Transmission Wire Harnesses by Rostra Transmission

Rostra Precision Controls Inc. proudly introduced a new and innovative line of internal and external transmission wire harnesses in 1997. Since then, our product offering has expanded to over 35 part numbers covering a wide range of domestic and import vehicles. We drew on our vast experience and knowledge of cruise control application to create the highest quality, most durable, easiest to install harnesses available to today's technicians. The transmission wiring harness is one of the most critical components within today's complicated electronically controlled units. Electronic signals control nearly every function within the transmission. The wire harness conveys these signals to the solenoids and sensors. Any interruption will result in failure. We urge all technicians to replace the harness and all solenoids with each complete overhaul. As with all Rostra products, we manufacture these units in the United States under strict QS-9000 quality requirements. Each harness is 100% tested for fit, form and function before leaving our facility. These procedures insure that you will receive the finest parts available for a quality-rebuilt transmission. Our Engineering staff has made several product enhancements for improved durability and longer life. We have also consolidated many original equipment part numbers to reduce inventory-carrying costs and simplify the order placing procedure. These consolidations assure the shop owner that they are going to receive the correct part each time they place an order. We offer a broad line of internal wire harness assemblies, external wire harness, wire harness repair kits and connectors. Ask for Rostra by name.

Wire Harness Product Listing

350-0014

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350-9000

We appreciate and welcome all new opportunities! Rostra Precision Controls is capable of designing and manufacturing many different types of wire harnesses. If you have a specialized need or a recommendation for a new product, please contact us using the form below to discuss your specific needs with one of our engineers.

Contact Rostra Transmission Technical Support 700 R4 Transmission - Overdrive Evolution

For 25 Years, GM's 700-R4 And Its 4L60 Descendents Have Shifted Most Of The General's RWD Cars. Here's How An Econo Trans Spawned In The Dark Days Of The Energy Crisis Evolved Into A Rugged And Reliable Unit.
By Marlan Davis, Photography by B&M, General Motors, Marlan Davis, TCI Hot Rod Magazine, February, 2009

6 GM's TH700-R4 four-speed automatic-overdrive transmission and its derivatives have nearly become the universal favorite of hot rodders. Properly built, a good 700 is capable of withstanding at least 450 lb-ft of torque. But that hasn't always been the case. With the help of the experts at B&M and TCI, we traced the 700's initially checkered past and bring you up to date on some of the countless improvements incorporated over the years as GM continually refined the basic design to keep up with the increasing output of the engines it was installed behind. In the Beginning The 700-R4 was first introduced in the '82 Corvette. On paper, its specs looked pretty good: The trans had lower First and Second gears (3.06 and 1.63, respectively) than other automatics, its lockup torque converter offered potential fuel-mileage gains, and the 0.7 overdrive decreased the overall drive ratio by 30 percent. But the original design was not considered a strong transmission, with failures behind even a mild 350 not uncommon. The trans was so weak that in its original setup, GM deliberately calibrated it to kick out of lockup and high gear under full-throttle, top-end conditions to avoid burning it up. The original versions had only downsized, 27-spline input shafts, one of many possible and common failure points. By 1984, 700-R4s intended for use behind small-block Chevy V-8s began to receive beefy, 30spline input shafts similar to those found on classic TH350 and TH400 transmissions. From 1984 to 1987, the most failure-prone internal parts, from the ring-gear to the oil-pump housing, were upgraded. An auxiliary valvebody was added in October 1986. Finally, on performance cars like the Corvette, additional internal lubrication improvements permitted the trans to survive in high-gear, full-throttle, top-end conditions. Many of the improvements can be retrofitted into the earlier, weak transmissions, but the 27-spline versions need so many new parts that it's more cost-effective to swap in a later core. However, it is worthwhile to upgrade the later 30-spline versions to Corvette/IROC-level internals, if they're not already so equipped.

GM's 700-R4 trans and its descendents have become the hot rodder's favorite street automat

The 700-R4/4L60 uses a TV cable that attaches to the right rear of the case's passenger si

Enter The 4L60E The next big change was in 1993 with the introduction of the 4L60E in pickup trucks, vans, and SUVs. "E" derivatives are entirely controlled by the computer via electronic solenoids installed on the valvebody.E-type transmissions require a computer to function-either the original factory GM ECM or available aftermarket standalone solutions-but now shift quality can be easily dialed in without having to go into the trans itself. Also, with the computer controlling line pressure, E transmissions eliminate the TV cable and its associated bracket geometry and adjustment issues. Not all '93 vehicles got the 4L60E. Rear-wheel-drive cars continued to use the 700-R4, but in keeping with GM's new nomenclature, the carryover trans was renamed the 4L60 (without the E). Other than the name, the 4L60 is essentially the same trans as a similar-vintage 700-R4. All GM transmissions use the new identification system: the first digit is the number of forward gears (4), the letter indicates whether the trans is intended for front-wheel-drive (T for transverse) or rear-wheel-drive (L for longitudinal) applications, and the last two numbers provide a guide to the unit's relative torque capacity (60, in this case)

compared with other GM transmissions. If both nonelectronically controlled and electronically controlled versions of an otherwise similar transmission design are offered, an E suffix (for electronic) is appended to the designator. Rear-wheel-drive cars received the 4L60E starting in 1994. Although many internal mechanical components interchange, the cases, electronic controls, and valvebodies are so different that it's not practical to upgrade a non-E to an E (or vice versa) Many internal electronic changes occurred on 4L60E transmissions between 1993 and 1996. These included the introduction of a pulse-width-modulated torque-converter lockup function on some models starting around 1995. This smoothes out the converter lockup function by pulsing the apply function using a PWM solenoid. There are several unique evolutions on this system with matching solenoids and electrical switches. Although not really important for performance use, it is of concern if you just need a replacement trans with full functionality for a late-model and want to make sure everything works as intended.

Here are some common four-bolt TH700-R4 extension housings, from left: two-wheel-drive tru

You can identify a 700-R4/ 4L60 by its square, 16-bolt pan. Stock pans vary in depth and f

Three-Piece Case In 1996, with the 4L60E in use for most rear-drive applications and with new engine designs on the drawing board, GM began moving to a common main case with a bolt-on bellhousing. Previously, there were just two separate case patterns: a metric case for 60-degree V-6 engines and the classic Chevy case that fit traditional big- and small-block V-8s, straight Chevy L6s, and V6-90 engines. The move to a separate bellhousing let one common core fit a variety of different engine families and also opened up the interesting possibility of aftermarket adapter bellhousings to fit oddball or niche classic engines, such as Keisler Engineering has done with its Mopar conversion kits. Other changes coincided with the move to separate bellhousings. The input-shaft tip configuration was revised, although the overall shaft diameter and spline-count still remained at 30. When retrofitting, the new spline tip requires a corresponding torque converter to mate with the revised shaft. GM also changed the tailhousing from a four-bolt to a six-bolt design. The 4l65E Stock 4L60Es are rated at 360 lb-ft of torque. By 2001, engine output had increased to the point that further internal modifications were needed for Corvette, Hummer, and some other applications. The uprated transmission-in stock form rated to withstand up to 380 lb-ft-is known as the 4L65E (RPO M32). There were significant improvements, including five-pinion planetaries, a higher-capacity input housing, and an induction-hardened input-shaft assembly. Beginning in 2002, many of the technologies from the 4L65 applications that added durability were incorporated into the 4L60, including more robust bushings and bearings. Many of the other durability-enhancing parts can also be swapped into earlier 4L60 transmissions. The 4l70E Classified as the 4L70E, the ultimate production evolution of the original 700-R4 trans family is used in selected '07 trucks and includes further refinements over the 4L65E. The 4L70 is a variation of the fivepinion 4L65, with additional strengthening in the output shaft and reaction internal gear to handle increased engine torque. It is doubtful that GM will continue to upgrade the trans any further, as it will be phased out once the new six-speed automatic production lines are ramped up.

Beginning in 1996, GM transitioned to new cases with separate bellhousings. Changing the b

A good valvebody-recalibration kit plus a supplementary professional-grade upgrade kit lik

On the surrounding pages we've illustrated some of the most important improvements and variations, many of which can be used to upgrade earlier transmissions. But there are so many details that we can only scratch the surface here. If you really want to get into what makes this trans tick and get the lowdown on all the changes, fixes, and improvements, the best sources are Automatic Transmission Service Group (ATSG) Techtran and upgrade handbooks available directly from ATSG's Web site as well as on eBay 1 Planetary Carriers Planetaries are used both forward (the input planetary carrier) and at the rear (the reaction planetary carrier). Early failure-prone planetary carriers should be upgraded to at least the improved design with batwing washers (circa 1985). The improved four-pinion input carrier carries GM PN 24226173 and bolts in to any trans. The best four-pinion reaction carrier was introduced at about the same time for selected high-perf applications like Corvettes and IROCs. Besides the batwing washers, this carrier also adds a pinion oiling system with internal passages. Even better-although much more expensive-are the late fivepinion carriers introduced on the 4L65E, available from both GM and aftermarket sources.

In 2001, GM introduced the 4L65E on selected high-perf, high-load applications. One of the

Note the small lubrication holes in the PN 24228402 "Corvette" four-pinion carrier. An oil

2 Reaction Sun Shell And Input Shaft The reaction sun gear shell helps apply both Second and Reverse gears and is a key part for holding all the internals together. It has been a major failure item since the 700's inception. Originally, the Low and Reverse clutch roller race rode against the shell, separated only by a thin thrust washer. Aftermarket beast shells became available made from thicker material around the neck. A Torrington bearing replaced the spindly thrust washer, and better roller races became available as well. Finally, starting in 2001, GM completely redesigned the sun shell. The thrust washer was eliminated, and a new fully rollerized thrust bearing was added to the reaction carrier shaft and front carrier ring gear. The new-design sun gear shell (GM PN 24229604), reaction carrier shaft (PN 24222756), and sun shell thrust bearing (PN 24217328) will back-fit as a complete assembly.

The original reaction shaft and input gear (left) were prone to wear in the shaft bushing

Sun shells, from left: original stock with thin thrust washer and stock roller race; thick

3 Input Clutch Housing (below left and center) Over the years, both GM and the aftermarket have upgraded the input housing. The material thickness was increased, the input shaft hardened, and the housing depth slightly increased to accommodate additional 3-4 clutch packs.

TH700s first used a weak 27-spline input shaft (left). Starting in 1984, V-8/V6-90 version

On stock input housings, cracks often form near the female splines, which could lead to co

In 1987, GM changed from a steel apply piston with a check ball in the housing (left) to a

4 Reverse Input Housing (above right) The reverse input housing engages Reverse, but it also supports the 2-4 band. Check the drum surface carefully for signs of wear. Because of the nonadjustability of the band that contacts the drum, there is no way to resurface the drum without having adjustment problems or having the drum crack if returned to service. Drums manufactured starting midway through the '86 model year are slightly thicker in the 2-4 band apply area, which improves 2-4 band performance. 5 Front Pump Overall pump design has been continually upgraded to improve hydraulic pressure. There are three major factory pump designs: one for the early small input shaft and torque converter, one for the '84-'96 large input shaft and torque converter, and one for '97-and-up transmissions. The early style had only a 7-vane pump; the second design (usually cast 732 on the cover) had a 10-vane rotor set, and the beefy, late third-design has 13 vanes. There are subvariants that may affect interchange, but in general, the '84-'95 10-vane pump can replace a 7-vane pump by plugging its auxiliary valvebody port and changing the reverse drum and torque converter. Installing the 13-vane pump in place of an early 7- or 10-vane pump requires considerable machining to back-fit as a complete assembly. Oil-pump performance may be further improved by modifying control orifice size, altering spool valve land shapes, and adjusting spool valve diameters to meet specific operational requirements. For example, boost-valve pressure-regulator components installed in the pump cover regulate boost-line pressure throughout the trans. Up to a point, higher pressure is better.

It is possible to install upgraded rotor sets into existing pump housings. The 13-vane rot

The pump slide spring fits into the pump body. The early single-piece slide spring is no g

The TH700/4L60 (left group) uses different pressure regulators than a 4L60E (right group).

6 Valvebody There are several major valvebody configurations. The early '82-'87 configuration had no auxiliary valvebody; the torque converter clutch (TCC) lockup function was actuated hydraulically at a set pressure without computer input. Although this makes retrofit easy into early vehicles, the first-generation valvebodies often have leaky, low-capacity 1-2 and 3-4 shift valves that produce inconsistent shift quality. The late '87-'93 second-design valvebody solved the problems. It added an additional auxiliary valvebody to fix a Park/Drive bang/clunk problem. A new abuse valve smoothed out rock-shifting, helping cars get out of snow and mud easier. A new one-piece 1-2 shift valve improved consistency, reduced leakage, and permitted downshifting from Second to First gear at fairly high rpm. The 3-4 shift valve was redesigned to permit WOT 3-4 upshifts. B&M offers the improved WOT 3-4 upshift kit under PN 70249. Most second-generation valvebodies have a plugged TCC hydraulic lockup port, as GM transferred TCC lockup control directly to the engine computer. The early valve can be installed in place of the port plug to permit locking up the TCC via hydraulic pressure through the '88 models. From '89-'93, the former TCC hydraulic lockup port is completely blocked off, and no valve can be retrofitted. Instead, a computer or electric toggle switch is needed to actuate TCC lockup. Various coordinated aftermarket shift-improver kits are also available to recalibrate the shift feel on pre-4L60E valvebodies. The 4L60E phased in a valvebody controlled by the computer acting through electric solenoids in lieu of shift valves. There is no interchange between E and non-E valvebodies.

A typical 700-R4 valvebody, showing the TCC hydraulic lockup, 3-4 shift valve, 2-3 shift v

An improved throttle-valve sleeve was used on some high-perf apps. It allowed the trans to

Rather than messing with the valvebody or governor weights to change shift quality, on a 4

Servo Assembly The 2-4 servo assembly applies the 2-4 band. Upgraded servo assemblies have more surface area and volume to increase the holding force and yield firmer shifts. The best GM servo was used on C4/C5 Corvettes, as well as '93-and-later Camaros and Firebirds equipped with LT1 and LS1 engines. TCI sells the Corvette servo assembly under PN 376003. Aftermarket Super Hold servos are available with even more holding power. Changing the servo should be coordinated with valvebody recalibration, all matched to the intended application. Production inner (second apply) and outer (fourth apply) servo pistons can even be mixed and matched to fine-tune the feel. Governor Valvebody mods contained in typical aftermarket shift-improver kits can alter individual shift points, but playing with the governor weights allows the end user to change all shift points equally. The 4L60E no longer has a governor.

The best stock governor is the Corvette-style with pointed weights (Sonnax PN 730. The Vet

Typical servo assemblies, from left: GM standard, light-heavy-duty, and Corvette, with (ar

Complete transmissions upgraded with good heavy-duty parts are available from reputable af

Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge Four-Speed Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Disabling
Craig Sherman's guide to fixing torque converter lockup problems - Version 2
Torque converter shudder is a very common issue with the A604 transmission. Previously I had designed a circuit to disable lock up operation with solves the shudder problem. You can see that article on this page, below. The only drawback to my initial design was that fuel economy suffered as well as transmission fluid temperature

increased. I now have a new version that will eliminate the shudder, and still allow lock up to engage eliminating the drawbacks. After much testing I discovered what really causes the torque converter shudder on or about 38 MPH. The torque converter lock up clutch is not getting enough hydraulic pressure to fully engage, and it slips at 38 MPH. The solenoid that controls it is continuously pulse modulated on and off keeping the average pressure low. It never allows full pressure when the speed of the vehicle is below 42 MPH. It then slips, and shudders. This usually occurs after the TC clutch is worn a bit. This symptom goes away at about 42 MPH or so when the computer decides to keep the solenoid on without pulsing it. The occurrence of this symptom is influenced by load, temperature, and wear of the TC clutch and other transmission components. This issue is caused by the Transmission Controller itself. Its behavior is contrary to what is described in the Tech Tran manual. Full lockup is never achieved below 42 MPH. It is a bug in the firmware, as confirmed by Mopar Tech Support. I confirmed that the transmission computer in my vehicle never engages full pressure to the lock up clutch until 42 MPH or so using a scope. I spoke to several people at Mopar about this, and they said it can be solved by a firmware update to the transmission computer. This option is not readily available to most people since a lot of dealers no longer have the necessary equipment to do it. It will also most likely cost you some money if your dealer happens to still have the necessary equipment. (I spent a lot of time on this issue, and finally gave up on the dealers in my area.) My new circuit eliminates the shudder issue without a firmware update. The theory is simple. When ALL of the following conditions are met, the solenoid that controls the lockup is turned full on (not pulsed).

1. Transmission is in third or fourth gear. ( OD pressure switch is closed ) 2. Lockup enable switch mounted on dashboard is ON. 3. Either a pulsed or constant PWM signal is present on the LU/LR solenoid output of the transmission computer.
When driving at speeds between 38 MPH and 42 MPH (or so) the LU/LR solenoid output of the computer is pulsing on and off. This is detected by my circuit which then disconnects the LU/LR solenoid from its normal port on the computer and parallels it to the OD solenoid output port (that solenoid is conveniently being held full on while in 3rd or 4thgear) which is NOT pulsed. The lockup clutch is now given full pressure, and no slip. You may actually feel it engage, just like another shift point. Note to the techies out there: The computer is always using PWM to control solenoid current. The pulsing I refer to is the PWM being turned on and off. This can be easily verified with a scope. NEVER ground any of the solenoid wires as it will burn it out. The solenoid coils are 2.5 ohms. Building this circuit will require cutting into the harness that plugs into the transmission computer. You also must be willing to build and install this circuit entirely at your own risk. Neither Allpar nor the Author cannot be held liable for any damage or inoperability you may experience. This circuit has worked fine for me for two years now. I cannot guarantee you will have the same results. This circuit was built and installed on a 1994 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3L V6. All of the parts for the circuit can be purchased at Radio Shack. The relays are 12V DPDT type. You should have a good understanding of electronics to build this, or be really brave. If you need help, find someone who have some electronics experience. I highly recommend that you read my previous article (which follows this one) so you can understand the theory of operation, and will understand why a third relay is used with only its coil connected. (I am sure the techie people out there will be asking) Simply connect all parts according to the schematic below. I recommend that all connections be soldered and heat shrink tubing used for all splices. Put the relays in a water tight box. The switch to enable/disable lockup is mounted on the dashboard with a simple toggle switch. When the switch is in the off position, lock up operation is prevented. The circuit behaves like my previous version. With the switch on, lock up is enabled, with no partial lockup. (partial lockup is the cause of the shudder)

You may occasionally notice some harsh shift symptoms when the transmission is up shifting. I have investigated this, and found out that it is normal and nothing to worry about. When conditions are just right, the computer may lock up the torque converter while in third gear when driving around 25 MPH or so. If throttle position is not changed and the vehicle eventually reaches 32 MPH or so, it will go into fourth gear while the torque converter is locked up. There will be a noticeable bump since there is no fluid coupling or slipping clutch in the torque converter. Without my circuit, you never notice this since the torque converter never fully locks up in third gear. This new behavior is not bad, but actually good since nothing is slipping any more. Good luck and if you have any questions, you can contact me by clicking here. How To Disable Torque Converter Lock Up For The A604 (original version) From what I have been reading, torque converter lock up shudder seems to be quite a common issue for A604 transmissions. I had it happen to me as well, a year after I had the torque converter replaced. It was out of warranty, and I was not going to pay another $400 to have it replaced yet again. I went through all the usual methods people try to solve it, such as changing the fluid, adding friction modifiers, etc, but they were all temporary fixes at best. I asked several mechanics at different transmission shops if there was a way to disable torque converter lockup on the A604, and they all said it was impossible. They all said that the computer would detect it and go into "limp mode." Having an electronics and computer background, I could not accept that as a final answer. I knew that there must be a way. I knew nothing at the time about the inner workings of this particular transmission, other than what I have read on allpar.com. I knew that there were solenoids. I got out my meter and started probing around. I found an eight pin connector on top of the solenoid pack, and started to check it out. Using my meter, I found that there were four solenoids, and three switches with "pull up" resistors inside the pack. At this point, I assumed that one of the solenoids must be for lock up control. One by one, I disconnected each solenoid (one at a time) and took the vehicle for a test drive. I did this for each of the four solenoids. Unfortunately, just as the mechanics told me, the transmission went into "limp mode" when any of the solenoids were disconnected. I did not want to give up, so I ordered the "Chrysler A604 Techtran Manual" from the ATSG. I found this great resource on theallpar.com web site.

