CHAPTER 01

INTRODUCTION

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1.0 INTRODUCTION
Nowadays bleach wash on denim ga men!s has become a "e y #o#$la wash. I! is %o$nd !ha! mos! o% !he denim ga men!s a e washed !h o$gh bleach washing # ocess. As i! can gi"e "a io$s %ading e%%ec!s i!s #o#$la i!y is e"en mo e inc easing. I! is chemical ! ea!men! !ha! a%!e washing !he # o#e !ies o% !he ga men!s changes. The change is "e y high and !he changes a e im#o !an! %o $nde s!anding !he %$!$ e #e %o mance o% !he ga men!s. Ad"ance ga men!s Technology s!$dies on washing e%%ec!s and changes o% # o#e !ies o% ga men!s. O$ # o&ec! !he Com#a a!i"e E%%ec! Analysis be!ween 'leach (ash ) No mal (ash on Denim T o$se s is a #a ! o% # ac!ical *nowing o% !he Com#a a!i"e E%%ec! Analysis be!ween 'leach (ash ) No mal (ash on Denim T o$se s. 'leaching #owde is an o+idi,ing agen!. I! is $sed in washing %o colo o$! % om !he denim ga men!s. (e can achie"e de%e en! shade o% colo on ga men! i.e. Da *- .edi$m- /igh! shade. I! is also no!iced Desi,ing also c ea!e changes in # o#e !ies o% denim ga men!s.

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CHAPTER 0

LITERATURE REVIEW

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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0.1 DENI.1
Denim is a $gged co!!on !will !e+!ile- in which !he we%! #asses $nde !wo o mo e wa # !h eads. This !will wea"ing # od$ces !he %amilia diagonal ibbing o% !he %ab ic- which dis!ing$ishes denim % om co!!on d$c*. I! is cha ac!e is!ic o% any indigo denim !ha! only !he wa # !h eads a e dyed- whe eas !he we%! !h eads emain #lain whi!e. As a es$l! o% !he wa #2%aced !will wea"ing- one side o% !he %ab ic shows !he bl$e wa # !h eads- !he o!he side shows !he whi!e we%! !h eads. This is why &eans a e whi!e on !he inside and wha! ma*es denim3s %ading cha ac!e is!ics $ni4$e com#a ed !o e"e y o!he %ab ic.

0.1.1 ORI5IN1
The wo d 3denim3 comes % om !he name o% a s!$ dy %ab ic called se ge- o iginally made in Nimes6 ance- by !he And 7 %amily. O iginally called 8e ge de Nimes- !he name was soon sho !ened !o denim. Denim has been $sed in Ame ica since !he la!e 19!h cen!$ y. Denim was ! adi!ionally colo ed bl$e wi!h indigo dye !o ma*e bl$e :&eans:- !ho$gh :&ean: !hen deno!ed a di%%e en!- ligh!e co!!on !e+!ile; !he con!em#o a y $se o% &ean comes % om !he 6 ench wo d %o 5enoaI!aly <5enes=- whe e !he %i s! denim ! o$se s we e made.

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0.1.0 CHARACTERI8TIC8 O6 DENI. 6A'RIC1

1. (a # ya ns a e colo ed <$s$ally wi!h indigo- "a!- bl$e o s$l#h$ blac* =; 0. 8! $c!$ e 1 igh! hand o le%! hand !will- i.e. ,>s2!will o% 0>1 o ?>1cons! $c!ion; ?. Us$ally made o% co!!on ya ns o% coa se co$n! <@s- 10s- 1As- 1Bs- e!c = A. Coa se clo!h < weigh! lies be!ween B21A o,>s4.yds = and $sed %o #an! and wa m &ac*e!s; C. Ro!o ya n is $s$ally $sed.

0.1.? C/A88I6ICATION O6 DENI. 6A'RIC1

1. As #e weigh! >$ni! a ea. a. /igh! weigh! 1 A.C !o @ o,>s4. yd b. .edi$m weigh! 1 @ !o 10 o,>s4. yd c. Hea"y weigh!1 11 and abo"e. 0. As #e h$e and colo . a. Indigo "a!. b. 8$l#h$ blac*. c. Pigmen!. ?. As #e sl$b ya ns1 a. (a # ya ns a e sl$b only. b. (e%! ya n is sl$b only. c. C oss Ha!ch1 bo!h way sl$b i.e. bo!h wa # and we%! ya n a e sl$b. A. As #e %ab ic s! $c!$ e >design1 a. Plain. b. Twill <82!will- D2!will- he ingbone o ,ig,ag !will =

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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0.1.A (OR/D (IDE .AREET1

The dye ho$se a! !he (hi!e Oa* Co!!on .ill- in 5 eensbo o- No !h Ca olina. The Cone .ills Co #o a!ion which owned !he mill was %o me ly !he wo ld3s la ges! ma*e o% denim.

The dye ho$se a! !he (hi!e Oa* Co!!on .ill- in 5 eensbo o- No !h Ca olina. The Cone .ills Co #o a!ion which owned !he mill was %o me ly !he wo ld3s la ges! ma*e o% denim In 000@- !he wo ldwide denim ma *e! e4$aled U8D C1.B billion- wi!h demand g owing by CF and s$##ly g owing by 9F ann$ally. O"e C0F o% denim is # od$ced in Asia- s#eci%ically China- India- and 'angladesh. The %ollowing !able shows whe e !he wo ld3s denim mills a e loca!ed. Region Asia <China= Asia <o!he co$n! ies= No !h Ame ica E$ o#e /a!in Ame ica A% ica A$s! alia To!al Denim wide= .ills No. of Denim Mills 0G@ 10A G A1 AB 1C 1 <(o ld2 C1?

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0.0 DENI. THPE81

The di%%e en! !y#es o% Denim %ab ics incl$de co!!on se ge- aw denim- sel"age- s! e!ch- #oly- as well as amie Denim. The main di%%e en! among !hese denims is !ha! !hey a e blended wi!h di%%e en! ma!e ials; howe"e - !hey a e all %ashionable.

0.0.1 8E/IA5E DENI.1

All 6ab ic has a sel"edge <a wo ds de i"ed % om !he &oining o% :sel%: ) :edge:=- !his is !he na!$ al edge o% !he clo!h and con! a y !o some so$ ces does no! $n a"el o % ay. :8el"age denim: e%e s !o a $ni4$e closed sel"age <de i"ed % om !he /a!in 8al"a e- meaning :!o sec$ e!o ma*e sa%e:= !ha! is c ea!ed $sing one con!in$o$s c oss ya n <!he we%!= !ha! is #assed bac* and %o !h !h o$gh !he "e !ical wa # beams. This is ! adi!ionally %inished wi!h a con! as! we%!- mos! commonly ed which is why some!imes !his !y#e o% denim is e%e ed !o as :Red 8el"age:. This # ocess is only #ossible $sing a 8h$!!le loom. 8h$!!le looms wea"e a na owe ?0 inch %ab ic- which is on a"e age hal% !he wid!h o% !he mo e mode n sh$!!le less 8$l,e looms <in"en!ed in 1G0@ by !he 8$l,e b o!he s= and !h$s a longe #iece o% %ab ic is e4$i ed !o ma*e a #ai o% &eans <a## o+ima!ely ? ya ds=. To ma+imi,e yield- &ean whe e ! adi!ionally made wi!h a s! aigh! o$! seam !ha! $!ili,ed !he %$ll wid!h o% !he %ab ic incl$ding !his edge. This became no! only desi able b$! since !he # od$c!ion o% wide wid!h denim- a ma * o% # emi$m 4$ali!y as when wo n wi!h a !$ n $# !he !wo sel"ages whe e "isible a!he !han a $na!! ac!i"e o"e loc*ed edge.

0.0.0 RA( DENI.1

Dry o r ! "enim- as o##osed !o washed denim- is a denim %ab ic !ha! is no! washed a%!e being dyed d$ ing i!s # od$c!ion. O"e !ime- denim will gene ally %ade- which is o%!en conside ed desi able. D$ ing !he # ocess o% wea - i! is !y#ical !o see %ading on a eas !ha! gene ally ecei"e !he mos! s! ess- which incl$des !he $##e !highs <whis*e s=- !he an*les <s!ac*s= and behind !he *nees <honey combs=.

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A%!e being c a%!ed in!o an a !icle o% clo!hing- mos! denim is washed !o ma*e i! so%!e and !o ed$ce o elimina!e sh in*age- which co$ld ca$se an i!em !o no! %i! a%!e !he owne washes i!. In addi!ion !o being washed- non2d y denim is some!imes a !i%icially :dis! essed: !o # od$ce a wo n loo*.

.$ch o% !he a##eal o% %ac!o y dis! essed denim is !ha! i! loo*s simila !o d y denim !ha! has- wi!h !ime%aded. (i!h d y denim- howe"e - s$ch %ading is a%%ec!ed by !he body o% !he #e son who wea s !he &eans and !he ac!i"i!ies o% his>he daily li%e. This c ea!es wha! many en!h$sias!s %eel !o be a mo e na!$ al$ni4$e loo* !han dis! essed denim. To %acili!a!e !he na!$ al dis! essing # ocess- some wea e s o% d y denim will o%!en abs!ain % om washing !hei &eans %o mo e !han si+ mon!hs- !ho$gh i! is no! a necessi!y %o %ading.

