Knitting Technology

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.

Knitting Basics
There are two broad categories of knit textiles: weft and warp. Weft knits are made by feeding yarn to all needles horizontally to construct a course. Weft knits can be produced on either a circular knit machine or a flat bed machine. In warp knitting, one yarn is used for each knitting needle. Each stitch in a course is made by a different yarn.

Course:
Row of loops or stitches running across the knit fabric

Wale:
Vertical chain of loops in the length wise direction of the fabric, formed by one needle.

Glossary of Knitting Terms

Single knit:
Knit fabric produced using a single set of knitting needles. It is usually a thin lightweight fabric.

Double-knit:
Knit fabric produced on two sets of opposed needles. It is thicker and heavier than a single knit fabric.

Technical Face:
The outside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the outside of a finished garment made from the fabric.

Technical Back:
The inside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the inside of a finished garment made from the fabric.

Knit Stitch:
An interlocking series of loops used to construct fabric. See the diagram above of the basic weft knit fabric.

Tuck Stitch:
A needle receives a new yarn without losing its old loop. A tuck loop always faces the technical back of the fabric.

Welt, Miss, or Float Stitch:

These terms describe the same formation. The stitch is created by not allowing the needle to raise high enough to receive a new yarn, causing the yarn to float behind the face stitches.

Inlay Stitch:
Combination of float and tuck stitches. In a 3x1 inlay, three needles float and one tucks. Commonly used in Fleece and French Terry fabrics.

Jersey Fabric:
The basic single knit construction (T- shirt fabric) with the appearance of tiny V s on the face of the fabric and wavy courses on the back of the fabric.

Rib Fabric:
This double-knit fabric draws some wales to the front and others to the back for a ridge effect. Ribs have a higher stretch and recovery than most knits and they are used for trim and body goods.

Interlock Fabric:
Two yarn feeds are required to create one course. The knitting on front and back gives interlock a smooth surface on each side of the fabric. Selected needles can be pulled out for poor boy looks.

Lacoste Fabric:
The original stitch configuration used in Lacoste shirts. The tucking pattern creates a tiny honeycomb look on the technical back of the fabric, which is used as the face for garments.

Pique Fabric:
The combination of knit and tuck stitches gives a small diamond appearance to the face of the fabric. It is the most popular fabric used in collar/placket shirts

Industrial Knitting Process

It is a known fact that the main material for fabric construction is yarn. Knitting is the second most frequently used method, after weaving, that turns yarns or threads into fabrics. It is a versatile technique that can make fabrics having various properties such as wrinkle-resistance, stretch ability, better fit, particularly demanded due to the rising popularity of sportswear and casual wears. As of present day, knitted fabrics are used widely for making hosiery, underwear, sweaters, slacks, suits and coats apart from rugs and other home furnishings.

Knitting Industry
Knitting industry is a very complex one. It has two primary areas having their own sub divisions of specialization. One of the key segments of knitting industry manufactures knitted goods for garment manufacturers, sewing centers, and consumers among others. The other one produces finished apparels such as hosiery, sweaters, underwear etc.

Basic Principle of knitting

A knitted fabric may be made with a single yarn which is formed into interlocking loops with the help of hooked needles. According to the purpose of the fabric, the loops may be loosely or closely constructed. Crocheted fabric is the simplest example of knitting where a chain of loops is constructed from a single thread with the help of a hook. As the loops are interlocked in a knitted fabric, it can stretch in any direction even when a low-grade yarn having little elasticity is used.

Basic Construction Process of Knitted Fabric

The construction of knitted fabric is assessed by the number of stitches or loops per square inch. When the interlocking loops run lengthwise, each row is called a wale that corresponds to the direction of warp in woven fabrics. When the loops run across the fabric, each row is called a course that corresponds to the filling or weft in woven fabrics. A knitted fabric having 50 loops or stitches in one inch of width and 60 loops in one inch of length will be said to have 50 wales and 60 courses.

