A Memorable trip to Goa

10/05/1999 to 21/05/1999 Computer Compilation 21st September 2013

At last I decided to make a trip to Goa.

Everything has got its own right time and place. Even

though I had a plan to make out the trip during these summer holidays, I was not yet mentally prepared. More than a definite plan, I require a mental preparation before every journey. One may call it a starting trouble but once I am set going, I keep on going. This is my natural inclination. At last I could prepare my mind for the trip. My sister was there and so my hotel and lodgings bill could be really cut short. That was an advantage. They might leave the place shortly. My brother-in-law had some job threats. So, it was worthwhile that I visited the place during their tenure. I scanned the calendar for a suitable holiday and finally decided to leave my place for Goa on 30th of April. 1st of May was naturally a holiday and the following day was Sunday. This meant that I could save a couple of days leave by that way. I started off with my family my wife and my 12 year old son. Up to Mangalore from Palakkad we travelled by the West Coast Express. 2nd AC travel was very comfortable. Beating all my previous experiences, the train came on dot and I was very happy. It meant that if the train maintained its schedule, we would reach Mangalore on time so that our onward journey to Margoa would be a comfortable one. I knew that there was a train leaving Mangalore for Goa at 7.15AM. If I missed the train, then, I had to depend on buses. It could really mean discomfort ability in some way. I narrowly would have missed this connection train. My train reached Mangalore at 7AM and the connection train was ready for departure from Platform No 3. Nearly half-an-hour was lost at Kasargod on account of a crossing. It nearly played the trick. Meanwhile, I had an acquaintance with a co-passenger who happened to be a Railway employee. He gave me useful

tips to catch the connection train and volunteered to telephone my brother-in-law about our arrival at Margoa. He knew that I had only very little time left at Mangalore to purchase onward tickets and also telephone my brother-in-law. He addressed himself as Mr Polar. I had to believe my ears. He kept his word. He did telephone him about our arrival. Our train to Margoa was ready for departure. We hurried to board the train. The entire train was chair car and also vestibule. We left Mangalore at 7.15 with a lot of expectation of a travel along the Konkan Railway. We had heard that it could be a memorable experience. But, to my disappointment, there was not much to be seen except the usual landscapes that one would see while travelling. Barren lands, fields, green hills, isolated life lent only the usual charm. Besides, we experienced twenty one tunnels along the route. That was the only exception. The first tunnel appeared soon after Kanganadi. The last tunnel appeared eight minutes before we reached Margoa. Meanwhile, we passed some of the longest tunnels along the route. Tunnel No 17 which appeared after a few minutes the train had left Cancona station seemed to be the longest one. It took 2 minutes for the train to clear the tunnel. Soon after this, a small tunnel appeared and this was followed by yet another a long one. There was deceleration in the middle and the train took just over 2 minutes to clear this tunnel. Tunnel No 13 which appeared after 15 minutes the train left Karwar had a very foul smell throughout the length. Our train took just over half-a-minute to clear it. This was the only tunnel having such a foul smell. Food was available in the train. Lunch was not available. Cool drinks, mineral water, snacks and iddli such items were available in the train. Hawkers ran hither and thither. When Konkan Railway was started a couple of years ago, this was not the case. Now, one need not worry much about his hunger while travelling along this route. When we reached Madgoan, the train was late by an hour. This is a usual business along this route. Since double track system is still not available in this area, a train is detained at a station for twenty or thirty minutes for crossings. During the journey, our train was detained for the crossing of two trains. One was Rajadhani Express going in our direction. Stations are small. Since the route is relatively new, they are kept neat and clean. Between Mangalore and Margao, there are twenty three stations spread across a distance of 321 KM. Konkan Railway extends further up to Roha and the total track clearance is 762.65KM. Before reaching Margao, I could find only one bridge of notable length. This appeared soon after Karwar, about eight minutes after the station. We reached Margao at 2.50PM. My brother-in-law, Mr. Ganesh had come to the station with his office van. Panaji is 30KM from here. There is no real railway up to Panaji. Vasco Goa is the

