This popsicle bridge was made from 58 unmodified popsicle sticks.

It was 25 inches long, 4 inches tall, and 3 inches wide. I used only Elmers white glue to build the bridge. It weighed 86.5 grams, and held 45 pounds. Its efficiency score was 248. Build This Bridge

I redesigned this bridge from the earlier version. The new one is more efficient. It is also easier to build. I changed the position of only a couple popsicle sticks, and actually took off a few. I found that the average popsicle stick weighed 1.49 grams.

Stronger Version
This bridge uses the same basic design as the one above but doubles the number popsicle sticks in strategic places.

This popsicle bridge was made from 84 unmodified popsicle sticks. It spanned 24 inches, was 4 inches tall and 3 inches wide. I used only Elmers white glue to build the bridge. It weighed 118 grams, and held 115 pounds. Its efficiency score was 442.

This bridge is slightly crooked, even though you cannot tell it from this photo. Im sure that had an affect on its performance. However, this bridge was also tested 5 times. Both my sisters stood on it, and one twice before this picture was taken.

Here is my sister standing on the bridge:

I thought I was making a movie when I tested the bridge, but found out afterward that I hadnt started the camera. Oh well, maybe next time. Here are some photos of the broken bridge. None of the popsicle sticks actually broke. Only the joints failed. This is something for me to keep in mind, as it should be very easy to make this bridge a lot stronger.

I have developed a system for bending wood for my arch bridges, and though I do not claim it is the best way, it works well for me. I have a pot, or basin rather, that is about 18 long and 12 deep. I fill it with about two cups of water (I have found that more water just takes longer to start boiling, and I usually dont boil all of it anyway) and stick it on a stove burner. Currently I am using a stove that has a glass top and the burners are underneath, but in the past I have used one that had burners above the top of the stove. I place any wood I am steaming on top of the basin, I usually have at least one or two pieces that are longer then the basin and some that are shorter, but the shorter ones lay on the longer pieces so that nothing is actually touching the water at this time, for the goal was to steam and not soak the wood. I turn the burner on high, and wait for the water to start boiling. I also place a shallow cookie sheet on top, to hold in the steam. I have never steamed my wood for over a half hour, perhaps I am too impatient. But with this amount of time the wood is very bendable. Beforehand, I have prepared two molds that consist of two sheets of wood, with a form of nails hammered into each, to mold the steamed wood. I have taken to making the mold a half inch or so taller then what I want the actual height of my arch, because the wood always bends a little less then the form afterward. You may want to use more or less extra height depending on the overall height of your arch. This form is fairly easy to make, I just set the height and length of what I want with nails, and then bend a stick of wood (usually 1/16 by 3/16) and hold it in place by clamping the wood to the nails with clothespins. I then add as many additional nails to the form as I see fit, along the arch of the wood. After steaming the wood I clamp the pieces to the form and wait another thirty minutes to an hour for it to dry. Again I may be impatient, but it works for me. I then apply glue to the wood, and wait 4-5 hours for it to set (that is the amount of time my glue takes to set). I then do a little sanding, and finish building my bridge. So far, I have built an 8.5 gram bridge (as of Jan/19/04) that held 16k and broke. However, the testing apparatus was not ideal, in the fact that I forgot to bring an S hook to the place I was testing, and had to make do with something else, which I believe may have unevenly applied the load to my bridge. But then again, that may not have been the case. I usually make my arches into the shape of an L beam, but have used a T beam in the past. I have never used an I beam, though that would most definitely be stronger but heavier. It is worth experimenting with.

V. Tips for Bridge Building

Always start with paper and pencil first. Sketch out your ideas. Draw your bridge in at least two views - looking at it from the side and looking at it from the end so you get a good idea of what youre building. Choose the design you are sure you can build. Are you confident your bridge will meet all the rules? Try using the West Point Bridge Designer at http://bridgecontest.usma.edu/ Think about how the load will transfer from the 3" x 3" loading area, through the structure and out to the supports at each end of the bridge. Not all parts of your bridge will have the same load running through them. What bridge members do you think will take the greatest load? Make those members stronger. Which members do you think will be in compression? Which ones will be in tension? A single popsicle stick in tension can hold more weight than one in compression which will buckle and snap. Make sure your compression members are strong. Your bridge members are only as strong as your connections, so pay special attention to the connections! How can you construct strong connections? Drilling or notching the end of bridge members is allowed. If your bridge has similar patterns that are repeated throughout your design, construct modules so the pattern is accurately constructed each time. If your pattern is not dimensionally consistent or each side of your overall bridge is not symmetrical, some parts of your bridge will take more load than you originally planned. Before you build your entire bridge you may want to test small parts of your bridge and compare one design to another to see which is stronger. You can even test your stick connections. How can you make a stronger stick connection? If you design a truss, be sure it extends all the way to the ends where it will be supported. Dont put a truss just in the center section.

If you use several rows of sticks to make up a structure, dont leave any sticks out or the structure probably will fail at that point.

Lateral supports (members that are perpendicular to the direction of traffic on the bridge) are important, but the majority of the strength is needed in the main members spanning the 30-inch gap (members that are parallel to the direction of bridge traffic). Your bridge is loaded on a 3-inch by 3-inch square on the roadway. Be sure to allow for the load to reach the rest of the bridge. Be sure to make strong connections between the roadway and the main members spanning the 30-inch gap. You dont want your roadway to fail before your main members are loaded up. How does your bridge look? If this were a real bridge, do you think the public would find it pleasing to the eye? Can you make your bridge attractive and strong at the same time? Construct a bridge on a surface that glue will not stick to! Try to work in an area you dont mind getting messed up. Are you at a loss for ideas? You can view photos and results from past contests on our website: http://sections.asce.org/seattle/AMF/popsicle/amf_psb.htm, but keep in mind that the rules were different each year. You will also find a copy of the latest contest rules and links to other helpful websites. Plan ahead!!! Dont wait until the night before the contest to finish the bridge! (Wet or damp glue doesnt work very well.) Tools to help you with your bridge construction:

pencil paper wire cutters for cutting sticks Exacto knife clips, rubber bands, and weights to clamp pieces together when the glue is drying and finally, ........ PATIENCE !!! (Good bridges take time to build.)

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/buildingbig/index.html