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4 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 4 Polymerization .................................................................................................... 4 Spinning ............................................................................................................. 4 Drawing .............................................................................................................. 5 Variations on the Basic Polyester ....................................................................... 5 Making Yarns...................................................................................................... 6 Blends ................................................................................................................ 6 Weaving ............................................................................................................. 7 Finishing Processes ........................................................................................... 7
Types of Polyester .................................................................................................... 8 4.1 4.2 4.3 PET Polyester..................................................................................................... 8 PCDT Polyester .................................................................................................. 9 PBT - Poly Butylene Terephthalate ................................................................... 9
Types of Polyester Yarns ........................................................................................ 10 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 Filament Yarns ................................................................................................. 10 Textured Yarns ................................................................................................. 10 Spun Yarns ....................................................................................................... 10 Trademarked Fabrics ....................................................................................... 11
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Properties of Polyester ............................................................................................ 13 Uses of Polyester .................................................................................................... 15 7.1 7.2 7.3 Use of polyester in garments ............................................................................ 15 Industrial uses of polyester ............................................................................... 16 The Future ........................................................................................................ 17
Bibliography ............................................................................................................ 18
POLYESTER
1 INTRODUCTION TO POLYESTER
Polyester is a chemical term which can be broken into poly, meaning many, and ester, a basic organic chemical compound. Polyester is a term often defined as long-chain polymers chemically composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester and a dihydric alcohol and a terephthalic acid. In other words, it means the linking of several esters within the fibers. Polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from coal, air, water, and petroleum. Developed in a 20th-century laboratory, polyester fibers are formed from a chemical reaction between an acid and alcohol. In this reaction, two or more molecules combine to make a large molecule whose structure repeats throughout its length. Polyester fibers can form very long molecules that are very stable and strong. Polyester is used in the manufacture of many products, including clothing, home furnishings, industrial fabrics, computer and recording tapes, and electrical insulation. Polyester has several advantages over traditional fabrics such as cotton. Today, polyester is largely regarded as a cheap fabric that is rather uncomfortable for sensitive human skin to wear. However, the emergence of luxury fibers like polyester microfiber and various polyester blends the industry is experiencing resurgence. The Tennessee Eastman Company and the Man-Made Fiber Producers Associations (MMFPA) Polyester Fashion Council played a significant role in the revival of polyester. The Tennessee Eastman Company started a YES campaign for polYESter and popularized it via radio and television. The idea was to focus on the wash and go properties of polyester rather than sell it as a cheap fabric. Today, the biggest contributor to the appeal of polyester is the discovery of microfibers. Microfibers give polyester the feel of silk and are rapidly becoming the choice of fabric. With an expensive tag to match, the cheap image of polyester seems to be on its way out. Heres to heralding a new era in the history of polyester!
2 HISTORY OF POLYESTER
In 1926, United States-based E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Co. began research into very large molecules and synthetic fibers. This early research, headed by W.H. Carothers, centered on what became nylon, the first synthetic fiber Soon after, in the years 1939-41, British research chemists took interest in the du Pont studies and conducted their own research in the laboratories of Calico Printers Association Ltd. This work resulted in the creation of the polyester fiber known in England as Terylene. In 1946, du Pont purchased the right to produce this polyester fiber in the United States. The company conducted some further developmental work, and in 1951, began to market the fiber under the name Dacron. During the ensuing years, several companies became interested in polyester fibers and produced their own versions of the product for different uses. Subsequent to the development of Terylene and Dacron, Kodel was developed by Eastman Chemical Products, Inc in 1958. The polyester market underwent rapid expansion and textile mills emerged everywhere. Many of the mills were located at small gas stations and produced cheap polyester apparel. The inexpensive and durable fiber became very popular and the industry expanded rapidly till the 1970s. Unfortunately, the infamous double-knit polyester image hit the industry and polyester soon came to be known as the uncomfortable fabric.
3.1 Polymerization
Condensation polymerization occurs when the acid and alcohol are reacted in a vacuum at high temperatures. The polymerized material is extruded in the form of a ribbon onto a casting trough or cooling wheel. After the ribbon hardens, it is cut into chips.