last station towards the West. Margao is a junction from where one line goes to Vasco and another line to Sawantwadi and Mumbai. This Konkan Railway goes along the North-West of Goa and touches Old Goa, Mayem and Mapusa Road within the Goa State. This Konkan Railway is the brain child of Mr E Sreedharan and is a marvelous brain child too in aspects of plan and execution. One must think of him only with folded hands. We reached our place around 4Oclock. Travel by road was an experience. Portuguese flavor was already in the air and all around us and I was driven back through centuries. It was country side within our view and our travel suggested another journey along the Trissur-Kunnamkulam Highway or Palakkad-Trissur Highway. Except for those old churches built in pure Gothic style which flew past us now and then, the total atmosphere was one of Keralas country sides. Only those churches brought in all the difference. They at once took my heart to the cradle of Portuguese days and the Dutch life. These churches served as an index to our own past culture and a heritage which have been preserved by the natives down many generations. By preserving these churches very much alive, they have preserved their own very lineage and the memories of their fore-fathers. Our car flew past Goa Medical College. We descended a hill of a steady slope and soon came farther down. A right turn and we were off the road. A board around the corner invited my attention. It read Kenkre Estate. Down the path was a row of buildings. The path was a steady down-hill way and soon we were in front of B2. The slope of the path suggested that it was something which one might experience while climbing the Sabari Hills. Heart patients really cannot climb this path to reach the main road. We had our meals at 4Oclock. I could experience a new taste. I could experience a new surrounding and a different air. Behind the building, Bambolim-Panaji road could be seen up above the hill. Trees and bushes were all around the place. It all gave me an impression of a hill view against the back drop of silence except for the sound of odd vehicles. In the evening brother-in-law took me for a ride to Panaji in his scooter. We reached the main road by another way which ran behind the apartments and a row of houses. It was as if I had entered a county-side in Kerala. Near Dona Julia Apartments we entered the main road. The road was calm and quiet at that hour. There wasnt much traffic. Soon we came to a small junction. An old church and a big church-yard fell to my left. Through the windows of the church I could see the inside illumination of this ancient church. The total atmosphere transported me to a different level of inhaling the past. I wished to get down there and see the Altar. It was the Santa Cruz church very much built in the Gothic style with laterite stones as most of the other churches. In one corner of the court-yard, a volley ball court could be seen. A simple, casual life spurred around the place.

After about ten minutes of travel, we entered the Panaji town. The first landmark was a foot over-bridge built in the form of an arch. A canal ran underneath it. The impression was that I was in a place like Venice which was a city of backwaters, canals and old type of arch bridges. Beyond the arch foot over-bridge was Old Patto Bridge. This was also an arch bridge and as the name suggested, it was an old bridge. The spans were arch in style. The canal was widening at this point and it was closing in with Mandovi River after fifty or hundred yards. Here too was a bridge, a new arch bridge having more length and height. This was New Patto Bridge. Here, it was one way. Only incoming vehicles were allowed through this bridge. Bus stand was very near and was only walkable distance from the foot-over bridge. At Old Patto Bridge, we took a left hand turn and entered the city. Old buildings and old shops invited my eyes. From the main road, by lanes ran in parallel to my left. Later, I discovered that this was once the Panaji market buzzing with activity. Now, there wasnt much huzzle-buzzle around the place. The city had extended further towards the Eastern side along the D B Bantodkar Road and M G Road up to the Medical College. Shops around the place near Old Patto Bridge bore Portuguese names and I once again fell to olden days. See the names of some of the shops:1. Camilo Menezas - Farmacia (drug store). 2. Incocencio Fernandes and sons 3. Farmacia F Menezes 4. Pedro Fernandes and Co (Music Instruments) Estd. 1928. 5. G X Verlecar Jolharia 6. Aleluia Menezes and sons (Hardware) 7. Bento Miguel Fernandes and Filhos L DA (Gift emporium). 8. J M P Dias (Calculators, hearing aids etc) 9. Loja Camota Tintas, Ferro etc 10. A Pastelaria Pastry shop in Mandovi Hotel Building. Later on, I had several walks around this place to catch the real flavor of Goa. To really speak, I love old establishments and old names. One way they are monuments of the past and without such past, the present is not continuous. We rode past the Head Post Office and the Secretariat. This area and these buildings impressed me. The traffic was rather light at that hour. Secretariat building seemed to be a small building and I wondered how such an institution could exist right in front of a road without having a garden or an open court-yard. I could not believe my eyes. We sped along the M G Road. My brother-in-law was giving me a running commentary of the roads and the place. Soon, at a turning I saw to my right the Mandovi Hotel. It was one of the prestigious hotels of the town, fully air conditioned and meant for foreign tourists. The building