0.0.? RA.IE DENI.1

Ramie denim is made wi!h !he #lan! %ib e amie as well as manmade %ib es li*e #olyes!e o s#ande+. The na!$ al %ib e gi"es i! a so%!e %eels and ed$ces w in*ling. The %ab ic is also s!ain esis!an!- abso ben! and doesn3! lose i!s sha#e. Ramie %ibe is #$ e whi!e in colo - l$s! o$s- mois!$ e abso ben!- and eadily dyed. The %ib e is s! onge !han %la+- co!!on- o wool. 6ab ic made % om amie %ib e is easily la$nde ed- inc easing in s! eng!h when we!- and does no! sh in* o lose i!s sha#e. I! d ies 4$ic*ly and becomes smoo!he and mo e l$s! o$s wi!h e#ea!ed washings. Ramie is esis!an! !o mildew and o!he !y#es o% mic o2o ganism a!!ac* and good %as!ness !o s$n. 'eca$se amie is b i!!les#inning i! is di%%ic$l! and wea"ing is com#lica!ed beca$se amie has a "e y hai y ya n s$ %ace.

0.0.A 8TRETCH DENI.1

8! e!ch denim $s$ally inco #o a!es an elas!ic com#onen! <s$ch as elas!ane= in!o !he %ab ic !o allow a deg ee o% gi"e in ga men!s. Only a small #e cen!age is e4$i ed wi!hin !he %ab ic <a## o+ima!ely ?F= !o allow a signi%ican! s! e!ch ca#aci!y o% a o$nd 1C #e cen!. 8! e!ch denim is %ab ic !ha! has a diagonal #a!!e n. I! is ac!$ally wo"en in s$ch a way as !o c ea!e diagonal : ibs: in !he %ab ic i!sel% <no! &$s! colo ed diagonal lines=. Thin* o% co do oy 2 !ha! is a %ab ic wi!h a "e !ical <$# and down= #a!!e n wo"en in!o i!. Twill is diagonal wea"ing. I% a !will %ab ic has e+! a
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:gi"e: so !ha! i! can e+#and <s! e!ch=- i! is s! e!ch !will. 8! e!ch denim o%!en e%e s !o !he %ab ic ha"ing a small #e cen!age o% /yc a >s#ande+ in i!- $s$ally 02AF and $s$ally abo$! G9F co!!on.

0.? PATTERN8 O6 6ADDIN51

6ades ca$sed by # olonged #e iods o% wea - wi!ho$! washing- ha"e become !he main all$ e %o aw denim. The %ading #a!!e ns a e a way o% #e sonali,ing !he ga men! %o each c$s!ome . These %ades a e ca!ego i,ed by ce !ain names. PATTERNS OF FADING

N #$r l %&oney'om(% f "es J (his*e s K 6aded s! ea*s !ha! s$ o$nd !he c o!ch a ea o% !he denim. J Combs K Also *nown- as Lhoney combsM a e !he s! ea*s o% %aded lines !ha! a e %o$nd behind !he *nee. J 8!ac*s K P od$ced by ha"ing !he inseam o% !he denim hemmed a %ew inches longe !han ac!$al leg leng!h. The e+! a %ab ic s!ac*s on !o# o% !he shoe ca$sing a %ade !o %o m a o$nd !he an*le !o cal% a ea o% !he denim.
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J T ain T ac*s K a##ea s on !he o$! seams o% !he denim. This %ade showcases !he sel"edge by %o ming !wo se!s o% %ades !ha! esemble ! ain ! ac*s.

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0.A 6/O( CHART O6 DENI. PRODUCTION1

8#inning N 'ale (a #ing N Ro#e Dyeing N /ong Chain 'eaming N 8i,ing N (ea"ing N 6inishing N Ins#ec!ion ) 6olding N Pac*ing N Dis#a!ch

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0.C .ANU6ACTURIN5 O6 DENI.1

The !e m :Denim: has o igina!ed % om !he ci!y o% Nimes in 6 ance whe e :se ge de Nimes: was man$%ac!$ ed. Denim is made % om a "a! dye- !he Indigo dye- which is a##lied !o co!!on %ab ic in loosely held %o m in laye s. As %a as man$%ac!$ ing # ocess o% denim is conce ned- i! is simila !o !ha! o% 5 ey %ab ic $# !o !he # ocess o% wea"ing wi!h !he only di%%e ence !ha! in case o% Denim 6ab ic- i! is dyed a! !he s!age o% si,ing whe e as in case o% 5 ey 6ab ic- !he decision ega ding dyeing s!age de#ends $#on !he %inished # od$c!. The de!ails o% each # ocess ae gi"en below1 )PINNING* The ini!ial s!age o% denim # od$c!ion is O#ening and 'lending. O#ening begins wi!h baled co!!on %ibe being se#a a!ed in!o small !$%!s. A blend o% co!!on %ibe s is made on each o#ening line. These bales a e selec!ed $sing U8DA High Iol$me Ins! $men! <HII= da!a- and PCCA3s $ni4$e com#$!e blending so%!wa e # od$ces o#!imal ya n s! eng!h. Co!!on is deli"e ed by ai s$c!ion % om !he O#ening and 'lending lines- !h o$gh addi!ional cleaning and blending machines- !o !he Ca ds. The ma&o %$nc!ions o% Ca ding a e !o emo"e %o eign ma!!e and sho ! %ibe s- %o m !he co!!on in!o a web and con"e ! !he web in!o a o#e2li*e %o m *nown as a sli"e . The d awing # ocess # od$ces a single- $ni%o m sli"e % om si+ ca d sli"e s. The addi!ional blending#a alleling o% %ibe s and cleaning in !his # ocess # od$ces a sli"e %o O#en End and Ring 8#inning. 6o Ring 8#inning- howe"e - !he sli"e m$s! #ass !h o$gh an addi!ional # ocess called Ro"ing. Co!!on 6ibe s a e %o med in!o a ya n by cen! i%$gal ac!ion in O#en2 End 8#inning. Indi"id$al %ibe s a e laid down in !he g oo"e o% a %as! s#inning o!o and !wis!ed in!o ya n. A%!e !he co!!on %ibe s a e s#$n in!o ya n!he ya n is wo$nd in!o a la ge #ac*age. OPEN END )PINNING* The O#en End 8#inning .achines ha"e obo!s on each side which a$!oma!ically #ieces $# < e#ai s b o*en ends=. On a di%%e en! ! ac*- !hey ha"e ano!he obo! !ha! a$!oma!ically do%%s < emo"es %$ll #ac*ages= and s!a !s $# a new #ac*age. The si,e and 4$ali!y o% each ya n end a e moni!o ed by !he 'a co P o%ile 8ys!em !o ens$ e $ni%o mi!y.

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RING )PINNING* In Ring 8#inning- !he s#inning % ames ecei"e Ro"ing "ia a ! ansi! sys!em % om !he o"ing machine. Ha n is %o med % om co!!on %ibe s !ha! a e !wis!ed !oge!he a%!e being d a%!ed by #assing be!ween !h ee s!eel olls and !h ee $bbe olls. The ya n !hen is w a##ed on a bobbin as i! s#ins on a s#indle by $se o% a ! a"ele . The ela!ionshi# be!ween oll s#eeds- ! a"ele s#eeds and s#indle s#eeds con! ols !he amo$n! o% !wis! in !he ya n. Ends down le"els and # od$c!ion in%o ma!ion a e ga!he ed by !he Us!e Ring E+#e ! 8ys!em. The s#inning % ames a$!oma!ically do%% bobbins %$ll o% ya n and send !hem !o #ac*age winding.

AC5 also has !he ca#aci!y !o # od$ce Amsle O#en2End ya n- also *nown as 6a$+ Ring 8#$n ya n. This !echnology enables AC5 !o im#a ! "a io$s sl$b #a!!e ns in!o an O#en2End ya n. Denim made % om !his !y#e o% ya n has ya n cha ac!e and s$ %ace in!e es! !ha! canno! be achie"ed wi!h ! adi!ional O#en2End ya n. FA+RIC WEAVING* . Grey , rn on Cones No mally ya ns ecei"ed %o wea"ing in cone %o ms a e ei!he % om ing s#inning o % om o#en end s#inning in single o do$ble %old as e4$i ed. 6o wea"ing- ya n $sed is ca!ego i,ed in!o1

(a # ya n (e%! ya n

No mally %o (ea"ing- ya n $sed as wa # sho$ld be s$%%icien!ly s! ong !o wi!hs!and s! ess and s! ains e+e !ed d$ ing wea"ing o#e a!ions. Hence !hey a e ha"ing Co$n! 8! eng!h P od$c! <C8P= and %$ !he si,ed !o inc ease i!s s! eng!h. The we%! ya n is di ec!ly $sed on wea"ing machines and in some cases- i% e4$i ed- is ewo$nd also so as !o enhance i!s #e %o mance in wea"ing. (. W r-ing on )e'#ion l. Dire'# W r-ing The wa # ya n is e4$i ed !o be %ed in!o a shee! %o m !o !he wea"ing machines. A! wa #ing- !he indi"id$al cones a e #$! in!o !he c eel <!he n$mbe o% cones de#ends $#on %ab ic cons! $c!ion= and ya n % om indi"id$al cones is #$lled !oge!he in shee! %o m- wo$nd on a ba el called wa #ing beams <%o Di ec! wa #ing= o on wea"ing beams <%o 8ec!ional (a #ing=. No mally i% wa # shee! is wi!h #a!!e ns o% di%%e en! colo ed ya ns i! is # ocessed on sec!ional wa #ing machine.