Importance of Needles in Knitting Process

The needle quality also affects the knitted fabric's quality. If the thickness of the hook differs from one needle to another then the stitches will also vary in width. Same is the case with loops which will vary in length with the needle lengths. Various types of needles are used for making different knitted fabrics including latch needle, spring-beard needle, and compound needle. Latch needle has a latch or swinging finger that closes onto the hook of the needle as it pulls the yarn through a loop in order to form a new loop. It is used for jersey and rib knitting. A spring-beard needle has a fine, springy hook looking like a beard. This hook has to be used with a sinker to hold the fabric down and a presser to close the hook as it forms the loop. It is used for making more fine fabrics with smaller loops. A compound needle made up of a hook and a sliding closing element is used for faster knitting with lesser fabric distortion.

Types of knitted Fabrics

There are various types of knitted fabrics and each type has different appearance and characteristics. The construction of a knitted fabric depends upon the type being constructed. A knitted fabric that has more wales will be rigid and stable in width while a fabric that has more courses will be rigid and stable in length. A fabric having many wales and courses per square inch will have better recovery from stretching than a fabric having lesser wales and courses. Such fabric that will have fewer wales and courses will be less rigid, stretch more easily, fit to body shape in a better way but will have poorer recovery ability. All the knitted fabrics are classified into two general categories: Weft knit fabric, where one continuous yarn forms courses across the fabric. Warp knit fabric, where a series of yarns form wales in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.

1)

Weft Knitting

There are three basic stitches in weft knitting Plain-knit stitch Purl stitch Rib stitch Any other stitch is a variation of these three stitches. Hand knitting is basically weft knitting. When done on weft knitting machines, individual yarn is fed to a single or multiple needles at a time.

Plain-knit stitch:
Plain knit, the basic form of knitting can be produced in flat knit or in tubular (or circular) form. It is also called jersey stitch or balbriggan stitch. A row of latch or beard needles is arranged in a linear position on a needle plate or in a circular position on a cylinder. The side by side evenly spaced needles are moved by cams, which act on the needle butts. The spacing of the needles is called gauge, gage or cut which refers to the number of needles in one and a half inches, for example, a 60 gauge machine will have 40 needles per inch. The needles intermesh loops drawn to one side of the fabric, forming vertical herringbone like ribs or wales on the right side or technical face of the fabric. On the reverse side or the technical back, courses are visible as interlocking rows of opposed half circles. These fabrics have the tendency of curling up at the edges which is controlled to a level through certain finishes. Plain knit allows the use of single or plied yarns produces comparatively lightweight fabrics than produced by other stitches. The production rate is higher, about 5 times more than weaving. It is inexpensive and a variety of designs may be produced including stripes, multicolored patterns, textured surfaces produced by raised designs and pile effects. Plain-knit fabrics stretch

more in the width than in the length and as such, they are widely used for making underwear, gloves, hosiery and sweaters.

Purl stitch:
Purl stitch, also called link-and-link stitch, is made on flat bed knitting machines and circular machines by needles using hooks on both ends to alternately draw loops to the front of the fabric in one course and to the back in the next course. The fabrics look similar on both the sides resembling back of the plain knit. Heavy, jumbo stitch is also possible which gives a bulky effect to the fabrics. However, It is comparatively slower and a costly technique. The fabric doesn't curl at the edges. Purl stitch is widely used in infant wear and kids clothing due to its crosswise stretch and excellent lengthwise stretch.

Rib stitch:
Rib stitch produces alternate lengthwise rows of plain and purl stitches and as such the face and back of the fabrics are a look-alike. Rib stitch can be produced on a flat rib machine as well as circular rib machine. In the flat rib machine, one set of needles is placed opposite the other set of needles in an inverted V position. In the circular rib machine, one set of needles is placed vertically in a cylinder and the other set of needles is placed horizontally on a dial. In both the machines, one set of needles pulls the loops to the front and the other set of needles pulls the loops to the back of the fabric. Each set of needles alternately draws loops in its own direction, depending on the width of the rib desired. For instance, rib stitches can be 1X1, 2X2, 2X1, 3X1, and the like. Accordion rib is the combination of 1x1 and 2X2. As a greater amount of yarn is required for rib stitch and the rate of production is also slower, it is an expensive method of fabric construction. The fabric doesn't curl at the edges and as the fabric possess an excellent widthwise elasticity, it is widely used for making such clothing that needs an excellent fit such as wristbands of sleeves and waistbands of garments, underwear and socks for men and children.