wore only an ordinary look around the corner. Later in the week I did peep into the reception hall to get an idea of the luxuriousness. Two ladies were at the Reception counter and their appearance suggested that they were no less than air-hostesses. It gave me an idea about the hotel. There was a book shop in one corner of the reception hall and it really was meant for those people whose purses had only foreign currencies. I am always conscious about the price of books and a price more than one hundred rupees needed a second thought for buying them. As far as I can recollect, I have purchased only two books so far in my life which cost me more than my dead line. One is a collection of William Wordsworth and the other is a biography of O Henry. Both are irresistible books. Near this area I saw our State Bank of India, Panaji branch. It gave me a feeling of deep intimacy since I was also a part of the SBI family. This family was really a big tree spanning over two centuries. Soon, we entered the D B Bandodkar Road which ran parallel to Mandovi River. It was an open road and a beautiful avenue too. There was a cool wind and I could see illuminated boats cruising along the thick waters. Those were the Santa Monica boats returning from Miramar beach. All along the drive I was watching the road side shops and buildings to have a glimpse of the Goan flavor and Portuguese air. The road was like a smooth carpet. After the market place, Dempo House and the Goa Medical College, the road was really calm with shops scattered at random. I was inhaling the flavor. Campal Grounds appeared to my right. Mandovi river flowed by the edge of it. Beyond the grounds was a swimming pool. An exhibition was going on at one end of the ground. The road was open. We reached a Circle and to my right was Miramar beach. It was past 7Oclock and Sodium vapor lamp was illuminating the white sands. From the road itself the beach impressed me. The beach was 200 to 300 meters from the road. It was an open beach. People thronged in but lay scattered so that one did not feel the beach to be crowded. Coconut palm grove adorned one area. Around the Giant Wheel there was enough huzzle-buzzle. Ships lay scattered at a distance. Lights from those ships, boats and the distant shores added beauty to the surroundings and gave an impression of Queens Necklace. Birch trees boarded the Northern side of the beach. A beach hotel was seen amongst the trees. I was experiencing the beauty and the captivating air of beaches of Goa for the first time. Goa is a place very popular for its shores, water lines, natural beauty and country side quietness. Mandovi and Zuari are the main two rivers which water the country. Mandovi joins the sea near Miramar beach. The river in the Panaji area seems to be more than a river. With its thick waters and lashing waves, it really meant to be a sea. Zuari River is also majestic and there is a long arch bridge on the Panjim-Margoa route across the river. Konkan Railway also has built a long bridge in parallel to the road bridge.

