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A simple, fill-in-the-blanks method for making a raglan sweater that is knit from the neck down, in one piece, to fit anybody!
Introduction
This raglan is a sweater knit from the neck down, in a single piece on circular needles and can be made to fit any size, from infant to adult. It can also be adapted to become a cardigan, crew-neck, cowl-neck or V-neck (or any other kind of neck, really). You can use any weight of yarn, as well as any stitch and/or color pattern that you desire. This form of raglan sweater is not new. Jean Dickinson wrote about it in Threads Magazine (The Magic Raglan, April 1988, pp. 28-29). She got the idea from Ida Riley Duncans The Complete Book of Progressive Knitting (Liveright: 1966, 1961, 1940). This form you are holding in your hands is an updated version of Pamela Costellos form, published on the Internet (http://www.woolworks.org/patterns/raglan.html) in 1995. This worksheet will take you through the steps required to design and knit the custom-fit raglan. This is not technically a knitting pattern - it is more of an un-pattern, a road map for the knitter who yearns to break free from the constraints imposed by traditional knitting patterns.
desired yarn, in required amount (see table on following page) circular needles, in 16 (40cm) and 19 (48cm) lengths - needle size will depend on yarn 2 markers in one color (marker A) 4 markers in a second color (marker B) flexible measuring tape calculator pencil (and eraser) for filling out worksheet
Yarn
Weight/color/fiber content: This is your sweater, so you can choose any yarn you desire! Any weight, color or fiber may be used, but bear in mind a few guidelines:
natural fibers last longer than synthetic (if youre going to the trouble of knitting a custom-fit sweater, you natural fibers also look better and retain their shape if you are a beginner knitter, you will find wool more forgiving than cotton or silks blends alpaca tends to be heavy and can result in a droopy look - make sure you knit a large swatch if youre
want it to last, right?)
planning to go this route (and make sure youre honest with yourself about how it looks and feels once youve done that) hairy yarn will obscure any fancy stitch patterns you intend to use - if youre planning a cable knit sweater, choose yarn that has good stitch definition unless you know the person well, youd be better off sticking with a neutral (or basic) colour novelty (read: trendy) yarns will eventually go out of style if youre in a hurry to knit this up, stay away from finer yarns and pick something with some bulk if the recipient of the sweater has a round shape, stay away from bulkier yarns (they are not flattering to someone who is carrying extra weight) and stick with something that has a bit more drape if this sweater is intended for an infant or child, you may consider choosing a washable yarn - consult with your LYS operator before purchasing ...continued on next page...
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Yarn (cont.)
Quantity: It is impossible to calculate in advance the exact amount of yarn needed. There are simply too many variables in your knitting and in the yarn itself to make an exact calculation. However, you can make a rough estimate that will help in deciding how much yarn to buy, either by using a chart that your LYS salesperson should have, or by referring to the chart below. In any case, always buy one more skein than you think youll need. If you save the receipt, you can likely return any full skeins you dont use (just consult with your LYS). This chart also gives approximations of the raglan measurements for each standard size. This is provided in case it is impossible to actually measure the intended recipient of the sweater. Since people come in all different shapes, you can achieve a better custom fit by using actual measurements instead of this chart.
320 420 510 620 660 790 830 910 1040 1080 1120 1200 1250 1290 1370 1400 1500
370 500 620 750 800 950 1000 1100 1250 1300 1350 1450 1500 1550 1650 1700 1800
450 600 750 900 960 1140 1200 1320 1500 1560 1620 1740 1800 1860 1980 2040 2160
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Measurements
Neck circumference (or desired collar size): Raglan length (measured from collarbone to underarm):
.
Desired sweater body length (measured from underarm, down side of body): Desired sleeve length (measured from underarm, along inside of arm):
.
Desired cuff circumference:
.
Note: though many sweaters rely on bust/chest measurements, this one does not. The measurements shown are the only ones you will need - I told you, its magic!
Determining gauge
Using the yarn you have chosen, cast on 26 stitches. For the first 4 rows, work in garter stitch. Starting at row 5, work the first 3 sts in garter stitch, work 20 stitches in your desired stitch pattern, and knit the last 3 sts in garter stitch. Work this swatch until the center portion measures at least 4 in length and then work 4 more rows of garter stitch, before binding off. Block your swatch and let it dry completely. Carefully measure the width of your 20-stitch section and insert the number in the box labeled Swatch Width, below and perform the calculation as shown:
20
Swatch Width
Gauge
x
Gauge
Neck Circumference
=
Total Neck Stitches
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x 0.33
Back Stitches
Back Stitches
x 0.25
Front Stitches
0.25
0.25
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Casting On
The most complicated part of the sweater is the neck opening (the cast-on edge). Once you get past this part, the rest is a breeze! If you were to simply cast on the total neck stitches in a circle, you would not be able to get the completed sweater over your head! This problem is solved by having the front of the neck dropped. To achieve this, the neck is knit as an incomplete circle, increasing one stitch on each end, every other row, until half of the front stitches have been added. The remaining front stitches are then cast on to complete the circle. **NOTE: This set of instructions will create a crew neck - for other variations, see page 7.** The four markers of the same color (called marker B) are used to separate the front, sleeves, and back. The two markers (called marker A) are used to keep track of the increases of the front stitches. The neck is cast on in this order (refer to the oranges boxes on the previous page and use them to fill in the blanks below:
1 stitch (to build the right side of the neck front) marker A 1 stitch (increase stitch) marker B sleeve stitches + 2 extra increase stitches = marker B back stitches + 2 extra increase stitches = marker B sleeve stitches + 2 extra increase stitches = marker B 1 stitch (increase stitch) marker A 1 stitch (to build the left side of the neck front)
. . .
Note: The calculation allows for fairly roomy sleeves. If you are designing a sweater for a woman and youd like slim-fitting sleeves, you may want to try re-assigning some sleeve stitches to the back and front sections by moving the B markers in towards the middle of the sleeves. You want to keep your sleeves centered, so if you give one stitch to the back section, make sure you give one to the front, too.
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X
Gauge
Cuff Circumference
=
Cuff Stitches
The same note about the curling of the hem applies to the sleeves, so if you dont want that to happen, choose a flat-lying stitch pattern and use it before you reach the desired length sleeve. If youre using ribbing, use a needle one size smaller to do so. Bind off and weave in all your ends.
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Variations
Weve hinted at a few of the variations that you can make to this basic pattern, but there are so many, it might make your head spin! Just keep the sweater recipient in mind, as youre making these decisions.
Cardigans
If youd like to make a cardigan instead of a pullover, there are two methods you can choose from: 1. Add 6 extra stitches to the center front of the neck when you complete the neck shaping and join, just as you would for the pullover. Work these 6 stitches in seed stitch to form a steek down the front of the sweater. Continue the steek all the way down through to the bottom hem. After the knitting is complete, sew on either side of the center of the steek with a sewing machine using a straight stitch. Then cut between the sewing lines (this is not for the faint of heart). Fold the steek to the inside of the sweater and sew it down with yarn. Sew in a zipper, leave the edges plain or pick up the edge stitches and knit up a button band, as desired. 2. Do not join after the neck is complete, but continue to work back and forth for the entire sweater (thus leaving the front open). Sew in a zipper, leave the edges plain or pick up the edge stitches and knit up a button band, as desired.
Images are At My Mothers Knee. This is for personal and non-prot use only.
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