2)

Warp Knitting

Warp knitting is different from weft knitting in the sense that in it each needle loops its own thread. The needles of warp knitting machines produce parallel rows of loops that are interlocked in a zigzag pattern. The stitches on the front side of the fabrics appear vertically having a slight angle. The stitches on the backside appear horizontally as floats at a slight angle. These floats are called laps or underlaps and are a distinguished features of warp knit fabrics. Warp knitting machine Warp knitting may be flat or tubular that can produce a variety of patterns. It is a very fast technique that can produce fabric with a dimensional stability almost equal to that of a woven fabric. It can also use yarns of man made fibers very efficiently. There are basically seven types of warp knitting- Tricot knit; Milanese knit; Simplex knit; Raschel knit; Ketten Raschel knit; Crochet and Weft-insertion warp. Warp knit fabrics are very popular due to their many properties such as smoothness, sheerness, wrinkle resistance, shrink resistance, strength and abrasion resistance.

Comparison of Weft Knitting and Warp Knitting

Warp knit fabrics have certain advantages over weft knits Warp knit fabrics do not ravel easily. They are less prone to sagging. Quality is generally better than weft knits.. Stitch definition, texture and fabric cover are also usually better than weft knits. Warp knits have superior dimensional ability.

CALCULATION OF GSM
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.
There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric

First formula is as under:

Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex GSM = ---------------------------------------------------------------------1000 X 1000 And GSM = WPI X CPI X SL(mm) ----------------------------- X 0.9155 Count(Ne)

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH (WPI):

We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no of total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch.

CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH (CPI):

We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.

MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH (SL mm):

Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight. In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.

MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:

We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn. The equation we followed is as follow:
N x L x 453.6 Count = ---------------Wt x 36 x 840 Where,

N = number of yarn in bundle. L = length of yarn. Wt = weight of yarn.

Another formula is the following:

Ks x Tex GSM = --------------------Stitch length (mm)

Where, Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below:
Ks = GSM x Stitch length ----------------------------Tex

How do calculate Kg from Yards (Knit fabric)

Merchandising, Learn Fashion design. From this post we will learn how to calculate Kgs from Yards. Say, Fabric length - 3.3611 yards ( 121 ") Fabric Width - 45 " Fabric Gsm - 140 Rules: = Fabric length X Fabric width X GSM / 1550 / 1000 = 121" X 45" X 140 /1550 / 1000 = 762300 /1550 /1000 = 0.49180645161 kgs (weight of the followings fabric) Hope above information will help you.

KNITTING CALCULATIONS
The knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is used to produce fabric of different grammage. There is also a need to calculate optimum production of knitting machines. It is the job of knitting manager to do certain calculation for proper use of machines and production of fabric according to the demands of the customer. Your knitted fabric is made with assistance from yarn loops. Yarn of various matters is employed to generate cloth of various grammage. There is also a have to compute perfect creation of crochet equipment. Oahu is the work regarding travel manager to perform certain formula pertaining to proper using devices along with the manufacture of fabric in line with the calls for of the consumer.

Most suitable count for knitting machines

As we know needle hook has to take yarn to convert it into a loop and finally latch has to close the needle hook so that the loop is properly held by the needle hook and ultimately this helps in passing the new loop through the previously held loop. It is clear from this explanation that there should be a proper balance between needle hook size and the thickness of the yarn or filament. If the yarn is thicker than needle hook then there will a chance that the needle hook will not able to hold this loop and consequently there will be a small hole in the fabric. If the situation is reversed, means the yarn is thinner than the size of the needle hook then the fabric produced will look like a net. Both situations are not wanted. This situation demands a balance between needle hook size and count of yarn. It is worth to note that needle hook size depends upon the machine gauge. Furthermore for different garments, fabric of different grammage is required. Every time knitter has to decide about the yarn count. There are many ways for the selection of proper count. In the following lines we will discuss most common methods to select count for different machines of different gauge. It is also important to note that selection of yarn counts also depends upon the machine manufactures and type of machines, like, single and double knit machine. However a general guideline will be given hereunder. As a thumb rule knitting experts prefer to use such knitting machine whose gauges is near to count of yarn (English count) i.e. For 20-gauge machines most suitable yarn count is 20s. This rule has certain limitations, like, for 28gauge yarn of 26s to 30s is more suitable. But for very fine counts this rule is not applicable and also machines have maximum gauge 32. Normally fine counts are not used as such rather they are made double, like count 60s double, which means that net count is near to 30s. And this 60 double count is suitable for 30-gauge machine. To solve this problem some authors have suggested following formulas.

