Expert's Answer

Hello, as i am sure you know, the testing requires a scanner hooked up to follow the dig flowchart. The diag flowchart is below and list possible causes. I wish i could point you to a common problem but can not maybe this will help

Circuit Description VVT (Variable Valve Timing) System controls the cam pulley phase to adjust the valve timing to the optimize timing. The engine oil pressure controls VVT pulley. OCV (Oil Control Valve) is located on front of the cylinder head and changes the pulley phase by changing the engine oil passage. ECM controls OCV solenoid by PWM signal to adjust the phase to the target. This code detects that a difference of target angle and actual angle larger than a threshold. IMPORTANT: If DTC store caused by OCV sticks by the contamination, the self recovery works in the middle of the normal driving cycle. This is executed to take out the contamination from OCV. This may resolve the OCV stuck problem. Conditions for Setting The DTC

Deviation angle:-10-10 deg

Test enable: wait time 2 seconds ECT is below 60 C Ignition voltage is below 10.96 V Engine running BARO is below 72 kPa IAT is below -10 C No DTC's below set: BARO sensor (P0106, P0107, P0108) IAT sensor (P0112, P0113) ECT sensor (P0116, P0117, P0118, P0125) Crankshaft angle sensor (P0341, P0342, P0346, P0347) Ignition voltage (P0563) OCV Solenoid (P1690, P1691, P1692, P1695, P1696, P1697) ROM (P0601) RAM (P0604)

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

The ECM will ON the MIL after second trip with detected fault. The ECM will store condition which were present when the DTC was set as Freeze Frame and in the Failure Records data.

IMPORTANT: DTC is stored in memory as an historical data entry. If there is no freeze frame data, inspection is required. If no problems are discovered during inspection, clear the DTC data from memory.

Read more: i have a 2004 isuzu rodeo 3.5 v/6 with a dtc 1350, variable - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/car/2i2km-2004-isuzu-rodeo-3-5-v-6-dtc-1350variable.html#ixzz26o75yib1 Tech Topics >> Preventive Maintenance

Engine Maintenance: Timing Belt Replacement on Lexus GS 300s

September 2, 2009 By Larry Bailly

Import Specialist Contributor

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3 Comments

When I think of a sports sedan I usually think of the German variety. A BMW 3 or 5 Series, or maybe an Audi Quattro or E series Mercedes. Since the early 1990s there has been another choice, but the sales figures have kind of kept these cars a secret. The cars Im talking about are in the Lexus line of upscale luxury cars, but are either sold as an entry-level car above the ES (fancy Camry), or a step below the flagship LS Series. The GS and more recently the IS platforms are high-quality, performance luxury models with a conventional front engine, rear-drive or all-wheel-drive layout. Initially, these cars were powered by an in-line six-cylinder from the Toyota Supra line. Later models have gone to V6 and V8 powerplants. Since these cars are somewhat rare (you have to look to spot one on the road), many people would mistake them for their luxury fluff mobile cousins in the LS class. The focus of this article will be the timing belt replacement on a 2001 Lexus GS 300 with the in-line six-cylinder 2JZ-GE engine with VVT-i (Toyotas variable valve timing). Nothing can spoil the resale value of a high-dollar car more than an engine failure. Due to the complexities of the valve timing and internal engine clearances, these engines will most likely bend valves if the belt fails, or if the belt is installed incorrectly. For these reasons, I would recommend that you read through this article and the service manual description for this job very carefully before starting this repair. There are also differences between models on this platform that can WHEN impact the way certain TO components are removed. REPLACE

Recommended replacement intervals for timing belts are all over the map these days. Depending on which tech manual or tech assistance site you access, you can get widely varying mileage and time suggestions.

Photo 1: Its difficult to see the DOHC in-line 6-cylinder under all of the plastic covers.

My advice is to look closely at the accessory belts, note any cracking or evidence of replacement, and then factor in the use of the car and its maintenance history. Cars that are driven primarily in hot, dry climates will probably benefit from earlier replacement than those living in more moderate conditions. Due to the possibility of engine damage if the belt breaks or jumps time, I would not recommend waiting beyond six years or 90,000 miles, which is the OE-recommended interval for this engine. A quick scan through service bulletins, tech assistance requests and first-hand experience with this repair leads me to advise that extra care be taken on this repair. Ensure that every step is done correctly, and the proper tools and procedures are used to prevent comebacks, driveability FIRST STEPS complaints or difficulties in completing this service.

Photo 2: Color-coding the timing marks will help avoid confusion.

Because of the interference possibilities, I suggest removing the ignition key and hiding it so the engine does not get cranked by mistake while the belt is off. The job is easier if it is on a hoist and the lower engine covers are removed. Drain the coolant and remove the fan shrouds. The various models and yearly changes to this series of cars make an initial inspection worthwhile after checking a repair information source. To prevent the possibility of damage, I would recommend removing the radiator and fan just to provide more working space ( see Photo 1). Without removal of the radiator and shroud, space to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt is pretty much non-existent. (On SC 300 models, the battery and battery box will also need to be removed.) The serpentine belt tensioner may turn either direction depending on model, and the pulley mounting bolt will have threads of one direction or the other, depending on the adjusting rotation of the tensioner. Remove or loosen the brackets for the external accessories (alternator, power steering pump and A/C compressor) as needed to allow removal of the lower front engine cover. Depending on the year, model and body type, some accessories and their brackets are removed or can be left in place to save repair time. The two upper timing belt covers can now be removed to allow the setting up of the engine for disassembly. Toyota designates these covers as cover 3 (the large piece with VVT-i on it) which looks like the front of a large valve cover, and cover 2, the center part of the front engine cover. If you havent already done so, remove the serpentine belt tensioner. Using a suitable tool to hold the crankshaft damper, loosen but dont remove, the bolt and pulley at this ENGINE SETUP time.

Photo 3: The location of timing marks on the VVT-i sprocket.

In order to get the engine in the correct position for removing the timing belt, the tension on the variable timing must be removed to allow the engine to be at actual TDC.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the main timing mark ( see Photo 2) on the damper with the O mark on the number 1 timing cover (lower part of front cover). There are two marks on the crankshaft pulley and two marks on each of the camshaft sprockets. The main crankshaft timing mark is 60 degrees counterclockwise from the sub-timing mark. The main camshaft timing marks are 30 degrees counterclockwise from the sub-timing marks.

Photos 4a & 4b: Marks on timing cover 4 (inner timing cover) are difficult to make out without highlighting.

Note the location of the camshaft timing marks at this point. On this engine, I recommend that the marks be painted (preferably with different paint colors) to more easily reference the proper marks and locations (see Photo 3), with the hard-to-see marks on the number 4 timing cover (inner timing belt cover, see Photos 4a and 4b). Obviously, if the camshaft marks are not anywhere close, turn the engine another revolution clockwise and start the alignment process again.

Once the main timing marks are located and aligned, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to align the sub-timing marks (see Photo 5) with the same reference points used for the main timing marks. At this point, if you were planning on reusing the timing belt for some unusual

reason, put an arrow on it to indicate the direction of travel. You could also paint reference marks on the belt to speed reinstallation. While again holding the crankshaft pulley, remove the retaining bolt. A pulley puller may be necessary to remove the pulley without moving the crankshaft. Then remove the lower number 1 timing cover (see Photo 6). Loosen the tensioner (damper) bolts evenly and take the tension off the belt. Remove the outer belt guide (concave side goes out), and the little finger retainer that restricts movement of the belt away from the crank sprocket at the lower right side (5 oclock position). Then remove the belt after marking the belt and sprocket, if youre INSPECTION As with all timing belt replacement procedures, inspect for damage to or from the belt, oil leaks or mechanical problems (loose parts) that would shorten the life of the replacement belt. Also, inspect the old belt for cracks, uneven wear, oil or coolant saturation, or impact wear from the guides or foreign objects that might have made their way into the covers. Inspect the tensioner damper for oil leakage that would reduce the tension that it applies. reusing the belt.

Photo 5: Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to align the sub-timing marks.

A small amount of oil may be present at the seal, but nothing more than a little seepage is acceptable. If you can depress the push rod into the housing by hand, replace the tensioner. If the rod does not stick out of the body at least 8.0 to 8.8 mm, replace it. Make sure the tensioner pulley spins freely and that the retaining bolt is tight. Specifications call for Loctite on the retaining bolt and torquing to the proper specification. The pulley bracket should move freely; if not, make sure the spacer washer is in place between the bracket and the engine block on the retaining bolt. If the camshaft pulleys need to be removed for seal replacement, be aware that to remove the intake variable timing pulley, only the center bolt should be removed. Do not loosen the five bolts that hold the timing mechanism together. If there is any sign of oil leakage at the variable timing sprocket (not the camshaft seal), then the variable timing pulley may need to be replaced. Variable valve timing codes may indicate leakage or other component failure.

Photo 6: You may need a puller to get the pulley off without moving the crankshaft.

Service bulletins and tech assistance reports indicate that the crankshaft sprocket can be easily damaged, and cause timing and driveability problems and codes. There are reports of even small scratches on the reluctor wheel causing problems as well as missing teeth. The standard procedure for hydraulic damper retraction is used to depress and pin the damper push rod in a vise or press. Make sure even and straight pressure are applied, and install a 1.5 mm hex wrench or pin to hold the pushrod in the retracted position. The engine should be cold by this time; if not, take a break until it is so the proper tension can be put on the BELT INSTALLATION new belt.

Photo 7: Make sure the crankshaft is aligned with the mark on the oil pump housing.

The crankshaft shouldnt have moved from its proper position, but double -check and adjust the timing mark alignment on the crank sprocket and the oil pump housing, if necessary (see Photo 7).

Make sure the front of the engine is clean and dry, and slide the new belt onto the crankshaft sprocket and over the idler/tensioner pulley. If you are reusing an old belt, make sure that you have reinstalled it in the same position and direction. Install the little restrictor to hold the belt onto the crank sprocket. Install the lower belt guide onto the crankshaft and install the number 1 timing cover. Install the crankshaft pulley and make sure that the crankshaft sub-timing mark is still aligned with the O on the cover. Install the pulley retaining bolt hand tight (do not move the crankshaft). Recheck the timing marks on the camshafts and adjust if necessary, remembering that the camshaft sub-timing marks should be the ones that are lined up with the marks on the number 4 cover (inner timing cover). Slide the timing belt onto the camshaft sprockets with slack on the tensioner side and no slack between the camshaft sprockets. Install the tensioner damper by alternately tightening the bolts after making sure the dust boot is in position. Remove the hex wrench or pin from the tensioner body and allow a few minutes for the tensioner to stabilize pressure on the belt. After checking that all the proper timing marks are aligned, turn the engine over by hand, clockwise only, at least two full turns and recheck timing mark alignment. There should not be any restrictions, except the compression of the engine. If it wasnt such a chore, having the spark plugs out makes this step easier and more conclusive that there is no valve-to-piston contact. If the timing marks are off, redo the procedure rather than take the chance that a mistake was made. Having the marks colorcoded makes verifying proper timing easier. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the proper torque and reinstall all removed accessories, covers, radiator and fans. Use a vacuum-type cooling system filler to prevent air locks and overheating FINISHING (not good for a new belt). UP

Even if you havent seen or serviced one of these cars yet, they are going to be around for a long time, like most Toyota products. Being prepared for routine maintenance and the peculiarities of the engine and drivetrain will put you ahead of the game when service opportunities come along. These Lexus models are superbly comfortable, extremely well made and performance is on par with the competition.
Tech Topics >> Preventive Maintenance

Engine Maintenance: Timing Belt Replacement on Lexus GS 300s

September 2, 2009 By Larry Bailly Import Specialist Contributor

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3 Comments

When I think of a sports sedan I usually think of the German variety. A BMW 3 or 5 Series, or maybe an Audi Quattro or E series Mercedes. Since the early 1990s there has been another choice, but the sales figures have kind of kept these cars a secret. The cars Im talking about are in the Lexus line of upscale luxury cars, but are either sold as an entry-level car above the ES (fancy Camry), or a step below the flagship LS Series. The GS and more recently the IS platforms are high-quality, performance luxury models with a conventional front engine, rear-drive or all-wheel-drive layout. Initially, these cars were powered by an in-line six-cylinder from the Toyota Supra line. Later models have gone to V6 and V8 powerplants. Since these cars are somewhat rare (you have to look to spot one on the road), many people would mistake them for their luxury fluff mobile cousins in the LS class. The focus of this article will be the timing belt replacement on a 2001 Lexus GS 300 with the in-line six-cylinder 2JZ-GE engine with VVT-i (Toyotas variable valve timing). Nothing can spoil the resale value of a high-dollar car more than an engine failure. Due to the complexities of the valve timing and internal engine clearances, these engines will most likely bend valves if the belt fails, or if the belt is installed incorrectly. For these reasons, I would recommend that you read through this article and the service manual description for this job very carefully before starting this repair. There are also differences between models on this platform that

can WHEN

impact

the

way

certain TO

components

are

removed. REPLACE

Recommended replacement intervals for timing belts are all over the map these days. Depending on which tech manual or tech assistance site you access, you can get widely varying mileage and time suggestions.

Photo 1: Its difficult to see the DOHC in-line 6-cylinder under all of the plastic covers.

My advice is to look closely at the accessory belts, note any cracking or evidence of replacement, and then factor in the use of the car and its maintenance history. Cars that are driven primarily in hot, dry climates will probably benefit from earlier replacement than those living in more moderate conditions. Due to the possibility of engine damage if the belt breaks or jumps time, I would not recommend waiting beyond six years or 90,000 miles, which is the OE-recommended interval for this engine. A quick scan through service bulletins, tech assistance requests and first-hand experience with this repair leads me to advise that extra care be taken on this repair. Ensure that every step is done correctly, and the proper tools and procedures are used to prevent comebacks, driveability FIRST STEPS complaints or difficulties in completing this service.

Photo 2: Color-coding the timing marks will help avoid confusion.

Because of the interference possibilities, I suggest removing the ignition key and hiding it so the engine does not get cranked by mistake while the belt is off. The job is easier if it is on a hoist and the lower engine covers are removed. Drain the coolant and remove the fan shrouds. The various models and yearly changes to this series of cars make an initial inspection worthwhile after checking a repair information source. To prevent the possibility of damage, I would recommend removing the radiator and fan just to provide more working space ( see Photo 1). Without removal of the radiator and shroud, space to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt is pretty much non-existent. (On SC 300 models, the battery and battery box will also need to be removed.) The serpentine belt tensioner may turn either direction depending on model, and the pulley mounting bolt will have threads of one direction or the other, depending on the adjusting rotation of the tensioner. Remove or loosen the brackets for the external accessories (alternator, power steering pump and A/C compressor) as needed to allow removal of the lower front engine cover. Depending on the year, model and body type, some accessories and their brackets are removed or can be left in place to save repair time. The two upper timing belt covers can now be removed to allow the setting up of the engine for disassembly. Toyota designates these covers as cover 3 (the large piece with VVT-i on it) which looks like the front of a large valve cover, and cover 2, the center part of the front engine cover. If you havent already done so, remove the serpentine belt tensioner. Using a suitable tool to hold the crankshaft damper, loosen but dont remove, the bolt and pulley at this ENGINE SETUP time.

Photo 3: The location of timing marks on the VVT-i sprocket.

In order to get the engine in the correct position for removing the timing belt, the tension on the variable timing must be removed to allow the engine to be at actual TDC. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the main timing mark ( see Photo 2) on the damper with the O mark on the number 1 timing cover (lower part of front cover). There are two marks on the crankshaft pulley and two marks on each of the camshaft sprockets. The main crankshaft timing mark is 60 degrees counterclockwise from the sub-timing mark. The main camshaft timing marks are 30 degrees counterclockwise from the sub-timing marks.

Photos 4a & 4b: Marks on timing cover 4 (inner timing cover) are difficult to make out without highlighting.

Note the location of the camshaft timing marks at this point. On this engine, I recommend that the marks be painted (preferably with different paint colors) to more easily reference the proper marks and locations (see Photo 3), with the hard-to-see marks on the number 4 timing cover (inner timing belt cover, see Photos 4a and 4b). Obviously, if the camshaft marks are not anywhere close, turn the engine another revolution clockwise and start the alignment process again.

Once the main timing marks are located and aligned, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to align the sub-timing marks (see Photo 5) with the same reference points used for the main timing marks. At this point, if you were planning on reusing the timing belt for some unusual reason, put an arrow on it to indicate the direction of travel. You could also paint reference marks on the belt to speed reinstallation. While again holding the crankshaft pulley, remove the retaining bolt. A pulley puller may be necessary to remove the pulley without moving the crankshaft. Then remove the lower number 1 timing cover (see Photo 6). Loosen the tensioner (damper) bolts evenly and take the tension off the belt. Remove the outer belt guide (concave side goes out), and the little finger retainer that restricts movement of the belt away from the crank sprocket at the lower right side (5 oclock position). Then remove the belt after marking the belt and sprocket, if youre INSPECTION As with all timing belt replacement procedures, inspect for damage to or from the belt, oil leaks or mechanical problems (loose parts) that would shorten the life of the replacement belt. Also, inspect the old belt for cracks, uneven wear, oil or coolant saturation, or impact wear from the guides or foreign objects that might have made their way into the covers. Inspect the tensioner damper for oil leakage that would reduce the tension that it applies. reusing the belt.

Photo 5: Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to align the sub-timing marks.

A small amount of oil may be present at the seal, but nothing more than a little seepage is acceptable. If you can depress the push rod into the housing by hand, replace the tensioner. If the rod does not stick out of the body at least 8.0 to 8.8 mm, replace it. Make sure the tensioner pulley spins freely and that the retaining bolt is tight. Specifications call for Loctite on the retaining bolt and torquing to the proper specification. The pulley bracket should move freely; if not, make sure the spacer washer is in place between the bracket and the engine block on the retaining bolt. If the camshaft pulleys need to be removed for seal replacement, be aware that to remove the intake variable timing pulley, only the center bolt should be removed. Do not loosen the five bolts that hold the timing mechanism together. If there is any sign of oil leakage at the variable timing sprocket (not the camshaft seal), then the variable timing pulley may need to be replaced. Variable valve timing codes may indicate leakage or other component failure.

Photo 6: You may need a puller to get the pulley off without moving the crankshaft.

Service bulletins and tech assistance reports indicate that the crankshaft sprocket can be easily damaged, and cause timing and driveability problems and codes. There are reports of even small scratches on the reluctor wheel causing problems as well as missing teeth. The standard procedure for hydraulic damper retraction is used to depress and pin the damper push rod in a vise or press. Make sure even and straight pressure are applied, and install a 1.5 mm hex wrench or pin to hold the pushrod in the retracted position. The engine should be cold by this time; if not, take a break until it is so the proper tension can be put on the BELT INSTALLATION new belt.

Photo 7: Make sure the crankshaft is aligned with the mark on the oil pump housing.

The crankshaft shouldnt have moved from its proper position, but double -check and adjust the timing mark alignment on the crank sprocket and the oil pump housing, if necessary ( see Photo 7). Make sure the front of the engine is clean and dry, and slide the new belt onto the crankshaft sprocket and over the idler/tensioner pulley. If you are reusing an old belt, make sure that you have reinstalled it in the same position and direction. Install the little restrictor to hold the belt onto the crank sprocket. Install the lower belt guide onto the crankshaft and install the number 1 timing cover. Install the crankshaft pulley and make sure that the crankshaft sub-timing mark is still aligned with the O on the cover. Install the pulley retaining bolt hand tight (do not move the crankshaft). Recheck the timing marks on the camshafts and adjust if necessary, remembering that the camshaft sub-timing marks should be the ones that are lined up with the marks on the number 4 cover (inner timing cover). Slide the timing belt onto the camshaft sprockets with slack on the tensioner side and no slack between the camshaft sprockets. Install the tensioner damper by alternately tightening the bolts after making sure the dust boot is in position.

Remove the hex wrench or pin from the tensioner body and allow a few minutes for the tensioner to stabilize pressure on the belt. After checking that all the proper timing marks are aligned, turn the engine over by hand, clockwise only, at least two full turns and recheck timing mark alignment. There should not be any restrictions, except the compression of the engine. If it wasnt such a chore, having the spark plugs out makes this step easier and more conclusive that there is no valve-to-piston contact. If the timing marks are off, redo the procedure rather than take the chance that a mistake was made. Having the marks colorcoded makes verifying proper timing easier. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the proper torque and reinstall all removed accessories, covers, radiator and fans. Use a vacuum-type cooling system filler to prevent air locks and overheating FINISHING (not good for a new belt). UP

Even if you havent seen or serviced one of these cars yet, they are going to be around for a long time, like most Toyota products. Being prepared for routine maintenance and the peculiarities of the engine and drivetrain will put you ahead of the game when service opportunities come along. These Lexus models are superbly comfortable, extremely well made and performance is on par with the competition.