3.2 Spinning
Polymer chips are melted at 500-518F (260-270C) to form a syrup-like solution. The molten polymer is then extruded through a spinneret and the filaments are subsequently drawn into the desired polyester fiber. Variations are introduced to obtain desired end results. Spinnerets having hole of different shapes such as round, trilobal, pentalobal, hexalobal or octalobal can be used for special effects like opacity, luster or its suppression, wicking, comfort or feel. Hollow fibers may be produced to make it lightweight and for providing greater cushioning or insulative properties. Crepe effect can be obtained through crimps. Certain additives may also be combined with the spinning solutions for specific properties. Delusterant can be added to make the fiber dull, a flame retardant may be added or certain other antistatic substance may also be included.
3.3 Drawing
After extrusion from the spinneret, the fibers are drawn or elongated, with the help of godet wheels. Depending upon the desired properties, the polyester fibers are usually drawn up to five times its original length. For higher tenacity, the filaments are drawn to a greater extent. When the fibers come in contact with the air, they solidify. Usually, the PET fibers are drawn hot as it produces more uniform fibers. PCDT fibers are drawn at higher temperature due to their higher melting point. During the drawing process itself, fibers may be textured which saves time, efforts and production cost and also gives greater quality control over the finished fibers. After the polyester yarn is drawn, it is wound on large bobbins or flat-wound packages, ready to be woven into material.
Adding dye: In its natural state, polyester is a slightly transparent off-white. Adding dye at the manufacturing stage can create brilliant colors like electric blue and atomic red. Crimping : When the fiber is drawn out it is long and smooth. Crimping can give the fiber more texture and bulk and can increase its insulation properties, as well as its elasticity.
3.6 Blends
At this stage, polyester can also be combined with other fibers to produce a variety of effects. Polyester and cotton is probaby the most famous and popular blend. The polyester helps the fabric retain its shape and resist stains and wrinkles. The cotton makes the fabric more absorbent and comfortable. Polyester is combined with wool to give it wrinkle-resistance and shape retention in all kinds of weather. Since polyester is stronger than wool, it increases the durability and life of the fabric. The wool contributes good draping characteristics and elasticity. Polyester and rayon is another popular blend fabric. Here again the polyester makes the fabric more resilient and durable, and helps it keep its shape. The rayon adds a different texture, has a good hand, is good for draping, and is absorbent. Polyester and nylon produce a strong fabric because of nylon's strength and abrasion resistance and polyester's wrinkle-free properties. This combination produces a yarn that is strong, durable, stable, easy to launder, and resistant to mildew and insects. Problems with this blend, however, are that pilling may occur, and it does not have a very good hand. Furthermore, since neither nylon nor polyester is very absorbent, the fabric may feel wet and clammy in warm or humid weather. 6
3.7 Weaving
After the yarns are made, they are shipped out to textile mills to be woven into fabric. Polyester can be made into both woven and knitted fabrics (such as the infamous double-knit!)
4 TYPES OF POLYESTER
The polyester fibers are generally available in two varieties- PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PCDT (poly-1, 4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate). PET is the most common production. It is stronger than PCDT, while PCDT has more elasticity and resilience. PET can be used alone or blended with other fabrics for making wrinkle free and stain resistant clothing that can retain its shape. PCDT is more suitable for heavier applications, such as draperies and furniture coverings. Modifications can be introduced in each of these varieties for obtaining specific properties.
Its melting point is 232 C. Its chief application is in field of industrial plastics. Lately, it has also been used to manufacture carpet yarns and textile fibres. Base resin is widely used in compounding. Has good chemical & heat resistance and outstanding electrical properties. It is easy to make flame retardant and master batches.
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TRADEMARK
MANUFACTURER
TYPE
SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS
USES
A.C.E.
Allied Corp.
Multifilament
Crepesoft
American Co.
