MARCH 2013 `100

I N D I A S F I R S T T R A V E L M A G A Z I N E
Mystic Mahakumbh 51 Destination Ideas & Reviews
Creativity In Karnataka Travel Tech Trek Like An Expert
THE ROAR & THE RUMBLE
Inside the beauty and wonder of Madhya Pradesh
VOLUME 26 ISSUE 3
34
OF TEA GARDENS
AND RHINOS
Visit the lush green
forests and cultivated
slopes of the Dooars.
40
THE INCREDIBLE
HEART
Madhya Pradeshs
awesome beauty
awaits exploration.
56
KARNATAKAS
CRAFTED WONDERS
A peek at the age-old,
intricate handicrafts of the
southern state.
64
MODERNITY AMIDST
HISTORY
A walk past chic bohemia
to idyllic ruralia in New
Delhis Hauz Khas.
68
BIHARS WILDLIFE
HAVENS
The astonishing flora and
fauna in the depths of
Bihars forests.
G R E A T I D E A S F O R T H E T R A V E L L E R
CONTENTS
MARCH 2013
2 MARCH 2013
MARCH 2013 3
12
GASTRO TRAVELLER
Food reviews from Mumbai,
Coimbatore, Kolkata, and New Delhi.
16
CURRENT CONCIERGE
Our reviewers write in from all over
the country to help you choose the
best accommodation while travelling.
24
INQUISITIVE TRAVELLER
The best deals of the season and
other useful updates from the world
of travel.
30
SPIRITED GUIDE
Facts and info at your fingertips to
make your travel more convenient and
hassle-free.
74
THE RUSTIC OBSERVER
Ruskin Bond shares his delight at
the sandy beaches and the chilly
weather of Odisha.
75
THE TRAIL ORGANISER
Arjun Majumdar on the dangers of
trekking during a thunderstorm and
how to be safe.
76
THE EXPAT DIARIES
Victoria Burrows writes about how
life in India is all about tackling
different personalities and manners.
77
THE GYPSY CHRONICLES
Abhishek Madhukar is able to let
go of a great deal of baggage as he
takes a dip at the Maha Kumbh Mela.
78
THE GASTRO NOTEBOOK
Saransh Goila suggests you find out
from locals which are the best places
to eat in an unfamiliar place.
80
THE BUILD JOURNAL
Vikas Dilawari explains that cities
histories are reflected in their
buildings and monuments.
82
COOL TRAVEL STUFF
Stylish gadgets that will spice up your
journeys.
83
ADVENTURE UNLIMITED
The 2013 Audi Q5 Quattro will make
your next trip to the hills more
thrilling.
84
PERFECT TIMING
These classy mens watches can time
your travel to perfection.
85
STYLE HOUR
Watches every woman would love to
flaunt while travelling.
86
FUN READS
Movies, books, music and an authors
pick. Get ready to groove while you
travel.
87
MOBILE MAGIC
Apps that will jazz up your travel
experiences this month.
90
DEPTHS OF DELIGHT
Australia is a place where every kind
of traveller can find his or her own
kind of destinationright from hip
cities to pristine natural environs. In
this issue, we bring you the marine
wonder that is the Great Barrier Reef.
Dive, snorkel, see the fishes and
maybe plant a coral.
E N T E R H E R E F O R I N D I A
O P I N I O N S & O B S E R V A T I O N S

M A K E T H E M O S T O F T H A T J O U R N E Y
With only 10 pieces available
worldwide, this watch is easily
the most coveted. The HM3
Poison Dart Frog with its 18
carat gold screws and other
high-end frills can keep
onlookers eyes wide and mouth
open for the longest time.
Price `56,57,600
JANUARY 2013 - DISCOVER INDIA 000
T H E W O R L D , F R O M T H E I N D I A N E Y E
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Editors Note
01/03/2013
W
hen I first undertook the challenge of
relaunching Discover India, I knew the
task would be tough. Not only is it Indias
oldest travel magazine, it is also a storied
media brand that is respected across the
world, from Japan to Africa and from Russia
to Australia. Readers were used to its content
being presented a certain way, they were
comfortable with the way it looked and felt
and, most important, they were not
intimidated by it. It spoke to them, it spoke
about them and it was not snobbish, arrogant
or pompous. There was a fluidity to its
presentation that was warm and essentially
Indian. Like I said, not an easy job to retain
the essence and still usher in 2013, and its
25th Anniversary.
Thankfully, I had 25 years of content and
design ideas to fall back on, and that is exactly what I did. The magazine you are
holding in your hands is a result of intense study into the first few and recent issues
of DI, and the best look-and-feel pointers we could pull out from those hard-bound
volumes of amazing stories and experiences. And I am happy to say that all of our
readers like younew and existenthave positive things to say about the magazine
and its new avatar. Of course, your comments and suggestions are invaluable in the
way this magazine will evolve, so please do keep writing in. Your thoughts and ideas
are like a compass that will guide us.
This issue promises to be a treat, and we have many features that will catch your
fancy. From casual walks in the centre of a city to SUV rides in the middle of a
National Park, we have tried to fit in a bit of everything. We take an extensive look
at the best that Madhya Pradesh has to offer to visitors and locals alike. This is
complemented by a walk-through in the bustling commercial and heritage streets of
Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi. It is a place that packs in fashion designers,
eclectic galleries and a bevy of exotic-cuisine beauties. There are also travelogues
through other Indian states, and I will not ruin the surprise by spelling them out. I
can assure you, though, that they are stunning and fun.
I hope you will enjoy reading and collecting this issue. The next few months are
going to feature some excellent ideas, tips and experiences, and we cant wait to
bring you all that DI has to offer.
VIVEK PAREEK
Editor
RUSKIN BOND
One of Indias most celebrated writers,
Mr. Bond offers a fresh take on the hills.
VIKAS DILAWARI
Vikas heads his own conservation architecture
firm, and talks about travel with a build twist.
SARANSH GOILA
The chef from Roti Rasta Aur India on Food
Food channel takes us on a culinary journey.
VICTORIA BURROWS
A famous magazine and newspaper writer,
Victoria takes the outside-in perspective.
ARJUN MAJUMDAR
The brain behind Indiahikes, Arjun dwells
on the most incredible treks in India.
ABHISHEK MADHUKAR
From working with the Dalai Lama to travelling
light, Abhishek pitches a tangential tent.
Meet Our
Columnists
E
D
I
T
O
R

S
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
J
A
T
I
N
K
A
M
P
A
N
I
4 MARCH 2013
IN 2013
E
Discover India is published by Media Transasia Ltd.
#1205-6 Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Central Hong Kong, Hong Kong.
Tel: (852) 28153111; Fax: (852) 28511933; Editorial email: discoverindia@mtil.biz
Entire contents Copyright 2001 Media Transasia Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in any
language in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Requests for permission should be directed to
Media Transasia India Ltd. Opinions carried in Discover India are the writers and not necessarily endorsed by
Media Transasia. The publisher assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited material unless
accompanied by sufficient return postage. Nor is it responsible for material lost or damaged in transit. All
correspondence regarding advertising or editorial should be addressed to Media Transasia India Limited,
323, Udyog Vihar Phase IV, Gurgaon122016, Haryana, India. Tel: 0124 4759500, Fax: 0124 4759550
EDITOR
VIVEK PAREEK
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
BIPIN KUMAR
SUB-EDITOR
SAMONWAY DUTTAGUPTA
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR
MUKESH KUMAR
EDITORIAL CONSULTANT
YANA BANERJEE-BEY
CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS
SACHIN JAIN (DEP. ART DIRECTOR)
AJAY KUMAR (ASST. ART DIRECTOR)
SUJIT SINGH
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
KANCHAN RANA
PRODUCTION
SUNIL DUBEY (DGM), RITESH ROY (SR. MANAGER)
DEVENDER PANDEY (MANAGER), KULDEEP DABRAL, DAVINDER SINGH,
BRIJESH JUYAL (PRE-PRESS OPERATOR)
SALES & MARKETING
NATIONAL SALES HEAD JYOTIE RATHOD
HIMANSHU SHRIVASTAVA (MUMBAI) 022 42467777
D KARTHIK (CHENNAI) 044 28141816
JOY TALAPATRA (BENGALURU) 080 22219578 SUJIT BOSE (KOLKATA) 033 22874298
P.P.S. MARWA (LUCKNOW) 0522 2780754
MANAGER SCHEDULING C.P. SHREEDHARAN
MANAGER MARKETING NEERAJ RAWAT

CHAIRMAN
J.S. UBEROI
PRESIDENT
XAVIER COLLACO
DIRECTOR
AMRITA SHAHRA
CEO
PIYUSH SHARMA
FINANCIAL CONTROLLER
PUNEET NANDA
MANAGER (HR)
SONYA CAROLINE SHAH

T
he brand that launched Indias rst
tea boutique and pioneered tea
ceremonies and appreciation in
IndiaRadhikas Fine teas and Whatnots
has launched its range of Organic-Whole
-leaf-Teas. These leaves and infusions,
which were earlier sold only to the
likes of Harrods, Le Mariage and Whole
Foods, are now available online at
radhikasneteas.com as well as Natures
Basket stores, thanks to Radhika, a noted
tea sommelier. The different avours of
tea are perfect for different moods. As
Radhika puts it, Some are mood lifters,
others help you relax, whilst some work
as aphrodisiacs. You just need to know
what to select for any particular day.
There is a unique tea menu for each
part of the day, from Breakfast Tea to a
Mid-Afternoon Boost to Quiet Moment
Tea. For gifting, select the Happy Healthy
Hampers where you pick the teas,
infusions, tisane or teaware and can have
it delivered to your loved ones.
Available at: Godrej Natures Basket
stores in Mumbai, Delhi, Gurgaon, Pune,
Hyderabad, and Bengaluru.
STEAMING
FLAVOURS
Contact Details:
info@radhikasneteas.com
for tea master classes,
tea ceremonies, tea avours,
and more.
I NDI A S F I RST TRAVEL MAGAZI NE
SAMBUDDHA
DUTTAGUPTA
ARTIST
An artist by passion and
profession along with
being a full-time banker,
Sambuddha has been
well-known in Indian art
circles since the early
1980s. Apart from
participating in art shows
and exhibitions all over,
he contributes
illustrations to various
publications from time to
time. In this issue, he has
brought to life the quaint
visual appeal of the Hauz
Khas Village.
KUMAR MANGWANI
WRITER
An architect by
profession, Pune-based
Kumar Mangwani took
to photography after
being luckily gifted an
SLR. His other love,
travel, has made him a
writer as well. When not
minding his design
practice, he is either
shooting with a camera
or soul-searching in the
Himalaya, or probing
mysticism. He has
contributed inputs on
Madhya Pradesh this
time.
BINDU GOPAL RAO
WRITER
A cost accountant with
an MBA, she feels that
travel writing gives her
an opportunity to meet a
variety of people and
allows her to explore
new places, all of which
makes journeys even
more fulfilling. In this
issue, she has reviewed a
hotel in South India.
DEBAJYOTI
CHAKRABORTY
PHOTOGRAPHER
Debajyoti is a freelance
photojournalist and has
been contributing his
work to various national
and international photo
agencies. He has been a
contributor for Discover
India for a long time as
well. In this issue, his
photographs accompany
the feature on the
Dooars.
CHITRA RAMASWAMY
WRITER
A travel enthusiast with
wheels for feet, Chitra
pens her travel
experiences with
panache. She has been
a freelance journalist
for long and has been
published in various
newspapers and
magazines in India and
abroad. She has written
the piece on Karnataka
crafts in this issue.
AMITAVA CHAKRABARTY
WRITER
A dock pilot of the
Kolkata Port Trust,
Amitava uses his leisure
time to travel and shares
the experience with the
readers of various travel
magazines in India and
abroad. He also writes
poems and short stories.
He extols the verdant
charms of the Dooars in
this issue.
8 MARCH 2013
C
ontributors
IN 2013
C
19, Ashoka Road, New DeIhi-110001, India
Ph. : + 91 11 4355 5555, Fax: +91 11 4355 5566
EmaiI : info@hoteItheroyaIpIaza.com,
Web: www.hoteItheroyaIpIaza.com
The Road-Lover
I would like to congratulate Discover India
for the feature on Kanatal in the February
issue. I coincidentally bought the same car
and was looking for a road trip in the
Valentine week with my wife. I wanted an
offbeat place where I could spend some
quiet time with her. And, believe me, it
was a hard task to find such a destination!
Thanks to the magazine, I got to know
about Kanatal. Next, I was sipping a cup of
hot coffee with my wife in Kanatal amidst
stunning views.
MANDEEP SINGH New Delhi
Haunted Adventurer
I have been to Bhangarh and its haunted
ruins some time back. The experience was
as good as described in the story. But
kudos for the way the destination has been
covered in Discover India in the February
issue. The usage of pictures and the way
the article was pulled offeverything just
took me back to my experience of the
place. Thanks to the magazine for
providing me with time travel!
RAGHAV PANDIT Allahabad
Armchair Trekker
I have always wanted to go to the pristine
and unexplored environs of the mountains.
And, for that, one must trek. Even though
I have never been able to go for treks,
thanks to my day job, I have always loved
reading about them. If not in real, I can
actually transport myself to the place
through my wings of imagination. And
thats what I did this time as well
Abhishek Madhukars column The Gypsy
Chronicles spoke about an unusual trek in
Shillong. It was amazing! And a bonus was
Arjun Majumdars column on how to trek
with your partner. Great stuff! Thank you
so much, Discover India!
PAYAL SURI San Francisco
The Global Traveller
I travel globally and why not?!
Theres so much to see in this beautiful
world. February is a month of love and
I celebrate it by travelling with my
husband. This time, while I was on
such a trip, I found Discover India at Delhi
airport and, believe it or not, it was a treat
reading the international feature.
Thank you!
MEHAK KAPOOR Mumbai
DI COORDINATES
Physical mail: Discover India, Media Transasia India Ltd, 323 Udyog Vihar Phase IV, Gurgaon122016;
Facsimile: +91-124-4759550; Email: DiscoverIndia@mtil.biz
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS Call +91-124-4759616/17, +91-9899414369 or email circulation@mtil.biz
The Unique One
Almost all Indian travel magazines carry a Valentines Day special feature
every year. And, being an avid reader of travel magazines, I am very
familiar with these features. The difference lies in presenting something
which is common in a unique way. And thats what Discover India did in
this issue. Along with a never-seen-before picture of the Taj Mahal on the
cover, set within a very unique format of the vintage style in which DI
used to have its covers, and special features for both the Indian and the
international sections, the magazine made its position felt amidst a crowd
of other magazines. Indias first travel magazine did it in style!
SURANJAN DAS Kolkata
FEBRUARY 2013 51
Paradise Beach, Gokarna, Karnataka
I
Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir

Kashmir Ki Kali
kahwa
Patnem Beach, Canacona, Goa
P
GOKARNA, KARNATAKA
Reach Gokarna is 515 km from
Bengaluru and is well-connected
through overnight buses and
railway links.
Book a stay karnatakatourism.org
DAL LAKE, SRINAGAR,
KASHMIR
Reach Srinagar International
Airport is connected to all major
cities in the country.
Book a houseboat
houseboatowners.org
CANACONA, GOA
Reach Goas Dabolim Airport is
connected to all major cities in
India. It takes 90 minutes to reach
Patnem Beach from the airport.
Book a stay goatourism.gov.in
NAVIGATOR
(Far left) The golden
sun bathes a houseboat
in a golden hue;
Patnem Beach is a
couples paradise.
42 FEBRUARY 2013
Riding The Highs
Words & Photography SAMONWAY DUTTAGUPTA
The road leading
up to Kanatal
past the beautiful
Tehri Dam
IN 2013
Pahadi
w
kodra ki roti jaatu rice kaathu
bhalle
siddu

rajma.
ghee
a
korda ki roti
b
Saransh, the famous chef, has travelled the country for his Food Food
channel show Roti Rasta Aur India. He says his journey has just begun.
THE GASTRO
NOTEBOOK
SARANSH GOI L A
Based in Dharamsala, Abhishek has written for many publications,
including The New York Times. He also works with the Dalai Lama.
THE GYPSY
CHRONICLES
ABHI SHEK MADHUKAR
FEBRUARY 2013 73 72 FEBRUARY 2013
Missives
W E G O W I T H Y O U R F L O W
10 MARCH 2013
Gateway
Seasoned Toppers, Rooms With A View, Charming Streets of
Puducherry & Ideas For The Smart Traveller
E N T E R H E R E F O R I N D I A
O
T
his all-day dining restaurant affords a
break from the city hustle and bustle. The
bistro-style chairs lend a relaxed air of casual
dining, and the large windows provide a
panoramic view of the beautiful courtyard.
Authenticity is the focus, every dish uses
fresh, traditional ingredients. The buffet
ranges from cold salads to fresh meals,
seafood and desserts. Breakfast includes the
round, flat Ramessari idlis from a village near
Elappally with their earthy aroma from the
clay pots in which they are steam-cooked.
The a la carte menu is a delight too. Start
with the pepper chicken tikka and fish fry.
The fish fingers with tartar sauce are
deliciously decadent. The pepper mutton and
fish curry taste fabulous with steamed rice.
And dont miss out the pistachio ice-cream.
Latitude Vivanta by TajSurya,
Coimbatore, 105, Race Course Road,
Coimbatore641018.
Reservations 0422 668 1000
Meal for two `1,000 (without alcohol).
Timings Open 24 hours.
GASTRO
TRAVELLER
IN 2013
REFRESHING DELICACIES
D
ining at Serafina is to
eat amid a setting of
tradition and artistry. New
York-based Italian
restauranteurs Vittorio Assaf
and Fabio Granato, along
with the well-known
Chatwals, have brought this
world-renowned Italian
restaurant to Mumbai, with
Global Kitchens as the Indian
partners. Original art work by
Michela Martello adorns the
walls of the restaurant and is
a fine precursor to the
artistry of the cuisine.
The chef uses regional
produce and incorporates it
into his North Italian dishes,
resulting in recipes with
daring combinations
enhanced by spices and
aesthetically served. Filetto
di Salmone is a delicate
combination of lentils, baby
spinach and champagne
mustard sauce. The grilled
steak and fries, and thin-
crust pizzas running the
gamut from Marinara and
Margherita to Tartuffo Nero
with robiola cheese, fontina,
truffle cheese, truffle oil and
sliced black truffles are not
to be missed. Most dishes
offer an ingenious blend of
regional products and styles
that will delight gourmets.
