T R AV E L

Four of the best Ayurvedic retreats in Kerala, by Francesca Syz

Email travel.magazine@telegraph.co.uk KALARI KOVALIKAM PALAKKAD Ayurveda holds that illness is caused by a loss of balance in mind and body, which can be restored through toxin-eliminating treatments, diet, yoga, meditation and massage. During the rainy season (now until October), the medicinal properties of the plants used in ayurveda are intensied, and its cooler temperatures better suit those coming from climates such as ours. Rather than using up energy ghting dehydration, the body can focus entirely on eliminating toxins. The most serious place for ayurveda in Kerala is Kalari Kovalikam, a restored 19th-century palace (now part spa, part ayurvedic hospital, part ashram) in the foothills of the Annamalai mountain range, combining luxury and ashram-like austerity, with a no meat, leather footwear or alcohol policy. There are 18 suites, with fourposter beds and hand-painted frescoes (no TVs), and food is made from simple, naturally avoursome local vegetables. Choose from 14- to 28-day programmes in anti-ageing, anti-stress, slimming and general rejuvenation plus hatha yoga and training in kalaripayattu, one of the worlds oldest martial arts traditions. The details Singles from 5,000 for 14 days, doubles from 7,450 (00 91 4843 011711; cghearth.com/kalari/). AMRUTHAM AYURVEDIC VILLAGE RESORT KOVALAM For a friendly, affordable retreat that carries out the above ideals in a serious but less intimidating way, Amrutham, situated in a simple farming village a mile inland from Kovalam Beach, is perfect. It is run by two friends, locally born Ajith Nr and Londoner Sarah Cohen, and a very nice team of local staff. Within pretty, hibiscus-lled gardens you will nd a clean, spacious guesthouse built in a traditional Keralan style, palm-thatched treatment huts, a secluded outdoor yoga sala, a lovely large pool and an ayurvedic vegetarian restaurant where you can also learn to cook. The beauty of this place is that it works equally well for those looking for complete immersion in ayurveda and for those wanting to come and relax in the beautiful surroundings, try some individual treatments and to recharge. The serious programmes last one to three weeks and include daily morning hatha yoga (including yoga philosophy) and guided meditation. The details Singles from 35, doubles from 49; one-week ayurvedic programmes including daily yoga, excluding accommodation, from 228 per person (00 91 9447 856461; stjcohen@hotmail.com; amruthamgamaya.com). NEELESHWAR HERMITAGE BEKAL Set in a shady palm grove by a peaceful, safe beach, Neeleshwar Hermitage in northern Kerala is a small spa hotel with a strong leaning towards ayurveda. Accommodation is in 16 pretty thatched cottages with polished teak oors and cosy contemporary furnishings, each with its own private courtyard garden. The hotels Priya Spa provides an energising atmosphere of silence and tranquillity, with eight treatment rooms arranged around a central courtyard. Alongside traditional ayurveda, delivered in collaboration with the Sahayadri Foundation, the most respected organic and herbal medicine manufacturer in India, the spa offers an impressive range of naturopathic and more conventional soothing and energising spa treatments, such as the utterly revivifying Jet Lag Reviver full-body massage. When not having treatments or enjoying a yoga session, you can go for long walks, explore villages and temples, attend cooking classes, meditation sessions and lectures on the local culture. Head to the restaurant for excellent Keralan dishes, particularly seafood. The details Deluxe garden-view cottages from 120 plus 15 per cent tax for one, 145 for two in low season (00 91 1244 010072; neeleshwarhermitage.com). AYURVEDA OCEAN VILLAGE One of the many great things about Kerala is that, unlike Goa, it is malaria-free. So you can bring your children without worrying constantly. While it doesnt have specic facilities for children, Ayurveda Ocean Village works for any combination of guests including families, and with a large innity pool and a sheltered beach (with lifeguards) a few feet away, there is plenty to keep everyone happy. Set within lovingly tended gardens on a hillside overlooking the sea, accommodation is in individual round cottages decorated with local antiques and textiles, each with its own garden area, and a delicious, fresh, mostly organic buffet appears at meal times. Combine ayurveda packages with sunrise sivananda yoga (incorporating meditation) overlooking the beach and evenings enjoying live sitar and tabla performances or watching Kathakali dancing, unique to Kerala. There are temples within walking distance, shops a ve-minute walk away, a simple village a 10-minute tuk-tuk away and the resort is also only 20 minutes away from bustling Kovalam. The details From about 700 per week in low season (0844-888 5050; nealsyardagency.com). Next week: holidays for under-ves