Enka Multifilament
Dacron
E.I.du Pont de Multifilament , Types vary Apparel, Nemours & co. staple,tow. according to home desired purpose furnishings, industrial fabric American Co. Enka Multifilament Types vary Apparel,home according to furnishings desired purpose Types vary apparel, according to home desired purpose furnishing, industrial fabrics Types vary Apparel, according to home desired purpose furnishings, industrial fabric,tire cord 11
Enron
Enka polyester
American Co.
Enka Multifilament
Fortrel
Fortel Pcp
Producer-coloured
Home furnishings. Apparel, home furnishings Apparel, home furnishings, industrial fabrics
Golden Touch
fine denier
Hanover Polyester
Hanover inc.
KodOfill
Staple
Hollow
Lambda
Matte touch
Multifilament
Monofilament
Flame retardent
Spectran
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6 PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER
y Strength y Polyester fibre is relatively strong and durable than other fibres. y High tenacity PET polyester filaments used for and industrial purposes. y Abrasion resistance of polyester fibre is being exceeded only by nylon fibres. y The strength, abrasive nature, and stability make polyester very suitable for sewing thread where adequate tension is ensure without losing the shape of the garment. PET polyester is superior in all regards of strength as compared to PCDT. Elasticity polyester do not shape as it has low degree of elasticity.(PCDT>PET ; elasticity) Resilience polyester fibre have high degree of resilience. it resist wrinkling when dry and even when wet. Drapibility polyester yarns are more flexible and softer thereby fabric have good draping quality Heat conductivity polyester fabric have average heat conductivity. polyester filament fibre is round and when converted into fabric it has fewer air spaces and less insulation. Polyester fabric are less warm as compared to acrylic, silk and wool and more as compared to cotton, linen and rayon. Absorbency polyester is one of least absorbent fibre. It has advantages y it will dry rapidly(suited for water repellant purposes) y It does not stain easily y easy to clean and dry It has disadvantage also. y it is uncomfortable in humid weather as it does not absorb perspiration.
y y
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y y y y
Shrinkage once set polyester fabric have excellent dimensional stability. Resistant to insect polyester is detestable to insects. Affinity for dyes dye friendly polyester gives variety of colours to the fabric. Effect of bleaching polyester fabric can be easily bleached owing to good resistance to deterioration. Effect of heat polyester fabric get sticky at 227-242 centigrade so ironing should be done at lower temperature. Effect of light polyester fabric has resistance to degradation by sunlight. This quality suited for use as curtains. Effect of chemical polyester fiber has resistance to medium acid-base treatment.
y .
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7 USES OF POLYESTER
Polyester is the choice of fiber and fabric for many industries. It can be applied to a wide variety of useful purposes.
insulating polyester fiberfill products. One can also do winter windsurfing wearing dry suits lined with polyester fleece. Creating insulation: By creating hollow fibers it is also possible to build insulation into the polyester fiber. Air is trapped inside the fiber, which is then warmed by the heat of the body. This keeps the body warm in cold weather. Another method to build insulation is to use crimped polyester in a fiberfill. The crimp helps keep the warm air in. Polyester is an ideal fabric for this kind of insulation because it retains its shape. Cotton and wool tend to flatten over a period of time and loose the warming effect. Wrinkle resistant: Polyester is also wrinkle resistant and is used very often in everyday clothing like pants, shirts, tops, skirts and suits. Used either by itself or as a blend, it is also stain resistant and hence very popular.
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Following its introduction to the United States in 1951, polyester quickly became the country's fastest-growing fiber. Easy care of the permanent press fabric made polyester double knits extremely popular in the late 1960s. However, polyester has suffered an "image problem" since that time, and clothes made out of polyester were often devalued and even ridiculed. Several new forms of polyester introduced in the early 1990s may help revitalize the image of polyester. A new form of polyester fiber, called microfiber, was introduced to the public in 1991. More luxurious and versatile than traditional polyester, microfiber fabrics are difficult to tell apart from silk fabrics. Clothing designers such as Mary McFadden have created a line of clothes using this new form of polyester. Textile researchers at North Carolina State University are developing a form of polyester that may be as strong as Kevlar, a super fiber material used to make
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8 BIBLIOGRAPHY
Textiles Fiber to Fabric www.texmin.nic
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