The beverage menu is
superb, featuring a top-class
selection of highly-rated
wines from Italy, France,
Germany, New Zealand,
South Australia and the US,
including must-try Tuscans,
champagne and more.
Needless to say, in this
latest culinary delight of
Mumbai, a reservation is
essential.
Serana Level 3, Palladium,
High Street Phoenix, Lower
Parel, Mumbai400013.
For reservations 022
4023 7712.
Meal for two `3,500
(without alcohol), depending
on what you order.
Timings 12 noon to 1 am.
A SLICE OF ITALY IN MUMBAI
Serafina offers North Italian dishes with a touch of the local.
EARTHY FLAVOURS
Latitude is known for traditional and multi-cuisine fare.
12 MARCH 2013
GASTRO
TRAVELLER
IN 2013
SAFFRON True to its name,
Saffronin its brand-new avtar
creates a theatrical experience by
exaggerating decor with the spice
theme predominant. An arresting
element of the design is the
doors being made from bespoke
laminated glass panels containing
a scattering of saffron spices.
The food pays tribute to Indian
regional flavours and is offered
with well-paired spirits and wines.
The Caesar salad with paneer
tikka and beckti paturi marinated
in home-ground mustard and
steamed in banana leaves are
superlative while the masala ka
korma or lamb cooked with ghee,
curd and salt is the pride and joy
of the restaurant. The dining
experience at this well-appointed
restaurant is rounded off with
impeccable service.
Saffron The Park, 17 Park Street,
Kolkata700016.
Reservations 033 4004 9000.
Timings MondayFriday (open for
dinner only) 7.30 to 11.30 pm;
Saturday & Sunday (open for
lunch + dinner)12.30 to 3.30 pm
and 7.30 to 11.30 pm.
Meal for two `1,600 plus taxes
(without alcohol).
MORE
C
osy and unfussy, this 50-seater
restaurant is pretty much the
capitals lone outlet for authentic Thai
street food in a fine dining setting. The
food, ambience and service all make a
visit highly captivating. Owner Shinjini
Kapoor cooks personally and SoiThais
forte is her light cooking with attention
to aroma, freshness and the right hint
of spices. She believes in home-style
cooking and her inspiration towards
becoming a chef and subsequent
training happened in her Thai friends
kitchen in north Thailand. The menu
ranges from mee krob latnaa to neung
manao and from phat prik khing to
mango with sticky rice. Start with laab
kai. Also try the ever-popular chicken in
green curry or the fried fish with mango
salad topped with a chilli lime sauce. A
good selection of beverages
complements the memorable food.
SoiThai 1st Floor, 38, Basant Lok
Market, PVR Priya Complex, Vasant
Vihar, New Delhi110017.
Reservations 08860010774.
Meal for two `900 (without alcohol).
Timings 11.30 am to 11 pm.
FROM BANGKOK, WITH LOVE
SoiThai serves authentic street food, cooked by the owner.
14 MARCH 2013
The Odisha State Handlooms Weavers Cooperative Society Ltd.
Boyan Bhawan, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru Marg, Bhubaneswar 751001, Odisha
Phone 2395387, 2390741, 2391178, Fax : 0674 2530553
Website : www.boyanika.com, e-mail : boyanikabbsr@sify.com
Handlooms, Textiles & Handicrafts Department, Government of Odisha
Pioneer in Odisha Handwovens
Only Apex Society of the State for marketing of Odisha
Handwovens.
The Oldest Brand Name in Odisha Handwovens Deals only
with Odisha Handwovens
Rebate given to customers during festive occasions is
genuine and reimbursed by Govt.
41 Sale Outlets in and outside the State.
An ISO 9001-2008 Certified Organization.
Launched its website - www.boyanika.com & started the
online Sale of its Products.
Quality is ensured, in case of any manufacturing defect, it is
replaced within 7 days.
Main Sale Branches
Delhi : 1. 68, Palika Bazar & 2. Vicajicama
Place, August Kranti Bhawan.
Kolkata : 1. G/16, Dakhinapan Market
Complex, Dhakuria,
2. Jasoda Bhawan, Gariahat &
3. NHDC Complex, Civic Centre, Maniktala
Bhubaneswar : Western Market Building
Cuttack : 1. Jail Road, 2. Buxi Bazar &
3. Bajrakabati Road
Puri : 1. Singhadwar & 2. Swargadwar
Berhampur : Mayuri Tower
Rourkela : 1. Sector 5 & 2. Udit Nagar
Balasore : Cinema Bazar
ISO 9001 2008 Certified
(The Oldest Brand Name in Odisha Handwovens)
B
16 MARCH 2013
H
ow do you classify a
totally new experience in
ahotels feel and look?
We are at the Lemon Tree Hotel,
Bengaluru, and I can validate that
you dont get to feel this way
anywhere else. I mean, let us begin
with the sense of design of their
hotels. Is there a policy on freshness,
because that is the first thing that
strikes you at Lemon Tree Hotels.
Well-lit lobby and tall windows give
you a sense of space even in the
busiest part of town. Then that
trademark tangy fragrance, the
moment you step into its portals, as
if to help you memorise that you are
in a Lemon Tree Hotel.
There is a cheerful
ambience about this place that
seems to be part of corporate
philosophy. The staffs Hi
seems a lot happier than
elsewhere. And they take their
sense of humour seriously too.
Its a mood thing, obviously, or
how else do you explain witty
jokes framed like works of art
in different corners of the
hotel, table mats, baby T-
shirtsalmost as if a
department is devoted to keep
you in good humour!
The rooms are smartly done
upall bells and whistles in
placemini-bar, high-speed
wi-fi, satellite TV, ergonomic
chair for the desk-bound.
Additionally, all rooms are
insulated for sound. The beds
have bounce, the windows
have blackout curtains
obviously, they take your
nights sleep seriously too! And
security is another area they
focus on intensely. I felt
completely secure during my
stay, as if Lemon Tree was my
big brother.
Theres a dash of pizzazz in
everything. Citrus cafe is the
popular caf that dishes out
intercontinental fare. Theres a
gym and a pool for fitness
freaks and Slounge is the
watering hole and chill-out
zone for fun-seekers. Good
SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS
Lemon Tree enchants guests with its trademark freshness in scent, ambience and comfort.
CURRENT
CONCIERGE
IN 2013
NAVIGATOR
By rail/air The property is
20 minutes from the railway
station and 45 minutes from the
international airport.
By road Bengaluru is well-
connected by road to all parts
of the country.
For bookings, call 09911701701;
email hi@lemontreehotels.com;
web lemontreehotels.com
MARCH 2013 17
thing they provide the antidote
to excess onsite!It is interesting
to know that Lemon Tree
Hotels has quickly become the
third largest hotel chain in
India, based on hotel rooms in
owned properties; 20 business
and leisure hotels in 14 cities
across India in just the last 10
years make them the fastest
growing also. They also have
resorts in Aurangabad,
Alleppey and Goa which are
the best in class properties. Oh,
and apparently they are the
most awarded chain of hotels in
the mid-market. That explains
a few things!
Overall, my experience
suggests that Lemon Tree
Hotels are defining a new
category of service that is at
once buoyant, breezy, efficient
and terrific value for money.
T
ucked amidst the
Western Ghats, in
close proximity to
Maratha forts and Buddhist
caves, the Hilton Shillim
Estate Retreat and Spa is a
fabulous luxury getaway. It is
popular with tycoons and
Bollywoods jetsetters who
come here for a break and to
recharge amid the serenity of
nature. There are 99 villas
sprinkled across 350 acres of
wilderness. The villas come
with butler service, en suite
treatment areas and outdoor
showers. The retreat flaunts
the countrys largest wine
cellar, a culinary calendar of
visiting celebrity chefs and a
multitude of dining options
complemented by organic
and locally sourced
ingredients.
Star attractions include
the Dining by Design beside
waterfalls and on hilltops,
where you can pamper your
palate while feasting your
eyes on the stunning views.
Another highlight is the
Shillim Institute that
celebrates the regions
natural and cultural heritage.
The piece de resistance
of the property is the 70-acre
spa with 17 treatment rooms
offering 150 treatments,
including exotic ones like
Watsu, fire healing and
shamanism, as well as a
meditation cave and yoga
pavilion.
Take a plunge in the
pool, enjoy cultural
programmes or pamper
yourself with massages. With
its pleasant walks and
panoramic viewpoints,
theres something to explore
every minute of your
holiday. For the
adventurous, there are
guided nature trails, horse
riding, mountain biking,
birdwatching, and fishing in
Pawana Lake.
INTO THE WILD, IN LUXURY
The Hilton Shillim Retreat and Spa has villas, Indias largest wine cellar and outdoor dining.
I
CURRENT
CONCIERGE
IN 2013
18 MARCH 2013
NAVIGATOR
Reach It is a 2.5-hour drive or 30-
minute helicopter hop from Mumbai
and a 1.5-hour drive from Pune.
Address Hilton Shillim Estate Retreat
and Spa, Village Shillim, Pawana
Nagar,Taluka Maval, Pune410416
Tel: 91 2114 712 468
Email:shillim.sales@hilton.com
Vasundhara Sarovar provides modern amenities amid a traditional ambience.
T
W
earied by a two-
hour drive from
Kochi airport,
the colourful reception
area of Vasundhara Sarovar
Premiere resort perked me
up. It drew from Trissur
Pooram, a festival held at
the Vadakunathan temple
in Trichur. Depictions of
Kathakali and theyyam
worship, elephant
caparisons, a huge stone
lamp and metal bells were a
rejuvenating sight.
My floating cottage
room, awash with pristine
white and peacock blue,
had an inviting sofa and a
well-stocked mini-bar but
the best part was revealed
on the balconya huge
jacuzzi (holding 750 litres!)
overlooking an artificial
lake.
Buffets are served at
Mystic Spice, the all-day
outlet, and are a mix of
local, Indian and
international cuisine. The
chef will also cook a dish of
your choice. At breakfast,
the traditional puttu is on
offer. Theres also
Chemmeen, the seafood
specialty restaurant, and
Madira, a bar. Dont skip
Zephyr, the poolside caf
and bar.
The spa offers
Ayurvedic, Western and
Oriental treatments and
couple sessions with a
private jacuzzi. Try
yoga at the Yoga Deck.
Watch toddy tapping and
coir-making, visit the
beach, lighthouse and St
Andrews Basilica at
Arthunkal or see the
backwaters by boat.
I
N
T
O
T
H
E
W
I
L
D
,
I
N
L
U
X
U
R
Y
W
O
R
D
S
S
U
S
H
E
E
L
A
N
A
I
R
;
R
O
C
K
O
N
T
H
E
B
A
C
K
W
A
T
E
R
S
W
O
R
D
S
B
I
N
D
U
G
O
P
A
L
R
A
O
MARCH 2013 19
NAVIGATOR
By air Nearest airport is Kochi (63 km).
By rail Railheads: Cherthala (6 km),
Ernakulam(35 km), Alleppey (28 km).
By road Nearest bus station is at
Cherthala (8 km). Or take the ferry from
Valamangalam to the resort (25 mins).
Address VP II, 326 B, Vayalar,
Cherthala, Alleppey District, Kerala
688 536. Phone: +91 478 6613000.
Email: gmvsp@sarovarhotels.com.
N
ROCK ON THE BACKWATERS
c
O
wned and managed
by the Camps of
India group, the
Lion Safari Camp in the Gir
National Park is located in a
private mango orchard
overlooking the Hiran river.
The area around is filled
with about 900 mango trees.
The camp is quite eco-
friendly in its set-up and has
21 AC luxury tents. Each
tent has a fairly large and
well-furnished bedroom and
an attached en suite
bathroom along with it. To
make things more
environment-friendly, the
tents have been furnished
with materials which are
made of natural and local
substances. And, to make the
guests feel a part of the
beautiful surroundings of Gir
and its amazing wildlife,
each tent has an extended
deck which opens out to
Mother Naturean ideal
place to sit and relax with a
cup of coffee and some
interesting conversation.
Wondering how your
dining experience would be?
Well, theres an open air
restaurant that overlooks the
Hiran river. A wide choice of
Indian, Chinese and
continental cuisine is
available. To make the
experience even better, there
is a barbeque that takes
place in the evenings. The
resort has its own bakery too.
Picnic lunches and teas can
also be arranged at nearby
scenic locations. And, if one
is in a romantic mood, the
resort can also arrange a
candlelight dinner for two at
the camp.
Other facilities of the
camp resort include a
recreation room with indoor
games, customised 4x4 Safari
vehicles for jungle safaris,
local sightseeing, cultural
evenings and doctors on call.
NEAR THE ROARING WILDS
The Lion Safari Camp in Gir National Park is a perfect place to experience the mystic wilderness.
CURRENT
CONCIERGE
IN 2013
20 MARCH 2013
NAVIGATOR
By Air Diu (105 km) is the nearest
airport. Another option is Rajkot
(160 km).
By Rail Sasan railway station is at a
distance of just one kilometre, while
Veraval is 40 km away.
By Road Sasan Gir is well-con-
nected by road to Mumbai (770 km)
and Ahmedabad (380 km).
22 MARCH 2013
N
estled within the
pristine environs of
the Aravalli range in
Alwar district is Vanaashrya, a
luxury tented resort. The
journey which started in 1999
with the opening of the
Ranthambhore Regency at
Ranthambore National Park
continued with addition of
Bandhav Vilas in Bandhavgarh
in 2008 and, finally, Vanaashrya
last year.
If you are a nature-lover
and always up for an
adventure, and often yearn to
spend a day or two in such an
environment, this is the
perfect place for you. This
high-end camping resort is set
amidst agricultural land, farms
and water bodies. The famous
haunted fort of Bhangarh and
Sariska National Park are also
nearby. Spread over 10 acres,
the property has a central
water body, 27 luxury tents
equipped with private
showers, a central complex
with a reception area, two
open courtyards where guests
can enjoy snacks and folk
music, a dining hall with an
extended deck overlooking
the water body named Basil,
and a bonfire area.
Delicious Indian cuisine is
available and there is also a bar
named Cloud 9.
The resort also has a spa,
VanSutra, with four massage
rooms, two jacuzzis, two chill
showers and two steam rooms.
Guests can enjoy foot
massages, head massages and
full-body Thai and Swedish
massages.
One can visit the nearby
villages, fields, Bhangarh fort
and Sariska National Park.
If you go to watch the
sunset over Lake Mansarovar,
you can also do some
fishing. For adventure-lovers,
there are hikes of one to three
hours past the farmlands and
the nearby hills. A stay in
Vanaashrya is a sojourn
of fun, adventure and peaceful
chilling amid serene nature.
CAMPING AMIDST ARAVALLIS
The tented resort of Vanaashrya offers modern comforts in the lap of nature.
CURRENT
CONCIERGE
IN 2013
NAVIGATOR
By Air New Delhi airport is
185 km away.
By Rail The nearest railway station is
Rajgarh (20 km), while Alwar (53 km)
is another option.
By Road It is well-connected by road
to Jaipur (100 km), New Delhi (185)
km) and Agra (210). Regular buses are
available till Alwar (53 km).
For Reservations Call 08290964410;
Web vanaashrya.com or
regencyhotels.in
MARCH 2013 23
Mile High Reward
Fairmont Jaipur and Jet
Airways have come together
to serve up to customers an
interesting package this sea-
son. All JetPrivilege mem-
bers can now get triple
JPmiles (special privilege
points earned by Jet
Airways customers) for their
stay at this luxury hotel.
Valid until March 31, 2013,
the offer also includes a
complimentary breakfast for
two adults per room as well
as an upgrade to a higher
category of room, subject to
availability, at the time of
check-in. For reservations,
call 0142 642 00 00; email
jai.reservations@fairmont.co
m; web fairmont.com/jaipur
Top To Toe
To mark International Womens
Day (March 8), Mantra Vedic Spa
in New Delhi is offering facial
massage, manicure, pedicure,
shampoo and conditioner wash,
and blow-dry for `2,200.
Address 31 Link Road, Lajpat
Nagar3, New Delhi110024.
Call 011-41081086/ 41081087
or 09818991796.
Email info@mantraspa.co.in
INQUISITIVE
TRAVELLER
IN 2013
24 MARCH 2013
COFFEE, AND MORE
The name of the United Coffee House always rings a bell of nostalgia in Delhiites
minds. And why not? Its been around for the past seven decades. On the comple-
tion of 70 years, United Coffee House has come up with special additions to its
menu under the banner of Signatures@UCH which will take everyone down nostal-
gia lane. The menu has sections highlighting an array of food items from various
eras in the past 70 years, for instance, keema samosa under Early Inceptions, sigri
pudina champen under The Anglo Indian Times and Delhi 6 ka dum aloo under Old
Delhi Streak, among others.
Address United Coffee House, E-15, Inner Circle, Connaught Place, New Delhi.
Timing 12 pm12 am. Price `200 per dish
For reservations, call 09650596114, 09650596115 and 011 2341 1697.
I
INQUISITIVE
TRAVELLER
IN 2013
MORE
Biryani Banquet
Biryani is a perennial
favourite and New Delhis
biryani-lovers are in for a
gluttonous treat. Chutney,
Bar + Tandoor at The Met-
ropolitan Hotel & Spa is
offering a range of biryanis,
served on a bamboo platter.
They will be served with
raita, salan and a glass of
beer. The choices include
kathie biryani, jalpari biryani,
navratan biryani, samundri
manthan, bater biryani and
brownie biryani, among oth-
ers. Offer valid throughout
March. Timing 12 noon to
11 pm. Price `700 a plate.
Duck Dishes
Enjoy a Duck Festival (March
225). Timing 12.3011
pm. Price `1,388 plus tax.
Address Royal China, 16th
Floor, Eros Corporate Tower,
Nehru Place, New Delhi.
Call 01149818000/009.
Imperial pampers solo lady travellers with Eliza
The Imperial is celebrating International Womens Day with a package for solo lady
travellers. Named Eliza, it allows stay in the Single Lady Corridor which has 12 rooms
with door cameras for security, manicure sets and womens magazines. Lady staff pro-
vide room service and phone calls are screened before being connected to the room.
Airport pick-up facility includes a lady escort for the guest.
Price `19,000 plus taxes. Call 011 23341234. Email luxury@theimperialindia.com.
Web www.theimperialindia.com
DETOX, POST-HOLI
Leave all your skin worries behind and get
painted with colour this Holibecause R
The Spa is offering a Holi Detox Package.
