Sei sulla pagina 1di 44

Philosophy

No. 21

Veronique Branquinho

Alexander Wang

MSGM

TOBE
RUNWAY SPRING 2014-15
REPORT
V OLUME X 2013

Bottega Veneta

LETTER TO THE CLIENT

We hope youve noticed this year of transformation for Tobe. We take seriously our heritage as a top executive read and have given thoughtful consideration to where our industry is going, how the consumer is evolving and what key strategies need to be examined to be a winner in the eyes of the customer. During this last year weve stepped back and cast a fresh eye on large topics to put forth smart thought-leadership in areas such as Seasonality, The Creative Economy, Customer Care and Branding. The team has proposed fresh strategies, compelling consumer engagement tactics and what we are convinced is the best go-forward positioning for design, merchandising and marketing. For this Spring 2014-15 Runway Report, like all Tobe Reports, we offer longer shelf-life research and analysissuited to strategically planning your assortments, delivery flow and the merchandising and marketing messages you will stand for. To do this we take the time to talk through the overarching implications for merchandising each level of business, the items, the novelty direction and the color flow, fabrications and design details. Weve even taken a close look at the Mens Runway this year in Tobes July Digital, Mens Spring 2014 Analysis at tobereport.com. For Tobe, the ubiquity of fast-to-market thematic runway analysis signaled a void in carefully evaluated runway dissection. To satisfy the interest in immediate coverage of the key Fashion Weeks, Tobe swiftly assesses New York, London, Milan and Paris to give you the top notes for each city. You received these Tobe Dispatches in your email in-box on September 18, 24, 30 and October 10, respectively. In addition, we prepare individual runway presentations focused on each of our consumer profilesDesigner/Young Designer, Contemporary/Young Contemporary, Teen/Tweenthat we encourage you and your teams to make time to review with us. These are presented in a conversational format so we can speak to the individual needs of your business. Tobes three levels of runway analysisReports, Dispatches and Presentationsare constructed to help you interpret the most recent collections for the long- and short-term, to appropriately pace your customer, define your offering and maximize business. Leslie J Ghize Executive Vice President

TOBE TAKEAWAYS
TECH ACCESSORIES
In collaboration with key technology brand Samsung, Fallon jewelry staged its first runway show incorporating traditional accessories with the new wearable devices.

FALLON JEWELRY

REAL WAY TO RUNWAY


Many a catwalk reflected styles on the sidewalks, making for undeniably wearable merchandising direction for Spring 2014-15.
CARVEN

YOUNG MINDSET
Enter the age of the Young Luxe consumer, the new demographic darling of the designer set.
BALENCIAGA DKNY

TOBE SUGGESTS

Styling with Long Sleeves


As a go-forward styling technique, extra-long sleeves will be worn unbuttoned, conveying an air of relaxed insouciance.

Maximizing Shirttails
Foundation white shirts embody directional appeal with exposed shirttails that extend past the hemlines of skirts and dresses.
MSGN

New Proportion, Long Over Short


Mini-skirts and dresses may be the summer must-have but not everyone wants to bare it alloffer the customer a new styling quotient by pairing mirco styles with long jackets and vests.
2 TO BENEX T V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

RE-IMAGINED SUCCESSES
Consider details to be the key that unlocks the future success for already proven silhouettes.

TOBE TAKE ACTION NAMES TO KNOW


NEW YORK
Adam Lippes Adam Selman Charles Harbison (Harbison) Frame Denim Hanako Maeda (ADEAM) Josep Font (Delpozo) Nellie Partow Rosie Assoulin Tae Yong (Beyond Closet) Tanya Taylor Wes Gordon

CHRISTOPHER KANE

CHRISTIAN DIOR

LONDON
Barbara Casasola Emilia Wickstead Whistles

HANDLE VOLUME WITH CARE


While silhouettes grow in volume, proportion becomes essential to on-the-floor-stylingthink structured and oversized tops worn with lean and skinny bottoms.