This technical manual was the best investment I had ever made. Using the manual, I designed a circuit to disable lockup of the torque converter, and it has worked perfectly for me for about a year now. For those interested in the theory of how my circuit works, there is an explanation at the end of this article. If you wish to try it, do it at your own risk. I highly recommend that you have a transmission cooler installed before you do this. When the torque converter does not lock up, additional heat is generated. Your gas mileage may go down. I found the mileage loss to be negligible. You must also be willing to hack into the eight pin connector that plugs into the top of the solenoid pack. It will require cutting three wires. You will splice into two of them (attach an additional wire to the existing wire) and interrupt the third. I do not recommend that you attempt this project if you do not have experience working with relays and soldering. You should know how to identify the coil wires on the relays, and the N/C, N/O, and COM connections. If you are not sure what these terms are, stop now and get someone with electrical/electronics experience to help you.

The pins on the connector you will be splicing are: 3 OD pressure switch (orange) 4 ATX 12V supply (pink or red) 7 L/R solenoid (light blue) The wiring colors listed is what I found used in my vehicle. I cannot guarantee they will be the same colors on your vehicle, but chances are they will be. It's best to take apart the connector and verify it. Below is a diagram showing pin location and numbering. This view is from looking down at the connector while it is plugged into the transmission. You are in front of the vehicle. You are looking at the wire side of the connector. You probably will want to unplug the connector and remove the plastic protective cap on it see the location of each wire. You can remove this connector with a 5/16" nut driver. Parts Needed: (2) Relays 12V SPDT, or DPDT type. Radio Shack part number 275-206 is fine. The Radio Shack relay has two sets of contacts. We will only be using one set. This relay comes with a socket. (1) project box to put it all in. (1) toggle switch to be used as a bypass for disabling the circuit. Hardware, wires and connectors will also be needed. I recommend that all connections to the relay socket be soldered. If you are using the Radio Shack relay, you will notice that each relay has two commons, two N/C connections, and two N/O connections. It's OK to connect like terminals together on the same relay. Another words, you can join both N/C contact, join each N/O contact, and connect the two commons together. This will give you a bit more redundancy. I am now going to explain how to hook it all up. It's up to you to engineer the physical placement of the relays, routing and dressing the wires, etc. Each vehicle is different, so you will have to use your best judgment. Be sure that the relays cannot get wet (seal the box you are putting them in) or let it get too hot. The two relays are going to be referred to as relay #1 and relay #2 from this point on. Relay #1 is going to be used to interrupt the LR/LU solenoid, and relay #2 is going to be used to trick the transmission computer into thinking the LR/LU solenoid is still connected when relay #1 is engaged. Each relay has two connections for its coil. I am going to be referring to each relay's coil connections as A and B. It does not matter which terminal you name A or B, but be consistent. Polarity does not matter with relay coils.

1. Cut the wire going to pin 4 (pink or red wire) of the transmission connector. Make sure you cut it at a point giving you several inches of wire left going into the connector. Prepare a piece of red wire long enough to go to your relay box. Splice all three ends together. You have now tapped into the switched 12V supply. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER SOURCE OF 12V FOR THIS PROJECT OR IT WILL NOT WORK. 2. Connect the other end of the red wire you just added to the "A" coil connection on both Relay 1, and Relay 2. 3. Prepare an orange wire long enough to get from the transmission connector to your relay box. Just as you did in step one, cut and splice this wire to pin 3 (orange wire) of the transmission connector. You have just tapped into the OD pressure switch. 4. Connect the other end of the orange wire to the "B" coil connection on Relay 1. Do not connect it to Relay 2. 5. Now comes the fun part. Cut the wire going to pin 7 (blue) of the transmission connector. Unlike the previous steps, you will not be splicing into this wire, but extending both ends. You are going to wind up with two wires going to your relay box from the point where you cut it. Prepare a yellow and a blue wire and route both of them to your relay box. Splice one end of the yellow wire to the wire going to pin 7 of the transmission connector. Splice one end of the blue wire to the wire that used to go to pin 7. You are connecting the blue wire to the wire going back to the transmission controller. Do not connect the other ends going to the relay box just yet. 6. Install a simple on/off toggle switch at a convenient location inside the vehicle. This switch is going to be the bypass, to enable normal lockup operation for highway driving. Using a blue wire connected to one terminal, and yellow on the other terminal of the toggle switch, then route both of them to your relay box. 7. At the relay box, you should now have two blue wires and two yellow wires that are not connected. Prepare a short piece of blue wire, long enough to reach from relay 1 over to relay 2. Connect one end of the short blue wire along with the other two blue wires to the "B" coil terminal of relay 2. You should now have three wires connected at the B coil terminal. You will not be using any other connections on relay 2, other than the two coil terminals. 8. Connect the other end of the short blue wire (coming from coil terminal B of relay 2) to the common connection of relay 1. If you are using the recommended Radio Shack relay, you can connect the wire to both of the common terminals on relay 1. 9. Connect both of the two remaining yellow wires to the N/C contact on relay 1. As above, if you are using the Radio Shack relay, you can join both N/C contacts together along with the two yellow wires. 10. Seal everything up, and you are done. Below is the electrical schematic. Please note for simplicity I am showing only one set of contacts of relay 1 in use.

If the bypass switch is turned on, normal lockup operation will occur. Only turn on the bypass switch if you intend to allow lockup when you are going to do highway driving. It's best to do this immediately after starting the vehicle. Please be aware that once the computer detects that the torque converter is not locking up (when the switch is off and you are driving above 38 MPH), an error code will be stored in the computer and the computer will not attempt lock up again even if you turn the switch back on. You must cycle ignition power to reset the computer to re-enable lock up. The switch can be turned off (to disable lock up) at any time if torque converter shudder occurs. I usually leave the switch in the bypass, or on position, and at the first sign of shudder, I turn it off. If you have any questions, you can send me an e-mail Theory of operation: This is quite techie. I wrote it assuming the reader has a knowledge of electronic theory and basic DC circuits. The A604 transmission controller uses four solenoids to control the transmission's functions. One of the four solenoids has two functions. It is called the LR/LU solenoid. Its first function is to engage the low/reverse clutch for first gear, and its second function is to engage torque converter lockup when not in first gear. Its second function is only available in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear. The function that it controls is decided by a hydraulic switch valve inside the transmission. If you wish to have further detail information on how all that works, refer to the ATSG Techtran Manual for the A604, available from JC Whitney. I very highly recommend this book. Each of the four solenoids has one end of its coil connected to a 12V supply. (called EATX) The computer "sinks" or grounds the other side of the solenoid's coil using PWM (pulse width modulation) to engage it. The end result is that the coil is pulsed on and off at a very high frequency (fast enough that the plunger will not vibrate.) This is used to control the average current through the coil. Each coil is only 3 ohms, and if you directly ground the switched side of the coil, you will burn it out. The 12V EATX supply to the solenoids is provided to pin 4 of the 8 pin connecter above the solenoid pack This is a switched supply, controlled by the computer via a relay. The transmission controller periodically checks the continuity of all the solenoids, about every ten seconds or so. It does this by sending a quick grounding pulse to each solenoid and looks for an inductive kickback, or spike. If it does not see any inductive kickback or spike, it assumes the solenoid being tested is open or the wire going to it is disconnected. This condition will make it go into limp mode. Limp mode is only second gear and reverse. As you can now see, we cannot simply cut the wire going to that solenoid and leave it disconnected. The computer would detect this. Also, first gear would not be available. The solution is to open the circuit for the solenoid only when we are not in first gear and somehow trick the computer into thinking that the wire is still connected. Remember, when the transmission is not in first gear, the solenoid's function becomes torque converter lock up control. I solved this problem using two relays. The first relay opens the connection to the LR/LU solenoid ONLY when the transmission is in third or fourth gear. (it does not disable lockup in second gear, more on that later) The second relay serves as a decoy to make the computer think that the solenoid is still connected. Its coil is connected to the computer all of the time so the controller thinks the solenoid is still connected when it does its continuity test. The computer sees the coil of the relay, and it has similar electrical characteristics of a solenoid. We cannot substitute a resistor for the coil since the computer actually looks for an "inductive kickback" when it checks the solenoids. The first relay is a single pole double throw type. This has two coil connections, and a common, normally closed, and normally open connections. The common and normally closed contacts are put in series with the wire for the LR/LU solenoid. When the relay is not energized, the solenoid is connected. Connect the common terminal on the relay to the wire going to the harness going to the TCU, and the N/C (normally closed) terminal to the wire coming from pin 7 (light blue) from the connector on top of the solenoid pack. The relay coil is connected with one connection going to 12 volts (switched battery) (pin 4) and the other connected to the OD(3-4) pressure switch (pin 3). When the transmission is in third or fourth gear, the pressure switch closes which grounds pin 3 as well as the other end of the coil of the first relay. This makes the relay pull in and open the connection to the LR/LU solenoid, thereby preventing lock up. The second relay's coil is connected with one end going to 12 volts (switched battery pin 4) and the other end connected to the wire going to the computer that controls the solenoid. (the wire that used to go to pin 7) (Please note that the wire going to the computer was previously interrupted by relay 1. The coil wire needs to be connected to the common contact on the relay 1. You will wind up with two connections at that point. ) Do not make any other connections to this relay. ONLY the coil is being used. You may be wondering about second gear. The transmission computer is programmed to allow torque converter lock up in second gear only if the engine is excessively hot. In all my years of owning my vehicle, this has never

happened. If the transmission controller does want to do lock up in second gear for example you are pulling a trailer up a hill, chances are that it will not shudder since the engine RPM will be quite high which would increase the line pressure eliminating any shudder. When you install this circuit, the transmission controller will detect that the torque converter is not locking up. It will not go into limp mode. It will store a code in the TCU indicating loss of lockup control. This is code 38, and is normal. One more method (from Andrew Dodd) There's an easier way to implement lockup disable. Most lockup torque converters disable lockup when the brakes are applied, so a safer way to disable TC lockup is to fool the TCM into thinking that the brakes are applied. Instructions on how to do this on some A604-equipped vehicles can be found here. Rather than splicing into your TCM's solenoid harness, you splice a toggle switch into one wire. I'll be installing this in my LeBaron over winter break (Not because of shudder, but for better around-town acceleration when I want it.) This also should work on A413 lockup-equipped vehicles. Important note: Craig wrote, I have tried this method before with my own vehicle and two other people's, and found that it did not work for me. After 30 seconds or so of the brake override switch (fools the computer that the brakes are on) the lockup engaged anyway. Not to mention that I was told my brake lights were also coming on when I flipped the switch. I am not saying that his method will not work at all, it simply did not work in my three cases. I am not looking for a war, or anything like that, but just want to inform people that his method, just as mine, does not apply to all vehicles. Navigation

Inexpensive repairs for the Chrysler Ultradrive automatic transmission Lane MacFarlane's Guide to Changing Transmission Fluid Yourself

Replacing Transmission Pressure Switches

DIY: Replacing Transmission Pressure Switches I recently had to change out one of my transmission pressure switches on my 2005 Pilot, so I decided to take a few photos while doing it and share them who might have to perform the same procedure in the future. For those of you who are interested in the story behind this, please see the following thread: Sporadic vibration at low speeds This procedure has been posted by others on different Honda and Acura vehicle forums, and the threads on those forums provide some insight as to why it was important that the pressure switches were changed. I'm posting this thread in the "Maintenance" section of the forum since most DIY threads

are here; also, many Acura TL owners have or plan on changing their transmission pressure switches as another maintenance item. If the moderators feel that there is a more appropriate place for this thread, they can feel free to move it. Purchased parts: (1) 28600-RAY-003 (1) 28610-RAY-003 (2) 90471-PW7-A00 (Washer/Gasket) (5) 91501-S04-003 (Fender Clips; I broke 3 and bought 2 extra) Tools needed: Floor Jack & Jack Stands (or vehicle lift) 22 mm wrench or deep socket (for pressure switches) 10 mm wrench or socket Small flathead screwdriver (or clip removal tool if you have one) Torque wrench Step 1 Break the lug nuts loose on the driver side front wheel. Raise the front of the vehicle (of course, remember to exercise all safety precautions and use common sense when doing this). I adjusted my jack stands so that the driver side sat a bit higher than the passenger side. I did this to minimize the amount of ATF that might spill from the transmission. Remove driver side front wheel. Attached Thumbnails

__________________ '05 Pilot EX-L SBP *Moonroof Visor* *Roof Rack Crossbars* *Aftermarket DVD

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Advertisement 12-29-2010, 12:33 PM #2 (permalink)

NJGuy
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Step 2 Using the small flathead screwdriver (or clip removal tool), remove the fender liner clips from at least the halfway point of the wheel well and forward towards the front bumper (probably between 8 and 10 clips). Move the fender liner and front lower splash shield aside. Attached Thumbnails

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__________________ '05 Pilot EX-L SBP *Moonroof Visor* *Roof Rack Crossbars* *Aftermarket DVD Player & Headrest Monitor System* *Generic All-Weather Floor Mats* *Center Console Cup Holders* *Full Size Spare* *Weathertech Cargo Liner* *Rear Splash Guards*

12-29-2010, 12:36 PM

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NJGuy
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Step 3 The third gear pressure switch is located behind the black bracket. Using the 10 mm wrench, remove the upper and lower bolts that mount the black bracket to the transmission case. Rotate the bracket away from the transmission to reveal the third gear pressure switch. Attached Thumbnails

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12-29-2010, 12:37 PM

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NJGuy
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Step 4 Unclip the connector to the pressure switch by pushing on the wire connector's tab and pulling the connector away from the switch. Using the 22 mm wrench, loosen and remove the third gear pressure switch. Attached Thumbnails

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12-29-2010, 12:40 PM

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NJGuy
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Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 287 Feedback Score: 0 reviews

Step 5 Install the new washer/gasket on the new third gear pressure switch. Install the third gear pressure switch onto the transmission and torque to 14 ft-lbs. If you have any dielectric grease, it probably isn't a bad idea to put some on the connector. My connectors were clean and I didn't bother. Remove the clear protective boot on the pressure switch. Reconnect the wire to the third gear pressure switch, ensuring that the tab clicks into place. Reinstall the black bracket and 10 mm bolts. Attached Thumbnails

__________________ '05 Pilot EX-L SBP *Moonroof Visor* *Roof Rack Crossbars* *Aftermarket DVD Player & Headrest Monitor System* *Generic All-Weather Floor Mats* *Center Console Cup Holders* *Full Size Spare* *Weathertech Cargo Liner* *Rear Splash Guards*

12-29-2010, 12:42 PM

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NJGuy
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Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 287 Feedback Score: 0 reviews

Step 6 The fourth gear pressure switch is easier to access because it is uncovered. Unclip the wire connector from the fourth gear pressure switch. Loosen and remove the pressure switch using the 22 mm wrench. Install the new washer/gasket on the new pressure switch; install the pressure switch onto the transmission and torque to 14 ft-lbs. Remove the protective boot and reconnect the wire. Attached Thumbnails

__________________

'05 Pilot EX-L SBP *Moonroof Visor* *Roof Rack Crossbars* *Aftermarket DVD Player & Headrest Monitor System* *Generic All-Weather Floor Mats* *Center Console Cup Holders* *Full Size Spare* *Weathertech Cargo Liner* *Rear Splash Guards*

1 2 2 9 2 0 1 0 , 1 2 : 5 2 P M

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N J Step 7 GReinstall the front lower splash shield and inner fender liner. Reinstall the driver side front wheel. Lower the vehicle onto the floor and torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs. Test drive u vehicle to ensure that there are no major shifting issues or transmission error codes. y
R e g i s t e r e d U s e r

I know that this DIY thread isn't perfect; I didn't take pictures of every individual step and some of the photos don't exactly match up. Also, like every other DIY thread, I give the following disclaimers: "do this at your own risk"; "I take no responsibility in any damage this may cause to your vehicle"; "I take no responsibility for any injury that may occur"; "positive results are not guaranteed"; etc., etc. (did I leave any out?) Also, I am willing to make any changes or corrections to my posts regarding this procedure. I am also willing to answer any questions that anyone may have. __________________ '05 Pilot EX-L SBP *Moonroof Visor* *Roof Rack Crossbars* *Aftermarket DVD Player & Headrest Monitor System* *Generic All-Weather Floor Mats* *Center Console Cup Holders* *Full Size Spare* *Weathertech Cargo Liner* *Rear Splash Guards*

J o i n D a t e : A u g 2 0 0 7 L o c a t i o n : N J P o s t s : 2

8 7 F e e d b a c k S c o r e : 0 r e v i e w s

1 2 2 9 2 0 1 0 , 0 3 : 3 2 P M

#8 (permalink)

N _ J a y
R e g i s t e r e d U s e r

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJGuy Purchased parts: (1) 28600-RAY-003 (1) 28610-RAY-003 (2) 90471-PW7-A00 (Washer/Gasket) (5) 91501-S04-003 (Fender Clips; I broke 3 and bought 2 extra) Where did you get those part numbers? They seem to be for a later year (although could be functionally compatible with our year) '03 shows 28600-P7W-003 AND 28600-P7Z-003 __________________ However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill

J o i n D a t e : M a y 2 0 0 2 L o c

a t i o n : C h i c a g o , N W B u r b s P o s t s : 1 3 , 6 6 5 F e e d b a c k S c o r e : 0 r e v i e w s