It includes a Javanese lulur scrub which is
a mixture of turmeric, rice powder and
floral essences, followed by a gentle peel
that leaves the skin soft, radiant and
freshly scented; a Balinese massage which
encompasses the use of traditional
Balinese methods to work on muscles and
nerve pathways to encourage blood
circulation and reduce stress; aqua
therapy with a Moroccan skin-purifying
wrap which results in healthy, purified and
deeply hydrated skin; and aroma
awakening face therapy which replenishes
and rejuvenates dull and tired-looking skin.
Price `10,000 plus taxes. Address R The
Spa, Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi, National
Highway-8, New Delhi110037. For
reservations and queries,
call 011 2677 9191.
Near Kanha National Park, Village Boda Chhapri, Post Mocha, Kanha 481 768,
Tel: 0997 7853 263/ 0957 5800 582 Email: info@kanhavillage.com, Website: www.kanhavillage.com
Kanha Village Eco Resort
An admirable eco friendly retreat next
to worlds most beautiful Tiger country -
Kanha National Park, to enjoy the
plesent stay amidst the rustic wild and
pristine environment of forest.
Constructed out of environmental
friendly locally available materials resort
welcomes you to soak in the charms of
tribal life with modern comforts and
warm hospitality.
WINNER OF BEST ECO TOURISM INITIATIVE AWARD
Jungle Delight : 2N/3D Package for 2 from 20,199/-
Jungle Luv : 3N/4D Package for 2 from 34,199/-
PACKAGE DETAILS
'Come Celebrate Nature
Celebrate Life'
'Come Celebrate Nature
Celebrate Life'
K
INQUISITIVE
TRAVELLER
IN 2013
28 MARCH 2013
L
ife of Pi is a movie which will be
remembered for many thingsbe it
acting, the tiger or the way the movie
was made. But it will always be special
for Indians, especially for those who are from
Puducherry. The first half of this immensely
successful movie by Ang Lee was shot in the
coastal town of Puducherry, which was once a
French colony.
The backdrop of many sequences in the
movie was the French Quarter which was a
base of the Compagnie des Indes Orientales
(French East India Company) since 1675. Even
though Puducherry (previously known as
Pondicherry) is widely known for being a
French colony once, it passed on to the British
as well from time to time between 1761 and
1815. After that, it remained in French
possession permanently until 1954.
In some scenes of the movie, dealing with
Pis childhood, we see some quiet, wide streets
with their charms intact from the French era.
The Rue de la Caserne, Rue Suffren and Rue
Dumas with the Notre Dame des Agnes
church situated on it, have French villas and
trailing bougainvillea.
But its not only the colonial ambience
which was shown in the movie. The Rue
Jawaharlal Nehru and the frenetic walled Grand
Bazaar with all its hustle and bustle were the
settings of Pis scenes with his girlfriend,
Anandi, when she Is being followed by Pi as
she goes shopping in the bazaar with her
friends. The scene in which Anandi buys
flowers in the bazaar must be etched in most
viewers minds.
One of the stunning shots of the movie was
of the Botanical Gardens which was created by
the French in 1826 and covers about 20 acres of
land. It is at a distance of about a mile from the
French Quarter, and is fronted by the yellow
walls typical of Pondys remaining French
buildings.
Well, its not only the exteriors of the
buildings which were shown in the movie, the
interiors were also given a lot of attention. The
architecture, the design, the furniture
everything shown in the movie reflects
Puducherry to a great extent.
Puducherry was portrayed in Life of Pi in
a way never seen before. Its amazing how much
can be seen onscreen, though its a great deal
less than what one would see in real life.
Life of Pi has instilled a desire in the minds
Life of Pi has portrayed Puducherry
in a way which pulls most travellers
towards it.
By Air Puducherry
has its own airport
and has connecting
flights from
Bengaluru and
Chennai.
By Rail Though
Puducherry has its
own railway station,
it is not very
popular. Villupuram
is the nearest
junction, 35 km
away, and is fairly
well-connected to
places like Chennai,
Madurai, Trichy and
other parts of the
country.
By Road There are
frequent buses from
Chidambaram,
Thanjavur, Trichy
and Coimbatore.
NAVIGATOR
A Walk Through
Pis Land
o
MARCH 2013 29
Rue de la
Caserne, Rue
Suffren and
Rue Dumas are
some of the
streets of
Puducherry that
have been
shown in some
scenes which
deal with Pis
childhood
of its audience to see Puducherry in a new
avatar. The simplicity of the natives
livelihood and the depth in culture becomes
evident when Tabu tells a meaningful
bedtime story to Pi in a room with ancient
colonial architecture which is common in
Puducherry. Every little detail has been paid
attention to. A small example is the typical
wooden window and the yellow wall that we
see in Pis house. And whoever thinks of
exploring a bazaar in such great detail! In fact,
the Grand Bazaar of Puducherry has gained
much more popularity after Pi and Anandi
were shot at that place.
Puducherry Tourism has come up with new
ideas to promote the offbeat locations after
seeing a rapid increase in the footfall of
tourists. This includes a special organised tour
dedicated to the locations of Life of Pi.
And with the brilliance of Ang Lee and his
team showcased in the movie with style, Life of
Pi has proved to be an ultimate winner with
four Oscars in this years Academy Awards.
Think of this movie again and one would
agree that its a real tribute to the lesser-known
charms of Puducherry, besides being a visual
treat indeed.
SPIRITED
GUIDE
IN 2013
30 MARCH 2013
SOUTH INDIA
SET TO ROCK
TO TOURIST
FOOTFALLS
A recent study by the Ministry of
Tourism, Government of India, has
revealed that the southern regions of
the country will overtake the northern
by a wide margin in terms of tourist
arrivals in years to come. The study
says that domestic tourism in the
South will see 1.6 billion visitors
annually by 2022, which is a 91% rise
from the current number, while the
number of foreign tourists coming to
the South will grow to 14 million by
the same year. The North, on the other
hand, will see a 30% growth until
2017, and a 44% growth until 2022,
with the number of tourists at 55
million. Though Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
still draw a lot of tourists, Hampi in
Karnataka, Kovalam and Varkala in
Kerala, and even cities such as
Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad and
Puducherry are becoming increasingly
popular among tourists.
Ritz-Carlton Unrolls Red Carpet In India
The RitzCarlton Hotel group is planning to enter the Indian market with the
opening of its first property in Bengaluru this summer. The property will have 277
rooms, including the RitzCarlton Club, a private floor accessible only by elevator
key, and offering light fare and dedicated concierge service throughout the day.
Besides all this, the hotel will also have several restaurants, enough space for
meetings and events, a spa, an outdoor swimming pool, and an entire floor
dedicated to high-end retail store boutiques.
L
Girls, Wanna
Have Fun?
Devi Garh by lebua, Udaipur, is
offering a Girl Getaway package
which includes a 3N4D stay, two-
way airport transfers, welcome drink,
dry fruits, early check-in and late
check-out, besides other facilities and
recreational activities.
Price Rs 58,000 to Rs 86,000 plus
taxes. For reservations, call 02953
304 211 or 09929088840.
Email salesindia@lebua.com
Web lebua.com.
MARCH 2013 31
MORE
Track Every Train
Indian Railways has begun
implementation of railyatri.in
on the Indian Railways
National Train Enquiry
System (NTES) as the first
public-private initiative to
keep passengers more
informed. The new
trainenquiry.com delivers
information on a trains
current location, stations
passed and expected time
of arrival at future stations.
Additionally,
trainenquiry.com has
created sub-information
portals which include a live
train map view, with real-
time visualisation of all
running trains in India at
any given moment and a
live fog map view.
Wego Woos India
Do you know which website
has been making travel in
India far easier for the past
year? Its the Asian travel
website, Wego, which is
now planning to expand in
India, considering its rapid
growth here over recent
months. The company has
revealed that the number of
hits on its Indian website,
wego.co.in, has tripled since
its launch last year and the
site has increased Wegos
revenues by more than
four-fold.
Lemon Tree Rooms For Disabled Lauded
Lemon Tree Hotels has been awarded by the ministry of social justice and
empowerment for work in the creation of barrier-free environment for persons
with disabilities. Each hotel of the Lemon Tree group has a room specially
designed for orthopaedically challenged persons which is located close to the
elevator. These rooms have large sliding doors, low height vision panels, barrier-
free spacious washrooms with grab bars equipped with low-height wash basins
and adjustable hand showers and sliding door wardrobes with low height
hangers. An audio-visual fire alarm system and alarm button are also installed.
G
Oberoi-Style Luxe
The Oberoi, Mumbai, has announced a
Suite Spot package which includes
accommodation in a luxurious Oberoi
Executive Suite with amazing city views,
complimentary breakfast, internet usage,
airport transfers in an Audi A8 luxury
sedan et al. Price Rs18,000 plus taxes,
per night; offer valid till September 30.
For reservations, call 022 6632 2013 or
1 800 11 2030.
Email reservations@oberoigroup.com
Web www.oberoihotels.com
4
6
7 8
10 9
5
1 2 3
Hospitality Partner
1. Mr. Guillermo Eguiarte (regional director for Asia, Mexico Tourism Board). 2. Guests at the event. 3. His Excellency Mr. Jaime Nualart (ambassador of Mexico in India). 4 (L to R)
Mexican dignitaries Mr. Aldo Ruiz, His Excellency Mr. Jaime Nualart, Mr. Guillermo Eguiarte. 5. Mr. Aldo Ruiz (representative, ProMexico in Mumbai). 6. Guests enjoying the lavish spread.
7. Ms. Margarita Ramos (Mexican Inbound tour operator, Alico Tours). 8. Ms. Alma Nuez (Mexican inbound tour operator, Arminas Travel). 9 Mr. Gaurav Singh (resident manager, The
Leela Mumbai). 10. The elite speakers with Ms. Natasha Bahia (Sr. marketing manager, T+L India & South Asia).
P
ristine white beaches, turquoise waters of the Mexican
Caribbean, and the varied colours of its cultural
heritageMexico is a travellers delight. Ranked
number 6 worldwide for its number of World Heritage Sites
designed by UNESCO, the Latin American country charms
with its myriad moods.
Ranked No. 2 for Luxury Travel & No. 1 for Spas in the
world, Mexicos excellent services, modern infrastructure,
scrumptious vegetarian options, and no language barrier
makes it a popular destination for Indians looking for an
unforgettable holiday. 2012 saw more than 30,000 tourists
from India visit Mexico and the figure is expected to reach
200,000 by 2020
The Embassy of Mexico in India, Mexico Tourism
Board, ProMexico and Travel + Leisure India & South Asia
collaborated and conducted a successful seminar in Mumbai
on February 11 for travel professionals with participation of
leading travel service providers and DMCs.
Mexico is a unique combination of culture, heritage,
gastronomy and leisure and offers a once in a lifetime
experience going beyond your expectations. We are very
excited with the prospects of welcoming more Indians,
even as growth numbers in the recent past have been very
encouraging, said Mr Guillermo Eguiarte, regional director
for Asia, Mexico Tourism Board.
& SOUTH ASIA
INDIA
BEYOND YOUR EXPECTATIONS
Anchor
The Dooars Files | Inside Central India | Karnatakas Handicrafts |
The Hauz Khas Village Walkers | The Wild Side Of Bihar
G R E A T I D E A S F O R T H E T R A V E L L E R
O
34 MARCH 2013
VERDANT
VISTAS
IN 2013
Close Encounters
A wild pig ramming your car, a rhino charging your elephant. Such experiences to
treasure await in the dense, teeming forests of the Dooars.
Words AMITAVA CHAKRABARTY Photography DEBAJYOTI CHAKRABORTY
MARCH 2013 35
The verdant
charms of
Dooars
d
A
speck of red moved ran-
domly within the under-
growth at the feet of tall
eucalyptuses. Peering, I
discover a man in a
carmine red shirt
repeatedly squatting, getting up and
seemingly searching for something
among the roots of shrubs. As my
curiosity grows, finally a sunburnt
man emerges from the forest with a
handful of mushrooms.
Collecting mushrooms at this early
hour? I say.
Yes, sir, these will make a slippery
soup to help some more rice down the
gullet, the man replies.
Soon, Ghora becomes my friend. The
elderly man is a Ravaa tribe brought to
this part of North Bengal from
Chhotanagpur by the British to provide
labour for the tea plantations. I walk
alongside him for two-and-a-half miles,
with the pleasant morning sun at my back
as we cut through the lush green tea plan-
tation where his son and daughter-in-law
work for Rs 65 a day. The road meanders
into their village, Mangalbari, where goats
pick stubble from the fallow land. Naked
children play on dusty paths and men
huddle in clusters, smoking beedis and
chatting ahead of the days back-breaking
work on the plantation.
Mangalbari is a typical hamlet in the
Dooars and, ironically, I am staying at the
Tiyabon Resort at Chalsa which is
designed like a hamlet in the forest. At
Mangalbari, a church stands in the corner
of a field. Bottle gourd creepers crawl over
each thatched roof hut and a small
kitchen garden thrives before each front
door. Every backyard also has a place
to brew handia, a local rice beer.
Fortunately, I am served salted liquor tea
in a glass. As I begin taking photographs,
the entire family posesfor the first
time ever.
The Dooars are a cornucopia of luxuri-
ant shades of green. There is soothing
silence, broken only by bird calls. Lift
your gaze and watch these birds flying
against the crystal-clear, blue backdrop. As
marvellous is the sight of tumbling rivers
fed by Himalayan snow. Above all, the
jungles present a panorama of solitude
and solace.
We started our Dooars holiday with
Bindu, a remote village on the Bhutan
border where the Jaldhaka river acts as a
natural divider. The ChalsaJhalong jour-
ney is adventurous as elephants or wild
boar can block your passage while crossing
the Chapramari forest. The Jaldhaka can
be seen far below as you ascend the
Kalimpong hills, with views of a green val-
ley dotted with cottages. The Jaldhaka
Tourist Lodge makes for a pleasant stay.
This place is famous for the hydro-electric
project located here.
We then shifted to the WBFDCLs
Banani resort on the banks of the Murti. It
is the entry point for the Gorumara forest
and permission to enter the forest in cars
or on elephantback is arranged from the
36 MARCH 2013
(Clockwise from right)
Picturesque farmlands and
an adjacent village with
mountains in the distance on
the way to the Dooars; a
rhino in Dooars; locals taking
a walk; the elephant safari in
progress
Reach
By Air Bagdogra is the nearest
airport, 13 km from Siliguri.
By Rail Madarihat is the nearest
station, 7 km away.
By Road Jaldapara is connected
by road with Darjeeling and
Siliguri. North Bengal State
Transport Corporation buses, mini
buses and private buses are
available from Siliguri to Alipurduar
via Madarihat.
Stay
Jaldhaka Tourist Lodge
Rooms for Rs 1,200. Run by West
Bengal Forest Development
Corporation (WBFDCL) Ph 033
2234 8321.
Banani resort (WBFDCL) on the
bank of the Murti river. Rooms
between Rs 900 and Rs 1,760.
Alternatively, you can travel to
Lataguri from Siliguri by car (69 km)
and stay at Gachbari. At Gachbari,
Teesta tree house costs Rs 3,300
(inclusive of lunch, dinner,
breakfast and the jungle safari in
Gorumara).
In Hashimara stay at Jaldapara
Tourist Lodge, Madarihat. To reach,
use the Kanchankanya Express.
Cars are also available from Chalsa
or Murti. (Price `1,800-3,500;
Ph 03563 262 230)
NAVIGATOR
In Gorumara,
one can see
bison and rhinos,
and pythons
coiled up in trees
in the morning
sunshine
resort. The jungle safari starts early in the
morning. In addition, the charmingly
named watchtowers (Jatraprasad, Khunia,
Chukchuki) enable you to view wildlife.
In Gorumara, if lucky, you can see
bison, rhinos and pythons coiled up in
trees in the morning sunshine. Our early
morning outing let us see a couple of wild
elephants and an Indian gaur. The 80-sq-
km forest is cut across by the Jaldhaka,
Murti and Bamni.
In the afternoon we headed for
Chapramani forest, north of Gorumara.
However, Gorumara is richer in wildlife
by comparison.
You can also make a trip to Samsing, 15
km from Chalsa, or go up to Santaleykhola
(four km) and stay at the individual cot-
tages of the WBFDCLs eco tourist centre.
At Samsing, you can see hornbills, dron-
gos, thrushes, peacocks and many more
species of birds.
Then we headed for Hashimara by a
passenger train and checked in at Malangi
Lodge at Barodabri. The elephant safari at
the Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary is not to
be missed. Though the manager at
Malangi makes the booking too, priority is
given to those staying at Holong
Bungalow inside Jaldapara forest. Wild
animals come to the salt licks in the field
across from a stream opposite the
Bungalow and we saw sambar as well as
peacocks and hornbills.
As we entered Jaldapara around 5 am,
while it was still quite dark, a wild pig
(
38 MARCH 2013
rammed our car while crossing the road.
Another pig, chasing it, narrowly missed
us. Our guide explained that they might
have wriggled through broken patches in
the road fencing.
Next we were atop Madhumala, one of
the kunkis (tame elephants) of the forest
department. Mile! Mile! The mahout
shouted, kicking her gently, and she
began her journey into the dense forest.
While crossing the stream, she stopped to
drink, sloshing the water into her mouth.
Then the cavalcade of seven elephants
moved on and Madhubala took us to a
clearing where the sunlight fell on the
grassland and the tall kash flowers nodded
gently. It seemed muggy, with no trace of
the morning breeze.
It must be there, the mahout whis-
pered and urged the elephant forward.
Suddenly, a one-horned rhino charged out
of the undergrowth and we all screamed
involuntarily. Luckily, another elephant
had followed us and the rhino, now facing
two elephants, turned and lumbered off.
The Chilapata forest was next, and we
hired a car to go there. En route we saw
watchtowers in paddy fields to guard the
crop from wild elephants.
As we began our journey back, we
cherished the memory of seeing our sec-
ond rhino, crossing the river with a crane
riding on its back, from a watchtower. The
pairs silhouette against the river, a shim-
mering russet at sunset time, was an
enchanting sight.
(Left & right) Women
plucking tea leaves at
a tea garden in the
Dooars; picturesque
hills as seen from the
Dooars
MARCH 2013 39
Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench offer almost guaranteed
sightings of not only the striped cats but also a splendid
variety of other fauna and flora.