For single Knitting Machine

= Suitable count = G*G/18

For Double knitting machine

Suitable count= G*G/8.4 Where G is the gauge of knitting machine Some knitting machine manufacturers suggest a range of yarn count for their machine. There is another way to solve this problem and that is to take help from old records. Every firm is producing many types of fabrics and on the basis of the experience they develop a database for ready reference. In the following line we give a table for guidance (table is under construction). One can get a ready reference from the table to produce the fabric of certain grammage. We are also giving expected width of fabric after wet processing. This table can provide just a reference. Knitters have to decide by themselves after doing a trial production, since there are many more factors, which can affect yarn and gauge selection process.

Knitting Machine Parameters

Every knitting machine is made to fulfil certain demands of the customer. There are a number of characteristics of the machine which are intimated by the machine manufacturers while delivering the machine to customers/users. It is helpful for the user to be well aware about these parameters. Furthermore machine specifications are given in different unit. We will explain these parameters and will also give the conversion factors to convert parameters from one system to another.

Machine Gauge
As per Oxford Dictionary the word gauge is a noun and as well as verb. It is used to measure levels of anything or for an instrument to measure width, length or height of anything. In knitting it is used to express the number of needles in a unit length of the needle bed. This needle bed may flat or circular. In double knit circular machine it is used for cylinder and as well as dial. Generally gauge is defined as number of needles per inch. According to German standard DIN 60917 (Iyer et al1995) alphabet E is used to denote knitting machine gauge. E = Number of needles, 1 inch (25.4 mm)

Machine Pitch
As per German DIN 62125 (Iyer et al1995) the notation gauge is to be avoided in the future. Rather they prefer to use notation pitch for comparison purpose. Machine Pitch means the distance between the centers of two neighboring needles. It is denoted with small t. It is given in mm.

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Select the correct Yarn count for Interlock fabric

In my post I will introduce you with some equations, with which we can select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are vary for fabric types.
Interlock

Say, the require GSM is 220 Yarn count = (-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56 = (-0.206) X (220) + 80.56 = -45.32 + 80.56 = 35.24 So, to knit 220 gsm Interlock fabric we need yarn count 35.24/s

rn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design. el Me rchandising, Learn Fashion design.

Select the correct Yarn count for 1X1 Rib fabric:

In my post I will introduce you with some equations, with which we can select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are vary for fabric types. 1X1 Rib Say, the require GSM is 200 Yarn count = (-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57 = (-0.123) X (200) + 54.57 = -24.6 + 54.57 = 29.97 So, to knit 200 gsm 1X1 Rib fabric we need yarn count 29.97/s

Select the correct Yarn count for Lycra 1x1 Rib fabric
In my post I will introduce you with some equations, with which we can select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are vary for fabric types. Lycra 1x1 Rib Say, the require GSM is 220 Yarn count = (-0.119) X (GSM) + 59.12 = (-0.119) X (220) + 59.12 = -26.18 + 59.12 = 32.94 So, to knit 220 gsm Lycra 1x1 Rib fabric we need yarn count 32.94/s

Select the correct Yarn count for Lycra 2x2 Rib fabric
In my post I will introduce you with some equations, with which we can select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are vary for fabric types. Lycra 2x2 Rib Say, the require GSM is 220 Yarn count = (-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62 = (-0.108) X (220) + 56.62 = -23.76 + 56.62 = 32.86 So, to knit 220 gsm Lycra 2x2 Rib fabric we need yarn count 32.86/s n Apparel

Select the correct Yarn count for Double Lacoste fabric:

In my this post I will introduce you with some equations, with which we can select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are vary for fabric types. Double Lacoste Say, the require GSM is 220 Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36 = (-0.167) X (220) + 64.36 = -36.74 + 64.36 = 27.62 So, to knit 220 gsm Double Lacoste fabric we need yarn count 27.62/s

Select the correct Yarn count for single jersey fabric

In my this post I will introduce you with some equations, with which we can select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are vary for fabric types. Single Jersey Say, the require GSM is 160 Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22 = (-0.141) X (160) + 50.22 = -22.58 + 50.22 = 27.66 So, to knit 160 gsm single jersey fabric we need yarn count 27.66/s

Some Common Fabric (Knit) Problem

Common Problem of Fabric (Knitting & Dyeing)
1. Shade Variations. 2. Color Spot 3. Creased Mark 4. Soil Mark 5. Running Shade 6. Dia Problem 7. GSM Problem 8. Shrinkage Problem 9. Twisting 10. Fabric Hole 11. Sat-up 12. Slab Yarn 13. Foreign Yarn 14. Oil Spot 15. Needle Mark / Ass Mark

16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

Sinker Mark Squeezer Mark. Pat-ta Naps Dead Fiber

Creased Mark:
If we use mix needle in the knitting machine then we will found this problem, also if we take long time before start squeezer or take long time in the dyeing winch than normal period then creased mark may arise. Also if the fabric stay in the winch at idle position of the machine or stop the machine for power failure or any other reason then Running shade can be arise. Others hands the poor scouring is caused of running shade.

A skewed of Bias:
Condition where courses are not square with wale lines on knit.

Barrie:
Occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.

Birdseye:
Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side.

Bowing:
Usually caused by finishing in knits the course lines lie in an arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics.

Broken color pattern:

Usually caused by color yarn out of place on frame.

Crease Streak :
Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.

Drop stitches:
Results from malfunctioning needle or Jack. Will appear as holes, or missing stitches.

End out :
Occurs in warp knit. Results from knitting Machine continuing to run with missing end.

Hole:
Caused by broken needle.

Missing Yarn:
Occurs in warp knit. Results from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Mixed Yarn:
Occurs in warp knit. Result from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Needle Line:
Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually vertical line.

Pin Holes:

Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through stenter frame. Major if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in the finished product.

Press-Off:
When all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad press-off occurs. Bad press-off usually start a new roll of fabric.

Runner:
Usually caused by broken needle, will appear as vertical line. (Most of the machines have a stopping device to stop machine when a needle breaks)

Sanforize Pucker:
From ueeven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy of puckering when spreads on cutting table. Difficult to detect during inspection on inspection Machine with fabric under roller tension.

Slub (knit Fabric) :

Usually caused by thick or heavy place in yarn, or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.

Straying End:
Caused when an end of yarn breaks and the loose end strays and is knit irregularly into another area.

Identification of knitted fabric defects

It is very natural that in the course of knitting fabrics, imperfections occur. The imperfections may be the result of faulty yarn, knitting machine malfunction or improper finishing. The defects in knitting construction are considered in terms of appearance and nature. Various Types of Defects in Knitted Fabrics

Bands and Streaks There are different kinds of bands and streaks that may occur in knitting. Some of the popular defects are as follows: Barrie Effect: A Barrie effect has the appearance of a stripe with shaded edges. It is horizontal in weft knits and vertical in warp knits. The barrie effect is caused by various factors like: Lack of uniformity in yarn size, color or luster. Mush tension on the yarns during knitting one section of the fabric. Uneven shrinkage or other finishing defects. Bowing: A line or a design may curve across the fabric. This bowing is the distortion caused by faulty take-up mechanism on the knitting machine. Streak or Stop Mark: A straight horizontal streak or stop mark in the knitted fabric is due to the difference in tension in the yarns caused by the machine being stopped and then restarted. Skewing: Skewing effect is seen as a line or design running at a slight angle across the cloth.

 Needle Lines: Needle lines or vertical lines are due to a wale that is either tighter or looser than the adjacent ones. This is caused by needle movement due to a tight fit in its slot or a defective sinker.

Costing tips for the knit Items.

Leael Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.