MILAN
Alessandro DellAcqua (No. 21) Alessandra Facchinetti (Tods) Alexis Martial (Iceberg) Fausto Puglisi Gaia Trussardi (Trussardi) Marco de Vincenzo

PARIS
Cdric Charlier Chitose Abe (Sacai) Julien Dossena (Paco Rabanne, ATTO)

A Study in Contrast Focusing on the New Fit


Silhouettes loosen-up, sophistication gets a sense of ease and consumers continue to adopt a comfortable but chic aesthetic.
TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013
HONOR

Natalie Alaverdian (A.W.A.K.E) Yang Li

Neo-conservatism lives on. Whats the latest iteration? Button-up tops with mini shorts.

ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK

Casual Footwear
The influx of casual footwear, be it flat sandals or slip-on sneakers, transformed the tone of many collections.
JOSEPH

tobereport.com

THE CONCEPTS INFORMING GO-FORWARD DESIGN

4 TO BENEX T V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

WABI-SABI
Beauty can be found in the imperfect. Thats the worldview attributed to the Japanese ideal of wabi-sabi. Undone, asymmetric, incomplete and rough-hewn are qualities associated with this aesthetic. Joseph Altuzarras patchworked pieces channel this idea perfectly and were inspired by the workwear of Japanese fishermen. These fishermen owned only one uniform and to prolong its life throughout the workers career, the garment was repaired and reworked; throwing it away was not an option. Here we see designers embrace unevenness, austerity, fraying and shirring to create long-lasting uniforms for todays consumer.

ALTUZARRA

COSTUME NATIONAL

CALVIN KLEIN

J.W. ANDERSON

TER ET BANTINE

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

SIMPLE GEOMETRY
Geometric shapes were on the minds of many designers, from rectangles and squares to triangles and trapezoids to circles and ovals. These basic shapes are at the heart of design and provided the basis for adding volume and dimension to otherwise simple, unadorned and uncomplicated pieces of clothing. This design shift is resonating with paramours of fashion who want a dose of architecture without having to sacrifice wearability.

6 TO BENEX T V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

AKRIS

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

BALENCIAGA

GUY LAROCHE

YOUNG LUXE
It all started with Hedi Slimanes Fall 2013 collection for Saint Laurent. Slimanes younger-skewing looks spawned a new aesthetic Young Luxe. Continuing this season, Alexander Wangs Balenciaga looked decidedly more Wang than the young designers debut collection last season. Julien Dossena premiered at Paco Rabanne with a youthful range for the futuristic minimalist and, proving that age is just a number, Karl Lagerfeld showed several Young Luxe-leaning looks for Chanel on the heels of his recent 80th birthday.

BALENCIAGA

SAINT LAURENT

PACO RABANNE

WES GORDON

PETER SOM

CHANEL

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

ATHLETICA
For the past several seasons designers have been pulling inspiration from all different arenas, sports arenas that is. Spring 14-15 marks a more literal interpretation of this trend than seasons past. Leveraging on true performance featureslook to Gucci for strategically placed mesh insets and to Tommy Hilfiger for smart fabricsthe integration of the sports influence is more significant than just design and styling details.

TOMMY HILFIGER

PRABAL GURUNG

8 TO BENEX T V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

GUCCI

PRADA

THOMAS TAIT

MARNI

MAX RELAX
Continuing from last season and the mid-season presentations, silhouettes loosen up and move away from the body with shaping and proportion becoming more deliberate. Oversized garments, voluminous layering pieces and a slouchy sensibility grow stronger. In no way sloppy or unkempt, these looks boast an effortlessly pulled together aesthetic. This new fit and look is all about comfort, ease and a sense of soft sophistication when designed with care.

ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK

STELLA MCCARTNEY

CHLO

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

HERMS

PHILOSOPHY

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

THE AESTHETICS OF STYLING AND MERCHANDISING

10 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

OVER-UNDER LAYERING
An over/under layering concept challenges the ubiquitous piled-on look. Precise arrangement of items, see Fendis top placed over a skirt over a dress, gives the illusion of leveled dressing.Simpler pairings include DKNYs swimsuits layered under a shorts suit.

ALTUZARRA

FENDI

CLINE

DKNY

CHLO

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

11

MATCHED SET
Matched sets continue to prove they have lasting appeal. From pajama sets to mini dresses paired with coordinating cardigans and head-to-toe print ensembles, these iterations are anything but fatigued.