There are more than twenty one beaches along the coastal side of Goa counting from Querim beach in the North to Colva and Benaulim beaches near Margoa in the Central Goa. During our trip, we were to the following beaches: On Sunday, we had a pleasure trip around Goa in my brother-in-laws official van. After visiting two or three churches in old Goa Bum Jesus, Se Cathedral and St Francis Assisi church and spending our afternoon at Mayhem lake, we went around Calangute, Anjuna and Vagathor beaches and while returning, went up to Dona Paula. It was dusk. Lights from far away ships and distant shore lines presented an impressive picture of the landscape. There was a statue of Dona Paula jutting out of a rock. Story goes on that she was a princess who fell in love with a local country lad. She had to face difficulties and could not fulfill her ambition. Finally, she committed suicide by jumping to the sea from the spot where her statue was presently situated. She had thus become a legend. Millions of tourists might have crossed this spot over centuries but how many of them might have sighed over the thought of her plight? I tried to visualize. There was a Pavilion at the top of a hill here and one could really enjoy the panoramic beauty of the surroundings from here. In Goa, most of the beaches are on hill sides. One has to really climb down these hills to reach the shores. And some beaches are really unapproachable for that matter. Hills are not really rocky but hard laterite stones which can stand the test of time for centuries. Yet, I could see land slides in beaches like Anjuna. Trenches had been formed due to high tides over so many decades. The edges of hills near the sea-shore had become arch in shape. Beaches are generally lined with thick coconut palm groves. They form thick shades and give tourists a protection on a sunny day. Bambolim beach was the nearest one lying to my sisters residence. It was really a desolate country side. After the Goa Medical College area, it was all the way climbing down a hill to reach the beach. At the entrance to the beach I saw an old church in dilapidated condition. If preserved, it could be one of the living monuments as belonging to 16th or 17th century. I could not figure out how the church was abandoned in the course of time. Time is the maker and Time is the destroyer too. This is the truth. Years later, I happened to read the following poem of our poetess Parvathy Nair Valsala and was instantly transported to the above scenes. (Incidentally, she won the first Rabindranath Tagore Award for the Best English Poet of 2012 in the National Poetry Competition organized by www.xpresspublications.com for this very poem. I reproduce the full text of it).

Silence of the Ruins.

Against the sky, amidst the dark Abreast the winds, the heights that withstood; The mark of an era, faith of centuries Rises in ruins, a mansion that reigned. The broken walls, fate forlorn Hollow that spreads, vastness senile The sober tranquil, power deprived The silent imprints, symbols that meant Hymns that still chant, winds that resonate Bells that still ring, voices that whisper Prayers answered and unheard, Hearts that forewent, humility dawned Chapels that blessed, altars that healed The Lady of Sorrow and tears that shed; Candles that faded, camphor that burned Sins that chastened, spirits that bowed. The walls still resonate, truth ever reigns Above the peril, the power still prevails; Against the sky, the aura remains

The wind still blows, faith still rules. Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx She has stunningly captured the old winds of Goa. I could really inhale them during my trip to Goa. A drive along the Goa University area is really an experience. Along the edge of a hill it presents relaxed moments and a refreshing air. Sea could be seen far down the hill to my left. From Bambolim beach, by coming along this way, one can reach the National Institute of Oceanography junction. If we take a left turn here, we will reach Dona Paula and a right turn will lead you to Miramar and Panaji city. At Miramr one day a shooting was going on. Suchitra and Chandrasekhar had their scenes shot. I watched the shooting for sometime. Hot A scenes were being filmed. Since Goa has been endowed with natural beauty, film makers have always an eye for the place. Against the backdrop of sandy beaches and lashing waves, themes are not important for them but the natural beauty counts a lot. Important Film festivals are also conducted here. On Sunday the 2nd of May, while covering places in Goa, we first went to Old Goa to see the churches. We travelled via Ribander. We covered the following spots on this day:1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Bumb Jesus Chrch St Francis Assisi church Mayem Lake Aguada Fort Calangute beach Anjuna Beach Vagator Beach Miramar Beach Dona Paula

To Mayem Lake Came back to Panaji and caught the Mumbai NH 17 route. Took diversion and went along Tivim, Assanora and turned to South via Siri Gao and Bicholim and reached the lake. Anjuna Beach:- You get foreigners here. The sea is unapproachable here. The shore is rocky and at the edge, land slide was also seen.