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'. )i/ing of y rn in )e#. +e m #o +e m Posi#ion The ob&ec! o% 8i,ing is !o im# o"e !he s! eng!h o% ya n by chemically binding !he %ib es wi!h each o!he and also im# o"e $#on i!s % ic!ion esis!ance ca#aci!y by chemically coa!ing !he s$ %ace o% ya n>%ib es. 6$ !he - n$mbe o% !h eads in wa #e s beam shee! is "e y less agains! n$mbe o% !h eads e4$i ed in whole wid!h o% %ab ic. Hence m$l!i#lica!ion o% shee!s by d awing ya ns !oge!he % om many wa # beams and again ma*ing one shee! is also #e %o med on si,ing machine. On si,ing- no mally- 9210 F si,e ma!e ial on wa # !h ead is a##lied. This im# o"emen! in s! eng!h and % ic!ional esis!ance cha ac!e is!ic o% wa # ya n is essen!ial beca$se d$ ing wea"ing- ya n has !o $nde go se"e e s! ain ) s! ess as well as % ic!ional o#e a!ions. ". Dr !ing0in (ea"ing is basically in!e lacemen! o% !wo se!s i.e. wa # and we%! !h eads in desi ed se4$ence and #a!!e n. To ob!ain !his in!e lacemen!- wa # ya n shee! is bi%$ ca!ed ) o#ened in !he %o m o% !wo laye s> shee! and we%! !h ead is inse !ed be!ween so o#ened !wo wa # shee!s. This o#e a!ion is called shedding. !o #e %o m shedding !he wa # ya n needs !o be #assed !h o$gh healed eyes o% !he healed sha%!s- !his o#e a!ion is called as d awing2in. e. +e m G i#ing or 1no##ing on Loom The d awn wea"e s beams a e %i+ed on wea"ing machines- !h eads a e !ied and healed sha%!s a e co$#led. This o#e a!ion is called 'eam 5ai!ing. I% $nd awn wa # !h eads a e di ec!ly *no!!ed !o !he !h eads o% %inished beams- i! is called Eno!!ing. These o#e a!ions a e essen!ial beca$se no mally wea"e s beam can ca y only ce !ain leng!h o% wa # shee! on i! and when so wo"en- whole leng!h is con"e !ed !o !he %ab ic by wea"ing machine. 6$ !he wa # leng!h is e4$i ed !o be %ed which can be done by *no!!ing o gai!ing o!he beams on wea"ing machine. f. We 2ing As s!a!ed ea lie - wea"ing is in!e lacing !wo se!s o% ya n and ma*ing %ab ic. One se! is called wa # !h ead which is in shee! %o m- !he o!he one is called we%! !h ead which is inse !ed be!ween !wo laye s o% wa # shee! by means o% a s$i!able ca ie i.e. 8h$!!le- P o&ec!ile- Ra#ie - Ai c$ en!- (a!e c$ en!- e!c. De#ending $#on !he !y#e o% !he wea"ing machines.

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The di%%e en! !y#es o% !echnologies a"ailable %o wea"ing machines a e b ie%ly e+#lained as below1

Con"en!ional 8h$!!le (ea"ing 8ys!em by O dina y /ooms o A$!oma!ic /ooms. 8h$!!le less (ea"ing 8ys!em by Ai &e! >(a!e &e!>Ra#ie >P o&ec!ile

8h$!!le loom is a con"en!ional Technology wi!h m$ch less # od$c!ion on acco$n! o% slow s#eed and e+cessi"e wea and !ea o% machine y. This sh$!!le loom !echnology has now become obsole!e. Denim is wo"en !h o$gh 8h$!!le less (ea"ing 8ys!em by $sing GB DAO2e Ty#e Tsoda*oma Co #o a!ionPs Ai &e! looms o a#ie looms o # o&ec!ile looms. These looms a e dis!ing$ished by we%! inse !ion me!hodwhich is b ie%ly disc$ssed he e$nde . AIR3ET LOOM) * These !y#es o% looms ado#! !he la!es! de"elo#men! in (ea"ing Technology whe e we%! inse !ion is done wi!h !he hel# o% com# essed ai . A "e y high we%! inse !ion a!e $# !o 1900 me!e #e min$!e is achie"ed. Com#a ed !o a#ie and # o&ec!ile looms- !hese looms a e less "e sa!ile b$! a e economical and a e $sed in mass !e+!ile # od$c!ion $ni! li*e denim. FINI)4ING* . Grey F (ri' The %inally wo"en %ab ic o 5 ey 6ab ic- as i! is #o#$la ly called; wo$nd on a clo!h oll is !a*en o$! % om wea"ing machines a! ce !ain in!e "als and chec*ed on ins#ec!ion machines %o #ossibili!ies o% any wea"ing %a$l!. I% s$ch %a$l!s a e seen anywhe e in %ab ic d$ ing ins#ec!ion- ce !ain co ec!i"e s!e#s a e !a*en a! wea"ing- wa #ing- si,ing- e!c so !ha! !hey can be minimi,ed in s$bse4$en! # od$c!. This is a 4$ali!y con! ol e+e cise. (. Denim F (ri' Denim 6ab ics wo"en o% 100F co!!on wo$ld wa # %aced co!!on %ab ic wi!h ? + 1 !will cons! $n2dyed. The loo* and 4$ali!y o% !he Denim di%%e s % om #lan! !o #lan!. No mally !he man$%ac!$ ing. be "e y s! ong and d$ able. T adi!ionally 'l$e Denim is $c!ion wi!h wa # being dyed in a solid colo and we%! le%! 6ab ic shall im# o"e a%!e dyeing- !he # ocess o% which # ocess o% dyeing dic!a!es !he !echnology o% Denim

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 15

The dyeing %o Denim 6ab ic ha##ens a! !he si,ing s!age. 5ene ally !he e a e !wo mos! #o#$la me!hods o% dyeing Denim 6ab ic. They a e1

Ro#e Dyeing 8hee! Dyeing

A com#any can ado#! any o% !he me!hods. In co$n! ies li*e India 8hee! Dyeing .e!hod is commonly $sed %o man$%ac!$ e o% i!s Denim 6ab ics- which has %ollowing ad"an!ages o"e Ro#e Dyeing .e!hod1

The !echnology is less ca#i!al in!ensi"e. The !echnology is a # o"en one. The cos! o% # od$c!ion is lowe . The # ocess !ime is lowe . The 8hee! Dyeing machines a e "e y easy !o o#e a!e.

The only de%ec! in 8hee! dyeing is !ha! !he e is a # oblem o% cen!e !o sel"edge shade "a ia!ion. '. )&ee# Dyeing Pro'ess This # ocess elimina!es a %ew in!e media!e # ocesses o% !he o#e dyeing. The ya n shee! is washed wi!h chemicals s$ch as ca$s!ic and washing soda and a%!e s4$ee,ing !he e+cess wa!e ; !he ya n shee! is allowed !o #ass !h o$gh Dyeing T o$ghs one !ime %o o+ida!ion and de"elo#men! o% dye on ya n. A%!e dyeing- !he dyed ya n is washed again wi!h % esh wa!e %o !wo2!h ee !imes and %inally s4$ee,ed be%o e allowing i! !o #ass !h o$gh si+ d ying cylinde s. The dyed ya n en!e s !he s!a ching de"ice and si,ing is done. A%!e si,ing- !he si,ed wa # beam goes %o wea"ing. A%!e wea"ing- !he wo"en Denim 6ab ics goes %o "a io$s %inishing # ocesses consis!ing o% b $shing- singeing- washing- im# egna!ion %o d essing and d ying. ' $shing and singeing sho$ld elimina!e im#$ i!ies and hel# !o e"en !he s$ %ace o% !he %ab ic. D essing eg$la!es !he hand and igidi!y o% !he %ab ic while com# essi"e sh in*ing eg$la!es i!s dimensional s!abili!y. E"en !oday Denim 6ab ic wi!ho$! Indigo Dyeing is no! called a$!hen!ic Denim. Ini!ially when Denim 6ab ic en!e ed !he %ashion ma *e!- Denim man$%ac!$ e s we e $sing Na!$ al Indigo Dye- which was cos!ly and gi"ing a na!$ al %inish. Tho$gh 8yn!he!ic Indigo Dye has g ad$ally e#laced Na!$ al Indigo Dye- some $no gani,ed man$%ac!$ e s s!ill # e%e !he la!!e and a!! ac! # emi$m a%!e b anding !hem LNa!$ al Dye UsedM.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 16

". M 5ing6U(ea"ing o% %ab ics on s$ch m$l!i si,es is no! economical- hence a s!anda d wid!h %ab ics is !hen sen! !o ma*ing $#. 6ab ics a e c$! in!o !he desi ed wid!h as #e si,e e4$i ed on !his machine. Denim 6ab ic and 5 ey 6ab ic a e !ho o$ghly chec*ed %o "a io$s !y#es o% de%ec!s s$ch as1

(ea"ing De%ec!s Une"en Dyeing 'leaching and Dyeing De%ec! Oil 8!ain Pa!ches

He e !he %inal # od$c! is ca!ego i,ed 4$ali!y2wise. The # od$c!s !hen %o$nd o*ay a e seg ega!ed and sen! !o #ac*aging de#a !men! whe eas de%ec!i"e ones a e sen! %o co ec!ion. A%!e ins#ec!ion- !he se!s a e w a##ed wi!h #oly!hene co"e s and sen! %o dis#a!ch as #e b$ye Ps s#eci%ica!ions. DI)PATC4 * Rolls and se!s so %o med and #ac*ed as #e b$ye sP e4$i emen!s a e !hen sen! %o %inal dis#a!ches.

0.B (EAIE DE8I5N81

The aising and lowe ing se4$ence o% wa # !h eads in "a io$s se4$ences gi"es ise !o many #ossible wea"e s! $c!$ es1

Plain wea"e1 #lain- and ho#sac*s- #o#lin- !a%%e!a- #o$l!- #ibiones and g osg ain. Twill wea"e1 !hese a e desc ibed by we%! %loa! %ollowed by wa # %loa!- a anged !o gi"e diagonal #a!!e n. 0>1 !will- ?>? !will- 1>0 !will. These a e so%!e %ab ics !han #lain wea"es. Denim is de i"a!i"es o% !will wea"e. 8a!in wea"e1 sa!ins and sa!eenPs. Com#le+ com#$!e 2gene a!ed in!e lacing. Pile %ab ics1 s$ch as "el"e!s and "el"e!eenPs.

A ?>1 !will-as $sed in denim.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 17

0.@ DHIN5 6OR DENI.1

Denim %ab ic dyeing is di"ided in!o !wo ca!ego ies; indigo dyeing and s$l#h$ dyeing. Indigo dyeing # od$ces ! adi!ional bl$e colo s o shades simila !o bl$e colo s. 8$l#h$ dyeing <also called colo denim= is $sed !o c ea!e s#ecial!y blac* colo s and o!he colo s li*e #in*- g ey- $s!- m$s!a d- g een- and also im# o"e !he 4$ali!y. Indigo is !he oldes! and mo e $seable dyes %o denim dyeing .The s#ecial cha ac!e o% !his %ab ic is only !he wa # !h ead is dyed. Indigo dye is an o ganic com#o$nd wi!h a dis!inc!i"e bl$e colo .His!o ically- indigo was a na!$ al dye e+! ac!ed % om #lan!s- and !his # ocess was im#o !an! economically beca$se bl$e dyes we e once a e. Nea ly all indigo dye # od$ced !oday Q se"e al !ho$sand !ons each yea Q is syn!he!ic. I! is !he bl$e o% bl$e &eans.

The classical &eans we e # od$ced o$! o% indigo2dyed Denim %ab ic. The s#ecial cha ac!e o% !his %ab ic K only !he wa # !h ead is dyed K ma*es i! necessa y !o ca y o$! dyeing in ya n %o m. The ya ns a##lied %o Denim we e e+cl$si"ely # od$ced on ing s#inning machines in %o me !imes. The de"elo#men! o% OE <o#en end= ya ns K by a##lying smalle o!o s wi!h a s#inning s#eed o% $# !o 000 m>min K has led !o !he a##lica!ion o% OE o!o ya ns bo!h %o wa # and we%!. The ya ns a##lied %o wea"ing m$s! be o% high 4$ali!y1 a high %ibe %o s! eng!h- eg$la i!y as well as a small #a ! o% sho ! s!a#led co!!on %ibe s belong !o !he basic %ea!$ es o% !he denim ya n. 6o eg$la &eans 4$ali!ies !he wa # ya ns a e s#$n in a %ineness o% C0 !o G0 !e+- %o !he we%! ya n !he %ineness anges a e mainly @C !o 100 !e+. I% Denim is made o$! o% Tencel o .odal es#ecially %o &eans shi !s !he %inenesses a e $# !o 0C !e+. Indigo- s$l#h$ and indan!h ene a e mainly $sed in !he dyeing # ocess. Two me!hods a e a##licable %o con!in$o$s dyeing wi!h indan!h ene dyes1 a#id dyeing and "a! dyeing. (hile # ocessing !he basic colo ed denim- eac!i"e dyes a e $sed and %i+ed wi!h ho! ca$s!ic soda sol$!ion. The dyeing # ocess is mainly in%l$enced by !he dyes!$%% cha ac!e is!ics- dyeing !em#e a!$ e and necessa y chemicals $sed in !he # ocess. Indigo dye is !he mos! #o#$la choice as i! has good de#!h o% shade and s$i!able $bbing and washing %as!ness. (hen co!!on ya n is dyed wi!h indigo- i! lea"es a ing2dyeing e%%ec!- beca$se o% which !he o$!e laye o% wa # ya n is coa!ed wi!h indigo- and !he co e o% !he ya n emains $ndyed. This gi"es !he denim ga men! a $ni4$e R%aded loo*P and a ich bl$e shade a%!e e#ea!ed $se and wash. O iginally- !he wa # ya ns o ends we e #$! !h o$gh !he dye ba!h side by side !o %o m a shee! o% ya nwhich #assed con!in$o$sly !h o$gh se"e al dye ba!hs- s4$ee,e olle s o ai ing se4$ences. Howe"e - i% !he e we e b ea*s in !he ya n <and !he e wo$ld be- as each ya n had !o !a*e !he !ension o% being #$lled !h o$gh !hese # ocesses "i !$ally on i!s own=- !he dyeing # ocess had !o be s!o##ed. The ya ns wo$ld be !hen mended- o else i! wo$ld lead !o "e y bad !angling. These s!o##ages wo$ld in !$ n ca$se la ge shade "a ia!ions- and !he ya n b ea*s wo$ld show $# as bad %a$l!s in !he %ab ic. Now- an in%ini!ely mo e e%%icien! sys!em has been in! od$ced.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 18

8#ecial a!!en!ion shall be #aid he e !o Indigo; !he S*ing o% dyes!$%%sM since i! #lays an im#o !an! ole in ob!aining !he &eans e%%ec!. Indigo belongs !o !he ca!ego y o% a!e insol$ble dyes!$%%s. I! was %i s! men!ioned in a boo* 1? 'C; a! !ha! !ime !he name Indian bl$e indica!ed !he co$n! y !he colo came % om. I! is said !o ha"e been $sed %o dyeing in India and China 0000 yea s 'C al eady.

INDIGO REDUCTION C1BH10O0N0 T Na080OA T ANaOH U C1BH10O0N0Na0 T 0Na08O? T 0H0O OXIDATION REACTION Na080OA T O0 T 0NaOH . Na08OA T Na08O? T H0O T C1BH10O0N0Na0 T V O0 T H0O T 8odi$m Hyd os$l%ide C1BH10O0N0 T 0NaOH

0.9 HO( TO .AEE INDI5O 8O/UTION1

In a !an* o% 1000 li!e s1 a= Ta*e A00 li!e s o% wa!e <so%!= b= Add se!amol ws22W A g>l <s!i ing= < dis#e sing sol$!ion= c= Add 100 *g o% indigo < a! 1.9 F shade 2see !he indigo calc$la!ions2 s!i ing= d= Add ca$s!ic soda 22W s!i ing <%o sol$bilising and #h= e= Allow !o cool i! %o 0>? ho$ s %= Add hyd os$l#hide <as ed$cing agen!= g= .a*e !he sol$!ion !o 1000 l by adding wa!e . I% #H is %l$c!$a!ing- i% i! is W 11.@ !hen hyd o is added <02? *g=- i% <X11.0= !hen ca$s!ic is added. 6o 100 *g o% IndigoCa$s!ic Re4$i ed U G0 *g Hyd o Re4$i ed U 90 *g

dyed wi!h indigo dye

Ca*e o% indigo. /a ge #iece a## o+ima!ely 0 cm. Used as Ha n indigo dye.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 19

0.G 5AR.ENT (A8HIN51

(ashing # ocess in which hea"y o sligh! soiling is emo"ed and ! ans%e ed !o !he wa!e in !he %o m o% a sol$!ion o dis#e sion. (ashing has !he e%%ec! o% cleaning s$ %aces. The es$l!ing e%%ec! is se"e al #hysical> chemical # ocesses. 5a men! washing is !he bes! !o$ch o% a ga men!. 8ame !y#e o% ga men!s can # od$ce se"e al e%%ec!s %o se"e al wash. To c ea!e wash loo* a##ea ance- seems !he new !o$ch o% %ashion. 8o- The !echnology which is $sed !o modi%y !he a##ea ance- o$!loo* com%o ! abili!y ) %ashion o% !he ga men!s is called ga men! washing.