Words KUMAR MANGWANI & SMITA SINGH
The Heart Of
Tiger Land
CENTRAL
BEAUTY
IN 2013
m
MARCH 2013 41
T
he scorching Indian summer
may not seem the best time
for travel plans but, one such
season, I was happily per-
suaded by campaigns pro-
moting Kanha as one of the
finest places to see Indias fauna and decided to
give it a go.
After braving Jabalpurs blazing heat and the
stretch on upto Mandla along roads with shim-
mering tar, the breeze from the Narmada at
Mandla was heavenly. But, before entering the
tigers kingdom, a ride on the highway had to
be endured with the bus driver seemingly tak-
ing a devilish glee in thudding and knocking
over crater after crater.
But all was forgotten at Khatia gate, as we
completed the formalities and began to feel
ourselves in the kingdom of the tiger. Black-
faced langurs hopped across dry streams,
acknowledging our arrival.
The large tracts of forest around present-day
Kanha were originally tribal outlands called the
Gondwana, the Land of the Gonds, inhabited
by aboriginal tribes of Central India, the Gonds
and the Baigas, who survived on forest produce.
Traces of such indigenous ancestry can still be
seen in the villages within and outside the park
where subsistence is yet untouched by moder-
nity and rustic practices thrive.
Of the five zones that make up the 2,000-sq-
km Kanha reserve, only Kisli and Kanha are
open to visitors while Mukki, Bhaisanghat and
Suphkar remain restricted. On our first foray in
the late afternoon, we saw a large herd of chital.
Jungle hospitalitymeans good luck, said
our safari guide, referring to a successful sight-
ing. We instantly assumed we were in for a tiger
sighting. But, to our disappointment, we saw
only chousingha (four-horned antelope) and a
herd of sambar grazing by the water hole, and
wild boars with piglets in tow. The other group
of tourists, we heard, had seen a tiger.
Kanha has had an amazing success story
since the launch of Project Tiger in 1973. It has
not only hiked the big cats population but the
barasingha has also been brought back from the
brink of extinction at this breeding centre.
Earlier, there were only 60 of the deer, now
there are more than 500 within the park.
While the lowland forests are typically sal
interspersed with meadows and the highland
forests made up of tropical deciduous types, the
slopes are covered with entirely different
foliage mixed bamboo. Our guide pointed out
the leafless majesty of kullu (the Indian ghost
tree), which stood eerily against the dense
deciduous backdrop.
Deeper into the park, the trail meanders
uphill to the plateau of Bhamni Dadar and we
almost ran into a herd of grazing gaur. These
white-socked bovines looked threatening with
Reach The Khatia
and Mukki gates are
the main entry
points to Kanha.
By Air The nearest
airport is Nagpur
(260 km), with
frequent flights from
Mumbai and Delhi.
By Rail Jabalpur
(155 km) and
Bilaspur (205 km)
are the most
convenient railheads.
By Road Kanha is
best approached by
road via Mandla.
Taxis are available
from Jabalpur and
Nagpur. There are
frequent buses from
Jabalpur (165 km),
with a changeover
at Mandla. Kanha
can also be
approached from
Raipur (219 km) and
Bilaspur.
NAVIGATOR
42 MARCH 2013
(Clockwise from left) A
Royal Bengal Tiger gets
all the attention from
tourists at Kanha
National Park; an Indian
skimmer; a panther at
Kanha; a branderi
barasingha found only in
Kanha National Park
4
(Clockwise from right)
A herd of branderi
barasingha at Kanha
National Park; a
crocodile basks at
Kanha; elephant safari
in the park; a langur
in Kanha
MARCH 2013 000
their massive build and rugged horns. However,
they gave a surprised snort or two and returned
to the business of grazing.
After a nap and lunch, as we set out again,
there was a minor commotion in the grass. It
was a monitor lizard, said the guide. But we all
missed it. As the sun began to dip, we drove
through silent thickets with only faint calls
overhead. Then came another call, this time
distinct enough for the driver to bring the
Gypsy to a crushing halt and kill the engine.
The anxious call was that of a sambar, alerting
one and all about a predator in the vicinity. The
langurs gave their tell-tale alarm. The forest
floor went deathly quiet.
Seconds later, a shrill scream rent the air and
the overhead foliage was violently shaken by
the monkeys. In the next instant, a tiger strode
out of the undergrowth with a lifeless chital in
its jaws and leaped across, scraping the fresh
kill on the dusty trail. The sight melted into
the darkening jungle.
For a few seconds, we remained unbreath-
ing. And then, we erupted in peals of pure joy.
It was only then that we realised the entire
episode had lasted not more than 10 minutes,
the sight of the striped cat only a few seconds,
but it had seemed like an eternity as I felt my
heart racing to an unbelievable high. Shaken
out of our dreamlike spell, we couldnt talk
enough about that tiger sighting, reliving every
moment of the thrill late into the night.
BANDHAVGARH The Bandhavgarh
National Parks claim to fame is its ever-oblig-
ing tigers. They say you cannot leave without
sighting one. For me, way back in 2009, our
five safaris yielded as many sightings over three
days. Bandhavgarh has the highest relative den-
sity of tigers and is increasing on the map of the
burgeoning tribe of wildlife enthusiasts. It is
one of the best places to see the striped big cat.
Also commonly seen are herds of various
deer species and monkeys. The rarer sightings
are of sloth bears, dholes and leopards. Driving
through the meadows, there are about 200 vari-
eties of birds to be seen. Frequently sighted are
drongos, kingfishers, bee-eaters and vultures.
Bandhavgarh also has ruins dating back to
the Ramayana, the Shesh-Shaiyya (the reclining
Vishnu in the backdrop of the well-preserved
waterhole), excavated caves carrying ancient
inscriptions and the Bandhavgarh fort. Thought
to be 2,000 years old, the fort finds mention in
the Shiva-Purana and is believed to have been
built for Rama to rest while returning after slay-
ing Ravana. Rama then gave the fort to
Lakshmana, his brother, to keep watch on
Lanka and thus it was called Bandhavgarh or
brothers fort.
I remember my first sighting of B2, one of
Bandhavgarhs famous tigers in recent times.
There was a rush of tourists with bazooka-like
Reach Through Tala
village where all
kinds of
accommodation are
available.
Arrangements for
entering the park
are best made here.
By Air The nearest
airports are at
Jabalpur (200 km)
and Khajuraho (250
km) with frequent
connections to
Mumbai, Bhopal and
Delhi.
By Rail The nearest
railheads are Umaria
(35 km) and Katni
(100 km) from
where pre-arranged
vehicles can be
hired for Tala.
By Road
Bandhavgarh and
Kanha are well-
connected to
Jabalpur (200 km),
Satna, Umaria and
Khajuraho.
NAVIGATOR
MARCH 2013 45
camera lenses at the spur near the Chakradhara
meadow. Walkie-talkies cackled and relayed the
message of the sighting to the Tala gate, where
everybody checks in. All the Gypsies on the
route converged to view B2, the dominant male
of the area and a massive, majestic animal.
Bandhavgarh has been home to some cele-
brated Royal Bengal Tigers. Of the famous first
pair, Charger, the fearless male, had a reputation
for showing tourists his canines while Sita, said
to be the most photographed tigress in the
world, made it to the cover of National
Geographic. Charger apparently died in a territor-
ial conflict with his grandson, B2, and was
buried in the Magadhi zone. The grave is called
Chargers point. The pairs daughter, Mohini,
and her litter of threeB1, B2 and B3were
never shy of tourists. In 2011, I read about the
death of B2. His descendant, Bamera, is the cur-
rent dominant male. Even today, the safari
guides narrate incidents from the life of B2
once Bandhavgarhs uncrowned ruler.
PENCH The Pench Tiger Reserve comprises a
total of 1,180 sq km, out of which a core area of
411 sq km are the Indira Priyadarshini Pench
National Park and the Mowgli Pench Sanctuary
and the remaining 768 sq km is the buffer
area.The area of the present tiger reserve has a
glorious history. A description of its natural
wealth and richness occurs in Ain-i-Akbari. The
Pench Tiger Reserve and its neighbourhood is
the original setting of Rudyard Kiplings most
famous work, The Jungle Book. It takes its name
from the meandering Pench river which flows
through the park. The reserve sprawls over a
breathtaking landscape of hills, forests and val-
leys.
The Pench National Park is very rich in
fauna and a number of endangered species have
made it their home. There are around 55 tigers
under the protection of the park. A total of 39
species of mammals, 13 species of reptiles, three
46 MARCH 2013
species of amphibians and over 210 varieties
of birds have already been listed. The area is
blessed with forests spread in all directions.
The forest type here is southern tropical dry
deciduous teak and southern tropical mixed
deciduous forest with other species of shrubs,
trees and climbers. Teak and its varieties
such as moyan, mahua, mokha, skiras, tendu,
bija, achar, garari, aonla, ghont, baranga,
amaltas, kihamali, khair and palas are found
here. Bamboo too occurs sparsely.
As prey concentration is high along the
Pench river, tiger sightings are quite frequent
in this belt. Leopards and jungle cats are
occasionally seen in the deep forest also.
Chital, sambar and nilgai are commonly seen
grazing in open spaces at roadsides and on
the banks of the river and reservoirs. Jackals
can be seen in search of food all over the
park. Packs of upto 15 wild dogs can be seen
near the Chhedia, Jamtara, Bodanala and
Pyorthadi areas of the reserve. Herds of gaur
can be spotted near streams and bamboo
patches in the summer months. Sloth bears
occupy hilly, rocky outcrops and favour the
mahul bel-infested forest. Chinkara is pre-
sent in very small numbers and is found in
the open areas around Turia, Telia and
Dudhgaon villages.
(Clockwise from top
left) Chital at Pench
National Park; a
stream in Pench; a
handsome gaur in the
park; a gaggle of
tigers on a stroll
Reach By Air The
nearest airport to
Pench is Nagpur (80
km). Regular flights
to Mumbai and Pune
are available from
the airport.
By Rail The nearest
railhead is Nagpur
(80 km).
By Road The nearest
bus junction is at
Seoni and Khawasa
which are connected
to all cities in
Madhya Pradesh and
Maharashtra by
private and public
bus services.
NAVIGATOR
MARCH 2013 47
M
adhya Pradesh has a cultural
heritage that is ancient and has a
chequered history. Innumerable
monuments, exquisitely carved
temples, stupas, forts and palaces on hilltops
recreate in the visitors mind visions of empires
and kingdoms, of great warriors and builders,
poets and musicians, saints and philosophers; of
Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Islam.
KHAJURAHO: The 9th to 12th century tem-
ples of Khajuraho, which are listed on the
UNESCO World Heritage Site List, are evi-
dence of the architectural genius during the
reign of the Chandela dynasty. Khajuraho oozes
passion, eroticism, and the play of dance and
music and other forms of creative arts depicted
in the sculpture and decoration of the temples.
The 85 temples were built in the North Indian
Nagara style of architecture, though only 20 of
them have survived the attrition of weather con-
ditions over the years. There are two richly dis-
tinctive groups of templesthe Western and
Eastern groups.
BHIMBETKA: The sprawling caves of
Bhimbetka are located about 45 km northeast of
Bhopal, the states capital city. Situated along
the Bhopal-Hoshangabad highway, these caves
are proximate to Bhiyapura village in Raisen dis-
trict. The rock paintings in the caves have
numerous layers belonging to various epochs of
time, ranging from the Upper Paleolithic and
Mesolithic Ages to the protohistoric, early his-
toric and medieval periods. The most ancient
scenes here are believed to belong to the
Mesolithic Age. These magnificent paintings
can be seen even on the roofs of the rock shel-
ters. Executed mainly in red and white, with the
occasional use of green and yellow, with themes
taken from everyday life of those times, the
paintings depict hunting, dancing, horse and
elephant riding, animal fights, honey collection,
decoration of bodies, disguises, masks and vari-
ous animals.
BHOPAL: The historic city offers insight into
the architectural splendour and building design
of the era when Bhopal was a princely state
(1715-1949). The Taj Mahal, the palace built by
Shahjehan Begum, who ruled from 1868 to
1901, is most notable. Not far from the Taj
Mahal is the Royal ensemble of manzil and
mahal, a group of palaces contributed by various
begums over a period of 100 years. The most
enchanting among them are Gohar Mahal, Sadar
Manzil and Shaukat Mahal. The chowk (old mar-
ketplace) with its narrow lanes forming a maze
of closely-packed shops is an interesting compo-
nent of the old town.
Adding to the architectural heritage of the
city are its mosques. Among the distinguished
mosques are the Jama Masjid built by Qudsia
Begum in 1837 and the Moti Masjidakin to
Delhis Jama Masjidbuilt by Sikandar Jehan
Begum in 1860. Also significant are the Dhai
Sidi-ki-Masjid, the smallest mosque in Asia, and
the Taj-ul-Masjid, reputedly the biggest one on
the continent, inspired by Shahjehan Begum.
One of the most notable post-Independence
contributions to Bhopals architecture is Bharat
Bhavan, a prestigious centre of art and culture.
Another significant recent addition is the
Museum of Manan open-air exhibition
sprawled on the Shamla Hills, displaying tribal
habitats from all over India.
Temples, caves, forts, stupas, palaces and gateways, all embellished with
exquisite carvings, paintings and sculptureshistory comes alive in art here.
Land Of Poetry In Stone
CENTRAL
BEAUTY
IN 2013
48 MARCH 2013
Reach Khajuraho
By Air There are
daily domestic
flights to all the
major cities of the
country.
By Rail The nearest
railway stations are
Mahoba (77 km),
Satna (116 km) and
Jhansi (175 km). All
of these are well-
connected to most
of the major cities
of India.
Reach Bhimbetka
By Air/Rail/Road
One has to reach
Bhopal first, from
Bhopal taxis can be
hired. Bhopal is
well-connected by
air, rail and road to
all the major cities
of the country.
NAVIGATOR
(Clockwise from top) A
sculpture at the Northern
gateway to the Sanchi
stupa; a carving at a
temple in Khajuraho;
Gwalior Fort
MARCH 2013 49
GWALIOR: Gwalior was once the seat of the
Rajputs (Pratiharas, Kachwahas and Tomars) and
then the Marathas and Mughals who have left
behind palaces, forts, temples, and monuments.
At the heart of Gwalior is the fortress (Gwalior
Fort) built by Raja Man Singh Tomar. This for-
midable structure had the reputation of being
one of the most invincible forts of India. There
are many kunds, and the 84-pillared step well
built by Man Singh Tomar, the Sas-Bahu temple
and the 9th-century Teli-ka-Mandir are repre-
sentative of the Hindu architectural style. The
Jehangir Mahal and Shah Jahan Mahal are beau-
tiful examples of Mughal architecture. A beauti-
ful mausoleum built over the grave of
Mohammed Ghaus displays an early Mughal
style of architecture. The tomb of Tansen, one
of the nine jewels of Akbars court, built in a
very modest design, has been placed near the
tomb of his Guru, Mohammed Ghaus.
The palatial complexes of Moti Mahal, Jai Vilas
and Usha Kiran show a marked European influ-
ence and the Indo-Saracenic style. The exquis-
ite Man Mandir palace is a building of sophisti-
cated artistic affluence. A white marble gurud-
wara, Data Bandi Chor, built in memory of the
imprisonment of the sixth Sikh guru here,
stands as a huge campus in front of the Teli-ka-
Mandir. There are also fine examples of colonial
architecture, such as the residential Scindia
school and the Sardar school.
ORCHHA: Located 16 km from Jhansi,
Orchha rises out of the hills and the greens sur-
rounding it. One of the oldest historical monu-
ments in the fort complex, the Raj Mahal is
famous for its chhatris (cenotaphs) and exquisite
murals on the interiors. Considered the best
piece of architecture in Orchha, the Jahangir
Mahal is a reminder of the friendship that pre-
vailed between the Mughals and Bundelas for a
long time. The palace is situated a few steps
from the Rai Praveen Mahal, another important
palace of Orchha. The town has some notewor-
(Clockwise from above)
Tourists at the Bhimbetka
caves; the Bhimbetka rock
caves are a World Heritage
Site; lake cruise in Bhopal;
the elegant Raj Mahal at
Orchha
50 MARCH 2013
Reach Bhopal
By Air Raja Bhoj
Airport is 15 km
away from the heart
of the city.
By Rail Bhopal
railway station is
well-connected to
all railheads of the
country.
Reach Orchha
By Air/Rail Jhansi
(18 km) is the
nearest railway
station and Gwalior
(120 km) the
nearest airport.
NAVIGATOR
thy temples like the Ram Raja Temple, the
Chaturbhuj temple and the Lakshmi Narayan
temple. One can opt for an excursion to Barua
Sagar, a dam on the Betwa river, or visit the
Pratihara temple and the Jarai-ka-Math.
CHANDERI: The town of Chanderi is com-
posed of a labyrinth of lanes full of archaeological
remains that bear testimony to its long
and eventful past. The imposing building of
Koshak Mahal, located on the Isagarh road at a dis-
tance of four kilometres from Chanderi proper,
was built in 1445 as a victory monument. The ele-
gant Shehzadi Ka Rauza, built on a 12-foot-high
platform, stands near the Parmeshwar Pond. The
Purana Madarsa, built in 1450, is actually the tomb
of a mudarris (teacher) and the aalim (vice-chan-
cellor) of the darool uloom (university) which was
functional during this period. The Kati Ghati
Gateway is situated on the southern edge of
Chanderi. Other than these, there are many more
historical monuments worth discovering.
SANCHI: Sanchi is a village, about 9 km
southwest of Vidisha and 46 km from
Bhopal. It is the site of a great Buddhist stupa
listed on the UNESCO World Heritage
List. Sanchi is famous throughout the world for
its stupas, monasteries, temples and pillars,
which date back to the 3rd century BCE till
the 12th century BCE. Built atop hills, these
stupas contain relics, mostly of the Buddhas
disciples. The four gateways, constructed in 1
BCE, are considered the best Buddhist
expression in the world. These gateways are
covered with wonderful architectural carvings
and depict stories related to the Buddha's life.
The Ashoka pillar, which has four lions like
those in Sarnath, is there in Sanchi as
well. The Sanchi museum, which is run under
the supervision of the Archaeological Survey of
India, houses the Ashoka pillar along with
other items found from areas of Sanchi such as
utensils and other items used by the monks
at Sanchi.
MARCH 2013 51
Reach Sanchi
By Air/Rail Bhopal is
the nearest airport,
45 km away. The
nearest railhead is
Vidisha, 10 km
away.