Aguada Fort:- From this ancient fort, the view of the sea was really enchanting. A church and a nearby spot where Vasco Da Gama landed could be seen. Calangute Beach:- Here we reached around 3.30PM and both my son Anand and niece Anu enjoyed the lashing waves very well. Vagathor Beach :- One has to go down a hill to reach the beach. The topography is very similar in every respect to that of our Kovalam Beach near Thiruvananthapuram. A beautiful arch like beach with coconut palms in the back drop adds hues to the surroundings. Rocks protrude on the shore line. It is like the Havva Beach of Kovalam. Old Goa lies on the Ponda route, around 9 KM away from Panjim. Bum Jesus is the main attraction here since it contains the relics of St Francis. Even after 350 odd years, the body hasnt worn out much by first appearance. The story is that St Francis had reached Goa in 1542. In September of the same year, he left for the South along the Malabar Coast and followed it up as far as Mylapore on the Eastern Coast, preaching to the local people the doctrine and practice of his faith. He returned to Goa in 1548and soon left for Japan to spread Christianity but he had to face opposition in the middle. Very much disappointed, he boarded a ship bound for Goa but got off the coast of China where he fell ill and expired on 3rd December 1552 at the early age of forty six. His body was buried in Sancian but subsequently removed to Malacca where he had done yeomen services. His successor had the grave opened four months after the burial to pay his homage but found the body to be fresh and life like. He could feel the impact of this miracle and he had the body brought to Goa on 16th March 1554. The body was kept at St Pauls College at first and in 1613 was transferred to the Professed House of Bum Jesus. The body of this Apostle of Peace has really undergone several mutilations commencing from 1553. The first mutilation was almost immediately after his expiry when the person who opened the grave for transporting the body to Malacca had a small portion of the flesh removed from near the knee to show his Captain the unusually fresh condition of the body. At Malacca the body suffered further damages when it was kept in a grave too short in size that the neck broke. One of the toes was bitten off in 1554 by a Portuguese lady who took it away as a relic of the saint! In 1890, one of the toes fell off, which is kept in a crystal case in the sacristy of the Basilica of Bum Jesus. The portion up to the arm was severed and sent to Rome in 1615 where it was venerated in the church of Gesu, while the remaining part of the right hand was cut off in 1916 and sent to the Jesuit Province of Japan. Some portions of the intestine were removed and distributed as relics of the saint to various places.

What was now left out in his body? I just tried to figure it out. I could not imagine. Yet, the world keeps his body as something of great value. I personally just cannot agree with the fact of keeping such bodies to be an act of reverence. In fact, the world is doing a kind of a sinful to those departed souls. Dead bodies do not matter. Mans deeds, the moral ideas that he has left behind matter. A dead body is always dead. Know for certain that it cannot bless any living being any more. When the indwelling spirit is gone, a dead body is worse than a log of wood in the real concept. Why should we keep a dead body and give it undue importance and create a feeling that body is more important that the indwelling spirit? Considering the report of his dead body, is there any point in keeping the body as such for the welfare of posterity? However argued, it is a fact that a dead body is bound to decay in a matter of time. In this case, it is a slow decay. This is the only difference. It is clear that the spirit is gone forever. He can no more appear before us in the same form. Spirit is very subtle and can fill the whole universe and continue to bless every stone and man. As far as I can see, we have dispirited the real spirit of St Francis by keeping his body open and in a mutilated condition. His spirit has been spoilt by generations due to their ignorance and certain superstitious belief. By worshipping a dead body, we are not going to gain anything in life. A human body, while alive or dead is not to be kept as a monument. We visited two more churches which stood across the road. One was the Se Cathedral and the other was a convent and church of St Francis of Assisi, both housed in the same premises. The present church of St Francis of Assisi was built in 1661. This church stands across the road on the Northern side of Bum Jesus. Se Cathedral faces East and the St Francis of Assisi faces West. Around these churches is a big open space full of shady trees, lawns and beautiful gardens. The vision around the place is really beautiful and spectacular. Se cathedrals construction was begun in 1562. The main body of the church was completed in 1619 and the altars in 1652. Se Cathedral has a golden bell. The cathedral is more than 460 years of old. The other church is also of the same age. Built in real Gothic style, these churches are real monuments of the Dutch era. Bum Jesus church was completed in 1585 but a part of it was accidentally burnt down in 1663 and was rebuilt in 1783. On Wednesday the 5th, we went for a South Goa tour covering Dona Paula, Miramar, Old Goa, Mangeshi temple, Santh Durga temple and Colva beach near Margoa. It was a nice trip covering around 130 KMs in all. We got down at Bambolim Medical College and walked down the road to reach our house. Our guide was one Mr. Dias who kept the tourists alive and alert by asking quizzical questions before we got into the bus from every tourist point. Children should not sleep. We should not get bored during the travel. That was his idea.