The Ins and Outs of Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Systems and Their Role in Vehicle Emissions

June 14, 2012 By Scott Gonzo Weaver

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By the early 1990s, almost all import automotive manufacturers had a successful variable valve timing (VVT) system in production. These systems offered higher performance from smaller displacement engines at higher rpm. As these vehicles exceeded their new car warranties, technicians learned the ins and outs of these systems and how regular oil changes could increase the life of VVT components. Now, the VVT is playing a direct role in vehicle emissions and the way gases are burned in the combustion camber.

These systems are simple from a diagnostic perspective. Most VVT components are nonserviceable and have integrated sensors. But, they are part of a larger diagnostic picture that includes everything from the throttle body to the oxygen sensor. On a conventional engine, both the exhaust and intake valves open or closed position depends on their fixed position relative to the chain or belt thats driven by the crankshaft. The pattern and timing cannot be altered, so theres no way to increase or decrease the amount of valve lap when both valves are open at the same time. As engines go, some have great low-end performance, while others have better top-end performance. (If youve ever heard an old street rod or dragster popping and rumbling at an idle, youve heard the lope from the cam. Because these engines are designed to have maximum performance at the top end, the cam is cut for better performance at the high end, so sacrifices are made at the idle end.) With VVT, the valve duration can be matched to the engine speed, torque requirements and valve overlap. Now an engine can produce both low- and high-end performance without any erratic idle condition or high-end loss. This also enables an increase in miles per gallon throughout the engines power band by controlling valve timing and making the engine more fuel-efficient.

One great advantage of the VVT system is the way it can take the force needed to expel the burnt mixture out of the exhaust valve. Pushing the exhaust gas out of a cylinder requires some of the force that is generated during the combustion stroke. Opening the exhaust valve when there is still some pressure left in the cylinder allows a small portion of the exhaust gas to escape before the piston starts its upward travel. This reduces the exertion from the crankshaft and piston and provides a smoother, more even-running engine at every rpm level. Leaving the intake valve partially open at the right point also allows fresh air to enter the cylinder while the exhaust valve is doing its job of removing the already-burnt gases. This slight intake valve opening creates low pressure and aides the piston in pushing out the remaining gases and getting ready for the next turn of the crankshaft. This is all the result of the configuration and shape of the exhaust ports and manifolds, all of which work together and make the whole process seamless. EGR AND VVT One item thats going the way of the smog pump is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. The elimination of the EGR valve is the result of the VVTs ability to control gases entering and exiting the combustion chamber. EGR systems are designed to reduce smog-causing nitrous oxides (NOx) by recirculating a portion of the exhaust gases from each cylinder of the engine back into the intake manifold. This process lowers the combustion temperature to under 2,500 F, above which NOx gases are formed, hurting both the environment and a vehicles performance.

EGR systems work, but they are not able to react fast enough or precise enough for modern engines and emissions standards. Modern VVT systems are doing the same job as the EGV valve, only better. A VVT system is able to control the timing of the exhaust valve so that the right amount of inert exhaust gases remain in the combustion chamber for the next combustion cycle. This controls combustion temperatures and the production of NOx. If you encounter a vehicle that has higher than normal NOx levels, or a burnt or damaged pre-catalyst, make sure the VVT solenoid and exhaust camshaft position sensor are operating properly. HONDAS i-VTEC SYSTEM Hondas term for a variable valve system is i-VTEC. The i-VTEC system uses an oil pressure solenoid activated electrically by the PCM to allow oil to pass into the rocker arm between the two normal rockers. This, in-turn, locks the normally used two intake valves together with a set of pins that are pushed outward into the two intake rockers and transfers their motion to a higher eccentric lobe (operated by the middle rocker arm). This higher lobe gives the engine the needed boost in power at an rpm higher than 4,500. When the rpm level drops below 4,500, the oil pressure solenoid shuts off, blocking off the oil pressure and returns the engine to the normally operated two intake valves. The 2008 Accord takes this to a whole new level of valve control, allowing the engine to go from six cylinders, down to four, and even down to three cylinders. It uses a solenoid to unlock/lock the cam followers on one bank and allows the followers to float freely while the valve spring keeps the valve in the closed position.

Vehicles equipped with Hondas VCM (Variable Cylinder Management) systems also include Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) and Hondas Active Control Engine Mount (ACM) system. The ANC and ACM systems work in cooperation to cancel both noise and vibration that could occur in relation to the cylinder deactivation process. The ANC system uses the audio speakers to cancel out noise by incorporating an opposite phase sound. This whole process is controlled by the computer system and becomes imperceptible to the driver. These systems use a mechanical/electrical solenoid that operates with oil pressure to accomplish the range of variable valve timing. The VTECE system is slightly different in its configuration than the VTEC. The emission qualities have been increased but, at the same time, it performs the same functions as the VTEC system. TOYOTAS VALVEMATIC SYSTEM Toyota came out with the Valvematic system in 2008. This system uses an intermediate shaft to achieve a continuous variable valve lift. The intermediate shaft consists of followers on either side of a roller bearing. These followers rotate with respect to the roller member and finger followers (small followers) by means of an internal gear and electric motor attached to the shaft. As the shaft moves, the roller member and followers will move in opposite directions (either closer or farther apart). As the angle increases, so does the valve lift. This system can vary the valve timing to any angle needed. In 2007, the VVT-ie system was introduced on the Lexus LS460. This system is both electrical and hydraulic. The exhaust valve is still controlled by way of an oil pressure solenoid, while the intake is controlled by an electric motor on the front of the cam. This allows valve timing to be adjusted with no regard to engine temperature or oil pressure. COMMON VVT PROBLEMS The two most common codes Ive run across are P0011 and P0021 (Camshaft position sensor Bank 1 and Camshaft position sensor Bank 2, respectively). These codes (like any code) dont entirely mean the sensor is faulty, however the diagnostic charts will tell you to look at the VVT system for a fault and check the sensor as well. Some of the common areas to look into are: valve timing, oil control valve, oil control valve filter screen, camshaft timing/gears, and, of course, the electrical side of the operation as well as the PCM. The very first thing I do before turning nuts and bolts is to check the oil. Oil is an essential part of most VVT systems. Dirty oil and the lack of regular oil changes can leave a buildup of sludge or debris in the passages that lead to the pressure control valve that operates the variable valve timing. If the oil is dirty and too much sludge accumulates at the valve ports, the sludge can be passed on through the cam and the valve assembly. Then, the oil passages in the cam can be compromised and could result in a cam failure due to scored journals. Keep in mind that the VVT system is not operated at a normal driving condition rpm. For example, the Honda VTEC system doesnt operate below 4,500 rpm. So, if

you have someone who never gets the car out on the highway and never changes the oil, you can have a potential problem waiting to happen, if and when the car is revved up above 4,500 rpm the next time it heads onto an on-ramp of the local interstate highway. Code P0521 (Oil pressure sensor/switch range/performance) could be an indication of the quality of the engine oil. It might not be the best diagnostic answer, but when Ive seen this code on several vehicles, the oil was black and neglected. In some cases, the code can also indicate that the wrong type of oil has been used. I wouldnt use this as the final solution to the problem with variable valve timing, but rather an indication of things to come. Lack of regular maintenance seems to be the big factor in most of these systems. Unlike vehicles from years gone by where certain maintenance issues could be neglected, these newer engines and newer systems require the utmost in care. Stressing this point to your customers and performing the required basic maintenance per the manufacturers schedule will safeguard their vehicle and increase your profits. FUTURE OUTLOOK In my opinion, VVT will be as common as a spark plug in the near future. Reducing emissions and reducing the need for an EGR valve, improving fuel economy and getting more performance out of smaller engines tells me that the VVT systems are here to stay. The next generation of VVT systems are on the drawing boards now, and it wont be long before theyll be in the marketplace. With the latest requirements in fuel economy emerging, engines with variable valve timing will become the norm, so its time to get ahead of the curve now. About the Author
Scott
Gonzosae@aol.com

Gonzo

Weaver

Scott Gonzo Weaver is the owner of Superior Auto Electric in Tulsa, Okla. and has owned the shop for 27 years. He was given his trademark nickname Gonzo while serving in the USMC. He is the author of the book Hey Look! I Found the Loose Nut, that can be purchased online at Amazon.com or at www.gonzostoolbox.com.

The Ins and Outs Of VVT

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25 Jun 2012 by Scott 'Gonzo' Weaver

By Scott Gonzo Weaver. By the early 1990s, almost all import automotive manufacturers had a successful variable valve timing (VVT) system in production. These systems offered higher performance from smaller displacement engines at higher rpm.

As these vehicles exceeded their new car warranties, technicians learned the ins and outs of these systems and how regular oil changes could increase the life of VVT components. Now, the VVT is playing a direct role in vehicle emissions and the way gases are burned in the combustion camber.

These systems are simple from a diagnostic perspective. Most VVT components are non-serviceable and have integrated sensors. But, they are part of a larger diagnostic picture that includes everything from the throttle body to the oxygen sensor. On a conventional engine, both the exhaust and intake valves open or closed position depends on their fixed position relative to the chain or belt thats driven by the crankshaft. The pattern and timing cannot be altered, so theres no way to increase or decrease the amount of valve lap when both valves are open at the same time. As engines go, some have great low-end performance, while others have better top-end performance. (If youve ever heard an old street rod or dragster popping and rumbling at an idle, youve heard the lope from the cam. Because these engines are designed to have maximum performance at the top end, the cam is cut for better performance at the high end, so sacrifices are made at the idle end.) With VVT, the valve duration can be matched to the engine speed, torque requirements and valve overlap. Now an engine can produce both low- and high-end performance without any erratic idle condition or high-end loss. This also enables an increase in miles per gallon throughout the engines power band by controlling valve timing and making the engine more fuel-efficient.

One great advantage of the VVT system is the way it can take the force needed to expel the burnt mixture out of the exhaust valve. Pushing the exhaust gas out of a cylinder requires some of the force that is generated during the combustion stroke. Opening the exhaust valve when there is still some pressure left in the cylinder allows a small portion of the exhaust gas to escape before the

piston starts its upward travel. This reduces the exertion from the crankshaft and piston and provides a smoother, more even-running engine at every rpm level. Leaving the intake valve partially open at the right point also allows fresh air to enter the cylinder while the exhaust valve is doing its job of removing the already-burnt gases. This slight intake valve opening creates low pressure and aides the piston in pushing out the remaining gases and getting ready for the next turn of the crankshaft. This is all the result of the configuration and shape of the exhaust ports and manifolds, all of which work together and make the whole process seamless.

EGR AND VVT

One item thats going the way of the smog pump is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. The eliminat ion of the EGR valve is the result of the VVTs ability to control gases entering and exiting the combustion chamber. EGR systems are designed to reduce smog-causing nitrous oxides (NOx) by recirculating a portion of the exhaust gases from each cylinder of the engine back into the intake manifold. This process lowers the combustion temperature to under 2,500 F, above which NOx gases are formed, hurting both the environment and a vehicles performance.

EGR systems work, but they are not able to react fast enough or precise enough for modern engines and emissions standards. Modern VVT systems are doing the same job as the EGV valve, only better. A VVT system is able to control the timing of the exhaust valve so that the right amount of inert exhaust gases remain in the combustion chamber for the next combustion cycle. This controls combustion temperatures and the production of NOx. If you encounter a vehicle that has higher than normal NOx levels, or a burnt or damaged pre-catalyst, make sure the VVT solenoid and exhaust camshaft position sensor are operating properly.

HONDAS i-VTEC SYSTEM

Hondas term for a variable valve system is i-VTEC. The i-VTEC system uses an oil pressure solenoid activated electrically by the PCM to allow oil to pass into the rocker arm between the two normal rockers. This, in-turn,

locks the normally used two intake valves together with a set of pins that are pushed out ward into the two intake rockers and transfers their motion to a higher eccentric lobe (operated by the middle rocker arm). This higher lobe gives the engine the needed boost in power at an rpm higher than 4,500. When the rpm level drops below 4,500, the oil pressure solenoid shuts off, blocking off the oil pressure and returns the engine to the normally operated two intake valves. The 2008 Accord takes this to a whole new level of valve control, allowing the engine to go from six cylinders, down to four, and even down to three cylinders. It uses a solenoid to unlock/lock the cam followers on one bank and allows the followers to float freely while the valve spring keeps the valve in the closed position. Vehicles equipped with Hondas VCM (Variable Cylinder Management) systems also include Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) and Hondas Active Control Engine Mount (ACM) system. The ANC and ACM systems work in cooperation to cancel both noise and vibration that could occur in relation to the cylinder deactivation process. The ANC system uses the audio speakers to cancel out noise by incorporating an opposite phase sound. This whole process is controlled by the computer system and becomes imperceptible to the driver. These systems use a mechanical/electrical solenoid that operates with oil pressure to accomplish the range of variable valve timing. The VTECE system is slightly different in its configuration than the VTEC. The emission qualities have been increased but, at the same time, it performs the same functions as the VTEC system.

TOYOTAS VALVEMATIC SYSTEM

Toyota came out with the Valvematic system in 2008. This system uses an intermediate shaft to achieve a continuous variable valve lift. The intermediate shaft consists of followers on either side of a roller bearing. These followers rotate with respect to the roller member and finger followers (small followers) by means of an internal gear and electric motor attached to the shaft. As the shaft moves, the roller member and followers will move in opposite directions (either closer or farther apart). As the angle increases, so does the valve lift. This system can vary the valve timing to any angle needed. In 2007, the VVT-ie system was introduced on the Lexus LS460. This system is both electrical and hydraulic. The exhaust valve is still controlled by way of an oil pressure solenoid, while the intake is controlled by an electric motor on the front of the cam. This allows valve timing to be adjusted with no regard to engine temperature or oil pressure.

COMMON VVT PROBLEMS

The two most common codes Ive run across are P0011 and P0021 (Camshaft position sensor Bank 1 and Camshaft position sensor Bank 2, respectively). These codes (like any code) dont entirely mean the sensor is faulty, however the diagnostic charts will tell you to look at the VVT system for a fault and check the sensor as well. Some of the common areas to look into are: valve timing, oil control valve, oil control valve filter screen, camshaft timing/gears, and, of course, the electrical side of the operation as well as the PCM. The very first thing I do before turning nuts and bolts is to check the oil. Oil is an essential part of most VVT systems. Dirty oil and the lack of regular oil changes can leave a buildup of sludge or debris in the passages that lead to the pressure control valve that operates the variable valve timing. If the oil is dirty and too much sludge accumulates at the valve ports, the sludge can be passed on through the cam and the valve assembly.

Then, the oil passages in the cam can be compromised and could result in a cam failure due to scored journals. Keep in mind that the VVT system is not operated at a normal driving condition rpm. For example, the Honda VTEC system doesnt operate below 4,500 rpm. So, if you have someone who never gets the car out on the highway and never changes the oil, you can have a potential problem waiting to happen, if and when the car is revved up above 4,500 rpm the next time it heads onto an on-ramp of the local interstate highway. Code P0521 (Oil pressure sensor/switch range/performance) could be an indication of the quality of the engine oil. It might not be the best diagnostic answer, but when Ive seen th is code on several vehicles, the oil was black and neglected. In some cases, the code can also indicate that the wrong type of oil has been used. I wouldnt use this as the final solution to the problem with variable valve timing, but rather an indication of things to come. Lack of regular maintenance seems to be the big factor in most of these systems. Unlike vehicles from years gone by where certain maintenance issues could be neglected, these newer engines and newer systems require the utmost in care. Stressing this point to your customers and performing the required basic maintenance per the manufacturers schedule will safeguard their vehicle and increase your profits.

FUTURE OUTLOOK
In my opinion, VVT will be as common as a spark plug in the near future. Reducing emissions and reducing the need for an EGR valve, improving fuel economy and getting more performance out of smaller engines tells me that the VVT systems are here to stay. The next generation of VVT systems are on the drawing boards now, and it wont be long before theyll be in the marketplace. With the latest requirements in fuel economy emerging, engines with variable valve timing will become the norm, so its time to get ahead of the curve now.

Author Information Scott 'Gonzo' Weaver

Scott 'Gonzo' Weaver is the owner of Superior Auto Electric in Tulsa, Okla. and has owned the shop for 27 years. He was given his trademark nickname Gonzo while serving in the USMC. He is the author of the book Hey Look! I Found the Loose Nut, that can be purchased online at Amazon.com or at www.gonzostoolbox.com. Email him at Gonzosae@aol.com.

Original article published by Babcox

Content provided courtesy of autocarepro: news; providing automotive shop owners, managers and technicians with a website and e-newsletter filled with products, tech tips and automotive news needed to be successful in the marketplace.

1ZZFE 2000 - 2005 Toyota all (exc. H.O.) 1ZZFE 2000 - 2002 Geo Prizm (All above are variable valve timing engines)

Timing chain kit, from Preferred Components, includes chain, 2 sprockets, left and right guide rails, and ratcheting tensioner (small body = 1.115" diameter).

2.4L Engine

Perform this procedure on a cold engine only!

1. 2. 3. 4. Remove the right side engine under-cover. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the cylinder head cover. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the -0- mark on the timing cover. This sets the engine to No. 1 TDC compression. 5. Check that the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and VVT sprocket are aligned with the timing marks on the camshaft No.1 and 2 bearing caps.

NOTE

Valve clearance (cold) should be 0.008-0.011 inch for intake; 0.012-0.016 inch for exhaust.

1. Check the clearance on the Nos. 1 and 2 intake valves and the Nos. 1 and 3 exhaust valves, as shown. 2. Turn the crankshaft 1 full revolution clockwise (360 degrees). 3. Check the clearance on Nos. 3 and 4 intake, and Nos. 2 and 4 exhaust.

Fig. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the -0- mark on the timing cover-2.4L engine

Fig. Check that the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and VVT sprocket are aligned with the timing marks on the camshaft No.1 and 2 bearing caps2.4L engine

Fig. Check the clearance on the Nos. 1 and 2 intake valves and the Nos. 1 and 3 exhaust valves-2.4L engine

Fig. Check the clearance on Nos. 3 and 4 intake, and Nos. 2 and 4 exhaust2.4L engine

If Adjustment Is Needed

Fig. Remove the exhaust camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown-2.4L engine

Fig. Remove the intake camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown-2.4L engine

Fig. Tie the timing chain out of the way-2.4L engine

Fig. Using a micrometer, measure the lifter thickness-2.4L engine

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Reset the crankshaft to No. 1 TDC compression. Place matchmarks on the timing chain and camshaft sprockets. Remove the chain tensioner and gaskets. Loosen the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt. Remove the exhaust camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown. Lift the camshaft and remove the sprocket together with the timing chain. Remove the intake camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown. Remove the intake camshaft. Tie the timing chain out of the way as shown. For any valve needing adjustment, remove the lifter. Determine replacement lifter size.

1. Using a micrometer, measure the lifter thickness. 2. Calculate the thickness of a new liter to bring the valve clearance into the proper range. 3. Select a lifter with a thickness as close as possible to correct the specified value, from the accompanying charts. Lifters are available in 35 sizes in 0.0008 inch (0.020mm) increments from 5.060mm to 5.740mm.

Fig. An ID number inside the lifter shows the 2 decimal place size-2.4L engine

NOTE An ID number inside the lifter shows the 2 decimal place size. So, a 38 mark would indicate a lifter that is 5.38mm thick.

1. Coat the replacement lifter with clean engine oil and install it.

1. When all new lifters are installed, align the crankshaft timing mark with the -0- mark on the timing cover. 2. Hold the chain and install the intake camshaft, aligning all marks. 3. Coat the threads and heads of the bearing cap bolts with clean engine oil. 4. Torque the bolts evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown, to 22 ft. lbs. (29.5 Nm) for Nos. 1 and 2; 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) for all the others.

5. Install the exhaust camshaft, aligning all marks and install the bearing caps in the same manner as you did with the intake caps. 6. Recheck all timing marks. 7. Install the tensioner. Torque to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). 8. Recheck the valve timing by setting the crankshaft timing mark to align with the -0mark on the timing cover. All timing marks should align 9. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

NOTE Adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: Negative battery cable. If equipped with an air bag, wait at least 90 seconds before proceeding. Right front wheel, splash shield and apron seal engine undercover Coil pack Air intake hoses Cylinder head cover

3. Place the No.1 piston at TDC compression. Check only those valves shown. Record the clearance. If out of clearance, the measurement will be used to calculate the adjusting shims. 4. Place the No.4 piston at TDC compression. Check only those valves shown. Record the clearance. If out of clearance, the measurement will be used to calculate the adjusting shims.

Clearance range is:

Intake: 0.19-0.29mm

Exhaust: 0.30-0.40mm

To adjust the valves:

1. Turn the crankshaft 1 complete revolution (360 degrees) clockwise and set the No.1 piston at TDC compression. Place matchmarks on the chain and camshaft sprocket. 2. Remove the tensioner. 3. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt. 4. Remove the exhaust camshaft bearing caps, raise the camshaft and remove the sprocket. Tie the chain out of the way. 5. Remove the intake camshaft. 6. Remove the lifters and keep them in order. 7. Measure the thickness of any lifter on which the clearance was out of range. Calculate the thickness of the necessary replacement lifter. Lifters are available in 0.020mm increments from 5.060mm to 5.740mm. 8. For Camshaft and Timing Chain installation, see the respective procedures in this section.

Perform this procedure on a cold engine only!

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. NOTE Wait at least 90 seconds after disconnecting the negative battery cable before starting any repair work to prevent air bag and seat belt pretensioner activation.

3. 4. 5. 6.

Remove the right side engine undercover. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the cylinder head cover. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the -0- mark on the timing cover. This sets the engine to No. 1 TDC compression. 7. Check that the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and VVT sprocket are aligned with the timing marks on the camshaft No.1 and 2 bearing caps. NOTE Valve clearance (cold) should be 0.008-0.011 inch for intake; 0.012-0.016 inch for exhaust.

8. Check the clearance on the Nos. 1 and 2 intake valves and the Nos. 1 and 3 exhaust valves, as shown. 9. Turn the crankshaft 1 full revolution clockwise (360 degrees). 10. Check the clearance on Nos. 3 and 4 intake, and Nos. 2 and 4 exhaust.

Fig. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the -0- mark on the timing cover-2.4L engine

Fig. Check that the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and VVT sprocket are aligned with the timing marks on the camshaft No.1 and 2 bearing caps2.4L engine

Fig. Check the clearance on the Nos. 1 and 2 intake valves and the Nos. 1 and 3 exhaust valves-2.4L engine

Fig. Check the clearance on Nos. 3 and 4 intake, and Nos. 2 and 4 exhaust2.4L engine

If Adjustment Is Needed

Fig. Remove the exhaust camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown-2.4L engine

Fig. Remove the intake camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown-2.4L engine

Fig. Tie the timing chain out of the way-2.4L engine

Fig. Using a micrometer, measure the lifter thickness-2.4L engine

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Reset the crankshaft to No. 1 TDC compression. Place matchmarks on the timing chain and camshaft sprockets. Remove the chain tensioner and gaskets. Loosen the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt. Remove the exhaust camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown. Lift the camshaft and remove the sprocket together with the timing chain. Remove the intake camshaft bearing caps, evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown. Remove the intake camshaft. Tie the timing chain out of the way as shown. For any valve needing adjustment, remove the lifter. Determine replacement lifter size. a. Using a micrometer, measure the lifter thickness.

b. Calculate the thickness of a new liter to bring the valve clearance into the proper range. c. Select a lifter with a thickness as close as possible to correct the specified value, from the accompanying charts. Lifters are available in 35 sizes in 0.0008 inch (0.020mm) increments from 5.060mm to 5.740mm. NOTE An ID number inside the lifter shows the 2 decimal place size. So, a 38 mark would indicate a lifter that is 5.38mm thick.

Fig. An ID number inside the lifter shows the 2 decimal place size2.4L engine

Fig. Intake valve lifter size selection chart-2.4L engine

Fig. Exhaust valve lifter size selection chart-2.4L engine

d. Coat the replacement lifter with clean engine oil and install it.

10. When all new lifters are installed, align the crankshaft timing mark with the -0- mark on the timing cover. 11. Hold the chain and install the intake camshaft, aligning all marks. 12. Coat the threads and heads of the bearing cap bolts with clean engine oil. 13. Torque the bolts evenly, in several passes, in the sequence shown, to 22 ft. lbs. (29.5 Nm) for Nos. 1 and 2; 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) for all the others. 14. Install the exhaust camshaft, aligning all marks and install the bearing caps in the same manner as you did with the intake caps. 15. Recheck all timing marks. 16. Install the tensioner. Torque to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). 17. Recheck the valve timing by setting the crankshaft timing mark to align with the -0mark on the timing cover. All timing marks should align 18. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

2.7L Engines

1. 2. 3. 4.

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine coolant. Remove or disconnect the following: Intake air connector

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hoses Spark plug wires Engine wiring harness clamps and harness Air conditioning compressor connector, if equipped with air conditioning Oil pressure sensor connector Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector Distributor connector Cylinder head cover

5. Set the No. 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke, as follows: a. Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise and align its groove with the 0 mark on the timing chain cover. b. Check that the timing marks (1 and 2 dots) of the camshaft drive and driven gears are in a straight line on the cylinder head surface. If not, turn the crankshaft 1 revolution (360 degrees) and align the marks.

6. Inspect the valve clearance, as follows: a. Measure the clearance between the valve lifter and the camshaft. Measure the 1st and 2nd intake and the 1st and 3rd exhaust valves. b. Turn the crankshaft pulley 1 revolution (360 degrees) and align the marks as above. Measure the 3rd and 4th intake and the 2nd and 4th exhaust valves.

7. Valve clearance cold should be: Intake: 0.006-0.010 in. (0.15-0.25mm) Exhaust: 0.010-0.014 in. (0.25-0.35mm)

8. Adjust the valve clearance by using adjusting shims, as follows: a. Turn the camshaft so the cam lobe for the valve to be adjusted faces up. b. Using SST 09248-55040, press down the valve lifter and place SST 0924805420, between the camshaft and the valve lifter. Remove SST 0924855040.

c. Remove the adjusting shim with a small flat prying tool and a magnetic finger. d. Determine the replacement adjusting shim size according to the following formula or use the adjusting shim charts. e. Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the removed shim. Calculate the thickness of a new shim so the valve clearance comes within the specified value. T: Thickness of the removed shim A: Measured valve clearance N: Thickness of the new shim

f. Intake: N = T + (A-0.008 in. (0.20mm)) g. Exhaust: N = T + (A-0.012 in. (0.30mm)) h. Install a new adjusting shim. Place it on the valve lifter. Using the SST 0924855040, press down the valve lifter and remove SST 09248-05420. i. Recheck the valve clearance.

9. Install or connect the following: Cylinder head cover Engine wiring harness and clamps Distributor connector ECT sensor connector Oil pressure sensor connector Air conditioning compressor connector, if disconnected Spark plug wires PCV hoses Intake air connector Negative battery cable

10. Refill with engine coolant. 11. Check the ignition timing.

3.0L Engine

NOTE Adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: Negative battery cable. If equipped with an air bag, wait at least 90 seconds before proceeding. Accelerator/throttle cable from the throttle linkage Air cleaner cover, air flow meter and air duct assembly V-bank cover Emission control valve set Air intake chamber Engine harness from the injectors and the ignition coils Ignition coils and keep them in order for reassembly Spark plugs Cylinder head covers

3. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing mark 0 of the No. 1 timing cover. 4. Check that the valve lifters on the No. 1 intake are loose and the No. 1 exhaust are tight. If not, turn the crankshaft 1 complete revolution (360 degrees). NOTE

All measurements should be written down. These recorded measurements will need to be used in conjunction with a mathematical formula to determine the thickness of the replacement shims.

5. Measure the clearance between the valve lifters and the camshaft. Record the measurements on valves No. 1 and 6 intake; No. 2 and 3 exhaust.

Fig. Adjust these valves during the 1st step-3.0L

a. The intake valve clearance cold is 0.006-0.010 in. (0.15-0.25mm). b. The exhaust valve clearance cold is 0.010-0.014 in. (0.25-0.35mm).

6. Turn the crankshaft 2 / 3 of a revolution (240 degrees). Record the measurements on valves No. 2 and 3 intake; No. 4 and 5 exhaust.

Fig. Adjust these valves during the 2nd step-3.0L

7. Turn the crankshaft another 2 / 3 of a revolution. Record the measurements on valves No. 4 and 5 intake; No. 1 and 6 exhaust.

Fig. Adjust these valves during the 3rd step-3.0L

8. Remove the adjusting shim by turning the crankshaft to position the cam lobe of the camshaft in the up position on the valve to be adjusted. Using a small thin flat bladed tool, turn the valve lifter so that the notches are perpendicular to the camshaft. Press down the valve lifter with tool 09248-55010 part A. Place too 0924855010 part B between the camshaft and the valve lifter; remove part A. 9. Remove the adjusting shim with a magnet and a small screwdriver. 10. Determine the replacement adjusting shim size by either using the charts or the following formulas: Intake: N = T + (A - 0.008 in./0.020mm) Exhaust: N = T + (A - 0.012 in./0.30mm) T = Thickness of removed shim A = Measured valve clearance N = Thickness of new shim

11. Select a new shim with a thickness as close as possible to the calculated value. Install the new replacement shim. NOTE

Shims are available in 17 sizes in increments of 0.0020 in. (0.050mm), from 0.0984 in. (2.500mm) to 0.1299 in. (3.300mm).

12. Recheck the valve clearance. 13. Install or connect the following:

Toyota V8UZ Engine Timing Belt Issues

2/22/2012 By Larry Bailly

When I first started researching this article, I called and stopped by several shops that do work on Toyota vehicles.

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I asked if any of them had any V8 models coming in for timing belts so I could get some pictures of the process. Either a blank stare, or a question like: What Toyota V8? was the general response. The idea that there was a Toyota V8 needing a timing belt replacement seems to be generally unknown in the aftermarket. With a million or more potential timing belt jobs out there on the various models with beltdriven cams, its time to get up-to-date on the service of these engines. All are considered interference engines that could have serious damage if the belt breaks. On all belt-driven Toyota V8 engines, the water pump is also driven by the cam belt. A Look Back In actuality, the Toyota family of cars has had a V8 engine available for use since about 1963, just not in the U.S. That might explain how those old Toyota sedans could keep up with James Bond in a Toyota 2000GT in You Only Live Twice, filmed in Japan in 1967. Both the 2000GT and the Toyota 8-cylinder V configuration engines were produced in the mid-1960s with help from Yamaha. This engine series was never sold in a car in the

U.S., but was used in other markets until the late 1990s. This engine is often referred to as the Toyota hemi, as it had hemispherical combustion chambers. The modern Toyota V8 we are familiar with was originally used in the Lexus LS series starting in 1989. This engine series (UZ) is still around in great numbers, though it has been redesigned and upgraded a number of times. The engine was even certified for aircraft use in a twin-turbocharged version! The second series 2UZ-FE at 4.7L and with a cast-iron block, was installed in the Toyota Land Cruiser starting in 1998 as well as the Lexus LX 470. It has been available in other Toyota truck lines since the 2000 model year. With the addition of VVT-i technology (variable valve timing with intelligence), this engine became the standard engine for Toyota V8 trucks up to 2010 (2011 in the Land Cruiser). The other engine in the UZ series is the 3UZ-FE and at 4.3L and all aluminum, it was available only in Lexus vehicles or for racing-only models. The UZ engine has been replaced across the Toyota and Lexus lines by the UR series, which uses a chain to drive the camshafts. The 5.7L V8 is the sales leader in the Tundra and Sequoia. It is a UR motor, so this article doesnt apply. With that in mind, when a customer or installer calls in to inquire, you need to determine which engine is in the vehicle before making any service quotes, especially at the recommended 90,000-mile service interval that Toyota lists for the timing belt on the UZ engines. The other current Toyota V8 engine is the NASCAR engine known as the Tundra Racing V8. Designed, developed and produced in the U.S. by Toyota Racing Development (TRD), this engine is a pushrod design, and certainly does not have a timing belt. Installer Repair Cautions Each of the various models that use the V8 engines have specific items that must be removed to allow access to the timing belt and allow room to remove the accessories, belt drives and timing covers. Repair times quoted are somewhat misleading for some models. If there are any indications of oil leakage at the front of the engine and a possibility of having to replace seals is necessary (cam seals), the repair time can double if the valve covers and camshafts have to be removed (VVT-i engines). If the camshafts need to be removed to replace the cam seals, it would be good to measure the valve clearances before disassembly so the necessary shims can be replaced in the process. Obviously, if there is any evidence of sludge buildup with the valve covers off, address the issue with your customer. Since the engines that have VVT-i rely on oil pressure to control camshaft timing, sludge can be a killer. In a search of pattern failures on these engines, its very obvious that the source of many problems is the use of non-OE or OE-equivalent timing belts. Tooth count and timing alignment markings are critical, especially on the VVT-i engines. Be careful to compare the replacement belt to the original for tooth count between the alignment markings, as even a half tooth might make you redo the job. A belt that does not have alignment marks identical to the OE belt should not even be installed. Another source of codes and driveability complaints after belt replacement is damage to the crankshaft position sensor reluctor wheel, that must come off during the process of replacing the belt. Extreme care should be taken to prevent any scratches or other damage to the wheel. Harsh cleaners or abrasives should not be used to clean this part or any of the pulleys or sprockets. Typical codes that are related to timing belt

misalignment or potential sensor wheel damage are P0011, P0021, P0016 or P0018. Timing Belt Replacement Due to the size of this engine, clearances are very tight for the timing belt repair, especially on the smaller 4Runner. The Tundra, Sequoia, Land Cruiser and Lexus car and truck models have more room, but are still tight for removal of some of the accessories. You will need a tool to hold the crankshaft pulley to remove the crankshaft bolt, and you may need a puller to get the pulley to release from the crankshaft. The rest of the job is pretty straightforward. Do not consider this article to be a replacement for the proper repair information for the model you or your installer are working on. Rather, this article is intended to give you a heads up on some things to look out for; its not an instruction manual. Since the water pump is run by the timing belt on these cars, and you will be removing some of the cooling system components, include refilling and bleeding of the system, or a complete coolant replacement, as part of the job estimate. As noted above, if any indication of oil leakage is observed on first removal of the timing belt covers, take the time to read through the procedure for camshaft removal and seal replacement before proceeding on VVT-i models. 1. Start by removing the ignition key and putting it somewhere known only to you. Once the timing belt is off, a touch of the key for any reason could spell problems. 2. You will need to remove the upper engine covers; use care with the plastic pieces. The lower engine shields could be left in place, but working around them would add time to the job. Due to a sometimes difficult-to-remove crankshaft pulley bolt, its much easier to remove the radiator (after removing the shroud), especially if you are planning to do cooling system work. You will need to drain the cooling system anyway to remove the water manifold. 3. The serpentine belt tensioner is released by putting a socket on the pulley bolt and turning it counterclockwise (the pulley bolt is left-hand threaded). Once the drive belt is off, you can unbolt, but dont remove the various accessories (alternator, compressor, power steering pump). Toyota does a good job of providing enough slack in the connecting pieces to allow the various pieces to be moved out of the way enough to get the covers off and provide working room. 4. The fan is supported by a bracket and bearing assembly that must be removed. Keep track of where the various length bolts come from. 5. Before removing the covers for the timing belt, mark the timing marks on the cover and crankshaft pulley so they are easy to see. On VVT-i models, read and head the warning sticker pertaining to the timing adjustment sprockets. Removing the wrong bolts will cause a lot of headaches, and you cannot replace the camshaft seals from the outside. 6. Once the timing covers are off, in sequence, line up the timing marks, again making paint marks on the pulleys and rear covers to allow easier alignment. Now comes the time to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley. Its easy if you removed the radiator, but difficult at times if the radiator is in place. An old timers trick is to place a thin piece of wood or cardboard over the face of the radiator to protect it. 7. Once the pulley bolt and pulley are removed, recheck alignment of the timing marks. If they dont line up perfectly (within 1/2 tooth), turn the engine over by hand, one rotation, and recheck. Turn the crankshaft approximately 50 degrees clockwise, then backward to TDC to relieve tension in the camshaft timing gears. The timing marks should be lined up

at this point. If not, determine the reason (jumped timing, failed tensioner, failed idler pulley bearings) and make sure that its corrected during the repair. 8. Remove the hydraulic tensioner by loosening the bolts alternately. Take the tensioner and dust cover out and reset and pin the tensioner. Check it for obvious leakage or weakness. You may need to rotate the right- side (passenger-side) camshaft slightly to relieve tension on the belt between the crankshaft and right cam. 9. If youre using an OE or OE-equivalent timing belt, it should have three alignment marks and arrows pointing to the front. There should be obvious markings for the left and right cam and crankshaft. If there are markings remaining on the original belt, lay the two belts together and verify that the belts are marked the same. Reports of aftermarket, nonOE equivalent belts being mismarked are quite common. 10. Before starting reassembly, check for leaks from the water pump, seals or front engine cover area. Check for smooth bearings in the idlers and for any deterioration or scratching of the belt sprockets. Make sure that the cupped side of the crankshaft belt guide/reluctor wheel is to the outside, and treat the guide as a VIP (very important part). 11. Using the painted marks you made earlier, turn the cam sprockets just slightly to make installing the timing belt easier. Turn the right-side sprocket 1 tooth clockwise and the left-side a tooth clockwise. Make sure the crankshaft is still aligned properly and install the belt with the printed marks lined up on the various shafts. Start at the crankshaft, then the left-side idler and camshaft, go around the water pump and then the right-side sprocket and tensioner pulley. 12. Install the tensioner hydraulic unit, tighten to spec and remove the retaining pin. Allow a couple of minutes for the tensioner to fully tension the belt, then turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise, back to TDC and recheck the alignment of all timing marks. If theyre not correct, start over with the belt installation. Reassemble in reverse order using a torque wrench on all fasteners to prevent pulling or damaging threads in the aluminum housings. 13. Refill the cooling system, using a vacuum type filler system to prevent overheating due to air pockets. Finishing Up There really isnt anything about this job that is out of the ordinary. If youve done the hundreds of Toyota V6s that most professional technicians and engine builders have, you will find this job a piece of cake. Just realize that with VVT-i technology, some procedures and cautions need to be researched before you start taking things apart. Remember that the vast majority (70-90%) of Tundra and Sequoia models have the 5.7L engine, so there is no timing belt. That also means that the other 20-30% will need a timing belt as maintenance, so there are jobs to be sold. The sheer numbers of these vehicles that have been sold over the last 20 years (Lexus models) means there are a lot of opportunities to provide service to your customer better to sell as maintenance than a repair. Since these vehicles may have engine damage if a belt breaks or jumps time, preventive maintenance makes a lot of sense. Larry Bailly is an import specialist contributor to Import Car magazine, Engine Builders sister publication.

The second series 2UZ-FE at 4.7L and with a cast-iron block, was installed in the Toyota Land Cruiser starting in 1998 as well as the Lexus LX 470. It has been available in other Toyota truck lines since the 2000 model year.

With the addition of VVT-i technology (variable valve timing with intelligence), this engine became the standard engine for Toyota V8 trucks up to 2010 (2011 in the Land Cruiser).

Due to the size of this engine, clearances are very tight for the timing belt repair, especially on the smaller 4Runner.

Oil leaks at the front of the engine could lead to major removal if the leak is at the cam seals on VVT-i models.

Painting marks before disassembly makes alignment much easier.

Even a stodgie 4-door sedan can run with the big boys with a hemi V8. Both the 2000GT and the Japanese market-only Toyota 8-cylinder V configuration engines were produced in the mid-1960s with help from Yamaha.

Turn the crankshaft approximately 50 degrees clockwise, then backward to TDC to relieve tension in the camshaft timing gears. The timing marks should be lined up at this point. If not, determine the reason and make sure that its corrected during the repair.

Removal & Installation

1ZZ-FE Engines 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: Negative battery cable Right side engine under cover Cylinder head cover Suction hose sub-assembly, 2ZZ-GE engine Drive belt Power steering pump reservoir and position it aside, 1ZZ-FE engine

3. Place a jack with a wooden block under the vehicle for support, then remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts and remove the right side engine mount. 4. Remove the engine wire, on 1ZZ-FE engines: 1. Remove the 5 clamps from the brackets.

2. Detach the connectors. 3. Remove the ignition coil connectors. 4. Bolt and nut holding the engine wire.

5. Remove or disconnect the following: Ignition coil assembly Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hoses from the valve cover Valve (cylinder head) cover sub-assembly

6. Set the No. 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compressor stroke as follows: 1. Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with the -0- timing mark of the timing chain cover. 2. Make sure the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets and VVT timing sprockets are in a straight line as shown. If not, turn the crankshaft 1 complete revolution (360) and align the marks.

7. Remove the drive belt tensioner.

Fig. With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-GE similar

With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-GE similar

Fig. Proper timing mark alignment for TDC

Proper timing mark alignment for TDC

WARNING Do not turn the crankshaft without the tensioner installed.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Make sure the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke. Matchmark the timing chain and camshaft sprockets Remove the 2 nuts and chain tensioner. Hold the camshafts with a wrench and loosen the camshaft set bolt. Using several passes, gradually remove the bearing cap bolts from the No. 2 camshaft, in the proper sequence. 6. Remove the camshaft and timing gear as shown. 7. Using several passes, gradually remove the bearing cap bolts from the other camshaft, in the proper sequence. 8. Remove the camshaft while holding the timing chain.

Fig. Matchmark the timing chain and cam sprockets

Matchmark the timing chain and cam sprockets

Fig. Hold the camshaft with a wrench while removing the set bolt
Hold the camshaft with a wrench while removing the set bolt

Fig. Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Fig. Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-2ZZ-GE engine

Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-2ZZ-GE engine

Fig. Carefully remove the cam and timing gear

Carefully remove the cam and timing gear

Fig. Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

WARNING Do not let anything drop down into the timing chain cover while the camshafts are removed.

1. Tie the timing chain with a string as shown, to prevent it from dropping down into the timing chain cover.

Fig. Secure the timing chain with string to prevent it from slipping down into the timing chain cover

Secure the timing chain with string to prevent it from slipping down into the timing chain cover

To install:

Fig. Exploded view of the camshafts and related components-1ZZ-FE engine

Exploded view of the camshafts and related components-1ZZ-FE engine

Fig. Exploded view of the camshafts and related components-2ZZ-GE engine

Exploded view of the camshafts and related components-2ZZ-GE engine 1. Position the camshaft on the cylinder head, then install the timing chain on the cam timing gear, with the painted links aligned with the marks on the timing gear.

2. Check the front marks and numbers and torque the camshaft cap bolts, in sequence, to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm) for 1ZZ-FE engine, or to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) for 2ZZ-GE engines. 3. Put camshaft No. 2 on the cylinder head, with the painted links of the chain aligned with the mark on the timing gear. 4. Tighten the camshaft gear set bolt temporarily. 5. Check the front marks and numbers and torque the camshaft cap bolts, in sequence, to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm). Install the No. 1 bearing cap and tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). 6. Hold the camshaft secure with a wrench and tighten the set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Be careful not the damage the lifters. 7. Check to be sure the matchmarks on the timing chain and cam sprockets, and the alignment of the pulley groove with the timing mark on the cover are still aligned. 8. Install the chain tensioner: 1. Make sure the O-ring is clean, then set the hook as shown.

Fig. Set the timing chain tensioner hook properly

Set the timing chain tensioner hook properly 2. Oil the tensioner, then install and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

Fig. Make sure the alignment marks on the timing chain and camshaft gear match up
Make sure the alignment marks on the timing chain and camshaft gear match up

Fig. Camshaft cap bolt tightening sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Camshaft cap bolt tightening sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Fig. Camshaft cap bolt tightening sequence-2ZZ-GE engine

Camshaft cap bolt tightening sequence-2ZZ-GE engine

Fig. Camshaft cap bolt tightening sequence-1ZZ-FE

Camshaft cap bolt tightening sequence-1ZZ-FE

NOTE When installing the tensioner, set the hook again if the hook releases the plunger.

1. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, and disconnect the plunger knock pin from the hook.

2. Turn the crankshaft clockwise and check that the slipper is pushed by the plunger. If the plunger does not spring out, press the slipper into the chain tensioner with a screwdriver so that the hook is released from the knock pin and the plunger springs out.

1. Check the valve clearance and make adjustments as needed. 2. Install or connect the following: Belt tensioner. Tighten the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) and the bolt to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm). Cylinder head sub-assembly cover. Install seal packing into the locations shown and install within 3 minutes. Tighten the -A- bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm) and the -B- bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) for 1ZZ-FE engine and to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm) for 2ZZ-GE engines.

Fig. Seal packing installation locations

Seal packing installation locations

Fig. Cylinder head (valve) cover bolt locations-1ZZ-FE engine

Cylinder head (valve) cover bolt locations-1ZZ-FE engine Ignition coil assembly. Torque the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Engine wire and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) Right side engine mount. Tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm). Cylinder head (valve) cover Negative battery cable

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: Negative battery cable Right side engine under cover Cylinder head cover Suction hose sub-assembly, 2ZZ-FE ENGINE Drive belt Power steering pump reservoir and position it aside, 1ZZ-FE engine

3. Place a jack with a wooden block under the vehicle for support, then remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts and remove the right side engine mount.

Fig. With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-FEsimilar
With the engine supported, remove the right side engine mount-1ZZ-FE engine shown, 2ZZ-FEsimilar 4. Remove the engine wire, on 1ZZ-FE engines: a. Remove the 5 clamps from the brackets. b. Detach the connectors. c. Remove the ignition coil connectors. d. Bolt and nut holding the engine wire.

5. Remove or disconnect the following: Ignition coil assembly Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hoses from the valve cover Valve (cylinder head) cover sub-assembly

6. Set the No. 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compressor stroke as follows: a. Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with the -0- timing mark of the timing chain cover.

b. Make sure the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets and VVT timing sprockets are in a straight line as shown. If not, turn the crankshaft 1 complete revolution (360) and align the marks.

Fig. Proper timing mark alignment for TDC

Proper timing mark alignment for TDC 7. 8. Remove the drive belt tensioner. WARNING Do not turn the crankshaft without the tensioner installed.

9. Make sure the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke. 10. Matchmark the timing chain and camshaft sprockets

Fig. Matchmark the timing chain and cam sprockets

Matchmark the timing chain and cam sprockets 11. Remove the 2 nuts and chain tensioner.

Fig. Hold the camshaft with a wrench while removing the set bolt
Hold the camshaft with a wrench while removing the set bolt 12. Hold the camshafts with a wrench and loosen the camshaft set bolt. 13. Using several passes, gradually remove the bearing cap bolts from the No. 2 camshaft, in the proper sequence.

Fig. Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Fig. Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-2ZZ-FE ENGINE

Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-2ZZ-FE ENGINE 14. Remove the camshaft and timing gear as shown.

Fig. Carefully remove the cam and timing gear

Carefully remove the cam and timing gear 15. Using several passes, gradually remove the bearing cap bolts from the other camshaft, in the proper sequence.

Fig. Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine

Camshaft bearing cap bolt removal sequence-1ZZ-FE engine 16. Remove the camshaft while holding the timing chain. WARNING Do not let anything drop down into the timing chain cover while the camshafts are removed.

17. Tie the timing chain with a string as shown, to prevent it from dropping down into the timing chain cover.

Fig. Secure the timing chain with string to prevent it from slipping down into the timing chain cover
Secure the timing chain with string to prevent it from slipping down into the timing chain cover

To install:

Fig. Exploded view of the camshafts and related components-1ZZ-FE engine

Exploded view of the camshafts and related components-1ZZ-FE engine

Fig. Exploded view of the camshafts and related components-2ZZ-FE ENGINE

TOYOTA VVT-i: Its All a Matter of Timing

Just when you begin thinking that engineers have gotten everything out of the internal-combustion that they can get out of it, they come up with something new that gets more out of it. Heres a case in point: Variable Valve Timing-intelligent, or VVT-i. VVT-i is a way to enhance performance, economy and emissions through control of the phasing, or timing, of an engines camshafts.

Stick with me, now, Im going to get technical: The valves that admit air-fuel mixture into the engines combustion chambers, and that open to allow the burned gasses to be pushed out as exhaust, are controlled by egg-shaped lobes on these camshafts, as you see on the image to the left. The shape of those lobes, and their positioning on the shaft, determine a cams timing. In most cases, cam timing is fixed, and that means that its a compromise that provides optimal performance only at the speed at which the engine is likely to do most of its work. But engines operate over a wide range of speeds, from an idle speed of about 600 rpm to a peak speed of more than 6,000 rpm. What if cam timing could be optimized over the engines entire operating range? Thats precisely what VVT-i does. Using a combination of electronics and hydraulics, VVT-i allows the intake cam to change phase, or timing, over a range of about 30 degrees. Changing the cam timing improves engine breathing at all rpm because the combustion chambers get an optimized volume of air/fuel mixture over a broader range of conditions. The result is more power, more torque, reduced emissions and enhanced fuel economy.

But what if we were able to change the phase of not just the intake cam, but also the exhaust cam? Thats exactly what Dual VVT-i does. By varying the phasing of the exhaust cam by about 30 degrees, we can vary the phasing of the intake cam by a wider range by about 45 degrees. That means theres a broader range over which we can open and close the intake valves. And that means we can extract still more power, torque, economy and better emissions. The way this all works is that a computer controls an oil pump, which controls an oil pressure valve. This valve controls oil pressure in two chambers of the cam-sprocket housing. Based on the oil pressure on both sides of a cam vane inside the sprocket housing, seen here in the below image, the cams timing will advance or retard. More oil pressure on one side of the vane rotates the cam in one direction, more oil pressure on the other side of the vane rotates it the other way. This of course is independent of its basic operational rotation, which is provided by the cams chain drive The oil pressure that controls cam position is, in its turn, based on rpm, load and throttle input. Its all quite nicely and efficiently managed; the systems operation is seamless, and works as quickly as a computer can think. Applied to any of our engines, dual VVT-i results in 10-12% more horsepower and torque, and in improved efficiency. The system also performs the function of exhaust-gas recirculation (EGR) without the external hardware usually associated with this function. It works by leaving the intake valve open just a little, early on the pistons exhaust stroke. This lets the piston blow a little exhaust gas back into the intake tract which is basically what an external EGR system does. So theres no need for a separate EGR system. Theres another benefit, as well. Use of VVT-i basically trumps cylinder deactivation. Cylinder deactivation, of course, is a way to burn less fuel by allowing a V8 engine, for instance, to run on as few as four cylinders. But cylinder deactivation works best on unladen vehicle driven at small throttle openings. If you add a load or if you accelerate, the engine has to work harder, so it picks up cylinders again and becomes a full V8. The benefits of the technology disappear. Indeed, testing has shown that its hard to keep these engines in cylinder-deactivation mode. If you accelerate or add a load, they go to full V8 mode, and you lose the benefits of the system. VVT-i, on the other hand, is active all the time. It provides its benefits all the time, loaded or unloaded, to optimize economy, emissions and horsepower. Thats why were so enthusiastic about it. From: Toyota Blog.

VTC ) (

(Variable Timing Cam

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Valve Timing Control System

Variable ..... Variables ( ) ( ) ..... Variables Variables Timing Cam = ( ) (Variable Valve Event and Lift Control system (VEL

 VEL operating principle

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1. #1 BlueStreak

Sponsor

Join Date Oct 2007 Posts 1,003 How To: Assemble A Forged MZR DISI Motor I have been meaning to do this for a while but have procrastinated like no other. Its about time I got to it. For those who don't know. I built two forged motors that are identical in every way save for the oil cap; mine is the red aluminum MazdaSpeed unit and the second one is the plastic pos. The first engine is currently in my car and the second one is neatly packaged in the house looking for a new home. The pictures below were taken from both builds. If you see a mild change of scenery, you'll know why. Also, towards the end, the pictures get a little spotty (I'm missing a few) so I'll try to explain it as best as possible. Onto the walkthrough. Prepare your workstation and put the block onto the engine stand. Lay everything out neatly so you know where it goes. By the end of the assembly, your shit will be everywhere but at least you tried, right?

Grab the oil squirters and attach them to the block. With the Wiseco and Carillo setup, I had to slightly bend the squirter further to the center so the piston skirt wouldn't make contact. Don't bend them too much as you may weaken the metal.

Prep balance shaft delete kit and install it. I put some threadlock onto the bolts for peace of mind.

Grab some assembly lube and with your finger, spread it onto the bearing journal on the block.

Lay out the main bearings in order. My engine builder (Competition Automotive) numbered them from 1 to 5. Bearing number 1 goes at the front of the engine (timing chain side). The bearings come in two pieces; ones with oil passages and ones without. The halves with oil passages are positioned on the block side and the halves without get positioned on the girdle side. Also notice that the half with the oil passages on bearing 3 is different. This is the

thrust bearing and gets mounted on the block side (as mentioned earlier).

Grab the bearing halves with the oil passages, apply assembly lube on the inside of the bearing with your finger then position them on the block. Make sure they are properly centered in the journal.

Next, grab the crank and drop it in (slowly!).

Apply assembly lube onto the main bearing portion of the crank in preparation for the other bearing halves.

Position the bottom halves of the bearings onto the crank in numbered order.

Grab your ARP MAIN studs and apply a generous amount of ARP Ultra-Torque lube onto the threaded portion without the hex shape on the end. Thread the studs into the block.

There are 10 main studs total. I found that it took a while to thread these things in without some assistance so I grabbed the proper hex head, put it on a screw driver handle and went to town. Be sure that you thread the studs all the way down until they stop. DO NOT ADD TORQUE TO THE STUDS ONCE THEY BOTTOM OUT AND DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS. If you do either, you should be slapped.

Apply assembly lube to the girdle journals. Don't be stingy but don't go nuts (this applies to using the lube on any necessary surface on the motor).

Gingerly align the girdle onto the studs and drop it in. The girdle only fits in one way without resistance. If you fail at putting together a puzzle, don't assemble a motor.

Grab the ARP Ultra-Torque lube and apply it liberally to the stud tops. Then, insert the washers and nuts accordingly. Hand tighten them down.

ARP recommends tightening the girdle down in 3 passes to a maximum of 60ftlbs. Ensure you tighten them in the proper order (pictured below) in 20ft-lbs increments.

The crank is now securely fastened. Rotate the block upright for the next phase of the build. Also, grab your old crank pulley bolt and thread it into the crank; it'll become quite useful.

Lay your piston/rod (with rings) assemblies and corresponding rod bearings onto a flat surface. I had Competition Automotive assemble the piston to the rod for a small fee. On the second motor (pictured here), the also put the rings on. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of the ring install from the first motor so I'm going to skip this step.

Grab piston/rod number 1, remove the rod cap, apply lube to the inner AND outer portion of the bearing halve for rod 1 and press it in. It'll require the tiniest bit of force for it to seat properly. Note the notch on the upper right-hand corner of the rod and the corresponding notch in the bearing; they only seat one way.

Apply some motor oil to the outside of the piston. Don't be stingy but don't go nuts; apply enough. Then, position the piston/rod combo into your ring compressor tool. Ensure the piston top is parallel to the top of the ring compressor and that the piston skirt hangs out juuuust a little; it'll help with alignment.

Stuff a shop towel down the cylinder bore to prevent the rod from nicking the crank when it drops in. Lube the inside of the cylinder wall with some motor oil then position the piston/rod combo with ring compressor on top. Ensure the ring compressor tool is perfectly centered AND that the valve reliefs on the piston tops are facing the PCV/water pump side of the engine.

While holding the compressor tool with one hand, use the rubber handle of a hammer to gently tap the piston/rod down the cylinder bore. Competition Automotive said I could do it in one shot but I was too much of a wuss to do it that way; I went with the multiple-gentle-tap method. (not pictured unfortunately).

IF you feel any sort of resistance while trying to tap the piston/rod down the

bore, chances are one of the rings is resting on top of the block surface which is preventing the whole assembly from going in. Remove the piston/rod, reposition it in the ring compressor and try again

Drivers Seat Diagnostics

Figure 1: 2006 Lincoln Navigator with a 5.4L and a rough-running engine complaint I was called to a shop on a 2006 Lincoln Navigator (Figure #1) 5.4L with a complaint of a rough-running engine. The techs pulled some O2 sensor lean and rich codes along with some variable valve timing codes. They were not too familiar with the operation of the variable valve timing system on this vehicle, so they decided to get a more in-depth diagnosis before making any major decisions on where to go. When it comes to variable valve timing systems, there are indeed a lot of variables involved. The basic strategy of the PCM is to determine how much duty cycle it will provide to each cam actuator solenoid to allow oil pressure to pass through the cam actuator thus moving the camshaft gear on the end of the camshaft to accommodate an advance or retard position relative to that of the crank. A lot can go wrong, such as a sticking solenoid or actuator, or even clogged oil passages. Blame poor oil maintenance, or wear and tear from high mileage. There are also electrical failures such as open or shorted actuator solenoid circuits, or a possible failure of the solenoid driver within the PCM.

Figure 2: A Generic Escan tool to pull and verify the codes that had already been retrieved When I arrived at the shop I hooked up my generic Escan tool just to pull and verify the codes that had already been retrieved (Figure #2). There were P0011 and P0022, which related to the position of Bank #1s camshaft being over-advanced, and Bank #2s camshaft being over-retarded. The PCM in this vehicle was using two camshaft positioning sensors to perform a check and balance of the variable valve timing system. The command was given to each camshaft to move to a certain position while the PCM had the ability to validate if the camshaft sprockets were actually in the correct commanded positions. There were also O2 codes P2195 and P2198 stored in memory stating that Bank #1 was running lean while Bank #2 was running rich. These O2 codes were in the mi,x but you need to keep in mind that an engine with mechanical or hydraulic problems can easily mess up the fuel trims and create a lean or rich condition. So, I decided to home in on VVT.

Figure 3: Power braked the engine to wide open throttle and graphed my readings within the program I knew that a valve timing issue would easily show up in a volumetric efficiency test without my getting too intrusive. I already had the Escan tool hooked up, so it was just a matter of plugging in some criteria information to test the volumetric efficiency. I set the engine size to 5.4L, ambient air temp to 86 deg. F., and my elevation at sea level. I next power braked the engine to wide open throttle and graphed my readings within the program (Figure #3). The red graph represents the theoretical air flow as calculated by the program, while the yellow graph represents the actual volumetric flow. By looking at the yellow graph you can see that not only was the volumetric efficiency of this engine low, but the air volume was moving in and out of the MAF sensor. I have seen this erratic air flow many times before using this VE graph and it is usually a clear indication that the engine either has a clogged

exhaust or a valve timing problem where the intake valves are not properly closing as the piston is reaching top dead center of the compression stroke.

Figure 4: 1st step: verify which cylinders were creating the roughness in the engine. To stay in the drivers seat of diagnostics and still not being too intrusive, I decided to hook up my Ford IDS scan tool for some enhanced engine diagnostics that the tool claimed to perform. My first step was to verify which cylinders were creating the roughness in the engine. This I did by using the power-balance mode (Figure #4). In this mode I was able to see the PCM monitor the speed of each individual cylinders crank throw by means of the crank sensor. You can see that cylinders #5, 6, 7 and 8 were all below the zero line. Normally this pattern would run close to the zero line with slight deviations of plus or minus 5% and any large V spike below the zero line would indicate a misfire. Taking into consideration that cylinders #5, 6, 7 and 8 all share the same Bank #2 cylinder head, I was leaning toward a valve train problem with that bank.

Figure 5: A cranking compression chart captured when cranking the engine at wide open throttle. I moved on to the cranking compression test that I have found to be a solid Ford IDS procedure that has yet to let me down. Again, this uses the crank sensor to determine the speed of each cylinder as it monitors the slow-down of crankshaft speed as each piston comes up on the compression stoke. A weak cylinder doesnt slow the crankshaft as much as much as a stronger one does, thus showing up as a lowcompression cylinder. As I cranked the engine at wide open throttle to prevent the injectors from firing, I captured a cranking compression chart (Figure #5). You can see by the chart that cylinders #5, 6, 7 and 8 all had low compression as compared to Bank #1s cylinders. Its convenient that this can be done without ever having to pull the spark plugs and measure the compression of each cylinder with a mechanical gauge. This is technology at its best!

Figure 6: The camshaft timing parameters for each bank on the scan tool The validation process was all pointing toward a possible jumped timing chain on Bank #2. It was just unlikely that one head would have four bad cylinders with leaky valves. The common cause of low compression in four cylinders in the same head would most probably be a valve timing issue. I now wanted to do one more check to find out what the PCM was seeing when it set the variable valve timing codes, so I decided to look at the camshaft timing parameters for each bank on the scan tool (Figure #6). By looking at the data with the engine idling in its rough mode, I could plainly see VCTADV for Bank #1 was at 0 degrees at idle, but the VCTADV for Bank #2 was close to 60%, indicating that the cam sprocket on Bank #2 was out of correlation to the crankshaft. At this point I had gathered enough information to validate the removal of the front timing cover.

Figure 7: The tech had pulled the timing cover and lined up the crank so the keyway was up at the 12 oclock position.

Figure 8: Whiteout on both cam sprocket marks and I could see the driver cam sprocket timing mark was properly lined up with the center of the camshaft holddown cap. I went back to the shop the next day and the tech had pulled the timing cover and lined up the crank so the keyway was up at the 12 oclock position (Figure #7). I placed whiteout on both cam sprocket marks and I could see the driver cam sprocket timing mark was properly lined up with the center of the camshaft hold-down cap

(Figure #8). When looking at the Bank #2 cam sprocket (Figure #9), I could easily see that it was off by a few teeth. The timing chain had jumped, which caused the engine to run very poorly and the PCM to set timing position error faults. I felt good about my findings because I did not want the shop to go through all the work of ripping down the front of the engine just because it felt like a timing chain issue. I had to be sure on this one.

Figure 9: Bank #2 Sprocket It was a very interesting turn of events to be able to literally sit in the driver seat and do performance tests and mechanical diagnosis using only scan tools. I sat comfortably inside the vehicle and didnt even have to open the hood or get my hands dirty. I must say that as these engines and operating systems get more advanced our diagnostic jobs get physically easier, if more intellectually challenging. You just cant be too quick to jump the gun. Rather, set up a series of test procedures for yourself to better home in on the problem. This will lead to a successful diagnosis with very little time wasted.
1. mk4 r32 head/fit 2.8 engine block unsure if its been posted but , thought id add it list of conversion parts needed 1x mk4 r32 complete clyinder head full set of custom head bolts 1x r32 mk4 head gasket 1x r32 fuel rail 6x injectors if ur turboing 2.8/3.2 exhausts fit *same stud pattern either modifyed or mk4 r32 inlet manifold

dont need a mk4 32 rocker cover as the mk4 2.8 fits spot on long as its from a 2002 first the timing alginment on the bde 24v engine removal of the inlet manifold , you will need to remove the front slam pannel/bonett catch to locat the clyinder head inlet bolts ,(20mins job)remove bumper , start drives under and along the grill, theres 2 behind the bumper grills,and approx 6 on the inner arch (bumper inner edge) headlights, unclip wires and unbolt the 4 screws , along with headlight plastic covers and a coule of 10mm screws on the edge of the inner wings along with a small posi screw,and unplug the radiator fan wires and air temp switch from the bumper/inner pannel/theres also another 4 13mm nuts and a couple of small star bolts as well, then the front can be slowly pulled off, so ull enoegh room to remove the inlet allern key bolts, just check the rear heat sheild and maf tubes and wires are unpluged along with the coilpacks fit a 27mm socket on the crank and remove no1 plug (offside of the car),until u see a small cut out in the inner crank pulley faceing approx 5 oclock and make sure no1 plug is tdc next remove the rocker cover and youll see this

ull see at the rear of the camshafts there are 2 cut outs ,which only algin up with the clyinder head in one direction , so fit a piece off plate as seen in the pic above next ,remove the timing chain tensonirer bolt ,27mm nut on the rear of the chaining houseing and undeo the 5mm allern key bolts, and the 2 6m alern bolts under the plate once these are removed you will need to remove the complete thermostat houseing 3bolts in total again 5 mm allern key bolts, once this is removed , look where its been removed and you have to remove another 5mm allern key ,once removed , use a rubber hammer and tap of the timing chain case ,ull notice it has 2 locating pins and a small green o ring ,(make sure this dose fall out , once removed (along with the 2 vvt plugs) you see this make sure u algin the vvt pulleys correct , first check they are algined with , crank marks tdc/no1 clyinder tdc/then look at the vvt pulleys , ull see a faint arrow make sure its like this(this applys on both pulleys ,

also note do not get mixed up when re fiting these , as the inlet has more side to movement then the exahust pulley (good idea to mark them) once marked up

you need to remove the camshaft bolts make sure u fit a good fit spanner on the camshaft you will see the nut shape on the cam , and fit a 18mm socket on the other these undo the normal therd notice (THESE ARE DAM TIGHT BUGGARS) i used a bar on each to crack them off ) removed it will look like this

id advise u also remove the inner vvt (dont try undo the soliniods , undo the complete unit/ there are usely 4x 6mm star drives or 5mm allern key bolts ,(put a old rag covering the timing chain hole up as u dont wont to drop any into the timeing chain houseing, one removed slowly pull it off and ull see ends of the camshafts have thin oil rings on them ,this will enable u to remove the head better with the chain out out the way , (i will add these pics for better detail) next you need to undo the timing chain 6mm alern key bolts , that hold the timing chain runner , again be carfull , once bolts are removed ,pull the timing chain runner towards the radiator , next once the exhaust heat cover and exhast manifold bolts are undone , u can slowly make room without removeing them from the down pipes pic to be added just a rough pic

then undo the head bolts ,and ull se this remove all old 2.8 gaskets and clean off with either a standly knif blade and thinners next step grab , the r32 head gasket and remove the brass pins so u can split the gasket as u only need the to and bottom half not the centre like this

fit bottom gasket then spray

then fit spacer

then top gasket and clean bores off with thinners ,or tape them up then refit the r32 fit (2.8 shown in pic but fits the same)

and re torque the head bolt as show here

job done refit the rest as u removed them double check the timing marks and vvt pulleys ,,

Tomei-Powered Poncams
Drop-in Camshafts: Impressive Horsepower Gains
Text By Scott Tsuneishi Import Tuner, July, 2012

Tomei Powered's newest Poncam camshafts for the 4A-G (AE111 20-valve VVT) engine are regarded as one of the most economical, reliable, easy-to-install camshafts on the market today. What is a Poncam, you ask? The Poncam name is used by Tomei to describe camshafts, designed as a true "drop-in" application and engineered for use on the stock cylinder head, valvesprings, and ECU without compromising performance gains and improved response over the OEM camshaft for both street and track use.

There are a lot of things to look at when buying a cam, including duration (how long the valve stays open), lift (how far the valve opens), and overlap (how long the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time). We measured the OEM 20V factory cam with a 250mm duration intake/exhaust with 8.2mm lift (intake) and 7.6mm lift (exhaust). Data gathered from Tomei R&D on the 4A-G 20V factory camshafts revealed that at 6,000 rpm and higher, the stock cams showed severe intake air restrictions and a dramatic drop in power. Tomei claims their Poncams are good for about 15 hp with no other modifications needed. We plan on putting these cams to the test and prove once and for all if they deliver the power they claim.

The test mule for this project is an '85 Toyota Levin with 40,000 miles on a swapped 4A-G (AE111 20-valve VVT) engine from Japan. The transplanted engine is a fifth-generation 4A-GE model produced in 1996 and is known by Corolla aficionados as the "black top" due to the color of the valve cover. In factory form, this Cosworth-inspired 4A-GE, for which Yamaha designed the 20V cylinder head, is equipped with 45mm individual throttle bodies, 11.1:1 compression ratio, and delivers 165 hp and 119 lb-ft of torque. While the engine seems to run well we decided to perform routine maintenance prior to testing to extract maximum horsepower.

4A-G (AE111 20-Valve VVT) Engine Specs:

AE111 Individual Throttle Bodies T3 Velocity Stacks T3 ITB Splash Guard Jubiride Filter Screens SP-Tec Distributor Relocation Kit Ultra Silicone Plug Wires Techno Pro Spirits 4-1 Exhaust Manifold HKS Hi-Power Exhaust Samco Radiator Hoses Koyo Racing Radiator SamQ 20V Water Line Kit Earl's Stainless Steel Lines Earl's Oil Cooler Greddy Oil Filter Relocation

1. The Tomei Poncam has been designed and tested to be a good street grind camshaft with 264/256mm intake/exhaust duration and 9mm lift. Engineered as a true drop-in camshaft, you won't notice a big change in idle and your car should run pretty close to the way it did before the cams were installed, but with additional midrange and top end performance gains while maintaining usage of your OEM ECU. Aftermarket camshafts sporting aggressive durations are really made for use in the 5,500-plus rpm range, not typically what you would want out of a street car. Opening the intake valve during high acceleration from the camshaft requires sending as much mixture to the cylinder in the shortest time possible. However, if the cam profile is too aggressive/high, it can damage the valves, valve seats, and valvesprings. The Poncam's asymmetrical profile design given to the camshafts will allow the intake and exhaust valves to fulfill the target requirement with the wider duration and high lift without damaging the valvetrain. The factory ECU also has its limits with aggressive cams and isn't very good with any camshafts more aggressive in duration/lift past these Poncams not to mention shelling out additional cash for a stand-alone ECU/re-chipped unit.

2. Cam installation isn't very difficult on the 4AG-E and took three hours from start to finish, which also included stopping periodically to snap photos. Luckily, we had Shingo Yugami of Bluemoon Performance, a 4A-G specialist with 25 years of automotive repair and tuning experience, help with the install. Shingo was known as a master Toyota technician in Japan but has experience in all imports, ranging from old and new, domestics, classics, and euro. He currently opened his own shop while commissioned to build race engines and chassis construction for drift and time-attack vehicles in the United States. Check out Shingo-san's pimp-ass JDM hat!

3. Installing the Tomei Poncams is a straightforward process, since the 20V engine uses a direct cam lobe-on-bucket design. Each lobe sits on top of the valve assembly it actuates and is spaced by a shim under-bucket. There are no timing chains, VTEC solenoids, rocker arms, or secondary lobes. Just a matter of pulling the valve covers, loosening the timing belt, removing the cam gears and caps, and yanking the bumpsticks.

4. The SP-TEC 20-Valve 4AG Distributor Relocation kit is a must have for AE86 owners when attempting to help ease the 20V swap in a 20-valve 4AG motor from the AE101 and AE111. The custom kit allows plug-and-play without having to bang the firewall to clearance the cap and rotor or having to dish out additional funds for an aftermarket ECU.

5. Make sure your distributor rotor is pointed at the number one spark plug wire when your car is set to top dead center (TDC), marking it with a Sharpie. With the timing marks lined up, make sure that cylinder one is at TDC on the compression stroke. Then, as you lower the distributor back in, make sure that the rotor is pointing to the number one plug wire post on the distributor cap. Be sure to mark the distributor since you can't install it with the cap on.

6. The shim adjustment was almost made unnecessary according to the size of the Poncams' cam base circle. Because the 4AG has a cam lobe on either side of a cam-bearing journal, it makes it critical that adequate clearance is given among the lifter (bucket) and shim and the bearing journal surface.

7. As a precautionary measure, we decided to measure each shim using a micrometer to achieve proper shim thickness. This procedure is often time consuming and a costly process, but is an important procedure that cannot go ignored.

8-9. Be sure to inspect both buckets and cam journal bearing for any excessive wear.

10-11. Each Tomei camshaft is coated with manganese phosphate in order to protect from damage even when the camshaft is not lubricated. We slathered down both the camshafts and journals using Torco assembly lube prior to reassembly.

12-13. The Poncams have also been designed to eliminate the need for adjustable cam sprockets or unnecessary "dialing in" of the cams as the knock pin has been preset for optimal timing. We torque the cams' caps before using a feeler gauge to check for proper clearances on both cams.

14. Tomei Poncams also includes a degree card to properly dial in the camshafts.

15. Clean fuel injectors are a must for peak engine performance, fuel economy, and emissions. Dirty injectors lack the necessary means to deliver proper amounts of fuel and cannot maintain the correct spray pattern that is essential for efficient combustion. Injectors are exposed to extreme heat, which evaporates fuel from the injector surface at engine shutoff, leaving gasoline distillates to build up and bake on the nozzle, impeding the flow of fuel. Companies like RC Engineering specialize in inspecting, cleaning, and flowing injectors of all sizes for both street and race applications.

16. RC Engineering cleaned our OEM injectors using three different steps: an ultrasonic cleansing bath, in which the injectors are submerged and actuated in a concentrated solvent and subjected to ultrasonic vibration, followed by a high-pressure reverse-flow solvent stream, and ending with a mediablasting to the injectors' bodies and the replacement of all seals, Orings, and nozzle covers.

17. The '96; 4A-G (AE111 20-valve VVT) Nippon Denso 296cc/min saturated injector

Before Cleaning Injector # 1 2 3 4 cc/min 291.0 284.0 292.0 289.0 Pattern Good Good Good Good

After Cleaning Injector # 1 2 cc/min 296.0 295.0 Pattern Excellent Excellent

3 4

296.0 295.0

Excellent Excellent

18. Once installed, we used a timing gun to check the timing before driving around the block to check for any problems.

19-20. With the car running good, it was time to put it on the dyno for its baseline run. On its first pull the car made 122.2 whp and 100.2 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. After the baseline run we checked the timing, and it was set to 5 degrees BTDC. We changed it to the factory setting of 10 degrees and dyno'd the car again. With the timing in the correct spot the power climbed to 126.1 whp and 103.2 lb-ft of torque. We started with back-to-back dyno runs between the stock and Tomei cams, which gained a peak of 14 hp and 7 lb-ft of torque that increased power gains throughout the powerband. Over 15 lb-ft of top end torque was gained above 6,000 rpm to redline (where the stock cam fell off). If we weren't rev-limited, the Tomei cams would have made more power as the power curve was still climbing at rev cut. With ECU tuning, the engine should be even more responsive in the mid- and high-range power, but as a simple drop-in cam with no other modifications needed, these Tomei bumpsticks were impressive indeed!

Read more: http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_1207_tomei_powered_poncams/viewall.html#ixzz26oH pOXE9

replaced my timing belt..... now runs rough....my camshaft..cams

Customer Question
Ask your own question now > I just replaced my timing belt..... now runs rough.. So I thought maybe my camshaft/s may be off. I re checked everything and even started from square one and took the belt back off and made sure the cams were straight up and marks were lined up correctly. Then I used a method I read to get TDC I put a long 1/4 extention into one one cylinder turned crank until the extension was at very top. ( I did this because I couldn't see a mark on the crank sprocket for lining up tdc. I believe the timing is off somehow. any help would be great, I did turn the camshafts when the belt was off but put back of course just wondering if that may have done something. getting code p0016 did show poo17 before i tried resetting timing Submitted: 90 days and 7 hours ago. Category: Volvo Status: CLOSED

Optional Information
Country: United States Make: Volvo Model: S40 T5 Engine: 5 cylinder Already Tried: Tried to line camshaft and crank all up maybe I'm confused on where the timing marks are at on the crankshaft. Are there any mark on the vibration damper or is it only on the sprocket tooth
Posted by Kavey 90 days and 6 hours ago.

Expert's Answer

Lemay-Auto-Care : I'm gonna switch you over to Question & Answer format. I will still be here though. Chat sometimes doesnt show replys for some reason. Its a new system and still a bit buggy. One second and we will get started. Posted by Kavey 90 days and 6 hours ago.

Response From Expert

Our chat has ended, but you can still continue to ask me questions here until you are satisfied with your answer. Come back to this page to view our conversation and any other new information. What happens now? If you havent already done so, please rate your answer above. Or, you can reply to me using the box below. Posted by Kavey 90 days and 6 hours ago.

Response From Expert

I am going to do a little research and I will have you some information and answers. Thank you for your patience. Posted by Kavey 90 days and 6 hours ago.

Response From Expert

What year is the car?

Posted by Kavey 90 days and 3 hours ago.

Response From Expert

I saw that you have a high urgency on this question so I tried to wait around on you to get me the information I need and I will keep as close of an eye on it as I can. Without knowing the year I can only provide generic information but I will do the best I can and I will revise anything needed once you provide me with the year. I am about to "clock out" for the night but I will be back early in the AM so please be patient with me. I will make it a priority to check on this first thing. It sounds as though you are not in time. I don't think moving the cam would cause much problem unless you spun it around all the way and forced it. The extension trick is OK for old cars but yours need to be EXACT. If it was me I would pull the belt off one more time and make sure you got the belt installed right and then move on. Another thing I don't see mention is a new tensioner. If you reused the old one and its worn out that could cause it to be slightly out of time. Posted by Kavey 90 days and 3 hours ago.

Expert's Answer
Gonna give you instructions just in case something was missed on the first go around. These are for an 07 but should probably apply to yours as well. Installing tension pulley and idler pulley

Caution! The tension pulley and idler pulley must always be replaced when replacing the timing belt. Install: - a new tension pulley with the center screw. Screw in the center screw by hand. Ensure that the tensioner fork is centered over the cylinder block's rib. Make sure that the Allen head hole on the eccentric is in position 10 o'clock. - new idler pulley. Tighten the screws.

Installing the crankshaft's timing belt pulley

Note! The timing belt pulley can only be installed in one position in case of splines on the crankshaft journal, see illustration. Carefully tap in the timing belt pulley with a plastic mallet. Installing the timing belt Note: For additional information regarding Variable Valve Timing see: Variable Valve Timing Actuator, Adjustments See: Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Adjustments

Install the new belt in the following order: - the crankshaft - the idler pulley - camshaft pulley - the water pump - belt tensioner.

Pull out the pin. Check that the tensioner tensions the belt, Tighten the centre screws that hold the VVT-units on both camshafts. Tighten according to: XXXXX XXXXX See: Engine > Mechanical > Tightening Torque Install the plugs for the VVT-units. Tighten according to: XXXXX XXXXX See: Engine > Mechanical > Tightening Torque. Removal Removing the adjustment tools

Remove: - (NNN) NNN-NNNNCAMSHAFT ADJUSTMENT TOOL See: Vehicle > Electrical / Mechanical Repair >(NNN) NNN-NNNNCamshaft Adjustment Tool from the rear edge of the camshafts - (NNN) NNN-NNNNADJUSTMENT TOOL See: Vehicle > Electrical / Mechanical Repair >(NNN) NNN-NNNNAdjustment Tool. Install the plug with a new seal washer. Tighten, see Specifications. See: Engine > Mechanical > Tightening Torque. Check Checking the markings and belt tension

Press on the timing belt to check that the indicator on the belt tensioner moves easily. Position the upper timing cover. Turn the crankshaft 2 rotations and check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys correspond. Check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked position. Adjust as needed. Remove the upper timing cover. Installation Installing rotor

Install the rotor and screw them on the camshafts' trailing edge. Installing the cover

Install the covers in the trailing edge of the camshaft. Use a plastic hammer and tap in the covers until they are flush with the camshaft cover and cylinder head. Posted by Kavey 90 days and 2 hours ago.

Expert's Answer

This may help on the timing marks.

If you set those right and it still runs poor I would suggest a compression and leakdown test to see if you did end up bending a valve when you turned the cams. My guess is that the timing is just slightly off though judging by the code switching from fast to slow when you tried again. If you cant find those notches on your crank gear they may just be covered in grease. They SHOULD be there. If you would like any additional information or have more questions please reply to this question! I cannot help you if you don't ask. Please remember to only rate my answer when you are 100% satisfied. IF you feel the need to click either "Helped a little" or "I expected more", please stop and reply to me via the REPLY or CONTINUE CONVERSATION button with the issue you have. I will be happy to continue further and do everything I can to provide you with the service you seek.

Thank you Posted by Kavey 90 days and 2 hours ago.

Response From Expert

If you line up the marks on the cams it may make it easier to find the notches on the crank gear.. they should be pretty close to the top at that point. 89 days and 23 hours ago.

Customer Reply
Oak just read over some of your info...and its looking pretty promising. I feel we are on the same page on the timing being off just a little. I don;t believe i bent the valves, nothing was forced when turning the cams I knew it could hurt them so I did take my time and was easy on them. So What I'm going to do tonight when I get off work is get and inspection camera to make sure if the mark I think I'm seeing on the sprocket for the timing is correct. I have a 2006 and I did the installationwithout removing the vibration damper wich made seeing the mark very...very hard. I used a little mirror and a flashlight. But I'm going to take it off and re try all the steps and I'll get back to you. Thank you for your info. 89 days and 23 hours ago.

Customer Reply
Oh and I put in a new water pump tensioner and roller So it would all be new Posted by Kavey 89 days and 18 hours ago.

Response From Expert

OK I made you a real picture instead of these drawn out ones. That may make it easier to see what you are looking for. And I would try to line it up before you take it off so you can see if its off. If it looks right post a picture and let me see before you mess with it. Just spray a bunch of brake clean all over the gear when you got the timing marks right on the cams and the marks should become visible.

89 days and 10 hours ago.

About a month after I got my S15, the engine started developing a noise that is known as "VTC Rattle". It's a common problem with the S14/S15 SR20DET, the VTC Cam Gear wears out and produces an annoying rattle noise that sounds like a diesel truck. It usually happens on a cold start but progressively get's worse and happens more often even when engine is warmed up. It all has to do with engine oil pressure, as the noise goes away when you step on the throttle. Read more after the break... VTC is Nissan's version of variable cam gear timing, the intake cam gear is advanced a full 21 degrees depending on engine RPM. What this does is increase power and torque at lower RPMs, much nicer to drive. This is not to be confused with VVL which is Nissan's version of Honda's VTEC or Toyota's VVT-i, VVL/VTEC/VVT-i work on changing the lift of valves by changing the cam shaft lobe profiles. The page below is taken from the S15 Service Manual, it explains the VTC function and how it operates, just oil pressure and a solenoid.

There are two main things that causes the rattle, the oil solenoid could be blocked/dirty so you just need to clean that out with some carby cleaner. You can then check if the solenoid is functional by connecting 12V power to it, you should see the pin/piston firing in and out. But

the most common problem is just the cam gear wearing out, only way to fix this is to replace it. While replacing the VTC cam gear, I decided to install Rocker Arm Stoppers too.

Removing rocker cover.

Removing the cam gear bolt and cam gear.

New VTC cam gear and Rocker Arm Stoppers in, compressing the chain tensioner.

When installing Rocker Arm Stoppers in an S15/S14 engine, you need to slightly trim the internals of the rocker cover. I used an angle grinder and then a Dremel to clean it up. Also had to give it a good clean because of all the fine pieces of aluminium, was a pain in the ass.

All cleaned up.

First released in the front wheel drive 1993 Allant, GM's Northstar 4.6-litre all-alloy DOHC V8 has just undergone a major upgrade - and is now to be fitted to rear-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles. From its infinitely variable cam timing of the intake and exhaust cams, plastic intake manifold, electronic throttle and polymer-coated piston skirts, this is one tricky engine. With 235kW at a free-spinning 6400 rpm (but still with 420Nm at 4400 rpm) it's a great example of the technology of a modern V8.

The engine is to be made available in the 2004-model four-wheel drive Cadillac SRX - a car said to bridge the gap between luxury sedans and full-size SUVs, and also in the pictured XLR roadster, where it will propel the car to 60mph (97 km/h) in "under" 6 seconds, and across the standing quarter in 14.7 seconds. To GM's credit, the company has released very detailed technical information and pics of what's under the skin of this superb V8. So hang on for a quick tour through a range of state-of-the-art engine technologies!

Cylinder Block

The upper portion of the block is a high-pressure die-cast aluminium alloy component, with cast-in, flanged iron cylinder liners; their outer diameter is machined for consistency.

The lower crankcase is constructed of squeeze cast aluminium alloy. Four bolts per bulkhead are used to fasten the two sections for strength and rigidity. Dowels provide alignment for the two halves. Finite element analysis identified the rear face between the engine and transmission and the valley of the block as optimum locations for application of new stiffening ribbing.

Forged Steel Crankshaft and Bearings

The crankshaft is constructed of micro-alloyed forged steel and has rolled journal fillets for greater fatigue strength. The crankshaft is fully cheeked and concentrically topped to minimize the external dimensions of the engine, reducing its size and mass, and is internally balanced. A 58-tooth reluctor wheel is machined integrally to the crankshaft to provide accurate positional information to the engine control system. The rod and main bearings are constructed of bi-metallic Al-Sn alloys to minimize wear and provide long-life clearance control. The 4mm-thick, steel-back bearings, in conjunction with the aluminium crank bore, minimize expansion of the bore and crankshaft at high temperatures to maintain proper clearance throughout the engine operating temperature range.

New Torsional Dampers / Flywheels / Flexplate

Two new dual-belt torsional dampers are also used to drive the two alternate configurations (FWD and RWD) of vehicle accessory drives. Each damper has one pulley integral to the hub and the other driven through the bonded elastomer and

inertia ring. Two new flywheels were also designed for RWD applications. To accommodate the unique torque tube driveline of the XRL, a specifically engineered dual flexplate with an inertia ring (pictured) is used to reduce crankshaft oscillations at low engine speeds.

Pistons / Connecting Rods

Northstar pistons are cast using a hyper-eutectic aluminium alloy, with high silicon content for improved durability. They feature:

Top land height of 4.5mm Valve clearance pockets to accommodate the variable valve timing Polymer coated skirts, enabling tighter fits without scuffing An increased-diameter 23 mm piston pin increases rigidity

FEM (finite element modelling) was used to model the piston motion and generate a skirt profile for minimal NVH over the whole operating range. Extensive testing was also performed to optimize the ring geometry, tension and end gaps to minimize blow-by and oil consumption.

The connecting rod is a forged powder metal component. The cap is impact-cracked, and a combination of the fracture surface and rolled pilot threads on the bolts ensure precise alignment during assembly. The GM-developed process ensures greater precision than conventional machining of the upper and lower halves of the rods. A bronze bushing is pressed into the small end to support the floating pin.

Cylinder Heads

The combustion chambers were redesigned to provide a higher 10.5:1 compression ratio, while maintaining the same valve sizes and bore as the FWD version of the engine. Extensive analysis and experimental development were used to develop the inlet and exhaust ports. Changes to enhance airflow to compliment the increased power capability provided by the four-cam VVT system include:

Special machining operations around the exhaust valve seats, used to un-shroud the exhaust valves to improve flow.

Both inlet and exhaust ports have generated radius machining to improve the flow transition from the cast port to the machined throat and to reduce variation in the flow and mixture motion from part to part. These machining operations approximate a hand "ported" head in production.

The exhaust ports have a new oval outlet shape for compatibility with the new specific RWD exhaust manifolds. New larger 29-mm forged exhaust valves provide improved breathing. Inconel heads are employed for high temperature capability. The valve guides and valve seats are manufactured from ferrous powder metal. The exhaust valve seat is copper infiltrated for high heat transfer and lubricity. The RWD engine continues to use a powder metal process for the aluminium cam bearing caps. The bottom of all the bearing caps, except those for the thrust bearings, features a patented new "T" slot. It directs a stream of oil from a supply groove, cast into the lower inlet bearings in the cylinder head, onto the cam and roller finger follower to provide the valve train with a precise amount of pressurized oil. The Tslots are formed with the powder metal process for optimum consistency.

Intake Manifold

The manifold is moulded from glass-filled PA66. The manifold has a central feed to the plenum to improve induction noise by providing for a nearly equal-length flow path to the runner entrance for each cylinder.

Exhaust Manifolds / Heat Shields

Exhaust manifolds for both FWD and 4WD vehicles are cast from high silicon/molybdenum ferritic nodular iron. The exhaust manifold heat shields are made from a triple layer material for improved noise reduction compared to a single layer heat shield. A full engine cover also provides noise reduction in addition to providing for a finished engine compartment appearance.

Lubrication

The new RWD Northstar provides sufficient high-pressure oil supply for stable, rapid VVT response, even at low engine speeds via a new oil pump.

The output of the pump has been increased and a new supply circuit to the cam phasers developed.

An all-new oil pan, windage tray and baffle system was developed to accommodate the high speed and dynamic lateral performance (cornering, braking and acceleration) provided by the engine.

The high-pressure oil supply for the VVT system is supplied from a dedicated passage in the lower crankcase fed directly from the filter outlet. The oil then enters a VVT oil supply tube mounted on the front face of the block in the chain case area. This tube incorporates a secondary in-line oil filter, with a large surface area, for minimum impact on oil flow. The VVT oil supply tube delivers the oil to upper crankcase, where it is routed to the cylinder heads, into the camshafts, and finally to the cam phasers. The unique oil supply routing with the VVT oil supply tube, plus the integral control valve phasers, enable the system to have the high pressure VVT oil supply entirely routed internal to the engine, precluding the potential for a high-pressure leak. This arrangement also permits the filter to have more effective surface area.

Variable Valve Timing

Distinguishing features of VVT system include four vane-type phasers, with integral control valves and electromagnets.

Four vane-type phasers provide faster response time and a more compact, lightweight design than conventional helical spline phasers.

Electromagnets are used to actuate the control valves. In combination with a unique, high-pressure oil supply circuit, they eliminate the high-pressure seal(s) required by solenoid valve-controlled VVT systems, greatly reducing the potential for oil leaks.

Cam phasing is continuously variable within a range of 40 degrees for the inlet valve timing and 50 degrees for exhaust valve timing. This eliminates the need for an external air pump or complex EGR system (due to the availability of internal EGR).

The cam phasers are:

Electronically controlled and hydraulically actuated; the intake and exhaust valves operate independently of one another. Infinitely variable timing within the range of control. This precision provides improved breathing and cleaner, more complete combustion. This improves the compromise between emissions and performance, from idle to high speed, and between horsepower and torque.

The phasers each consist of a housing with an integral cam drive sprocket and cam sensor target wheel. Inside the housing is a four-lobed vane with oil pressure chambers on both sides of each lobe. The vane is fastened to the front of the camshaft with a bolt and controlled by an integral, internal control valve. The Powertrain Control Module commands an electromagnet to actuate the valve inside the phaser. Control valve movement causes

pressurized oil to flow to the chambers on alternate sides of the vane lobes, advancing or retarding the cam. The electromagnets are mounted to the VVT housings bolted to the front of the cylinder heads.

Because the control valve is internal to the phaser, only one pressure oil feed is required to both advance and retard the camshaft. A locking pin holds the vanes in their "parked" position during engine start-up to ensure quiet starts. The pin is automatically disengaged when oil pressure reaches a level to assure quiet operation. The camshaft position sensors are mounted in the VVT housing, one per camshaft. There are four camshaft position sensors, one for each camshaft, located in the VVT housings, which determine the movement and position of the cam target wheels located on each of the four phasers. The outputs from the cam position sensors to the ECM are used to determine camshaft positions for comparison to commanded positions. This information enables rationality checks for crankshaft and camshaft position fault diagnostics, and provides backup engine position data for limp-home operation in the case of crankshaft position sensor failure.

Cam Drive and Valve Train

A chain cam drive system has been carried over from the previous FWD engine. The flame-hardened nodular iron camshafts employ new profiles developed for VVT applications to optimize engine performance throughout the operating range. The profiles employ opening and closing ramps, optimized for quiet operation.

Fuel Rail / Injectors

The fuel system in the new Northstar 4.6 litre incorporates a three-piece fuel rail mounted in the intake manifold runners with eight multi-point injectors that inject fuel into the intake air streams at the end of the intake manifold runners on command from the ECM. The three-piece fuel rail design allows for easier assembly of the injectors to the rail. The injectors are a dual cone and dual angle type. The fuel rail is a returnless design that simplifies overall fuel system design and reduces the risk of evaporative emissions. The two rail bank halves and crossover tube are made of dichromate coated carbon steel with o-ring seals between the components. Fuel peak-to-peak pressure pulses are minimized with a damper mounted on one of the rail halves and a 25cc accumulator brazed into the rail inlet tube. Fuel pressure is regulated by the vehicle fuel system at 400 kPa.

Electronic Throttle Control

Electronic "drive-by-wire" throttle control (ETC) receives inputs for driver demands for power via pedal position sensors, and engine control sensors, cruise control commands, traction control events, and transmission shift energy commands via the

ECM. There is no mechanical link between the accelerator pedal and the throttle. The ECM appropriately commands the throttle opening to regulate intake air, providing seamless engine control for the variety of vehicle features at the driver's disposal. ETC helps achieve maximum fuel efficiency with high output while ensuring a clean burn. The ETC provides this control without the use of separate modules, such as cruise control, which increases reliability and reduces system complexity. ETC consists of an accelerator pedal control module containing sensors that relay driver acceleration-intent information to the powertrain control module (PCM - the combination transmission and engine management system) while also supplying force feedback (pedal feel) to the driver.

The PCM then determines and sets the optimal position for the throttle body air valve with an electric motor. The throttle is an 80mm diameter, straight bore type that allows flexible control and minimizes resistance to air flow at wide open throttle conditions. It is mounted on the coolant water crossover, which protects the throttle body from icing. The assembly incorporates the throttle actuator, throttle plate, and throttle position sensor in a common housing.

Catalytic Converters

There are two close-coupled catalytic converters - one for each bank - mounted directly to the cast iron exhaust manifolds so heat is transferred quickly to the precious metal catalysts for early light-off, which is important since most emissions occur within the first 20 seconds of operation and the catalysts must be at the proper temperature to be effective. This arrangement, along with the use of variable valve timing, allows suitable light-off without the use of secondary air injection into the exhaust, minimizing cost, complexity and reliability issues. The catalytic converters have stainless steel housings, which are welded to the exhaust manifolds as close to the exhaust ports as possible. Steel tube outlets connecting to the vehicle exhaust system are welded to the outlet of each converter. Two heated wide range air-fuel (WRAF) sensors are located upstream of the catalytic converters (one per bank) to accurately sense changes in the O2 concentration in the engine out exhaust, enabling the ECM to properly control fuel delivery during any operating mode. Post converter heated [presumably narrow range] O2 sensors are located behind each of the converters to diagnose converter function.

Starter Motor

The starter is an ECM-drone starter motor, engaging the engine as soon is it receives an electronic command from the driver via the ECM. There are no mechanical switches. The ECM also protects the engine by shutting down the ignition system if the engine doesn't start within 14 seconds - normally it starts instantly. This is based on the assumption that there may be a major mechanical problem, which would be aggravated if the engine were to fire. The starter is located in the rear block valley. This location has proven to be exceptionally advantageous for starter durability since the starter is out of the direct path of corrosive and contaminant-laden road spray as well as away from hot exhaust manifolds, which is typical for a conventional side-mounted starter.

Engine Control Module

The ECM is a 16-bit, 24 MHz microprocessor, high memory control unit designed to integrate the engine's infinitely variable valve timing (VVT) for both intake and exhaust valve trains, Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), and closed coupled catalysts for meeting emission requirements without secondary emission control systems. The controller is also designed for a GM LAN communication protocol speed of 500 kbit/second and has a 185-pin connection system for enhanced input/output capability. (Currently, 120-pin systems are more the norm.) GM's LAN communication protocol is an adaptation of the industry-wide CAN-Bus (control area network).

Other ECM functions include:

Individual cylinder knock control and fuel control - it controls fuel mixture richness/leanness at each cylinder to keep it at the optimal stoichiometric ratio, rather than averaging all 8 cylinders or by cylinder bank, the typical approaches.

Full Onboard Diagnostic (OBD) II capability without a secondary air pump (the Northstar 4.6-litre engine does not need a secondary pump for emission control).

Linear lambda control, wide ranging air/fuel sensing for more precise control to meet emission requirements - typically an analog oxygen sensor is used, which is slower and less exacting.

Engine protection functions - including "camel mode," which allows the engine to continue running for another 50 miles before shutting down should it lose all coolant by only operating four cylinders at a time so it runs cooler. The ECM will also shut down the ignition system if the car doesn't start within 14 seconds, assuming a possible major mechanical problem.

Engine off natural vacuum (EONV) diagnostics for evaporative emission leak detection. Comprehensive exhaust gas temperature model - exhaust gas temperature is used as a basis for adjusting fuel control: as the temperature increases the fuel control is adjusted accordingly to protect the converter from melting.

The ECM was co-developed by Siemens VDO Automotive and GM Powertrain.

Ignition System

The ignition utilizes a coil-on-plug arrangement, which maximizes spark energy, eliminates spark plug wires and improves electromagnetic compatibility performance. The ECM precisely commands ignition spark event and timing. Four pencil coils are assembled to a bracket for modular assembly, one module for each bank. During engine assembly, the coil modules are assembled to the top of the cam covers so that

the coils fit into tunnels in the cam covers and cylinder heads, and connect directly to the spark plugs.

Electronic Spark Control / Knock Sensor

Electronic spark control retards ignition timing should spark knock occur, re-adjusting engine ignition timing until the knock is gone. Knock sensing is accomplished via the use of two, flat response sensors mounted in the valley of the engine block just below the deck face and mid position fore and aft to allow sensitive and reliable detection of spark knock in all of the cylinders. The output to the ECM is sensitive enough to allow the ECM to control spark timing to individual cylinders when required.

Mass Airflow Sensor

The mass airflow (MAF) sensor is an 87 mm diameter hot-film anemometer device with a large measurement range and high accuracy for precise control of air/fuel delivery. The intake temperature measurement and resistor arrangement within the MAF allows automatic compensation for operating temperature and provides good dynamic response. Engine airflow passing by temperature dependent film resistors modulates current through the MAF sensor element. The sensor is located between the air cleaner and the ETC.

Specifications - 2004 Northstar RWD/AWD 4.6L V8 (LH2)

Configuration: Installation:

4.6L V8 Longitudinal RWD/AWD

Bore C/L spacing: 102mm Displacement: Bore x Stroke: Valve train: 4565cc 93 mm bore x 84 mm stroke DOHC 4 valves-per-cylinder four-cam continuously variable valve timing w/roller finger followers Connecting Rod Length: Compression Ratio: Firing Order: Fuel System: Recommended Fuel: Peak HP: Peak Torque: Mass-Engine as shipped: Engine Speed Idle: WOT Upshift: Cylinder Block Material: Upper block: Lower crank case: Squeeze cast aluminium Liners: Cylinder Head Cast iron Die cast aluminium 6,450 RPM 650 RPM 315 HP / 235 kW @ 6400 RPM 310 lb-ft / 420 Nm @ 4,400 RPM 189.2 kg/416.3 lb 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8 Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection Unleaded Premium recommended 10.5:1 151 mm

Material: Head Gasket: Crankshaft Material: Crankshaft Main Journal Diam: Crankshaft Pin Journal Diam: Connecting Rods Material: Piston / Pin Material: Piston Pin: Lube System Oil Pump: Engine Oil/Sump Capacity: Valvetrain Cam Timing/Phasing Authority: Inlet:

319 alloy aluminium, semi-permanent mould Flexible graphite w/steel core

Forged steel 64.4mm

54mm

Forged powder metal

Hyper-Eutectic aluminium alloy Full floating

Gerotor type, 8 inner and 9 outer lobes 8 qts 5W30 Mobil 1 w/dry filter

133 degrees ATDC initial timing 40 crankshaft degrees advance authority

Exhaust: Intake Valve Diameter: Exhaust Valve Diameter:

177 degrees BTDC initial timing 50 crankshaft degrees retard authority 36 mm diameter head

29 mm diameter head

Accessory Drive Drive Belts: Cooling System Thermostat: Intake Manifold Material: Throttle Size/Type: Fuel System Fuel Injectors: Delivery System: Ignition System Ignition Coils: Spark Plugs: Powertrain Control Module: Coil-on-plug Dual platinum electrodes Siemens Underhood mounted; die cast aluminium housing Infineon SAK-C167CS-LM BA dual microprocessor Main processor speed - 24 MHz; 3Kbyte internal RAM, 256Kbyte external RAM, 512 Kbyte flash memory. Mass: Sensors: 950g 87mm MAF (mass air flow), active crankshaft position sensor (ACPS) (differential Hall IC), dual linear knock sensors, 4 (Hall IC), camshaft position sensors, dual pre catalyst linear oxygen sensors, dual heated post catalyst oxygen sensors, manifold absolute, pressure (MAP) sensor, oil level sensor. Dual spray Returnless rail 80 mm diameter throttle bore, electronic control Glass filled PA 66 Inlet side type Dual serpentine belt, one double sided

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ow to Line Up a Timing Belt Correctly

A lot of people seem to have trouble with this, and I've been meaning to do a quick writeup for a while so here we are...

I've assumed that you have removed your timing belt with cylinder 1 at TDC compression stroke with the dot on the crank sprocket matching the notch on the oil pump. If you haven't then you should read all the way through the walkthroughs and workshop manual before you pull things apart Here we are with your motor with the timing belt off. You can see I have fancy looking adjustable cam sprockets, but that makes no difference they are all marked the same. You can see the little notches on the sprockets and dots rear timing belt cover. You have to line the sprockets up with these little dots. THESE ARE APPROXIMATES ONLY!! Better piccies below.

On the drivers side bank the sprockets don't really like to sit lined up with the dots. You can rotate them by hand but they have a habit of jumping and skinning knuckles pretty bad. I use a old timing belt like this to rotate the sprockets. If you have super fancy intake sprockets like me you can use a Allen key socket to rotate them. My valve springs are so strong that I couldn't rotate the cam with the belt by hand

This shows the notches and dots (highlighted in red). Due to my excellent photography they look like they don't line up, but they do

Crank sprocket and notch on the oil pump. Before you take your timing belt off you should line this one up.

Ensure that your tensioner is compressed using the little screw. Be very careful with this. One certain QLD member has managed to break two of these... Half a turn and leave it for 10 to 20 sec then continue until it is shut. Also loosen off the bolts holding the tensions to the block.

Now put your timing belt on. I start from the crank and work around anti clockwise. Make sure the direction on the belt is correct. Line up the marks on the belt to the marks on the SPROCKETS. Ignore the marks on the timing belt covers and oil pump. Here you can see the marks on the belt lining up with the sprockets. I've got a fancy blue timing belt, but they are all pretty much the same. You should count the number of teeth between marks to make sure it's all sweet. See page EM-18 of the factory service manual. It can sometimes seem like the timing belt is too short and it's difficult to get on. Rotate the crank a bit with breaker bar to give a little bit more slack or tighten the belt depending on what you need. You might need to tweak the drivers side sprockets, the pass side ones you can move easily by hand a few degrees.

Rotate the crank clockwise to loosen off the tensioner side of the belt. Now rotate the body of the tensions and do up all the bolts nice and firm. Remove the little bolt and completely remove it.

Rotate the crank a few times and the tensioner should now looks like this. It should be about 3-5mm of the tensioner rod sticking out. If too much or not enough, loosen the tensioner body and adjust.

Then you're done!

1. sure as hell hope so.. it's the same one I started with my stock AWP one with the CAT cams? do I need something than

quick pic of the bay (better ones later):

Here's the timing mark on the crank:

take my word, but this lines up with the mark on the valve cover 100%. Because the timing pulley matches up so well with the valve cover, I'm assuming that the exhaust cam is in the right spot.. and the intake cam is off.

Here's some good pictures of the lineup:

I swapped in a non VVT tensioner and the arc on the chain looks a little high.. I noticed the marks on the intake cam looking off, but since the blue mark on the sproket lined up okay, I figured I was good... Then I looked at the bently.. and I'm thinking I need to line the blue dot and link 16 up together on the intake cam <3.

also what makes me think I need to rotate the intake cam one tooth towards the front of the car is this:

Note the ground away sections "108*" on the exhaust, and "110*" on the intake. The 108 is pretty much level with the engine (with a slight tilt towards the engine centerline) and the 110 is tilted by ~10-15* towards the center of the engine.. I'd suspect that the 110 is supposed to be "flat" like the 108, and to do so means rotating one tooth towards the front of the car. a stock exhaust cam is also in that picture, but it's hard to correlate in 2D.. if I go by the lobes (which I recall we're not supposed to do with aftermarket cams ) the CATs need to rotate a tooth forward again.. so.. unless I'm being really really dumb (bound to happen intake cam one tooth.. stupid bolts and having to bleed the lifters :/ ) I'm going to adjust the

Well my MS6 died so i thought i would share the repairing of a timing chain on a VVT first i cleaned the engine bay

Then i started to take it apart. Is that oil in the intercooler.... Ah stupid PCV valve...

that carbon is from the freash air inlet to the crankcase... shouldn't the air be going in not out?...

Day two,

EGR tube

EGR tube Plus something...

Chain left scars

Overall it was nice and clean in there

Update,

Little wear for 103k on the motor.

what died next to the new one

that isn't shipped as a slot

where they heat treated the part so that it lasts more then 100k

ford doesn't believe in keyways, no instead for those that haven't seen it let me introduce the "friction washer".... Also nothing is a press fit.

stretched chain

primer

krinkle paint

note: This is not a GTO cam set up

This whole DoD assembly is quite complex and functions like a clutch with push button settings(part of the whole fuel management system). The center screw that screws into the Cam and through the spring clutch sprocket assembly is quite tricky. (Luis recommended experience when cam swapping) Here's a pic of the screw
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Good to hear of your DoD delete mod.

GoatRun2012 View Public Profile Find More Posts by GoatRun2012 05-16-2012, 02:25 AM #46 Quote: Originally Posted by HOGtos... Probably not a bad move. I just got back from Luis' shop tonight and he's got a G8 engine rebuild going on right now. He gave me a crash-course on this freaky (yet very cool when functional) Cam set-up and DoD mechanism.

The Yeti
Done modding... For Now...

*note: This is not a GTO cam set up

This whole DoD assembly is quite complex and functions like a clutch with push button settings(part of the whole fuel management system). The center screw that screws into the Cam and through the spring clutch sprocket assembly is quite tricky. (Luis recommended experience when cam swapping) Here's a pic of the screw
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Bay Area Cali Posts: 847

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Good to hear of your DoD delete mod.

Funny, I just spoke with Luis on the phone about my install and he told me I you were just there. Luis has a wealth of knowledge on all LS motors it seems... Those look like DOD lifters. Eaton on the left, and Delphi lifter on the right. The problem with DOD in the L76 were that the DOD lifters were not very strong. The roller would basically deform and then not work correctly, or even worse start to chew up the cam, leaving metal bits swimming throughout your engine. The new delphi lifters are capable of handling much more lift than the original eatons, are built much better, and They also handle oiling on start up much better. I have a custom speced VVT dod cam that will play quite nicely with my brand new revised DOD lifters. There is one G8 owner out there in the 10's running fully functioning DOD setup.
Last edited by The Yeti; 05-16-2012 at 02:29 AM.

The Yeti

View Public Profile Find More Posts by The Yeti 05-16-2012, 03:59 AM #47 Originally Posted by The Yeti... Funny, I just spoke with Luis on the phone about my install and he told me I you were just there. Luis has a wealth of knowledge on all LS motors it seems... Quote: Those look like DOD lifters. Eaton on the left, and Delphi lifter on the right. The problem with DOD in the L76 were that the DOD lifters were not very strong. The roller would basically deform and then not work correctly, or even worse start to chew up the cam, leaving metal bits swimming throughout your engine. The new delphi lifters are capable of handling much more lift than the original eatons, are built much better, and They also handle oiling on start up much better. I have a custom speced VVT dod cam that will play quite nicely with my brand new revised DOD lifters. There is one G8 owner out there in the 10's running fully functioning DOD setup.

GoatRun2012
Did someone say, "Vegas"

2005 GTO Owner Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Central Valley Posts: 6,190

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Fantastic, Ike. You certainly have done your homework. Didn't know about the brand issue; that's good stuff! More than anything else, I have a new respect for the L76's. They're a little more tricky than our cars in regards to the cams. It was an interesting visual.

First Start Woes: Cams? 08-21-2009 12:11 PM #1

after 7ish months of f-ing around with a new turbo, rods, and built head, I gave her a crank this morning. the thing started relatively quickly, but was bucking a little bit.. and then came the error codes: 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation P1340 - 35-00 - 16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal P0341 - 35-00 - I have the new version of the CAT cams (the ones that needed machining), and I lined up the exhaust cam perfectly with the crank.. and then counted the 16 rollers to the intake cam timing mark, but I'm not convinced about that 16 roller bs..

I'm gonna rip into the thing and post pictures, but I wanted to prime you guys for help in a bit (bejan / narbie.. you guys looked to have fun with these cams recently ) more shortly.. stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/ Reply With Quote

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Join Date Sep 13th, 2005 Location San Mateo Ca Posts 1,132 Vehicles 04/VW/Jetta GLI 1.8T Re: First Start Woes: Cams? (transient_analysis) 08-21-2009 01:02 PM #2

Good luck man let me know how it goes. We had a hell of a time doing it on my car. I think we eventually got it right but my ecu was bad when the cams were installed so i think that

messed up everything. So for now i have stock cams until I get the new version of the cat cams. 04 GLI 1.8T GT3076R EuroDyne 630CC File (Maestro 7 Suite) New AEB Head In The Works. IE Cams, Full Ferrea ValveTrain 2013- 2.0 Stroker, Bigger Turbo Reply With Quote

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Join Date Apr 18th, 2002 Location California Posts 9,182 Vehicles Evo IX MR: 1991 VW GTi 1.8T 20V: Mercedes Benz with 16 Spark Plugs

FV-QR 08-21-2009 01:15 PM #3

lol yup had lots of fun! take a picture of the cam bolts and how they line up etc. also the cam lobes to the caps

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Join Date Sep 15th, 2005 Location Silver Spring, MD Posts 9,780 Vehicles 2002 VW JETTA

Re: First Start Woes: Cams? (jettaman18t) 08-21-2009 01:26 PM #4

Are you using the correct Cam Position Sensor?

MY HOOPTIE PAGPARTSTURBO <- THE BEST PARTS SOLD HERE dotuning <- doTuning Reply With Quote

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Join Date Jan 1st, 2009 Location Salt Lake City, UT Posts 2,787 Vehicles '92 Gti 20v, '96 M3, '10 Shop Van :) FV-QR 08-21-2009 01:40 PM #5

The sensors are all interchangeable, the cam trigger wheels are not. Must have a 4 window one on there. The 16 rollers bit is definitely correct, the problems come in with which tooth is the correct one to place the 16th roller on- on the intake cam.

Put the cams in the head, use a straightedge (push down hard) across the flats on the cams so they are horizontal. On the intake cam, one bolt should be facing straight up and lined up with the mark. Looking down the length of the camshaft- the sprocket "valley" counterclockwise from the mark- is the one the 16th roller should be in. There is also one of the edges of a cam sensor wheel which should line up "flush" with the head when the intake camshaft is in position correctly- once you have the chain and tensioner in place, forget about it, they can move around everywhere with the amount of slop in those tensioners.

If you are still confused- email me with pics and i'll help. .:Facebook:..:IntEngineering.com:. Check out some cutting edge R&D Work on our blog! IE Behind the scenes Blog! Reply With Quote

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Join Date Mar 3rd, 2008 Location Green Bay Posts 2,490 Vehicles 01 TT 225

Re: First Start Woes: Cams? (transient_analysis) 08-21-2009 01:50 PM #6

Same head or did you swap to an AEB by chance and not swap around the cam position sensors and wheels? I have no idea what you have done as a build so just a thought...good luck Edit: I see pete already covered this.

Modified by jwalker1.8 at 1:02 PM 8-21-2009 FS/FT 2001 TT (400 WHP) Roadster Wisconsin lots of extras http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...lots-of-extras Reply With Quote

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Re: First Start Woes: Cams? (18T_BT) 08-21-2009 01:57 PM Quote, originally posted by 18T_BT Are you using the correct Cam Position Sensor? I sure as hell hope so.. it's the same one I started with do I need something than my stock AWP one with the CAT cams? #7

quick pic of the bay (better ones later):

Here's the timing mark on the crank:

take my word, but this lines up with the mark on the valve cover 100%. Because the timing pulley matches up so well with the valve cover, I'm assuming that the exhaust cam is in the right spot.. and the intake cam is off.

Here's some good pictures of the lineup:

I swapped in a non VVT tensioner and the arc on the chain looks a little high.. I noticed the marks on the intake cam looking off, but since the blue mark on the sproket lined up okay, I figured I was good... Then I looked at the bently.. and I'm thinking I need to line the blue dot and link 16 up together on the intake cam <3.

also what makes me think I need to rotate the intake cam one tooth towards the front of the car is this:

Note the ground away sections "108*" on the exhaust, and "110*" on the intake. The 108 is pretty much level with the engine (with a slight tilt towards the engine centerline) and the 110 is tilted by ~10-15* towards the center of the engine.. I'd suspect that the 110 is supposed to be "flat" like the 108, and to do so means rotating one tooth towards the front of the car. a stock exhaust cam is also in that picture, but it's hard to correlate in 2D.. if I go by the lobes (which I recall we're not supposed to do with aftermarket cams ) the CATs need to rotate a tooth forward again.. so.. unless I'm being really really dumb (bound to happen ) I'm going to adjust the intake cam one tooth..

stupid bolts and having to bleed the lifters :/ stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/ Reply With Quote

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08-21-2009 02:05 PM

#8 Thanks Pete!

gonna go rip the cams out now.. as for the build here's some info: gt3076 on full race with 3" exhaust into stock muff stupid hardlines IE rods AWP head with ported intake, stock exhaust inconel exhaust valves with manganese guides stock intake valves stock lifters (picked the best from 2 used heads)

stiffer springs cat 3651's that's the important engine stuff stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/ Reply With Quote

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Join Date Mar 3rd, 2008 Location Green Bay Posts 2,490 Vehicles 01 TT 225 Re: First Start Woes: Cams? (transient_analysis) 08-21-2009 02:09 PM #9

Double check the cam position sensor itself's wireharness is plugged in properly...it's such a tight spot and that little metal clip can get twisted and a bad connection can be made very easily...happened to me once...same codes more or less FS/FT 2001 TT (400 WHP) Roadster Wisconsin lots of extras http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...lots-of-extras

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Re: First Start Woes: Cams? (jwalker1.8) 08-21-2009 03:04 PM #10

well.. cams are dumb and stupid difficult. So I started to tear down the head by starting with clamping the chain tensioner.. then the dam intake cam "popped" into the right spot.. ROAR.. I haven't adjusted the chain on the cams at all.. so here's some more pictures.

I half did what pete suggested and played with the tensioner tool and a crecent wrench to get the cams flat:

looking at the other end we have:

so WTF?!??!

look at what the bently says side by side with the exhaust cam:

it almost looks like the cat cam has it's sprocket hole directly lined up with the timing mark, instead of offset like what the manual says to do.. could the cat cam have the gear installed off by 1/2 tooth? Also pete, when aligned correctly, how is the cam position sensor supposed to go? gonna take a picture now.. stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/ Reply With Quote

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08-21-2009 03:15 PM

#11

and one more picture of the cam position sensor:

the horizontal red line is what I think you're saying lines up with the cam sensor.. and the vertical-ish lines are the spots I think the sensor lines up to the head with. This is for the "flat" cam case (where the 108 and 110 are level). stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/ Reply With Quote

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Join Date Jan 1st, 2009 Location Salt Lake City, UT Posts 2,787 Vehicles '92 Gti 20v, '96 M3, '10 Shop Van :) FV-QR 08-21-2009 03:55 PM #12 Looks off to me... Don't worry about that OEM diagram whatsoever, and certainly don't do the "one tooth over" on the exhaust cam it describes. if the exhaust cam is straight up in the head (lined up with V/C mark), one tooth notch on the sprocket is straight up and lined up with the mark on the cam cap. That is the #1 roller. Intake cam:

In this photo, if that red mark is the 16th roller, you are off one tooth. Rotate the cam counter clockwise so the red mark / 16th tooth is on the tooth with the blue mark / just counterclockwise of that bolt that is almost straight up in that photo. I know it's silly hard... When you have two M.E.'s over here scratching our heads trying to figure out a repeatable procedure that can be done with no special tools and is easy to describe... That's when you know its time to put some regular marks back on the cams! The other thing you can do is get two dowels / something small and flat. Put them on a desk and lay the cat intake cam on them (on the cam journals so both camshaft center lines are at the same height)... Rig it up somehow so that the cam sensor wheel slots are parallel... Then look straight at the end of the cams, and count the number of teeth up and around to the factory cam mark. Repeat on the cat, and mark with a paint pen. The exhaust cam is simple as I mentioned, use the tooth straight up at the mark when installed as #1 roller. 16 rollers between them. *don't* do the factory stepover thing. .:Facebook:..:IntEngineering.com:. Check out some cutting edge R&D Work on our blog! IE Behind the scenes Blog! Reply With Quote

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Join Date Jan 1st, 2009 Location Salt Lake City, UT Posts 2,787 Vehicles '92 Gti 20v, '96 M3, '10 Shop Van :) FV-QR 08-21-2009 04:44 PM #13

Just did this off those pictures. DISCLAIMER: ALL CAT CAMS DO NOT NECESSARILY SHARE THE SAME BOLT PATTERN. Do not use these pictures if your camshafts do not line up exactly as shown with the flats ground into them horizontally, and do not use them if the #1 cylinder lobes are not at the "10 and 2" position with these marks.

There should be 16 rollers between the two red dots on the cam sprockets. .:Facebook:..:IntEngineering.com:. Check out some cutting edge R&D Work on our blog! IE Behind the scenes Blog! Reply With Quote

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Re: FV-QR (pete@integrated) 08-21-2009 06:31 PM #14

*** DISCLAIMER.. All the above pictures of the intake cam are busted!!! note the dumb backing out bolts below ***

"Well there's your problem!"...

I started taking out the cams and found that the bolts holding the cams on were ALL (yes I mean every single one of them) backing out. The one above was fished out from within the head.. it didn't look to get stuck in the springs at all while running (woohoo!!) but there was some casualty in the matter: the chain tensioner housing..

Luckilly there aren't too many aluminum shavings from the tensioner in there.. already cleaned it

and here's the difference in timing from missing the bolt, to having the bolt.

NO BOLT:

BOLT INSTALLED:

sorry.. the difference is hard to see in those pictures.. but on this last one the difference between the dot and faint line to the right just behind the cam sprocket is almost a tooth.. so I believe this explains why when I first started the car it actually idled and stabilized... then after doing a TBA and starting again, the car sounded like crap, and strange noises were coming from the head..

finally, shipped with the cams when I first got them was a bottle of lock-tite. I assumed that the shop I had build the head used all the lock-tite as I didn't get it back. Really it's my own fault for not checking all the bolts before installation.. Luckily it appears salvageable and I think I'll get a new bolt and lock-tite and be able to start this ish up again tonight.. Pete, thanks for the help here and on the phone *** again. the pictures above this post should be taken with a grain of salt due to the missing bolt as pictured in this post *** stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/

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Join Date Sep 18th, 2005 Posts 1,387 Re: (transient_analysis) 08-21-2009 06:33 PM Quote, originally posted by transient_analysis gt3076 on full race with 3" exhaust into stock muff Im running a stock GLI exhaust. Nothing wroing with that Cutout baby #15

Im praying for you man. I want to know how these cams do so bad. Theyre on my to do list for winter but im so undecided as not much is out there on these. Best of luck getting this thing going

Modified by bakana at 3:35 PM 8-21-2009 Reply With Quote

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FV-QR 08-21-2009 06:33 PM #16

did you put loctite on the bolts? edit just read what you said... damn you should have checked

Modified by halchka99 at 3:37 PM 8-21-2009

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Join Date May 3rd, 2006 Location Toronto Posts 4,636 Vehicles '12 GTI 08-21-2009 06:51 PM #17

I don't see that happening if loc-tite was used and torqued. Chitty deal none the less. '12 CSG GTI - |DSG|LUX|TECH|SERRON|STG 2 APR| Reply With Quote

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Re: (16plus4v) 08-21-2009 07:25 PM Quote, originally posted by 16plus4v I don't see that happening if loc-tite was used and torqued. Chitty deal none the less. yeah.. it's totally my fault for neglecting to check.. Just got back with a new bolt and loc-tite.. back to the build! stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/ Reply With Quote #18

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Join Date May 3rd, 2006 Location Toronto Posts 4,636 Vehicles '12 GTI Re: (transient_analysis) 08-21-2009 08:01 PM Quote, originally posted by transient_analysis yeah.. it's totally my fault for neglecting to check.. Just got back with a new bolt and loc-tite.. back to the build! #19

'12 CSG GTI - |DSG|LUX|TECH|SERRON|STG 2 APR| Reply With Quote

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Re: (16plus4v) 08-22-2009 02:39 AM #20

Despite my best effort I'm still having issues with an lumpy idle... but if I rev it the engine sounds just fine (video below)

I fixed little bolts in the cam and used loc-tite and then re-installed the cams.. but first I compared the cats with some stock guys side by side.

and then just the cats:

so with the above timing I figure the lobes look to be in the same spot as each other, and the timing marks are as suggested by Pete.

Here's the timing in the car:

During the 1.8t warmup period I had to play with the throttle to keep it from stalling.. after a minute the thing settled and "idled".. but like poo.. Here's a video! (right clicky)

Compression is the same on all cylinders (~195ish):

but the plugs were all fouled:

so now I'm at a loss for what's wrong.. anyone have an idea of why the car sounds okay when revving, but not at idle? has anyone actually gotten these new cat cams to work?? gonna give it a shot again in the AM..
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Posts: 75 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 4 Posts I just changed my own timing chain tensioners........

yup, after sourcing all the right tools for locking off the cams , and the crank pulley remover along with the flywheel ( torque converter ) locking tool , and after buying all the right parts from my local Jag dealership including all new gaskets for the cam-cover ( outer seal, spark plug seals , bolt seals , variable cam sensor sealing ring etc etc ) i plucked up the courage to take the engine apart

my catalyst for this job was two-fold, firstly , i had minor oil leaks from a few places on the cam cover along with the spark plug wells and the variable sensor seals, i didnt like this at all secondly , the tensioners them selves, as they were an unknown quantity and i had just reached 90k miles in my 1999 Nikasil engined XJ8 Sov ( successful blow-by test recently carried out 19ltrs/ per something or other ?? ) with spanners in hand i removed all the cover trims and the spark-plug coil covers on both cams, and carefully replaced all the bolts back in their holes as not to loose any ( i did this all the way through he job), removed the coils and wiring and tucked out of the way , and proceed to remove the cam-covers , was a little surprised at having to guide the cover up and over the cam sensor on the front of the engine, the seal broke away as i did it, all the rubber/plastic seals were flat and pretty much U/S , thats why i had a full new set ( 78 ), did this on both sides

once all the top is removed you can easily see the secondary timing chain tensioners, they are the orange parts in the pictures, they start off as white, but with the oil and the heat they go orange and deteriorate and eventually split or loose a slipper against the chain

i then proceeded to set up the cams, this is done by turning over the bottom crank pulley by hand with a 24mm socket an a large ratchet , i did this until i reached TDC and the two pairs of cams ' flats ' were parallel to each other, this was checked with a steel straight edge ruler , once in this position i installed the locking tools and bolted them down very tight , while remembering it was into aluminium!!! the picture below shows the cam locking tool, with the sprocket spanner and a 10mm Allen key for removal of the sprocket bolt and washer

BOTH pairs of cams MUST be locked off together, as any movement is fatal to the timing , undo the two 8mm bolts holding down the old tensioner, the exhaust sprocket can now be removed , the bolt is very long , and be sure not to drop anything down the covers !!! while holding the sprocket and chain in one hand, remove and lift out of the way and remove the old tensioner, then drop in the new tensioner and replace the sprocket onto the cam shaft , screw in the cam bolt hand tight at this point, straighten up and fix down the new tensioner , then remove the spring retaining pin to tension the chain , then tighten the sprocket bolt to 70 lb feet with a torque wrench do the same on the other side, ensure everything is tight and then check again , and then when feeling brave remove the cam locking tools , nothing should move at this point this picture shows the new tensioner fully in place and tightened up after removal of cam tools

now for the results ........... the original tensioners looked fine in place, but when they came out i could see that all the work was worth the effort , the right bank one had a 1mm split starting on it, but worse then this the bottom ( spring ) slipper was severely worn and gouged out, showing ' bubbles ' in the original plastic moulding wearing through

the left bank one showed hardly any wear to the slipper, but the shank had a 4mm split in it , so all in all a top job methinks, the new aluminium tensioner can be seen in the background , BTW, the new tensioners require four new SHORTER bolts to fix them down, and 0.96 each....

it took me four hours on Saturday to strip the engine , and four hours on sunday to complete the job all the mating surfaces were cleaned of oil and old gasket, and the engine was put back together, i then ( with heart in mouth) turned her over to see if it was asucess ? voila!!( sp ) she lives, muhahahaha drover down to bristol and back today , very gingerly with the radio off, lol but not a beat was missed

BB ( have already sold on the tools to another Jag owner who has also now done the job himself ......third time so far.....) __________________

Cam-Torque Actuated Variable Valve Timing System

Cam Phasers, Activate! BorgWarner's new approach to variable valve timing is cam-torque actuated.
August 2010 BY MICHAEL AUSTIN ILLUSTRATION BY PETER SUCHESKI

Most modern variable valve-timing (VVT) systems use a cam phaser that rotates the position of each camshaft relative to the timing chain. Think of making a record turntable go faster or slower by spinning it with your hands. The cam phaser has two basic components: an outer sprocket connected to the timing chain and an inner rotor (connected to the camshaft) that varies the valve timing by adjusting the rotation angle of the cam. This inner rotor consists of a set of lobes, and oil fills the space between the outer housing and the lobes. Left alone, the rotor will simply spin at the same rate as the outer housing. If you add oil to one side of the lobe and remove it from the other, the rotor moves, andvoil!theres your variable valve timing. The majority of these VVT systems use oil pressure to push the rotor back and forth, but BorgWarner thinks its cam-torque-actuated (CTA) system marks an important step forward. Oil-pressure-actuated (OPA) systems require an upsize oil pump to produce the extra pressure thats required to work the cam phasers, which saps some of the fuel-economy gains of VVT. With a mechanical oil pump, OPA systems dont work well at low engine speeds because the pump doesnt build pressure and volume until the revs get higher. The CTA system avoids those pitfalls by using Newtons Third Law of Motionfor every action there is an equal and opposite reactionto move the oil in the cam phasers. When a cam lobe pushes a valve open, the valve spring resists that force and pushes back. Similarly, when the valve spring pushes a valve closed, it also pushes on the cam lobe in the opposite direction from the valve opening. When multiplied over an entire camshaft, there is enough energy from these back-and-forth forces to make cam phasing work.

Another trick to BorgWarners system is the way it moves oil. A center spool valve, controlled by a solenoid inside the cam-phasing rotor, directs the flow. With the valve open in one direction, oil flows into only one side of the oil pockets and cant leave. By sliding the valve back and forth, the system can mete out the precise amount of oil flow on either side of the rotor lobes. The key advantages of the CTA system are that it responds quickly even at idle and can operate using a standard engines oil pump. But there are downsides. As engine speeds increase, the CTA system becomes less effective. This happens because the valve events occur more frequently, reducing the time available to move the oil. Conversely, OPA systems work better as oil pressure increases and are better at high rpm. So theres not much of a peak power gain from a CTA system; it improves performance and efficiency in other areas of the rev range. Also, CTA cam phasing is at the mercy of the natural oscillations of those forces on the camshaft. Valve openings and closings in an inline-six are spaced too closely for the system to work well. But a V-6 (or inline-three) is perfectly suited because there isnt as much overlap between each valve event. The system also works on V-8 engines. CTA variable valve timing debuted on Fords 3.0-liter Duratec V-6, beginning with the 2009 Escape and the 2010 Fusion. The 3.7-liter V-6 in the Mustang uses BorgWarners system, too, as do the 2011 Edge and Lincoln MKX. You can also find it on the Mustangs 5.0-liter V-8 as well as the V-8 engines used in Jaguar and Land Rover vehicles. These engines efficiencies show the virtues of the CTA system. View Photo Gallery
PHOTOS (33)

LS: the oilringoil seal leak - sorry i..camshaft..timing belt..lean

Customer Question
Ask your own question now > I have y2000 1uz engine code,LS 400, I thought i could change the "oilring"oil seal leak - sorry i don t know the english word- on the end of the camshaft than i change the timing belt.After came the

suprise.I dont know how to install it together from the timing belt,because of the vvti engine i dont know which state should i install the vvti head.it can lean left or right. so my question is ,can u please tell me the correct procedure of how to install together the engine from the timing belt change. l thax Joe Submitted: 1202 days ago. Category: Lexus Status: CLOSED

Posted by AutoTech08 1201 days and 21 hours ago.

Expert's Answer
Hi there, Do you mean you have difficulty aligning the timing marks for the belt installation? Here are the diagrams for the cam and crank alignment.

Installation 1. Install No. 1 idler pulley and plate washer (if removed). Apply Loctite 242 or equivalent on threads of idler pulley pivot bolt. Install and tighten bolt to specification. 2. If removed, install No. 2 idler pulley and bolt. Tighten bolt to specification. Ensure idler pulleys are clean and rotate smoothly. Ensure idler pulley bracket moves freely. 3. Clean any oil or water off of crankshaft timing pulley. DO NOT use solvent. Temporarily install timing belt on crankshaft timing pulley, No. 1 idler pulley, and No. 2 idler pulley. If reusing old belt, ensure mating mark on timing belt aligns with mark on crankshaft timing pulley. 4. Install timing belt guide in original direction on end of crankshaft. Install gasket and timing belt cover spacer. Install gaskets and No. 1 timing belt cover. 5. Without rotating crankshaft, align crankshaft key with key groove of crankshaft pulley. Using hammer and Pulley Installer (09223-46011) or equivalent, install crankshaft pulley.

6. Install serpentine drive belt tensioner. Tighten bolts to specification. Install generator. Ensure crankshaft is still at 50 degrees ATDC position. See Fig. 4 .

7. Ensure camshaft timing pulleys are still aligned with mating marks on rear plate. See Fig. 3 . Clean camshaft timing pulleys (do not use solvent). Install timing belt on left side (driver's side) camshaft pulley. If reusing old timing belt, ensure mating mark on belt aligns with mark on left side camshaft pulley. 8. Using spanner wrench, turn left side camshaft pulley until there is tension on timing belt between crankshaft timing pulley and left side camshaft pulley. 9. Install timing belt on right side camshaft pulley. If reusing old belt, ensure mating mark on belt aligns with mark on right side camshaft pulley. Ensure there is tension on timing belt between left side and right side camshaft pulleys. 10. Using press, SLOWLY apply about 200-220.5 lbs. of pressure on push rod of timing belt tensioner until rod is retracted. Ensure timing belt tensioner is held with push rod facing upward. Holes in push rod and housing must be aligned. See Fig. 7 .

11. Install hexagon wrench through holes in housing and rod to hold rod in retracted position. See Fig. 7 . Release press. Install dust boot on timing belt tensioner. Install timing belt tensioner. Alternately tighten bolts to specification. CAUTION: Always rotate crankshaft clockwise as viewed from front of engine. DO NOT rotate crankshaft counterclockwise. 12. Remove hexagon wrench from timing belt tensioner. Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt. Slowly rotate crankshaft 2 full revolutions clockwise from TDC to TDC. Ensure timing marks on camshaft sprockets align with timing marks on timing belt rear plate. See Fig. 3 . If timing marks are not aligned, remove timing belt and reinstall. 13. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolt to specification. Install fan bracket. 14. Install A/C compressor. Install No. 2 timing belt cover. Install No. 3 timing belt covers. Connect camshaft position sensor electrical connectors. Install serpentine drive belt idler pulley. 15. Install radiator assembly. Install air cleaner assembly. Fill and bleed cooling system. Start engine and open heater water valve. Maintain engine speed at 20002500 RPM until engine is warm. Stop engine. When engine is cool, refill coolant reservoir.

AutoTech0839968.5941787384

TIMING CHAIN ELONGATION VISUAL CHECK

note

When the timing chain elongates more than the specified length, the diagnosis code No. P0012, variable valve timing (VVT) advanced-angle value abnormal, is set. Unless the diagnosis code No. P0012, therefore, is output, the visual check is unnecessary. Unless the work using the following M.U.T-III is correctly carried out due to the malfunction of engine-ECU, carry out the check whether or not the diagnosis code exists.

note

Storing the learning value regarding the amount of timing chain elongation before the engine-ECU replacement Writing the learning value into the new engine-ECU after the engine-ECU replacement

1.Remove all the ignition coils. 2.Remove the cylinder head cover. 3.Remove the upper chain guide. Always rotate the crankshaft clockwise.

caution

4.Rotating the crankshaft clockwise, align the timing mark of camshaft sprocket with the point on the upper plane of cylinder head shown in the illustration. As a result of this, the No.1 cylinder is positioned at the

compression TDC. 5.Look at the inside of timing chain case with one eye in the direction of arrow shown in the illustration. Fix the visual line at the point where the top axis line of the chain elongation indicator at the front side of timing chain case is overlapped with that of the chain elongation indicator at the reverse side of timing chain case.

6.Check the end gear face of timing chain "A" cross section surface and the point of chain elongation indicator which is fixed in Step 5. When the end gear face of timing chain "A" is positioned at the lefthand side of chain elongation indicator, it is unnecessary to replace the timing chain because the timing chain is within the specified length. When the end gear face of timing chain "A" is positioned at the righthand side of chain elongation indicator, it is necessary to replace the timing chain because the timing chain elongates more than the specified length. 7.Install the upper chain guide. 8. Completely remove all the old FIPG, caution which might be remaining among the components. Remove any liquid gasket remaining

on the cylinder head cover, the timing chain case and the cylinder head. 9.Using white gasoline and so on, degrease the cylinder head cover, timing chain case and cylinder head. The cylinder head cover should be installed within caution 3 minutes of applying liquid gasket. 10.Apply a 4 mm bead of liquid gasket as illustrated. Specified sealant: Three bond 1217G or equivalent

11.Installing the cylinder head cover, tighten the tightening bolt according to the following procedures. (1) Temporarily tighten the tightening bolt in the order shown in the illustration. Tightening torque: 3.0 1.0 Nm (2) Tighten the tightening bolt to the specified torque in the order shown in the illustration. Specified torque: 5.5 0.5 Nm 12.Install all the ignition coils. 13.Use the M.U.T.-III to select the timing chain maintenance. Initialize the learning value. Refer to GROUP 00, General - Precautions before service - Timing chain maintenance . Carry out the initialization even if the amount of timing chain elongation is normal. As a result of this, it is necessary to replace the timing chain before

note

the timing chain interferes with the other components when the next warning lamp illuminates or the diagnosis code No. P0012 is output.
Here is a picture of what not to do....I pointed this out to the company when they were showcasing their build......WRONG GEAR ,WRONG BOLTS,AND STOCK TENSIONER!!!!!

Here is a little data for you:

LS CAMSHAFT SENSOR SPROCKET OR GEAR & CRANKSHAFT RELECTOR ID PAGE A) Single bolt 4X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2007-2011 LS2 or LS3 engine. 2009-2010 LSA engines.

B) Three bolt 4X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2006 LS2 Corvette or from a 2006-2009 LS7, 2009-2010 LS9.

C) Three bolt 1X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2005 LS2 Corvette or a 20052006 LS2 GTO, SSR or Trailblazer engine.

D) Three bolt camshaft sprocket or gear from a 1997-2004 LS1, LS6 or other Gen III V8 engines. No reluctor teeth are on the gear because the camshaft reluctor would be built into the camshaft core at the back of the engine. Crankshaft reluctor wheel images:

Here is what your cam install kit should contain:

1ZZFE 1998 - 1999 Toyota Corolla 1ZZFE 1998 - 1999 Geo Prizm (Above are non-variable valve timing engines) Timing chain kit, from Preferred Components, includes chain, left and right guide rails, 3 sprockets and ratcheting tensioner (large body = 1.178" diameter)

I need to know how retime the cams with the gears on a 2000

Answered by:Andy Volvo Master Technician Positive Feedback: 99.0 % Accepted Answers: 2472

in Volvo Recent Feedback Positive Gave me GREAT advice ...So Thankful ...Thank you again ANDY ... YOU ROCK!! Positive Andy was great. It was clear he knows his stuff on volvo's. it was great... Positive Clock spring replaced a few months ago (making noise) what else would you think Positive Did a great Job Positive Thanks for fast and complete explanation Positive Andy, thanks again. You relieved my concern. Positive Andy, Thanks for the help. Car is up and running again. I am sure sooner or... Positive Thanks Andy _ I hope volvo have upgraded throttle bodies to prevent similar... Positive Answered exactly what i asked for in under 10 minutes, exceptional! Positive Thanks

Customer Question

I need to know how retime the cams with the gears on a 2000 Volvo S40. I pulled the head so I pulled the cam gears off of the camshafts. I don't know how they allign because they press on. Thanks Optional Information: Year: 2000 Make: Volvo Model: S40 Engine: B4204T 1.9L Submitted: 1048 days and 14 hours ago. Category: Volvo Value: $15 Status: CLOSED

Expert: Andyreplied 1048 days and 13 hours ago. HelloIn order to precisely reinstall the camshafts and the gears with VVT, you need Volvo special tools to properly align the camshafts and crankshaft. Aftermarket versions of the tools can often be found on ebay for around $300. If you already have the engine apart, it might be less to tow the car to a dealership and just have them set up the cams and VVT hub (depending on the labor rates). An independent shop specializing in Volvos may also have the tool and they would be less than the dealership. If you would like to buy the tools and tackle it yourself, I can certainly post the procedure for you.

Customerreplied 1048 days and 13 hours ago. Can you put a bar on the back of the cams to allign them somehow in the slots?

Expert: Andyreplied 1048 days and 13 hours ago. You have the right idea, that's what one of the special tools is. It bolts to the back of the cams to lock them in a precise position. There is also a pin that is inserted into the side of the block through an access hole behind the starter to pin the crank at the exact position needed. Here is a picture of the tools in use:

Customerreplied 1048 days and 13 hours ago. So there's no way w/o the tools?

Expert: Andyreplied 1048 days and 13 hours ago. Is the upper cam cover already bolted onto the head?

Customerreplied 1048 days and 12 hours ago. Yes. If I knew how the slots alligned I think I could do it. I tried to put a bar in it with the cover off then put the cam gears on the marks but apparently the crank needs to be in annother location or the camshafts one. I did it w/the cams same part of the slot up and the crank on the timing mark, also w/the cams viseversa.

Expert: Andyreplied 1048 days and 12 hours ago. Okay, well you are probably going to need to remove the cam cover again to align everything. You can try this, but I do not recommend doing so. Do not try to turn the crank or the cams with the cam cover bolted down as it is probably not timed right and you can break or bend valves!

After removing the cam cover, you need to set the crank to line up as indicated in the following picture:

Now, you have obviously noticed the notches in the back of the camshafts. Notice that they are not exactly in the center. With the crankshaft aligned properly, the intake camshaft is installed with the notch ABOVE center and the exhaust camshaft has the notch BELOW center. Both notches should be going straight across, parallel with the top of the cylinder head. Now reinstall the cam cover. There are special tools for this as well (they come in the aftermarket kits) that slowly press the cover on evenly. Without them, you risk breaking the cover. The cams may move slightly during this. Once the cover is installed, turn the cams back

to the proper position. The rest of the procedure is as it would be with the tools installed to hold the cams: Installing the camshaft timing gear pulley

Timing gear pulleys without Variable Valve Timing (VVT)

install the upper timing cover install the timing gear pulley without variable valve timing on the camshaft. Use the two screws positioned so that the markings on the timing gear pulleys and upper timing cover correspond. Do not tighten

Timing gear pulleys with Variable Valve Timing (VVT):

Install the timing gear pulley using the center screw on the camshaft. Ensure that the markings on the timing gear pulleys/upper timing cover correspond. Do not tighten.

Installing the timing belt Install the timing belt on the timing gear pulleys.

Note! Adjust so that the screws in the timing gear pulley without variable valve timing do not reach the limit position in the oval holes. Note! This adjustment is to be made with a cold engine. Suitable temperature is approximately 20C/67F . At higher temperatures (with the engine at operating temperature or a high outside temperature for example) the indicator is further to the right.

The illustration shows the position of the indicator at different engine temperatures.

Carefully turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing belt is tensioned. The belt must be tensioned between the intake camshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the crankshaft Hold the belt tensioner center screw secure. Turn the belt tensioner eccentric counterclockwise until the tensioner indicator passes the marked position. Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window

Hold the eccentric securely. Tighten the center screw. Tighten to 20 Nm

Tightening the timing gear pulley Tighten the center screw on the timing belt tensioner with variable valve timing. Tighten to 90 Nm. Install the plug. Tighten to 35 Nm. Install the third screw on the camshaft without variable valve timing. Tighten to 20 Nm. Remove the adjustment tools. Check

Press the belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily Install the upper timing cover Turn the crankshaft two turns. Check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.

Note! Check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked area.

Remove the upper timing cover.

Installing timing covers Install:

Because you are not using the tools, it is very important to turn the engine over by hand two full revolutions with the belt on to make sure no valves are hitting. If you ever feel the engine stop, DO NOT keep turning or you will bend or break a valve. Remember, this is not the proper procedure but it may work. If you turn it over by hand twice with no problems, it should be alright though it may still be slightly off. It won't cause damage but it may not run right. I would suggest buying the tools to be certain everything is correct. You might also try calling your dealership to see if they will lend you the tools (with a deposit). My particular dealer does not do this, but some may. It's worth a shot.

Customerreplied 1048 days and 12 hours ago. Thanks man I think I can do this. But on this engine the VVT pulley is on the left(exhaust). I want to make sure that I still time them like you said.I thank you alot for your help. I'm an independent shop, but I've never tackled anything quiet like this engine. We've been trying to time it for 4 days now. Please reply about the camshafts though if it makes any difference about the VVT pulley being on the left. Do I still put the notch BELOW center and the intake above. Or did your engine just have the intake on the rear. Thanks Andy I will definitely accept.

Accepted Answer

Expert: Andyreplied 1048 days and 12 hours ago. Right, the VVT is only on the exhaust cam on that motor. I'm sorry I forgot to mention that Volvo uses the same pictures for many repair manuals. The information is the same, it's just the pictures may not be the same model. The rear notches are the same as I described above. Here is a picture I found of someone who made their own tool. Keep in mind these cams are in the cover, not the engine. So the cam on the left is the exhaust cam and the cam on the right is the intake cam.

Also, be sure to use the proper sealer between the head and the cam cover to make sure it doesn't leak. VVT sprocket unlocking procedure with pics.

So you wanna change your cams and play with the big boys or just have some time to waste and feel some sudden love towards your stock cams? Every time you remove the VVT sprocket you need to go through this procedure. If you dont do it this way , you run the chance of wedging the pin tight....thus making the VVT inoperable. No vvt = no optimum power at all rpms! There's a TSB about this...I have tried it and is hard to do especially on a new sprocket + with their way you have no leverage(the cam) to turn it while it gets unlocked by the air pressure. I wont go through the valve cover removal and all the rest as this is all obvious....and if it's not to you ....well ...stick to the appearance sections and have the job done by someone who has a bit more experience. You have replaced the cam and you're ready to bolt up the VVT sprocket. This is what it looks like:

That's the hole you're going to blow some air into(there's another one on the other side, don't worry about it where going to use ethier one). Reinstall and tighten the bolt that holds the VVT sprocket.... by hand only. Get some electrical tape and start taping ....criss crossing it until you have

covered all the holes except the one your going to blow some air through. You might want to clean the part with a bit of solvent beforehand so that the tape sticks and makes a better seal.

If you're reusing your old VVT wear some glasses and take a rag to cover the sprocket....there's still plenty of oil in there....ask me how I know. Now you're ready to unlock it:

It helps to have an extra pair of hands for this part but its doable by yourself . Now start blowing some air (about 20 PSI worth of it)and start turning COUNTERCLOCKWISE...some times it takes a couple of shots...just work at it back and forth until you feel it unlocking and moving. To give you an idea how much of movement where talking about, I marked it with some tape:

Now keep it fully turned(unlocked) and tighten the bolt that holds the VVT sprocket to the cam to 40ft-lbs. Then you can go ahead and lock it back in place(clockwise) before reinstalling it on the head. Voila..... PS: If you spot any mistakes feel free to point them out. __________________