Reach Chanderi
By Air/Rail The
nearest airports are
at Bhopal (258 km)
and Gwalior (259
km). Lalitpur, 36 km
from Chanderi, is
the nearest station.
Ashok Nagar, 44
km away, is also a
major railhead.
NAVIGATOR
I
n addition to its other attractions, Madhya
Pradesh also has a fair share of adventure
activities to offer. You can trek, rock climb,
parasail, raft and kayak if you are an adven-
ture sport enthusiast. The activities are of easy
to moderate difficulty and suitable even for first-
timers. And, if you are simply a nature-lover,
there are plenty of scenic picnic spots and nature
trails to hike along, with family in tow.
One of the most scenic places, Pachmarhi is
popular for parasailing. You are strapped into the
harness of a parasail which is then towed by a
jeep. As the jeep picks up speed, the parasail is
lifted into the air and one has the exhilarating
experience of being carried up by the wind.
Pachmarhi is a great destination for trekkers,
hikers and bikers as well as the Satpura range is
in its vicinity. Enjoy the trek through the lush
green forests of Pachmarhi. Start from the
Pandav Caves and go right up to Dhoopgarh,
passing by the gushing Big Falls.
For trekkers, all the roads from Amarkantak
within a three-km radius are excellent trekking
routes where one can behold the beauty of
nature in its untouched form. Here, you also get
the perfect setting for mountaineering in the
Maikal mountain region.
The Betwa and Jamini rivers and forests near-
by make Orchha an adventurer's paradise. The
Betwa is wide and its placid flow is intermittently
broken by Grade I and Grade II rapids. It is a
whitewater kayakers dream and is also for those
looking for some easy rafting. A thickly forested
island that has formed between the Betwa and
the Jamini offers some exciting cycling/ hiking
trails. The rock faces at the island offer easy to
moderate rock climbing/ rappelling/ bouldering
while the forest trails are a nature-lover's paradise.
The boat club at the Upper lake in Bhopal offers
boating facilities and also various water activities
like cruises and stillwater kayaking, which is one
of the prime attractions in Bhopal. Bhojtal is the
largest artificial lake in Asia.
Tigra Dam is a popular picnic spot on the
bank of the Chambal river, 10 km from Gwalior
city. It is ideal for weekend getaways, with its
picturesque setting and bracing environs. Visitors
can try boating and fishing as well.
Shivpuri is surrounded by deep woody forest
that is a treasure trove of flora and fauna. An
adventure trip along the jungle paths is exhila-
rating. The wildlife sanctuaries that preserve
endangered animal and bird species add special
charm to Shivpuris natural beauty. Adventure-
lovers can opt for short trips along the challeng-
ing paths, amid lush vegetation and fabulous
views of a ruined fort, three Hindu temples, and
a monastery.
Taste Of Thrill
Reach Amarkantak
By Air Jabalpur is
the nearest airport,
245 km away.
By Rail The closest
railway station to
Amarkantak is
Pendra Road, 17 km
away.
Reach Tigra Dam
By Air Gwalior is
the nearest airport,
10 km away.
By Rail Gwalior, the
nearest railway
station, is a major
rail junction and is
well-connected to
all the major cities
of the country.
NAVIGATOR
Scenic locales with nature trails, rockfaces and rivers provide a variety
of options for adventurers and nature-lovers.
CENTRAL
BEAUTY
IN 2013
52 MARCH 2013
(Clockwise from top left)
Parasailing at Pachmarhi;
a cenotaph at Shivpuri; a
viewpoint at Amarkantak;
rafting on the Betwa river
in Orchha
MARCH 2013 53
The holy Narmada, and a cluster of
pilgrimage sites, unchanged for centuries,
draw those in quest of spirituality.
Realm Of
The Sacred
M
adhya Pradesh, in large part, has
remained almost unaltered, having
strayed with unintended intention
from economical uplift. With the
footprints of its past still revisited, the state reels
in the devout to its far-flung temples and places
of worship. For centuries, pilgrims have
embarked upon cementing their faith, based
upon the mythological complexity fashioned by
generations before them. The Narmada is not a
mere river, but a goddess, a mother, and traces
the hallowed landscape, leaving behind sacred
imprints along her banks.
A split in her flow has shaped the small island
of Omkareshwar, overlooked by the rugged folds
of the towering Vindhyas and Satpuras. Seen
from above, the spiky protruding crests could be
sketched vaguely into a form resembling the
Hindu symbol, Om, hence the name. With shy
grace, the Narmada streams past the five-tiered
temple of Shiva, one of the twelve jyotirlingams.
Here, pilgrims seek Shivas blessing and follow
the well-trampled path of the parikrama (circum-
ambulation), propitiating the god with a bath at
the confluence of the Triveni Sangam. Beyond
the temple spire the island rises in stepped ter-
races with houses and shrines in a labyrinthine
maze encompassing quite a medieval atmos-
R
CENTRAL
BEAUTY
IN 2013
54 MARCH 2013
phere, far removed from modern bustle.
Further west and downstream, the Narmada
connects to Maheshwar, occasionally visited and
not as teeming as Omkareshwar. This ancient
port of call for Hindu pilgrims finds mention in
the early epics as Mahishmati, the capital of
King Sahasrarjun, who, the boatmen will retell in
fairytale-like parables, dammed the mighty river
with his thousand arms when his 500 wives
wanted a vast playground. Mirrored along the
quiet riverfront, the long flight of steps leads you
through the honey-coloured temple faade and
the ancient fort complex built by the Holkars
that has been retained in a surprisingly
admirable condition.
There is nothing much to do but idle about
the many temples dotting this sleepy town or
take a skiff and go across the river for a serene
sunset. On the way back, visit the Baneshwar
temple in the middle of the Narmada for a
momentary disengagement from external realms.
The temple is believed to lie on the axis con-
necting Earths centre with the Pole Star.
Ujjains teeming riverfront is a quintessential
Hindu India where the Shipra flows with seem-
ing indolence and pilgrims absolve themselves
with intentional rituals, where children frolic as
children will and tourists stroll along the temple-
lined bank. Owing its sacred nature to a drop of
ambrosial nectar, this unassuming river head-
quarters the religious congregations during the
Kumbh Mela when, once in 12 years, this other-
wise undaunted city bursts with the countless
pilgrims thronging its ageless ghats. A short walk
from the site of this spectacular show is Ujjains
age-old milestone, the Mahakaleshwar temple.
Its subterranean chamber houses the unusual,
south-facing jyotirlingams, giving it a strong
tantric connection. Ujjain and its surrounds were
once potent sites harbouring cults of tantric prac-
tice and even today the Harsiddhi temple,
believed to be a centre of devi worship, is remi-
niscent of those bygone days. Close by is another
temple devoted to Ganesha, as Chintamani, the
destroyer of worries.
Chitrakoot is a celebrated Vaishnavite pilgrim-
age site. Adjacent forests are filled with hermits.
Legend says that all the gods and goddesses
gathered here when Rama performed the last
rites of his father. When the time came to depart,
the family priest forgot to chant the departing
mantras and so the entire pantheon stayed back
in Chitrakoot. It is said Tulsidas sought, and got,
a darshan of Rama here. The profusion of tem-
ples along the Mandakini River lends Chitrakoot
a highly spiritual dimension.
(Clockwise from top left)
An aerial view of
Omkareshwar; the
Chitrakoot waterfalls; a
temple of Lord Shiva inside
Ahilya fort at Maheshwar; a
priest performs aarti pooja
on the bank of the Shipra
river in Ujjain
Reach Omkareshwar
By Air Indore airport
(80 km) is the
nearest airport.
By Rail
Omkareshwar
railway station is 12
km from the
Omkareshwar city
centre.
Reach Ujjain
By Air Devi
Ahilyabai Holkar
Airport, Indore (55
km), is the nearest.
By Rail Ujjain
Junction is well
connected to the
major railway
stations of India.
NAVIGATOR
MARCH 2013 55
K
arnataka is a wondrous
treasure trove of a vast
array of arts and crafts,
the origins of which go
several centuries back in
time. The states crafts
straddle various disciplines, including
wood, ivory and copra carving, lacquer
and bidriware, Mysore painting and
Kasuti embroidery. Many of these crafts,
that reflect the rich heritage of
Karnataka, are region-specific and in
their time flourished immensely due to
the royal patronage they received from
various sovereigns.
BIDRIWARE: The craft gets its name
from Bidar town where it was introduced
in the 13th century by the Persian crafts-
man, Abdullah-bin-Kaiser, during the
rule of the Bahamani Sultans. The
unique metalware, with its characteristic
black sheen and striking inlay work,
caught the fancy of Allauddin, the 10th
Bahmani ruler, who patronised the craft.
In its Persian avatar, the craft involved
gold and silver being inlaid on a steel or
copper base and the motifs most often
included passages from the Quran in
Arabic script and floral patterns.
However, bidriware, as it has come to be
practised in Bidar, involves inlay of sil-
ver, and occasionally gold, on objects
made of an alloy of zinc and copper.
Bidriware obtains its characteristic
black sheen from a special soil that is
available only in Bidarinside its fort.
Fashioned With Finesse
Bidriware obtains its
characteristic black sheen
from a special soil that is
available only in Bidar
inside its fort
56 MARCH 2013
The crafts of Karnataka are intricately handled and reflect the rich heritage of the state to a great extent.
Words & Photography CHITRA RAMASWAMY
CRAFTED
LEGACY
IN 2013
In fact, Bidri artisans, it is believed,
identify good quality soil from the fort,
merely by tasting it with the tip of their
tongue, even today! The craftsmen
believe that powdered metal from cop-
per coins made during the reign of the
Bahamani rulers within the fort complex
seeped into the soil, giving it its particu-
lar property. Yet others believe that
weapons stored underground in the fort
accorded the soil its nature. Scientific
circles attribute the black colour to cop-
per being present in the alloy, or proba-
bly because of the presence of potassium
nitrate, a compound found in well-uri-
nated soil. Whatever the theory, the fact
remains that the soil used in making
bidriware has not seen sunlight or rain
for centuries, enabling it to be used as
an oxidising agent!
By the mere alchemy of touch, the
artists transform mud and metal into an
object of alluring beauty. Exquisite as
the final product is, bidriware craft is
laborious and comprises several steps in
its crafting. Artists first sketch the intri-
cate floral or geometric designs on the
grey leaden metal background that is
cast, using a mud mould. A black coating
is given to this after smoothing out the
rough surface. Intricate patterns are then
incised on this metal surface with small
chisels. Once the entire design has taken
shape on the metal, the inlay process
begins. Thin silver or gold wires are
hammered into the groovy motifs.
Buffing and smoothening are once again
done and the temporary black coating
removed, exposing the original grey hue.
At this stage, Bidars unique soil steps in
to create its magical charm. The soil is
blended with ammonium chloride and
heated. And voila, the grey gives way to
black. A dash of final polish and we have
a beautiful Bidri piece on the shelf!
MARCH 2013 57
state to a great extent.
W
(Clockwise from
extreme left) Vases of
all shapes in; a bidri
artist at work; a jewel
box in bidriware;
sandalwood elephant,
a favourite motif in
Karnataka crafts
Though bidri craft has obtained the
Geographical Indication tag to certify
Bidars monopoly in creating it, it is
struggling to keep itself alive due to the
rising costs of raw materials and dimin-
ished soil availability.
MYSORE PAINTING: Mysore paint-
ing, named for the town where it origi-
nated, is an offshoot of the Vijayanagar
School of Painting, patronised by the
Vijayanagar rulers during the 14th and
15th centuries. Attention to detail, ele-
gance, gesso work or gold covering, its
special feature, and muted colours using
vegetable dyes, make these paintings
coveted by art lovers. Following a brief
decline after the fall of the Vijayanagar
Empire in 1565, Mysore paintings
regained their glory with Krishnaraja
Wodeyar III. The art, in present times, is
being revived through training schools
set up in Bengaluru. Typically, the paint-
ings reveal a fascinating range of themes
that include portraits of historical figures,
the artists themselves, the pantheon
of Hindu deities and episodes from
Hindu mythology.
The labour involved in creating a sin-
gle painting is worthwhile in the end.
Every finished work appears a master-
piece unto itself. The patterns or motifs
are first sketched on paper which is past-
ed on a wooden board. A paste is made
of Arabic and zinc oxide to give an
embossed or raised effect of carving to
those areas of the painting that need to
be embellished. The thin gold foil is
then pasted where required and the rest
of the surface is then painted with water
colours. After the paint dries, a thin
paper is placed upon it and rubbed with
a smooth stone. The paper is then
removed to reflect the rich tone of the
relief work.
This unique form of painting that
resembles Tamil Nadus Tanjore paint-
ing was established in the 17th and 18th
centuries and reached the pinnacle of
glory during the reign of Maharaja
Krishnaraja Wodeyar. Known for the
intricacy of motifs, delicate strokes and
graceful delineation of its subjects, the
paintings expressed the entire gamut
of human emotions, especially associated
with divinity and spirituality.
Traditionally, the art form as it incepted,
was done on paper and pasted on cloth
or wood. Earlier, paints as well as brush-
es used in the art were made from natur-
al resources, including leaves, vegetables
and minerals. A special type of grass, and
hairs of squirrel, goat and camel were
used to make the brushes. These natural
ingredients have now been replaced by
synthetic dyes and readymade brushes.
KASUTI EMBROIDERY: This tradi-
tional embroidery form that has carved a
n
(From left to right)
Mysore painting
done on a wall;
lacquerware eggs
from Chennapatna;
Kasuti embroidery
on raw silk sarees
58 MARCH 2013
niche for itself in the world of art on fab-
ric, is considered to be the oldest form of
embroidery in India and was widely
practised in Dharwad district of
Karnataka. Kasuti, which derives its
name from kai meaning hand, and suti
meaning cotton was born during the
Chalukyan era between the 6th and 12th
centuries when the embroidery was
done by Karnatakan women in
Dharwad, by hand on cotton fabric.
However, history records that Kasuti was
originally pursued by the Lambani clan
of Rajasthan who migrated to Karnataka
and kept alive their traditional craft in
the region, creating the embroidery on
silks particularly donned by brides for
their wedding. Called Kashida embroi-
dery in North India, Kasuti was earlier
done on Ilkal sarees ethnic to
Karnatakas Ilkal town. In fact, blue-
black Ilkal sarees with Kasuti embroi-
dery were a customary gift to brides in
earlier times. Most often, the brides
themselves embroidered the special
nine-yard chandrakali saree.
Four basic stitches define Kasuti
embroidery, the designs of which reflect
a feminine angle. Gavanti (double run-
ning stitch), Murgi, or the zigzag stitch,
Neygi or darning stitch and Menthe, or
cross-stitch, are used to create motifs on
sarees, blouses and dress materials. The
stitches are best highlighted against dark
backgrounds and thick materials though
they look just as elegant on the more
delicate Mysore silk sarees.
Kasuti technique involves weaving
the patterns by counting warp and weft
threads. Needless to say, it is time-con-
suming and laborious, involving thou-
sands of stitches in crafting six yards of
drape! Earlier, the pattern to be embroi-
dered would be first marked with char-
coal or pencil and then worked upon
with needle and thread, counting each
thread on the cloth. In modern times,
the motifs are traced on thin paper or
loosely woven gauze which is stitched
on to the cloth on which the embroidery
is to be done. This paper is pulled off
once the embroidery is completed.
The striking feature of Kasuti
embroidery is that patterns are stitched
without using knots to ensure that both
sides of the cloth look alike. Usually the
patterns are dense on the borders and
palloo and become sparse in the body of
Kasuti was originally
pursued by the Lambani
clan of Rajasthan who
migrated to Karnataka
and kept alive their
traditional craft
MARCH 2013 59
the saree. While the original motifs for
the embroidery included temple towers,
animals, flowers, bells and temple chari-
ots, the patterns are becoming increas-
ingly geometrical and replicate rangoli
designs in present times. The Karnataka
Handicrafts Development Corporation,
which holds the Geographical
Indications (GI) protection tag for Kasuti
embroidery, is doing its best to keep the
declining craft alive.
WOODCRAFT: Vijayanagar rulers
patronised the Kinhal form of woodcraft
in the 14th century, examples of which
are extensively found even today in
Hampi. Wood of the drumstick, hale and
polka trees is used along with tamarind
seeds and pebbles to sculpt cradles,
palkis, idols, particularly of the Hindu
gods and goddesses, birds and animals
and also frames and jewel boxes.
The rich beauty of this wooden craft
from Karnataka, known for its brilliant
craftsmanship and innovative concepts,
include lacquerware from Chennapatna,
Gokak toys, and sculpting a plethora of
artifacts and utilities on ebony, redwood,
rosewood, red cedar, sheesham, teak, sal
and the most famed sandalwood that
brings with it the whiff of fragrance for
which it is much sought after, both in the
domestic as well as international markets.
SANDALWOOD AND OTHER
HARDWOOD CRAFTS: While covet-
ed abroad for aesthetics no less than for
fragrance, the aromatic sandalwood prod-
ucts are inextricably interwoven in the
cultural fabric of the country, in the ritu-
alistic practices and traditions in temples
and homes. The sandalwood trees are
uprooted during the monsoon when the
roots are rich in oil. While oil is extracted
from its roots and trunk, and powder for
incense made from its bark, the inner
wood of the tree is used for carving pur-
poses. The gudigar families who hail
from Mysore, Kumta, Honavar and Sorab
towns of the state are known for their
prowess in sandalwood carving. While
the yellowish-brown close-grained srig-
andha variety of sandalwood is used for
the carvings, the dark-brown nagagandha
variety is used for oil extraction and
incense. Figurines and life-size statues of
deities, particularly of Lord Krishna with
flute in hand, royal elephants and the
Buddha, are oft repeated carvings in san-
dalwood. Yet, no two pieces are identical.
E
(From left to right)
Men at work in a
Lacquerware plant in
Channapatna near
Mysore; sandalwood
carvings of Mysore;
intricate crafts on
the outer wall of
the Hoysaleswara
temple
Vijayanagar rulers
patronised the Kinhal
form of woodcraft in
the 14th century; it is
still found in Hampi
60 MARCH 2013
Examples of delicate and intricate
wooden carvings done to perfection with
attention to every minute detail can be
seen on temple and palace doors, lintels
and ceilings in Karnataka. These are
carved from ebony, redwood, rosewood,
teak, sheesham, sal, red cedar and dudhi
trees and display a high degree of archi-
tectural skill. No less exquisite are items
of furniture, jewel boxes, holders for sta-
tionery items, wall hangings and life-size
statues of deities. Carving, coating,
painting and polishing is the sequence
of work involved in the craft. Wherever
inlay work is involved, it is undertaken
before the coating process.