On the previous day, we went for the Santa Monica Cruise along the Mondovi river in the evening. It was an hour pleasure trip up to Miramar and back. Variety entertainments added color and life during the trip. The beauty of the shoreline of Panjim could be experienced all along the trip. Goa is rich for its waterways and a boat ride is necessary to get the real glimpse of the beauty of the place. One Thursday, we went for the exhibition running at the Campal grounds and had our supper at Siva Sagar hotel on the MG Road. It was a class hotel available at Panjim. A variety of food was available here. Going through the menu card itself was a confusing experience for a person like me since I did not know the names of most of the items. Under the head of Dosa, for example, you get a long list of variety of the item. For six persons, the bill came to Rs242/- for six persons and I thought that the bill was not on the higher side. Usually in the morning I used to go to Panjim by bus. Buses are available from the main road now and then. Buses are mini buses here. The fare is Rs.2/- which is collected by the conductor while getting down. He wont give us any ticket. In most cases these conductors are the bus owners as well. They are friendly with people and collect only a less fare from a person who is better known to them as a daily passenger. It is also said that they do not collect any charge from those students who have got well acquainted with the conductors. With route permit in their hands, they do cut trips on their own accord and no challenge is generally made. The route is covered in their own time. Passengers never rumble or grumble an d take these as part of their routine. For example, all the buses going from Panaji to Bambolim via Santacruz are parked for nearly ten minutes at the bus-stop near the foot-over bridge to get enough collection. The busstand is nearby and people can easily get into this place via the foot over bridge. I found that there are only two main route buses needed in Panaji. One is the Panaji-SantacruzBambolim route and the other is Panaji-Miramar or Panaji-Miramar-Dona Paula route. The third route can be up to Old Goa or Ponda. These are the city routes. One day, while returning from Panaji by scooter, I got lost my way near the house. We were returning from Siva Sagar around 9.45PM. After the Santa Cruz church, I took the right turn near the Dona Julia apartments but soon got lost my way in a pocket road. I made some enquiries with the local people but they guided or misguided me. I circled within that area for about 15 minutes. There were so many stray dogs already up in the street. The area was under their control. I began to get worried a little but finally decided to reach the main road and catch the regular way. I finally succeeded. The regular way was the usual bus-route way which was up-hill and down-hill near the house. The back-side way among the residential houses was not so laborious but it beat my calculations in that hour of night.

Our trip was coming to an end. Every beginning has an end as well. One week flew off in no time. On 8th morning, we left Goa by the Vasco Chennai holiday special train which left Margoa at 8AM. The train reached Kanganadi on dot at 2PM but as soon as it entered the Southern Railway territory, it began to run late due to crossings here and there. At the first station Ullal itself, the train was detained for about 45 minutes. It was only a beginning. The scheduled time of arrival at Palakkad was 10.10PM but when we landed on our native soil, it was past midnight and early morning 1.45AM. We hired an auto and soon reached home. Along the Konkan route there was rain and so it was cold and very pleasant. No dust nor any swat broke our nerves. For one week, I was in the world of past enjoying the ancient of Dutch and Portuguese. It is really a different world with its relaxed life- style, water-ways, beaches and natural bounty. Goan music has its own different touch and mental scales. It can really invoke the aura of the past. Bermuda trouser is one striking difference. Old ladies wear skirts. No botheration. No comments. They take life in a leisurely manner. That is Goa in a nut shell. That is the Goan way. Tourists may approach Goa with the thought of wine and women but my experience is different. Goa is heaven on earth for a casual wanderer, writer and poet like me. Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx