensibility with the careful pairing of covered up and revealing.
BURBERRY PRORSUM
MIU MIU
ROCHAS
ERDEM
EMILIA WICKSTEAD
HONOR
CULTURAL CLASH
A sense of opulence, mysticisim and decadence emerged across all four runway cities. Here the festival girl is transformed into a world class traveler. Passport ready, these looks are stamped with ornamentation, embellishment, fringe and draping with layering widespreadthink long tunics and dresses over pants.
CHLO
MIU MIU
ASHISH
ETRO
GIVENCHY
THE ROW
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STREET STYLING
With consumer-centricity as our cornerstone, Tobe was particularly delighted to see a heavy trickle-up of street styles to the Spring 2014 runways. Nineties fashion and hip hop influences were among the reflected aesthetics. And from the streets themselves: graffiti motifs. A strong denim presence among even the most luxurious of labels punctuated the theme.
BRIAN LICHTENBERG
ALEXANDER WANG
RODARTE
LOUIS VUITTON
CARVEN
WHITE PARTY
Crisp, fresh-laundry whites make for a clean color palette refresh story for spring. Whether merchandised together for head-to-toe pairings or called out as It items (see: the great white coat, white suiting and the little white shift dress), consider white the new black. The white shirt also made for a particularly popular item across many a designer collection.
VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
BURBERRY PRORSUM
MARNI
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THE ITEMS
IMPACT INCOMING ADVANCED
jackets
BOMBER
Impact
A trend item for seasons, the cleaned-up bomber makes the biggest impact for retail for Spring 2014.
IMPACT
INCOMING
ADVANCED
Incoming
VICTORIA BECKHAM STELLA MCCARTNEY JASON WU
For consumers with basic bombers in their wardrobe rotation already, decorated versions hold the most appeal.
ANORAK
Impact
Form meets function as the anorak reenters the fashion conversation.
Incoming
While more literal versions are projected to make the most impact, anoraks constructed in more dressed-up fabrics extend the styles versatility.
MARNI
Advanced
Advanced
High design elements like cropped lengths and football sleeves elevate the item.
VEST
Impact
A key ingredient for the layering look going forward, the motorcycle vest is set to hit next at retail.
Incoming
Double-breasted construction and oversized fit embody Crisscross dressing. (See Tobe Evolve: Crisscross for a full analysis of the unisex styling shift.)
VRONIQUE LROY
OPENING CEREMONY
CHRISTIAN DIOR
Advanced
YIGAL AZROUL
SACAI
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sweaters
CARDIGAN
Impact
Recently viewed as a fashion item, the cropped cardigan set will appeal to anyone who has already adopted the cropped silhouette.
IMPACT
INCOMING
ADVANCED
Incoming
ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK
Consumers who desire a come-hither aesthetic will be persuaded to try the sheer cardigan for Spring 2014.
Advanced
Look for the self-proclaimed style gurus to be the first to embrace the oversized slouchy cardigan.
PULLOVER
Impact
Layering takes on new levels as the lightweight and slim fit pullover is paired over dresses.
Incoming
Clothing continues to loosen up with a sense of ease, confirming that the slouchy pullover will have great impact on Spring 2014 retail floors.
WES GORDON
ROCHAS
Key influencers like Cline push the boundaries on seasonality with an oversized turtleneck pullover paired back to a sheer skirt.
SWEATSHIRT
Impact
A fashion item for a few seasons now, the icon sweatshirt will lead the pack as the impact piece of the moment.
Incoming
Shape and volume penetrate the sweatshirt with an exaggerated and full sleeve.
ANTONIO BERARDI
Embellishment, decoration and surface interest will attract the most forward dressers.
MARC JACOBS
ICEBERG
Advanced
CLINE
Advanced
ACNE
SONIA RYKIEL
tops
CROP TOP
Impact
The crop top in its truest forma sleeveless shell that accentuates the midriff.
IMPACT
INCOMING
ADVANCED
Incoming
Next up? A boxy, camp-style shirt that can be easily adopted given its roomy silhouette. Bralette tops worn over outerwear look like one, unified piece.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Advanced
LYN DEVON
ELEVATED TEE
Impact
Graphics tees, with a longer sleeve length and dropped shoulder seam, will be important especially for younger consumers. The sport of choicetennisevident with the influx of polo shirts and sport stripes.
RAG & BONE CLINE MSGM
Incoming Advanced
ASHISH
Longer lengths and fuller sleeves define the shape of the football jersey.
WHITE SHIRT
Impact
The classic white button-down, an item Tobe first noticed on the Fall runways, continues to make its mark as a wardrobe staple.
Incoming
Oxford blue brings something new to the table, especially with the addition of sheer insets. Across the fashion cities, oversized white shirts extended past the hemlines of skirts and dresses.