LACQUERWARE: The small town of
Chennapatna, about 60 km from
Bengaluru, is famed for its large array of
unique wooden lacquerware products,
especially toys and jewelry. Chitragars or
the artisans engaged in making a host of
lacquered items, including utility items
and kitchen and tableware, hail from the
villages surrounding Chennapatna, the
most prominent among them being the
Yelekeri, Diara and Makkan villages.
The art form is attributed to one
Bavasmia, a local artist who is believed
to have studied the craft in Punjab and
introduced it in his native Chennapatna.
Chennapatna toys, the most sought-
after lacquered items, are crafted in
bright colours with overtones of red,
green and yellow, keeping in mind every
minute detail. Both natural and synthet-
ic raw materials are used in producing
lacquerware. While the hale wood,
insect-produced lac and talegiri or screw
pine leaves are the basic natural raw
materials sourced from the forests of
Karnataka, paints and pigments are the
synthetic materials used in lacquerware.
Since hale wood has a very low oil and
moisture content, it makes for a translu-
cent finish after polishing. Occasionally,
artisans swap ebony, pine, yellow teak,
red cedar, rosewood, redwood and silver
oak for the much preferred hale.
The lacquered wooden items are
made through the lac-turnery process
which involves turning the wood on the
lathe and is deftly done by both men
and women in these villages. The wood
of the hale tree is first cut into the
required size and shape and prepared by
being stored away from heat and sun-
light for a period of 10 days to a month.
This done, it is rotated using a hand or
power lathe to smoothen it. Frictional
heat is used to lacquer the turned wood-
en objects by applying prepared lacquer
sticks of different colours to the rotating
wooden items. Artisans use patris or the
hand lathes to lacquer delicate and thin
objects. Finishing touches are given by
buffing the objects with the leaves of
the talegiri plant. The lacquerware
MARCH 2013 61
industry began by predominantly creat-
ing toys but time and changing market
demand has diversified into producing
other items, including educational tools
and decorative pieces. Lacquerware jew-
elry, in particular, is exported to the US
and Europe.
WOODEN TOYS OF GOKAK:
Wooden toys of Gokak are almost 200
years old and have their origins in
Gokak, a village in Belgaum district of
Karnataka. Distinct from the wooden
ware of Chennapatna, Gokak toys, 144
variants of them, take the shapes of flora
and fauna. Fruits, vegetables, birds and
animals, created from the hale, polka
and hariwala wood, come in bright hues
with a realistic touch to them. The
hereditary craft, pursued by artisans
called jingars, is yet again a tedious one
involving several stages.
The craft, as it originated, made use
of purely natural substances in giving
colour to the objects of lure. Powdered
pebbles are mixed with liquid gum and
passed through sieves to be filtered and
made into a paste. The crafted wooden
pieces are then evenly coated with this
mixture. A layer of chalk powder blended
with gum is then applied upon this coat-
ing. Any rough surface is made smooth
using sandpaper. Colours made from veg-
etables and natural substances that were
used in earlier times have now been
replaced by readymade synthetic dyes.
Most Gokak toys come as fruits and
vegetables, either singly, or in bunches as
grapes and bananas. Melons, pomegran-
ates and certain other juicy fruits are
shown cut, exposing their pulp and seeds,
to appear realistic. Unlike in other wood-
en creations indigenous to Karnataka, one
gets to see very small items like spices,
betel nuts and betel leaves in Gokak
woodcraft, thus according this cottage
industry pride of place in the sphere of
traditional Indian dollmaking.
IVORY CARVING: Ivory craft devel-
oped in Mysore as an integral part of
woodcraft, taking the form of intricate
inlay work on wood. The art, as did sev-
eral other crafts of Karnataka, received
royal patronage and reached its pinnacle
during the 17th century when artisans
used ivory chips and even deer horn to
turn out exquisite items of dcor. The
ceilings and doors of the several palaces
in Mysore exhibit a range of inlay work
that reflects the highly skilled nature of
its artisans. One would find inlay work
done predominantly on hard wood,
ebony and rosewood in particular.
The themes of the inlays are varied:
they reflect the history, heritage, life and
traditions of the region. Pet inlay
themes, however, seem to revolve around
elephants, tigers and village scenes. An
o
(From left to
right) Wooden
fruits of Gokak;
Chennapatna lac
bangles;
Chennapatna
lacquerware,
colour all the way
62 MARCH 2013
oft-repeated subject of most Karnatakan
craft is its world famous Mysore
Dussehra.
Designs are first drawn on the rose-
wood which is then cut to shape by
expert carpenters involved in the craft.
The patterns to be inlaid are then deftly
hand-cut to shape, creating grooves for
the ivory to be inlaid. Once the inlay
motifs are fixed, the entire surface is
made smooth, using sandpaper. The
final touch is given by polishing the
item which now assumes a soft sheen.
In present times, much of the inlay
work is done using different shades and
kinds of wood instead of ivory or deer
horn chips.Especially spectacular are the
furniture, jewel and cosmetic boxes, and
wall hangings made of wood and inlay.
COPRA CRAFT: Carved Copra bridal
dolls! Yes, entirely ethnic to Karnataka,
Coconut, considered sacred and auspi-
cious in southern India, appears in an
entirely different garbin designer
avatar during Kannadiga weddings. The
dry coconut or copra is engraved to rep-
resent the bride and groom, draped in all
finery on the occasion. A pair of copra
dolls is presented to a girl on her wed-
ding by her in-laws. Along with the
dolls, other engravings of Hindu deities
on full or half copra are also exchanged
between the wedding parties. Very
often, the names of the bride and groom
are sculpted on the full copra and pre-
sented to the girl. In present times,
natives of other states who have made
Karnataka their home have also adopted
this wedding ritual for the sheer aesthet-
ics of copra art!
Engraving on the dry coconut is a
tedious task requiring immense patience
and skill of hand. The desired patterns
are first drawn on the copra with pencil
or fine-tipped markers. A blade or sharp
knife is then used to sculpt the pen-
ciled areas. The dark brown skin of the
copra is scraped to give shape to birds,
flowers, faces of people and deities.
Against the cream kernel of the remain-
ing copra, the etched brown stands pro-
nounced, highlighting the patterns.
When finished, the copra is given a coat
of varnish, both to provide sheen to the
end product and to keep it in a state of
preservation. What was earlier a home
craft is now a commercial venture with
shops offering them throughout the year,
anywhere in Karnataka.
Most Gokak toys
come as fruits and veg-
etables, either singly,
or in bunches as grapes
and bananas
MARCH 2013 63
WALK
OF JOY
64 MARCH 2013
Revisiting
Bohemia
Take an eclectic bunch of people, mix it up with a dose of global
cultures and you get a destination thats bound to be crowded.
Welcome to New Delhis Hauz Khas village.
Words CHRISTINE PEMBERTON Illustrations SAMBUDDHA DUTTAGUPTA
T
he old man lying on his charpoy, puffing
away contentedly at his hookah, has
finally moved on from the main street of
the Hauz Khas village. For the longest
time, as this picturesque, historic corner
of New Delhi morphed around him, this
old gentleman would spend his days out-
side his little village home, seemingly oblivious to change, as
hip slowly triumphed over traditional.
The Hauz Khas village was always a fascinating part of the
capital, with its spectacular 14th century monument and what
used to be an authentic village feel. Now, even though the
village changes at the speed of light, the monument, the lake
and the deer park remain immutable, surrounded by ever-
increasing boutiques, cafs, bars, gallerieswell, you name it
and the Hauz Khas village will probably have it.
And yet
Even though the village has spruced itself up, and you can
now sit in a wifi caf, sipping an espresso, or eat Tibetan food,
or have a drink on a rooftop bar, yet
The wires are still as much a spaghetti-esque tangle above
the narrow streets as ever, the parking is still beyond noisy and
chaotic, and on a recent visit, there were goats in one of the
side streets. But the best part among all things is that you can
never take out the stunning historic heart of this village,
which gives it a wonderfully grounded gravitas beneath its
designer faade.
To reach the village, you turn off the busy Aurobindo Marg,
and history hits you, right there. On either side of the
approach road to the village is a series of tombsthe charm-
ingly named Dadi-Poti ka gumbad (Grandmother-granddaugh-
Even though the
village changes at the
speed of light, everything
remains immutable,
surrounded by ever-
increasing boutiques,
cafs, bars, gallerieswell,
you name it and the
Hauz Khas village will
probably have it
MARCH 2013 65
ters tomb), Barah Khamba, and Sakri Gumtia scattering
of memorials that most people rush past, too eager to find a
parking spot (good luck to you). A friendly word of advice:
try parking much farther away from the village, near these
little tombs, and walk that extra half a kilometre. Theres
usually parking space available close to the jolly-looking
Jagannath Temple, near where the brush salesmen seem
to congregate, their cycles bristling with rainbow
coloured brushes.
You walk towards the entrance to the village, through
increasingly noisy, frantic traffic, but with acres of greenery
on either side of you; many of the trees are festooned with
posters and ads and flyers of the latest boutique or restau-
rants that have opened. The village itself is smallit is a
village, after alland is deliciously hemmed in by a deer
park, an even larger district park, monuments, and a lake.
The location cannot be bettered.
The Hauz Khasthe khas (royal) hauz (lake)dates
back to the 13th century, when the tank was built to provide
water for Siri, one of the medieval avatars of Delhi. Over
the ensuing decades, there followed a succession of tombs,
Hang out in a caf,
where travellers and
wannabe writers
congregate, as do
youngsters from the
offices and advertising
agencies that are also
setting up shop in one of
the citys most
happening places
66 MARCH 2013
mosques, domed pavilions, the fabulous madrasa (or islamic
seminary) as well as the tomb of the dynastic ruler, Firuz
Shah Tughlaq.
Firuz Shah Tughlaq was an enlightened man. He was a big
believer in irrigation systems and public works. He built hun-
dreds of bridges, public baths, colleges, and hospitals during
his long reign. As well as abolishing taxes and regulating
administration, he discouraged lavish lifestyles. Its a little
ironic that his austere tomb is now surrounded by boutiques
and cafs, but one hopes that he would have seen the joke.
History is at every turn in the Hauz Khas village, so the
only way to explore is to wander, letting your eyes and your
spirit guide you. Stop for a coffee, or something more substan-
tial. Many of the new cafs and restaurants have rooftop ter-
races, with stunning views. So scramble up the narrow staircas-
es and emerge into the tree cover, and soak up a perspective of
Delhi that you probably never knew existed.
Shop for old film posters, designer clothing, Bollywood-
inspired accessories, beautiful leatherwork, and expensive art.
Hang out in a caf, where travellers and wannabe writers
congregate, as do youngsters from the offices and advertising
agencies that are also setting up shop in one of the citys most
happening places.
Turn off from one of the more crowded lanes, head down
the narrow gullies, and step right back into the totally
unchanged village life of Hauz Khas, the way it used to be.
The last time I visited, I wandered through these back streets
virtually alone other than the residents. When the heavens
opened and it suddenly poured down, I was invited to take
shelter on a tiny covered verandah, where a car and a motor-
bike were squashed companionably together. I stood and
watched as two little schoolboys sloshed through every muddy
puddle available, laughing with glee. And then, when the
shower was over, I wandered deeper into the village. People
waved at me from their houses. I was offered sweet chai from a
roadside stall. A lady asked me to take a photograph of her dis-
tinctly scruffy-looking dog and giggled away at my Hindi.
When I took pictures of the goats, that did it. Smiles all around.
It is this juxtaposition of the real village in the traditional
sense of the word, existing cheek by jowl with the hip,
glossy new Hauz Khas Village that makes this corner of Delhi
so fascinating.
MARCH 2013 67
With its many national parks, and wildlife and bird sanctuaries, Bihar
is the ideal destination for wildlife and nature enthusiasts who can
view animals and birds in plenty.
Words NIVEDITA PANWAR
The Wild
Side Of Life
(
68 MARCH 2013
VERDANT
TRAILS
IN 2013
T
here are those who love leisure
and there are those who like to
view nature at close quarters.
Driven by an acute sense of
curiosity about the unknown, rough terrain is
the last thing to deter the adventurous nature-
lover. The Bihar government is also taking
steps to conserve wildlife. In 2011, it set up a
task force to conserve endangered species.
This year, it has set up the Gangetic Dolphin
Research Centre, the first of its kind in the
country, and declared October 5 Dolphin Day
to spread awareness about Indias national
aquatic animal.
VALMIKI NATIONAL PARK
Spread over 880 sq km, the park, nestled in
the Terai foothills, consists of rich fauna
populating steep ravines, sharp ridges and
fragile geographical formations. Few people
know that it is the 18th Tiger Reserve of
India and holds the fourth rank in terms of
density of tiger population. You can easily spot
leopards, fishing cats, chital, sambar, hog deer,
and blackbuck here. The Udayapur Sanctuary,
albeit small, is yet another sanctuary in the
West Champaran region.
RAJGIR SANCTUARY
With its small hills and undulating land, this
sanctuary stretches over an area of 35.84 sq
km. There are a number of hot water springs
with a high sulphur content. The sanctuary
boasts of leopards, hyenas, barking deer, bears
and nilgai. Amongst birds, peafowl, jungle
fowl, partridges, black and grey quails,
hornbills, parrots, doves and mynahs can be
easily spotted. Theres also a Bamboo Park
nearby, which is said to have been built by
King Bimbisara for Lord Buddha.
W
(From left to right) A
Royal Bengal Tiger at
Valmiki National Park; a
barking deer at
Bhimbandh Sanctuary; a
peacock at Bhimbandh
MARCH 2013 69
VALMIKI NATIONAL
PARK
Reach The nearest airport
is at Patna (295 km) and
the nearest railway station
is at Valmiki Nagar, five
kilometres away.
Rajgir Sanctuary
Reach It is located 105 km
from the Patna airport and
two kilometres from the
Rajgir railway station.
Bhimbandh Sanctuary
Reach It lies 200 km from
the Patna airport, 20 km
from the Jamui railway
station and 56 km from
Munger by road.
NAVIGATOR
(Clockwise from facing picture)
Asian openbill storks at Kaimur
Sanctuary; a school of Gangetic
dolphins; a sarus crane at
Karwar Lake Bird Sanctuary; a
nilgai at Valmiki National Park
BHIMBANDH SANCTUARY
Located in the southwest of Munger district,
its forests sprawl over 600 sq km, covering the
Kharagpur hill range. Amongst its rich flora
are sal, kend and semal trees and you can spot
tigers, leopards, sloth bears, nilgai, sambar,
bears and four-horned antelopes. In the
foothills lie several hot springs, including
Bhimbandh, Sita Kund and Rishi Kund. The
temperature of the water ranges between
52C to 65C.
KAIMUR SANCTUARY
The dense forests of the Kaimur Sanctuary
teem with blackbuck, nilgai, chinkara, tigers,
leopards, hyenas, wild boars, sloth bears and
over 70 species of birds. Spread over 1,342 sq
km in Kaimur district, the sanctuary is one of
the biggest in Bihar. Karkat Gadh nearby is
home to a crocodile sanctuary.
GAUTAM BUDDHA SANCTUARY
Sprawled across 259 sq km on either side of
the NH2, the sanctuarys forests are spread
across hilly and undulating tracts of terrain
which is an extension of the Chhotanagpur
plateau. The wildlife found here includes
tigers, leopards, hyenas, sloth bears, wolves,
wild dogs, wild boars, sambar, chital and
nilgai.
VIKRAMSHILA GANGETIC DOLPHIN
SANCTUARY
One of its kind in India, this sanctuary, spread
Kaimur Sanctuary
Reach It is 182 km from
Patna and 45 km from
Sasaram railway station.
Gautam Buddha
Sanctuary
Reach It is located 20 km
from Gaya and 60 km from
Bodhgaya. Gaya has an
international airport.
Vikramshila Gangetic
Dolphin Sanctuary
Reach Patna is 118 km
away. Bhagalpur is the
nearest railhead.
NAVIGATOR
70 MARCH 2013
over 50 km along the Ganga in Bhagalpur
district, is the only protected area for the
endangered Gangetic River Dolphin in
Asia. According to reports, its population
here grew from 175 to 223 in 2010. This
dolphin is one of the four freshwater dolphin
species in the world; the other three are found
in the Yangtze in China, the Indus in Pakistan
and the Amazon in South America. The
sanctuary also contains other threatened
aquatic wildlife, including the Indian smooth-
coated otter, the gharial and 135 species
of waterfowl.
GOGABIL BIRD SANCTUARY
Spread over 215 sq km, the Gogabil lake is
one of the largest wetlands in Bihar. Declared
a protected sanctuary by the state govern-
ment, its aquatic flora and fauna attract
nearly 300 migratory birds every monsoon
and winter from the Caspian Sea and the
Siberian region.
KANWAR LAKE BIRD SANCTUARY
Also known as Kabar Taal, it is Asias largest
freshwater oxbow lake (a U-shaped water
body) and is about three times the size of the
Bharatpur Sanctuary in Rajasthan. This lake is
formed by the meandering of the Burhi
Gandak river and supports about 59 kinds of
migratory birds and 106 residential species as
well as 31 species of fish. It is home to the
critically-endangered Oriental White-backed
Vulture and the Long-billed Vulture.
Gogabil Bird Sanctuary
Reach The nearest airport is
at Purnea, 60 km away, and
Katihar Junction is 25 km
away. Patna is about 300 km
by road.
Kanwar Lake Bird
Sanctuary
Reach The Patna airport is
156 km away and the
nearest railway station,
Begusarai, is 22 km away.
NAVIGATOR
MARCH 2013 71
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Manifesto
O P I N I O N S & O B S E R V A T I O N S
Ruskin Bond | Vikas Dilawari | Saransh Goila
Victoria Burrows | Arjun Majumdar | Abhishek Madhukar
O
U
sually, when the New Year comes around, I am
sitting by the stove, drying my socks and trying to
warm my frozen feet. Even if it hasnt snowed, a
temperature of 2o C means I have no intention
of stepping into a cold bathroom with the water already frozen
in the pipes. Needless to say, the scene outside is a wonder in
white. Things, however, went off a bit differently this year, and
I found myself barefoot on the sands of the beaches of Puri, or
relaxing under a ceiling fan in my
kacha-baniyan. Everyone around me
thought I was mad because, after all,
it was January and it was supposed to
be winter in Odisha. But for mea
man of the hillsit was summer.
