Composition in Photography

Three Rules of Composition

When beginning to look at photography you need first to consider basic photographic composition. Without considering your composition you are simply taking a snap-shot. In this class, we will look at three main guidelines for composition. They are:

Leading Lines The Rule of Thirds Framing

Leading Lines
A leading line enters the frame in the foreground and then draws the eye into the distance. A leading line originates near the camera and often creates a diagonal line creating an illusion of depth. A leading line may be "literal" - an actual line such as the edge of a railroad track or top of fence, or it may be implied - a row of objects that creates the illusion of a line by decreasing in size. A leading line creates a strong sense of perspective particularly when photographed in maximum depth of field. If successful, a leading line will draw the viewers eye directly into your photograph, therefore placing them in the actual scene.

You can use diagonals as leading lines to provide a way into the picture. It's a simple and easy path for the eye to follow to the main subject.

The Rule of Thirds

This is a result of dividing the picture frame into thirds vertically and horizontally. When shooting, place the subject on a line or an intersection of lines. This will set the subject offcentre and create a "visual direction" to the photograph.

Before you take your picture, imagine the image area divided into thirds both horizontally and vertically. The intersections of these imaginary lines suggest four options for placing the centre of interest for good composition. The option you select depends upon the subject and how you would like that subject to be presented.

 Generally, pictures with subjects directly in the centre tend to be more static and less interesting than pictures with off-centre subject placement.

The upper-right position seems better for this subject as it allows you to see the full shadow and the tracks that lead to the seagull, without leaving dead space on the other side of the seagull.

Here is another example in a landscape. Notice the tree is lined up with the first vertical third line and the tree trunk and tree top meet on an intersection.

You can apply the rule of thirds to a portrait by having the subject look to one side and then shifting the camera angle so that there is more space on the side into which the subject is looking (this is called looking room). In this example you can see the grid lines and the intersection point showing where the main subject is. By putting the focal point in the upper left of the frame, the eye is drawn there first and then down to the baby.

Looking Room
You should always consider the looking path of a subject and leave space in front of them into which they can look or move. If you dont, you make the subject feel cramped and uncomfortable to look at (this is a good effect to use if you want the your audience to feel uncomfortable).

You can also apply the Rule of Thirds guidelines to the placement of the horizon in your photos. Here the centre position of the boat and horizon results in a static feeling.

See the difference if we move the horizon to the upper third and the sailboat to the left. Remember, these are the only guidelines, so if you don't like this subject placement, try another.

Here weve moved the horizon line to the lower third. In general, place the horizon high or low in your scenic shots, but rarely in the middle. Though, the best composition choice will always depend on what feels right to the photographer at the time.

Give the object somewhere to go

Framing
Though technically the person in this subject is framed by the picture frame, this is not what is meant by framing.

Framing
Framing is a technique used to give a picture extra depth and character. Luckily it doesnt mean that you need to carry a picture frame around with you wherever you go. Framing uses naturally occurring objects in the foreground to frame your centre of interest (your main subject).

Youll be amazed with the abundance of natural frames out there. These can include windows, doorways, architecture or even plants and trees. The possibilities are endless. It only takes a bit of imagination and experimentation to turn a normal snapshot into a work of art. Ideally the frame should relate to the theme of the picture; for example an architecture scene can be framed using windows or walls. Framing can also be quite useful in hiding undesirable foregrounds and backgrounds.

This image illustrates the effective use of framing. A normal window frame in the foreground is used to frame the main section in the background to great effect. It immediately adds depth and interest to what could otherwise have been a bland shot of old ruins.

In another example, tree branches that fall around the edges of a picture can form a nice natural framing device. This can give a picture the feeling of depth it needs to make it more than just snapshot of a boat.

The monument on the left is composed in the centre without a frame. The picture on the right has a stronger feeling of depth and tells a more complete story because the photographer chose an appropriate foreground to complement the monument.

The horses and their riders add considerable foreground interest to this scene. The overhanging tree branches complete the frame and add depth to the subject.

Two other ways to create a good composition are:

Simplicity Avoiding mergers

Simplicity
Look for ways to give the centre of interest in your pictures the most visual attention. One way is to select uncomplicated backgrounds that will not steal attention from your subjects.

What is this a photo of?

A bridge? A Telephone? A Plant or Cactus? The Sky?

This photo can be improved by looking for visual simplicity. First you must decide which object is your centre of interest. Here, we chose the cactus. By moving in closer and using the plain sky as the background, we have simplified and improved the composition of this photograph.