Input parameters The typical modern TCU uses signals from engine sensors, automatic transmission sensors and from other electronic controllers to determine when and how to shift. More modern designs share inputs or obtain information from an input to the ECU, whereas older designs often have their own dedicated inputs and sensors on the engine components. Modern TCUs are so complex in their design and make calculations based on so many parameters that there are an indefinite amount of possible shift behaviours. [edit] Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) This may also be known as an output speed sensor (OSS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the TCU to determine the current speed of the vehicle. The TCU uses this information to determine when a gear change should take place based in the various operating parameters. [edit] Wheel speed sensor (WSS) Modern automatic transmissions also have a wheel speed sensor input to determine the true speed of the vehicle to determine whether the vehicle is going downhill or uphill and also adapt gear changes according to road speeds, and also whether to decouple the torque converter at a standstill to improve fuel consumption and reduce load on running gear. [edit] Throttle position sensor (TPS) The TPS sensor along with the vehicle speed sensor are the two main inputs for most TCUs. Older transmissions use this to determine engine load, with the introduction of drive-by-wire technology, this is often a shared input between the ECU and TCU. The input is used to determine the optimum time and characteristics for a gear change according to load on the engine. The rate of change is used to determine whether a downshift is appropriate for overtaking, for example, the

value of the TPS is also continually monitored during the journey and shift programmes are changed accordingly (economy, sport mode, etc.). The TCU can also reference this information with the vehicle speed sensor to determine vehicle acceleration and compare this with a nominal value; if the actual value is much higher or lower (such as driving uphill or towing a trailer) the transmission will change its gearshift patterns to suit the situation. [edit] Turbine speed sensor (TSS) This may also be known as an input speed sensor (ISS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the TCU to determine the current rotational speed of the input shaft or torque converter. The TCU uses the input shaft speed to determine slippage across the torque converter and potentially to determine the rate of slippage across the bands and clutches. This information is vital to regulate the application of the torque converter lock-up clutch smoothly and effectively. [edit] Transmission fluid Temperature sensor (TFT) This may also be known as Transmission Oil Temperature. This sensor determines the fluid temperature inside the transmission. This is often used for diagnostic purposes to check ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) at the correct temperature. The main use of this has been as a failsafe feature to downshift the transmission if the ATF becomes extremely hot. On more modern TCUs this input allows the TCU to modify the line pressure and solenoid pressures according to the changing viscosity of the fluid based on temperature, and also to determine regulation of the torque converter lock-up clutch [edit] Kick down switch One of the most common inputs into a TCU is the kick down switch which is used to determine if the accelerator pedal has been depressed past full throttle. When activated the transmission downshifts into the lowest permissible gear based on current road speed to use the full power reserves of the engine. This is still present in most transmissions though is no longer as necessary to use as the TCU uses the throttle position sensor and rapid rate of change to determine whether a downshift may be necessary, thus there is no need to use the kickdown feature in most circumstances. [edit] Brake light switch This input is used to determine whether to activate the shift lock solenoid to prevent the driver selecting a driving range with no foot on the brake. In more modern TCUs this input is also used to determine whether to downshift the transmission to increase engine braking effect if the transmission detects that the vehicle is going downhill. [edit] Traction Control System (TCS) Many TCUs now have an input from the vehicles traction control system, if the TCS detects unfavourable road conditions, a signal is sent to the TCU. The TCU can modify shift programmes by upshifting early, eliminating the torque converter lock-up clutch application, and also eliminating the first gear totally and pulling off in 2nd. [edit] Switches These simple on/off electric switches detect the presence or absence of fluid pressure in a particular hydraulic line. They are used for diagnostic purposes and in some cases for controlling the application or release of hydraulic control elements. [edit] Cruise control module An overlooked factor is that many TCUs also have a signal from the Cruise control module in order to change gearchange behaviour to take into account the throttle is not being operated by the driver, this eliminates unexpected gearchanges when the cruise control is engaged. [edit] Inputs from other controllers A wide variety of information is delivered to the TCU via Controller Area Network communications or similar protocols (such as Chrysler's CCD bus, an early EIA-485-based vehicle local area network). In older vehicle designs, as well as in aftermarket TCUs sold into the racing and hobbyist markets, the TCU receives only the signals needed to control the transmission (engine speed, vehicle speed, throttle position or manifold vacuum, shift lever position). [edit] Output parameters

Chapter 1
The key to any successful diagnosis is to perform a logical series of checks, designed to identify the specific failure as quickly and accurately as possible. This isn't some new concept, though it may be the first time you've seen it in print. In fact, chances are you've been using a logical diagnostic procedure for years...even if you've never looked at it that way. For example, when a vehicle comes into your shop with a transmission problem, you probably start your diagnosis by performing a visual inspection, to look for anything obvious that could be wrong with the unit. Next, you check the fluid level and condition. Then you move on to a basic road test, to compare your observations with the customer's complaint. All of these steps are part of a logical diagnostic procedure, with one simple goal: diagnosing the transmission. Just because today's transmissions are controlled electronically doesn't change the need for a logical diagnostic procedure. And the place to start isn't any different from where you started before. A visual inspection...checking the fluida basic road test...all good beginning checks for any transmission - electronic or not. And, if you find a problem during these checks, fix it and recheck the transmission's operation. In some cases, that may be all that's necessary to repair the problem. Most of the time, however, you'll have to go on to the next step in the diagnosis. This is where the procedure differs from checking a hydraulically-controlled unit. Because the next few steps enable you to determine whether the problem you're looking for is in the computer system, or in the transmission itself.

A Logical Approach to Transmission Diagnosis

Inside or Outside?
This is one of the key questions in diagnosing computer-controlled transmissions: Is the problem inside the transmission, or in the electronic controls, outside the transmission? If the problem's inside the transmission, in most cases you'll have to pull it out of the car and repair it. But very often, the problem may be in the electronics that control transmission operation, rather than inside the transmission itself. So, isolating the transmission problem depends on being able to answer the simple question, "inside or outside?"

Isolating the transmission problem depends on being able to answer the simple question, "inside or outside"?

Sounds easy, doesn't it? And it is - in fact, the entire procedure for isolating the location of the problem can be summed up in these 3 easy steps: Step 1: Check for codes. Step 2: Check the signals. Step 3: Force the shifts. Let's take a look at each of these steps, and see what the results of each step indicate about the transmission and computer system.

Diagnostic Flowchart
This chart provides a basic diagnostic path to follow when diagnosing nearly any computercontrolled transmission. We'll take a look at how to perform each step, and see what the results of each step indicates.

STEP 1: Read the Codes

The more complex any computer system is, the more help it usually provides for diagnosis. This is a basic tenet of computer systems, and automotive computers are no exception. Most automotive computer systems provide a series of diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) to indicate likely sources of problems. The computer indicates these codes by flashing a malfunction indicator lamp, or MIL. On earlier vehicles, this light may bear the name "Check Engine," "Service Engine Soon," or "Power Loss"; but regardless of the label, they all provide the computer system with a means of communicating systems failures. So the first step in any electronic transmission diagnosis is to read the diagnostic trouble codes. And not just read the codes: Record any codes you find, clear the codes and road test the vehicle. Then, after your road test, check the codes again, to see if any of the earlier codes are back, or if any new codes set. The reason to clear the codes is because some codes in memory can actually affect transmission operation. More than one transmission problem has been fixed simply by clearing the codes from memory. Never disconnect the battery to clear the codes from memory. Disconnecting the battery will clear more than diagnostic trouble codes: It also clears radio presets, antitheft codes, electric seat memories and so on. Always follow the procedures outlined in the vehicle-specific section for clearing the codes. If the transmission seems to operate okay during your road test, and no codes reset in memory, the transmission and computer system may be fine. Any codes that were in memory earlier may have been a computer glitch, or they could have been in there from an earlier diagnosis. But keep a record of them, just in case they come back later. They could help you identify an intermittent failure.

The computer uses a malfunction indicator lamp, or MIL, to indicate diagnostic trouble codes. Any codes that return are probably hard codes; that is, they're problems that are there now - you should be able to find them by performing some basic diagnostic troubleshooting. New codes are probably in the same class; check the circuits that the codes indicate as having a problem. An important point to remember is that diagnostic trouble codes never indicate a specific component failure. Instead, these codes indicate a system or circuit failure, such as a "MAP sensor voltage high." Of course, this code could indicate a bad MAP sensor, but it could just as easily indicate a vacuum leak or a loose ground wire. That's why nearly every diagnostic trouble code has a specific diagnostic procedure associated with it. The procedure takes you through a series of checks, to help you isolate the specific failure that caused the code to set. Look for these procedures in your shop manual. Never replace any component based strictly on a diagnostic trouble code. If you find a code in the computer's memory after your road test, record it, and then go on to the next step in the diagnostic procedure. Don't try repairing the problem until after your diagnosis is complete.

STEP 2: Checking the Signals

To control transmission operation, the computer develops a series of electrical signals. These signals energize and de-energize solenoids inside the transmission, which control fluid flow to operate the transmission. So one of the best ways of determining whether you're looking at a transmission or computer problem is to examine the actual signals from the computer to the transmission. If the shift pattern doesn't match the transmission operation, the problem's in the transmission. If the signals aren't right for driving conditions, you know to look for a computer system problem. Checking those signals is fairly simple, using a signal tester you can build yourself, for a few

dollars' worth of parts, available at any electronics store. Look for the instructions to build your signal monitor later in this program.

One easy way to check the computer signals to the transmission is with a signal monitor you can build yourself. Once you have your signal monitor built, connecting it to the transmission harness is a snap. From there, checking the shift signals is a simple matter of comparing the LEDs to the shift pattern chart in this book. If the pattern's wrong, you're looking at a computer system problem. If the signals are right, but the shift pattern isn't, you're probably dealing with an internal transmission problem. One more check will confirm the problem

STEP 3: Force the Shift

So far you've established that a computer system failure should set a code in memory. And if the signals to the transmission are okay, any shift problems have to be caused by a problem inside the transmission. So why would you need to force the shift? Suppose the computer isn't providing the right signals to operate the transmission - you know you're faced with a computer problem. But what about the transmission is it okay, or could it still have an internal problem? Of course there could still be an internal problem. So, before you assume that the only problem is in the computer system, your best bet is to check the transmission, by forcing the shift.

Forcing the shift manually involves disconnecting the transmission connector, and operating the transmission different ranges manually. There are two ways to force the shift: mechanically and electrically. Forcing the shift mechanically involves operating the manual shift lever with the transmission connector disconnected, and seeing how the transmission responds. Disconnecting the connector puts the transmission into failsafe operation. In this mode, the transmission should provide specific gear ranges in each selector position. Each individual section includes a chart, showing what gear you can expect in each selector range. Next, try forcing the shift electrically. This requires energizing and de-energizing the transmission solenoids in a specific order, to provide the same signals the computer would deliver to shift the transmission. Each section in this book provides a specific method for energizing the solenoids, to force the transmission to shift gears.

Each section in this book provides the specific steps necessary to force the transmission to shift. Put the car on a lift, and connect a set of jumper wires as shown in the section for the transmission you're working on. Shifting gears is a simple matter of connecting or disconnecting one of the wires: Each time you connect or disconnect a wire, the transmission should shift gears. Always use a fused jumper wire to provide power to the transmission connector. This prevents shorted components or harnesses from burning when you connect the jumpers. And always disconnect the harness from the computer system before attempting to energize the circuit. This prevents power from feeding back and damaging the computer system. There are three possible situations you could run into during the mechanical checks: The transmission shifts manually and electrically The transmission shift manually but not electrically The transmission won't shift manually or electrically If the transmission shifts manually and electrically, the transmission itself is probably fine. Any problems will usually be in the computer system or the wiring to the transmission connector. Use

the diagnostic trouble codes to track down the source of the failure. The only exceptions to this are intermittent problems, such as a sticking shift valve; for those problems, you'll have to concentrate on the transmission signals when the problem actually occurs. If the signals are okay when the problem occurs, the failure is probably inside the transmission - even if it seems to shift okay manually and electrically. If the transmission shifts manually but not electrically, there's probably a problem in the transmission solenoids or the harness inside the transmission. The transmission itself is probably okay. Once again, go back and check the codes to help identify the source of the problem. But if the transmission won't shift manually or electrically, chances are you're faced with an internal transmission problem - burnt clutches, a hard parts failure, sticking valves - that sort of thing. Your next step will probably involve pulling the transmission out of the car. But don't forget about the computer system: More than one vehicle has come into a shop with both a transmission failure and a computer problem. And, very often, a computer failure can actually cause the transmission problem. So it's important to identify both problems before going on in your repair.

High Pressure Masks Transmission Problems

So if the transmission shifts when you energize the solenoids, the problem's in the computer system, not the transmission, right? Well, maybe and then again, maybe not. If the only electronic devices inside the transmission are the shift solenoids that control its operation, then yes, energizing the solenoids is a legitimate way to prove whether the problem's in the computer system. And in some electronic transmissions, the only electronic controls are the shift solenoids. But these days, many electronic units contain a lot more than the shift solenoids. To begin with, many units keep an eye on transmission fluid temperature by including a thermistor in the circuit. A thermistor varies resistance with temperature changes; if fluid temperature rises too high, the computer adjusts the shift pattern and lockup to help lower the temperature. Another type of sensor many transmissions include are pulse generators. These sensors develop a frequency signal that enables the computer to compare output shaft speed to either input shaft or sun shell speed. The computer uses this information to modify clutch apply timing, and to identify clutch slip.

A failure that affects the signals from the pulse generators can affect transmission operation, but the transmission may still shift when you force the shifts. Any kind of failure that affects these sensor signals could put the computer system into failsafe operation. Energizing the solenoids may allow the transmission to shift, but the problem that put the system into failsafe - a slipping clutch, incorrect gear ratio or sensor failure, to name just a few possibilities - is still there, inside the transmission. Another consideration that could affect how the transmission shifts is line pressure. Many transmissions control mainline pressure through an electronic pressure control solenoid, or EPC. The computer may control this solenoid with a pulsed, variable duty cycle signal, or by varying

the current flow through the circuit. These solenoids are always designed to push pressures to maximum if power shuts down. This prevents the transmission from being damaged due to low pressures if the system goes into failsafe. But it also causes a diagnostic challenge: Since you have to disconnect the computer harness to force the unit to shift electrically, line pressure will be higher than normal during these tests. This high line pressure can mask a slipping clutch or a slight leak in an apply circuit. The transmission may seem to shift fine - but only while pressures are excessively high. Once the computer takes control of transmission operation, the pressures return to normal, and the problem returns with it. So how can you find this elusive failure? Check the codes. Any failure profound enough to put the system into failsafe should be severe enough to set a diagnostic trouble code in memory. That code should direct you right toward the failure. The important point to remember is that no one check will always enable you to isolate every transmission failure. That's why it's important to perform all three steps, and evaluate the results of each step, individually and as a whole. This combination will provide the most consistently accurate diagnoses, time and time again.

Chapter 2
The second step in your logical diagnostic procedure is to check the signals from the computer to the transmission. To perform this check, you'll need a shift signal monitor, designed to display the signals, as they occur. There are a number of manufacturers offering test devices that will provide these signals, along with many other useful diagnostic features. Any of these tools would be very helpful in diagnosing most electronically-controlled transmissions on the road today. But if all you're looking to do is to check the shift commands from the computer system, all you really need is a simple signal monitor that you can build yourself, with a few inexpensive parts from your local electronics store. This monitor is easy to connect, easy to read, and only draws 0.025 amps, so it won't harm delicate computer circuits. In this chapter, you'll learn how to build your own shift monitor, how to connect it to the transmission harness, and how to read the signals and compare them to the charts that appear later in this book. When used properly, your shift monitor is sure to become one of the most useful tools in your shop-build yours today!

Building Your Signal Monitor

The Parts You'll Need

Here's a list of the parts you'll need to build your signal monitor, with Radio Shack part numbers to make purchasing those parts easier. Quantity Description 3 2 Jumbo LEDs 470 ohm Resistor (2/Pack) Radio Shack P/N 276-086 271-019

1 1 1 1 1

Alligator Clips (10/Pack) 25, 6-Conductor Phone Cord Radar Detector Mount Plate Shrink Tubing Small Wire Tie Strap Solder

270-378 279-422 270-034 278-1627

The Tools You'll Need

And here's a list of the tools you'll need: o Soldering Iron o Wire Cutter/Stripper o Drill o 25/64" and 3/16" Drill Bits

10 Easy Steps
Now just follow these 10 easy steps to build your signal monitor. Use the graphic on the next page to help identify each component and its location. Step 1: Drill three 25/64" holes in the mount plate for the LEDs. Drill two 3/16" holes for the tie strap. Step 2: Trim the long leg (+) of the LEDs to 1/2" and solder one resistor to each of the cut legs. Step 3: Cut off the modular end from the phone cord, and strip the gray jacket back 2" from the end of the wire. Then strip the colored insulation back about 3/8" from the end of the wires. Step 4: Cut 1/16" shrink tubing into 1" pieces, and slide one over the end of each wire. Step 5: Snap the LEDs into the holes you drilled, and solder the wires to the LEDs and resistors, as shown in the graphic. After the solder cools, slide the shrink tubing over the soldered wires, and apply heat to shrink the tubing into place. Step 6: Cut the phone cord to about 12." Step 7: Strip the gray insulation back about 2" from the end of the phone cord. Slide the red, green and yellow wires into one length of 1/8" shrink tubing; slide the blue, black and white wires into a second length 1/8" shrink tubing. Heat the shrink tubing to hold the wires in place. Step 8: Cut two 1/4" pieces of 1/4" shrink tubing, and place one on one of the yellow alligator clip boots, and the other on one of the green alligator clip boots. You'll use these bands to identify the clips to connect when checking a transmission. Step 9: Strip the colored ends of the individual wires about 3/8." Slide the boots over the appropriate wires, as shown in the graphic, and solder the alligator clips onto the wire ends. Wait till the solder cools before sliding the boots over the clips. Step 10: Paint the back of the LEDs black, to prevent sunlight from shining through. The directions in this book for connecting your shift signal monitor are based on the wire and boot colors indicated in this drawing. Any deviation from these colors could affect your monitor's effectiveness and the results of your tests.

Two Types of Wiring

Now that you've finished building your signal monitor, you're probably anxious to try it out. But before you start connecting it to a transmission harness, there's an important point to consider: There are two different methods for connecting your signal monitor, depending on the unit you're working on. That's because some systems supply power to energize the shift solenoids, and other supply ground. And, while your signal monitor works equally well on both systems, there's a difference in how you have to connect it to the harness. The first system is where the computer supplies power to energize the solenoids. This system only requires the manufacturer to use one wire for each solenoid. The solenoids receive ground through the transmission case.

For these units, you'll connect the clips with the red, yellow and green boots to the solenoid wires. You have to connect the other three clips to a good ground. The other type of system is where the solenoids receive power from an external source, and the computer supplies ground to energize the solenoids.

Signal Monitor Wire and Terminal Identification #1 = Red Boot #2 = Yellow Boot #3 = Green Boot #4 = Black Boot #5 = Yellow Boot w/Black Band #6 = Green Boot w/Black Band For these units, you'll connect the clips with the red, yellow and green boots to a 12-volt power source; the other three clips connect to the individual solenoid wires.

If the computer supplies ground to energize the solenoid, you'll connect the clips with the red, yellow and green boots to a good ground.

Comparing Your Results

Of course, that's a lot to remember, and a mistake connecting your signal monitor could easily leave you with completely useless results. That's why we've included a series of connection graphics in the section dedicated to each type of transmission. Just follow the directions on the graphic for connecting your signal monitor. When connecting your signal monitor to the transmission connector, make sure you adjust the clips so they won't short against one another. Try connecting some to the transmission connector, and others to the harness connector. And always make sure the rubber boots are in place. Once you have your signal monitor connected, route the wire through the back of the hood, and into the passenger compartment. Then close the hood, and go for a drive. The LEDs on your signal monitor should begin to light, to indicate the signals from the computer.