For this luxury, I must say that
I am indebted to Dr. Achyuta Sa-
manta, who is the founder of KISS
AND KITT, and much else besides.
He had given me the freedom of his
guesthouses in Bhubaneswar and
Puri, and I was making the most of
his hospitality.
For those of you who are yet
to hear about KISS, it stands for
the Kalinga Institute of Social Sciences, and it is an institu-
tion that feeds, clothes and educates more than 20,000 tribal
children. Yes, I do mean twenty thousand tribal children. Almost
single-handedly, Dr. Samanta started this institute just over 10
years ago, with a tiny budget and a handful of children. Today,
thousands of children from different tribes come in from the
hinterland to make KISS their home. And by determination,
hard work and unfailing commitment, all their needs are taken
care of until they have cleared their high school exams and
become eligible for work or higher studies. It is a true story that
has been told before, but it cannot be overstated.
In fact, KISS is unique in many ways. The boys make ne
rugby football players, and two years ago their team won the
Under-14 Rugby World Cup in the UK. That is quite an amaz-
ing feat, given that it is not a native game and has to be learnt
from scratch. The fact that they have achieved so much in such
a short time is nothing short of remarkable.
At the same time, they do not give up their tribal culture
and are encouraged to hold on to their roots. At a New Years
dance festival, I was lucky enough to
witness at least 20 tribal dances, each
one subtly different from the other...
for no two tribes are alike.
And I will say this: If you want
to see dance, come to Odisha. Not
just tribal dancing, but various forms
of classical Odissi dance. Even the
children at KIIT International School
and the students at the University,
take part in wonderful displays of tra-
ditional dance. The movements are
graceful and the costumes elegant,
and you will have to remind yourself
that they are not professionals who
do this for a living.
Odisha has a wonderful coastline, with hundreds of kilome-
tres of unsupported beaches. Puri is just a two-hour drive from
Bhubaneswar, and during the holiday season it is packed with
visitors from Bengal. What Brighton is to a Londoner, Puri is to
a Kolkatan. In the evening, the main streetthe beach road
is thronged with Bengali families enjoying their annual outing,
and all wrapped up in mufers and woollens. I was still in my
shirt-sleeves, however, enjoying the sea breeze.
One of Indias most celebrated authors, Mr. Bond gives Discover India an
exclusive and fresh take on travel, culture, society and the hills.
WHAT BRIGHTON IS TO
A LONDONER, PURI IS
TO A KOLKATAN. IN THE
EVENING, THE MAIN
STREET IS THRONGED
WITH BENGALI
FAMILIES, WRAPPED
UP IN MUFFLERS
AND WOOLLENS.
THE RUSTIC
OBSERVER
RUSKI N BOND

74 MARCH 2013
L
ast year, in the high altitude meadows of Ali Bugyal
in Uttarakhand, a group of intrepid trekkers was
making its way to the next camp. As it popped
out of the tree line, the weather began to deterio-
ratebut not enough for the team to be concerned. The gentle
rumble of thunder just about hung in the air. As the trekkers
topped the ridge, a sudden streak of lightning snaked out and
struck one of the trekkers. No one even realised what hap-
pened. After the deafening sound
died, they looked around to nd one
of their mates on the ground, his
charred body still smoking. He was a
24-year-old software engineer.
Most of the trekker community
concluded that the poor fellow was
at faultthe lightning found the
nearest metal object and the trek-
ker was carrying a live cellphone, its
electronic circuits the easiest target.
An unspoken circular rang out in the
hills asking trekkers not to carry their
cellphones or metal objects in their
backpacks, not even steel-rimmed
glasses. Being composed mainly of
electrolytes, the human body is a better conductor of electricity
than a cellphone. And, up in the meadows, a group of trekkers
sticks out. Yet, most dont think a lightning hit is possible.
What should you do? First, if you get a hint of thunder even
in the far distance, beware. Lightning can strike you from two
kilometres away. The shelter of the forest is the best refuge if
caught in such a situation. The logic: Lightning cant nd you
in the cluster of trees. It strikes the tallest tree instead. If the
tree line is not in sight, then stop where you are, crouch to a
small ball, spread out so that theres 15-20 feet between trek-
kers, throw your backpack away and wait until the bad weather
passes. Dont think you can outrun the bad weather!
Last July, I received an anxious call to help nd a trekker
whod gone missing on the Mayali Pass trek. My heart sank
because I knew he would never be found... he was last seen
disappearing into the mist and two days had passed. On a trek
in Sikkim, I was briey separated from the rest. The mist
enveloped me and I remember feeling very romantic about the
setting. I continued and kept climbing, but always kept to the
trail. After about 30 minutes I real-
ised something was wrong. I should
have bumped into the others by then.
I called out into the mist but did not
get a reply. Sense struck and I de-
cided to wait until the mist cleared.
Thats when I found, to my horror,
that Id climbed 500 feet and my
mates were tiny dots below. A few
feet ahead of me was a sharp drop. In
the mist, stop, huddle together and
wait, because it is never stationary
and clears with a rise in temperature.
Cant see ahead? Stop trekking.
Recently, two mountaineering
enthusiasts and an instructor were
attempting a simple summit in Himachal. Over a large snow
eld, they decided to unhitch their rope, walk towards the base
of a cliff from where theyd again climb, roped up. They waved
at each other and moved forward, when a large blanket of cloud
rolled in. They lost sight of each other and when they reached
the end 20 minutes later, one of them was missing. They
looked everywhere, a helicopter was summoned, but he was
never found. The cloud and the mist had claimed another.
Arjun is the founder of Indiahikes, a blogger and an experienced trekker.
He takes a keen interest in training youngsters to appreciate our trails.
IN THE MIST,
EVERYTHING LOOKS
UNIFORM. THERE IS
NO ORIENTATION OF
HOW HIGH YOU ARE OR
YOUR LOCATION. YOUR
SENSE OF DIRECTION
IS SKEWED AND YOU
BECOME DISORIENTED.
THE TRAIL
ORGANISER
ARJ UN MAJ UMDAR
MARCH 2013 75
I
had a call a few days ago from the gentleman who runs
the local telephone exchange. We have developed a very
cordial relationship over the past two years, although we
didnt start on such positive terms. I rst came to meet
Mr. B. while getting an internet connection installed at home.
I dropped by at the telephone exchange armed with a suitcase
of photocopies of every document I could possibly need to
qualify for a Wi account, but still it was not enough. I also
had to provide photocopies of every
document my landlord had ever pos-
sessed, which the rather sour-faced
woman behind the desk informed
me of, one by one, meaning I had to
leave the ofce, pick up the docu-
ment, photocopy it, and deliver it to
the ofce a total of four times on the
same day. Throughout this process,
I managed to keep my face xed in a
rictus of pleasantness.
The mask dropped, however,
when one of the technicians nally
came to instal the modem. I hadnt
properly moved in yet, and when
I came to unlock my at, I noticed
one of the local street cats had done its business right outside
my door. Embarrassed, I gestured, saying, Please mind your
step. The technician, a tall man with hennaed hair oiled into a
severe side parting, half-smiled indulgently, as if to a child, and
pushed past me.
He then icked on all the light switches and rearranged my
furniture to best suit his seating requirements. He unwrapped
boxes and trimmed wiring, dropping litter all over my oor. He
then took a phone call outside, stepping on the cat diarrhoea on
the way back in. After a while he noticed he had stepped in it,
so started wiping the bottom of his shoe on my oor with great
determination. When he looked up and saw I was watching
him, he got up and wiped his shoe on my doorway.
I had to argue with him that I wanted to type in my own
password to keep my network private, and he set up my
internet in a way that requires me to type in a long series of
numbers every time I return my laptop home after using it
elsewhere. At the end of a very longeven though they were a
fewhours, he then asked me for a tip. I glanced down at the
streaks of cat excrement on my oor:
I dont think so, I said with a snarl.
When it came time to pay my rst
months bill, unexpected charges
led me into Mr. B.s ofce. I was
determined not to come across as
a pushy foreign maam, but only
partly succeeded... the days To Do
list never far from my thoughts. The
next month, I was more successful
and managed to indulge in some light
conversation. The following three
months saw the same rst-time de-
posit appear on my bill, resulting in
three more visits to Mr. B. By month
ve, we were on rst-name terms.
I now call Mr. B. on his mobile if my connection goes off
and he attends to it immediately, and every now and then,
Mr. B. calls me to check that I am still enjoying my stay in
India, and that my internet is working well. Just goes to show
that problems are often less about technology, administration or
where animals choose to defecate, and more about the human
personalities involved. But Indias people always nd a way to
make you smile... though initially it may not seem so.
Victoria writes for many magazines and newspapers all over the world.
She travels extensively and gives us an outside-in perspective.
THE EXPAT
DIARIES
VI CT ORI A BURROWS
CULTURE PROBLEMS
ARE OFTEN LESS
ABOUT TECHNOLOGY
AND OBSERVATION.
HUMAN PERSONALITIES
WILL ALWAYS LET YOU
FIND A WAY TO SMILE...
THOUGH INITIALLY IT
MAY NOT SEEM SO.
76 MARCH 2013
A
t the largest gathering in the world, I realised that
the key and operative word was melafair, and
not its prex, Kumbhthe pitcher, which has all
the mythological importance in the Hindu uni-
verse, containing amrit or the nectar of eternal life. As I began
to approach Allahabad from the Jhusi bridge overlooking the
temporary tented and colourful settlement, I saw neon tubes
in red, white, blue, green and yellow for miles along and the
unmissable blaring songs of devotion
and chants from every direction... all
of the sights and sounds spread over
around 60 square kilometres.
Millions of devotees arrive at
this gathering at the Sangamthe
conuence of the Ganga, Yamuna
and the mythical Saraswatito stake
their claim in their path to ultimate
happiness and peace. They sub-
merge themselves in waist-deep
owing water, as they attempt to get
access to the amrit spilled here. And
they wash their sins, either to earn
spiritual merits or to offer prayers as
simple acts of devotion.
The Mela is held during a very sacred period once every 12
years, the time it takes for the planet Jupiter to transverse the
whole zodiac. This is so much more signicant at this space-
time coordinate in the vicinity of Allahabad.
The gathering of an extraordinary number of devotees,
sadhus, fakirs and fakes is, in itself, an amazing phenomenon
a spectacle, if you would like to call it thatas a town with a
population of 1.3 million accommodates 30 million around its
periphery, on a single day. The fair usually continues between
the months of January and March.
Most of the pilgrims are quite realistic about washing off
sinsIve never met anyone claiming to look for phenomenal
changes. But that does not deter them from showing genuine
devotion or simple joy in bathing with their loved ones or shar-
ing meals offered for free, somewhat tempered like a spiritual
picnic. Or, at other times, a wild one, where they sit beside the
ash-smeared, knotted-haired, stark-naked Naga Sadhus to seek
blessings and gasp in long drags from marijuana chillums.
As a journalist, my attempt to be detached was largely suc-
cessful though I had no intention
of risking this once-in-a-lifetime
offer of redemption. As I nished
my assignment and packed up my
camera, it was a difcult decision.
But I strippedto my underwear
and of my last iota of doubton the
banks and headed into the brownish
grey owing water and decided this
would be a ceremonial bathing, to be
followed by a real one later.
As I submerged my head with a
promise of committing lesser evils
in the future, my body began to
adjust to the cold. The cheerfully
calm mood of the people celebrating
around me sank in. I realised that in the last few stressful days
(or was it decades?), lugging around heavy camera gear, these
few minutes that I had given to myselfletting myself go of
inhibitions and expectationswere indeed a rare occasion.
As I walked out of the river and began to put my clothes back
on, my steps rose unnaturally high, my knees buckled and I
thumped on the sandy banks. I was lighter and my body was
used to bear much more weight. Where had it gone?
Based in Dharamsala, Abhishek has written for many publications,
including The New York Times. He also works with the Dalai Lama.
THE PILGRIMS ARE
REALISTIC ABOUT
WASHING OFF THEIR
SINS, BUT YOU
GET A FEELING OF
BEING LIGHTER AND
CENTRED IN THE
MUDDY WATERS OF
THE RIVER OF PEOPLE.
THE GYPSY
CHRONICLES
ABHI SHE K MADHUKAR
MARCH 2013 77
F
ood is like love. It can be easy and if something
clicks, it stays. Like rajma and chawal. Or like
tomato and basil. Or like garlic and naan. If youre
willing to let go of your food inhibitions while
travelling, youll discover that the right kind of food will nd
you. There are many ways to uncover that perfect place to eat
in an unknown city, but the bestand realdeal lies with the
people of that city. Its always a much more interesting way of
locating eateries. Talking to locals (or
friends whove visited that city) will
give you a well of information... peo-
ple are more open to sharing insights
when it comes to food. This is true
everywhere on Earth, but especially
true of enchanting Ladakh.
You somehow know in your heart
that your journey to Ladakh is going
to be one of the most challenging,
not only from a travellers perspec-
tive but a food-lovers. And if you are
a foodie, youll always nd another
foodie. En route to Ladakh, I met
a moving-kitchen entrepreneur
whod wait every day for passersby
to get stuck in a jam at Rohtang pass. His menu? Matra-kulcha
and bhel-puri. He would sell at least 100 plates a day and has
served food to people from at least 100 countries.
I asked how business was, and all he said was, Sahib, Ive
served more people than some hotels and thank God every
day for this opportunity. He quickly dished out three kinds
of chaat and I tried some. They were not only nger-lickingly
delicious, but it was astonishing to see him serve some seven
Australians the same chaat with a dozen chillis in it. So, all the
people whod told me that he had a certain kind of magic in the
way he runs his moving kitchen were right.
Another thing Ive learnt to keep in mind and to try to
decode is the vegetation of a particular area, its natural environ-
ment and its socio-economic background. All of these play a
big role in the food the locals eat. And, before you actually
reach Leh, you will go through at least three meals and theyre
not very easy to nd. Someone said to me, If youre going
to Leh or Ladakh, Maggi is the one thing you cant avoid.
They hit the nail on the head. You soon realise that it is either
Maggi or eggs or some weird form
of egg-noodles that youll probably
get to eat. In Leh, however, a simple
bowl of Maggi is not just the generic
noodle brand. The weather, the
water, the spices and that particular
position on Earth make it something
special. So, in a desperate search for
food, shivering under the two sweat-
ers I was wearing, it was a pleasure
to meet a guy who runs a tea shack
called Maggie Point. Apart from
the regular variations, he cooks a very
interesting version of Maggi that has
yellow dal in it, with extra spices. It is
wholesome and lling, and also gives
you that much needed warmth on a chilly morning.
If youre a food traveller, you should also try to ask for the
basic recipes, the method of cooking and the spices that are
normally used. A few omnipresent Ladakhi dishes like thukpa,
gud-gud chai (butter tea) and thenthuk (handmade noodle soup)
are prime examples of how the geography dictates the taste.
And people are full of their thukpa stories and grandma recipes,
which are as delicious as the dish itself.
Saransh, the famous chef, has travelled the country for his Food Food
channel show Roti Rasta Aur India. He says his journey has just begun.
OF THE MANY WAYS
TO FIND A PERFECT
PLACE TO EAT IN
AN UNKNOWN CITY,
THE REAL DEAL LIES
WITH THE LOCALS.
THEY TEND TO KNOW
THE SPICES AND THE
SPECIALITIES WELL.
THE GASTRO
NOTEBOOK
SARANSH GOI L A
78 MARCH 2013
80 MARCH 2013
E
very city has a story to tell and architecture is that
living book. The younger cities will have less to
talk about, but the older cities have so many tales
that it is often impossible to decipher them. One
has to have an eye to see these stories and we, as conserva-
tion architects, try to screen the political history and relate it
to architecture, the period evident from use of materials and
technology. Its interesting to note how each new dynasty tries
to build a new area from scratch
materials and ideas from an earlier
dynasty may have been reusedso
that it can leave its own imprint.
Thats the reason modern Delhi
has 11 capitals in itright from the
Mahabharata period, followed by Lal
Kot, Mehrauli (circa 12th century),
followed by Siri (circa 1303), and
then followed by Tughlaqabad,
Jahanpanah, Ferozabad, Dinpanah,
Lodhi Complex and Shahjahanabad,
to, nally, New Delhi.
India is one of those countries
where, in a few square kilometres,
you have two millennia of history
that lies within architecture. Take the walled city of Junagadh
in Saurashtra, for instance. You have archaeologically signicant
Ashoka edicts, followed by the Navkhan kuva, Adi Chadi Wav,
Buddhist caves. These were followed by the medieval period
Uppar Kot (the rst citadel) , the growth of the modern town
and several religious institutions that eventually led to the Dar-
bar Hall of the Babi dynasty. Very few cities in the world have a
complete time period of history in so small a radius.
It is interesting how, through architecture, we can also
conjecture the political history. Let me give you an example:
When we see rock-cut architectures, we deduce that it would
have been accomplished through patronage and, therefore, it
would have been a peaceful period. Or caves can shed light on
Buddhist or Brahminical religious roots. When it comes to forts,
they can indicate that when they were constructed, it would
have been a period of war and defence was the need of the
hour. The grand public buildings of the 19th century reect the
colonial inuences that start from town planning, vistas, gates,
clock towers in squares and so on.
Very often, ancient cities were
endorsed or patronised by differ-
ent religions. Mathura, for instance,
is predominantly associated with
Hinduism and this is evident from its
temples, but its early sculptures indi-
cate how Buddhism was popular too.
A few archaeological nds also prove
it was an important Jainism site.
Every dynasty leaves its own traces.
Masonry construction, in the earli-
est days, was one stone placed over
the other, without mortar (the He-
madpanthi style). With the invention
of mortar, walls could be constructed
with rubble. Later still, if nishing
was important, a rough wall would be dressed with another
stone, thereby forming composite masonry. The Mughals
would dress their walls with stone, followed with marble as
relief. Then came the Taj Mahal, constructed completely in
marble, a statement that the Mughal rule was at its peak.
It is these layers that make a country so fascinating. If
youre a regular traveller, youd have developed an eye subcon-
sciously. And theres no end to the stories.
Vikas is the principal of Vikas Dilawari Conservation Architects and
contributes regularly to many publications. Hes inspired by our rich past.