Note however, that if you are shooting a documentary style and your intention is to show the fact that a telephone was placed on a bridge in a desert then the original shot is still valid in its composition

The busy background on the left camouflages the seagull. By sightly changing the point of view, the seagull on the right stands with visual prominence against the blue sky.

Mergers
A Merger occurs when two objects intersect to cause focus to be taken away from your intended subject

The merger of a tree with this groovy guys head is obvious enough to make you think the photographer would have noticed it before taking the photo.
Remember: we see things in three dimensions, so it's easier than you might think to focus our eyes on the main subject and not notice the background at all.

It was quite simple to use a better background to allow the viewer to focus on that lovely brown jacket.

Seriously though, try hard to be aware of your background when taking your shots.

Near mergers may not be quite as objectionable, but they can steal attention from your centre of interest. Near mergers are objects or lines that are just too close to the principal subject. In this case the ball and umbrella tip are near mergers.

Angles Different Perspectives

Give more interest or impact to a photo by changing up the way its usually viewed. (Normal Eye Level) Worms Eye Birds Eye

Worms Eye View

What is a Worms Eye view?

A worms eye view is an angle where you are looking up!or what a worm would see! Make the photo more interesting to viewgive it a new perspective. Can make things appear out of proportion or larger than life.

Worms eye examples

 Change your Position and Viewpoint

Birds Eye view

What is Birds Eye view?

An angle where you are looking down on something as a bird would see. An arial view Can make things appear smaller than life.

Birds Eye View examples

Shot Sizes
Extreme Close Up

Close Up

Medium Close up

 Mid Shot

Wide Shot

Very Wide Shot

 Extreme Wide Shot

Macro

Macro

Candid Photo
An action photo (un-posed) that tells a story or captures a moment. With the exception of group pictures or individual mug shots, yearbook photos are candid photos. Most spreads have at least five to seven candid photos with one of them being larger than the rest. This is called a dominant photo.

Candid Photos
Candid Not Candid

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/blog/wp-content/candid-4.jpg

http://www.orgradphoto.com/images/frat-candid-1.jpg

Left to Right

Remember, these are the basic rules of photography. If you follow these simple guidelines, you will achieve composition that is pleasing to the eye. But, once you master the rules, then you can break them!

Light
It is ALL about Light! Eye is much more sensitive than cameras!
Adapts to contrast variations Adapts to light level variations

Must understand that film/digital cameras dont adapt as well Light comes in Flavors:
Hard Light Soft Light Reflection/Mist/Haze

Magic Hours
Photographers consider Magic Hours to be:
First 2 hours after sunrise Last 2 hours before sunset

Soft, textured, rich light Best times of day to shoot Noontime for water colors, but not for people

 Soft Light

 Hard Light

Flash
Get Close Enough! Use it to Fill in, EVEN in Daylight!

Law of Squares!

 Daylight Flash

No Flash,

light behind subject

Fill flash saves

this picture

Sharpness
Especially important with Digitals Hold arms in against body Natural posture, not they typical Snapshot Lean Use Tripod or Monopod

Hand Held vs. Tripod

Photo Dos
Take pictures from a variety of angles and views. This will give you a more interesting point of view. Every picture should have a subject and a purpose. Remember the better the photo, the easier it will be to write good copy for that photo. You must get in close for a good shot! As a representative of the yearbook, you are allowed and required to get in close. Every event you go to you should either fill up the memory card or take 100 shots min. The more you take the better you get and the better chance you have for that one outstanding photo!

Photo donts
Dont take pictures that capture the backs of people's heads (or their behinds). Photos like this should not be used. Do not take pictures of students posing for the camera. The more you carry a camera the less of a distraction it will become. Every photo should catch subjects doing something, even if it is just walking down the hall or sitting hunched over a textbook. Dont be obtrusive if at all possible, make sure you are not wearing loud colored, distracting clothing or getting in the way. Don't be in such a hurry to finish and leave take your time and enjoy the event you are at.

Things to think about:

What generalizations can we make about the dull photos? What perspectives or are present in the dull ones? What generalizations can we make about the interesting photos? What specific perspectives, angles, distances, or tricks did the photographer use to make the photo interesting? Do certain photos have a different mood or feeling to them? How does a change in perspective change the effect of the photo on the viewer? What makes the photos you chose to put in the yearbook a "good photo"? What elements do they have?