Here's an example of a connection graphic, which shows how to connect your shift monitor to the transmission connector. This one's for a GM 4L60E. To help you see whether the signals are correct, we've also included a chart for each transmission, indicating the signals you should see for each gear range. If the LEDs light to match the pattern in the chart for that transmission, the computer is providing the proper signals to the transmission. But if the signals differ from those on the chart, the computer signals aren't correct; look for a computer system problem.

The computer signals should match the shift pattern listed in the chart for the trasmission you're working on. This example is for a GM 4L60E.

Not Just for Shift Signals

The goal of your signal monitor was to enable you to examine the signals the computer develops to shift the transmission. And it does a great job at providing those signals. But that's not all it does. You can use your signal monitor to examine any electrical signal the computer develops to control transmission operation. Another example of one of those signals is the pulsed signal the computer uses to control mainline pressure on a transmission with an electronic pressure control (EPC) solenoid. These systems vary the ratio of on-time to off-time to control line pressure: The longer the solenoid is on, the lower pressure should be. So you can see whether the computer is controlling line pressure properly by looking for a change in the EPC signal as you vary the load on the engine. Just connect the wires from one of the LEDs on your signal monitor to the EPC terminals. Your book identifies these terminals, and shows which is positive and which is negative.

You can even use your signal monitor to check the signals to the EPC solenoid. Then drive the car. The LED should be dimmer than when checking a shift solenoid, because the signal is pulsing. The more load you put on the vehicle, the dimmer the LED should become. At full throttle, the LED should go out. Now that you have your signal monitor built, and you're familiar with how to use it, you're ready to begin your diagnoses. The rest of this book provides the information you need to diagnose most domestic transmissions, using the skills you've learned in this program.

Chapter 3
General Motors Transmissions
This section covers the electronically-controlled transmissions and transaxles built domestically by General Motors. Most of these units are based on earlier, nonelectronic transmissions; GM converted them to allow the computer system to control their operation.

Well start by looking at the procedure for retrieving and clearing diagnostic trouble codes, and then move on to the transmission-specific information. This information includes: connector pin identification signal monitor connection procedure signal monitor shift pattern failsafe gear ranges and the procedure to force the unit to shift electrically. Remember to follow these procedures all the way through to the end, using the diagnostic flowchart from chapter 1 as your guide. This procedure will help you make sure that your diagnosis is accurate and complete. Now youre ready to move on to the first part of this section, covering retrieving and clearing diagnostic trouble codes.

Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge Car / Minivan Four-Speed Automatic Transmission

Other automatic transmissions How the Ultradrive was fixed (Chris Theodore interview) Flush Swap Solenoid Pack
Transmission problems and maintenance This page is designed to help you to quickly and cheaply fix your "bad" Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth four-speed automatic transmission for front wheel drive and all wheel drive cars and minivans (we are not selling anything). This family of transmissions was released in 1989 and, with numerous improvements, continued into 2012. Here are some of the most common problems:

Incorrect transmission fluid- most common problem (even now)

Computer needs retraining (try this as soon as youve changed the fluid) Solenoid pack (cost: about $160 plus labor, or $30 as DIY rebuild with kit.)

Ground strap broken/missing - may be misdiagnosed as needing a new transmission and/or computer. Clogged hydraulic brain ($0 to $150) Bad input sensor (common) - Can be seen on scan tool screen as input rpm if its 0, replace the sensor. Computer firmware needs upgrade (Chrysler dealer should do this for free but might run up to $200) Incorrect filter used in last fluid change Loose electrical connection Torque converter (see the bump shift section) Gear selector issues

You can extend the life of a transmission with a transmission fluid cooler and a deeper pan. (Lauren wrote: I was having trouble with the lockup clutch slipping on trips; with a headwind or a significant grade, the RPM would begin to edge up, and then it would get worse. I decided to try your suggestion to add an oil cooler. We then took a 650 mile trip and had no problems. What a relief!)

Technical explanations and testimonials to the effectiveness of this page Basic design of the four-speed automatics How the Ultradrive was fixed (Chris Theodore interview) Step by step solenoid pack cleaning or rebuilding (with photos) Checking the computer for error codes Choosing and flushing transmission fluid Fixing the torque converter lockup circuit Swapping transmissions: putting a good one into your car Adding a transmission fluid cooler
Reader experiences and testimonials

A painless way to fix a "bad" transmission!

How the Ultradrive was fixed (Chris Theodore interview)

When you change your transmission fluid, always use the recommended fluid. (1989-91 owners, ignore the manual and use ATF+4). Don't assume your mechanic or dealer knows what fluid to use. Ask them to make sure. (Some people recommend watching the mechanic pour it in. We have been told about mechanics who said they were using ATF+4 when they were not.) All Chrysler (and Honda and Toyota) four-speed and six-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use ATF+4 in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.

Some companies sell "universal" fluids; if they state that they are compatible with ATF+4, they should work, and can be helpful for those unsure of which fluid to use. The Center for Quality Assurance warned us to check the

label for Chryslers license number, and to make sure the fluid is on their list of ATF+4 licensed and tested fluids.
People can often cure their transmission problems by changing the fluid and retraining the computer (retraining instructions are lower on the page). If you suspect they have put Dexron in [note Jeep exclusion], have it replaced immediately! [if you have a 1993-95 transmission, also follow TSB-18-24-95 and get your computer updated!] Master tech Chris Taurman wrote: changing the fluid in 1993-95 units is a short term fix; the TCM must be flashed or replaced to prevent the fluid from becoming degraded again and to eliminate partial EMCC torque converter clutch operation, which was the cause of 90% of torque converter shudder complaints as well as the aforementioned bump down (shift scheduling changes in the software took care of most low mileage complaints).] Some later models have similar situations - a computer firmware upgrade is needed. How to check your fluid
(As per Mopar Magazine, December 2006): Put the vehicle onto a level surface, with the engine warmed up to 180 F and in Park. Completely clean off dipstick handle, then remove the dipstick and make sure the fluid is in the HOT region. The fluid should be in the COLD region when the fluid temperature is at 80 F. If the fluid smells burned or is contaminated with particles, there may be a serious problem and you should have the fluid analyzed.

Chrysler four-speed automatics only use ATF+4, regardless of what the dipstick or owner's manual says. To quote Mopar Magazine,ATF+4 is the right fluid for Chrysler automatic transmissions built since 2001. If you don't have any problems until you have your car serviced...it should mean something. A transmission that the dealer or transmission shop says is "not repairable" can often be fixed with the simple steps outlined on this page, so don't give up hope just because a mechanic or two says your transmission needs to be replaced. Additives Do not use Dexron with an additive. Richard Widman passed us an extensive report from Chevron, which compared ATF+3 fluid with Dexron plus various additives. They found that neither of two major brands matched ATF+3's performance specifications. John C. Lai wrote (around 2001) that LubeGuard, used with Dexron by AAMCO, is not a good substitute for ATF+3: "...although Lubeguard claims on their website that their product will convert Dexron to become an ATF +3 (7176E) equivalent, they have no test data to back that up. Their head engineer told me that the tests they did were conducted in the early 1990s with the first version of 7176, several years before ATF+3 was developed. So, they have no basis for their claims of ATF +3 equivalency. The Jeep exception There is an important exception for Jeep owners. As Danny noted, "The Jeep AW-4 (AisinWarner) transmission should use Dexron III." Greg, a DCX tech, wrote that the AW4/AX4 transmission was used on 6-cylinder Jeep Cherokees through the end of production, and on the first six-cylinder 1993 Grand Cherokees (built in 1992 and 1993), but on the Grand Cherokee it was phased out midway through the 1993 model year. This transmission requires Dexron, while the 42RE / A500SE which replaced the Aisin-Warner transmission midway in the 1993 model year needs ATF+4. Again, if you are confused, you may just want to try one of the new universal fluids that is both Dexron and ATF+4 compatible. Shifter issues (added July 2010)

Joe Kosiner wrote: There is a problem with the shifter in some 2005-07 cars (especially the LX) that causes the shifter to remain stuck in park whether you depress the brake pedal or not. A plastic part in the mechanical lockout that is tied to the brake pedal breaks and you are stuck in park. Billet Technology sells a replacement part made from aluminum, so you don't need to replace the entire shifter (as some dealers apparently do, at high cost). Replacing the part took me about 2 hours being extremely careful about what I did. I would estimate it would take about an hour the second time around to disassemble the shifter, replace the part and reassemble. The shifter works more smoothly then it has in a long time. Computer revision The 1995 technical service bulletin 18-24-95 declares that many issues (including "bump shift") can be resolved by updating the computer's flash ROM (where possible), and carefully going through a retraining process. Dealers can and should do this free of charge before any other work is undertaken (except of course for the transmission fluid change). You can also do the retraining yourself (see below). Michael Richards wrote: The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is another item that deserves mention. I found a TSB indicating a flash upgrade was needed to eliminate hard/erratic shift problems after 2 dealers told me I needed a $1600 transmission rebuild. I insisted they perform the upgrade first. The TCM refused to accept the upgrade so I had them replace it (they did it under protest). Now my transmission works like new. It cost $200. Something to consider. Solenoid packs / relays - the most common problem? Christopher Grimm wrote that the protective screens for the hydraulic "brain" can clog; it can be taken apart (not recommended by Chrysler) and the screens and valves cleaned. Christopher recommended getting a replacement from the junkyard to work on first; he also said this only works once on any particular "brain." However, Certified Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote: Do not take solenoid packs apart. This alters the calibration of the unit! If the filters are plugged up, replace it! The current unit costs about $150 and eliminates the need for a sound shield and separator plate! More often, Christopher said, the issue is simply that Chrysler and/or the rebuilder set the clearances too high, and/or the wrong fluid was used. Step by step solenoid pack cleaning or rebuilding (with photos) Failure after takeoff Gary Hicks wrote: [If the transmission fails after takeoff, check] the electrical terminal that bolts into the computer housing that is mounted on the transmission. This is an electrical terminal and it bolts on to the computer box that is below the radiator fan and mounted on the transmission. Because of the poor design of this terminal it becomes a well and holds water. This happend to me on my 1992 3.3 Voyager. The transmission would not change gears without turning off the ignition to reset the computer. I used air to blow it out and the problem was solved. [I discovered it when replacing the sensors based on the advice on your site.] Webmaster note: Chrysler integrated their engine and transmission computers later in the decade. Transmission limp mode from missing ground path

C. Wilk wrote: 1990 Plymouth Acclaim. The transmission went into limp mode. Turning the ignition on and off a few times would fix it temporarily. I added new ground wires directly from negative battery cable to one of the bolts holding the TCM to the body (new body ground) and the bolt on the alternator (new alternator ground). Problem fixed. My old ground straps looked good; I even cleaned them, and still had the problem. But adding new ground paths fixed the problem. Inexpensive and easy so try this early in your trouble-shooting. Use quality parts in a transmission rebuild - don't trust the repair shop! Master Tech Bill wrote: I have made a living doing these transmissions since 1990 and have read your page and it's great. I have dealt with aftermarket shops and also worked for dealerships. The advice I have for anyone getting their trans rebuilt is - go to the local dealer and buy a front carrier (planetary gear) and rear carrier (planet or planetary gear). Bring them to the shop and insist that they are put in. Make sure the dealer sells you the one with the hardened spline -front and the 5 pinion rear. All the aftermarket is saturatedwith parts from Taiwan. It's like the difference between Snap-On and Harbor Freight. If you have first release overdrive hub it has to be updated to the new hub and and also the 2-4 hub to match the front planet if the trans is made before 7/93 for the 1994 model year. The 2-4 hub breaks quite often and now has a thicker collar. Best bet-buy all four pieces if (built in) 1993 and earlier, all models if you can afford it. They have all been redesigned and strengthened. If you get your trans done at an aftermarket shop what you are charged for the Taiwan parts is most likely pretty close to the dealer price for the mopar gears. What type of fluid to use? (more details) - ATF+3 vs. ATF+4 Chrysler TSB# 21-006-01 notes that all current vehicles only use ATF+4 type 9602, part 05013457AA (for quart bottles). The advantages of ATF+4 over +3 (and Dexron for that matter) include:

Better anti-wear and anti-corrosion properties and maintains its friction properties over time Controls oxidation - eliminates deposits Anti-foaming Superior low temperature operation

You can use ATF+4 with all older Chrysler transmissions (except some Jeeps, as noted earlier, and very early automatics before the TorqueFlite). Rich Hutchinson wrote: [In 1989-91] both the manual and the dipstick said Dexron was okay, which is wrong. For non lockup 3 spds, either can be used. For lockup 3 spds up to some date in 1999 either could be used but ATF+3 was prefered. After that date ATF+4 is to be used in all automatics. The best bet for transmissions made before 1998 is to just use ATF+4. Even if it's not needed, it's better than Dexron. The Chrysler ATF+4 info center has this statement: The previous ATF+3 was discontinued in 2005 and ATF+4 is recommended for all transmissions filled with ATF+3. Remember - when you change from Dexron, also retrain the computer and "flash" the computer memory (if applicable).

Ted Mittelstaedt noted: "Everything I've found indicates ATF+3 is not synthetic, ATF+4 is synthetic."
Click here for notes on the differences between ATF+3 and ATF+4, and for more on addities. Chrysler transmission filter mix-ups The filters for the some of the Chrysler four-speed transmissions are easily mixed up, but are not

interchangeable. Make sure you are using the filter specified in the owner's manual (or the correct third party equivalent). A filter which looks almost exactly the same may not work on your transmission. (Thanks, Ed Hennessy) Retraining your Chrysler transmission Transmission Exchange said the computer should be retrained when a rebuilt transmission is put in. This prevents both clutches from activating at the same time. Henry Traska noted that it may be best to retrain the transmission after changing the fluid if you were experiencing shifting problems. Mark Schwieterman provided a retraining guide which applies to pre-1995 transmissions (later ones may need a dealer or transmission shop to do it, but it might also work on many later ones):

1. Disconnect the battery to wipe the system memory clean (of course you will lose your radio presets and clock, but that's worth if it fixes the problem). 2. Reconnect the battery [after a decent interval] and start the engine. 3. Drive trying to maintain a constant medium throttle position as it accelerates up though all four gears (watch your tachometer). If the tranny is working correctly, you should only have to go to 45-50 mph. Do this from a standing start 15 - 20 times. You'll need a couple of miles of lightly travelled two lane. 4. With the van below 25 mph, do 5 - 8 wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st from 2nd or 3rd. let the van run in 2nd or 3rd for at least five seconds between kickdowns and remember to kick it down from below 25. With the van above 25, do 5 - 8 part to wide open throttle kickdowns to either 2nd or 3rd from 4th. Again let the van run for at least 5 seconds in 4th between kickdowns. Kicking down from 45 or 50 mph should work.
Simply disconnecting your computer or battery for a day or so may work depending on the transmission, but valiant67 noted that, Starting in 1995, the TCM [computer] retains its calibration even after the battery power has been removed. Since the TCM retains its memory, you must use a scan tool to reset the TCM or just let it adapt on its own. The "bump shift" The bump shift may be helped by changing the transmission fluid to the correct, modern, updated fluid. Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote: "Bump down" is not caused by the low/reverse clutch, which is turned on prior to the speed at which bump down occurs. There are two possible issues. Changing the transmission fluid [may work but] the computer must also be flashed or replaced [on pre-1996 models and some later models] to prevent the fluid from becoming degraded again and to eliminate partial "EMCC" TCC operation which was the cause of 90% of TCC shudder complaints (not the converter itself!) as well as bump down. The underdrive clutch is the primary cause of all other bump down complaints (the piston seal leaks, causing the computer to command 100% duty cycle of the UD solenoid, causing harsh downshift). A rebuild is the only repair for this. GMB3625 wrote: The computer learns the clutch volumn indexes which tell the solenoid pack how long to keep any given solenoid open to send fluid to a clutch pack. This will only work with clutch packs that are in good shape with the right clutch clearances. If the clutch clearances are bad this will not work properly. If the seals are bad, the only way to fix this problem long-term is to overhaul the transmission.

Craig Sherman wrote an excellent guide to fixing torque converter shudder in four speed automatics. (See Do it yourself guides later on this page) Alternative repairs Kelli Bee wrote: I was told by the dealer that I needed a new transmission because my 1998 Neon was leaking a quart every 8 miles. The car shifted fine when it had fluid so I got two more opinions. One said new transmission, the last said there was a cut in the cooler line that no one bothered to check. I thought it was the seals, but it was easier and cheaper than that. You might want to let people know to check that. Darrell Vines wrote: When I had my starter solenoid worked on by local alternator shop, the mechanic asked if I had transmission problems and solved them all by plugging in a loose electrical connection. Bryan wrote: I have noticed a load dependent noise at 45 to 60 mph a bad pinion bearing. Pinion bearing failures can take years to finally ruin a transmission, so the car owner can be run around for a long time. Fabinator wrote: I recommend an oil-to-air cooler with a diversion thermostat (returns oil to transmission until its warm). This keeps it at a constant, exact temperature, no matter what the weather. Rich Hutchinson wrote about the three speed automatic: There was a programming change that burnished the torque converter clutch. Without that software the three-speed can shudder, though it's likely that normal wear could cause this burnishing and avoid the problem. The problem: Doing about 35mph up a small hill, when click and the tranny disengaged. No forward, no reverse, not even a hint the tranny is even there...When I shift the lever into gear I hear the familiar faint click like it is going to go into gear, but then nothing. There is absolutely no power being transmitted to the wheels. A. Murphy wrote: "The torque converter splines probably sheared. I checked with the dealer and they quoted me $1,800-2,200 for a rebuilt with 3 year/36k mile warranty. Local shops quoted $1,500-1,800 with a one year warranty and they will rebuild my current tranny. I can buy a rebuild kit for $200. Add a couple hundred bucks for tools and I'm in for $400 plus tons of time." [See the earlier tips about replacing these with updated dealer parts] Walter wrote that the spider gear pin for the differential can go bad, but that when it does it often ruins the case. This should be taken into consideration in a rebuild (apparently Jasper has a fix for it). Transmission gasket fabinator wrote: The 41TE has no gasket between the transfer plate and valve body/accumulator housing, the seal is provided by a steel separator plate. If you have harsh downshifts and gear engagements, and routine maintenance didn't solve the problem, this probably will. You have to catch this quickly. RTV would not work. The brush-on gasket maker and high tack will probably be too soft. There is a product called "Indian head shellac" which comes in a little brown bottle, it has a cotton ball on a stick inside the cap, which is used to apply it to your workpiece. This stuff is extremely sticky, but it won't get all over the place when you apply it. Put it on the aluminum surfaces that seat on the separator plate, let it dry (it stays soft, like varnish), then slowly torque the bolts down. This will provide a positive seal that will hold up to heat, pressure, and time. I did this to correct harsh kickdowns, and it still works after three months. I inspected the shellac that was exposed to see how it held up, and it was fine. It won't come off and plug things up, ATF+4 has no solvent effect on it. Dealing with rebuilders and repair shops Christopher Grimm also had this advice for dealing with shops: Do your homework. See if the shop knows about shift improvement kits for the 604. Also ask them about a wiring harness upgrade, and how they set the clearances in the tranny. See if they mention adding another clutch pack to the 1-2 clutch pack, so that there are 5 instead of 4 in there. Make sure they replace the spider gears! Above all, make sure they use the proper fluid! If not,

don't even bother. If they met all the requirements except the fluid, ask them if you can supply your own. Also see if they can get the 9" converter, costly but worth it if you want your engine to rev a little quicker. There are also different gear sets available, I have the 3:55s in mine. Make sure they set the clearances at the lowest setting possible. This will shorten the shift time, firm up the shift, and give you more life out of the tranny. An auxiliary cooler is a must! [See the earlier tips about replacing components with updated dealer parts] Normal noises Dan Stern wrote (with regard to a buzzing noise just before stopping): I can stand on any street corner in my town and in ten minutes probably hear 30-40 examples of this sound, which goes "bzzzz---zz-tic." It's completely normal. It's the transmission fluid control solenoid valves opening and shutting rapidly to make the fluid go where it's supposed to go to shift the transmission. All the FWD/AWD 4 speed automatics make this sound with every upshift, every downshift, and every gear selection. You hear the one as you pull to a stop, because the road and engine noise are minimal at this low speed. Losing overdrive and third gear Believe it or not, this is a sign of good design. Rather than having the engine shut down completely, Chrysler designed a "limp home mode" which causes the transmission to only use first and second, as a very visible sign that something is wrong. The immediate reaction should be checking the computer for error codes and changing the transmission fluid. If that fails, it could be a sensor problem or an internal problem. Suggestion is usually to chnage the fluid and filter (maybe flush the fluid too) and make sure that you use the correct amount of the appropriate chrysler fluid - DO NOT USE ANYONE ELSE'S FLUID! More four-speed automatic repairs and do it yourself guides [See the earlier tips about replacing the hubs with updated dealer parts]

Step by step solenoid pack cleaning or rebuilding (with photos) Checking the computer for error codes Choosing and flushing transmission fluid Fixing the torque converter lockup circuit Swapping transmissions: putting a good one into your car Adding a transmission fluid cooler
Reader experiences and testimonials

How the Ultradrive was fixed (Chris Theodore interview)

Steve Knickerbocker wrote: A rebuild kit for the A413 trans is less than $60, the book on how to rebuild them is about $20. Even if you actually bought each of the special tools specified in the book, not needed but handy, you would still come in way under $1900. I rebuild my own transmissions and even the four-speeds arent hard, but they have to be spotlessly clean when you put them back together. Most of the A604 shifting issues are a clogged solenoid pack, about $60 for a new one, or an older software version which any dealer should be able to update. Posthumous advice Jim, the owner of Gene Poon's transmission shop, died of cancer some years ago. Jim knew his customers, and when Gene bought his used Intrepid, he first asked Jim about the status of the 604/Ultradrive. Jim assured him the early problems were solved, and Gene has been happy with his Intrepid since but Jim sent Gene a script for customers buying new or used Chryslers. [We've shortened this notice substantially, partly due to the passage of time.]

CONGRATULATIONS, NEW CHRYSLER OWNER!

Some advice on the 4-speed automatic transmission:

This transmission, which is used in virtually ALL Chrysler Corporation [Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge] cars and minivans, got a bad reputation early on for poor reliability. The weaknesses in the transmission have been fixed. But there is something which is the OWNER'S responsibility to see to: the proper care and feeding of this transmission. Observe the "Severe Service" maintenance schedule. Use, or have your mechanic use, only a QUALITY transmission filter when the transmission is serviced. The best is a genuine Chrysler MOPAR filter. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE. Some aftermarket filters, though they fit, are actually Universal types intended to fit several different transmissions. Some have the same filter in boxes with different numbers! In the case of the MOPAR ones, every one is different! Use, or have your mechanic use, ONLY the correct transmission fluid. Quaker State and Pennzoil make a fluid which is compatible. It is also OK. Some Chrysler owner's manuals say that you can use DEXRON if the 7176 fluid is not available. DO NOT DO IT! If the [correct] fluid costs more (it does, about 50-60 cents a quart), PAY IT. If you need to add a pint of fluid and [the correct fluid] is not available, drive a few miles to the next place which has it. This will be less harm than using DEXRON. If a mechanic says he can substitute a little DEXRON and it won't do any harm, LEAVE! [and never come back] If someone says he can use DEXRON plus an "anti-friction additive" in your Chrysler transmission, LEAVE! If somebody puts DEXRON in, take it to a shop which uses [the right fluid], and have them drain the ENTIRE transmission, and refill with [the right fluid]. This will cost about $160.

Chrysler automatic transmission repair: solenoid pack rebuilding

by Jeremy Schrag

Anybody who ever stood on a street corner in the early nineties waiting for pedestrian signals to change knows what the infamous Chrysler A-604 (a/k/a 41TE) solenoid pack sounds like. Bzzzztick! Over time, this sound became so common that it was at one point abnormal not to hear it. Still, as time went on, Chrysler decided to do something about this and started making these solenoid packs with better sound shielding. By the time 1996 came around, you had to hold an ear right up

next to the transmission to hear it. Why am I waxing nostalgic about the annoying buzzing sounds the older A604 solenoid packs make? Bear with me a moment, if you will. In 2008, I finally found myself the luxury vehicle I had always wanted - an Imperial, 1992 vintage, in Surrey, BC. The first thing I looked at when evaluating the car was the state of the transmission fluid. What I found was some very dirty ATF+3 that fortunately did not smell burned. Reasoning that all the car needed was fresh transmission fluid, I took a chance on the car and bought it. The symptoms appear: hard shifts, slipping The drive home through the mountains revealed issues. The car shifted pretty well, but would slam in and out of overdrive in the mountains when transitioning between downhill and uphill climbs. Most other shifts were noticeable enough that I knew I needed to address the situation immediately when I got home. And so I did. Going by the guide found elsewhere on this site, I replaced the transmission filter and flushed out all the old, dirty ATF+3 in favor of new ATF+4. Observing that the old fluid was visibly full of metallic particles, and the magnet in the pan had a big metal afro thing going on, I realized that I was probably not out of the woods yet. However, three of the pan bolts were stripped, hinting that the pan had been off before for service. There was still hope. With the new fluid in, the transmission shift quality was vastly improved, but not all the way better. I quickly began to notice it still had minor issues. When the fluid was cold, the transmission would ever so slightly hesitate on its first few 1-2 and 2-1 shifts of the day. That first winter, it would slip at stop signs. And so, I did another fluid and filter change once spring came calling again, opting for just a pan drop rather than a full flush. I discovered almost as much material on the pan magnet as I had seen the first time I did the job. Clearly, my initial flush didn't get all the debris circulating through the transmission. I went out and found an updated TCM, part number 4796124, and dropped that in, too. That's where my transmission stopped making progress, and led me on the path to this article. The new fluid and TCM did nothing more for the early morning shifting quirks my A604 was still exhibiting. I sat down to think about this... what could be causing the car to shift like new with the fluid at operating temperature, and yet be so reluctant on its first 1-2 of the day? Couldn't be the speed sensors, I had just cleaned them of their debris. It had to be a low fluid pressure situation. Either the seals were leaky, the pump was lazy, the cooler was blocked, the hoses were kinked, or something else was to blame. Further troubleshooting and the solution I began to rule things out. To eliminate bad seals, I added Lucas transmission fix, which has been known to help A604's with bad seals. This did next to nothing. Initially, it would seem like it was helping, and then the unit would go right back to the way it was before. I checked the cooler hoses - not kinked. I stuck the return hose in a clear bottle and watched as I ran the engine - nice flow. I had the CVI values scanned - well in spec. No transmission trouble codes. What else could it be? Was there anything else I could try without having the unit yanked and rebuilt? Then one day, I went for a drive. I normally drive with the automatic temperature control (ATC) system on all the time, so I rarely use the windows. But on this lovely day, it was so nice outside I wanted to enjoy it. I buzzed the windows down, shut off the ATC, and shifted into reverse. BRAAAACK! I sat there for a moment, stunned. Was that my solenoid pack? I shifted into park, then back to reverse. Yes, that was indeed my solenoid pack. I knew that the solenoid pack had little filter screens in it to help keep the nasty stuff in the fluid from going any further into the transmission, but like many people I had been told that these rarely need replacement and did not really contain any serviceable parts. It was something I just hadn't considered as part of the problem. Master Tech Chris Taurman wrote, some years ago: Do not take solenoid packs apart. This alters the calibration of the unit! If the filters are plugged up, replace i t! We leave the choice up to you. This article is useful either way in showing how to remove and replace solenoid packs. So, we finally get to the point of this article. I had two choices - either I could replace the pack or

get inside it and find out why it sounded like an Uzi. Replacing it would be expensive, but would get me the newer, quieter style pack. On the other hand, if I could just find those little filter screens brand new by themselves, maybe I could save some money and have some fun by taking the thing apart and seeing how it worked. I hit eBay, looking for the filter screens. I knew that they could be cleaned, but reasoned that new screens were probably an even better idea. That's when I found this:

Yes indeed, I found a rebuild kit for the A604/A606 (41TE/42LE) solenoid pack. There were two varieties - late 80s and early 90s, and 2000+ for the newer vehicles out there. Since I was rebuilding one from a 1992 Imperial, I bought the one above. Let me show you what was inside the bag.

Two gaskets for the pack mounting surface and separator plate, eight little filter screens, two gaskets for the internal parts, three rubber clapper valve seals, three new clapper valve springs, and a new orange gasket for the pack connector. [Note: Marcos wrote that the clapper valves are the pressure switches, and Jeremy later wrote that, when the valves open, oil pressure pushes these and forces the brass plugs up to the metal rings to be grounded.] Installing the solenoid pack rebuild kit Now, I'll show you just how to do the job. This only applies to the A604 and 41TE; those of you with an A606/42LE will have to take extra steps to remove your valve body to gain access to your solenoid pack. The rebuilding process should be similar once you get to it, however.

Here, I've moved my radiator overflow tank and cruise control servo out of the way for better access. My solenoid pack has already been disconnected - you will need an 8mm nut driver or socket wrench to do that. As you can see, I've already begun cleaning around the area. And I need to stress this right now - the A604 likes cleanliness as much as a hospital surgeon does. You do not want any kind of dirt getting down into the transmission case when the pack comes off, and there are lots of places where that dirt can collect, both in front of and behind the solenoid pack. Clean, clean, clean around this area. Clean the hoses, the wires, the mounting brackets, and anything else immediately above the pack to make sure nothing goes awry when the pack comes off. When you're done, clean it all again. Me, I used Brakleen on the case followed by several sprays from the hose. I repeated this process several times, wiping things off with shop towels as I went. The above shot was taken in between cleanings. Once everything has had a chance to dry, remove the input speed sensor, indicated by the red arrow. You need a 1" socket, a deep one, to do it. Mine came out of there with a generous coating of metal shavings, so I cleaned it off well. Then I cleaned inside the mounting hole. Then I pulled out the output speed sensor and cleaned that, too. There's really no such thing as "too clean" when you're dealing with an A604. The yellow arrows indicate the long 10mm bolts that hold the pack to the transmission. It is the sheer length of these bolts that require you to remove the input speed sensor - they are very long indeed, and that middle one won't come out (or go back in) if the speed sensor is still there blocking it.

Here's a close-up of the input speed sensor, freshly cleaned. It looks nothing like the output speed sensor, so there's not too much chance of confusing them.

The pack shouldn't put up too much of a fight when it comes off. The gaskets are all that holds it down, at least in my case. Once it does come off, be ready with the shop towels. Wipe any dirt and grime on the mounting surface away from the holes. Remove any bits of gasket that might be trying to hang around. If you think any dirt got down inside the holes, don't fool around - get the shop vac and get it out of there. Yes, you will make a mess of your shop vac that way, but it's better than making a mess of the valve body, no? The solenoid pack is downstream from the pump and filter. Any dirt that gets in these holes goes right into the valve body and then through the rest

of the transmission before it gets back to the pan. You don't want that. Take no chances. Once everything was clean, I found it easy to place a big wad of shop towels down on the mounting area, held down with the socket I used to remove the speed sensor, to keep the area clean while I worked on the pack. I reinstalled the speed sensor finger tight so I could easily remove it again later for solenoid pack re-installation. Though you can't easily tell by the above picture, the area the pack mounts to is sloped down toward the transmission. Any fluid will run down toward the curved lip, like that bead of transmission fluid you see above.

Now that the pack is off, remove the separator plate and clean all surfaces. You want it clean enough to eat off of. Above, I've placed the pack so that you can see where all the little filter screens go, indicated by the red arrows. These are press fit in place. Remove them. We'll replace them after we get the rest of the pack apart and clean everything up. No sense replacing them without making sure we've cleaned everything we can reach. Note that when you replace the screens, it is wise to do so with the little black plastic legs oriented so that they don't obstruct the flow of fluid. See those oblong holes in the bottom of the pack? They are there because some of the holes in the transmission and separator plate don't line up with the holes in the pack. The fluid has to follow the oblong channels in the pack - it's best not to block it in any way with those little filter legs. This should help the pump maintain proper fluid pressure through the transmission.

A quick up close shot of the filters that came out of my solenoid pack. Three of them were particularly dirty, and I've arrowed them in red. Most of the others had metallic debris collected near the tips. You can indeed clean these filters and return them to the pack, but I had new ones so I tossed these old ones.

To get the pack apart, there are six Torx T-25 screws to remove, held in place with green threadlocker. Once they come out, the pack will separate itself thanks to the pressure from the three valve springs you see arrowed in red in the above picture (one went AWOL as soon as it came apart). In the case of my pack, I found that the above section - lid and middle - wanted to come off as a unit when the screws came out. Be very, very careful as you gently work the coils off the poles inside the pack. There will be some residual magnetism in the pack, and the four metal paddles you see indicated in green above will try to drag some tiny valve pieces out of the pack. Do not lose those. You need them.

Another thing to watch out for are the clapper valves. Indicated in red, they just sit there when the pack comes apart. Don't lose any part of those, either. Before we go any further, take a look at the four poles in there, over which the coils sit. See the debris on them? That's all metallic residue. My solenoid pack was filthy with this stuff. Remember, these packs work using electromagnetism. If your fluid is allowed to get dirty enough, the solenoid pack will start acting like the pan magnet. That is why my solenoid pack was so noisy... it's been hoarding worn clutch material.

An extreme close-up of a valve assembly. See that little triangular metal valve piece? Normally, those sit all the way down in those holes on their beveled heads. I've posed this one so that you

can see how they go down into the valves, because these are the very pieces that try to come out with the upper part of the assembly when it all comes apart. They are very small. Again... don't lose them. A point of interest - the cover on the solenoid pack stated that taking the thing apart would alter the calibration of the unit. Replace instead of repair. I have to say... I don't get it. The parts affected by the rebuild kit are all the same... there's nothing to calibrate. The four little valve pieces like the one pictured above are identical - they interchange. The clapper valves interchange. The filters and gaskets interchange. Perhaps they are referring to the remaining valve pieces being held in by those brackets in the picture, I don't know. I didn't get that far into it.

Now that everything's been taken apart and thoroughly cleaned, it's time to start using the new parts. Above, you see the major components of the clapper valves. The brass piece on the right is held inside the round metal valve on the left by one of those three springs that pushed the pack apart earlier. A little rubber seal separates the two parts.

Here, I've removed the rubber seal. It presses down into the valve with the lip facing the indentation, seen here with some red transmission fluid collected in it. Replacing these rubber pieces is fantastically easy. Pry the old ones out, push the new ones in, set the brass pieces back in the middle. Done.

Now, we get even further into the pack. The cover has to come off, as you see above. In the top half of the picture are the resistors and contacts where the coils connect. It's not a bad idea to take your ohmmeter or multimeter and check the continuity on these coils while you're in here. You should observe about 1.8 ohms per coil. If you find one shorted, replace the whole pack - if you put it back in, it will probably fry the TCM and drop you into limp mode. Likewise, if you find one open, also replace the pack or you'll again get limp mode. But then, these problems should manifest themselves long before you actually get inside the pack. It's not that easy to do any real damage in here. Note that the black piece has rubber gaskets around the edge on both sides. Replace them using the parts from the rebuild kit.

It's time to start putting things back together. In this shot, everything has been cleaned up and the unit is ready for reassembly. The four valve pieces indicated in blue are all in place and accounted for. The three clapper valves in red have been reassembled and set in place. Take the black piece, coils facing down, and gently work it down into place. Go slowly - the coils are socketed into the black piece, and it's easy to to knock them askew. If that happens, the metal bars below them - the ones the coils magnetize to activate the blue arrowed valves - will move out of place and aggravate you when you try to get them to go back where they belong.

If you did it right, you should see the above view. Look down through the three clapper valve spring holes (red arrows) and make sure those valves are still in place. Then, take your new valve springs and set them inside the holes. They should go right down and nest inside the little brass pieces of the valves. Time to put the cover back on. Gently set it in place on top of the pack. The springs will keep it from going all the way down, but that's okay for now. Using threadlocker on the six Torx screws I used the blue stuff not having any green - press down on the cover, and get all six screws started. Then, tighten them down firmly. I could not find a torque spec for these screws, but I don't think it's necessary. As long as they're hand tight with a decent screwdriver, they shouldn't go anywhere. Especially with threadlocker.

One last step remains at this point, unless you waited until now to put the new filter screens in. Replace the connector gasket with the new one from the rebuild kit. As you can see, my old one is in bad shape, with a large crack above the round bolt hole. I actually found transmission fluid in there once. Now, there's only one thing left to do - put the pack back on the transmission, using the new gaskets supplied. Don't forget the separator plate, if you have one. Torque the mounting bolts down to 105 inch pounds, double checking the torque on all three before you reinstall the input speed sensor and reconnect the pack. You are probably wondering by now what the result of all this work has been on my 1992 Imperial. Did it improve things? Yes. It did improve things, rather noticeably in fact. My pack is much quieter now, making the familiar bzzzz-tick it's supposed to make. No more machine guns under my hood. But what about my shifting quirks? Has this experiment done anything to alleviate those? Well... yes and no. If the car has been sitting for days, those initial cold 1-2 shifts are still a little lazy. "Ho-hum, I guess I'd better shift now. I wanted to sleep in, but apparently the driver wants to go faster." However, if the car has not been sitting for days, has been used as recently as the day before, the cold start hesitation is gone. It's just a bit slow on the very first 1-2, but there's no major hesitation all the way to the post office like there used to be. The transmission used to bump shift when braking to a stop downhill at very low speeds. That's been improved too - it still does it, but not as often. I suspect this is more than likely due to the speed sensors re-accumulating metal shavings, however, rather than low fluid pressure. Highway performance is both the same and different. This car with ATF+4 has always shifted like butter at highway speeds, and it still shifts like butter at operating temperature. But somehow, it feels different. Perhaps this is because the TCM now needs to re-adapt to a clean solenoid pack, I don't know. I'm still not out of the woods yet on this car. As long as its shifting quirks are still there, I'll be looking for ways to fix it affordably. I'm allergic to rebuilders... I want to keep this A604 on the road as long as possible before I have to talk to one. My next step will be to remove the Lucas from the fluid by flushing it all out of there. I'm still dealing with a low pressure situation that is likely not the result of the bad seals Lucas is supposed to help with, and I can't have anything in there like Lucas that might thicken the ATF+4 when it's cold. Also, there is still a real possibility that there are lots of metal particles still circulating through the system, from back when the car had the dirty ATF+3. The main filter could be clogged yet again, for all I know, even though I've only put 18,000 kilometers on this car since I bought it. At any rate, I do have to conclude that rebuilding my solenoid pack made a difference with my cold shifting issues. At the very least, it's quieter than it used to be - it will no longer scare small

children when I pull up to the ice cream shop. That's not a bad thing.

Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge Computer Codes

Chrysler Corporation (including Dodge and Plymouth) vehicles with fuel injection, like all current computer-controlled vehicles, watch their own behavior and set "error codes" when they see something which is not as it should be. Computers only do what you tell them, so they might not see problems which do exist, or they might see problems that do not exist, or they might indicate a problem which is in reality caused by some other component. They work is by checking their inputs against each other - for example, if the voltage coming from the oxygen sensor is not what it expects given where the throttle is, how fast the engine is moving, etc., it will post an error code and, in some cases, light up a warning lamp on the instrument panel.

All Cars at Allpar

Dealers have sophisticated computers which plug into your car's computer and can gain massive amounts of information; but backyard mechanics can also benefit from knowing what the computer thinks is wrong (since it's often right), especially given that those well-equipped dealers often have dishonest and poorly-trained mechanics. Please read all the bullets before zooming to the codes. Thanks.

When the computer indicates major failure, it can activate Limp In mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure, allowing you to get the car to a mechanic. One major symptom of this is the transmission sticking in second gear. This is a feature! A loose gas cap may light up the Check Engine light! (Thanks, Lyn Clark)

On older cars (1980s-1990s) Instructions and codes Late-1990s and newer cars You may want to invest in an OBD compatible code reader. They're inexpensive and some can record sensor readings and save them to a file, making diagnosis easier. This is the code list. That said, many Chrysler cars, vans, and trucks will show you codes without any readers.

Codes are displayed on the odometer. On some cars, the codes will read out if the engine light is on - all you have to do is put the key into the RUN position. Normally, to get codes, you put the key on OFF and then rapidly do OFFON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (on some cars you have to do four or five, not three, OFF-ON cycles). On our test 2002 car, the key did not go back to unlock, so it was ACC-ON-ACC-ON-ACC-ON. You may have to set the parking brake first (Thanks, Steven Midway) 1998-2002 (maybe more) Dodge trucks and Jeeps, put transmission in neutral, parking brake on, then do the acc-run key sequence 3 times ending with RUN. Dan Stewart wrote about the 1999+ Voyager/Caravan:
o

Get Diagnostic Trouble Codes by placing the key into the ignition. Push and hold the both the "Trip" and the "Reset" buttons with the left hand and turn the key to the "ACC" position (first position

between "LOCK" and "RUN"). Continue to hold both buttons in and count to 5. Release both buttons, display should read trip mileage instead of total mileage. Push the "TRIP" button and the odometer will display DTC'S in rotating sequence instead of displaying total mileage.
Resetting the computer The computer will eventually reset itself; you can also use a scan tool. (See our transmission repair page for information on resetting the computer's transmission information.) Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes resets the computer, but loses clock and other settings. Sid Willoughby wrote: To clear the check engine light on a 2002 Dodge Ram once the problem is resolved. Start the engine and drive forward then in reverse (you only have to move the truck a few feet in each direction) the turn the ignition off. Do this sequence three times. When you start the vehicle the fourth time the check engine light should go out. (This procedure may work on other vehicles.) The code lists

A common code now is P0513 - as far as we know, it just means the theft prevention system misread the Sentry Key radio code in your key (or that you put the wrong key in the ignition!). These keys were used starting in 1998. P-style computer error codes (late 1990s and newer), which apply to vehicles made in the late 1990s and in the 2000s. Climate control error codes 1980s-1990s codes. You can find out by trial and error which list is right for you. The older codes were two digits; the newer codes start with a P and have more digits.

Changing Automatic Transmission Fluid

Voyager transmission fluid change and band adjustment

Lane MacFarlane wrote:

I changed

the fluid and filter, and adjusted the bands on our 1985 Voyager (2.6L, A470 3-speed, 118,000 miles). The fluid was no longer bright red, but tired dark reddish brown. No burned smell, no flakes, no particles, so that's good! I suspect (as the second owner) this is the first transmission fluid change it's ever had. The purpose in posting this note is to encourage anyone with an A470/A413 (3 speed 2.6L or 2.2L) to change the fluid and filter if they think it's time. No need to pay someone else $35 to do a half-hearted job! It's a simple, uncrowded, easy to maintain design, and if you can do a valve cover gasket on an overhead-cam engine, you can do this (in my opinion). Get that new ATF 3+ (Chrysler MS-7176, US$3.50 at my local CPJE emporium, get four or five quarts), get a real MoPar filter for US $7.95 and rubber gasket for US $1.70, and do it! [Editors note: in the years since this was posted, in the 1990s, Mopar moved to ATF+4, which is acceptable in the older transmissions.] You'll need a decent torque wrench capable of reading down to 40 in-lbs for the band adjustment and up to 175 in-lb for the pan bolts, and a factory service manual or equivalent for the torque and backoff turns figures, but that's something most of us have anyway. Also, you'll need a Torx (TM) -type screwdriver (like the one used on the headlight housings) for the filter screws. The fastener sizes quoted are for the 1985 A470, other years may be different. Watch out when you pull the pan, don't damage the sealing surface prying the pan off (do it gently and you'll be OK, it'll sort of jump loose all the sudden). Getting a premium gasket and sealing agent (if called for) is worthwhile.
One reader added: Automatic transmission gaskets should not be coated with RTV. It will cause the gasket to squeeze out from between the mating surfaces. The same applies to rocker box covers except at the point where the cylinder heads are split, and then that small area should be allowed to dry for a couple of hours before replacing the box covers which should have had the gaskets glued on with aviation type cement earlier, and dried in place by time to install. If the box cover gaskets are allowed to dry in place with the aviation type cement, a little RTV won't hurt, but it usually causes the gaskets to squeeze out from between the mating surfaces. Always use a Fel Pro type gasket. They tend to expand as they absorb oil. There is an all rubber transmission gasket available that doesn't require any cement, but an extremely light coat of RTV or sewing thread to hold in in place. Always, always re-torque the bolts a couple of times during the next month or so after installation.

Adjusting the low/reverse band is easy, you'll have to remove the parking sprag pushrod (e-clip) to gain access, then loosen the locknut with a 13mm open or box end or socket. The adjusting nut is a 6mm hex (I think that's what I used at least), torque it down carefully to the FSM spec then back it off the number of turns specified in the FSM. I painted two stripes 180 degrees apart on my 1/4" to 3/8" adapter to see when I'd gone 1/2 and one full turn. Hold the adjusting hex when you tighten the locknut so it doesn't move. Don't forget to put the parking sprag pushrod and e-clip back in! Adjusting the kickdown band is also pretty easy, it's on top of the case under the throttle cable. It uses an 18mm locknut and an 8mm hex adjuster. Use an 18mm box end to loosen and tighten the locknut. Clean the pan and case gasket surfaces thoroughly and gently so as not to gouge the aluminum of the case...a wire brush worked OK on the pan itself. Don't forget to put in the new filter and filter gasket! Clean the old residue out of the pan, and clean the magnetic residue off the ring magnet in the pan. Might as well do the differential cover gasket, too, since removing it drains the fluid out. I had a leak in the differential cover gasket anyway, so I had to do it. Watch out for the constant dripping from the case, try to keep the mating surfaces clean when you put the pan and cover back on, it'll help it seal better. If using RTV, use a 1/8" bead of RTV on the pan and cover, don't overdo it, ring the bolt holes, go slowly. Watch out for the differential cover not being aligned with the case holes, just align the cover carefully and you'll be OK. Torque the pan and cover immediately upon putting it in, to keep the dripping fluid from messing up the seal (especially on the differential cover). Above all else, keep the insides of the transmission clean, no lint. Put in the recommended quantity of fluid (4 qts US for the 1985 A470), and test it out! You'll be

rewarded with a job as good as your capabilities allow, for much less money, and with highquality parts and fluid. You'll also get a good look inside the tranny, to see what's up in there (any particles of old friction material in there, for example). Flushing the system: a more complete method

James Bottger wrote:

I just used the Transmission Flush recommendation by James Bottger and it worked perfectly. My 1993 Chrysler New Yorker tranny cooler exit line was at the top of the radiator. After about 6 quarts of old fluid coming out ot the return, we got nice, clean red fluid. With this complete flush, new ATF+4, and new Mopar filter, the shifting reurned to normal. J. Bridges, February 2010 While it's much better for the transmission to change the fluid using the method in [the above] article than it is not to change the fluid at all, this method only replaces about half of the fluid in the transmission. The best thing to do is to change out ALL of the fluid, and this is also something a person can do themselves. First, drain the fluid from the pan, just like you would using Mr. Macfairlane's procedure. Once you've replaced the filter, the pan gasket, and reinstalled the pan, you're ready for the next step. Fill the transmission to the proper level using the proper type of transmission fluid. Then disconnect the return transmission line (the line in which transmission fluid flows from the transmission cooler back to the transmission), located near the bottom of the radiator. There's two transmission lines connected in this location, and the bottom line is usually the return line. Once the line has been disconnected, attach a clear piece of tubing to the transmission cooler, the same diameter as the transmission line, approximately 5-6 feet long, using the transmission line clamp to secure it.

Russ Jennings pointed out that there is conflicting information about the location of the lines to the radiator. It is possible that the lines were rerouted over the years, or routed differently for different engines or carlines. When you route your lines, follow the original factory path.
Place the unattached end of the clear tube in a plastic, one gallon milk container and place it where it can be seen (like not under the car). For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking brake is set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be put into "Drive" so the torque converter fluid is changed as well. Some transmissions will only circulate fluid through the torque converter only in drive. This especially applies to the electronically controlled transmissions. [Craig Sherman noted that Drive is needed for most transmissions, based on technical manuals] After approximately 4 to 5 quarts (obviously, if it's more than 4 quarts, you'll have to turn of the engine, and fetch another milk jug) of fluid have been pumped out, you should notice a change in the color of the fluid. It should go from a brownish red color, to a bright pinkish red color. When this happens, all of the old fluid has been replaced with new fluid. Be careful not to overfill the tranny during this procedure. When completed, reconnect the transmission return line to the transmission cooler. Check the fluid level as you normally would, and add fluid as required. This fluid change method is twice as good for your transmission as the method of only changing out half of the fluid is. Happy shifting!

Another system for changing automatic transmission fluid James Dement provided the following: Here is a simple way to change the transmission fluid in your Chrysler that doesn't even require you to crawl under the vehicle. I learned that I can use about 6 or 8 ft. of clear vinyl tubing - probably only 1/8" or 3/16" ID. The type of low cost tubing you can get at your local home improvement or hardware store. What I've been using is actually the leftover home oxygen supply line from my late Aunt who had to use oxygen in her last year. She left us an abundant supply of this tubing. I stick the clean tubing all the way down into the dip stick opening until it clearly is on bottom. Then I start a siphon by sucking on the tubing. You can easily see the reddish colored fluid moving up the tubing and towards you. When the fluid gets a few inches from the end you simply place the end into your container and the siphon action will do the rest. I've done this on my Grand Caravan (A604) twice now and a relative's Dodge Shadow. If you are a reader of this site you already know which fluid you should be using - so pay the extra $1 per quart and use it. Last year I got 4 qrts. out before the fluid stopped flowing. This year I got out 6+ quarts of fluid in total. I think I could have gotten more if I'd wanted to. Of course this method doesn't address the filter inside the pan. Next time I will do the traditional change and replace the filter as well. But for those of us who have been through the rebuilding process once (or twice) and have started to change our fluid more often, this is a convenient way to change the fluid without getting under the vehicle. It will take all night and maybe a full 24 hrs. It is sort of like watching grass grow so don't waste time watching just check on it a couple of times during the day to make sure it is still flowing. When it stops you can easily tell from looking at the clear tubing. If the siphon stops after 3 or 4 quarts, I've found if you reposition the tubing and start again you may get another quart or two. Also, don't let the container you're going into with the old fluid get too high or the siphon could slow. Try this if you've been putting off changing that transmission fluid. It takes only a few dollars of tubing, little time to start and only a few minutes of clean up. Do take that old fluid to a recycle center for proper disposal. How many fluid changes? People on the EEK mailing list discussed the issue of how many fluid changes are needed. Mathematically or in practice, two changes - three at most - seem to be enough. On the other hand, one complete flush may be best. Ultradrive (41TE) transmission fluid flush by Ted Mittelstaedt Today I flushed my A604/41TE Ultradrive transmission in my 95 Chrysler Town & Country. I followed the general idea that James Bottger outlined. I started with a case (12 quarts) of Valvoline ATF +3 and a transmission filter kit. This kit contained the filter and a new pan gasket. The fluid replaced from the pan itself was 4 quarts, and I flushed the rest of the case through the dipstick while the transmission was pumping the old fluid out the transmission return line. Total cost of the fluid and kit was about $45. The flushing process from start to finish including road testing took 3 hours.

Russ Jennings pointed out that there is conflicting information about the location of the lines to the radiator. It is possible that the lines were rerouted over the years, or routed differently for different engines or carlines. When you route your lines, follow the original factory path. Alternatively, and preferably, check the factory service manual.
There were a couple things I noticed. First, there's an O ring that comes with the new pan filter -

make sure this is on the filter when you install it. Also when installing the new filter, it takes quite a firm push to get the filter snapped in. Next, I disconnected the return line at the transmission itself, not the radiator. This gave me existing rubber lines to use so I didn't have to muck with plastic tubing. It also turned out to be a very good idea because in the process I discovered that the cooling lines were REVERSED!! This is absolutely terrible because if this is done the tranny fluid gets little additional cooling and the tranny will fail quite quickly. This is particularly critical with this tranny cooler because unlike a more traditional downflow radiator where the tranny cooler is horizontal at the bottom, (and thus gets better cooling) the radiator on my van is a crossflow and the tranny cooler is vertical. It's worth noting that the tranny cooler in the radiator in this design is already really bad to start with because of this. Frankly, if Chrysler had simply dispensed with the tranny cooler in the radiator and put an airflow tranny cooler in the front of the radiator, I am sure that two thirds of the Ultradrive complaints would never have happened. INSTALL AN AUXILIARY TRANNY COOLER IF YOU OWN ONE OF THESE VANS! A Controversy Actually, the cooler was hooked-up correctly as the author originally found it. The hot fluid leaving the transmission must enter the cooler at the bottom where the cooler is coolest and exit to return to the transmission at the top where the cooler is warmest. This seems backwards but there is a reason for it. The transmission fluid must be cool but not too cool. If the fluid is too cool, transmission shift performance will suffer. You will notice this on a cold winter morning when the transmission seems to take forever to upshift. Having the fluid leave the cooler at the top ensures that it will be warm enough to allow the transmission to function properly. Also, when adding an auxiliary transmission cooler, the auxiliary cooler is placed in series with the regular cooler but before the regular cooler so that the regular cooler may warm up the fluid sufficiently before sending it immediatly back to the transmission. - Carl H., Rochester, MI Ted replies: I very strongly object to this for the following reasons: 1) The 1995 Chrysler factory service manual for the Town & Country, Caravan, and Voyager on page 7 - 19 has a picture of the radiator. The oil nipple for the transmission cooler at the TOP of the radiator is labeled "INLET" The oil nipple for the transmission cooler at the BOTTOM of the radiator is labeled "RETURN" This is in conflict with Carl's claim that the "hot fluid leaving the transmission must enter the cooler at the bottom" 2) Carl's claim that: "when adding an auxiliary transmission cooler, the auxiliary cooler is placed in series with the regular cooler but before the regular cooler" is in direct conflict with page 7 - 22 of the already cited Factory Service Manual. I quote from the section marked "HEAVY DUTY TRAILER TOW" "this style oil cooler is an external oil-to-air type mounted ahead of the radiator (Fig. 8). This style cooler uses rubber oil lines to feed oil from the internal cooler to the external and then to the automatic transmission." 3) Carl claims that: "Having the fluid leave the cooler at the top ensures that it will be warm enough to allow the transmission to function properly" Let me point out that on a cold winter morning that the thermostat in the cooling system is CLOSED until the engine warms up. This can take some time in the winter, upwards of 5-10 minutes. During this time the water in the radiator is NOT circulating, thus it is cold, thus the radiator is not "making the trans fluid warm enough to allow the transmission to function properly" no matter which way the fluid lines are plugged in. Carl does have a point that temperature affects the fluid characteristics, and this has an effect on the transmission. But Chrysler also knew about this. As a result the trans computer decides shift points based on a number of factors ONE OF WHICH is ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE, NOT TRANSMISSION OIL TEMPERATURE. This is discussed on page 21-60 of the FSM. The trans computer will not allow the trans to go into overdrive until the engine coolant temperature is high enough. That is why it takes forever to upshift on cold winter mornings. The only thing that all this might indicate is that if your regularly driving in sub-zero temperatures you might think twice about adding an external transmission cooler. I will go further and state that there is a myth that trans fluid must be 'hot.' My guess is the optimal range is just high enough so that any water that gets in the fluid rapidly evaporates, and that the

trans housing is warmer than atmosphere, so that condensation does not form. But even 100 degrees is plenty hot enough for this. Trans fluid does not have combustion gasses passing through it, so there is no introduction of varnishes and other gook that will jam up valves and such, where that stuff will be boiled off if the fluid is up at 200 degrees so you have an advantage of it being hot. When many materials espically aluminum are heated they get softer and weaker, and the shearing effect in the trans torque converter is a heat generator anyway. Many people have said in many forums how when front wheel drive became popular that transmissions didn't have the lifespan they used to - I wonder considering that in a FWD car the trans is in the engine compartment, not hanging off behind, if some of this is due to an average increase in temperature of the transmissions. In my 41TE, there are two cooling oil fittings on the side of the tranny facing forward, one is from the tranny and the fluid comes out there, (I'll call it the output) the other goes back to the pan and the fluid is returned there. (the input) The input is the port CLOSEST to the engine, the output is the FURTHEST from the engine. On the radiator, there's a transmission cooler which is immersed in the vertical tank on the drivers side of the radiator - it also has an input and an output port. On this cooler the input is at the TOP and the output is at the BOTTOM. The reason for this is that the water in the radiator at the top is hotter - because the top radiator hose from the engine is the cooling water output on the engine. Water in the radiator flows from top to bottom, the water at the bottom is the coolest and so for maximum heat transfer you want the tranny fluid exiting the tranny cooler in the radiator where the radiator is coldest. For stock setups, the output port on the tranny, furthest from the engine, is plumbed to the TOP of the radiator tranny cooler, and the BOTTOM of the radiator tranny cooler is plumbed to the tranny input line - closest to the engine. Now, my T&C had the "factory towing" package on it (it's a dealer-added item) which consists of a Mopar trailer hitch, 2 leaf helper springs added to the rear springs, and an auxiliary transmission cooler. The cooler was plumbed in series with the radiator tranny cooler thusly - instead of the output line from the radiator tranny cooler at the bottom going straight back the the tranny, it went to the auxiliary tranny cooler then from there back to the tranny input. This is so that the fluid can be further cooled after exiting the radiator tranny cooler. If these lines are reversed, as they were in my van, with the output line from the tranny connected to the auxiliary cooler and then to the bottom of the radiator, the tranny fluid exiting the top of the radiator tranny cooler with be much hotter, and in addition the cooling of the auxiliary tranny cooler could even be completely negated. Two more pieces of advice. First, the speed at which the tranny pumps out fluid is very rapid, probably a quart every 10-15 seconds. Use a funnel that has a neck that is almost as wide as the dipstick - you're going to be dumping fluid in there as fast as it will pour out of the quart bottles. Lastly, KEEP TRACK OF YOUR FLUID VOLUMES! What I did is I vented the old fluid into plastic oil pans. I used a milk jug and repeatedly filled it with water and emptied it into the plastic oil pans then used white paint to make gallon marks on the inside of the oil pans where the water level was. (obviously I then dumped the water out) This way when the tranny was in Neutral and idling and fluid was pouring out of the output line into the plastic pan, I could easily look down through the engine compartment and see the paint marks on the pan and get a idea as to how fast I needed to dump the new fluid into the dipstick. Chrysler - Dodge - Plymouth automatic transmission adjustment Jafscar wrote: On the (three-speed) A413s, that there are 2 bands that all the books recommend be adjusted during fluid changes. One is easily accessible from outside the transaxle casing and in fact can really be adjusted at any time. The other one (low-reverse band) is much more problematic in adjusting since it requires removal of the transmission oil pan to access and MAY also require removal of the filter, parking rod e-clip and parking rod in order to gain sufficient clearance to adjust. In addition to this it also requires the use of a precision torque wrench since that the books state the inner bolt has to be tightened to 41-inch lbs before backing it off the recommended number of turns and tightening the lock bolt down to its specified torque.

Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge Four-Speed Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Disabling
Craig Sherman's guide to fixing torque converter lockup problems Version 2
Torque converter shudder is a very common issue with the A604 transmission. Previously I had designed a circuit to disable lock up operation with solves the shudder problem. You can see that article on this page, below. The only drawback to my initial design was that fuel economy suffered as well as transmission fluid temperature increased. I now have a new version that will eliminate the shudder, and still allow lock up to engage eliminating the drawbacks. After much testing I discovered what really causes the torque converter shudder on or about 38 MPH. The torque converter lock up clutch is not getting enough hydraulic pressure to fully engage, and it slips at 38 MPH. The solenoid that controls it is continuously pulse modulated on and off keeping the average pressure low. It never allows full pressure when the speed of the vehicle is below 42 MPH. It then slips, and shudders. This usually occurs after the TC clutch is worn a bit. This symptom goes away at about 42 MPH or so when the computer decides to keep the solenoid on without pulsing it. The occurrence of this symptom is influenced by load, temperature, and wear of the TC clutch and other transmission components. This issue is caused by the Transmission Controller itself. Its behavior is contrary to what is described in the Tech Tran manual. Full lockup is never achieved below 42 MPH. It is a bug in the firmware, as confirmed by Mopar Tech Support. I confirmed that the transmission computer in my vehicle never engages full pressure to the lock up clutch until 42 MPH or so using a scope. I spoke to several people at Mopar about this, and they said it can be solved by a firmware update to the transmission computer. This option is not readily available to most people since a lot of dealers no longer have the necessary equipment to do it. It will also most likely cost you some money if your dealer happens to still have the necessary equipment. (I spent a lot of time on this issue, and finally gave up on the dealers in my area.) My new circuit eliminates the shudder issue without a firmware update. The theory is simple. When ALL of the following conditions are met, the solenoid that controls the lockup is turned full on (not pulsed).

1. Transmission is in third or fourth gear. ( OD pressure switch is closed ) 2. Lockup enable switch mounted on dashboard is ON. 3. Either a pulsed or constant PWM signal is present on the LU/LR solenoid output of the transmission computer.
When driving at speeds between 38 MPH and 42 MPH (or so) the LU/LR solenoid output of the computer is pulsing on and off. This is detected by my circuit which then disconnects the LU/LR solenoid from its normal port on the computer and parallels it to the OD solenoid output port (that solenoid is conveniently being held full on while in 3rd or 4thgear) which is NOT pulsed. The lockup clutch is now given full pressure, and no slip. You may actually feel it engage, just like another shift point. Note to the techies out there: The computer is always using PWM to control solenoid current. The pulsing I refer to is the PWM being turned on and off. This can be easily verified with a scope. NEVER ground any of the solenoid wires as it will burn it out. The solenoid coils are 2.5 ohms. Building this circuit will require cutting into the harness that plugs into the transmission computer. You also must be willing to build and install this circuit entirely at your own risk. Neither Allpar nor the Author cannot be held liable for any damage or inoperability you may experience. This circuit has worked fine for me for two years now. I cannot guarantee you will have the same results. This circuit was built and installed on a 1994 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3L V6. All of the parts for the circuit can be purchased at Radio Shack. The relays are 12V DPDT type. You should have a good understanding of electronics to build this, or be really brave. If you need

help, find someone who have some electronics experience. I highly recommend that you read my previous article (which follows this one) so you can understand the theory of operation, and will understand why a third relay is used with only its coil connected. (I am sure the techie people out there will be asking) Simply connect all parts according to the schematic below. I recommend that all connections be soldered and heat shrink tubing used for all splices. Put the relays in a water tight box. The switch to enable/disable lockup is mounted on the dashboard with a simple toggle switch. When the switch is in the off position, lock up operation is prevented. The circuit behaves like my previous version. With the switch on, lock up is enabled, with no partial lockup. (partial lockup is the cause of the shudder)

You may occasionally notice some harsh shift symptoms when the transmission is up shifting. I have investigated this, and found out that it is normal and nothing to worry about. When conditions are just right, the computer may lock up the torque converter while in third gear when driving around 25 MPH or so. If throttle position is not changed and the vehicle eventually reaches 32 MPH or so, it will go into fourth gear while the torque converter is locked up. There will be a noticeable bump since there is no fluid coupling or slipping clutch in the torque converter. Without my circuit, you never notice this since the torque converter never fully locks up in third gear. This new behavior is not bad, but actually good since nothing is slipping any more. Good luck and if you have any questions, you can contact me by clicking here. How To Disable Torque Converter Lock Up For The A604 (original version) From what I have been reading, torque converter lock up shudder seems to be quite a common issue for A604 transmissions. I had it happen to me as well, a year after I had the torque converter replaced. It was out of warranty, and I was not going to pay another $400 to have it replaced yet again. I went through all the usual methods people try to solve it, such as changing the fluid, adding friction modifiers, etc, but they were all temporary fixes at best. I asked several mechanics at different transmission shops if there was a way to disable torque converter lockup on the A604, and they all said it was impossible. They all said that the computer would detect it and go into

"limp mode." Having an electronics and computer background, I could not accept that as a final answer. I knew that there must be a way. I knew nothing at the time about the inner workings of this particular transmission, other than what I have read on allpar.com. I knew that there were solenoids. I got out my meter and started probing around. I found an eight pin connector on top of the solenoid pack, and started to check it out. Using my meter, I found that there were four solenoids, and three switches with "pull up" resistors inside the pack. At this point, I assumed that one of the solenoids must be for lock up control. One by one, I disconnected each solenoid (one at a time) and took the vehicle for a test drive. I did this for each of the four solenoids. Unfortunately, just as the mechanics told me, the transmission went into "limp mode" when any of the solenoids were disconnected. I did not want to give up, so I ordered the "Chrysler A604 Techtran Manual" from the ATSG. I found this great resource on theallpar.com web site. This technical manual was the best investment I had ever made. Using the manual, I designed a circuit to disable lockup of the torque converter, and it has worked perfectly for me for about a year now. For those interested in the theory of how my circuit works, there is an explanation at the end of this article. If you wish to try it, do it at your own risk. I highly recommend that you have a transmission cooler installed before you do this. When the torque converter does not lock up, additional heat is generated. Your gas mileage may go down. I found the mileage loss to be negligible. You must also be willing to hack into the eight pin connector that plugs into the top of the solenoid pack. It will require cutting three wires. You will splice into two of them (attach an additional wire to the existing wire) and interrupt the third. I do not recommend that you attempt this project if you do not have experience working with relays and soldering. You should know how to identify the coil wires on the relays, and the N/C, N/O, and COM connections. If you are not sure what these terms are, stop now and get someone with electrical/electronics experience to help you.

The pins on the connector you will be splicing are: 3 OD pressure switch (orange) 4 ATX 12V supply (pink or red) 7 L/R solenoid (light blue) The wiring colors listed is what I found used in my vehicle. I cannot guarantee they will be the same colors on your vehicle, but chances are they will be. It's best to take apart the connector and verify it. Below is a diagram showing pin location and numbering. This view is from looking down at the connector while it is plugged into the transmission. You are in front of the vehicle. You are looking at the wire side of the connector. You probably will want to unplug the connector and remove the plastic protective cap on it see the location of each wire. You can remove this connector with a 5/16" nut driver. Parts Needed: (2) Relays 12V SPDT, or DPDT type. Radio Shack part number 275-206 is fine. The Radio Shack relay has two sets of contacts. We will only be using one set. This relay comes

with a socket. (1) project box to put it all in. (1) toggle switch to be used as a bypass for disabling the circuit. Hardware, wires and connectors will also be needed. I recommend that all connections to the relay socket be soldered. If you are using the Radio Shack relay, you will notice that each relay has two commons, two N/C connections, and two N/O connections. It's OK to connect like terminals together on the same relay. Another words, you can join both N/C contact, join each N/O contact, and connect the two commons together. This will give you a bit more redundancy. I am now going to explain how to hook it all up. It's up to you to engineer the physical placement of the relays, routing and dressing the wires, etc. Each vehicle is different, so you will have to use your best judgment. Be sure that the relays cannot get wet (seal the box you are putting them in) or let it get too hot. The two relays are going to be referred to as relay #1 and relay #2 from this point on. Relay #1 is going to be used to interrupt the LR/LU solenoid, and relay #2 is going to be used to trick the transmission computer into thinking the LR/LU solenoid is still connected when relay #1 is engaged. Each relay has two connections for its coil. I am going to be referring to each relay's coil connections as A and B. It does not matter which terminal you name A or B, but be consistent. Polarity does not matter with relay coils. 1. Cut the wire going to pin 4 (pink or red wire) of the transmission connector. Make sure you cut it at a point giving you several inches of wire left going into the connector. Prepare a piece of red wire long enough to go to your relay box. Splice all three ends together. You have now tapped into the switched 12V supply. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER SOURCE OF 12V FOR THIS PROJECT OR IT WILL NOT WORK. 2. Connect the other end of the red wire you just added to the "A" coil connection on both Relay 1, and Relay 2. 3. Prepare an orange wire long enough to get from the transmission connector to your relay box. Just as you did in step one, cut and splice this wire to pin 3 (orange wire) of the transmission connector. You have just tapped into the OD pressure switch. 4. Connect the other end of the orange wire to the "B" coil connection on Relay 1. Do not connect it to Relay 2. 5. Now comes the fun part. Cut the wire going to pin 7 (blue) of the transmission connector. Unlike the previous steps, you will not be splicing into this wire, but extending both ends. You are going to wind up with two wires going to your relay box from the point where you cut it. Prepare a yellow and a blue wire and route both of them to your relay box. Splice one end of the yellow wire to the wire going to pin 7 of the transmission connector. Splice one end of the blue wire to the wire that used to go to pin 7. You are connecting the blue wire to the wire going back to the transmission controller. Do not connect the other ends going to the relay box just yet. 6. Install a simple on/off toggle switch at a convenient location inside the vehicle. This switch is going to be the bypass, to enable normal lockup operation for highway driving. Using a blue wire connected to one terminal, and yellow on the other terminal of the toggle switch, then route both of them to your relay box. 7. At the relay box, you should now have two blue wires and two yellow wires that are not connected. Prepare a short piece of blue wire, long enough to reach from relay 1 over to relay 2. Connect one end of the short blue wire along with the other two blue wires to the "B" coil terminal of relay 2. You should now have three wires connected at the B coil terminal. You will not be using any other connections on relay 2, other than the two coil terminals. 8. Connect the other end of the short blue wire (coming from coil terminal B of relay 2) to the common connection of relay 1. If you are using the recommended Radio Shack relay, you can connect the wire to both of the common terminals on relay 1. 9. Connect both of the two remaining yellow wires to the N/C contact on relay 1. As above, if you are using the Radio Shack relay, you can join both N/C contacts together along with the two yellow wires. 10. Seal everything up, and you are done.

Below is the electrical schematic. Please note for simplicity I am showing only one set of contacts of relay 1 in use.

If the bypass switch is turned on, normal lockup operation will occur. Only turn on the bypass switch if you intend to allow lockup when you are going to do highway driving. It's best to do this immediately after starting the vehicle. Please be aware that once the computer detects that the torque converter is not locking up (when the switch is off and you are driving above 38 MPH), an error code will be stored in the computer and the computer will not attempt lock up again even if you turn the switch back on. You must cycle ignition power to reset the computer to re-enable lock up. The switch can be turned off (to disable lock up) at any time if torque converter shudder occurs. I usually leave the switch in the bypass, or on position, and at the first sign of shudder, I turn it off. If you have any questions, you can send me an e-mail Theory of operation: This is quite techie. I wrote it assuming the reader has a knowledge of electronic theory and basic DC circuits. The A604 transmission controller uses four solenoids to control the transmission's functions. One of the four solenoids has two functions. It is called the LR/LU solenoid. Its first function is to engage the low/reverse clutch for first gear, and its second function is to engage torque converter lockup when not in first gear. Its second function is only available in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear. The function that it controls is decided by a hydraulic switch valve inside the transmission. If you wish to have further detail information on how all that works, refer to the ATSG Techtran Manual for the A604, available from JC Whitney. I very highly recommend this book. Each of the four solenoids has one end of its coil connected to a 12V supply. (called EATX) The computer "sinks" or grounds the other side of the solenoid's coil using PWM (pulse width modulation) to engage it. The end result is that the coil is pulsed on and off at a very high frequency (fast enough that the plunger will not vibrate.) This is used to control the average current through the coil. Each coil is only 3 ohms, and if you directly ground the switched side of the coil, you will burn it out. The 12V EATX supply to the solenoids is provided to pin 4 of the 8 pin connecter above the solenoid pack This is a switched supply, controlled by the computer via a relay. The transmission controller periodically checks the continuity of all the solenoids, about every ten

seconds or so. It does this by sending a quick grounding pulse to each solenoid and looks for an inductive kickback, or spike. If it does not see any inductive kickback or spike, it assumes the solenoid being tested is open or the wire going to it is disconnected. This condition will make it go into limp mode. Limp mode is only second gear and reverse. As you can now see, we cannot simply cut the wire going to that solenoid and leave it disconnected. The computer would detect this. Also, first gear would not be available. The solution is to open the circuit for the solenoid only when we are not in first gear and somehow trick the computer into thinking that the wire is still connected. Remember, when the transmission is not in first gear, the solenoid's function becomes torque converter lock up control. I solved this problem using two relays. The first relay opens the connection to the LR/LU solenoid ONLY when the transmission is in third or fourth gear. (it does not disable lockup in second gear, more on that later) The second relay serves as a decoy to make the computer think that the solenoid is still connected. Its coil is connected to the computer all of the time so the controller thinks the solenoid is still connected when it does its continuity test. The computer sees the coil of the relay, and it has similar electrical characteristics of a solenoid. We cannot substitute a resistor for the coil since the computer actually looks for an "inductive kickback" when it checks the solenoids. The first relay is a single pole double throw type. This has two coil connections, and a common, normally closed, and normally open connections. The common and normally closed contacts are put in series with the wire for the LR/LU solenoid. When the relay is not energized, the solenoid is connected. Connect the common terminal on the relay to the wire going to the harness going to the TCU, and the N/C (normally closed) terminal to the wire coming from pin 7 (light blue) from the connector on top of the solenoid pack. The relay coil is connected with one connection going to 12 volts (switched battery) (pin 4) and the other connected to the OD(3-4) pressure switch (pin 3). When the transmission is in third or fourth gear, the pressure switch closes which grounds pin 3 as well as the other end of the coil of the first relay. This makes the relay pull in and open the connection to the LR/LU solenoid, thereby preventing lock up. The second relay's coil is connected with one end going to 12 volts (switched battery pin 4) and the other end connected to the wire going to the computer that controls the solenoid. (the wire that used to go to pin 7) (Please note that the wire going to the computer was previously interrupted by relay 1. The coil wire needs to be connected to the common contact on the relay 1. You will wind up with two connections at that point. ) Do not make any other connections to this relay. ONLY the coil is being used. You may be wondering about second gear. The transmission computer is programmed to allow torque converter lock up in second gear only if the engine is excessively hot. In all my years of owning my vehicle, this has never happened. If the transmission controller does want to do lock up in second gear for example you are pulling a trailer up a hill, chances are that it will not shudder since the engine RPM will be quite high which would increase the line pressure eliminating any shudder. When you install this circuit, the transmission controller will detect that the torque converter is not locking up. It will not go into limp mode. It will store a code in the TCU indicating loss of lockup control. This is code 38, and is normal. One more method (from Andrew Dodd) There's an easier way to implement lockup disable. Most lockup torque converters disable lockup when the brakes are applied, so a safer way to disable TC lockup is to fool the TCM into thinking that the brakes are applied. Instructions on how to do this on some A604-equipped vehicles can be found here. Rather than splicing into your TCM's solenoid harness, you splice a toggle switch into one wire. I'll be installing this in my LeBaron over winter break (Not because of shudder, but for better around-town acceleration when I want it.) This also should work on A413 lockup-equipped vehicles. Important note: Craig wrote, I have tried this method before with my own vehicle and two other people's, and found that it did not work for me. After 30 seconds or so of the brake override switch (fools the computer that the brakes are on) the lockup engaged anyway. Not to mention that I was told my brake lights were also coming on when I flipped the switch. I am not saying that his method will not work at all, it simply did not work in my three cases. I am not looking for

a war, or anything like that, but just want to inform people that his method, just as mine, does not apply to all vehicles.

Swapping A-604 Automatic Transmissions from Chrysler to Chrysler

by Jeremy Schrag

The early Chrysler A-604. Rarely has such an innocuous looking collection of letters and numbers provoked such a shudder of trepidation; but this transmission was a nightmare in its early days. Introduced at the tail end of the 1980s, the 41TE, as its now known, was groundbreaking in its day. It was electronically controlled, and used clutches for shifting gears, not bands. Unfortunately, it was rushed out the door far too quickly, and used on more cars and minivans than was wise. For four years, these transmissions underwent a staggering number of part upgrades and redesigns as Chris Theodore led a team of engineers in fixing numerous small issues that together had led to big problems. They failed left and right in those days, sometimes in the middle. Countless owners were left stranded by them. Someone had decided that the transmissions could use Dexron fluid, and that someone turned out to be wrong, but not before Dexron made it into scores of owners manuals and shop literature (Chrysler was also lax in removing references to using Dexron when ATF+3 is not available.) Even today, there are still some people out there who have no idea how picky these units are, and some of them work at transmission shops. [See Chris Theodore on fixing the A-604 Ultradrive See our four-speed automatic repairs page] Long story short, things didn't get really reliable for the good old A604 until the year 2000, when ATF+4 was introduced. Earlier units could be made reliable, but the key was to change the fluid frequently and use only ATF+3 or ATF+4.

I fell victim to the reliability issues plaguing the early A-604 when I bought the car in the above picture, a silver 1992 Imperial. It had been moderately well cared for mechanically, as the previous owner was the daughter of a mechanic. Even so, the car inherited several issues from the original owner, who bought it new. The mechanics daughter didn't have it long enough for the mechanic to address all these. Indeed, he didn't even know about some of the issues I discovered. The transmission first gave me some hints of what I would be in for when I drove it back from Vancouver. I had already planned for a full ATF+4 flush and new filter once I got home, but it became clear to me once I got into the mountains that perhaps I'd gotten to this car too late for this to save the transmission. It began to harshly kick into and out of torque converter lockup. Shifting became rougher. I knew the flush would smooth things out , as the fluid was dirty and way past needing a change, but as long as I could put off the major expense of transmission surgery for a couple of years, I'd be ahead. The car was only a thousand bucks to buy and so rare in my province you're lucky to see one for sale in a year. I got the car home, then did the flush using the method found on Allpar, using 12 liters of ATF+4 and a new filter. Then, in warm weather, it shifted almost perfectly. 1-2 had a small delay, but the rest of the shifts were smooth and fast. But the huge amount of metal I'd also found on the oil pan magnet did little to make me think things were over. Sure enough, once winter came, I found some more issues. The car would stop at stop signs with the engine cold, and slip out of gear. That first 1-2 shift became longer and more noticeable. It was okay again once the car warmed up, but it still worried me. I tried to nurse the transmission through another year of service. I changed the fluid more often than even the severe duty schedule calls for, cleaning a pile of debris off the magnet each time. I cleaned the speed sensors. I upgraded the TCM to the flashable one with current firmware. I tried Lucas Transmission Fix. I even rebuilt the solenoid pack, which gave the most improvement, not counting that initial ATF+4 flush. But the transmission still had trouble at stop signs when cold. Then, one day, I became convinced the car was running a liter low on transmission fluid. I was always adjusting fluid levels back then, trying to find that magic level where the unit would work best. Being the cautious type, I added half a liter, intending to add more once I checked the fluid again. It didn't take long for the transmission to scold me for that one. Within ten minutes, it began to slip and buck. I came to a stop, let the transmission cool, and went back home at a slower speed to keep the fluid from getting any worse. I corrected the fluid level. But it was too late - the torque converter started slamming into and out of lockup, as it had in the mountains of BC. I changed the fluid again. No good. Then, reverse gear turned intermittent, and I realized it was all over for the Imperial's original transmission. I'd nursed it through four years and 23,000 kilometers, and that's all I was going to get from it. This car needed a new transmission.

That's where this sad looking car comes in. A 1991 Fifth Avenue, it was sidelined by a broken rocker pedestal in the 3.8. The owner decided that was the end of the road. It had engine problems, body damage from two accidents, rusty rocker panels, and rusty spring perches on the rear axle, with 250,000 kilometers on the odometer. It did have one part in it that made it very useful to me - the transmission. 1991 is the only year that would interchange transmissions with the Imperial, and this particular car had a rebuilt one. Not only that, it was a well documented rebuild. I knew who rebuilt it, what was done to it, and how the car was driven and maintained since. I knew how much mileage was on the rebuild. And the best part was, I got the whole car for $350 Canadian because I happened to be related to the owner. That's not to say there weren't issues with this rebuilt transmission, because there were. This car had always leaked oil from the axle seals, and I didn't know why. But for $350, I reasoned I would take the gamble. I would buy the car, remove the rebuilt transmission, and just swap it into my Imperial. I would then keep the old transmission, just in case. If things didn't work out, I could then just take my old transmission to a rebuilder and save on the remove and replacement charges. Now, let me tell you all about swapping transmissions in a 1990s AY body car, because I know now that it is not that easy.

In order to do a job like this, there are a few tools you absolutely need, and some that are not necessary but will save your sanity. The above transmission jack fits into the latter category. Costing me some $200, it has already paid for itself. Among the tools you do really need, there are the usual suspects. You need a good ratchet for sure, a torque wrench, a breaker bar with a 32mm socket to get the axle nuts off, and sockets in 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, and 19mm. Deep sockets aren't necessary for most of these, but they don't hurt either. A long offset 15mm wrench helps with the torque converter bolts. A set of decent extensions will help a lot... get an extra long one, like two feet long, and you can remove the bell housing bolts through the left side wheel well when you get to that point. That will make things go a lot smoother. You also need the usual jacking gear. I ended up needing two jack stands (I had a third handy just in case), the scissor jacks from both cars, my new transmission jack, and my broken but still useful trolley jack with the absurdly low lift range.

Let's examine the above picture of the 1991 for a moment. The engine bay of these cars is rather cramped; it was not originally designed with the 3.8 and A604 in mind. I have already cleared this side of the engine bay. The battery tray, intake hose, air filter box, and cruise servo have all been removed. The radiator overflow bottle has also been removed, but I discovered it isn't necessary to go that far. All electrical connections to the engine on this side have been disconnected. The shift linkage has been removed, along with the crank sensor has been removed, and you'd better believe this is an important step. Otherwise, you might damage it or the flexplate when you remove the transmission. All wiring has been disconnected from the transmission. The solenoid pack, speed sensors, range switch, and neutral safety switch are unplugged. Orange arrows indicate the cooler hose fittings - I did those later. This is the new transmission, I wanted to minimize the chance of any debris getting in there. So, I disconnected and duct tape over those fittings just before I dropped the transmission out. A red arrow indicates a hold down bolt for some of the heater core supply lines. This bracket also holds some wiring. All I had to do was loosen this bolt - the bracket is slotted and will pull off when the transmission drops. Yellow indicates the shift cable clamp. A 10mm bolt clamps the cable in place, while a 13mm bolt holds the assembly to the transmission. This bracket did not have to be removed on the 1991, but did have to come out on the 1992. This is because the 1992 still has its catalytic converter, which limited the amount of adjustments I could make to the angle of the engine and transmission. Finally, there's a cyan arrow up there. This indicates the one longer bell housing bolt that is used to also hold on the front engine mount. You need to remember where this one goes.

Before going too far with things, there's something else I needed to do - build an engine support bar. Technically, this is one of those not necessary steps, because you could just use a jack and support the engine under the oil pan. But doing so is not really wise. In these cars, the engine has to go down and forward before the transmission will have the clearance to come out. Even with the bar, I still found myself playing with the jacks way too often. So, here's what I did: I took some 2x4s, some lag bolts, got out the saw and drill, and just built one. I also grabbed myself a 3/4" eyebolt eight inches long to provide some up and down adjustment capabilities, and ten feet of 1300 pound rated chain.

Here's a picture of the support bar installed. It worked beautifully.

Before getting to the major surgery, it was important to make sure it was worth doing. Not only that, draining the transmission fluid does make it a little lighter. The above picture is what I found when the pan came down on the donor transmission. The magnet has some stuff on it, but it's way far from the fuzz I saw the last time the Imperial's came down. This pleased me greatly. I cleaned off the old RTV, installed the new filter, and replaced the pan.

Before removing a transmission, you must remove the parts the transmission is attached to. Namely, the halfshafts. Pull the vehicle speed sensor first. My 1991 donor had an intermediary

shaft, as you see here. While the usual course is to separate the ball joint and leave the struts to get these out, I decided to just pull the struts instead. The Imperials were shot, and the Fifths were not. I reasoned I might as well get it all done at the same time.

With the axles out, I found the problem with the leaky axle seals - the seals themselves were at the end of the road. The rebuilders, otherwise competent, had not replaced these. Not to worry - I had factory fresh seals from the dealer on hand. But we'll get to that later. Meantime, I still needed to get access to the transmission before bolting that big support chain in and lowering the engine. See the red arrows? Those indicate the bolts holding the left side splash guard on. The left one is out of frame in this picture. Once the splash guard is out, we can access the transmission mount bolts.

My new transmission jack is adjusted and ready to go, or so I thought at the time. I put the cart before the horse a bit. The jack must be adjusted after lowering the engine and moving it forward. Angle it so that the leading edge of the jack takes the most weight, or the transmission will fall forward a bit and the torque converter will catch on the flexplate. This was also before I knew to use a ratcheting tie down strap instead of that safety chain to secure the transmission to the jack. If you don't do that, the transmission will slip on the jack and the torque converter may fall off, as mine did. And the safety chain wasn't really long enough to reach around the transmission, anyway.

Now, there is access to the three transmission mount bolts. But before we monkey with those, support the engine with a jack, bolt that support bar chain in place, and remove the front motor mount. This is also a good place to stop, get under the car, and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate. You will need to pull two 10mm bolts and an 18mm bell housing bolt to do that, and then the actual flexplate bolts are short 15mm jobs. There are four of those on these cars. Pull the starter motor while you're at it - this will give you even more access to those flexplate bolts. Also, this will make it easier to line up the transmission again later, as the starter has a peg that fits into the bell housing. I went just a bit further than this, even, and removed that big bracket on the backside of the engine that was interfering with that 18mm inspection plate/bell housing bolt. That bracket will only make things harder for you if you leave it in, and it's only a couple more 18mm bolts to deal with.

This is a good time to show you another tool that saved my sanity - my 1/2" drive adjustable wobble extension. This guy had me kissing him regularly when it came to removing the bell housing bolts up top, and I'm not normally that kind of guy. The wobble part of the extension was already a major help, but the extending part cemented my love for this particular tool. Here, you see me fiddling with my engine support scissor jack.

This is where I got once the transmission mount bolts were removed and the engine jack was down. At this point, the whole shebang is not far down enough to remove the transmission. Another couple inches from here is about where I figure I was able to get it out. Also, I found I needed to put a scissor jack behind the engine, between the cross member and oil pan, and jack the engine forward quite a bit to get the right angle. The cross member will interfere with your efforts once you go down far enough - that's why you have to jack the puppy forward. Now, this is the hard part. I don't have any pictures of this, as my hands got so greasy I didn't want to mess with the camera, but removing this transmission was a royal pain. My best advice is to go very slow, making adjustments to the jacks as needed to clear the flexplate. You need to move the transmission about an inch and a half to the side to clear it. Jack her up a little now. Down. No, wait, left a bit. Wait... left a little more. Oops, now the TC is caught on the flexplate... let's tilt the jack to the left a bit. Ok, up a little more, and we'll push the tranny jack to the... stop! We're leaking and the torque converter's being pulled off! Jack her up, jack her UP!!! Ok, there we go. Aha! The transmission's clear! But the torque converter's lying over there... rats. And yes, I was talking to myself like that the entire time. Once I had the donor transmission down, I now had to jack the cars body up to enable removal. I ended up having to put a scissor jack on three blocks of wood and run it to its highest to do it. By that time, that whole side of the car was off the ground. I got my transmission out of there as fast as possible so I could jack it back down. You would think the transmission would come out the front, but that's not the case. The dipstick tube is too high to do that without jacking the car up to the moon. Instead, you pull it out the side through the wheel well.

Now, we'll move to the Imperial. I've skipped the whole clearing of the engine bay picture on this car, because it's pretty much the same procedure as the Fifth Avenue. The ABS computer may have gotten in the way of transmission removal, but that whole system on this car is long gone already, including the computer, which is otherwise bolted to the battery box support right below the cruise control servo. Here, you see the old transmission losing all its fluid in preparation for removal.

To my consternation, using the crowbar on the wheel studs approach to removing the axle nut on the right resulted in all five wheel studs taking some damage, not to mention deforming the hub

just a bit. That nut was on there but good... much tighter than any other axle nut I've dealt with on a Mopar vehicle. It took two breaker bars (the first one broke), a cheater pipe, and all 260 lbs of me bouncing on the end of it while hammering on the breaker bar to crack that nut loose. Nothing like adding five wheel studs to the list of things to replace on this car. A friend of mine from the Allpar forums by the name of mydodgedip provided me with another helpful tip, having been the one to clue me in on the ratcheting tie down strap trick for the transmission jack: just stick a screwdriver in the brake rotor slots to break the axle nut loose. Or in my case, a really big extra long center punch.

Here we are in mid disassembly. At this point, the front motor mount is gone, as are the axles and struts. The only thing holding the engine and transmission in are the left and right engine/transmission mounts.

Here's a picture of the Imperial's flexplate area. Yellow points at the flexplate itself, through the two areas you can use to access the torque converter bolts. Red indicates the front engine mount bolt I used to bolt the support bar chain to. Behind the engine, I used one of the 18mm bracket bolts I spoke of earlier.

The support bar is in place, and the old transmission is ready to come out.

The left side of the Imperial is a bit different than the Fifth. There is less room for the transmission to come sideways, and I found that the bolt arrowed in red interfered. I had to loosen it up a little. The blue arrow indicates one of many trim clips you will need to replace if you're doing this job on your AY body. I'll show you the new ones in a bit.

I found to my consternation that this car, with its catalytic converter having had to be re-attached after an emergency pull apart with the rest of the pipe, ended up not allowing the degree of engine movement I enjoyed on the Fifth Avenue. While transmission removal was almost easy on the

Fifth, it was not easy at all on the Imperial. In the end, the engine only went down so far and had to be pushed forward as far as it would go to get the transmission out. But at the same time, it did go easier in a way because I now had that ratcheting tie down strap to keep the transmission in place on the jack. In the above picture, I've pointed out the forward/backward and side to side jack adjustments in yellow. This is when I finally got my transmission removal routine nailed down to avoid having the torque converter (red) drop off. Here's what I did: with the strap securely holding the transmission to the jack, I manipulated the up/down tilt so that, again, most of the A604's weight was on the leading edge of the jack plate. Then, I merely made minute adjustments to the side to side adjustment while jacking up and down to find the perfect angle. Once I did that, the transmission got freed up to the point all I had to do was bring it down. But not without another bit of aggravation I hadn't seen with the Fifth Avenue. There are two long bolts sticking out of the differential cover on this transmission the 1991 didn't have. These consistently got hung up on the cross member, and would not allow transmission removal. Let me show you another picture.

See the yellow jack? That's what finally got the Imperial's transmission out. What had to be done to get those bolts to clear is, I had to jack up the differential end of the transmission while pulling the transmission jack toward the front of the car. About a half inch is all it took to clear the bolts, and then I could lower the transmission jack the rest of the way. This is about when I learned I needed my tool bag on the end of the transmission jack. It was just a little end heavy, and the transmission wanted to fall forward.

With the old transmission off the jack, I got this picture of the two bolts in question. It's probably easier to grind these down a bit to not interfere, but I had no angle grinder. Since this transmission won't be going back in, I decided to leave them be.

Before installing the new transmission, I needed to deal with those old axle seals on the rebuilt transmission. Above, you see the new Mopar parts. They are pre-lubed to assist with the axle installation.

Not wanting to spend cash for the official seal installation tool, I went down to the local hardware store and bought this. It's a 2" galvanized pipe adapter. The threaded end is the perfect diameter to install axle seals, and it worked perfectly.

One of the new seals in place. Installing the new transmission proved to be... well, easy. Or at least as easy as possible. The transmission jack was already pre-set to the right angles, so all I had to do was put the new transmission on the jack, grunting and groaning the whole time because these weigh about 200 pounds, secure my tie down strap, and just jack it back into place. Sure, some wiggling back and forth was needed, but I found that I was able to get it lined up with two of the bell housing bolts tightened within twenty minutes. From there, it was just a matter of bolting everything back

together. Speaking of bolting, there are torque specs for all of these bolts you should adhere to. It was easy torquing the bell housing bolts, because they were all more or less accessible thanks to the adjustable wobble extension. But the flexplate bolts were not so accessible. In fact, I couldn't get the torque wrench on any of them. So, I took my offset 18mm box wrench, the longest I had, and just cranked them down as hard as I could. I used a whole lot of force. They won't move now, especially with blue threadlocker holding them in. Threadlocker is your friend on this type of job, because you don't want the flexplate bolts coming loose. At all. That would be very bad. More about that torque converter. You do have to take steps to line it up properly when you bolt it back to the flexplate, because it only bolts up one way. There's a trick to it. Look at your torque converter... you will see four bolt holes. One of these will have a circle marked near it, about a half inch in diameter. Now, look at the flexplate. One of the bolt holes will be round at the top and bottom, but flat on the sides. That's your index bolt location on both the flexplate and the torque converter. Match the bolt hole with the circle to the oblong bolt hole on the flexplate, and you're good to go. Note that there may be other oblong holes like that in the flexplate - take care not to try bolting to those by accident. They won't line up. If you do manage to mis-align things, don't panic. You can still rotate the torque converter by reaching through the starter hole in the engine block, getting your fingers in behind the flexplate. I was pretty close to lining it up the first time, but I did have to do this too just a bit. And one more little tip before I continue. Perhaps some of you have had the torque converter fall off, as I did, on the donor transmission. I want to help you get that back on the input shaft properly. Here's what I did: first, I tipped the transmission on end with the input shaft reaching for the sky. Then, I gently set the converter into place, and began to spin it on the shaft. When you do this, the converter should drop down when it lines itself up properly. It will drop a couple times, until it should be just barely scraping on the bell housing. It sits way down there on the shaft, and that's how you want it for installation. Worry not - once you put the bolts in, nothing will scrape anymore. The bolts pull it back out just enough to be in perfect alignment on the input shaft.

Not a required step but a useful one is to use this here dielectric grease to seal up the solenoid pack connector. It's a big connector that faces the hood - it's a given that water's going to try and get in there. I just squirted a bunch of this in the connector and bolted it together.

These are the trim clips used on the splash guards on this car.

Now, with the new transmission in, I decided a flush was in order. The rebuilt transmission was about 50,000 kilometers into its one and only (since the rebuild) supply of ATF+3, so I was anxious to get the really good stuff in there. And let's face it - I wanted the old Lucas permeated fluid out of the transmission cooler, too. The red arrow indicates what I do to provide a quick ignition kill - I put some duct tape on the ASD relay, flush until I reach my target level, and yank the relay. Engine dies immediately, no more transmission fluid comes out. That's the idea, anyway. In reality, I was so tired by this point I put the tape on the fuel pump relay without thinking, and it sputtered for a bit before dying; still pumping some fluid out. My flushing supplies were ten liters of ATF+4, a rapid flow funnel, and a measuring funnel. I used the measuring one to do the initial 3.8 liter (4 quart) fill, then used it again to dump 200mL into another container. Now I knew I had six liters to flush. That's where the bucket comes in. It is graduated at one liter intervals, so I put a strip of duct tape at the six liter mark so I could see it easier. I put the bucket under the car with it still up on the jack stands, dangled the cooler return line above the bucket, readied my fluid, and started the engine for the first time with its new transmission. It purred like a kitten.

This is my rapid flow funnel in place. I found that it doesn't really flow much faster than a normal transmission funnel, and I was not quite able to dump it in as fast as it was pumping out. It's all good, though - the transmission never went dry.

All done the flush. Now it's time for the real fun - get the car off the stands, take it for a spin, and top off the fluid level. How did that go, you ask? Well, I ended up going to the next town and back. I had no major issues with anything. Especially with the new transmission. It is currently shifting like... well, a new transmission. There are no problems with it whatsoever, except a few random harsh shifts

that come with the TCM now having to learn it's not working with a slushbox full of worn parts and clutches any more. As for fluid level, I was still a liter low after checking several times during the drive in 30 degree Celsius weather. But, as I found out the hard way on the old transmission, it's better to be too low on these than too high. It's running in the correct fluid level zone now. Even better, the new seals have totally stopped it from leaking at the axles. My Imperial is now 100% reliable for the first time since well before I bought it. My total investment on this job is somewhere in the neighborhood of $800 Canadian, including the cost of the parts car. I'm happy. That's just over half the dollar amount it cost in 2007 to have this transmission rebuilt. I had to work hard to save that kind of money, but it was well worth it.