MICHAEL KORS
Advanced
VALENTINO
PRADA
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dresses
BELOW-THE-KNEE
Impact
The modern maxi.
IMPACT
INCOMING
ADVANCED
Incoming
The minimal slip.
Advanced
The ladylike sheath.
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
SHIFT
Impact Incoming
The little white (shift) dress.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
DKNY
FENDI
Advanced
A layered version with elbow-length sleeves.
TANYA TAYLOR
SHIRTDRESS
Impact
Classic, fluid and appropriate for a variety of occasions.
Incoming
Cutouts and twists add a feminine touch.
Advanced
STELLA MCCARTNEY
CHRISTIAN DIOR
SACAI
PORTS 1961
pants
WIDE CROP
Impact
The most casual take on this item, cut in twill.
IMPACT
INCOMING
ADVANCED
Incoming
Tailored and skirt-like with an inverted pleat detail.
Advanced
PROENZA SCHOULER EMPORIO ARMANI DELPOZO TRUSSARDI
HIGH-WAIST
Impact
Skinny denim gets the high-waisted treatment.
Incoming
A menswear version with pleats and creases.
FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA GIVENCHY
Advanced
Roomy, carrot-leg crops.
BARBARA BUI
JUMPSUIT
Impact
Grown-up romper.
Incoming
Strapless and cropped.
Advanced
Draped, full-length and evening-ready.
VALENTINO
WHISTLES
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skirts
FULL
Impact
Skirts, a category that Tobe projects will grow in importance in the coming seasons, come in all shapes and sizes for Spring 2014-15.
IMPACT
INCOMING
ADVANCED
Incoming
Flare and circle versions in mini lengths are beginning to trend at street level.
FAUSTO PUGLISI
Were flagging architectural skirts as the Next Big Thing. Look to this Guy Laroche version for mature consumers and to the Australian Contemporary market for younger cues.
STRAIGHT
Impact
Long length jackets styled with straight miniskirts made for a cool combination that was splashed across runways for Spring 2014. Altuzarras wabi-sabi take on pencil skirts refresh the item.
LACOSTE
Incoming Advanced
Modest dressers need not apply; sheer skirts were layered to reveal a number of underpinnings, from hot pants to shirttails.
BALENCIAGA
ALTUZARRA
GUY LAROCHE
Advanced
shorts
Impact
Track shorts falls in line with consumers real world gym-to-street affinity. The Young Contemporary/Contemporary love affair with skorts has only just begun.
Incoming
MARC BY MARC JACOBS GIAMBATTISTA VALLI MARC JACOBS PAUL & JOE
Long length shorts are included in collections of all ilks for Spring 2014. Expect softly tailored Bermuda styles to hold relevance into 2015.
Advanced
Board shorts reflect the surfing slant thats permeating fashion.
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PRABAL GURUNG
footwear
Casual dressing, one of the most impactful messages on the runway, is key for footwear. Slip-on sneakers, sporty and flat sandals and low-heeled silhouettes dominated the collections. Pointy toes continue to span a range of shoes.
Slip-On Mule
TOMMY HILFIGER
Athletic Sneaker
DKNY
Perforated Slip-On
OSKLEN
Sport Sandal
SUNO
Pointed Pump
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
Pointed Loafer
CREATURES OF THE WIND
Mid-Heel Slingback
TORY BURCH
Feathered Flat
ROCHAS
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handbags
Clean and simplesupple leather and structured shapes mark the increasing minimal direction for handbags. The aesthetic works for more than just shoulder bags and clutches.
Hip Pouch
TORY BURCH
Mini Clutch
MULBERRY
Two-fer Duffle
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Shoulder Bag
MARNI
Backpack
MARIOS SCHWAB
jewelry
High necklines arent just for apparelthe reemergence of chokers came on strong. The biggest innovation for jewelry comes through in Fenton & Fallons collaboration with Samsungs new wearable tech gadgetthe Samsung Galaxy Gear.
Metal Choker
BALENCIAGA
Plastic Choker
KENZO
Metal Collar
MIU MIU
Ear Cuff
PRABAL GURUNG
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eyewear
The eyewear category has seen quite a bit of growth over the past year with new players constantly entering the market. Spring 2014 is no exceptionnew frames, lens treatments and colorways will keep consumers interested well past the season.
Flip-Up Frames
CHANEL
Mirrored Lenses
ALBERTA FERRETTI
Colorful Pop
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Fused Frames
ERDEM
hats
Shapes that move basics forwardextended sport visors and double-brimmed bucket hats.
Double-Brimmed
AKRIS
Turban
DEREK LAM
Sport Visor
MARNI
etc.
