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Do you know long can you expect your car's alternator to last? iStockphoto.com/Ules Barnwell

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Just think of this scenario: You open your car door, step inside and sit down. You put your seat belt on, adjust your rearview mirror and then put the key in the ignition and give it a turn. Instead of the motor roaring to life, all you hear is a click-click sound. Nothing happens, no matter how many times you try to turn the key. Odds are, most of us will face this kind of situation at least once in our lives. Actually, it could mean a number of different things, including engine troubles or a dead battery. However, it could also mean your alternator is nearing the end of its life and it is time to replace it. The alternator is an important car part that recharges the battery using power from the engine. It also provides power to the electrical components. It's about the size of a coconut andconsists of a rotor, stator and housing. Electrical coils mounted on the rotor -- which is spun by the engine's serpentine belt -- move past stationary coils on the stator, and that creates electrical flow [source: Basic Car Audio Electronics]. This auto part produces electricity that flows into the battery, which is then used to run the electrical components in the car. An alternator produces alternating current (AC) -- as opposed to the generator on older vehicles, which produced direct current (DC) -- and that's where it gets its name. Cars with an alternator use a diode pack to convert the AC power to DC power, which is what the car's electrical system components require to operate. The alternator keeps the battery from losing its charge and eventually dying, because when the battery dies, all the electrical features included on your vehicle go along with it. We ask a lot from our auto parts, especially our vehicle's electrical system. It wasn't that long ago when an alternator only had to power headlights, the radio and a few other accessories. But now, our cars come complete with GPS navigation systems, electric seat heaters and even DVD players. It's easy to see how alternators and batteries have to handle a much heavier load these days. When your alternator goes out, you may not be able to start your engine, or switch on electrical accessories like the radio or your GPS unit and you may even notice that the gauges are beginning to fail while you're driving. If your alternator is failing, there's a good chance that you'll need to replace it. But how long can an alternator last from the time when the car is new? What factors contribute to this auto part's longevity? Luckily, there are many ways to learn more about this problem and other car part information. In this article, we'll explore the factors behind an alternator's lifespan, and learn more about how to keep your car's electrical system working properly.
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Factors Affecting Alternator Longevity

As mentioned earlier, alternators have a tough job. Every year, cars are built with more and more complex electrical systems and devices. The alternator is the car part responsible for supplying the power to the battery that keeps them all running. Starting the car and using the radio, the onboard navigation system, the heated seats, power mirrors and windows and any other electrical equipment will decrease the alternator's longevity. Earlier, we described the action that generates electricity as a rotor spinning past coils inside the alternator. That rotor is spun on a needle bearing, an auto part which can break due to excessive wear or dirt and grime that can build up inside. In addition, the diodes inside the voltage regulator can fail after time. Heat from the engine also puts an extra strain on the part, decreasing its car part longevity. In other words, an alternator is an auto part that cannot last forever. Because there are so many factors that can affect its life, it's hard to say exactly how long an alternator can actually last. It depends on the car, the engine, the conditions in which it's used, how much electrical equipment it's regularly operating and so on. Some cars may lose an alternator at 40,000 miles (64,374 kilometers) while others may continue to operate well after 100,000 miles (160,934 kilometers). When your alternator is on its way out, you may start to lose power to your various electrical components when your car is at idle. This is because there's nothing to recharge the battery. You may be able to get a quick jumpstart from a friend or helpful passerby with jumper cables, but the car won't last very long with a dying alternator. It's extremely dangerous to drive this way and you should try and make it to a repair shop immediately [source: Money Blue Book]. Service shops usually have all the auto part information they need about your particular alternator to determine what's going on. In the next section, we'll discuss alternator maintenance, as well as ways you can avoid a breakdown by minding your alternator's health, along with that of the battery.
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No one looks forward to being stranded on the side of the road, whether it's thanks to the alternator or anything else that breaks on our cars. Luckily, there are preventative measures we can take to make sure the electrical system won't fail us when we need it most. There are several ways to test the health of your car's alternator. One way is to use a voltmeter, a device used to measure electrical output. A voltmeter can be found at almost any auto parts or electronics store. Start the car, make sure all accessories are turned off and get the engine at a healthy idle. Select the DC scale on the voltmeter, connect it to the battery terminals and look at the readingon the device. The voltage should read around 14 volts. Next, start adding electrical devices like headlights, heater and radio -- if at any time the voltage drops lower than 12 volts, then your alternator isn't doing what it should be. Check to make sure it's the same voltage at the alternator terminal. If it isn't, your car's battery may be the problem, not the alternator [source: Hewitt]. If you think the problem is the battery and not another car part, there are a few things you can try before running out and buying a new one. Make sure you disconnect the battery from the vehicle, negative terminal first and then positive. You don't want to unintentionally zap yourself! Try cleaning the battery connections with baking soda and water -- if the terminals are dirty, electricity won't flow properly. You can also replace the terminal clamps, which can erode to the point where they don't provide contact anymore. There may be soldering involved with the replacement clamps, however, so this job requires a few more tools and a little more time than you may be willing to put in [source: Allen]. If these efforts don't work and the battery isn't the issue, it may be time to replace the alternator altogether. In the next section, we'll discuss the auto part information necessary for the job, and how doing it yourself is easier than you might think.

A voltmeter is just one way to determine if your car's alternator is in proper working order. iStockphoto.com/Stefano Tiraboschi

Replacing Alternators
The individual auto parts within the alternator like the rotor, diode pack and stator typically aren't serviceable. This means that when one of the car parts go bad, it's best to replace the entire alternator. If you have the tools and some knowledge of how to repair a vehicle, you can save some of the labor costs by changing out the alternator yourself. Just remember that it's always a good idea to consult your vehicle's service manual for the right auto part information. To begin, make sure the vehicle is parked in a flat, well-lit area and that the engine has had proper time to cool down. Next, disconnect the battery to minimize the risk of shocking yourself. Locate the alternator in your engine bay, usually a silver, rounded device with a fan visible behind the belt pulley. It's bolted to a bracket attached to the engine, so you may need to use two socket wrenches to get it loose. If the hardware is corroded, it may be difficult to remove the bolts. Alternators can be driven by two types of belts connected to the crankshaft -- a V-belt or a serpentine belt. The former fell out of fashion after the late 1980s and most new cars use a serpentine belt. You'll need to loosen the belt tensioner so there's some slack in the belt, then slip the belt off the pulley. It's not a bad idea to replace the belt altogether while you're at it. Just remember to contact the local auto parts store with you car part information to make sure they have the right part in stock for you. Now, remove the electrical connections behind the alternator, making sure you remember where they were located. You can then remove the old alternator and set it aside. Now, if you're replacing the belt, do that before you do anything else. Place the new alternator in the correct position and secure the belt, making it properly tight -- then you can begin to tighten the bolts that hold the alternator in place. If you're working alone, it may help to use vice grips to hold the alternator right where you want it [source: Mobil Oil USA]. Now, replace the electrical connections, being careful to put them in the proper place. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Make sure you don't get any engine or battery warning lights on your dashboard and that you don't hear any unusual noises, either. If you do it right, you'll be rewarded with car part longevity -- your new alternator should perform just as intended. For more information about alternators, auto part longevity and other related topics, follow the links on the next page.

Car Engines Image Gallery

How do you know when your alternator is failing? See morecar engine pictures. iStockphoto.com/hfng

It all starts with a few telltale problems: A dash light coming on for a brief moment, maybe dimmed headlights and a few flickering gauges. Perhaps there's even an odd smell, or a growling sound coming from under the hood. Is this a case of automotive possession? No. Most likely it's one of many possible alternator problems, and without a little attention, this problem can cause car trouble ranging from slow starts all the way up to a dead car. While an alternator is a relatively simple component containing only a few parts, it plays a critical role in any vehicle's operation. Essentially it turns the mechanical energy of the engine's rotating crank shaft into electricity through induction. Wires within the alternator cut through a magnetic field; this in turn induces electrical current. That current is used to power your car's accessories, which can be anything from headlights to the electro-hydraulic lifts on a snow plow. The alternator also keeps the battery fully charged, providing the power it needs to start the car. Because the alternator is connected to (and critical for) other vehicle systems, any mechanical auto problems can have an affect on its function and have an affect on diagnosing car problems. However, paying attention to the five trouble signs on this list can make diagnosing car trouble related to the alternator a little easier. Keep reading to find out what you should be on the lookout for.

Keep an eye on your dashboard warning lights for an early indication of possible trouble. iStockphoto.com/Brian Jackson

Within the instrument cluster of most cars built in the last decade is a warning light dedicated to signaling an alternator issue. In most cases the light is shaped like a battery, though some show "ALT" or "GEN," meaning alternator or generator, respectively. Many people see this light and instinctively think they have a battery problem, which is symptom that will be covered later, but that's not really why the light goes on. This light is linked to computer systems within the car monitoring the voltage output of the alternator. If the alternator's output goes below or above a pre-set limit then the dash light comes on. Once the output is within range the light remains unlit. In the early stages of alternator problems the light can seem to flicker -- on for just a second and then off again. Or maybe it lights up only when accessories are activated. For instance, let's say its nighttime and the headlights are on and everything is working just fine. Then it beginsto rain. As you flick on the windshield wipers the warning light comes on. Turn off the wipers and it goes away. While that may initially seem like an aggravating problem, the warning light is doing its job exactly. Most alternators have an output between 13 and 14.5 volts that they try to maintain at a constant level. As more power is demanded by the headlights, the windshield wipers, your radio, the heated seats, the rear window defroster and so on, the alternator needs to work harder to maintain the necessary voltage. If your car's alternator is not working to its full potential, or demands are placed on it that it can no longer meet, the voltage will either go above or below the set level and switch on the warning light.

Dim headlights are often a sign that your alternator is on its way out. iStockphoto.com/Olaru Radian-Alexandru

Since the alternator supplies the vehicle's electrical needs, when it begins to lose its potential so do the accessories that draw on that electricity. Drivers may begin to experience erratic symptoms ranging from dimming or extremely bright headlights and dash lights, to speedometers and tachometers that simply stop working for no reason. Other accessories, like heated seats or power windows may experience a slowdown as well. A driver's exact experience is usually dependent on a number of factors. The first is how well the alternator is still producing power and also where it is in its death cycle. The second is how the car is programmed. In most new vehicles auto manufacturers have a sort of preprogrammed priority list for where electricity will be sent just in case an alternator problem arises. This is usually based on safety considerations. For example, the heated seat will switch off, or the radio will quit before the headlights dim and fade away. The reasoning behind this is that a driver would need to be able to see in order to safely pull over and stop if the car suddenly quit working -- but they definitely wouldn't care about a heated seat or what's on the radio at that point. These symptoms are grouped together as signals from the senses. They're less definitive than a warning light; however, these signs of alternator trouble can tip off a driver that there's something going on that shouldn't be happening:

Sight: Mechanics are accustomed to customers complaining of classic alternator issues, and then opening the hood to find the belt missing, hanging off the engine block or so loose it's flapping around the engine compartment. A quick visual check of the belt for cracking, excessive wear and other age issues can give an indication of a future problem. Also, the belt must have the proper tension to run the alternator correctly; too much tension is just as bad as not enough. A quick check of the belt tension is usually enough to determine if a problem exists.

Sound: Drivers will sometimes complain about hearing a "growling" or "whining" noise before an alternator gives out. The alternator is driven by either an accessory belt or a serpentine belt in conjunction with the crankshaft pulley. The alternator pulley typically spins about two or three times faster than the crankshaft pulley to produce the power necessary at lower engine speeds, such as at idle. The alternator pulley spins on a shaft, which in turn is supported by either bearings or bushings. If the pulley is not in correct alignment with the belt, if it's canted on the shaft or if the bearings and bushing are worn out, the growling or whining noise will let you know there's a problem.

Smell: The scent of burning rubber or hot wires will often accompany alternator failure. A pulley that isn't in alignment or not turning freely will cause more friction on the belt, which creates heat and then the smell of burning rubber. The hot wire scent can be caused by an overheated alternator, one pushing too much power through the rotor and stator.

A bad battery or a bad alternator? iStockphoto.com/Greg Henry

While not technically an alternator problem, a car that won't start is a definitive notice from your car that there's a problem in the starting system. When the key is turned, you'll hear a tell-tale clicking of relays ticking over but nothing else happens. After a time, even that noise stops. The immediate problem is usually a dead battery; but the question a driver should ask is, "Why is it dead?" When an alternator begins to fail, or fails outright, the car's battery begins to take up the slack rather than acting as a capacitor for the system by receiving a constant infusion of electrical power from the alternator. However, even the best car battery will run down eventually leaving a driver stranded in the driveway or worse, on the side of the road. Car batteries are not designed for long-term power use. They're designed to provide the vehicle with enough electrical oomph to start by juicing the starter motor with a surge of power and getting the whole works spinning. Diagnosing a dead battery versus a dead alternator is relatively easy. Simply jump-start the car and then remove the cables as quickly as possible. Then wait. If the alternator is failing to charge the system, the car will soon die again and the problem has been pinpointed. If the car runs and continues to run, then it's likely the problem is with the battery. Caution should be used, however, as a dying battery can only receive a charge for so long and may go completely dead at a later point despite the best efforts of the alternator. Testing a battery can be accomplished with a voltmeter, and most auto stores have the facilities to check a suspect battery's state of charge and even its charge capacity. In this case, everything with your car's alternator seems to check out OK -- no belt issues or other visible signs of trouble -- but the car's battery is dead, as is most of the car's electrical equipment. What's happening is the alternator is producing electricity, but it's either not going anywhere or it's not the right type. Alternator electricity is piped through large cables and smaller wires. Any problems within the wires, cables or the connections at either end can reduce or stop electricity from getting through. Occasionally, a symptom of this issue might be brighter lights as the alternator produces more energy to overcome the resistance in a bad wire or a broken or loose connection. This symptom is usually accompanied by the smell of hot wires, too. Higher resistance within a wire creates heat, similar to the way an electric burner on a stove heats up by resisting the flow of electricity. Another problem could be the alternator's diode rectifier. Alternators produce alternating current (AC) electricity in three phases, but a car's accessories require direct current (DC) to operate. The rectifier changes the current from AC to DC. Without that critical component operating properly, the electricity the alternator produces can't be used. For more information about alternators and other related topics, follow the links on the next page.