Before start costing 1) 2) Fabrication: You must take clear idea regarding the fabrication before taking the order from the buyer / buying house. After then, you must ensure that, you have strong source of the followings fabric. Size spec: Make sure that, you have got the correct/latest size spec with the measurement of all the sizes, which will be ordered. Many times we see that, PO sheet has come with new bigger size which was not during the costing.
know that, color wise order qty ratio.

3)

Fabric color: Try to know that, how many colors the style has & also try to
Take information regarding approximate order qty.

4) Qty:

5) Shipment date:

Asked buyer for the shipment date & check with your production department that, they have enough space for shipped out the followings qty within the require ship date Or tell your possible date.

6) Test requirement: Let you know that, the order has any test or not. 7) L/c payments term: Take a previous l/c copy from them & discuss with your commercial people regarding all the terms along with payment terms.
get a confirmation from the buyer that, who will inspected the goods. If third party then who will pay their charges.

8) Inspection: Pls 9)

GSP: Pls confirm that, buyer has need the GSP or not.

Calculating Fabric Consumption

1)
body fabric consumption at first. If possible calculate it after make the pattern. Be confirmed regarding the dia. Calculate the consumption with adding + 5 gsm extra which fabric is sells in kg (s/j, pique, rib etc). Or reduce 2 (in width) from the both side which are in yards (tricot, taffeta etc). Moreover, if the garments are wash garments then make sure that, the pattern has the wash allowance. Calculate the rib consumption carefully because sometimes the garments have rib at cuff opening & bottom hem. Some people mistakenly do the consumption considering one cuff.

Body Consumption: Calculate the

2) 3) 4) 5)

Rib:

Neck tape: Calculate the consumption of neck tape. Appliqu & others fabric:
appliqu & any other fabric. Make sure that, you are not missing any

Estimate the wastage: Normally we add 9% wastage for the knit items. However, its may vary depends on how many process the garments have. If it is with only front chest print then 9% is ok but if with all over/rotary print, with heavy wash etc then you must increase the wastage. Moreover, if the garments with pigments dye then add minimum 25 to 30% wastage because in this pigment dye garments reject percentage is very high.
Others item

1)

Print: If the garments have print then make sure that, you have a clear
art work of it. Check that there clearly mentioned the print quality, dimension & placement. Send the art work to your printers for a better price idea. Also let you know from your printers regarding the difficulties of the followings print. Many times we found that, buyer has asked for so many type/kind prints in same body which is so difficult for production. Such as, if buyer asked for Flock + discharge & foil print in at the same artwork then it is not possible for production.

2) 3) 4)

Discuss with your embroidery supplier regarding the embroidery & take price quotation.

Embroidery:

Wash: Take the wash price quotation from washing factory. Test: Confirm the charges of test from the testing company.

Accessories & trims

Pls try to Calculate the price of accessories individually it will reduce your percentage of mistake. Pls find below the list of some accessories item 1) Sewing thread: Confirm that, which thread you need 100% cotton, spun polyester or filaments. Then ensure the count 50/2 or 40/2 or any other denier. Its may vary on fabrications. Regarding the pigment dye garments we normally used cotton grey color cotton thread. Calculate the sewing thread consumption part by part & add require wastage percentage.

2) Labels: Take the quotation from your supplier for the entire woven & satin/paper label. 3) Tape: Calculate the consumption of tape if it has, such as Velvet, herringbone or canvas etc. 4) Elastic: Make sure which denier & width it need. Then take the quotation from supplier. 5) Zipper: If the garments have zippers then confirm that, from where you will purchase that. Many time the logo zipper need to import the mold from abroad. Make sure the zipper quality, such metal, nylon or vislon zipper. Check the zipper measurement from your production department and get prices from your zipper supplier.