0.G.1 PURPO8E O6 5AR.ENT (A8HIN51

P$ #ose o% washing>'es! wash loo* is !he bes! !o$ch o% a ga men! 2This may be e+#lained in !he %ollowing way12 (ashing # ocess o% ga men! is done !o c ea!e wash loo* a##ea ance. A%!e washing !he ga men!s c ea!e a new loo*s which seems !he new !o$ch o% %ashion. 'y !he washing !echni4$e- %aded>old loo*- colo o !in!ed a%%ec! is c ea!ed in !he ga men! which also seems !he bes! !o$ch o% ga men!s. (ashing !echni4$e c ea!e new %ashion s$ch as !agging- g inding- des! oy- 'las!ing- whis*e ing#e manen! w in*le- dee# dye- !ie dye- # .# s# ay- hand c a##ing- #.# s#ooning e!c. (hich is also seems !he bes! !o$ch o% ga men!s. The main and im#o !an! %$nc!ion o% washing is !o ed$ce si,e ma!e ials as a es$l! !he ga men! become si,e % ee and become so%! hand %eel. (hen !hese so%! ga men!s a e !o$ched !hen i! seems !o bes! !o$ch o% ga men!s. To a!! ac!ion !he c$s!ome s>'$ye by di%%e en! !y#es o% 6ashionable washing and ma *e! de"elo#men!s. D$e !o washing- sh in*age occ$ s in !he ga men!s. The e is no #ossibili!y o% %$ !he sh in*age o% wash ga men!s. Any di !- s#o! o ge m i% added in !he ga men!s d$ ing man$%ac!$ ing is also emo"ed d$e !o washing.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 20

0.G.0 E66ECT8 O6 5AR.ENT8 (A8HIN51

1. Change !he a##ea ance o% !he ga men!s. 0. Change in si,e. ?. Change in colo . A. Change o$!loo* o% !he ga men!s. C. Change in com%o !. B. Change in design. @. Change in %ashion- e!c.

0.G.? /I.ITATION8 O6 5AR.ENT8 (A8HIN51

/i*e o!he # ocesses !he ga men!s washing is also no! wi!ho$! some limi!a!ions. They incl$ded as below2

G rmen#s si/e '& nge* 8i,e change !a*es #lace d$e !o sh in*age # o#e !ies o% %ab ic. The amo$n! o% sh in*age # o#e !ies o% %ab ic de!e mines !he si,e change o% !he ga men!s. )i/e m #eri l is - r#ly remo2e"* Un%i+ed dyes may emain on !he s$ %ace o% !he ga men!s and i! is necessa y !o emo"e com#le!ely a%!e washing.

0.10 DENI. (A8HIN51

Denim washing is aes!he!ic %inish gi"en !o denim %ab ic !o enhance !he demand and !o # o"ide s! eng!h. D y denim as o##osed !o washed denim is a denim %ab ic !ha! is no! washed a%!e being dyed d$ ing i!s # od$c!ion. .$ch o% !he a##eal o% d y denim lies in !he %ac! !ha! wi!h !ime %ab ic will %ade in a manne simila !o !ha! which a !i%icially dis! essed denim a!!em#!s !o e#lica!e. (i!h d y denim howe"e s$ch %ading is a%%ec!ed by !he body o% !he #e son who wea s &eans and !he ac!i"i!ies o% !hei daily li%e. This c ea!es wha! many %ell !o be mo e na!$ al- $ni4$e loo* !han # e dis! essed denim. I! is a new !echnology by which o$!loo*; si,e; com%o ! abili!y and %ashion o% a ga men! a e changed o modi%ied. This !echnology was %i s! a##ea ed in 'angladesh in 1G99.'e%o e !ha! washing was ca ied o$! only in Hong Eong and 8inga#o e - i.e. a%!e sewing ga men!s we e sen! !o ab oad %o washing and again b o$gh! he e bac* %o %inishing - !agging and #ac*ing . As a es$l!- e+! a o"e head cos! <% eigh!- washing cha ge- !ime cons$m#!ions= was d awn in.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 21

T4E C4ANGE) OCCUR DUE TO T4E FOLLOWING ACTION) * 1. .echanical > $bbing > ab asion be!ween ga men!s !o ga men!s. 0. 5a men!s !o machine; and ?. Chemical ac!ion

0.10.1 THPE8 O6 DENI. (A8HIN51

Denim washes a e o% %ollowing !wo !y#e 1K 1. Chemical washes

Denim bleaching En,yme wash Acid wash

1. .echanical washes

8!one wash .ic o sanding

0.10.0 .AYOR PROCE88 8TEP8 O6 DENI. (A8HIN51

1. P e2! ea!men! <Desi,ing- Rinsing- 8co$ ing e!c= 0. En,yme o 8!one wash ?. Clean $# !o ad&$s! !he desi e e%%ec! A. 'leaching C. Tin!ing > Dyeing B. 8and 'las!ing @. 8o%!ening ) .$ch .o eZ.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 22

0.11 '/EACH (A8HIN51

'leach wash o ligh! s!one wash e%e s !o ligh! bl$e shades o% denim. The addi!ional s!e# is bleaching !o s!one wash. This bleaching is $s$ally ca ied o$! by s! ong o+idi,ing agen!s. In ind$s! y- mos! widely $sed chemicals a e sodi$m hy#o2chlo i!e- calci$m hy#o2chlo i!e- hyd ogen #e o+ide and #o!assi$m #e manga!e.

0.11.1 O'YECT8 O6 '/EACH (A8H1

Inc easing !he deg ee o% whi!eness. D$e !o washing- sh in*age occ$ s in !he ga men!s. The e is no #ossibili!y o% %$ !he sh in*age o% wash ga men!s. Remo"al o% colo ed im#$ i!ies. 'y !he bleach washing !echni4$e- %aded>old loo*- colo o !in!ed a%%ec! is c ea!ed in !he ga men! which also seems !he bes! !o$ch o% ga men!s. To c ea!e new %ashion s$ch as !agging- g inding- des! oy- 'las!ing- whis*e ing- #e manen! w in*le- dee# dye- !ie dye- # .# s# ay- hand c a##ing- #. # s#ooning e!c. (hich is also seems !he bes! !o$ch o% ga men!s. To achie"e b$ye washing s!anda d.

0.11.0 THPE8 O6 '/EACHIN5 A5ENT81

A bleaching agen! is a s$bs!ance !ha! can whi!en o decolo i,e o!he s$bs!ances. 'leaching agen!s essen!ially des! oy ch omos#he es <!he eby emo"ing !he colo =- "ia !he o+ida!ion o ed$c!ion o% !hese abso bing g o$#s. Th$s- bleaches can be classi%ied as ei!he o+idi,ing agen!s o ed$cing agen!s. Ty-e of +le '&ing Agen#s a. O+ida!i"e 'leaching Agen!s b. Red$c!i"e 'leaching Agen!s c. En,yma!ic 'leaching Agen!s

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 23

0.11.? '/EACHIN51
'leaching is chemical ! ea!men! em#loyed %o !he emo"al o% na!$ al colo ing ma!!e % om !he s$bs! a!e. The so$ ce o% na!$ al colo is o ganic com#o$nds wi!h con&$ga!ed do$ble bonds - by doing chemical bleaching !he discolo a!ion !a*es #lace by !he b ea*ing !he ch omos#he es - mos! li*ely des! oying !he one o mo e do$ble bonds wi!h in !his con&$ga!ed sys!em. The ma!e ial a##ea s whi!e a%!e !he bleaching. Na!$ al %ib es- i.e. co!!on- wool- linen e!c. a e o%%2whi!e in colo d$e !o colo bodies # esen! in !he %ib e. The deg ee o% o%%2whi!eness "a ies % om ba!ch2!o2ba!ch. 'leaching !he e%o e can be de%ined as !he des! $c!ion o% !hese colo bodies. (hi!e is also an im#o !an! ma *e! colo so !he whi!es! whi!e has comme cial "al$e. Hellow is a com#onen! o% de i"ed shades. 6o e+am#le- when yellow is mi+ed wi!h bl$e- !he shade !$ ns g een. A consis!en! whi!e base %ab ic has eal "al$e when dyeing ligh! !o medi$m shades beca$se i! is m$ch easie !o e# od$ce shade ma!ches on a consis!en! whi!e bac*g o$nd !han on one !ha! "a ies in amo$n! o% yellow. 'leaching may be !he only # e#a a!o y # ocess o i! may be $sed in con&$nc!ion wi!h o!he ! ea!men!se.g. desi,ing- sco$ ing and me ce i,ing. The combina!ion o% s$ch ! ea!men!s %o an indi"id$al si!$a!ion will de#end on !he igo o$sness o% !he # e#a a!ion s!anda d and economic %ac!o s wi!hin !he "a io$s o#!ions. O!he chemicals will be $sed in addi!ion !o !he bleaching agen!. These se "e "a io$s %$nc!ions s$ch as !o ac!i"a!e !he bleaching sys!em- !o s!abili,e o con! ol !he a!e o% ac!i"a!ion- !o gi"e we!!ing and de!e gen! ac!ion- o !o se4$es!e me!allic im#$ i!ies. This sec!ion gi"es conside a!ion !o !he selec!ion o% bleaching agen!s and !o !he ole o% !he "a io$s chemicals $sed in con&$nc!ion. The #$ #ose o% bleaching is !o emo"e colo ed im#$ i!ies % om !he %ib e and inc ease !he whi!eness le"el o% %ab ic.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 24

0.10 6UNCTION O6 CHE.ICA/8 IN DE8IDIN5 AND '/EACH (A8HIN51

7)ODA A)4* 8oda ash c ea!es al*aline medi$m %o !he b ea*down o% #igmen! dye. 8oda ash hel# !o $ni%o m bleaching ac!ion on bleach ba!h. I! has a cleaning #owe and hel# colo %ading a%%ec! o% ga men!. I! is $sed also %o colo %i+ing in dye ba!h. JANTI)TAIN* An!i2s!ains $sed !o # e"en! !he s!aining on we%! ya n o% !he denim <whi!e ya n=- whi!e #oc*e!s o% ga men!- le"els- and con!ac!ed %ab ics o% ga men! and inc eased !he b igh!ness o% %ab ics; i! is also ac!s as an!i c easing agen!. 7DE)I8ING AGENT* Desi,ing agen! is $sed !o emo"e mainly s!a ches- cmc- wa+es- %a!s #ec!inPs- mine als ) $n%i+ed indigo dye % om denim- !wills- #o#lin ) can"as %ab ics e!c. 7+LEAC4ING POWDER* 'leaching #owde is an o+idi,ing agen!. I! is $sed in washing #lan! %o colo o$! % om !he denim ga men!s. (e can achie"e de%e en! shade o% colo on ga men! i.e. Da *- .edi$m- /igh! shade. J)ODIUM 4,PO)ULP4ITE* 8odi$m hy#os$l#hi!e is $sed !o ne$! ali,e !he ga men!s % om chlo ine bleach. 7ACETIC ACID 9C4:COO4;* Ace!ic Acid is $sed !o ne$! ali,e !he ga men!s % om al*aline condi!ion and !o con! ol !he #H "al$e in wash ba!h. 7FLAX )OFTENER* 8o%!ene is $sed !o ma*e !he ga men!s ! ea!ed !e+!iles a s$ %ace %eel !ha! is bo!h sic*ly and so%! and also # o"ides e+cellen! l$b ica!ing # o#e !ies.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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CHAPTER ?

EXPERIMENTAL

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 26

?.1 (OREIN5 P/ACE1

1. Indigo (ashing /!d.

?.0 RA( .ATERIA/81

<. Denim G rmen#s 9Leg P nels; Collec!ed % om Indigo (ashing /!d. )-e'ifi' #ion of Denim f (ri'* Ty#e Cons! $c!ion (a # way (e%! way =. )o" As& 8oda Ash Collec!ed % om Indigo (ashing /!d. :. An#i ( '5 s# ining gen# Collec!ed % om Indigo (ashing /!d. >. +le '&ing Po!"er91.C.I; Collec!ed % om Indigo (ashing /!d. ?. )o"i$m 4y-os$l-&i#e Collec!ed % om Indigo (ashing /!d. @. A'e#i' A'i" Collec!ed % om Indigo (ashing /!d A.Fl B )of#ener Collec!ed % om Indigo (ashing /!d
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING Page 27

1 100Fco!!on- !will <?>1= 1 @1 + A0>9 +@ 1 Indigo 1 (hi!e

?.? EOPERI.ENTA/ ?.?.1 8A.P/E NO101 <Raw 8am#le=

Raw sam#le <wi!ho$! desi,ing and washing= This sam#le is no! washed.

?.?.0 8A.P/E NO100

Only Desi/e" s m-le !i#& sof# ! s&. RECIPE FIR)T )TEP *6DE)I8ING 2 (a!e 2 .achine R$nning. 2 Tem#e a!$ e 2 8oda Ash 2 An!i 'ac* 8!aining Agen! 2 Time 2 /i4$o D o# 2 Rinsing 0 !imes wi!h 100 li!e o% wa!e 1 C0 /i!e . 1 B0[c. 1 C0 gm 1 1C gm 1 1C min$!e. each !ime.

)ECOND )TEP*6)OFT WA)4. 2 (a!e 2 Ace!ic Acid 2 8o%!ene 2 Time 2 /i4$o D o# 1 A0 li!e . 1 0A gm 1 A0 gm 1 C min$!e.

T4IRD )TEP* 6 4,DRO EXTRACTOR MAC4INE. 2 Time 1 0 min$!e

Page 28

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

 FOURT4 )TEP*6 GA) DR,ER. 2 Tem#e a!$ e1 2 Time 2 Time 1 90[c. 1 ?0 min$!e %o d y. 1 10 min$!e %o cold d y.

?.?.? 8A.P/E NO10?

Desi/e" n" +le '& !i#& sof# ! s& s men#ione" (elo!*6 RECIPE

FIR)T )TEP*6DE)I8ING 2 (a!e 2.achine R$nning 2 Tem#e a!$ e 2 8oda Ash 2 An!i 'ac* 8!aining Agen! 2 Time 2 /i4$o D o# 1 C0 li!e s. 1 B0[c 1 C0 gm 1 1C gm 1 1C min$!e.

)ECOND )TEP*64OT WA)4 2 (a!e 2 Tem#e a!$ e 2 Time 1 C0 li!e s. 1 B0[c. 1 C min$!e

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 29

 T4IRD )TEP*6+LEAC4ING 2(a!e 2.achine $nning. 2'leaching #owde <* .c. I= 28oda ash 2Tem#e a!$ e 2Time 2/i4$o D o# 2Rinsing 0 !imes wi!h 100 li!e o% wa!e 1 A0 li!e s. 1 A00 gm. 1 000 gm 1 B0[c. 1 1C min$!e. each !ime.

FOURT4 )TEP*6NEUTRAL WA)4 2(a!e 28odi$m Hy#os$l#hi!e 2Tem#e a!$ e 2Time 2/i4$o D o# 2 Rinsing 1 !imes wi!h 100 li!e o% wa!e FIFT4 )TEP*6)OFT WA)4 2(a!e 2 Ace!ic Acid 28o%!ene 2Time 2/i4$o D o#. 1 A0 li!e s. 1 0A gm 1 A0 gm 1 C min$!e 1 C0 li!e s. 1 1C0 gm. 1 A0[c. 1 10 min$!e. .

)IXT4 )TEP* 4,DRO EXTRACTOR MAC4INE. 2Time 1 0 min$!e

)EVENT4 )TEP*6 GA) DR,ER. 2Tem#e a!$ e 2Time 2Time 1 90[c. 1 ?0 min$!e %o d y. 1 10 min$!e %o cold d y.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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CHAPTER 0A RE)ULT) AND DI)CU))ION

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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A.1 6O//O(IN5 TE8T8 ARE DONE1

1. 58. .eas$ emen! 0. Co$n! .eas$ emen! ?. 8!i%%ness .eas$ emen! A. EPI ) PPI .eas$ emen! C. R$bbing 6as!ness .eas$ emen!

A.1.1 58. .EA8URE.ENT1

) m-le no 1

) m-le "e# ils Raw sam#le <(i!ho$! wash= Desi,ed a=A00 b=?GA c=?G@ a=A0A b=A0? c=A00 a=A0B b=A0A c=A00

G)M 2 l$es ?G@

A2g G)M

Rem r5s

A0?

? Desi,edT'leach

A0A

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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A.1.1.1 5RAPH 6OR 58.1

4 0 4 4 0 2 4 0 0 3 9 8 3 9 6 3 9 4 3 9 2 Without D esized (D esized w a s h sa m ple +B lea ch) S a m ple S a m ple F o !S "

A.1.1.0 CO..ENT81
58. is highe while washing wi!h Desi,ing and bleaching agen! !han o!he s. 58. is lowe %o $ndesi,ed washing sam#le !han o!he s. /ess di%%e ence be!ween desi,ed and bleach sam#le.