ALEXANDER WANG

12 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

MULBERRY

DKNY

CARVEN

MARCO DE VINCENZO

SHEER
How revealing! Designers chose to bare it all with a range of transparent garments. Conservative silhouettes such as elastic-gathered tops and matching skirts as well as fitted dresses styled with modest over-pieces conveyed a feeling of soft romanticism. Sheer panels decorated coat and skirt hems for something more covered up.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

JW ANDERSON

ICEBERG

ALBERTA FERRETTI

BALENCIAGA

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

13

ARTFUL SIMPLICITY
Simplicity is underrated. Easy, unfussy separates of the utmost quality worn together whisper chic without ever having to shout. The easy fold, an interesting cut, delicate seaming underscore the subtlety of this artistry.

FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA

CHLO

HERMS

14 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

JASON WU

CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE

CRISSCROSS
Items from his and her wardrobe are being crisscrossed on runways (see Tobe Evolve: Crisscross). His oversized moto jacket with her bias-cut skirt at Jason Wu. His white button-down shirt under her t-shirt dress with the shirttail peeking out at MSGM. Masculine-meets-feminine never looked so good.

MSGM

NO. 21

JASON WU

VIKTOR & ROLF

TRUSSARDI

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

15

NEO-CONSERVATISM
As called out in our first edition of Tobe Evolve, quietly confident Neo-Conservatism still offers a soft sex appeal for both a younger and a more mature customer. This studied femininity graced numerous Spring 14-15 runways, confirming the continuance of this design sensibility with the careful pairing of covered up and revealing.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

MIU MIU

ROCHAS

ERDEM

16 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

HONOR

CULTURAL CLASH
A sense of opulence, mysticisim and decadence emerged across all four runway cities. Here the festival girl is transformed into a world class traveler. Passport ready, these looks are stamped with ornamentation, embellishment, fringe and draping with layering widespreadthink long tunics and dresses over pants.

CHLO

MIU MIU

DRIES VAN NOTEN

ASHISH

ETRO

GIVENCHY

THE ROW

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

17

STREET STYLING
With consumer-centricity as our cornerstone, Tobe was particularly delighted to see a heavy trickle-up of street styles to the Spring 2014 runways. Nineties fashion and hip hop influences were among the reflected aesthetics. And from the streets themselves: graffiti motifs. A strong denim presence among even the most luxurious of labels punctuated the theme.

BRIAN LICHTENBERG

ALEXANDER WANG

18 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

RODARTE

LOUIS VUITTON

CARVEN

WHITE PARTY
Crisp, fresh-laundry whites make for a clean color palette refresh story for spring. Whether merchandised together for head-to-toe pairings or called out as It items (see: the great white coat, white suiting and the little white shift dress), consider white the new black. The white shirt also made for a particularly popular item across many a designer collection.

VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

BURBERRY PRORSUM

MARNI

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

19

THE ITEMS
IMPACT INCOMING ADVANCED

20 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

jackets
BOMBER
Impact
A trend item for seasons, the cleaned-up bomber makes the biggest impact for retail for Spring 2014.

IMPACT

INCOMING

ADVANCED

Incoming
VICTORIA BECKHAM STELLA MCCARTNEY JASON WU

For consumers with basic bombers in their wardrobe rotation already, decorated versions hold the most appeal.

Forward dressers will be quick to adopt the bomber dress.

ANORAK
Impact
Form meets function as the anorak reenters the fashion conversation.

Incoming
While more literal versions are projected to make the most impact, anoraks constructed in more dressed-up fabrics extend the styles versatility.

MARNI

Advanced

Advanced
High design elements like cropped lengths and football sleeves elevate the item.

VEST
Impact
A key ingredient for the layering look going forward, the motorcycle vest is set to hit next at retail.

Incoming
Double-breasted construction and oversized fit embody Crisscross dressing. (See Tobe Evolve: Crisscross for a full analysis of the unisex styling shift.)

VRONIQUE LROY

OPENING CEREMONY

Elongated styles are swapped in for blazers for advanced dressers.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Advanced

YIGAL AZROUL

SACAI

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

21

sweaters
CARDIGAN
Impact
Recently viewed as a fashion item, the cropped cardigan set will appeal to anyone who has already adopted the cropped silhouette.

IMPACT

INCOMING

ADVANCED

Incoming
ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK

Consumers who desire a come-hither aesthetic will be persuaded to try the sheer cardigan for Spring 2014.

Advanced
Look for the self-proclaimed style gurus to be the first to embrace the oversized slouchy cardigan.

PULLOVER
Impact
Layering takes on new levels as the lightweight and slim fit pullover is paired over dresses.

Incoming
Clothing continues to loosen up with a sense of ease, confirming that the slouchy pullover will have great impact on Spring 2014 retail floors.
WES GORDON

ROCHAS

Key influencers like Cline push the boundaries on seasonality with an oversized turtleneck pullover paired back to a sheer skirt.

SWEATSHIRT
Impact
A fashion item for a few seasons now, the icon sweatshirt will lead the pack as the impact piece of the moment.

Incoming
Shape and volume penetrate the sweatshirt with an exaggerated and full sleeve.
ANTONIO BERARDI

Embellishment, decoration and surface interest will attract the most forward dressers.

22 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

MARC JACOBS

ICEBERG

Advanced

CLINE

Advanced

ACNE

SONIA RYKIEL

tops
CROP TOP
Impact
The crop top in its truest forma sleeveless shell that accentuates the midriff.

IMPACT

INCOMING

ADVANCED

Incoming
Next up? A boxy, camp-style shirt that can be easily adopted given its roomy silhouette. Bralette tops worn over outerwear look like one, unified piece.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Advanced

LYN DEVON

ELEVATED TEE
Impact
Graphics tees, with a longer sleeve length and dropped shoulder seam, will be important especially for younger consumers. The sport of choicetennisevident with the influx of polo shirts and sport stripes.
RAG & BONE CLINE MSGM

Incoming Advanced
ASHISH

Longer lengths and fuller sleeves define the shape of the football jersey.

WHITE SHIRT
Impact
The classic white button-down, an item Tobe first noticed on the Fall runways, continues to make its mark as a wardrobe staple.

Incoming
Oxford blue brings something new to the table, especially with the addition of sheer insets. Across the fashion cities, oversized white shirts extended past the hemlines of skirts and dresses.
MICHAEL KORS

Advanced

VALENTINO

PRADA

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

23

dresses
BELOW-THE-KNEE
Impact
The modern maxi.

IMPACT

INCOMING

ADVANCED

Incoming
The minimal slip.

Advanced
The ladylike sheath.
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

SHIFT
Impact Incoming
The little white (shift) dress.
VICTORIA BECKHAM

Short and flirty T-shirt dress.

DKNY

FENDI

Advanced
A layered version with elbow-length sleeves.
TANYA TAYLOR

SHIRTDRESS
Impact
Classic, fluid and appropriate for a variety of occasions.

Incoming
Cutouts and twists add a feminine touch.

Advanced
STELLA MCCARTNEY

Perforations and plumes of fabric elevate this wardrobe staple.

24 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

CHRISTIAN DIOR

SACAI

PORTS 1961

pants
WIDE CROP
Impact
The most casual take on this item, cut in twill.

IMPACT

INCOMING

ADVANCED

Incoming
Tailored and skirt-like with an inverted pleat detail.

Advanced
PROENZA SCHOULER EMPORIO ARMANI DELPOZO TRUSSARDI

Go for drama with a pattern and texture.

HIGH-WAIST
Impact
Skinny denim gets the high-waisted treatment.

Incoming
A menswear version with pleats and creases.
FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA GIVENCHY

Advanced
Roomy, carrot-leg crops.
BARBARA BUI

JUMPSUIT
Impact
Grown-up romper.

Incoming
Strapless and cropped.

Advanced
Draped, full-length and evening-ready.
VALENTINO

WHISTLES

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

25

skirts
FULL
Impact
Skirts, a category that Tobe projects will grow in importance in the coming seasons, come in all shapes and sizes for Spring 2014-15.

IMPACT

INCOMING

ADVANCED

Incoming
Flare and circle versions in mini lengths are beginning to trend at street level.
FAUSTO PUGLISI

Were flagging architectural skirts as the Next Big Thing. Look to this Guy Laroche version for mature consumers and to the Australian Contemporary market for younger cues.

STRAIGHT
Impact
Long length jackets styled with straight miniskirts made for a cool combination that was splashed across runways for Spring 2014. Altuzarras wabi-sabi take on pencil skirts refresh the item.
LACOSTE

Incoming Advanced
Modest dressers need not apply; sheer skirts were layered to reveal a number of underpinnings, from hot pants to shirttails.

BALENCIAGA

ALTUZARRA

GUY LAROCHE

Advanced

shorts
Impact
Track shorts falls in line with consumers real world gym-to-street affinity. The Young Contemporary/Contemporary love affair with skorts has only just begun.

Incoming
MARC BY MARC JACOBS GIAMBATTISTA VALLI MARC JACOBS PAUL & JOE

Long length shorts are included in collections of all ilks for Spring 2014. Expect softly tailored Bermuda styles to hold relevance into 2015.

Advanced
Board shorts reflect the surfing slant thats permeating fashion.
26 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

PRABAL GURUNG

footwear
Casual dressing, one of the most impactful messages on the runway, is key for footwear. Slip-on sneakers, sporty and flat sandals and low-heeled silhouettes dominated the collections. Pointy toes continue to span a range of shoes.

Slip-On Mule
TOMMY HILFIGER

Athletic Sneaker
DKNY

Perforated Slip-On
OSKLEN

Sport Sandal
SUNO

Pointed Pump
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Pointed Loafer
CREATURES OF THE WIND

Mid-Heel Slingback
TORY BURCH

Feathered Flat
ROCHAS

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

27

handbags
Clean and simplesupple leather and structured shapes mark the increasing minimal direction for handbags. The aesthetic works for more than just shoulder bags and clutches.

Hip Pouch
TORY BURCH

Mini Clutch
MULBERRY

Two-fer Duffle
3.1 PHILLIP LIM

Shoulder Bag
MARNI

Backpack
MARIOS SCHWAB

28 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

jewelry
High necklines arent just for apparelthe reemergence of chokers came on strong. The biggest innovation for jewelry comes through in Fenton & Fallons collaboration with Samsungs new wearable tech gadgetthe Samsung Galaxy Gear.

Metal Choker
BALENCIAGA

Plastic Choker
KENZO

Metal Collar
MIU MIU

Samsung Galaxy Gear


FENTON & FALLON

Ear Cuff
PRABAL GURUNG

Hand Chain and Rings


VERONICA BEARD

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

29

eyewear
The eyewear category has seen quite a bit of growth over the past year with new players constantly entering the market. Spring 2014 is no exceptionnew frames, lens treatments and colorways will keep consumers interested well past the season.

Flip-Up Frames
CHANEL

Mirrored Lenses
ALBERTA FERRETTI

Colorful Pop
STELLA MCCARTNEY

Fused Frames
ERDEM

30 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

hats
Shapes that move basics forwardextended sport visors and double-brimmed bucket hats.

Double-Brimmed
AKRIS

Turban
DEREK LAM

Sport Visor
MARNI

etc.
A round-up of notable mentions include a mix of accessoriessee Pradas jeweled tube sock and Derek Lams fringe scarf.

Jeweled Tube Sock


PRADA

Tied Belt
CLINE

Fringe Scarf
DEREK LAM

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

31

DRIVING COLOR MESSAGES

32 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Coinciding with casual dressing, denim blues (both true denim and shades mimicking the material) could not go unnoticed.

HERMS

Terracotta and rustic red are a new take on earthy hues.

VIONNET

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

Herms fall-worthy look of rich jewel tones provides a striking alternative to Springs warm palette.

Most notable about Spring blues was the range in which they were presentedan oxford blue and bright navy often paired together.

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

33

color
NEW NEUTRALS
Bright navy, mustard and forest green have become year-round essentialsknown as Tobes new neutrals. Consumers consider these basics and understand how to pair them with the latest fashion colors. New additions are elephant grey and Clorox white; dont be surprised to see a slew of forward dressers wearing them head-to-toe come Spring 14.

VICTORIA BECKHAM

JORDAN ALMOND
Spring 2014s confectionary palette features an assortment of hues reminiscent of a bowl of Jordan almonds. The finest cues come from Burberry Prorsums back-to-neutral pairing, Icebergs icing-white semi-sheer top layer and Thomas Taits sweet and concrete combination.

MARNI

HERMS

BURBERRY PRORSUM

ICEBERG

34 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

MIU MIU

THOMAS TAIT

ROCHAS

CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE

CHLO

color
REINVENTED METALLICS
Metallics were reimagined on Spring 2014 runways by designers who gave them a patinated finish, softened them in the wash cycle, added iridescence or spliced them with neutrals.

COSMETIC COMPACT
Cosmetic tones have migrated from mirrored compacts to clothing and accessories. Merchandise rouges and blush tones with nudes and skin tones for balance.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

GUCCI

LANVIN

MULBERRY

RAG & BONE

FENDI

VALENTINO

PROENZA SCHOULER

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

35

prints/patterns
CAMPING
For Spring 2014, picnic gingham, beach towel stripes, bandana prints and blanket stripes layer together for a pattern story reminiscent of a well-appointed campsitea glamp-site, if you will.

BALMAIN

CHALAYAN

DKNY

ROSIE ASSOULIN

ART GALLERY
Art and fashion are frequently linked so its no surprise that several influential fashion houses looked to graffiti, murals and watercolors for print inspiration.

CLINE

CHANEL

PRADA

ISA ARFEN

36 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

prints/patterns
WIT + WHIMSY
First explored this year in our Tobe Report: Wit + Whimsy, prints with kitsch and kick served up another round of winks from the runway. Scattered patterns, critters and text remain essential.

LIBERTINE

SPORTMAX

AZEDE JEAN-PIERRE

UNDERCOVER

VACATION
Want to get away? Be it Hawaiian redux or Polynesiainspired, vacation prints make for postcard perfect patterns.

NATURAL
Scenes from nature, like splices of tree bark at Akris, added a graphic element to clothing and conveyed a sense of movement. Resembling paisley from afar, Kenzos school of fish invited a closer look.

NO. 21

MISSONI

AKRIS

KENZO

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

37

defining details
Details ran the gamut, from surface interest standouts like patches, embroidery and burnouts to visually inspiring wraps, folds and flaps. Unfinished edges, fringe and feathers brought attention to the seams and construction of the garment, while cutouts, sheer insets and mesh played with a skin vs. material contrast. Details are the simplest way to update classics and best sellers, or take the ordinary to the extraordinary.

Patches
DKNY

Embroidery
JONATHAN SAUNDERS

Burnout
FENDI

Raised Surfaces
MARNI

Plastic
SIMONE ROCHA

Folds
RAG & BONE

Wraps
PREEN

Flaps
GIANFRANCO FERR

Mesh
GUCCI

Knife Pleats
THAKOON

38 TOB ENEXT V O LU M E X 2 013 SPRING 2014-15

Feathers
THOMAS TAIT

Fringe
ALTUZARRA

Sheer Insets
VICTORIA BECKHAM

Unfinished Edges
CHANEL

Pockets with Oversized Flaps


PRADA

Cutouts
CLINE

Asymmetry
CHRISTOPHER KANE

Piping
TANYA TAYLOR

Paperbag Waist
AQUILANO.RIMONDI

Zippers
SAINT LAURENT

TOBENEXT VO LU M E X 2 013

tobereport.com

39

LESLIE J GHIZE 212-560-3765 lghize@tobereport.com


EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT

NANCY VALENTINO 212-560-3865 nvalentino@tobereport.com


MANAGING EDITOR

KATARZYNA ZYSKOWSKA 212-560-3866 katarzyna@tobereport.com


ART DIRECTOR

LORI HOLLIDAY BANKS 212-560-3603 lhbanks@tobereport.com


DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH & ANALYTICS

WHATS COMING

ROSEANNE MORRISON 212-560-3730 rmorrison@tobereport.com


FASHION DIRECTOR

THE TOBE REPORT

EDITORS ALYSSA CIRANNI 212-560-3611 aciranni@tobereport.com AMY LAN 212-560-3609 alan@tobereport.com OLIVIA PANELLA 212-560-3604 opanella@tobereport.com MARGARET WILLIAMSON 212-560-3608 mwilliamson@tobereport.com

Entertainment/Fashion

TOBE 463 Seventh Avenue, Suite 202, New York, New York 10018 T 212-867-8677 F 212-867-8662 www.tobereport.com
Copyright 2012 Tobe Associates, a member of The Doneger Group, 463 Seventh Ave., New York, N.Y. 10018 USA. All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system.

Rebecca Taylor

Christian Wijnants

Theyskens Theory

Altuzarra

Prabal Gurung

Potrebbero piacerti anche