BASIC SOP FOR CUTTING SECTION IN A P PA R E L M F G

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Inputs Details related to Fabric such as face side /Shade bands etc..
1. Shade swatches along with the face side swatch approved by the buyer should be received from the Go down and Merchandising dept respectively. 2. Shade segregation should be complying with the approved swatches. 3. Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to the standard. 4. Approval from H/office mandatory if the received lots of fabric are not matching to standards. 5. he appro al !ust ha e a chec"list form for all the tests ! approval standards w. r. t colour" wash" embroidery" printing" hand feel #. Shade band details #Shade A" $" %" &' after verification should be received from fabric inspector ! spreading team also should be given a copy for reference. $. Shade grouping also must be received from the fabric godown. %. Fabric details such as to face/bac(" nap direction) hand feel should be received from the godown duly approved by the merchant. &. Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be received" chec(ed ! then should proceed for laying. 1'. $oth ends of e ery roll should ha e stic"er consisting details of shade no" roll no" width and other relevant detail to enable easy identification of rolls.

(utting Forecast shade wise

*. %uttable +uantities from each lot and shade should be informed to mar(eting" ,A" ! $uyer ,A in advance for approval.

2. %utting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the brea(down of the -.

/ote0 1olls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included in a single lay or shipment or si2e range is minimi2ed.

Spreading of fabric for )ela*ation

*. 3nroll the fabric from rolls ! lay on table/flat area in concentric folds. 2. Allow for free rela4ation without any obstruction 5the period should be studied and pre determined by the Go down and the factory 6abric 7nspector 8. 1ecord the time of unrolling and ready time laying of each roll

4. 1ela4ation of the lay should be pre determined and will be around 89:hrs #for stretch fabrics ;if necessary especially for (nitted fabcrics

Fusing+Study of Fusing Shrin"age

*. 2. 8. ,. @. :. A. <. %ut fabric swatches with s+uare template of si2e *<= >*<=#or *2=4 *2=' 6use the fabric ! specified interlining at specified temperature" pressure ! time. Allow for cooling of the fused parts. %hec( for fusing shrin"age and record same 999this should be incorporated into the patterns ?as allowance for fusing=. %hec( for shade variation if any due to fusing. 7f you observe any shade variation" report to the %utting 7n %harge and initiate corrective action. %hec( the fusing for defects li(e ; peel off" bubbles etc. 7nform deviations/defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective action. ,A team has to educate/specify area of fusing" and temperature and pressure to be set for fusing9 6using tests must be carried out twice a day" once at the start of the machine then in the afternoon.

Fusing -achine++ .ests / Daily -aintenance0 BB 6using validation trial tests must be carried out regularly" when the new style begins fusing parameters has to be finalised #temperature" time ! pressure'. BB%hec( the fusing machine pressure rollers nip" affecting the fusing +uality" by passing a fabric strip through the machine ! by pulling it bac(ward 99the need for re alignment of the rollers pressure can be identified when this is done at three points i.e left/center/right of the belt. BB$y passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper through the machine the impression on the white paper can be observed. his would also will help us to determine any inconsistence of the roller pressure at leftBcenterB 1ight BB%leaning of the belt thoroughly and chec( for the re+uired temperature and pressure when the fabric/colour changes.

1ashing Shrin"age
*. -ercentage of washing shrin(age lengthwise and widthwise should be received from fabric section and recorded5the suppliers should ensure that the shrin(ages are as specified by the buyers #international standard limits are 8C lengthwise and 8C 9widthwise ' 2. 7dentify the face ! reverse side as per the swatch . Mar( the roll no" -." Style" ,%" a(a /o etc 8. 7f the washing shrin(age C is more that *.@C then the shrin(age test to be conducted for all the rolls/bales received #*DDC of rolls' 4. 7f there is a big variation in shrin(age" multiple mar(ers to be prepared.

6or E4ample0 6or absolute shrin(age C range of 8.D ; 4.@ C mar(er/patternF* ! for shrin(age of 4.@C 9 :C 9 Mar(er/-attern F 2 ; li(e that. BB%olor codification should be done to trace rolls of shrin(age groups " if the range is too large or inconsistent.

(utting of 2ilot )un

3b4ecti e0 carried out in order to !a"e the necessary a!end!ents in patterns/laying procedure/cutting procedure /cutting allowance/ !ar"er changes/panel inspection/nu!bering area/bundling si5e. *. %utting incharge" production manager ! 7E shall plan for the pilot ! bul( cutting. 6. -ilot run cutting shall be done as per the colour/si2e/+uantity advised by 6M/-M/7E.9 the selection of the rolls should co er all the shades and shrin"age groups 8. Ma(e a report of observations" comments" suggestions" amendments" simplification" ris( analysis" corrective action plan based on the above analysis. 4. .btain feed bac( from the sewing ! buying ,A and then act upon the necessary corrective action.