A.1.0 COUNT .EA8URE.ENT1

) m-le no 1 ) m-le "e# ils Raw sam#le <(i!ho$! wash= Desi,ed W r- Co$n# 9 in Ne; a=9 b=9 c=9 a=@ b=@ c=@ a=9 b=@ c=@ A2g Co$n# 9in Ne; 9 Wef# Co$n# 9in Ne ; a=@ b=9 c=@ a=@ b=@ c=@ a=B b=B c=B A2g Co$n# 9in Ne;

? Desi,edT'l each

B
Page 33

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

A.1.0.1 5RAPH 6OR (ARP COUNT1

8 $#8 $#6 $#4 $#2 $ 6#8 6#6 6#4

S am ple F o wa p cou%t

Without D es iz ed (D es ized was h s am ple +Bleach )S am ple

A.1.0.0 5RAPH 6OR (E6T COUNT1

$ 6#8 6#6 6#4 6#2 6 &#8 &#6 &#4

S am ple F o We't cou%t

Without D es iz ed (D es iz ed was h s am ple +Bleach )S am ple

A.1.0.? CO..ENT81
'leach wash ca$ses %ine co$n!. Ie y small "a ia!ion in co$n! %o di%%e en! washing.
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING Page 34

 Co$n! is highe %o $ndesi,ed sam#le.

A.1.? 8TI66NE88 .EA8URE.ENT1

) m-le no 1 ) m-le "e# ils Raw sam#le <(i!ho$! wash= Desi,ed W r)#iffness 9 in'&; a=0.@0 b=0.@? c=0.@C a=0.?@ b=0.A0 c=0.?9 a=0.00 b=0.1G c=0.00 A2g )#iffness 9in'&; 0.@0 Wef# )#iffness 9in'&; a=1.@0 b=1.@0 c=1.@C a=1.B0 b=1.C0 c=1.CC a=1.A0 b=1.AA c=1.C0 1.@1 A2g )#iffness 9in'&;

0.?9

1.CC

? Desi,edT'le ach

0.00

1.AA

A.1.?.1 5RAPH 6OR 8TI66NE88 <(ARP (AH=1

3 2#& 2 (#& ( 0#& 0 Without D es iz ed (D es iz ed was h s am ple +Bleach ) S am ple S am ple F o Wa p S ti''%es s

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 35

A.1.?.0 5RAPH 6OR 8TI66NE88 < (E6T (AH =1

(#$& (#$ (#6& (#6 (#&& (#& (#4& (#4 (#3& (#3 S am ple F o We't S ti''%es s

Without D es ized (D es ized was h s am ple +B leach ) S am ple

A.1.?.? CO..ENT81
8!i%%ness ed$ces a%!e washing. The s!i%%ness has no! changed no!iceably. I! can be said !ha! washing do no! occ$ h$ge change in s!i%%ness # o#e !y. 8!i%%ness is mo e in $ndesi,ed sam#le. 8!i%%ness is less in bleach washing.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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A.1.A EPI ) PPI .EA8URE.ENT1

) m-le no 1

) m-le "e# ils Raw sam#le <(i!ho$! wash= Desi,ed a=@1 b=@1 c=@1 a=@0 b=@0 c=@? a=@A b=@A c=@?

EPI

A2g EPI

PPI

A2g PPI

@1

@0

? Desi,edT'l each

@A

a=?G b=A0 c=A1 a=A1 b=A0 c=A? a=AA b=A? c=AA

A0

A0

AA

A.1.A.1 5RAPH 6OR EPI1

$4 $3#& $3 $2#& $2 $(#& $( $0#& $0 69#&

S am ple F o )*+

Without was h

D es iz ed s am ple

(D es iz ed + B leach ) S am ple

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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A.1.A.0 5RAPH 6OR PPI1

44 43 42 4( 40 39 38 Without was h D es iz ed s am ple (D es iz ed + B leach ) S am ple S am ple F o **+

A.1.A.? CO..ENT81
EPI o% !he sam#les "a ies % om @1 !o @A. PPI o% !he sam#les "a ies % om A0 !o AA. EPI ) PPI can be changed d$e !o sh in*age.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 38

A.1.C RU''IN5 6A8TNE88 .EA8URE.ENT1

) m-le no ) m-le "e# ils W r- R$((ing F s#ness Dry 1 Raw sam#le <(i!ho$! wash= Desi,ed We# Dry Wef# R$((ing F s#ness We#

0>?

?>A

0>?

0 ?

?>A Desi,edT' leach A

0>? ?>A

A A

? ?>A

A.1.C.1 5RAPH 6OR RU''IN5 6A8TNE88 <(ARP (AH=1

4 3#& 3 2#& 2 (#& ( 0#& 0

D ,S am ple Wet S am ple

Without was h

D es iz ed S am ple

(Des iz ed + B leached ) S am ple

A.1.C.0 5RAPH 6OR RU''IN5 6A8TNE88 <(E6T (AH=1

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 39

4 3#& 3 2#& 2 (#& ( 0#& 0

D ,S am ple Wet S am ple

Without was h

D es iz ed S am ple

(D es iz ed + Bleached ) S am ple

A.1.C.? CO..ENT81
R$bbing %as!ness inc eases a%!e washing. R$bbing %as!ness is mo e in bleach washing. R$bbing %as!ness is less in $ndesi,ed sam#le.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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CHAPTER C

CONCLU)ION

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 41

C.0 CONC/U8ION1
5a men! washing is being done %o !he las! C0 yea s in di%%e en! co$n! ies a o$nd !he wo ld. '$! in 'angladesh i! was %i s! de"elo#ed in 1G99. 'e%o e !his- washing was done in Hong Eong- i.e. a%!e sewing ga men!s a e sen! !o Hong Eong %o washing and !hen again im#o !ed he e bac* %o %inishing and #ac*ing #$ #oses. 8o- e+! a o"e head cos! <% eigh! cos!- washing cos!- !ime cons$m#!ions= was d awn in. Nowadays ga men! washing is done in 'angladesh and e"en washing machines a e # od$ced locally. Tho$gh washing ind$s! ies has "i!al ole in o$ R.5 sec!o - s!ill now !he washing #lan!Ps bac*wa d lin*age is #oo inside !he co$n! y. The chemicals and machines a e no! man$%ac!$ ed by !he local ind$s! ies %o which !hey ha"e !o de#end on !he %o eign s$##lie s. This !y#e o% # o&ec! on !he com#a ison o% !he e%%ec!s o% bleach wash and no mal wash on denim ga men!s will enhance o$ *nowledge on ind$s! ial ga men!s washing which is conside ed !o be a big !ool o% %ashion de"elo#men! in !he a##a el sec!o which also adds "al$e !o !he a##a el %ashionable # od$c!s. 8o- !hese # o&ec!s shall be done mo e and mo e in o de !o con! ib$!e !o !he "al$e added %ashion de"elo#men! o% a##a el in o$ co$n! y. 'esides- i! will hel# $s a lo! !o de"elo# o$ basics on a##a el ga men! washing as we ha"e !ho o$ghly s!$died !he changes occ$ ed !o !he #hysical # o#e !ies o% denim a##a el a%!e !he a##lica!ion o% !hese !wo se#a a!e me!hodology o% washing. Th$s we wan! !o concl$de !ha!- !his # o&ec! will b ing signi%ican! bene%i! !o o$ # o%essional li%e in !he a##a el ind$s! y.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 42

CHAPTER B

APPENDIX

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 43

C.1 DE8IDIN51
Pro'ess )eC$en'e of Desi/ing 6 a. 8am#le b. Add wa!e c. .achine R$n d. 8oda Ash e. An!i2bac* 8!aining Agen! %. 1C min .>C $n g. Rinse 0 !ime

C.0 '/EACH (A8HE8 (ITH DE8IDIN51

Pro'ess )eC$en'e of +le '& W s& !i#& Desi/ing 6 a. 8am#le b. Add wa!e c. .achine R$n d. 8oda Ash e. An!i2bac* 8!aining Agen! %. 1C min .>C $n g. Ho! wash h. Add wa!e i. .achine R$n &. 'leaching Powde <E.C.I= *. 8oda Ash /. .achine R$n 1C min m. Rinse 0 !ime n. Ne$! ali,a!ion o. Rinse one
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING Page 44

C.? 8O6T (A8H1

Pro'ess )eC$en'e of )of# W s&6 a. 8am#le b. Add wa!e c. Ace!ic acid d. 8o%!ene e. .achine R$n C min

C.A HHDROEOTRACTIN51
Pro'ess )eC$en'e Of 4y"ro EB#r '#ing6 a. 8am#le b. .achine R$n %o 0 min

C.C DRHIN51
Pro'ess )eC$en'e of Drying6 a. 8am#le b. Tem# 90[c c. .achine R$n %o ?0 min d. 10 min$!e %o cold d y

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

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C.B PROCE88 O6 /A' TE8T8 C.B.1 58.1