6) Button: Take the button price from your supplier if the garments have it. 7) Inter lignin: Calculate the inter lignin price if the garments need. 8) Patch or badge: Calculate the patch or badge or others metal item if the garments have. 9) Finishing item: Tissue paper, silica gel, hang tag, barcode sticker, back board, h/tag string, scotch tape, security tag calculate the prices of these item. 10) Hanger: Take the quotation of hanger. 11) Poly: Make the measurement of poly. Confirm the quality & with adhesive or not. 12) Carton: Find out the carton measurement & take the prices from carton supplier along with top, bottom & divider. 13) Gum tape: Confirm the gum tape quality that, whether it is normal transparent or with any logo. Then take the price quotation. 14) PP belt: Take the price quotation of pp belt if buyer asked it. 15) Carton sticker: Take quotation for sticker. Commercial cost

Normally we add 3% of total purchase (Fabric cost+ other item cost + Accessories cost) as commercial cost if the L/c payments terms is as sight. If the l/c is 60 days deferred then you can add 7.5% additional cost of total price and it will be 15% for 90 day deferred. CM (Cost of making) Calculate the CM after discussion with your production department. Its vary depends on require machine qty & output qty. Profit Normally we add 20% of CM cost with the price as profit. earn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.

Knitting price of circular knit fabric.

Today I'm posting a price list of circular knit fabric in total 63 option. I collect this price list from a very large knitting factory which is situated at Jamirdia, Masterbari, Valuka, Mymensingh, Bangladesh. It's name NRG. All the prices of this list in Bangladeshi taka (per kg). You can easily convert it to US$ dollar by dividing with 72 to 75. Because current dollar conversion rate is moving in between 72 to 75 taka. That's mean US $1 = 72 taka.

Sl. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Fabric Type Single Jersey (M/C Dia 19-38) Single Jersey (M/C Dia 40-48) Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Slub Yarn Single Jersey Slub Yarn S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 18-40) S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 42-48) S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 18-40) S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 42-48)

Machine Gauge 24 24 28 24 20 24 20 24 24 20 20

Yarn Count 20/s-30/s 20/s-30/s 26/s-30/s 34/s-40/s 16/s-18/s

Knitting charge Per Kg in Taka 10 11 13 14-16 16-25 15-20 18-20 20-30 28-30 25-30 35-40

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63

Heavy Jersey (2 ply) Half Feeder Lycra S/Jersey H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) P.K / Lacost P.K / Lacost P.K / Lacost P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 1X1 Normal RIB 1X1 Normal RIB Yarn Dyed (1X1) Stripe Rib Lycra RIB (Half Feeder) Lycra RIB (Full Feeder) (2X1) RIB (2X2) RIB (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib Plain Interlock Plain Interlock Plain Interlock Interlock Feeder Stripe Interlock H.F Ly. Attachement Interlock D / Needle Mash/Flat Back Rib Three Thread Fleece (French Terry) Cross Terry Three Thread Lycra Fleece ( French Terry) Two Thread Fleece Two Thread Lycra Terry Engineering Stripe (4 Color) S/J Engineering Stripe (6 Color) S/J Engineering Stripe 2Ply Engineering Stripe 2Ply Engineering Stripe (4 Color) P.K/Lacost Engineering Stripe (6 Color) P.K/Lacost Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (H/ Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K) Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (F/ Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K) Eng. Stripe Flat Back Rib Eng. Stripe Terry Engineering Stripe (6 Color) RIB Engineering Stripe (6 Color) Interlock Engineering Stripe (6 Color) Lycra RIB / Interlock Engineering Stripe 2X1 F. Feeder Lycra Rib Engineering Stripe 2X1 H. Feeder Lycra Rib Pointal Rib (Normal)

20 24 24 24 24/28 24/28 24 24 24 20 28 24 20 24 20 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 22/24 22/24 28 24 24 24

40/2-26/2 30/s-40/s

30/s-34/s 36/s-40/s

30/s-24/s 30/s-20/s 34/s-26/s

30/s-20/s 32/s-36/s 30/s-20/s 30/s-26/s 30/s-40/s 30/s-20/s 30/s-20/s 30/s-24/s 30/s-24/s UP TO 32/s 34/s-40/s 40/s-50/s

30/s-40/s

24 24 20 16 24 24 24 24 24/20

15-18 22-24 30-35 40-45 28 30 38-40 48-50 15 18 20 25-30 30-35 30-40 45-50 15 18 25-30 25-30 35-40 25-28 28-30 35 45 18 20 28-36 35-40 35-40 25-30 60-80 18 20-22 35-40 20-22 35-40 100-110 120-130 130-150 160-170 120-125 130-140 220-230 240-250 300 180-220 170-180 180-190 250-300 350-400 350 70-100