-ar"er drawing / 2reser ation of patterns

*. %arbon -apers could be used for duplication of mar(ers in case of non9%A& mar(ers.57n case of /i(e orders it is not allowed999efforts be made to obtain computer mar(ers from a close by plant.. 2. he pattern/mar(er being suggested by H. team is only a starting point for the cutting incharge to wor( on better fabric utilisation. %utting incharge should try out different mar(ers to ma4imi2e fabric 8. A -arts %hec(list has to be maintained by the mar(er drawer to ensure coverage of all parts in the lay. 4. -attern should be verified for re+uired allowances" tolerances" notches and embellishment placement mar(s" grain line" nap direction indications before mar(ing. @. %onstant usage of patterns results in wear ! tear of pattern" this has to be regularly monitored and worn out patterns to be replaced even daily if the case demands to ensure cutting +uality. #. %ello tape could be used to preserve the edges of the pattern boards ;for big 7uantities plastic boards could be used to duplicate the pattern for !ar"er drawing A. 7f the patterns are worn out" it has to be replicated ! cross9verified for re+uired measurements" allowances and tolerances. .n satisfying these factors the worn out pattern has to be replaced. <. Gorn out patterns are to be destroyed after conformation on the correctness of the specifications mentioned in tech pac(. H. Iay sheet on which the mar(er is drawn is torn in the middle ! stic(ers are pasted consisting details li(e -. no" Serial no" 6abric code no" Iot no. Hence easy identification of cut panels.

Lay Preparation:
*. Iayers shall collect lay slip" cutting Job card" lay sheet from the minusing person. 2. Iayers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details. 8. Iayers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay at a time "if any shade change is noticed then use separators9 i.e. lay sheet has to be placed for identification. 4. he cutting incharge has to decide upon the (ind of lay such as ; face9to9face" face to bac(" face up" face down" grain line" nap direction during the -- meeting stage upon the analysis of the garment. @. 3se lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used in the same lay5the shade category should be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also. 8ay 2recaution0 @. &uring laying the layers should chec( the lay9to9lay shade variation ! also center to selvedge variation as a part of online chec( procedure. :. ,% shall inspect the lay for lay tension" width" length" grain line" nap direction etc. 7. End wastage for laying of fabric shouldnKt be more than * cm.

9ul" (utting

*. Iay wise manpower re+uirement must be planned. 2. %utters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting" especially for parts with deep curves. 7f possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of movement of the cutter needs to be illustrated. 8. %utters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil lea(age" straightness of the blade" sharpening +uality" evenness in sharpening of the blade" dust accumulation before cutting. 4. %utters shall cut lay as per the mar( up using straight (nife m/c and move the parts to band (nife as per the discussion in -- meeting. @. ,% shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon the detection of defect. :. -repare *st cut bundle inspection report) notify fabric defects and cutting defects to 6M/-M. A. ,% should have a cutting chec(list against which *st bundle audit has to be conducted. %hec(list should have details of allowances" tolerance included in pattern" notches and embellishments placement mar(ings details. <. he si2e of the straight (nife for cutting lightweight fabrics should be := only.

H. Straight (nife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as fre+uently re+uired". his ensures even sharpening along the full *D. length of the (nife/blade. /ote07f sharpening of blade is uneven/inconsistent" it would result in uneven depth of notch mar(s and variation in cutting too.. **. 6or $and (nife cutting " patterns preferably made of tin should be used. *2. he patterns used for band (nife must be changed regularly upon monitoring the wear and tear on the pattern" due to fre+uent usage.

:u!bering
*. /umbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge" specifying the style F" colour" -.. /o." Serial /o." /o. .f garments cut" si2es. 2. All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined se+uence and at pre determined location. 8. /umbering stic(ers gum strength #Iight/Medium/Heavy' has to be decided (eeping in mind the (ind of fabric being cut.

2anel (hec"ing
*. he chec(ers carried out panel chec(ing by placing the cut panels on the pattern and chec(ing for accuracy of notches" grain lines" nap direction" croc(ed cutting" measurements ! tolerance. Mar( the pattern on a board #Acrylic. %ard $oard' along with L/9 tolerance as dotted lines around the outline mar(ed. -lace the cut panel #component' on this mar(ed area. 7t becomes easier to asses if the cut panel is within or out of tolerance. his inspection board has to verified and approved by pattern ma(er before usage. .nce the fabric is cut" they shall be bundled and mar(ed with inspection status. Ghen a bundle is chec(ed" they shall be mar(ed with green as ?c=. Ghen cut panels are inspected they shall be mar(ed with green as ?7=. All panels shall be chec(ed for fabric defects.

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9undling / Sorting
*. %uts shall be bundled in to a pre determined bundle si2e and will be segregated si2e wise as well as lot wise and stored in bags. 2. $ags shall be stored in rac(s batch wise. 8. 7ssues of cut bundles to batches be done out as per the loading plan 4. $undle tags will have details such as lot no" serial no" si2e" bundle no. @. Mention shade category #A" $" %' on the cut panels for easy identification and trac(ing. )e cutting / ;nd bit (ontrol0

<. Iayers shall mar( both end bits with roll number" cut9lot number" meter age 99all the bits every lay shall be bundled and given to recutting department. H. End9bits should be always laid face9up" no change in laying procedure without prior information from the incharge *D. End9bits should be placed separately #Shade wise' to avoid discrepancies" the roll ! ta(a number should be written and stac(ed separately **. 1e9%utting should be done from the same lot of fabric" matching the shade" to avoid shade variation.