The 58. o% %ab ic is one *ind o% s#eci%ica!ion o% %ab ic which is "e y im#o !an! %o a !e+!ile enginee %o $nde s!anding and # od$c!ion o% %ab ic. R58.P means R5 am #e s4$a e me!e P !ha! is !he weigh! o% %ab ic in g am #e one s4$a e me!e . 'y !his we can com#a e !he %ab ics in $ni! a ea which is hea"ie and which is ligh!e . The weigh! o% a %ab ic can be e+# essed in !wo ways- ei!he as !he Rweigh! #e $ni! a eaP o !he Rweigh! #e $ni! leng!hP; !he %o me is sel% e+#lana!o y b$! !he la!!e e4$i es a li!!le e+#lana!ion beca$se !he weigh! o% a $ni! leng!h o% %ab ic will ob"io$sly be a%%ec!ed by i!s wid!h. In wo"en %ab ic- !he weigh! #e $ni! leng!h is $s$ally e%e ed !o as !he Rweigh! #e $nning ya dP. I! is necessa y !he e%o e !o *now !he ag eed s!anda d wid!h $#on which !he weigh! #e $nning ya d is based. Us$ally !his wid!h de#ends $#on !he wid!h o% loom. 'e%o e coming !he !e m R58.P !he e was ano!he !e m called Rlb>100 ya dsP. This e+# ession is $sed by ' i!ish 8!anda d. 6o meas$ ing !his !he e a e a !em#la!e and a 4$ad an! balance. The !em#la!e a ea is 1>100 s4$a e ya ds o% which each a m is 1>10 ya ds in leng!h. 6o meas$ ing 58.- a 58. c$!!e is $sed !o c$! !he %ab ic and weigh! is !a*en in balance. 'o!h o% !hese meas$ emen! and me!hod is e4$ally $sed %o bo!h wo"en and *ni!!ed %ab ics. APPARATU)1 1. 5sm c$!!e 0. Elec! ic 'alance. PROCEDURE* 1. 6o .eas$ ing 58.- we sho$ld c$! !he %ab ic sam#le by 58. c$!!e . 0. Now weigh !hese sam#les by elec! ic balance in g ams. ?. 'y !his way we ge! !he weigh! in g am #e one s4$a e me!e %ab ic. A. He e 58. o% !he %ab ics by !he 58. c$!!e is ob!ained by !he m$l!i#lying !he sam#le weigh! wi!h 100.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 46

C.B.0 COUNT1
Co$n! is a n$me ical "al$e- which e+# ess !he coa seness o %ineness <diame!e = o% !he ya n and also indica!e !he ela!ionshi# be!ween leng!h and weigh!<!he mass #e $ni! leng!h o !he leng!h #e $ni! mass=o% !ha! ya n. The e%o e- !he conce#! o% ya n co$n! has been in! od$ced which s#eci%ies a ce !ain a!io o% leng!h !o weigh!. 8o- The %ineness o% !he ya n is $s$ally e+# essed in !e ms o% i!s linea densi!y o co$n!. Co!!on ya n co$n! is meas$ ed by English co$n!. N$mbe o% 9A0 ya ds in 1 lb is called English co$n!. 9A0 ya ds is called 1 han*. 8o in ano!he way- English co$n! is2N$mbe o% han* #e #o$nd.English co$n! is e+# essed by Ne.
Ne U N$mbe o% Han* /b APPARATU)* 1. 'eesly balance 0. Tem#la!e ?.1>0 co!!on ide A. 6$ll co!!on ide

PROCEDURE* 1. A! %i s! sam#le is !a*en and wi!h !he hel# o% !em#la!e i! is c$! in!o V co!!on and %$ll co!!on. 0. Then some V co!!on a e #$! on !he igh! side o% !he basely balance and !he V co!!on ide on !he le%! side o% !he 'alance ?. 'y inc easing o dec easing !he n$mbe o% V co!!on ya ns !he machine is balanced. A. Co$n! was !he !o!al n$mbe o% V co!!on ya n. The same # ocess is done C !imes wi!h di%%e en! V co!!on ya n.

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 47

C.B.? 8TI66NE881
8!i%%ness is a s#ecial # o#e !y o% %ab ic. I! is !he !endency o% %ab ic !o *ee# s!anding wi!ho$! any s$##o !. I! is a *ey %ac!o in !he s!$dy o% handle and d a#e o% %ab ic.

8hi ley 8!i%%ness Tes!e A ec!ang$la s! i# o% %ab ic- B in. + 1 in.- is mo$n!ed on a ho i,on!al #la!%o m in s$ch a way !ha! i! o"e change- li*e a can!ile"e - and bends downwa ds.

Th ee s#ecimens in wa # way and !h ee in we%! a e $s$ally !es!ed and since he ela!i"e h$midi!y can a%%ec! !he es$l!s !he !es! sho$ld be made in a s!anda d !es!ing a!mos#he e. The ho i,on!al #la!%o m o% !he ins! $men! is s$##o !ed by !wo side #ieces made o% #las!ic. A!!ached !o !he ins! $men! is a mi o which enables !he o#e a!o !o "iew bo!h inde+ lines % om a con"enien! #osi!ion. The scale o% !he ins! $men! is g ad$a!ed in cen!ime!e s o% bending leng!h and i! also se "es as !he !em#la!e %o c$!!ing !he s#ecimens !o si,e.
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING Page 48

APPARATU)* 1. 8!i%%ness Tes!e 0. 8cisso ?. 8cale

M.C )PECIFICATION* Name1 8hi ley 8!i%%ness Tes!e PROCEDURE* 1. To ca y o$! a !es! !he s#ecimen is c$! !o si,e B in. + 1 in. wi!h !he aid o% !he !em#la!e. 0. 'o!h !he !em#la!e and s#ecimen a e ! ans%e ed !o !he #la!%o m wi!h !he %ab ic $nde nea!h. ?. Now bo!h a e slowly #$shed %o wa d. A. The s! i# o% !he %ab ic will commence !o d oo# o"e !he edge o% !he #la!%o m and !he mo"emen! o% !he !em#la!e and !he %ab ic is con!in$ed $n!il !he !i# o% !he s#ecimen "iewed in !he mi o c$!s bo!h inde+ lines. C. The bending leng!h can immedia!ely be ead o%% % om !he scale ma * o##osi!e a ,e o line eng a"ed on !he side o% !he #la!%o m. B. Each s#ecimen is !es!ed %o$ !imes- a! each end and again wi!h !he s! i# !$ ned o"e . @. In !his way !h ee sam#les a e !es!ed. 9. 6inally mean "al$es %o !he bending leng!h in wa # and we%! di ec!ions can be calc$la!ed.

C.B.A EPI ) PPI1

EPI means End #e Inch ) PPI means #ic*s #e inch. They can be meas$ ed man$ally. APPARATU) Co$n!ing 5lass Needle PROCEDURE A! %i s! some ya ns a e loosen o$! and magni%ying !he ya ns by co$n!ing glass !he EPI and PPI a e co$n!ed man$ally

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Page 49

C.B.C RU''IN5 6A8TNE881

A %as!ness is a #lace- s$ch as a cas!le- which is conside ed sa%e beca$se i! is di%%ic$l! !o each o easy !o de%end agains! a!!ac*. This !es! is designed !o de!e mine !he deg ee o% colo which may be ! ans%e ed % om !he s$ %ace o% a colo ed %ab ic !o a s#eci%y !es! clo!h %o $bbing <which co$ld be d y and (e!=. R$bbing %as!ness is !he esis!ance !o %ading o% dyed !e+!iles when $bbed agains! a o$gh s$ %ace. The %as!ness !o c oc*ing o $bbing is widely $sed on a "a ie!y o% %ab ic !o e"al$a!e !he ! ans%e o% s$ %ace dye % om !he !es! %ab ic when i! is a##lied s$ %ace % ic!ion o $bbed agains! a o$gh s$ %ace.

APPARATU)* 1. C oc* me!e 0. 5 ey scale s!aining.

PROCEDURE* 1. Tes! s#ecimen 1Ccm + Ccm <may be mo e- i! is no e%%ec!= is #laced on !he base o% !he C oc* me!e . 0. A s4$a e o% whi!e !es! clo!h <Ccm O Ccm= which is o% #lain wea"e- desi,ed- bleached b$! wi!ho$! %inished co!!on %ab ic <as eady !o dye = is !a*en. ?. (hi!e !es! clo!h is a!!ached !o !he %inge o% !he c oc* me!e . A. This %inge is $sed in $bbing ac!ion on !he sam#le s#ecimen. C. R$bbing is done- !o and % o 10 cycles a! 10 seconds- i.e. 00 $bs in 10s and %inge # ess$ e on !he s#ecimen is GN. B. 6o !es!ing d y and weigh! $bbing- se#a a!e sam#le is $sed. @. R$bbing !es! is done bo!h %o wa # way and we%! way. 9. 6o we! $bbing- sam#le is d y b$! whi!e !es! clo!h is we!. 6o we!!ing- . 1 / a!io is main!ained no! less !han 11C0-wa!e is d ained a%!e we!!ing and no! s4$ee,ed. G. Only s!aining in !he whi!e clo!h is de!e mined by g ey scale.

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