A round-up of notable mentions include a mix of accessoriessee Pradas jeweled tube sock and Derek Lams fringe scarf.
Tied Belt
CLINE
Fringe Scarf
DEREK LAM
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STELLA MCCARTNEY
Coinciding with casual dressing, denim blues (both true denim and shades mimicking the material) could not go unnoticed.
HERMS
VIONNET
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
Herms fall-worthy look of rich jewel tones provides a striking alternative to Springs warm palette.
Most notable about Spring blues was the range in which they were presentedan oxford blue and bright navy often paired together.
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color
NEW NEUTRALS
Bright navy, mustard and forest green have become year-round essentialsknown as Tobes new neutrals. Consumers consider these basics and understand how to pair them with the latest fashion colors. New additions are elephant grey and Clorox white; dont be surprised to see a slew of forward dressers wearing them head-to-toe come Spring 14.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
JORDAN ALMOND
Spring 2014s confectionary palette features an assortment of hues reminiscent of a bowl of Jordan almonds. The finest cues come from Burberry Prorsums back-to-neutral pairing, Icebergs icing-white semi-sheer top layer and Thomas Taits sweet and concrete combination.
MARNI
HERMS
BURBERRY PRORSUM
ICEBERG
MIU MIU
THOMAS TAIT
ROCHAS
CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE
CHLO
color
REINVENTED METALLICS
Metallics were reimagined on Spring 2014 runways by designers who gave them a patinated finish, softened them in the wash cycle, added iridescence or spliced them with neutrals.
COSMETIC COMPACT
Cosmetic tones have migrated from mirrored compacts to clothing and accessories. Merchandise rouges and blush tones with nudes and skin tones for balance.
GUCCI
LANVIN
MULBERRY
FENDI
VALENTINO
PROENZA SCHOULER
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prints/patterns
CAMPING
For Spring 2014, picnic gingham, beach towel stripes, bandana prints and blanket stripes layer together for a pattern story reminiscent of a well-appointed campsitea glamp-site, if you will.
BALMAIN
CHALAYAN
DKNY
ROSIE ASSOULIN
ART GALLERY
Art and fashion are frequently linked so its no surprise that several influential fashion houses looked to graffiti, murals and watercolors for print inspiration.
CLINE
CHANEL
PRADA
ISA ARFEN
prints/patterns
WIT + WHIMSY
First explored this year in our Tobe Report: Wit + Whimsy, prints with kitsch and kick served up another round of winks from the runway. Scattered patterns, critters and text remain essential.
LIBERTINE
SPORTMAX
AZEDE JEAN-PIERRE
UNDERCOVER
VACATION
Want to get away? Be it Hawaiian redux or Polynesiainspired, vacation prints make for postcard perfect patterns.
NATURAL
Scenes from nature, like splices of tree bark at Akris, added a graphic element to clothing and conveyed a sense of movement. Resembling paisley from afar, Kenzos school of fish invited a closer look.
NO. 21
MISSONI
AKRIS
KENZO
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defining details
Details ran the gamut, from surface interest standouts like patches, embroidery and burnouts to visually inspiring wraps, folds and flaps. Unfinished edges, fringe and feathers brought attention to the seams and construction of the garment, while cutouts, sheer insets and mesh played with a skin vs. material contrast. Details are the simplest way to update classics and best sellers, or take the ordinary to the extraordinary.
Patches
DKNY
Embroidery
JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Burnout
FENDI
Raised Surfaces
MARNI
Plastic
SIMONE ROCHA
Folds
RAG & BONE
Wraps
PREEN
Flaps
GIANFRANCO FERR
Mesh
GUCCI
Knife Pleats
THAKOON
Feathers
THOMAS TAIT
Fringe
ALTUZARRA
Sheer Insets
VICTORIA BECKHAM
Unfinished Edges
CHANEL
Cutouts
CLINE
Asymmetry
CHRISTOPHER KANE
Piping
TANYA TAYLOR
Paperbag Waist
AQUILANO.RIMONDI
Zippers
SAINT LAURENT
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WHATS COMING
EDITORS ALYSSA CIRANNI 212-560-3611 aciranni@tobereport.com AMY LAN 212-560-3609 alan@tobereport.com OLIVIA PANELLA 212-560-3604 opanella@tobereport.com MARGARET WILLIAMSON 212-560-3608 mwilliamson@tobereport.com
Entertainment/Fashion
TOBE 463 Seventh Avenue, Suite 202, New York, New York 10018 T 212-867-8677 F 212-867-8662 www.tobereport.com
Copyright 2012 Tobe Associates, a member of The Doneger Group, 463 Seventh Ave., New York, N.Y. 10018 USA. All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system.
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