INDIA IS A COUNTRY
WHERE, IN A FEW
SQUARE KILOMETRES,
YOU HAVE TWO
MILLENNIA OF
HISTORY THAT LIES
WITHIN ITS RUINS
AND STILL-SURVIVING
MONUMENTS.
THE BUILD
JOURNAL
VI KAS DI L AWARI
Automobiles, Films, Music, Apps & Travel Gear
Grooming For The Evolved Traveller
Chest
M A K E T H E M O S T O F T H A T J O U R N E Y
With only 10 pieces available
worldwide, this watch is easily
the most coveted. The HM3
Poison Dart Frog with its 18
carat gold screws and other
high-end frills can keep
onlookers eyes wide and mouth
open for the longest time.
Price `56,57,600
O
Keep busy, stay entertained, have fun and be safe with these amazing
gizmos when you are travelling.
TRAVEL ENTERTAINERS
TRAVEL
MATES
IN 2013
82 MARCH 2013
KAKKOII WOWSPEAKER
This speaker produces 85 db of
good sound quality and can be
connected via Bluetooth to any
device within 33 ft. The battery
comes with a built-in recharger
and can last up to four hours.
kakkoii-me.com, `4,600
OLYMPUS E-PL5
This camera flaunts 16.1 mega-
pixel resolution and the highly
regarded image processor, Om-D.
It also comes with a tiltable
touchscreen and an incredibly
quick focusing speed.
olympus-imaging.co.in, `53,000
SOLARPOD 240
Weighing all of 4.5 kg, the SolarPod
240 is a portable solar power
generator. So, the next time you are
stuck camping or out of power
during a thunderstorm, the SolarPod
240 will keep your devices and you
connected with the outside world.
thousandsuns.com, `41,800
SONY WALKMAN W262
This 2GB MP3 player is
wireless and has a battery that
lasts eight hours. A three-
minute Quick Charge gets you
60 minutes playback. It comes
with headphones and is water-
resistant up to 6.6 feet.
sony.co.in, `5,500
DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY
SOUND CYLINDER
Always wanted a better movie
experience when travelling? A
portable speaker for tablets, the
Definitive Technology Sound
Cylinder can be easily connected
to most Bluetooth devices.
definitivetech.com, `11,000
T
The 2013 Audi Q5 Quattro is built for that
adventurous road trip through the mountains. It
is sturdier than its predecessor, has a more
refined design and a better-equipped cabin.
The fuel economy is up by 15 percentfor both
the diesel and petrol engines. The restyled
xenon-plus headlights, a new strip of LED
lights and a single-frame chrome grille enhance
its looks. The 3.0 TDI Quattro S Tronic variant
has a 2,967-cc turbo-charged V-6 engine
producing 245 hp and 580 Nm of torque at 3,250
rpm. The Q5 has a permanent all-wheel drive
with self-locking centre, electronic stabilisation
control, and an advanced driver-assistance
system, including a hill descent assist button to
ensure it comes down a slope at 4-30 kmph.
Tweaked looks, pumped-up engine. The 2013 Audi Q5 Quattro packs it in.
KING OF THE MOUNTAINS
K
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TRAVEL
WISE
IN 2013
SUNNTO ELEMENTUM
TERRA
Water-resistant to 100 m, it
also displays barometric
pressure and altitude. The
compass is a plus point.
`48,000 onwards
CALIBRE DE CARTIER
Powered by a new automatic
movement, the 1904-PS MC
features shock resistance and
durability. Available at Ethos
Summit stores.
Price on request
F
FASTRACK, 3072SLO4
For the funky traveller on a
budget, Fastrack offers this
sporty leather chronograph.
And you dont have to squint
to tell the time.
`4,000
BREITLING
TRANSOCEAN
Made of stainless steel
and sapphire crystal, it
features a disk showing
24 time zones.
`6, 02,270
POLAR HEART RATE
MONITOR
A perfect coach-on-a-
wrist for the gym-goer,
these watches make
excellent travelmates.
`5,500 onwards
M 84 MARCH 2013
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t
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l
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h
w
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s
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o
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FASTRACK, 6068SL01
It pairs well with everything
from denim shorts to linen
shirts and is inspired by the
view scope barrel of a sniper
rifle, replete with a cross-hair
mark on the glass.
`1,295
MASTER COMPRESSOR
DIVING LADY GMT JAEGER
LECOULTRE
The automatic watch features
a unidirectional rotating bezel
and JaegerLecoultre Calibre
917D movement
`5,50,000
TIMEX T49826 EXPEDITION
SERIES
For rookie travellers, this
watch is a relief in comparison
to its tech-driven compatriots.
It also has lap and split timing.
`4,795
PATRAVI T- 24, CARL F
BUCHERER
Water-resistant to 50 m,
it has 42 hours of power
reserve, a second time
zone, a stainless steel
case and 48 diamonds.
`6,00,000
BABY G 169R-4
For those who cant do
without a touch of pink,
this shock-resistant Baby
G has water resistance
of 200 m, a 25 pg
databank, and a display
of 29 time zones.
`4,000 approximately F
MARCH 2013 85
The Phoenix
Of Gotham
After the events that
taint him in The Dark
Knight, Batman comes
back with a vengeance
in the epic conclusion of
this trilogy, The Dark
Knight Rises. With a
stronger, more evil and
avenging enemy in Bane,
Gotham Citys ultimate
saviour fights his way
through the obstacles
and comes to his
peoples rescue. Added
to that is the character
of Catwoman, played by
Anne Hathaway, who
has an interesting and
unexpectedly important
part in the story. Well,
thats not all as there
are loads of twists and
turns! Action-packed,
incorporating high drama
and a brilliant
screenplay, Christopher
Nolan has handled this
one with finesse and
style. One can easily
rate it as the best of the
series. A must-watch!
B
PAGE-TURNER
Romantic Saga Of Youth
T
his is an interesting
story of Pakistani
youth and its endeavour
to strike a balance
between family traditions
and personal fulfilment.
How It Happened takes
us to a traditional
Bandian household
where Dadi, the
matriarch, has her set of
rules, especially
regarding how her
grandchildren should
find their life partners.
Though love does not
figure anywhere, she
feels that these rules
have served well those
who have followed
them, even if blindly.
The 15-year-old
Saleha narrates a
humorous tale of her
elder sibling, Zebas love
marriage to Haroon amid
a tumultous family
drama. Zebas love for
the Sunni boy raises a
storm in this Shia
household. But Dadi is
one of those tough on
the outside but soft on
the inside characters
and she relents for the
sake of her
granddaughters
happiness.
The story deals with
a number of issues such
as the societal divide,
the generation gap and
the burden of family
tradition falling mainly
on girls, but in an
entertaining way. But
alls well that ends well,
and Shazaf Fatima
Haiders novel
showcases that
effortlessly. The
characters are witty and
likeable and there are
moments that make you
chuckle.
It makes pleasant
reading for those who
like romantic comedies
and happy family
dramas.
TRAVEL
WISE
IN 2013
TRAVEL TALKIES
HOW IT HAPPENED
Author Shazaf Fatima Haider
Publisher Penguin
Books India
311 pages `399
M 86 MARCH 2013
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J
Heart Attack by
Demi Lovato
Album Heart Attack
When I Was Your
Man by Bruno Mars
Album Unorthodox
Jukebox
I Knew You Were
Trouble by Taylor Swift
Album Red
Radioactive by
Imagine Dragons
Album Night Visions
Feel This Moment
(feat. Christina Aguilera)
by Pitbull
Album Global Warming
Daylight by Maroon 5
Album Overexposed
I Will Wait by
Mumford & Sons
Album Babel
Thrift Shop (feat.
Wanz) by Macklemore &
Ryan Lewis
Album The Heist
Dont You Worry by
Swedish House Mafia
Album Until Now
(Deluxe Version)
It's a Beautiful Day
by Michael Bubl
Album To Be Loved
Titanium (feat. Sia)
by David Guetta
Album Nothing But The
Beat
TOP
DOWNLOADS
Battery Widget Pro: Android
phones are often a pain when it
comes to battery life, especially if
you are constantly on the go. Battery
Widget tells you how much juice is
left and how long it will last. It will
give various notifications, battery
history and will also help the user
tweak the settings of the phone to
improve the battery life.
Available on Android for `109.
Moves: If you are health-conscious,
you will appreciate the ability to
keep a tab on how much you move
around and where. Moves on the
iPhone keeps track of your
movements and can also post the
stats on social networks.
Available on iOS for free.
Haze: When travelling, it is prudent
to keep a tab on the weather in the
area where you are. There are many
weather apps for the iPhone, but
Haze is the newest and coolest. It
has a simple yet beautiful user
interface that gives details via a
swipe and it
automatically creates
themes on the basis of
the weather.
Available on iPhone
for `55.
Vine: If you use Twitter a lot and
you like little .Gifs that deliver six-
second snapshots, then the Vine app
is a must-have. Of course, Vine is
owned by Twitter and you can think
of it as
Instagram for video. So it produces
small, snackable videos that are
addictive and share-worthy.
Available on Android and iOS
for free.
MARCH 2013 87
My Head
Is An
Animal by
Of
Monsters
and Men
Genre Alternative Folk
My Head Is An Animal is
the debut studio album
by the Icelandic
alternative folk band Of
Monsters and Men. It
has some amazing
singles that were in the
charts of the top songs
for almost the entire
year in 2012.
Megalithic Symphony by
Awolnation
Genre Electronic Rock
This debut
album by
American
electronic
rock band
Awolnation has been
flying high since the
time it was released in
2011. Some of the
singles had shot up the
Billboards Hot 100 list in
no time.
TRAVEL
TUNES
Favourite
destination In India,
it is Kerala, my
home state.
Why?
Kerala offers
everything and it
transports you to a
different world.
What not to miss?
A boat ride on the
backwaters in
Alleppey.
Best eating joints?
Tandoor and Chillies
restaurants in
Ernakulam. Opposite
is Bhima Silver that
sells jewellery. And
Bharath Tourist,
Ernakulam, for
South Indian cuisine.
PREETI SHENOY is an artist, author and blogger who started
her writing career with contributions in various publications but
also came up with a novel from time to time. Her latest release
is Secret Wishlist.
Tuesdays with
Morrie by Mitch
Albom
With its brilliant
writing, it is
emotion-charged
and powerful,
and alters ones
view of life.
The Time
Traveller's Wife
by Audrey
Niffenegger
I dont usually
like sci-fi but this
timeless love
story had me
captivated.
Collected
Stories of Roald
Dahl
Dahl is the
greatest
storyteller that
ever lived and I
admire how he
weaves his tales.
I will not die
an unlived life by
Dawna Markova
With its poetic
writing and deep
lessons, it made
an impression on
me that will last
my whole life.
The Curious
Incident of The
Dog in The Night
Time by Mark
Haddon
I loved the
simplicity and
realism of this
story of autism.
AUTHORSPEAK
APPS MANIA
We bring you the top four apps to have while travelling
MAGIC AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
Winner CSR Category: GAIL, Mr. B.C. Tripathi,
CMD, GAIL receiving the award
Winner Impact Creator-Civil Servant
Category: Anuradha Gupta
Winner Impact Creator-Civil
Servant Category:
Dr. Gurdial Singh Sandhu
Winner Transport Category: RITES, Mr.
Rajeev Mehrotra, CMD receiving the award
Winner - Lifetime Achievement Award: Mr. R.S. Butola, Chairman, IOCL
Mr. Ramesh Chandra Agarwal,
Chairman, Dainik Bhaskar Group
Winner Social Change Agent Category:
Phoolbasan Yadav receiving the award
Winner Heavy Industries
Category: BHEL, Mr. B.P. Rao,
CMD, BHEL receiving the award
Winner Metals, Minerals & Trade
Category: NMDC, Mr. C.S. Verma,
CMD, NMDC receiving the award
Winner Oil & Gas Category: ONGC, Mr. Sudhir
Vasudeva, CMD, ONGC receiving the award
Mr. Jyoti Narain, ED, Wital See & Mr. Kunwer Sachdev, MD &
CEO, Su-Kam with Chairman, Dainik Bhaskar Group
The Winners - India Pride Awards 2012-13
A view of the gathering
Members of the eminent Jury with Chief Guest
Chief Guest: Dr. M. Veerappa Moily,
Hon'ble Union Minister of Petroleum &
Natural Gas
Dainik Bhaskar India Pride Awards, now in its 4th year recognizes excellence in
Public Sector Undertakings, Social Change Agents and Impact Creator-Civil Servants
JANUARY 2013 - DISCOVER INDIA 000
Circumnavigate
Marine Wonders Of Australias
Great Barrier Reef
T H E W O R L D , F R O M T H E I N D I A N E Y E
O
90 MARCH 2013
MARINE
MARVEL
IN 2013
Garden Of Coral
Fantastic views and its sheer size apart, the Great Barrier Reef gives
you a glimpse of the rich and colourful underwater world.
Words PREETI VERMA LAL
Q
MARCH 2013 91 Q
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92 MARCH 2013
C
atch a breath, and start
counting the football
fields, he said. The
chopper had barely
risen five metres from
the pontoon above the
Great Barrier Reef when pilot Darian
Promnitzs repartee had me foxed. I was
hovering above the worlds largest coral
reef, which astronauts have said they
can see from the moon, but I could see
no football fields. Not even watery
ones! So why was the helicopter pilot
talking football? Silly me. If only Id
done my homework. The Great Barrier
Reef, comprising nearly 2,900 reefs, 600
rocky continental islands and 300
coral cays, spreads over 35 million
hectares. And that translates to 70
million football fields!
I had hopped into a catamaran and
sailed 83 nautical miles from the tony
town of Port Douglas to see one of the
seven natural wonders of the world.
From 1,500 ft in the Australian sky, the
islands and the Reef look like squiggles
carelessly daubed by a neophyte painter;
the blue ranging from cobalt to turquoise
to cyan to azure to duck egg. Strapped
next to the pilot, I peered hard to see the
1,500 types of fish, 4,000 types of snails
and clams and 350 varieties of
nudibranches that have made the Reef
their home. I peered harder. All I could
see were giant waves tumbling
vehemently against the corals I was a
tad disappointed.
But, beyond the disappointment lay a
smile. I knew sergeant majors were
waiting for me by the semi-submersible
boat. All I had to do was walk down a
few steps and I knew Id find the majors
behind the glass pane. And there they
were. Hundreds of sergeant majors (fish,
not dapper armymen) gambolling amidst
the corals that the Reef is so famous for.
There were other fish tooyellow
butterfly fish, the elusive black cardinal,
Reach Port Douglas is a 60-minute
drive from Cairns International
Airport. The Great Barrier Reef is a
90-minute boat ride from Port
Douglas.
Stay Peppers Beach Club & Resort,
Court House, Central Hotel, QT.
Where To Eat Salsa Bar & Grill,
Nautilus, Harrisons, Zinc, Beach
Shack.
NAVIGATOR
Q
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MARCH 2013 93
From above, the
islands and the
Reef look like
squiggles
carelessly daubed
by a neophyte
painter
MARCH 2013 95
clown fish (remember Nemo?), the
plodding groupers, the coral trout
thousands of them living happily amid
400 kinds of corals that can be found in
the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage
Area. And as for the corals, their shapes
range from staghorns to tabletop,
cabbage, fans et al.
Everything looked so stunning, so
beautiful and I wanted to
get up close with the
majors and the surgeons
(another fish!). Go
snorkelling. The blue
warm water looked
tempting but I could not
just jump off. I would
have to wriggle into a
wet-suit, wear fins on my
feet, strap on the mask
and adjust the snorkel. Or
I could go scuba diving with nearly 20
kg of equipment, including air tanks,
and swim with the anemones and shoals
of fish several metres beneath the
waters surface.
In the Great Barrier Reef, however, I
felt rather greedy. Could I pick a pearl
out of the oceans womb? I am no
Japanese pearl diver who can free dive
without oxygen cylinders.
They can hold their breaths
for six minutes. Six minutes?
My best is 30 seconds! I
cannot even dive too deep. I
stood by the jetty looking at
the corals lying languorously
in the ocean. Without the
corals, the Reef would die.
Diving could wait for
another day. I wanted to
plant a coral garden.
(Clockwise from top) A
snorkeller surrounded
by fishes at the Great
Barrier Reef; a fish at
the Great Barrier Reef;
an aerial view of the
Reef; a surgeonfish;
marine plants; a sweet
lips fish; a scuba diver
feeding a giant potato
cod; a giant clam
What To Do
Book a Great Barrier Reef
day trip with Quicksilver
(quicksilver-cruises.com).
The AUD 218 per person
cost includes boat ride,
snorkelling, lunch, entry to
the underwater
observatory, semi-
submersible fish/coral
viewing trip. Book a
helicopter ride for $148.
NAVIGATOR
Departure
B A C K T O F R O N T
They say that if you want to see every landscape on Earth,
you should go to Ladakh. And they couldnt be more right.
This is one of Indias most-visited tourist stops, loved equally
by foreigners and nationals... and, of late, by advertising
agencies who shoot many a commercial there. Discover India has
visited this paradise on too many occasions to list, but that
hasnt stopped us from finding something new each time. In
1988, the place was a revelation of sorts, because it was
untamed, largely unvisited and, fortunately for the place itself,
ignored by the throngs of people that hovered around it. The
Ladakh of today is very different. Tourist traffic is very high,
but it is a relief that the place is as scenic as it used to be. Sure,
youre likely to rub shoulders with people now, but it is still a
dazzling display of all that Nature has to offer. From deserts to
lush valleys, Ladakh holds you in a trance-like state, even with
the oxygen that some people need. The locals remaineven
after 25 years and recent hardshipsas friendly as ever. We
dont know about you, but we cant wait to go back.
In March 1988, Ladakh was still a mystery.
SURREAL SURPRISE
96 MARCH 2013
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Follow us on:
Karnataka, South India
Bijapur
Bangalore
Belgaum Hubli
Nearest Airports:
Nearest Railway Station:
Bijapur
Nearest Highway:
NH-16
Visit the Gol Gumbaz.
We almost whispered that.
No secret can ever remain safe inside the Gol Gumbaz,
as every little whisper can be echoed over ten times
in the amazing Whispering Gallery. Crowned by the
worlds second largest dome, unsupported by pillars
is the tomb of Muhammed Adil Shah, the then Sultan
of Bijapur. Apart from every little word uttered,
this majestic 15th century structure also echoes the
impressive style of the Deccan architecture.
Visit us at ITB, Stall No. 241, Hall No. 52B