HEI Ignitions--A primer

GM has offered High Energy Ignition (HEI) systems on vehicles starting with selected '74 models. HEI was standard on '75 and newer vehicles. There is now tremendous aftermarket support for HEI, both for individual components and complete ready-to-run distributors. This guide is intended to help you understand the different kinds of HEI, as well as to help you sort out valid engineering from the silly claims primarily coming from keyword-spamming marketers of junky imported components. If you plan to use an HEI in a GM engine family, please check out my guides to GM Small-Blocks , GM Big-Block engines , and Chevrolet Big-Block engines . Kinds of HEI First, all HEI systems are a kind of electronic ignition, but not all electronic ignitions are HEI. Electronic "conversion kits" to eliminate distributor contact points or complete distributors which don't use GM HEI-style parts inside are NOT HEI systems. "HEI" is a GM/Delco trade name for their particular kind of electronic ignition, keeping in mind that the GM design evolved over the years. More broadly, it is used to describe aftermarket "copies" of the GM design, some of which are designed to be used in engine families that did not have GM/Delco-produced HEIs. For example, there are aftermarket copies of the HEI which have distributor housings designed to fit Ford engines. GM introduced HEI using a novel, "all-in-one" approach for it's V-8 and V-6 engines. This was an improvement of the earlier "Unit Ignition System" used on a very few Pontiacs starting around '72. (The older Unit ignition has the disadvantage that the spark plug wires are also unitized and not replaceable except as a complete set of eight because they are "tied together" at the distributor cap mount.) The Unit Ignition System uses a smaller-diameter cap and housing than the later HEI. The pre-HEI "Unit" ignition system is fairly rare. Please forgive the tiny photos, I have NO CONTROL over picture size allowed in eBay Guides.

Delco "Unit Ignition System" to fit a Pontiac engine. Photo courtesy of chellosnos, used with permission. The HEI ignition components (Distributor housing including the centrifugal and vacuum advance units, magnetic pickup and it's "trigger" the reluctor, the electronic module or amplifier, and the ignition coil) were placed in a single assembly. A single battery-voltage power wire supplied all that was needed to run the system. It is incorrect to call the power wire a "12-volt" supply, because when the starter motor is cranking the engine, the voltage may go as low as 9 volts, and as the alternator charges the battery, voltage may be as high as 15.5 volts. The HEI is designed to survive up to about 17 volts. A trigger wire connection was provided so that the HEI could drive an electrically-operated tach. These "all-in-one" units are called the "coil-in-cap" HEIs. The distributor caps (and the aluminum housing they attached to) were made considerably larger than what was traditional, engineers believed that the high voltage potential these ignitions were capable of mandated greater spacing between spark plug terminals to prevent crossfire. In the early years, the inline engines--4 and 6 cylinder--generally did not use the "all-in-one" design, they had remote-mounted ignition coils with a coil wire connecting the ignition coil to the distributor. The in-line engines did not use a larger-diameter cap and housing. The electronic control module became more complex as emissions requirements tightened over time, and a major revision to the HEI was done in '87 for Chevrolet trucks using Throttle Body Injection (TBI) so the Chevy TBI V-8 and V-6 engines no longer had the ignition coils in the distributor caps, and the caps were no longer of the larger diameter. The module is the heart of the HEI system, early modules had four electrical terminals: two large ones, for battery voltage input, (labeled "B") and the ignition coil grounding terminal (labeled "C"). There were two smaller terminals for the pickup coil leads to attach to (labeled "W" for white and "G" for green--the colors of the pickup coil lead wires. More on this later. These four-terminal modules are the most common ones, favored for typical "hot-rod" purposes on non-computer-controlled vehicles. I have seen photos of a three-terminal HEI module, they're listed as NAPA number TP46. I've never held one in my hand. They're VERY rare-but that doesn't mean they're valuable. There were three different versions of a five-terminal module, and they aren't interchangeable with one another. In each case, the fifth terminal was used to accept a signal that the module processed in order to retard the timing. All the "5-terminal" modules are used with distributors having conventional centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms. 1. HEI/EMR Electonic Module Retard uses a wire connected to a switch or to an electronic control package. Under certain conditions, the switch or control package will ground the wire, which triggers the retard feature built into the

distributor

module.

2. HEI/ESC Electronic Spark Control uses a knock sensor and an electronic controller. The knock sensor sends a voltage signal to the controller, which sends a voltage signal to the distributor module, activating the retard feature within the module. 3. HEI/ESS Electronic Spark Selection uses an outboard electronic decoder which receives voltage signals from three sources: a manifold pressure switch, the distributor pickup coil, and an engine temperature switch. The decoder processes the information and provides a voltage signal to the distributor module to adjust the amount of advance/retard. When vehicles went to full computer control of ignition timing and fuel mixture beginning in '80 or '81, a seventerminal module was used. This is termed HEI/EST (Electronic Spark Timing) These distributors did NOT have centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms, all timing advance was pre-programmed into the computer, using information from the entire array of engine sensors. Base timing could be adjusted, however. A not-common variant of HEI/EST used an additional in-distributor component called a Hall Effect Switch, providing a better signal to the computer at cranking speed than the ordinary pickup coil and reluctor. The later Chevrolet TBI separate-coil distributor, along with distributors for some other engines, use an 8-terminal module. Delco sold a marine distributor kit to upgrade older boat engines to electronic ignition, it was called the Delco Voyager Marine Distributor Ignition System. Kits were available for 2.5 and 3.0 liter 4-poppers (P/N 10457090), 4.3 liter V-6 (10457091), Small block Chevy (10457092) and Big Block Chevy engines (10457093). (the only difference between the small block and big block kits is the ignition coil--because of a different mounting bracket) These marine ignition kits relied on the timing curve built into the module for all spark advance. Sadly, these kits have been discontinued. It would be possible, therefore, to run a race-only engine using the marine 8-pin module and no computer, using the timing curve built into the marine module. Because there is no counterpart to vacuum advance, this would be a very poor choice for a street-driven car or truck. Coil-in-cap Although all early HEI distributors seem to look alike--aside from the housing changes needed to fit different engine families--there is a tendency for people to think that all the parts inside are the same, too. This is not the case especially in terms of the ignition coils and the pickup coils. Ignition coils and pickup coils should be considered a "matched set", that is, you need to look at the color codes on each part and match the codes to each other, and to the vehicle/engine family the distributor will be used in. Failure to use the appropriate color codes may result in poor starting and misfiring at low speed. The brand names listed are for the ENGINES, not the CARS--a Chevy-designed engine in a Buick car uses the Chevrolet color codes, not the Buick color codes. For V-8 engines, there are three color codes for the pickup coils: Yellow tyrap (early) or Yellow plastic connector (later) on the wires. Used on Chevrolet; Cadillac; and Olds engines in Toronado Blue tyrap (early) or Black plastic connector (later) on the wires. Used on Buick; and all Olds engines except those in Toronados. The lead wires are slightly longer than those used on the "yellow" pickup coil. Clear or NO tyrap (early), Clear or NO plastic connector (later) on the wires This is identical to the Blue/Black color code, except the wires are even longer to fit a Pontiac distributor. Sorry, I have NO CONTROL over the size of the photo.

Note the first two coils have green/white wires, the third has white/green wires. Wire lengths are from longest to shortest. The connectors are, in order, Clear (Pontiac), Black (Buick/Olds), Yellow (Chevy/Cadillac) The yellow connector is right-side-up, both the other two must be flipped over (wires crossed) to connect to the module. Crossing the wires preserves the electrical polarity while allowing reversed magnetic polarity. There are two color codes for the in-cap ignition coils: Red and Yellow wires Used on vehicles that use the Yellow Red and White wires Used on vehicles that use the Blue/Black, or Clear pickup coils coded pickup coil.

As a rule of thumb: If the engine has the starter motor on the right (passenger's side), it uses the yellow code parts. If it has the starter motor on the left, it uses the other set. Since Olds Toronados are the only Olds engines with the starter on the right, they use different coils from the other Olds engines. BUICK IS AN EXCEPTION, for reasons I do not know. I have confirmed the color codes and their applications for V-8 engines listed above in Delco Service Bulletin 1.2D-27 dated 12-1-75.

It has been claimed by others that the difference in the coils has to do with the direction of distributor rotation--that is NOT correct. NOTE #1 These coils may have different color codes, but NONE OF THEM is a HIGH PERFORMANCE/BETTER/FASTER/MORE POWERFUL version of another. You don't get stronger sparks with a yellow-coded set than the others. The ONLY difference is that when you pass an electric current through them, they produce a magnetic field in opposite directions. Note that for the Blue/Black and the Clear color coded pickup coils, the lead wires and the plastic connector (if used) are arranged in such a way that the wires must be crossed in order to connect them to the module. The Yellow-coded pickup coil wires plug in without crossing. This maintains proper ELECTRICAL polarity, while allowing reversed MAGNETIC polarity. And magnetic polarity is only important at low engine speeds, (especially cranking) because of electrical interference from the starter or perhaps the alternator--If the interference is "just right", the module gets a false trigger signal. Using the correct magnetic polarity pickup coil can eliminate the interference, and the correct magnetic polarity ignition coil is needed to match the pickup coil. You "can" mis-match the parts, but don't complain if the engine takes longer to crank or misfires during cranking. NOTE #2 Most parts books list the wrong coils for Olds engines installed in Toronados. Same for people selling "complete" Olds distributors--they don't specify which coils are used; and therefore they're going to be wrong for either Toronados--or--all other Olds applications. MSD, a respected brand, does not sell a red/white HEI in-cap coil as of 30 November '11, only the red/yellow versions. For engine families that do not have genuine Delco HEI parts support, I suppose the best you can do is to assure the pickup coil matches the ignition coil--either both coils should be "yellow" codes, or both should NOT be yellow codes, either way. (and perhaps select parts based on which side of the engine the starter is mounted on.) Separate coil With the ignition coil out of the immediate neighborhood of the pickup coil, there is no need to match magnetic polarity. Separate coils are not color-coded. Pickup coils are still matched to the engine family as long as that engine family had a genuine Delco HEI during it's production life. Best "hot rodding" tricks 1. Replace the high-resistance carbon button under the in-cap coil with a low resistance button from MSD, Crane, Accel, or other sources. (I generally use the Crane button, based only on price.) The stock high-resistance buttons can get so hot that they melt the distributor cap. 2. If you don't want to deal with color coded ignition coils, an "in-cap" ignition coil can be easily replaced with an external ignition coil of your choice, a coil wire to suit, and a readily-available external-coil kit sold by MSD and others. 3. Adjust the centrifugal and vacuum advance curves to best suit your engine. There are adjustable vacuum advance units sold by Crane and others, or just buy a non-adjustable GM or aftermarket vacuum advance that is a good match for your application. Advance cans are sold with a multitude of different part numbers, relating to total advance and the stiffness of the internal spring that determines how fast the vacuum advance operates. It is possible to modify an OEM advance canister to limit the amount of advance it provides; a canister that provides 25 degrees of advance can have a sheetmetal tab welded/brazed/riveted into place to limit the advance to 12 degrees as shown in this photo:

Centrifugal advance kits are sold having springs, weights, and a center plate to adjust the centrifugal advance. In general, the weights in these kits are too light, and should be immediately thrown into the nearest recycle bin. The springs, and "perhaps" the center plate can be used to good effect. Keep in mind that GM supplied weights of different shapes and sizes, and that the center plate has as much effect as the weights and springs in determining the advance curve--but I do not know of any source still selling an assortment of center plates. Grab 'em from the salvage yard, or fabricate them yourself. (good luck!) I have seen excessive "hidden" centrifugal advance. That is, you may think you have a normal, proper centrifugal advance, and that it stops advancing at or around 2500--3000 rpm. But if you rev higher, it will begin advancing again at 4000-4500 rpm. That "hidden" advance--perhaps an additional 5--10 degrees--at best will reduce performance and perhaps cause ping--at worst it will destroy your engine. I have seen this on EVERY GM center plate I've checked when the weights are acting on the gently rounded part of the center plate. If you flip the center plate upside down, so the weights act on the dogleg curve part, the advance will positively stop at a given RPM

dependant on the weights and the shape of the center plate. The numbers stamped into the center plate may face up or face down. Either way "can" be correct, depending on the direction of rotation of the distributor. 4. Assure that the module you are using is at least as good as the stock GM/Delco units supplied since the later '70's. Very early GM modules had problems, but since they're about thirty years old now, there probably aren't too many survivors. GM soon updated the module and it is now quite reliable for performance use. Many aftermarket modules-especially the ones sold based on low price--are inferior. I'd be suspicious of any module that didn't have a wellrespected brand name. Delco; Echlin's quality line; and Standard/Blue Streak should all be just fine. There is an "urban legend" about how the HEI doesn't function properly after 4,000 or 4,500 RPM. Not true, provided you have a Delco or better module. 5. HEI distributors are not that tough to rebuild. The worst part would be installing new bushings, if they were needed.

I would rather have a rebuilt (or even a "good used") DELCO HEI than a brand-new Communist-China derived knockoff copy,provided that Delco made a housing to fit the intended engine.
6. GM considered the original '74--'75 HEI to be a "50,000 volt" device. The higher power that the HEI is capable of was the reason for the wider spacing of the spark plug terminals on the cap. So if the aftermarket discount hot-rod parts seller is telling you how great his "50,000 volt coil" is, you can be pretty much assured that it's not one bit better than what GM installed as standard equipment on eleventy-billion cars and trucks over the years. FACT: You will NOT get any more voltage than what it takes to fire the plug. If the plug fires at 8,000 volts, that is all the coil will produce--even if it's sold as a super-gee-whiz performance-car coil. 7. The thin pickup coil lead wires have had a history of failure due to the motion of the vacuum advance. The problem often starts showing itself as the engine dying, then running, then dying, then running, etc. When the vacuum advance moves the pickup coil to a certain position, the broken conductor inside the insulation of the wire disconnects, and the engine dies. When the engine dies, vacuum is reduced, the vacuum advance relaxes--and the broken wire re-connects and the engine runs again.

V2.2 PCB:

Topside view of V2.2 pcb (these are green pcb's)

The V2.2 PCB has 4 spare connectors (X11 to X14) these can be used for various inputs and outputs for the following circuits as they are conveniently available on the 37pin DB connector: X11 = pin 25 of 37pin db X12 = pin 27 of 37pin db X13 = pin 29 of 37pin db X14 = pin 31 of 37pin db V3.0 PCB:

The V3.0 PCB has 4 spare connectors (SPR1 to 4) these can be used for various inputs and outputs for the following circuits as they are conveniently available on the 37pin DB connector: SPR1 = Pin3 of 37pin db SPR2 = Pin4 of 37pin db SPR3 = Pin5 of 37pin db SPR4 = Pin6 of 37pin db V3.57 PCB As can be seen, theres no proto area on the V3.57 and the components are very small. So soldering wires onto the board for spark outputs, hardware options, etc, is going to need a great deal of care. You may even have to remove some parts, which is not easily done to surface mount components, so I don't feel these manuals should cover doing this, as damage is very easy to do. Also a daughter board will need to be built if you want some of the hardware options as theres no proto area to build on. I have therefore assumed if you bought a V3.57 that you will not be modifying it to use the hardware functions such as Tacho out, PWM Idle valves, Boost control, Launch input, etc, etc. If you do wish to use these then you will have to build a daughter board of some form to

mount the components on. If you use more than 2 spark outputs youll need to use the db15 connector, but ensure you strengthen the traces on the board with copper wire or solder to the pin directly, also connect the outputs in pairs of pins, as per the instructions HERE. Note that the JS0 - JS11 pads are all electrically the same as the V3.0 PCB as are the SPR1 - 4 pads, so they can be used in the same way as the V3.0 PCB. The addition is JS12 which is the same as the bottom of R1 on the V3.0 pcb, but R1 will still need to be removed to use it on the V3.57, so be very very carefull !!!

Suggested points for Supplies inside the V3.0 ECU

Component Pinouts

Pull up circuit diagram

List of component part numbers used in the ignition section:

DigiKey part numbers: Farnell part numbers

2N2222A = 497-2598-5-ND 1N4001 = 1N4001/4GICTND 1K resistor = 1.0KQBK-ND 470R resistor = 470QBKND 2K resistor = 2.0KQBK-NB 330R resistor = 330QBKND 680R resistor = 680QBKND 200R resistor = 200QBKND 270R resistor = 270QBKND 1K5 resistor = 1.5KQBKND 4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBKND 0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND 4N25 (opto) = 4N25ASHORT-ND

2N2222A = 920-7120 1N4001 = 352-5326 1K resistor = 509-164 470R resistor = 543-305 2K resistor = 543-457 330R resistor = 543-263 680R resistor = 543-342 200R resistor = 543-214 270R resistor = 543-240 1K5 resistor = 543-421 4K7 resistor = 543-548 0.01uF Cap = 389-0995 4N25 (opto) = 102-1090

Please note: Above part numbers will need checking, some components will come with a minimum order in multiples of 5 and 10.

Megasquirt and Spark (MSnS)

More specific details on MSnS setups (Distributor based)

Ensure only LED17 (D14) is set as a spark output (Spark OutputA) there must be NO other Spark Outputs selected!!! This mode is for use with a single coil distributor allowing you to control your timing if you have a single coil firing through a distributor, an MSD 6A amplifier, etc. Your tach signal into the Megasquirt can come from a crank trigger or from a "locked" distributor (dizzy) using hall, points, inductive VR or opto sensors. This mode requires ONE Trigger per Spark Event, e.g. 2 pulses from a crank on a 4cy or 4 pulses from the disrtibutor on a 4cy (distributor runs at half the speed of the crank) , 4 pulses from the crank on a V8 or 8 from the distributor on a V8, etc. If your engine has a toothed wheel (e.g. a 60-2, 24/2, 36-1, etc) then you must NOT use MSnS mode, setup the WHEEL DECODER MODE instead, and select SparkA as the only spark output whilst using the distributor. A locked distributor is one that has mechanical and vacuum advance either removed or "locked" out so that the trigger signal occurs at the same crankshaft angle at all rpms. Many distributor cars with EFI already have a locked distributor. Crank triggering provides a more stable advance as there is no timing chain or belt and distributor gear jitter. For a four cylinder engine you would require two pips/lobes or bolt heads (giving 2 signal pulses) at 180 degrees to each other and a VR / hall sensor, for a 6cy you will need 3 pulses per crank revolution at 120deg intervals and 4 for a V8 at 90deg intervals. (note that a crank rotates at half the speed of the cam drive). The V3 circuit board can directly read from a VR sensor. The V3 board also provides a VB921 high current driver that will drive your single coil directly, this means you dont need an amplifier/dwell controller. If you use a crank trigger you do not need to modify your distributor. Just make sure that the internal rotor points towards one of the towers when the engine is roughly in the firing angle - if it is halfway you can easily get cross-firing between cylinders. Below is a general layout drawing of the V3.0 MS ECU and trigger sensor with the coil.

IMPORTANT - do NOT set your total Trigger Angle (i.e. Trigger Angle plus additions) inbetween the range 20 to 50 degrees as you will encounter problems and be unable to get your desired advance. If this is the Trigger Angle you calculate then you either need to move your crank sensor/wheel or modify your distributor to obtain a compatible trigger angle. This is due to the way the ECU calculates the spark timing, the calculations need around a 5deg band from the Trigger Angle. e.g. If you set a Trigger Angle of 23 degrees (no additions) then your maximum advance would be about 18degrees which will almost certainly give you a very lame engine down on power. If the Trigger Angle setting is less than 15 deg the code will use "Next Cylinder" sparking, which means it will work out the timing for the next spark rather than the current spark, this is perfectly acceptable. Please note: VR sensor users must use "Time Based cranking" when in MSnS mode, this is in the Spark Settings page.

Hall sensor users can take advantage of "Trigger Return" In this mode the trigger should be active (5V - 12V) at least 5-10 degrees before maximum advance and stay active until 5-0 degrees BTDC. The trigger going low (0V) sets off the spark when cranking. This will give accurate advance during the uneven cranking period. The middle LED (LED18 - D15) on the front panel (When set to "IRQ TRIGGER" in the Codebase and Output functions) shows the current status of the trigger to make it easier to adjust the distributor, or whatever triggers the MS. LED on = trigger high, LED off = trigger low. This LED is only of real use for hall sensors and needs to be configured in Megatune. On "Codebase and Outputs function" set LED18 (D15) to IRQ trigger.

Hall sensor in Distributor setup How you should connect a Hall sensor to the Megasquirt all depends on what comes out of the Hall sensor. 1)Turn the engine until cylinder 1 is at approx 25 Deg BTDC. 2)Turn the distributor until the rotor points in the middle of the contact for cylinder 1 in the distributor cap. Sometimes you may need to "re-phase" your distributor to change the angular relationship between the rotor arm and the vanes if using a trigger inside it. 3)Make sure one of the metal finger edges are close to the Hall sensor if using the distributor sensor to fire the MS, if your using a crank sensor then ensure this is near an edge of one of the lugs of the crank wheel. Confirm the crankshaft angle - either using timing tape or by estimating. For correct code operation you need a vane edge either in the distributor or on the crank if using a crank sensor, to pass the trigger when the engine is at 60-90BTDC OR 5-15BTDC. If it passes at 16-50BTDC you MUST re-phase you distributor or move the crank sensor round or you will be unable to set your advance correctly. If modification is required, typically set the vane edge to pass the sensor when the engine is at 60BTDC and have the rotor arm pointing directly to the tower when the engine is at 25BTDC. Turn the engine backwards until the edge is well out of the Hall sensor. Measure the output voltage from the Hall sensor Turn the engine forward until the edge has passed through the Hall sensor. Measure the output voltage. If both voltages are low, attach a 1K pullup resistor (see HERE for a pullup diagram) to the output wire of the hall sensor. Test again. For a V3 PCB connect the input as the Hall Sensor Input diagram (see HERE) For a V2.2 PCB : If the output goes from high to low you should use the Hi to Lo schematic HERE If the output goes from low to high you should use the Lo to Hi schematic HERE

A distributor is needed with the MSnS mode to distribute the spark the correct cylinder, since it only has one ignition output. If the distributor is used to trigger the ignition all advance mechanisms have to be locked. The distributor may have to be modified to ensure that the spark is delivered to the correct cylinder. The only important thing is that the rotor arm points to the correct contact in the distributor cap. The best bet is to get the rotor arm line up to a contact at about 25 degrees before TDC. It is not important to get exactly this angle, some 10 degrees before or after will be probably be OK, as long there is no risk for cross fire (spark on wrong cylinder) Setup - Hall sensor First, in Megatune in the Codebase and outputs function, set LED18 to "irq trigger" and send to ECU. 1) Set the crank at TDC 2) Rotate the distributor (opposite direction) just until middle LED turns OFF (sets the crank angle) 3) Make sure the rotor arm points towards the correct contact in the distributor cap 4) Fix the distributor 5) Turn engine backwards until middle LED turns ON (should be almost immediately) and continue turning until it turns OFF again 6) Measure angle BTDC (+/- 10 degrees is good enough) at the crank 7) Enter measured angle in "Trigger angle" 8) Enter "Fixed angle" to 10 degrees 9) Start the engine 10) Adjust "Trigger angle" until the timing light is at 10 degrees 11) Set "Fixed angle" to -10 12) Start tuning Setup - VR sensor 1) Set the crank at 20BTDC 3) Make sure the rotor arm points towards the correct contact in the distributor cap 4) Bolt down the distributor 5) Turn engine backwards until the pip lines up with the VR sensor 6) Measure angle BTDC (+/- 10 degrees is good enough) at the crank 7) Enter measured angle in "Trigger angle" of Spark Settings 8) Enter "Fixed angle" to 10 degrees this tells the ECU to ignore the spark map and hold it to the Fixed Angle. 9) Start the engine 10) Adjust "Trigger angle" until the timing light is at 10 degrees 11) Set "Fixed angle" to -10 , this tells the ECU to run from the spark map again. 12) Start tuning Here is a list of links to a superb section on Distributor based setups, showing more detail that the above.

MS Connections Distributor Points, Fuel only Distributor Points with spark After Market Electronic Ignition
MS v2.2 MS v3.0
MS v2.2 MS v3.0

MegaTune Settings*
MS v2.2, MS v3.0 MS v2.2, MS v3.0 MS v2.2, MS v3.0

MS v2.2 MS v3.0

Crane XR700 (Optical Trigger) Malory Unilite (optical trigger)

MS v2.2 LED17 spark MS v2.2 LED17 spark MS v2.2 FIdle spark MS v2.2 FIdle spark MS v3.0
MS v2.2 MS v3.0

MS v3.0
MS v2.2, MS v3.0

Nissan KA24E and a KA24DE (optical trigger) Toyota VAST distributor (~1985-1993) (VR conditioned trigger) Setting up the distributor (Next Cylinder mode)

MS v2.2 MS v3.0

MS v2.2, MS v3.0

Overview MS v2.2 MS v3.0

Setup/Install

MS v2.2, MS v3.0

Settings

*All of the above MegaTune settings are for Next Cylinder Mode. See below for an explanation of Next/This
cylinder mode

Neon / 420A Decoder

Wiring for the Neon / 420A Decoder -- Setting the Software for Neon/420A Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth The "Neon/420A" mode theoretically supports the following vehicles when equipped with a 2.0 or 2.4 4cylinder Chrysler engine. "NS" body models: 1996-2000 Chrysler Town and Country 1996-2000 Dodge Caravan/Grand Caravan 1996-2000 Plymouth Voyager/Grand Voyager "JA" body models: 1995-02 Chrysler Cirrus 1995-02 Dodge Stratus 1996-2000 Plymouth Breeze "JX" body models: 1996-02 Chrysler Sebring Convertible "PL" body models: 1995-02 Dodge Neon 1995-2001 Plymouth Neon "PT" body models: 01-02 Chrysler PT Cruiser "FJ" body models: 1995-02 Chrysler Sebring Coupe 1995-2000 Dodge Avenger Wiring for the Neon / 420A Decoder Circuit Diagram for V3.0 PCB: Wire the Megasquirts ECU's input section up as per this diagram in the input wiring section:

Wire the Output Section like this: Remove, if fitted, link between IGN and IGBTOUT

Circuit Diagram for V2.2 PCB: Wire the Megasquirts ECU's input section up as per this diagram in the input wiring section:

Wire the Output Section like this:

Diagram for V2.2 and V3.0 wiring: Next wire 2 x HEI 4 Pin Modules like this:

The wiring diagram attached shows the general wiring for a V2.2 or a V3.0 PCB Megasquirt, when installed on a 420A equipped Mitsubishi Eclipse / Eagle Talon.

Setting the Software for Neon/420A In Codebase and Output functions ensire that NEON/420A is the only ignition option selected and that LED17 and LED19 are the ONLY 2 Spark outputs!!

Wheel Decoder System

Coil On Plug (COP) -- Where to mount the sensor and wheel -- Megasquirt hardware mods for 2 rotor with the NipponDenso -- Software Settings Second Trigger Sensor Input

The wheel decoder allows the use of a multi-toothed trigger wheel such as 36-1 (commonly fitted to Fords), 60-2 (used mainly by Bosch and therefore very widespread in Europe.) See www.trigger-wheels.com for a supplier of custom made wheels. Other custom wheels such as 6-1 or 4-1 also work. Also supported are dual wheels such as the 24/2 wheels seen on Mazdas and Toyotas. These have two wheels, one with 24 evenly spaced teeth and a second pair of teeth with a second sensor. (See the Second Sensor Input Section HERE) The code supports: Fuel only Single coil (distributor based setup) Wasted spark with multiple coils It can also support coil per plug in some installs. For wasted spark you require a minimum of single "missing tooth" crank wheel, only engines with an even number of cylinders being supported. You need at least 4-1 for 4cyl, 6-1 for 6cyl or 8-1 for 8cyl. However, the 36-1 wheel is probably the easiest to obtain. The MS ECU can drive up to 6 seperate spark outputs, meaning it can run up to a 12 cylinder in wasted spark mode. (4cy, 6cy, 8cy 10cy and a 12cy) Coil per plug can be achieved with a crank wheel and single-tooth cam wheel OR a dual wheel cam setup OR a missing-tooth cam-wheel alone. For a distributor based setup with a trigger wheel, simply follow all of the wheel decoder instructions but rather than setting SparkB, C, etc as outputs (as in a wasted spark setup) only set LED17 as SparkA output and ensure all other spark outs are NOT set: LED17 (D14) = SparkA LED18, LED19, Output3/SparkD, pin10 shift and knockin must NOT be a Spark output The easiest install will be wasted spark using VB921 FET's to drive the spark coil(s) directly from a V3.0 PCB. (See the Spark Output selections available HERE) In this way it can be used like EDIS but without the need for an EDIS module, it has the advantage of allowing spark cut rev limiting. The downside is that it is more difficult than EDIS and requires extra software settings. If you are buying a pre-assembled Megasquirt (e.g. www.ExtraEFI.co.uk) your vendor will be able to do this for you. The wheel decoder is a very powerful front end on top of the MSnS spark code that allows generic crank/cam angle wheels and vr sensors to be used with the Megasquirt for tach triggering, and ignition. Before setting up the wheel decoder, several questions should be asked: 1) How many cylinders (or rotors?) this will tell you how often you get a firing event, and help with setup later. 8 cyl: 90 deg between firing 6 cyl/3 rotor: 120 deg between firing 4 cyl/2 rotor: 180 deg between firing 2) Where is your wheel going to be mounted, camshaft or crankshaft? This matters because the camshaft turns half a revolution for every crank revolution. This will also help determine how to set things up later. 3) Are you going to use a wheel with a missing tooth or a Cam Angle Sensor which actually has 2 wheels and 2 VR sensors. 4) Finally, how many teeth does your wheel(s) have? 5) When does the missing tooth (teeth) pass the sensor with respects to TDC or what tooth does the sensor see when the engine is at TDC? When you have all this information, you're at least ready to start.

Where to mount the sensor and wheel Lets asume your going to change a distributor based setup over to a wasted spark coil pack setup. The changes needed will be different for each engine but the basics should be the same: A wheel will need to be fitted on the crank pulley, a VR sensor will need to be mounted to detect the wheel and a set of coil packs will need to be mounted onto the car.

Typical trigger discs (36-1) from a Ford

VR

Sensor Mounting the wheel is quite critical in that it MUST be mounted so it rotates without moving up, down, left or right as the sensor needs to see all of the teeth with a gap of 0.75 - 1.0mm. The VR sensor can be found on vertually all Fords that have a coil pack under the bonnet, you'll need the coil pack too, so get them both at the same time, also keep the HT leads as the connectors will be needed. The VR sensor is usually mounted on the bell housing somewhere, depending on the engine. When fitting the wheel set the engine to Top Dead Centre (TDC) if you fit the sensor so it aligns with tooth 9, as the following diagram, then you can use the Trigger Wheel settings in the diagram, this is recommended for ease of setting up.

Set the Trigger Return Value to 60deg and Spark Inverted Output = YES in the Spark Settings Menu.

Megasquirt hardware mods for 2 rotor rotary engines with the NipponDenso 2 tooth/24 tooth cam angle sensor: 1) Solder some jumper wire to U4 (opto-isolator) pin 6. 2) Solder some jumper wire to CPU pin 11 3) build a dual lm1815 or dual v3 vr conditioner circuit. (covered elsewhere). 4) Wire the output of one of the vr conditioners to the jumper wire soldered to U4 pin 6, and wire the other VR sensor output through a 1k resistor to the cpu pin 11 jumper wire. 5) Connect the 24 tooth VR sensor positive lead to the VR+ input of whichever circuit is connected to U4 pin 6, connect the other VR sensor positive lead to the other conditioner circuit. At this point, we're ready to talk about VR sensor alignment, etc... Since we're on a 4 cylinder/2 rotor engine, and we're using a CAM angle sensor, which moves half the speed of the crank, we really have what looks like a 12+1 wheel to the megasquirt. So what we want to do is figure out what advance the engine likes when it's starting. For rotaries... 0, or even -5 degrees is good, I think most 4 cylinders should work well with 10 deg. This will help us determine our trigger angle: We want our first trigger to be the tooth directly after the second wheel's tooth passes by the VR sensor; that tooth will be labled "tooth 1". For a rotary, we want a max advance of maybe 40 deg BTDC at high revs and low kPa, and we want a cranking angle of 0 degrees. On a 12 tooth wheel, each tooth represents 30 degrees of crank rotation. Since we want a maximum advance of 40 degrees, a good value for the trigger angle would be 50 degrees. However, if we count the next two teeth over, we get 20 degrees, and -10 degrees. This won't work for our cranking angle, so we set the trigger angle to 60 degrees BTDC, so the next two teeth are 30 degrees and 0 degrees.

With this configuration, in the wheel decoder settings you'd want the following settings: Trigger A: 1 (60 deg BTDC) Trigger A Return: 3 (0 Deg for rotor 1) Trigger B: 7 (180 degrees from trigger 1, or 90 degrees on the cam angle sensor, 60 deg btdc for rotor 2) Trigger B Return: 9 (0 degrees for rotor 2). In the Spark Settings menu, you'd set Trigger Angle to 60 degrees, Crank mode to Trigger return, and so that we can set the timing on our 13B rotary, set Fixed Angle to -5 (the location of the timing mark on the crank pulley). You will have to wire your chosen ignitor to the megasquirt. Instructions to do this using LEDs can be found elsewhere. Now it's time to get out the timing light, and stab the Cam angle sensor into the engine. 1) turn the engine over by hand and get the timing mark on the crank pulley to line up... so we're setting the engine to -5 degrees (5 ATDC). 2) turn the CAS (Crank/Cam Angle Sensor) so that tooth #3 on the 24 tooth wheel lines up exactly with the VR sensor. Keep in mind that on this configuration, there are 2 "tooth #3's," and either of them is fine. 3) now push the CAS into the engine, being careful to keep tooth 3 lined up with the VR sensor. Once you get the CAS in, double check that it's lined up. 4) Make sure your ignitor is hooked up, your CAS is hooked up to the vr sensor conditioner you built, and make sure the megasquirt can output to your ignitor/coil(s). 5) Assuming your car ran before you did all this, you should be able to start the car now. You may want to test that the megasquirt is getting a signal by seeing if megatune displays rpms while cranking. I did this by disconnecting the ignitor, then cranking. 6) Assuming your car started, and is now idling, and you're not using the CLT/IAT advance/retard feature (Set it to OFF), you can set the timing properly now using a timing light. Since you set the Fixed Angle to -5, the the megasquirt thinks it's firing the sparks at 5 deg ATDC, which is where the mark on the crank is for our engine (13B rotary). hook up the timing light to the cyl 1 (or a leading coil wire for rotaries) spark plug wire, and look at the timing. Adjust the CAS until the light shows that the mark lines up the way it's supposed to... and your timing is SET. Now what the megasquirt displays for timing really is the timing. 7) Go back to your megasquirt Spark settings, and set "Fixed Angle" to "-10," which will cause the megasquirt to use the values you entered into your spark map (you did do that right?). Wheel Decoder MegaTune Settings Simple crank triggers such as 4-1 or 6-1 can also be used but the easiest way to get a wasted spark ignition setup from a distributor single coil setup is to fit a Ford 36-1 wheel onto the crank and use this code setting and directly drive a set of Ford coil packs. With this option you need to set up the "Wheel Decoder Settings", this means you need to know where the first missing tooth passes the sensor with respects to the timing, or what tooth the sensor is detecting when the timing is at TDC. We have designed this excel file to help you figure out the required settings, click on the image to download the file.

Please note the teeth are counted when the ECU detects the first gap, (this gap is tooth Zero) the first tooth on a -1 setup (or second gap on a 60-2 wheel) is tooth 1, etc. The last tooth would therefore be 35 on a 36-1 or 59 on a 60-2. When using a wheel with no missing teeth and a second trigger input the next tooth on the main toothed wheel after the second trigger is defined as tooth 1. The MS ECU can NOT trigger on a missing tooth, so you must ensure that all of the used Trigger Position Teeth as set in "Wheel Decoder Settings" are NOT set to ZERO, if they are then you may have to alter the Trigger Angle a little to select another tooth. However all of the UNUSED Trigger Position Teeth MUST be set to ZERO! Please also note that you can only use one tooth per trigger position, so you CANNOT have the same number in the Wheel Decoder Settings twice!! Working examples: Vehicle: Kia Rio Engine: A6D 1.6L DOHC 16v 4cyl (A5D, 1.5L is identical setup wise) Setup: 60-2 on flywheel, oem hall sensor in bellhousing Trigger Angle: 67 Trigger Position A: 10 Trigger Return A: 18 Trigger Position B: 40 Trigger Return B: 48 2x VB921 IGBTs off LED17 and LED19, running dwell 4.0ms, cranking 6.0ms, on oem waste spark coils. NOTE: Cyl 1,4 on LED19, Cyl 2,3 on LED17. Trigger angle actually corresponds to TDC Cyl 3 i suspect other Kia models to be the same, at least those with the Siemens/Infineon ecu, which is a ripoff of the Bosch Motronic. All the OEM sensors are "License Bosch" stamped right on them. Thanks to sportage4x4

Car: Peugeot 405 1990 Engine: 1.9 litre, 4-cyl, 8 valve, XU9JAZ. appllies to any other XU5 or XU9 (including the 16v) series running Motronic or Magneti Marelli (Solex) G5, G6, 8P ECU. Older models fitted with dizzy cap delivering spark, later ones with wasted spark. Wheel type: 60-2 @ fly Sensor type: OEM vr sensor

Wheel alignment: Tooth number 20 is under the sensor when engine is @ TDC Wheel decoder setup: Trigger A=10 Trigger B=40 Spark settings: Trigger angle=60 Timebased cranking, advance 10 degrees Coil: Peugeot 405 wasted spark coil (Facet aftermarket part) Ignition module: Bosch 0 227 100 200 (Transpo aftermarket part) Dwell settings: 4.0ms running dwell 8.0ms cranking dwell 1.0ms min. spark time (dwell settings not scoped to optimum) Thanks to tvh 1990 NA rx7 (s5 2nd gen) 1308cc 2 rotors Trigger angle: 60 deg Crank mode: Trigger Return 12 tooth wheel using 2nd trigger Trig A: 1, Trig Return A: 3 Trig B: 7, Trig Return B: 9 Using the stock 2nd gen CAS as the wheel, with dual lm1815 vr sensor conditioner, and using the stock 2nd gen leading and trailing coils with ignitors. Using 2.6 ms dwell (stock ignitor increases this to a point based on RPM) Thanks to muythaibxr

EDIS8 replacement - working on Rover V8 36-1 wheel aligned the same as EDIS8 (see EDIS) Hand twisted pair cable from VR sensor to Megasquirt box routed well away from plug leads. trigger angle=60 Timebased cranking and 10deg cranking angle. trig A=35 trig B=8 trig C=17 trig D=26 Four VB921 to drive the coils and set LED17,LED18,LED19,output3 all as spark outputs. Spark output "inverted" Dwell control with 5ms cranking, 4ms running and a 0.1ms min discharge. Be sure to use code 025i6 or newer.

EDIS6 replacement 36-1 wheel aligned the same as EDIS6 (see EDIS) trigger angle=70 Timebased cranking and 10deg cranking angle. trig A=35 trig B=11 trig C=23 Use three VB921 to drive the coils and set LED17,LED18,LED19 as spark outputs. Spark output "inverted" Dwell control with 5ms cranking, 4ms running and a 0.1ms min discharge. EDIS4 replacement 36-1 wheel aligned the same as EDIS4 (see EDIS)

trigger angle=60 Timebased cranking and 10deg cranking angle. trig A=3 trig B=21 Use two VB921 to drive the coils and set LED17,LED19 as spark outputs. Spark output "inverted" Dwell control with 5ms cranking, 4ms running and a 0.1ms min discharge. Untested example Euro Ford Granada/Sierra DOHC. Internal 36-1 wheel and single coil / distributor This assumes the 36-1 wheel aligned the same as EDIS4 (see EDIS pages) trigger angle=60 Timebased cranking and 10deg cranking angle. trig A=3 trig B=21 Use one VB921 to drive the coil and set LED17 as spark output (only 1 spark out as only one coil). Spark output "inverted" Dwell control with 5ms cranking, 4ms running and a 0.1ms min discharge. The MS ECU can NOT trigger on a missing tooth, so you must ensure that all of the used Trigger Position Teeth as set in "Wheel Decoder Settings" are NOT set to ZERO, if they are then you may have to alter the Trigger Angle a little to select another tooth. However all of the UNUSED Trigger Position Teeth MUST be set to ZERO! The code acts as a front end ahead of the normal MegasquirtnSpark system. The first step the code takes is to find the missing tooth/teeth by comparing the time between IRQ (Interupt Request) pulses (trigger inputs). The missing tooth (-1 tooth) is found if the period is > 1.5* the previous, a -2 is found if the period is > 2.5* the previous. Once the code has syncronised to the missing tooth/teeth it then counts the other teeth. When the tooth number matches a predefined trigger position it executes the rest of the code. The first tooth or the second missing tooth detected after the first missing tooth is Tooth 1. The first missing tooth is tooth Zero. A second set of trigger values can be used to define "Trigger Return" positions that set the cranking timing.

The Trigger Return positions and the Cranking Angle work together and it is VERY important to understand how this works. It is usually set up for the cranking angle when there are enough teeth. So if you have a 36-1 or 60-2, etc, set the Trig Return tooth thats at 10deg BTDC, this is usually the firing angle at cranking. So in the example below tooth 18 and 48 would be aligned with the sensor at 12deg BTDC (this is as close as you can get to 10 on a 60-2). Next enter 12deg into the Cranking Angle, this is VERY important as it is used to work out the Dwell! If your fitted the wheel your self then ensure this angle is correct, if not alter it so it is, it may be 2-5deg out if you fitted the wheel, so alter the value. This should be easy enough to see or to work out using a timing light and crank the engine, if its sparking at 8deg then enter 8, etc! If you decide to not use Trigger Return (Timing Based) then set ALL Trig Return pos to ZERO, equally if you dont have enough teeth to do this (e.g. 4-1, 12-1, etc) set ALL the Trig Return Pos to ZERO and set Timing Based in Cranking Timing

Example setup for COP with cam wheel and non-missing tooth crank wheel. The cam wheel must have a single trigger per 720 degrees of the crank (360deg of the cam). The crank wheel must have at least half as many teeth as the number of cylinders. i.e. 2 on a 4cyl.

Another COP example, this time an autronic wheel retrofitted into a CAS (spins at cam speed). As this is a 4cyl there are four outer holes. The single hole is the 2nd trigger "reset" pulse.

Second VR Sensor Input for Wheel Decoder 2 Sensors on Crank or Cam Sensor (with 2 pulses per cam rev) example -- 2nd Sensor on Cam (with 1 pulse per cam rev) example The Second Input option is a variation of the multi-tooth or generic wheel for ignition timing input. Normally a multi-toothed wheel or generic has a missing or filled in tooth to provide a reference point. Where the timing wheel has all of its teeth, a second input every crankshaft revolution can provide the same timing capability as a missing or filled in tooth. The next tooth on the main toothed wheel after the second trigger is defined as tooth 1. All the other features and functions of the toothed wheel software is available, including wasted spark for distributor-less installations. For some instances of Nippondenso electrical systems, (Mazda and Toyota) the second input allows the use of the OEM distributor, cam position sensors without having to mechanically modify anything. These distributors have a 24 tooth wheel which rotates at half crankshaft speed. Either a single second pickup and wheel with 2 teeth, or two pick-ups with a single tooth can be used as a second input into MSnS. To use this feature you need to have an appropriate input signal conditioner for the main and second input, see the Second VR Sensor Input section HERE The main wheel connection is made the same way as you would for any other wheel or main tachometer input, see the VR Sensor Input Section HERE The second input is made with a duplicate conditioner and components to replicate the tachometer input but this is connected directly to Pin 11 of U1. Note as this pin is also an output in some configurations, it is strongly recommended you include a 1k resistor in series with Pin 11. This will protect both U1 and the VR conditioner from overloading each other if U1 Pin 11 is set as an output. A daughter-board will be required to mount these components with a flying wire soldered directly to Pin 11. (Underside of board)

Following Example is when the Second Sensor is on the CAM or Crank with 2 pulse per cam revolution (180deg apart) or 1 pulse on the Crank per revolution
(Primary sensor = Crank 60 teeth)

Codebase and Output Functions - Ensure only the Wheel Decoder - Generic Wheel option is set. This example is for a 4cy wasted spark so it has ONLY Spark A and Spark B set! Please see the Basic Config manual for more.

If directly driving your coils from the MS ECU then set dwell as:

Please note that these will need to be tuned, see the Dwell section of this manual.

Following Example is when the Second Sensor is on the CAM with 1pulse per cam revolution:
(Primary sensor = Crank 60 teeth)

Codebase and Output Functions - Ensure only the Wheel Decoder - Generic Wheel option is set. This example has Spark A, Spark B, Spark C and Spark D set! It could run a COP setup (4 cy) or a wasted spark 4cy. Please see the Basic Config manual for more.

Primary teeth = 60

Primary teeth = 4

If directly driving your coils from the MS ECU then set dwell as

: Please note that these will need to be tuned, see the Dwell section of this manual.

Ford EDIS Ignition System

Finding Edis in North America -- Finding Edis in Europe -- Internal Mods to the MS ECU -- Edis Wiring Diagrams -- MegaTune Settings

Fitting the VR Sensor and the 36-1 wheel Ford's Electronic Distributorless Ignition System (EDIS) is an ignition system that does NOT require a cam position signal. It can function with just a variable reluctor crank position sensor (VR sensor) and a 36-1 tooth wheel (36-1 means '36 teeth minus one', and refers to 36 evenly spaced teeth, one of which has been removed). Because it doesn't need a camshaft position sensor, EDIS is a particularly easy way to replace distributor ignitions when retrofitting older engines with a modern computer programmable ignition, but we now recommend directly driving the coil packs from the MS ECU using the VB921 FET's. This does away with the EDIS module, so all thats needed is the 36-1 wheel, a VR sensor and the coil packs. Please see the VR input Sensor wiring and the Direct Coil Drive Wiring section.

If you alread have an EDIS setup and want to use it then these are the mods for it: The EDIS system is made up of: EDIS module, crank wheel, crank variable reluctor sensor (VRS), and one or more coil pack(s).

Finding Edis 4 in North America:

Early to mid 1990s Ford Escort/ Mercury Tracer with base 1.9L SOHC engine were fitted with the EDIS4 system. You can tell the engine because it has a tubular aluminium (NOT cast) inlet manifold. The EDIS4 module is mounted just behind the fuse box on the drivers side of the engine bay, it has a label on the plug that says EDIS4. The bolts are 10mm AF. You are advised to remove the fuse box first for easier access. Cut off as much as the harness as you can. Looking toward the passenger side end of the engine, the VR sensor is above and to the left of the end of the crankshaft. The easiest way to access the sensor is to remove the front wheel (if it's not already removed), lie on your back, and reach up from the bottom to access the sensor mounting bolts. The bolts are either small metric or star bit. Once it's off, the cable is most easily cut from the top.

The crank pulley bolt is 19mm. You will need to stop engine from turning, various methods have been suggested. 1) remove the head, put some rocks into the bore and refit the head. 2) remove a spark plug and put a long bar down the hole 3) remove a plug from cylinder with piston at BTDC and coil in some rope, remove rope when finished.

Click on images for a larger picture

Finding Edis in Europe:

1a) EDIS4 module 1989-1993 Fiesta XR2i 1.6 1990-1992 Fiesta RS turbo 1989-1994 Escort 1.6i 1990-1994 Orion 1.6i Modules are all in the engine bay and typically located in the middle of the bulkhead or the right hand side as you face the car. Known part numbers are: 89FB-12K072-AC, 91AB-12K072-AA

Orion CVH MPI Mondeo with 1800/2000 engine.

Fiesta / crossflow Escort

Location of the VR sensor varies. On the small CVH engines it pokes through the rear flange of the engine towards the flywheel. 1.8CVH Sierra has one on the front. 2.0DOHC Sierra/ Granada is in the block at the left side way below the inlet manifold. Duratec V6 (Mondeo) is mounted near the front, it also has a cam sensor that works too. The mounting bolts are either small metric or star bit.

Escort / Fiesta location on engine flange above starter. Do not confuse with the ESC II hybrid module which has a vacuum tube and comes on the carb model cars. There is also an aluminium one to avoid as well.

Click to enlarge picture of plastic hybrid module to avoid. 1b) EDIS6 module up to 1995ish Mondeo V6 automatic Ford/Cosworth Granada Scorpio 24v V6 Module located rear left of engine bay as you face the car. Known part numbers are: 90GB-12K072-AB

1c) EDIS8 module Chances of finding one of these in a scrapyard are very low! Not known to have been installed on any European built vehicles. Your best bet is either to import a module from the USA or buy new. I would suggest buying the other bits locally. For connectors try one off another car if all the wires are in use or one off an ESC module. The number of wires used in the connector varies so check they are all there! There is a possibility of using 2 EDIS4 modules to drive a V8. But now that the MS ECU can directly drive 4 coils (V8 in wasted spark) this is no longer necassary. 2) 36-1 trigger disc The 1.8CVH Sierra has a useful disc pressed onto the back of the crank pulley All of the other CVH installs have the trigger teeth cut into the flywheel and so are useless. For a scrap yard trigger disc, remove from 1.8CVH Sierra. You will need to stop engine from turning, various methods have been suggested. 1) remove the head, put some old bolts or other junk into the bore and refit the head. 2) remove a spark plug and put a long bar down the hole 3) remove a plug from cylinder with piston at BTDC and coil in some rope, remove rope when finished 4) Jam something into the flywheel teeth

Sierra pulley/trigger assy and VR sensor

If you are after a pressed steel disc, try part no. 1078767, about 12 from Ford, this came on the 16v DOHC Granada engines, alternatively wheels are available to order from HERE 3) VR sensor Usually it is easiest to get from the same vehicle as the EDIS module so the loom wiring colours match. Or any vehicle with a trigger disc will yield one, so CVH Fiesta/Escort/Orion or Fiesta with Valentia (crossflow) engine with ESCII hybrid, DOHC Sierra/Granada, Mondeo. See HERE for more on VR sensors.

4) Coil pack/s Usually it is easiest to get from the same vehicle as the EDIS module so the loom wiring colours match. Also CVH Fiesta/Escort/Orion/Sierra or Fiesta with Valentia (crossflow) engine with ESCII hybrid, Zetec e.g. Mondeo. These 4cyl engines have 4 post coils. The V6 Mondeo has a 6 post coil. 8cyl applications use two 4 post coils. Carb Fiesta Valentia engines have the coil pack on the rear of the block. Mondeo Zetec have the coil pack beside the rocker cover. The HT leads are usually very short, but the ends can be removed with some lubricant and reused on new leads by re-crimping them with a pair of pliers. It can be handy to get 2 sets so you can practice a little first. Internal Mods to the MS ECU Input Mods for V3.0 PCB:

Output mods for V3.0 PCB:

V2.2 PCB ONLY

Edis Wiring Diagram

Edis Wiring for a V3.0PCB:

Edis Wiring for a V2.2 PCB:

Setting the Software for Edis

Ensure that the ONLY ignition option in Codebase and Output functions is EDIS and that LED17 is set as SparkA, NO other outputs must be set as a Spark Output.

Fitting the VR Sensor and the 36-1 wheel Assuming you have obtained a suitable 36-1 wheel, you need to establish the correct relationship between the VR sensor and disc. There are two methods to visualise the relationship with the same outcome. SPECIFIC-ANGLE is defined as follows: EDIS4=90, EDIS6=60, EDIS8=50

EITHER 1) Turn your engine to SPECIFIC-ANGLE degrees before TDC (check direction of rotation!). Mount the VR sensor wherever is convenient and mount trigger disc so that the centre of the sensor aligns with the centre of the missing tooth. OR 2) Set your engine at TDC, then put the missing tooth either 9, 6 or 5 (depending on no. cylinders) teeth in front of the sensor. (Count from missing tooth in opposite direction of rotation) This will put the centre of a tooth central to the sensor. i.e. EDIS4 = 9 teeth, EDIS6 = 6 teeth, EDIS8 = 5 teeth (Ensure you know the direction of rotation for your engine) Direction of rotation for this example is Anti-Clockwise for below

Direction of rotation for this example is Clockwise for below

There should be 0.75 - 1.0mm gap between sensor and wheel. To test this alignment it is best to run the EDIS in limp home mode. This can be achieved by disconnecting the SAW plug/socket or switching off/unplugging the ECU. Fit your strobe onto no.1 plug lead as normal (you may need to try the other tower of the pair). Ensure EDIS still has power and crank your engine, check that the timing is exactly 10deg. If not, adjust your sensor until it is. It is safe to idle the engine with the SAW lead disconnected, timing should be rock solid at 10BTDC. Don't forget to reconnect the plug when done! Optional: multi-spark mode NOTE: Multi-spark is currently under test with MSnS-extra firmware. 1) First get your engine running with multispark off, then: 2) Go to the Advanced >Advanced code options and set EDIS multispark on. Turn megasquirt off then on. 2) Check your timing with a strobe at low rpm (less than 1100.) 3) If the timing is locked to 10BTDC then the module is not compatible. 4) If the timing varies as expected (you can use Fixed on Spark>Spark Settings to set e.g. 5 or 15) then it is compatible. 5) If in doubt leave it switched off. 6) Advanced tester can experiment with the max rpm. The patent states 1100rpm.

Ford Thick Film Integrated IV Ignition Systems (TFI)

MS Input Wiring -- MS Output Wiring -- TFI Schematic -- MegaTune Settings The code is only designed for "push start" modules which are claimed to be grey in colour. Computer controlled dwell modules are black. Maybe this is USA only data because the Push Start module I used is mainly black. On a push start the START wire will run to the ignition switch. On a CCD that pin is IDM and will run to the ECU. ALPHA testers desired for CCD modules. Try as below but set to dwell control instead of 50% duty. Here is the pinout of a typical dizzy mounted module, consult you Haynes manual if necessary.

My suggestion to users is to get your car running fuel only before throwing timing into the mix. The TFI dizzy has a limp home 10deg mode so if the SPOUT wire is left unplugged it will continue to spark just fine. This way you will prove that you can idle with Megasquirt before adding timing control. Board Mods - input side The input side on the MS board is fairly straightforward, most boards will need no changes. For all boards you connect the TFI PIP wire to the Megasquirt TACH input which is DB37 pin 24. Input Mods: See also the TFI Output mods drawings HERE V3.0 PCB ONLY:

V2.2 PCB ONLY:

NOTE!! If you are using an aftermarket spark box like MSD you can skip the special circuit and use a regular "LED17" spark output. See the MSD Output Wiring under HERE. If you do this you must also configure your spark type as MSnS and NOT TFI in Codebase and Output Functions!!! When the code is set to TFI it expects you to use the TFI module to fire the coil and provide cranking spark.

When using the TFI module to drive the coil carry out the following: (NOT
V3.0 PCB ONLY:

for an MSD)

V2.2 PCB ONLY:

Wiring the TFI Module

Set the Codebase and Outputs page as follows:

Set the Trigger Angle to 10 degrees and spark output inverted to Yes. Set the Dwell to:

For more technical details of the Ford TFI system please see this document HERE.

GM 7pin HEI ignition

There were a number of different kinds of General Motors HEI modules:

* 4 pin module - electronic ignition, but doesn't do computer timing control, top left * 7 pin module (large) - electronic module that does timing control, used with coil-in-cap distributors, top right * 7 pin module (small) - electronic module that does timing control, used with some external coil distributors, bottom right * 8 pin module - electronic module that does timing control, used with most V8 external coil distributors, bottom left * 5 pin module - rare and not discussed here. not shown

Internal Mods for V3.0 PCB's HEI7/8 mode will use the Opto/Hall input, so the VR components are not required.

Internal Mods for V2.2 PCB's

Wiring the HEI module:

In Codebase and output Functions set the HEI Ignition option, set LED17 as SparkA out and LED19 as Spark B output.

In Spark Settings ensure "Trigger Angle" is set to 10 deg and Inverted Spark Output = NO. Set the dwell to:

GM DIS Ignition
GM DIS Wiring -- Saturn 1.9L DIS Wiring -- North Star Wiring

Most of the following explanation comes from "WopOnTour" - many thanks!! Please read his full description HERE 4cyl and 6cyl engines are essentially identical schematic. The only difference is the 3X shown (toggles voltage every 60 degrees) becomes a 2X (60/120) as the and the 4cyl DIS coil will toggle the reference voltage on every 3rd 60 degree increment (180 degrees) NOTE: This will NOT work for 2005 3.5L HV-V6 using the new "quick start" DIS (or any other up-integrated DIS that does not use a "Bypass" circuit) I also have concerns on the 87-88 VIN-D Quad 4 engine that (for whatever reason) has the 7X reluctor notches machined at TDC. So you may need to eliminate Bypass altogether and run "cranking EST" ALSO NOTE: Depending on the DIS module used you MAY have to bypass the Opto coupler within the MS directly connecting the IGN REF input at pin 24 to the opto output. V3.0 PCB mods:

V2.2 PCB mods:

Thumb nails, click to enlarge. *Note: The injection events shown every 120 degrees is just for startup on the stock GM ECM, after 400 rpm is achieved the simultaneous injection event occurs once per crankshaft revolution (or twice per cycle in MS terms)

Thumb nails, click to enlarge. You MAY want to make sure there is identical ground potential between the MS and the DIS module by connecting Pin F of the DIS module to the same engine ground point as your Megasquirt. GM DIS Wiring Wire the Megasquirt as the GM DIS wiring above, then wire the external as:

In Spark Settings ensure "Trigger Angle" is set to 45deg and the Trigger Angle Addition to +45 and Inverted Spark Output = YES or the advance will be about 120 degrees from desired. Then in Codebase and Output functions ensure LED17 is SparkA and LED19 is SparkB, set the Dwell to Fixed Duty - 50% Duty. Noted that advanced displayed in MegaTune DID NOT include approx 10 degrees of advance Saturn 1.9L DIS Wire the Megasquirt as the GM DIS wiring above, then wire the external as:

In Spark Settings ensure "Trigger Angle" is set to 45deg and the Trigger Angle Addition to +45 and Inverted Spark Output = YES or the advance will be about 120 degrees from desired. Then in Codebase and Output functions ensure LED17 is SparkA and LED19 is SparkB, set the Dwell to Fixed Duty - 50% Duty. Noted that advanced displayed in MegaTune DID NOT include approx 10 degrees of advance The 2 connector pinouts are as follows: Connector 1 (C1) PN#12084220 / 6-way but only 5 used A- IGN+ (fused) B- Not Connected C- EST (timing signal from MS) D- IGN REF (to MS TACH input) E- Tach (Optional) F- Bypass (5V applied by MS after engine start) * I recommend you always put an inline connector in the Bypass circuit so that you can easily drive the DIS to base timing fail-safe mode (Bypass)

Connector 2 (C2) PN#12084415 / 5-way A- CKP+ B- CKPC- CKP Shield (RF Gnd) D- REF LO E- GND Note: It's not mandatory to use Saturn Parts here. You can optionally use the DIS module and connectors from another "MSnS-E Compatible 4 cyl Engine".

North Star Should work for any Northstar WITHOUT coil on plug or on newer engines (not the VVT LH2) with the addition of an older DIS module and coil pack. THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED ON A RUNNING ENGINE YET SO THE TRIGGER ANGLES NECCESSARY TO GET 100% TIMING ACCURACY HAS YET TO BE CONFIRMED Below is the DIS waveform index for the Northstar and the DIS to MS wiring schematic

Click to enlarge

Buick Computer Controlled Coil Ignition (C3I)

Most of the following explanation comes from "WopOnTour" - many thanks!! I have been doing some extensive testing on the Buick 3800 Computer Controlled Coil Ignition (C3I) system for MSnS-E (Fidle as spark control) using my MS and a 2000 C3I mockup that I have. The scope waveforms and patterns look very promising.Here's what I have learned so far (although keep in mind this was done in a mockup state only and NOT on a running engine) NOTE: Depending on the C3I module used you MAY have to bypass the Opto coupler within the MS directly connecting the IGN REF input at pin 24 to the opto output. The best option is to post a thread on the MSEXTRA forum giving details of your setup before you start. In order to potentially run the C3I ignition as used by the 3800 with MSnS-E you will need to REROUTE the following signals from the C3I module to the MS: - connect the purple/white wire (C3I ignition module terminal D) to PIN24 of the DB37@Megasquirt. This C3I signal is commonly labeled "low resolution engine speed signal" is actually a digital 3X (ie transitioning every 120 degrees of crankshaft and) near identical to the old DIST REF but is synthesized by the C3I module from the 18X hall-effect input (18/6=3) *NOTE-This circuit was previously routed to the oe ECM. - connect the "IC Timing signal" (aka 5V Bypass) which is the Tan/Black wire at terminal B of the C3I ignition module to pin 27@DB37 of Megasquirt. *NOTE-This circuit was previously routed to the oe ECM.

- Finally the Electronic Spark Timing (IC timing control) a white wire at pin A of the C3I ignition module to the reconfigured LED17 @ Pin25 at the Megasquirt DB37 connector. *NOTE-This circuit was previously routed to the oe ECM. V3.0 PCB mods:

V2.2 PCB mods:

External Wiring for all MS PCB's:

Please Note: You MAY want to make sure there is identical ground potential between the MS and the C3I module by connecting Pin L of the C3I module to the same engine ground point as your Megasquirt. MOST of the remaining connections at the C3I ignition module MUST REMAIN connected as factory. These include IGN+ (terminal P), Ground (terminal K) and the circuits to the various hall-effect sensors (terminals

G,H,J,M and N) While all of these sensors are not necessary they do share a certain amount of circuitry (see schematic) and will facilitate future possible use of these signals (for possible enhancement through wheel decoding or maybe SFI on the MSII) The following circuits at the C3I ignition module that can be safely removed as they went to the OE ECM. (actually it's recommended that these circuits just be either "clipped" at the ignition module to maintain connector seal integrity or just insure they are properluy "dead-ended") So you can safely "clip the wires to IGN MODULE terminals C (Medium Resolution Engine Speed Signal) F (Camshaft Position Signal) and L (low reference) *The wire at E can also be clipped as AFAIK was never used anywhere. This should work for any Buick 3800 from 1988 to present

In Spark Settings ensure "Trigger Angle" is set to 70deg. Codebase and Output functions ensure LED17 is SparkA and LED19 is SparkB, set the Dwell to Fixed Duty - 50% Duty

5 Cylinder Engines (Audi, etc)

For distributor based engines then this is a straight forward MSnS setup see HERE, but for COP setups you will need 2 trigger inputs. Whilst it is possible to do it with a cam sensor, it is easiest to do it with 2 sensors, one on the crank and the other driven off the cam. The first sensor off the crank needs to be at least 5 teeth equally spaced, a 60-2 wheel would be best and shouldn't be too hard as most Audi's use these anyhow. The second sensor needs to pick up 1 pulse per cam revolution. This would need a second sensor input circuit wired to Pin11 of U1, the circuit would depend on the type of sensor used, but all circuits will need the opto-isolator between the sensor and Pin11 of U1. See HERE

Twin Cam 4G63 and 4G9 powered DSM (Eclipse / Talon / Lazer) Double Over Head Cam engines (DOHC)
V2.2 wiring mods -- V3.0 wiring mods -- External wiring diagram -- Megatune Settings These instructions are based on information from Jerry at DIYAutoTune.com and from Zainal Hasnan, many thanks to both of them. This is for 1st gen DSM with the 4G63 engine as well as the 4G9 series engine: 4G91 DOHC = 1.5 liter 4G92 DOHC = 1.6 liter 4G93 DOHC = 1.8 liter

There are two 'sets' or 'rings' of holes in the optical CAS. The outer ring of holes is read by an optical sensor and then sent to the ECU, this is referred to as the CKP signal. Likewise the inner ring with only one hole is also read by an optical sensor, sent to the ECU and is referred to as the CMP signal. Outer Ring - Crank Angle Sensor (RPM) - CKP Inner Ring - Top Dead Center Sensor - CMP The theory here is to drive the CKP as the main trigger input (pin24 of the db37) and the CMP as the second trigger input (pin11 of U1). You should be able to swap the 1G DSM 4G63 CAS assembly into the 2G DSM 4G63 and use these instructions as well. If not see the SOHC instructions HERE V2.2 PCB input wiring mods: For the CMP trigger input (Inner ring):

For the CKP trigger input (Outer ring):

V2.2 output wiring mods: (the following mods will trigger the stock ignitors. It is felt that it is easier to get running using the original ignitors so this is the recommended and tested method. But if you want to drive the coils directly rather than through the ignitors then please see the Direct Drive section, the Spark Inverted will then = YES!)

V3.0 PCB input wiring mods: For the CMP trigger input:

For the CKP sensor input:

V3.0 PCB Output wiring MODS: (the following mods will trigger the stock ignitors. It is felt that it is easier to get running using the original ignitors so this is the recommended and tested method. But if you want to drive the coils directly rather than through the ignitors then please see the Direct Drive section, the Spark Inverted will then = YES!)

External wiring diagram for 4G63 all board versions:

Settings for 4G63 all board versions:

(Please note: The Trigger Angle setting will need adjusting more accurately using a strobe and a Fixed Angle see HERE) (It is felt that it is easier to get running using the original ignitors so this is the recommended and tested method. But if you want to drive the coils directly rather than through the ignitors then please see the Direct Drive section, the Spark Inverted will then = YES!)

Mitsubishi and Proton distributor based engines, Single Over Head Cam (SOHC)
V2.2 wiring mods -- V3.0 wiring mods -- External wiring diagram -- Megatune Settings Thanks to Zainal Hasnan for the following information and pictures. The SOHC usually runs a distributor. These engine types are: Mitsubishi and Proton NA (They share the same engines) 4G13 1.3 liter sohc injection. 4G15 1.5 liter sohc injection 4G92 1.6 liter sohc injection 4G63 2.0 liter sohc injection There are 2 types of distributor that runs these engines:
Vanes type sensor. Windows type sensor

However, they only have 1 inner windows or vane for the tdc sensor. To run these without modifying it to the same spec as the 4G63 then it is best to use MSnS mode using the outer (4 vaned) sensor and keep the distributor. V2.2 PCB input wiring mods:

V2.2 output wiring mods: (the following mods will trigger the stock ignitors. It is felt that it is easier to get running using the original ignitors so this is the recommended and tested method. But if you want to drive the coils directly rather than through the ignitors then please see the Direct Drive section, the Spark Inverted will then = YES!)

V3.0 PCB input wiring mods:

V3.0 PCB Output wiring MODS: (the following mods will trigger the stock ignitors. It is felt that it is easier to get running using the original ignitors so this is the recommended and tested method. But if you want to drive the coils directly rather than through the ignitors then please see the Direct Drive section, the Spark Inverted will then = YES!)

External wiring diagram for SOHC distributor based 4G63 all board versions:

MegaTune Settings for SOHC distributor based 4G63 engines

(Please note: The Trigger Angle setting will need adjusting more accurately using a strobe and a Fixed Angle see HERE) (It is felt that it is easier to get running using the original ignitors so this is the recommended and tested method. But if you want to drive the coils directly rather than through the ignitors then please see the Direct Drive section, the Spark Inverted will then = YES!)

Rotary Engines
Mods for a 2 Rotor Mazda engine -- Mods for a 3 Rotor Mazda engine The rotary engine is obviously fundementally different to a normal 4 stroke engine, but it can still be controlled by the MS ECU running the MS1 Extra code as long as a few rules are followed. With a four stroke engine, in 720 of crank rotation it will draw in the equivalent amount of air as its rated displacement. But with a rotary engine in the same 720 it draws in twice its rated displacement. Therefore: If you have a 2 rotor (Mazda 13B) engine (1.3 L) it's really like a 2.6L 4 cyl 4 stroke engine. If you have a 3 rotor (Mazda 20B) engine (2.0L) , it's really like a 4L 6 cyl 4 stroke engine. The rotary engine has a leading and a trailing ignition (2 plugs per rotor) the leading fires first then the trailing fires a few degrees later. On a 2 rotor engine the leading can be fired in a wasted spark format, but on a 3 rotor engine the leading must be driven by 3 individual coils e.g. COP. Simply set the system up as a 6 cylinder engine running wasted spark, this will fire the 3 spark outputs (Spark A, B and C) every 360 deg of crank rotation. Please see the Rotary Trailing Setup HERE for more info before running your engine. For more setting details on the rotary engines please see HERE. 2 Rotor Mazda Engine (13b 1.3L) wiring diagrams: In order to use the BAC valve please see the hardware mods for the Idle valve HERE. V2.2 PCB internal mods: Input mods: The MS V2.2 ECU will need to have 2 VR conditioners (LM1815), the following circuit contains two (LM1815): This circuit's connections assume that the pcb will be mounted internally (inside the MS ECU's case) This can be mounted externally but the connections for Ne+ and G+ would connect directly to the conditioner rather than via the db37 connector.

DigiKey part numbers:

Farnell part numbers

1K resistor = 1.0KQBK-ND 300R resistor = 330QBKND 1K resistor = 509-164 18K resistor = 18KQBK300R resistor = 543-251 ND 18K resistor = 543-688 39K resistor = 39KQBK39K resistor = 543-767 ND 4K7 resistor = 543-548 4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBK82K resistor = 543-846 ND 1M resistor = 544-103 82K resistor = 82KQBK0.01uF Cap = 389-0995 ND 0.33uF Cap = 389-1033 1M resistor = 1MQBK-ND 330pF Cap = 867-950 0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND LM1815N = 949-3913 0.33uF Cap = P10973-ND 330pF Cap = PS1331J-ND LM1815N = LM1815N-ND
Please note: Above part numbers will need checking, some components will come with a minimum order in multiples of 5 and 10.

If fitting the above circuit external to the MS ECU then the Ne+ wire (24 tooth VR sensor positive lead) and the G+ wire (2 tooth VR sensor positive lead) on the CAS need to be wired directly to the above circuit: NoteA : Connect to Ne+ wire.

NoteB: Connect to G+ wire The VR sensor's grounds should ALL be grounded back to the board with the lm1815 on it. The output of U1 (above) on pin 12 should be wired to pin 6 of U4 on the megasquirt board. U4 is a six pin chip on the MS ECU board, the opto-isolator, this uses the output transistor within the opto as an inverter. The output of U2 (above) should be wired through a 1k resistor to pin 11 on the CPU. Output Mods for V2.2 PCB:

External wiring for V2.2 PCB:

V3.0 PCB internal mods: As the V3.0 PCB already has a built in VR conditioner then there's only the need to build one extra conditioner for the 2 toothed CAS signal. The following diagrams assume the conditioner will be mounted inside the MS ECU case.

DigiKey part numbers:

Farnell part numbers

1K resistor = 1.0KQBK-ND 300R resistor = 330QBKND 1K resistor = 509-164 18K resistor = 18KQBK- 300R resistor = 543-251 ND 18K resistor = 543-688 39K resistor = 39KQBK39K resistor = 543-767 ND 4K7 resistor = 543-548 4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBK1M resistor = 544-103 ND 0.01uF Cap = 389-0995 1M resistor = 1MQBK-ND 0.33uF Cap = 389-1033 0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND 330pF Cap = 867-950 0.33uF Cap = P10973-ND 0.1uF Cap = 389-1010 330pF Cap = PS1331J-ND LM1815N = 949-3913 0.1uF Cap = P10967-ND LM1815N = LM1815N-ND
Please note: Above part numbers will need checking, some components will come with a minimum order in multiples of 5 and 10.

You need to connect the output of the LM1815 (Pin 12) straight to U1 pin 11 via a 1K resistor. Wire the MS internally for a VR input, link TSEL to VROUTINV and link VRIN to TACHSELECT:

V3.0 PCB Output wiring:

External wiring for V3.0 PCB:

3 Rotor Mazda Engine (20B 2.0L) wiring diagrams:

I need some help here, anyone done a 3 rotor they can give me the info for ? If so please email me philip.ringwood(at)ntlworld.com
Toyota's VAST Setup
V3.0 Mods -- V2.2 Mods -- External Diagram -- MegaTune Settings V3.0 PCB Mods: Input Mods:

Output mods:

V2.2 PCB Mods: Input Mods:

Output Mods:

Toyota VAST External Drawings:

Toyota VAST Settings:

Trigger Input Wiring Diagrams:

Hall or Optical input sensors Wiring for V3.0 PCB -- Wiring for a V2.2 PCB How you should connect a Hall sensor to the MS ECU all depends on what comes out of the Hall sensor. Turn the engine until cylinder 1 should fire. Turn the distributor until the rotor point to the contact for cylinder 1 in the distributor cap. Make sure one of the metal finger edges are close to the Hall sensor, either going in or out will be fine.

Turn the engine backwards until the edge is well out of the Hall sensor. Measure the output voltage from the Hall sensor Turn the engine forward until the edge has passed through the Hall sensor. Measure the output voltage.

V3.0 PCB Wiring: High to low. For Hall Sensors that are Hi (+5V to 12V) when there is no tooth infront of the sensor and Lo (Gnd) when the edge of the tooth is infront of the sensor:

Low to High. For Hall Sensors that are Low (Gnd) when there is no tooth infront of the sensor and Hi (+5 to +12V) when the edge of the tooth is infront of the sensor

(This appears to be the most commonly used sensor from what I understand, so if in doubt try this one first)

Hall or Optical input sensor wiring for V2.2 PCB How you should connect a Hall sensor to the MS ECU all depends on what comes out of the Hall sensor. Turn the engine until cylinder 1 should fire. Turn the distributor until the rotor point to the contact for cylinder 1 in the distributor cap. Make sure one of the metal finger edges are close to the Hall sensor, either going in or out will be fine. Turn the engine backwards until the edge is well out of the Hall sensor. Measure the output voltage from the Hall sensor Turn the engine forward until the edge has passed through the Hall sensor. Measure the output voltage. Hi to Lo. For Hall Sensors that are Hi (+5V to 12V) when there is no tooth infront of the sensor and Lo (Gnd) when the edge of the tooth is infront of the sensor :

Lo to Hi. For Hall Sensors that are low (Gnd) when there is no tooth infront of the sensor and Hi (+5 to +12V) when the edge of the tooth is infront of the sensor When hall sensor output is 5V use:

Lo to Hi. For Hall Sensors that are low (Gnd) when there is no tooth infront of the sensor and Hi (+5 to +12V) when the edge of the tooth is infront of the sensor When hall sensor output is 12V use:

VR input Sensor V3.0 PCB Wiring -- V2.2 PCB Wiring Example of a Ford Variable Reluctance Sensor (VR Sensor), these are positioned so they detect the teeth on a crank wheel. When the edge of a tooth (piece of ferrous metal) passes them at high speed and at a very close proximity (Gap of 0.75 - 1.0mm) they generate a small signal.

The following diagram shows what happens when the VR jumpers on the V3.0 PCB or the VR sensor is wired incorrectly: (VR sensor ground signal wired to pin24, the sensors signal +ve wired to the screen and the VROUTINV linked to TSEL) or (VR sensors +ve signal wired to pin24 , the sensors ground wired to the screen and the VROUT linked to TSEL). The trigger points (where the signal goes through the line on the positive going slope) are shown in red. The time between the trigger points is consistant untill the missing tooth comes passed the sensor. The gap has increased a little (not fully) as the wave returns to the line but as it has to wait untill the next positively going slope the next gap is also decoded as another missing tooth.

This diagram shows the jumpers and the VR sensor wired correctly; (VR sensor +ve signal wired to pin24, the sensors ground wired to the screen and the VROUTINV linked to TSEL)

or (VR sensor ground signal wired to pin24 , the sensors +ve wired to ground and the VROUT linked to TSEL). This time the negative side of the slope is used as the trigger edge. This means that as the missing tooth passes the sensor it doesnt trigger the ECU untill the fall from the next tooth (Tooth 1).

VR Sensor Wiring for a V3.0 PCB

Adjust both the pots fully counter-clockwise (ccw) as a starting point, they don't physically stop turning, you will hear them click when they are fully one way. Generally the pots end up either fully ccw or a few turns clockwise from there. VR input Sensor wiring for a V2.2 PCB

V2.2 PCB ONLY

DigiKey part numbers: Farnell part numbers

300R resistor = 330QBKND 18K resistor = 18KQBK- 300R resistor = 543-251 ND 18K resistor = 543-688 39K resistor = 39KQBK39K resistor = 543-767 ND 4K7 resistor = 543-548 4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBK1M resistor = 544-103 ND 0.01uF Cap = 389-0995 1M resistor = 1MQBK-ND 0.33uF Cap = 389-1033 0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND 330pF Cap = 867-950 0.33uF Cap = P10973-ND 0.1uF Cap = 389-1010 330pF Cap = PS1331J-ND LM1815N = 949-3913 0.1uF Cap = P10967-ND LM1815N = LM1815N-ND

Please note: Above part numbers will need checking, some components will come with a minimum order in multiples of 5 and 10.

Second VR Sensor Input for a V2.2 and V3.0 PCB's This is the same circuit for a V2.2 and a V3.0 PCB when adding a second Variable Reluctor (VR) sensor. Another option is to build the VR conditioner from the V3.0 PCB. If you are using a second Hall sensor input then see HERE

DigiKey part numbers:

Farnell part numbers

1K resistor = 1.0KQBK-ND 300R resistor = 330QBKND 1K resistor = 509-164 18K resistor = 18KQBK- 300R resistor = 543-251 ND 18K resistor = 543-688 39K resistor = 39KQBK39K resistor = 543-767 ND 4K7 resistor = 543-548 4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBK1M resistor = 544-103 ND 0.01uF Cap = 389-0995 1M resistor = 1MQBK-ND 0.33uF Cap = 389-1033 0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND 330pF Cap = 867-950 0.33uF Cap = P10973-ND 0.1uF Cap = 389-1010 330pF Cap = PS1331J-ND LM1815N = 949-3913 0.1uF Cap = P10967-ND LM1815N = LM1815N-ND
Please note: Above part numbers will need checking, some components will come with a minimum order in multiples of 5 and 10.

Second Trigger Input for V2.2 and V3.0 PCB's Many Mazda and Toyota engines utilise Nippondenso ignition which uses a dual wheel crank angle sensor (CAS) which has one 24 tooth wheel and a 2 or single tooth second wheel. This is also needed to run a 5cylinder engine in COP mode it can also be used inventively to give 4 cyl COP or could be used with the dual pickup crank trigger from SDS for 4cyl wasted spark. For setting up Megatune see HERE . If using a VR sensor then see the Second VR Sensor Input section for your pcb version. Depending on what sensor you have depends on the input stage, but all sensors will need an opto isolator setup like this unless your using the VR conditioner circuit.

DigiKey part numbers:

Farnell part numbers

1K resistor = 1.0KQBK-ND 4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBK1K resistor = 509-164 ND 4K7 resistor = 543-548 0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND 0.01uF Cap = 389-0995 4N25 (opto) = 4N25 (opto) = 102-1090 4N25ASHORT-ND
Please note: Above part numbers will need checking, some components will come with a minimum order in multiples of 5 and 10.

Eliminating Cross Talk and Wiring Considerations for VR Sensors Each of these VR conditioners is a very high input impedance amplifier. The VR voltages may be reasonably high and the insulation thin or there may even be a common wire for more than one sensor. Where this occurs, cross talk may result in the signals due to capacitive or inductive coupling, Fortunately, the resistance and hence impedance of the VR coils may be quite low and they can produce reasonable signals into low impedance loads. Ensure you use a screened cable for te VR sensor's signal from the sensor all the way to the MS ECU,(2 core audio phono cable is sufficient) ground the screened core only at the end of the ECU (e.g. pin 7 or 8 of the DB37), leave the sensor end of the screen insulated. The signal below is a the output of 2 VR conditioners, one from each of the generic wheel (blue) and the second input (red). The cross talk is very noticeable and caused misfiring.

Tweaking the input resistor values as per the earlier version of the V3 VR conditioners in the circuits above, results in a much cleaner signal as shown below.

Using the pots can assist in setting the values of the load resistor, along with a bench testing facility for the VR sensors and trigger wheel. An Oscilloscope (or an adapter for the sound card of your PC with suitable software (eg Creative Wave Studio)) can greatly assist in fine tuning the input load resistors. Getting a good clean signal into MS is essential or you will spend hours trying to track down problems later on.

Luminition Optical Input for a V3.0 PCB NB. If using luminition (MSnS Mode) you will have to rephase your dizzy so that the trigger happens at say 60BTDC but the rotor is pointing to a tower at 20BTDC.

Luminition Optical Input for a V2.2 PCB NB. If using luminition (MSnS mode) you will have to rephase your dizzy so that the trigger happens at say 60BTDC but the rotor is pointing to a tower at 20BTDC.

Distributor points input for a V3.0 PCB NB. If using points (MSnS mode) you will have to rephase your dizzy so that the trigger happens at say 60BTDC but the rotor is pointing to a tower at 20BTDC.

Distributor points input for a V2.2 PCB NB. If using points (MSnS mode) you will have to rephase your dizzy so that the trigger happens at say 60BTDC but the rotor is pointing to a tower at 20BTDC.

Spark Output Wiring Diagrams.

MSD output wiring diagram for a V3.0 PCB Set Spark Inverted = YES in Spark Settings and Dwell Duty to Fix - 50% and LED17(D14) to SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions.

V3.0 PCB

MSD output wiring diagram for a V2.2 PCB Set Spark Inverted = YES in Spark Settings and Dwell Duty to Fix - 50% and LED17(D14) to SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions.

V2.2 PCB ONLY

Bosch Ignition Modules V3.0 PCB Wiring -- V2.2 PCB Wiring -- External Wiring all versions -- MegaTune Settings Please note this is no longer the prefered method, the Direct drive method is prefered. See HERE for V2.2 or HERE for V3.0 The Bosch module 0 227 100 137 / 0 227 100 139 is designed to be used with Hall effect and also takes care of the coil dwell period. The module trigger when pin 6 is grounded, but the dwell control prevents it sparking on the first trigger.

Pin 1 > (-) side of coil (is labelled "1" on the coil) Pin 2 > Good Ground Pin 3 > not used Pin 4 > Switched 12v* (eg from (+)side of coil, labelled "15" on the coil) Pin 5 > not used Pin 6 > Spark output from Megasquirt (Pin 36 for a V3.0 PCB or pin 25 (X11) for a V2.2 PCB) Pin 7 > not used. Not always present. *source needs to supply a constant 12v when the ignition is switched to "on" If you use this module make sure you get the coil too. Normally there should be a label on the coil saying it is for use in transistorized ignitions. If you are getting this part from the junkyard, be sure to check that you have the correct wiring pigtail - later (like early 1990s) pigtails have only 4 wires - you need the connector with 6 wires.

See HERE for a list of suitable modules, etc. Bosch Ignition Module Wiring for a V3.0 PCB

Bosch Ignition Module Wiring for a V2.2 PCB

Bosch Ignition External Wiring for all versions

In MegaTune set the Codebase and Output Functions as:

Single Coil Direct Drive Output for a V3.0 PCB These instructions are only suitable for single and twin spark outputs, for more than 2 sparks see the mutiple output section

Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!!
Single Coil Direct Drive Output for a V2.2 PCB It is recommended that V2.2 users fit a 15 or 25 pin db connector onto the case of the MS ECU. The reason is that the spare connectors on the V2.2 are not really capable of driving the current required for a coil unless you double them up (e.g. X11 and X12 as the ground X13 and X14 as the source). This is only suitable for a single VB921, if running more than one then see HERE.

Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!!

Two Coils Direct Drive Output for a V3.0 PCB When running 2 coils directly from the ECU it is highly recommended you fit an extra copper cable (a peice of wire snipped from the leg of a diode or the like is fine) from the Spare terminal you are going to use (e.g. SRP4) to its terminal directly on the 37pin connector, (e.g. SPR4 to Pin 6), this is because the copper trace for the SPR connectors are designed for small signals voltages and not coil driver currents. This means you'll have to lift the MAP sensor up (unbolt it first :o) ). Also ensure the main earth lead is thick enough to cope, I use a 4mm cable connected to pins 8 and 9 of the DB37 connector (this is probably an over kill, but 0.75mm wire isn't good enough). Start by wiring in the first VB921 as the single instructions (HERE) The second VB921 can then be wired like this: (Please Note: I have assumed that R37 and R38 are not installed on this diagram, these need to be removed and linked out with a peice of copper wire. Alternatively keep R37 and R38 in place and bolt the new VB921 onto the lid of the MS ECU) As a side note I generally mount the TIP122 Idle control FET in position R37 and the second VB921 as shown in position R38:

Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output and LED19 as SparkB output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!!
External wiring diagram for a V3.0 PCB (2 coil drivers):

Two or more Coils Direct Drive Output for a V2.2 PCB It is recommended that V2.2 users fit a 15 or 25 pin db connector onto the case of the MS ECU as the spare output traces on the pcb (X11, etc) are not up to driving a coil as they are too thin and will proably break. Using the following diagram would mean removing the LED's from the pcb, simply remove them and do nothing else to the holes they leave.

Remember you only need to fit the same amount of VB921's as you require outputs. e.g. 2 x VB921's (Spark A + B) for a wasted spark 4cy, 4 x VB921's (Spark A + B + C + D) for a wasted spark 8cy, etc. The outputs will NOT work correctly if you choose: e.g. Spark A and Spark C for a 4cy They MUST be selected in sequence A, B, C, D, E, F e.g. Spark A and Spark B for a 4cy

Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set ALL the Spark Outputs used as SPARK A .. B .. C ..etc , in Codebase and Output Functions, etc, ensure that all the Spark Outputs are set correctly!! Read the Software manual for more info!!
4 cylinder Wasted setup 6 cylinder Wasted setup 8 cylinder Wasted setup

Multiple Coils Direct Drive Output for a V3.0 PCB When running more than 2 spark coil outputs directly from the MS ECU it is recommended that you fit a new connector (e.g. DB15) to the case (as we recommend for all V2.2 spark outs). The reason is that the ground cable / copper trace is not designed to take the current of the additional coils and it may also cause interference on the MS's ground plain. So to be safe simply drill and file out a slot for a new DB15 connector where the LED holes are in the front panel. Then mount the VB921's onto the lid of the case or underneath the MS board on another alluminium heat bus bar bolted through both sides. If mounting them on the lid, fit them so when the lid is in place the FET's end up on the bottom left corner, so when the lid is inverted like the picture they are at the top, this will ensure there is plenty of clearance for them inside the ECU when the lid is in place.

Note: This db15 is NOT the same as the V3.57 PCB db15, that can be used but you would need to strengthen the copper traces on the PCB and you would need to select different pins to the ones shown is these instructions!!!!
Using the following diagram would mean removing the LED's from the pcb, simply remove them and do nothing else to the holes they leave.

3 x VB921's mounted on the lid.

DB15 connector on front panel

Remember you only need to fit the same amount of VB921's as you require outputs. e.g. 2 x VB921's (Spark A + B) for a wasted spark 4cy, 4 x VB921's (Spark A + B + C + D) for a wasted spark 8cy, etc. The outputs will NOT work correctly if you choose: e.g. Spark A and Spark C for a 4cy They MUST be selected in sequence A, B, C, D, E, F e.g. Spark A and Spark B for a 4cy

Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set ALL the Spark Outputs used as SPARK A .. B .. C ..etc, in Codebase and Output Functions, etc, ensure that all the Spark Outputs are set correctly!! Read the Software manual for more info!!
4 cylinder Wasted setup 6 cylinder Wasted setup 8 cylinder Wasted setup

Wasted Spark: This is used on a lot of 4 stroke engines and is where a pair of cylinders are fired together, one cylinder is on the compression stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke. The 2 cylinders that are fired are the pair that move together and are therefore opposite each other in the firing order. This setup therefore has multiple coils, usually 2 for a 4cy, 4 for a 8cy, etc. It does NOT have a distributor, as the spark plugs in the cylinders are connected directly to the coils. e.g. Rover V8 firing order = 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 This would be 2 rotations of the crank, so 720 degs. To fire this engine in wasted spark we would fire 1+6 together (as these are opposite in the firing order), then 90deg later we would fire 8+5(again these are opposite in the firing order), then 90deg later 4+7 then finally a further 90deg we would fire 3+2, this repeats every crank revolution. Ford 4 cylinder firing order = 1, 3, 4, 2 This would be 2 rotations of the crank, so 720 degs. To fire this engine in wasted spark we would fire 1+4 together (as these are opposite in the firing order), then 180deg later we would fire 3+2 (again these are opposite in the firing order), this repeats every crank revolution. The cylinder that is fired on it's exhaust stroke is know as the "wasted spark" as it produces no power. The benefits are that the coil fires less often than when using a single coil and has more time to charge ready for its next spark. This is very helpful at high revs when the charge time can be very small.

Coil On Plug (COP) options: There appears to be 2 different types of COP that manufacturers use: A) One is a directly driven coil and has 2 or 3 wires, these have no integral amplifier (ignitor) and need to treated like a standard ignition coil. VB921's would be needed to fire these devices, see HERE for more info on wiring the MS ECU for these. Please note you would need to figure out what the pins were, there will be a 12V ignition feed, may be a ground and the fire signal (Spark A, B, etc) B) The other type has 4 or 5, sometimes more, pins. These have a built in amplifier (Ignitor) so they can be fired with a smaller transitor if necassary (Note: You may still be able to use a VB921, it may just need a pull up resistor depending on how your cop is designed.) Some of the COPs with built in ignitors need a 5V signal, some need a 12V signal to fire them, others needs a switched ground to fire them. Without some experimenting it's difficult to tell which way around it needs unless you can measure a working setup with a scope or meter or if you can find the information from people who have already got a set like you have running. Here are a few different wiring diagrams to try if you can find out which way yours are fire: 12V pull up to fire 5V pull up to fire Ground switching to fire

VAG P/N 06B 905 115 COPs:

Thanks to Woh, Evolotion, Slow_Hemi6 and a few others here is how to set up the 4pin VAG COPs Coil PN 06B 905 115 as used on VW 1.8t and may other VAG cars (2001+). Theres no reason why, with a little measuring, you couldnt have a good guess at what a different type needed if you know where the pins connect. Start by checking if you have a 120 -500 ohm resistor in the cop to gound. Using a multimeter set to resistance to a suitable range, check between pin 2 and 3 (this is the Spark Signal Input and Ground). If you have a reading of around 120-500 ohms you need to go the 5V PULL UP route. If the impedance is higher, say ~1k then the Ground switching route should work. Coil PN 06B 905 115 L and R have been tested with the 5V Pull up method. Use the 'R' revision since the earlier 'L' revision has reliability issues.

Earlier than 2001 coils, PN - 06B 905 115, 06B 905 115 B and E have not been tested with these connections but have been reported to work using the Ground switching route. The coil pack connections: Pin 1: Connects to Pin 1 on all other coils and then to +12v ignition feed (or fuel pump relay). Pin 2: Signal ground (connect to ground at MegaSquirt's ground) Pin 3: Spark Signal from ECU (Ground switching or +5v switching) Pin 4: Power ground (Engine Earth)

Dwell for these COPs are: Cranking = 4.0mS Running = 3.0mS Spark Inverted = NO

Resistance measurement at pin 2 and 3: Greater than 1k ohm reistance use Ground switching (LED drivers or VB921's, see HERE for VB921 wiring) Less than 500 ohm resistance use 5V PULL UP route (2N4033) V3.0 PCB 5V pull up -- V2.2 PCB 5V pull up -- V3.0 PCB 12V Pull up -- V2.2 PCB 12V Pull up V3.0 PCB Ground switching -- V2.2 PCB Ground switching V3.0 PCB Schematics -- V2.2 PCB Schematics V3.0 PCB 5V Pull up diagram: For a 4cy sequential setup you would need to have 4 of these circuits rather than the 2 below, simply repeat the additions for Spark C and D so Spark C point to connect the 1K resistor is: V3.0 PCB - Top of R27 V2.2 PCB - Right side of R26 Use SPR2 for the 2N4033 collector's connection - Spark C will be on pin 4 of db37 Spark D point to connect the 1K resistor is V3.0 PCB - Bottom of R1 with R1 removed V2.2 PCB - Top of R14 R14 removed Use SPR3 for the 2N4033 collector's connection - Spark D will be on pin 5 of db37

Try SPARK INVERTED = NO to start with, ensure you keep an eye on the temp of the COP when you first turn ignition ON!! If it gets hot try SPARK INVERTED = YES
V2.2 PCB 5V Pull up diagram

Try SPARK INVERTED = NO to start with, ensure you keep an eye on the temp of the COP when you first turn ignition ON!! If it gets hot try SPARK INVERTED = YES
V3.0 PCB 5V pull up -- V2.2 PCB 5V pull up -- V3.0 PCB 12V Pull up -- V2.2 PCB 12V Pull up V3.0 PCB Ground switching -- V2.2 PCB Ground switching V3.0 PCB Schematics -- V2.2 PCB Schematics V3.0 PCB 12V Pull up diagram For a 4cy sequential setup you would need to have 4 of these circuits rather than the 2 below, simply repeat the additions for Spark C and D so Spark C point to connect the 1K resistor is: V3.0 PCB - Top of R27 V2.2 PCB - Right side of R26 Use SPR2 for the 2N4033 collector's connection - Spark C will be on pin 4 of db37 Spark D point to connect the 1K resistor is V3.0 PCB - Bottom of R1 with R1 removed V2.2 PCB - Top of R14 R14 removed Use SPR3 for the 2N4033 collector's connection - Spark D will be on pin 5 of db37

Try SPARK INVERTED = NO to start with, ensure you keep an eye on the temp of the COP when you first turn ignition ON!! If it gets hot try SPARK INVERTED = YES
V2.2 PCB 12V Pull up diagram

Try SPARK INVERTED = NO to start with, ensure you keep an eye on the temp of the COP when you first turn ignition ON!! If it gets hot try SPARK INVERTED = YES
V3.0 PCB 5V pull up -- V2.2 PCB 5V pull up -- V3.0 PCB 12V Pull up -- V2.2 PCB 12V Pull up V3.0 PCB Ground switching -- V2.2 PCB Ground switching V3.0 PCB Schematics -- V2.2 PCB Schematics V3.0 PCB Ground switching diagram For a 4cy sequential setup you would need to have 4 of these circuits rather than the 2 below, simply repeat the additions for Spark C and D so Spark C point to connect the 1K resistor is: V3.0 PCB - Top of R27 V2.2 PCB - Right side of R26 Use SPR2 for the connection - Spark C will be on pin 4 of db37 Spark D point to connect the 1K resistor is V3.0 PCB - Bottom of R1 with R1 removed V2.2 PCB - Top of R14 R14 removed Use SPR3 for the connection - Spark D will be on pin 5 of db37

Ground Switching V3.0 PCB ONLY

Try SPARK INVERTED = NO to start with, ensure you keep an eye on the temp of the COP when you first turn ignition ON!! If it gets hot try SPARK INVERTED = YES
V2.2 PCB Ground switching diagram

Ground Switching V2.2 PCB Only

Try SPARK INVERTED = NO to start with, ensure you keep an eye on the temp of the COP when you first turn ignition ON!! If it gets hot try SPARK INVERTED = YES
V3.0 PCB COP Schematic diagram

V2.2 PCB COP Schematic diagram

Driving two coils from the same spark output e.g. wasted spark coil on plug (COP) In order to drive 2 coils from the same spark output, e.g. when you have 2 or 3 pinned COP's and want to run wasted spark, then the wiring is very similar to the multiple wiring, except that the resistors must be 660 Ohm rather than 330 that go to the Gate of the VB921, and there are now 2 x VB921's per spark output. (See HERE for more on COPs before going this route)

Note: This db15 is NOT the same as the V3.57 PCB db15, that can be used but you would need to strengthen the copper traces on the PCB and you would need to select different pins to the ones shown is these instructions!!!!
Important note: One VB921 can only drive a single coil, do NOT wire 2 coils to one VB921.

Again it is recommended that you fit a db15 connector to the MS ECU in place of the LED's:

For 4cy sequential using coils that have no built in ignitor:

If you have a question, comment, or suggestion for this FAQ, e-mail Phil or James or post it on the forum. Last Updated: 07/17/2011 16:33:43

No part of this manual may be reproduced or changed without written permission from Philip Ringwood, James Murray, Ken Culver and Lance. Many thanks to Lance for giving us permission to edit and adapt his MS Manual for MSnS-Extra use.

Component Replacement

Print See Figures 1, 2 and 3

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of a common non-EST distributor assembly

Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of a common EST distributor assembly - without sealed module connectors

Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of a common EST distributor assembly - with sealed module connectors

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Ignition Coil

See Figures 4, 5 and 6

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disengage the primary electrical wiring connector and the coil-to-distributor high tension cable from the ignition coil. 3. Remove the coil attaching bolts, then remove the coil from the engine.

To install: 10. Position the coil to the engine and secure using the retainers. 11. Engage the primary electrical wiring connector and the coil-to-distributor high tension cable to the ignition coil. 12. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 4: Disconnect the coil-to-distributor high tension cable from the top of the ignition coil

Fig. Fig. 5: Disengage any electrical wiring connectors from the coil

Fig. Fig. 6: Loosen and remove the retaining bolts, then remove the coil from the bracket
Distributor Cap

See Figures 7, 8, 9 and 10

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and if necessary for access, remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the retainer and spark plug wires from the cap. If there is no wire retainer, be sure to tag all wires before disconnecting them from the distributor cap. Tagging wires will help preserve the proper firing order and greatly ease cap installation. 3. If retained by spring loaded locktabs, depress, twist and release the distributor cap-to-housing locktabs, then lift off the cap assembly. Most integral coil distributor caps will be retained by 2 spring loaded locktabs, though some models may use more. 4. If retained by mounting screws, loosen the screws, then remove the cap from the distributor assembly.

To install: 10. Install the cap to the distributor assembly and secure using the housing retainers. 11. Install the spark plug wires and retainer to the cap. If no wire retainer is used, carefully connect the wires to the cap as tagged during removal. 12. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 7: Disconnect the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap

Fig. Fig. 8: If there is no wire retainer, tag and disconnect the spark plug wires from the top of the cap

Fig. Fig. 9: Release the spring-loaded locktabs, then remove the cap from the distributor

Fig. Fig. 10: Lift the cap from the distributor assembly
Rotor

See Figures 11 and 12

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and if necessary for access, remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the distributor cap from the housing assembly.

Although most rotors can only be installed in one direction, it is still wise to note the position of the rotor before removal to assure proper installation and ignition timing.
9. Remove the rotor attaching screw(s), if equipped, and note the position of the rotor, then remove the rotor from the distributor.

To install: 10. Install the rotor facing in the direction noted earlier, then if applicable, secure the rotor using the attaching screw(s). 11. Install the distributor cap to the housing assembly. 12. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 11: Loosen and remove the rotor retaining screws

Fig. Fig. 12: Lift the rotor from the distributor assembly
Ignition Module

See Figures 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20

NON-EST DISTRIBUTOR

Some non-EST distributors may require a partial disassembly of the distributor in order to remove and replace the ignition module. Though most modules are replaceable without disassembling the distributor, removing the distributor assembly from the engine will make access to the components easier. If you wish to avoid removing the distributor from the engine, remove the cap and rotor to see if access to the module retainers and connectors is possible with the distributor installed, then make your decision on how to proceed.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap and position it aside with the wiring still attached. If necessary, tag and disconnect all or some of the wiring in order to position the cap out of the way. 3. If necessary to access the module or if distributor disassembly is necessary, remove the distributor from the engine and place it on a work bench. Be sure to matchmark the rotor and housing before and after removal. 4. If necessary, remove the rotor from the distributor assembly. If applicable, remove the packing ring and the cover. 5. If applicable, remove the electrical harness-to-distributor screw. 6. Disengage the electrical harness connectors from the ignition module. 7. If the distributor is being disassembled, use two medium prybars to carefully pry the pole piece from the distributor shaft, then remove the roll pin. 8. Remove the ignition module retaining screws, then lift the module from the distributor. If equipped, be sure to remove the spacers from the module. 9. If the module is suspected as being defective, take it to a module testing machine and have it tested.

To install: 10. Apply a coat of silicone lubricant to the base of the ignition module to aid in heat dissipation. 11. Install the ignition module to the distributor assembly and secure using the retainers. If equipped, be sure to properly position the spacers during installation. 12. If removed, install the pole piece onto the distributor shaft, followed by a new roll pin.

If the breaker plate was loosened during distributor disassembly, use a 0.12-0.20 in. (9-10mm) feeler gauge to measure the air gap between the pole piece and the breaker plate stator.
19. Engage the electrical harness connectors to the ignition module, then if equipped, install the harness retaining screw.

Fig. Fig. 13: Disengage one or both of the module wiring connectors. The coil wiring may be left connected to the module until it is removed from the distributor

Fig. Fig. 14: Loosen and remove the module retainers

Fig. Fig. 15: Remove the module from the distributor; in this case the coil wiring is still attached

Fig. Fig. 16: Disengage the remaining wiring from the module

Fig. Fig. 17: Coat the base of the new module with silicone lubricant to aid in heat dissipation

Fig. Fig. 18: Position the new module to the distributor assembly and engage the wiring
110. If applicable, install the packing ring and cover. 111. Install the rotor to the distributor assembly. 112. If removed, align the matchmarks made earlier and install the distributor to the engine. Be sure the rotor is facing the proper direction and matchmarks once the distributor is fully installed. 113. Install the cap to the distributor assembly. If any wiring was disconnected, be sure to engage it as tagged or noted during removal. 114. Connect the negative battery cable.

Fig. Fig. 19: Removing the pole piece while disassembling the distributor

Fig. Fig. 20: Removing the roll pin - NOTE that on some distributors, the roll pin is mounted much higher on the shaft
EST DISTRIBUTOR

The ignition modules are located inside the distributor; they may be replaced without removing the distributor from the engine.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove the distributor cap and the rotor.

Although most rotors can only be installed in one direction, it is still wise to note the position of the rotor before removal to assure proper installation and ignition timing.
9. If the flange of the distributor shaft, is positioned above the module, place a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate the crankshaft (turning the distributor shaft) to provide clearance to the ignition module. Since this will change the rotor position it may be wise to reinstall the rotor before turning in order to make new alignment marks. 10. Remove the ignition module-to-distributor screws, lift the module and disengage the electrical connectors from it. 11. If the module is suspected as being defective, take it to a module testing machine and have it tested.

To install: 12. Apply a coat of silicone lubricant to the base of the ignition module (along the module-to-distributor mounting surface) to aid in heat dissipation. 13. Engage the module electrical wiring and install the ignition module to the distributor assembly, then secure using the retaining screws. 14. Install the rotor to the distributor assembly as noted during removal. 15. Install the cap to the distributor assembly. 16. Connect the negative battery cable.

HEI SYSTEM TACHOMETER HOOKUP

These vehicles are equipped with externally mounted ignition coils. Connect one tachometer lead to the TACH terminal on the ignition coil and connect the other one to a suitable ground.
CAUTION Never ground the TACH terminal; serious ignition module and coil damage will result. If there is any doubt as to the correct tachometer hookup, check with the tachometer manufacturer. Troubleshooting the HEI System

Print The symptoms of a defective component within the HEI system are exactly the same as those you would encounter in a conventional system.Some of these symptoms are:
1. 2. 3. 4. Hard or no starting Rough idle Poor fuel economy Engine misses under load or while accelerating

If you suspect a problem in your ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module. Since the only change between electronic and conventional ignition systems is in the distributor component area, it is imperative to check the secondary ignition circuit first. If the secondary circuit checks out properly, then the engine condition is probably not the fault of the ignition system. To check the secondary ignition system, perform a simple spark test. Remove one of the plug wires and insert some sort of extension in the plug socket. An old spark plug with the ground electrode removed makes a good extension. Hold the wire and extension (using a suitable insulated tool) about 1 / 4 in. (6mm) away from the block and crank the engine. If a normal spark occurs, then the problem is most likely not in the ignition system. Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark plugs. If, however, there is no spark or a weak spark, then further ignition system testing will have to be done. Troubleshooting techniques fall into two categories, depending on the nature of the problem. The categories are (1) Engine cranks, but won't start or (2) Engine runs rough or cuts out.

ENGINE FAILS TO START

If the engine won't start, perform a spark test as described earlier. This will narrow the problem area down considerably. If no spark occurs, check for the presence of normal battery voltage at the battery (BAT) terminal in the distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or a test light may be used for this test. Connect the test light wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes on, you have voltage to the distributor. If the light fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring leading to the distributor. In this case, you will have to check wiring continuity back to the ignition switch using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the problem lies within the distributor assembly. Go on to the distributor components test section.

ENGINE RUNS ROUGH OR CUTS OUT

5. Make sure the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the wires with a probe. Check the chart for the correct plug wire resistance. 6. If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap assembly and check for moisture, cracks, chips, or carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks or failures. Replace the cap if any defects are found. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when the engine is cranked. If everything is all right so far, go on to the distributor components test section

7. Ignition Options/Wheel Decoder

The left hand side : Spark mode - this sets the type of tach input pattern decoder to be used. For detail on the various modes see here Trigger Angle/Offset - There are three different ways this setting is used:
In Basic Trigger and Trigger Return it specifies the engine angle BTDC that each trigger pulse is received. In Toothed Wheel it should always be set to zero - use tooth#1 angle instead. In other modes this setting can make a +/- 20 degree adjustment to the preset timing alignment. Angle between main and return - This is only used in CAS 4/1 mode and specifies the angular length of each tooth.

Oddfire first angle - For oddfire engines this specifies the angle the engine must rotate from spark A output to spark B output. GM HEI/DIS options - With HEI7/8 this setting enables the "bypass" output on spark B. Ford TFI options - This allows you to enable Signature PIP mode if you have a Signature PIP distributor, where one vane is shorter than the others. Signature PIP mode is used with "Basic Trigger" and allows the Megasquirt to use these distributors for sequential fuel. Oddfire phasing - Oddfire Chevy V6 engines use alternate long/short angles between cylinders. Yamaha Vmax use a paired long/long/short/short pattern. Skip Pulses - This tells the code how many input pulses it should ignored before attempting to match the input pattern. The default value of 3 is suitable for most applications. Ignition Input Capture - This must be matched to your tach input. If it is set incorrectly you can experience timing drift with rpms or misdetection of missing teeth on a missing tooth wheel. The tooth logger can be used to confirm polarity is correct. Spark Output - This setting is CRITICAL or you will melt your ignition coils. For 99% of installs using the MS3X spark outputs, this should be set to "Going high (inverted)". See the ignition outputs section. Number of coils - Specifies the type of ignition coils in use. The code automatically chooses the number of outputs to use. Single coil - just one coil or spark output. e.g. single coil, TFI, HEI, EDIS Wasted spark - one double ended coil for a pair of cylinders. i.e. 2 spark outputs on a 4 cyl. COP - coil-on-plug - one coil per cylinder fired once per cycle (typically needs a cam sensor) Wasted COP - one coil per cylinder fired twice per cycle (typically does not need a cam sensor.) Coils are wired the same as COP. Dual dizzy - for engines with two coils and two distributors e.g. Lexus V8. Spark hardware in use - Either MS3X or LEDs. The MS3X outputs are ready to use logic spark outputs. The "LED" spark outputs require DIY board customisation and are covered in the MS2/Extra manuals. Cam input - Either MS3X or JS10. The MS3X input is ready to use. JS10 requires DIY board customisation. The remaining settings apply to Toothed Wheel and are covered in that section of the manual.

The right hand side : Fixed advance - When set to "Fixed Advance" the spark timing is locked to the value set below. This is used for confirming timing with a strobe timing light during setup. (See also Checking Timing.) For normal operation, this MUST be set to "Use table" so that the spark advance table is used. Use Prediction - Normally set to "1st Deriv Prediction". Alters the way the internal spark timing calculation functions. With no prediction, spark retard may be observed during engine acceleration. With 1st Deriv, this is automatically compensated for. Timing for Fixed Advance - only applies when "Fixed Timing" is set above. Timing is then locked to this specified value. Cranking dwell - specifies the base coil dwell time during cranking before battery correction is applied. Dwell type - Can be "Standard Dwell", "Fixed Duty", "Time after Spark", "Charge at Trigger"
Standard Dwell - this is the setting to use for most installs. i.e. regular coils that are fired by a module or with internal drivers or logic-level COPs. This is also used with GM-HEI7 and GM-DIS. Fixed Duty - locks the spark output to a constant duty cycle instead of controlling dwell. This is typically used for ignition modules that control the dwell directly, including Ford's "Push Start" TFI modules, Bosch "smart" ignition modules, or MSD and other capacitive discharge boxes. Time After Spark - only intended for Saab Tri-Ionic DI cassettes that require a backwards dwell signal. Charge at trigger - rarely used. Could be used with MSD type CDI boxes when running Basic Trigger only. Do not use with multi-tooth wheels. Do not use with direct coil control or COP type ignitions as the dwell varies with rpm and advance.

Use dwell vs rpm curve - For Saab Tri-ionic and time-after-spark, the dwell can be varied with rpm. Nominal dwell - The base dwell time before battery voltage correction. (With the standard correction curve, this time is applied at 14V) Typical values are 3-4 ms. Spark duration - The time required for the spark to complete, typically in the order of 1 millisecond. Note that in older single-coil systems with many cylinders, the dwell time can be constrained at higher rpms as there isn't enough time between cylinders for the desired dwell and spark. The dwell time is automatically reduced in this case (this is the reason for stock HEI ignition being weak above 5000rpm on V8s.) With wasted-spark or COP there is far greater time between ignition events and this dwell-reduction rarely occurs. Dwell time - the backwards dwell time for Time-After-Spark Dwell duty - for fixed duty, this specifies the %age duty cycle of the output signal. Spark Hardware Latency - all electronic devices take a finite time to propagate signals and switch. This setting allows for that slight delay. If you notice a slight retarding of ignition timing with rpm while strobing with fixed timing, you can enter a small number in here to remedy it. Middle LED indicator - for Trigger Return mode only, the middle LED on the case can be used to echo the input signal from the distributor to help in setting up the base timing. Spark Trim - enables the adjustment of timing per individual cylinder. This requires a suitable trigger wheel arrangement.

Dwell Battery Correction (Adjustment)

The dwell battery correction/adjustment curve is a built-in curve to automatically apply greater spark dwell at lower battery voltages. This is required for inductive ignition systems - more time is required to charge the coil with less voltage. The default curve as shown is suitable for most application. Note that it is centred on 14.4V with 100% - at this voltage the actual dwell time matches the dwell entered on the ignition options page.

Dwell vs RPM

The Dwell vs. RPM curve is a feature intended to be used with Saab Tri-ionic ignitions only. These require "Time After Spark " to be enabled. The dwell vs. RPM curve must also be turned on.

Cold Advance

The cold advance feature can be used to run more (or less) advance on a cold engine. When cold an engine typically requires more advance for normal operation. Conversely though, many OEMs are reported to retard timing during warmup to more quickly bring the catalyst up to operating temperature. Ensure that the advance figure in the final row is zero , this will allow the spark timing to follow the advance table.

MAT-based timing retard

High inlet air temperatures (MAT) can make an engine more prone to knock, this is especially the case on boosted engines where prolonged periods of hard driving or idling in high ambient air temperatures can have a significant impact on MAT. This feature allows the timing to be retarded at higher MAT readings for greater engine safety. Ensure that the retard figure at normal temperatures is zero, this will allow the spark timing to follow the advance table.

Noise Filtering

Noise filter period - this sets a minimum pulse time to ignore. It can filter out very short noise spikes. Primary Tach Noise filter enabled - enables noise filter curve on primary/crank tach input. Tach period rejection - ignores pulses shorter than time/percentage Tach interrupt masking - turns off input pin so pulses are not seen at all for time/percentage Time(ms) - time period to ignore. Percentage - percentage of "tach interval" to ignore. Secondary Tach Noise filter enabled - enables noise filter time on secondary/cam tach input. Noise filter time period - pulses shorter than this are treated as noise Tach period rejection - ignores pulses shorter than time/percentage Tach interrupt masking - turns off input pin so pulses are not seen at all for time/percentage Time(ms) - time period to ignore. Percentage - percentage of "tach interval" to ignore. Noise filter curve - the curve sets filter times at varying rpms. Examples Coil negative triggering for a fuel-only install. This requires noise filtering to eliminate the effects of coil ringing. A typical setting would be to enable crank tach period masking at 2ms and 30%. Distributor type pickup, HEI, TFI, EDIS. Noise filtering is often useful here. A typical setting would be crank tach period masking with 1ms and 30%. Wheel decoder and other more advanced installs. Noise filtering may be useful on some installs. Due to the multi-toothed input signal the rejection time periods need to be set far smaller. e.g. on a V8 with distributor at 6000rpm, the time between tach pulses is 5ms. A 36-1 wheel on the same engine gives a pulse every 0.6ms (600us). Using too large a filter time will filter out the real signal.

Knock Control
Note: the knock sensing feedback system can never offer foolproof protection against engine damage. Check your settings with care, take plug readings and use det-cans. Spark knock is the sound of abnormal combustion in an engine. Once combustion in a spark-ignition internal combustion engine is initiated by a spark, the flame front is designed to spread from the spark plug and travel across the combustion chamber rapidly and smoothly. As the flame front propagates across the chamber, the remaining unburnt air-fuel mixture can ignite spontaneously (auto-ignites) before the flame front arrives, due to the increasing pressure and temperature in the combustion chamber. When this occurs, there is a sudden jump in the pressure in the cylinder. This causes in the characteristic knocking or pinging sound. It is most common at low-mid rpms and high load, such as ascending a hill in too high a gear. Prolonged heavy knock is likely to cause severe and permanent engine damage and must be avoided. It is a common misconception that engines make most torque just before knock. Do not use the sound of knock as a guide for best timing, ideally set timing on a dyno to achieve maximum brake torque (MBT) timing. Even with a well tuned engine, factors such as fuel octane, intake air temperature, coolant temperature, engine age and condition, air/fuel ratios, air density, altitude and humidity and others can push the engine from a safe condition to borderline knock or worse. The knock control system is a safety measure designed to retard timing under these conditions and safeguard the engine. The Megasquirt knock control system supports the use:

basic on/off external modules that signal either "knock" or "no-knock" internal variable level module that allows thresholds by rpm (read more.) external variable level (future option)

Key to knock sensing is the knock sensor itself.

GM sensor

Bosch sensor

There are two main types of knock sensor. Resonant and wideband sensors. The resonant sensor is tuned to a particular frequency and is only likely to work on an engine with a very similar bore size. (Bore size determines 'ping' frequency.) The wideband sensors give a lower voltage output but operate over a wider frequency range and can likely be applied to different engines. The GM knock sensor is tuned to a specify frequency, like a tuning fork. When this frequency is applied to the sensor (through its connection to the engine), a piezoelectric crystal inside the sensor generates a small voltage (~1 volt), much like a microphone. As an example, some Corvette knock sensors (GM PN 1997562, 1997699, OR Standard Motor Products KS45, KS46, KS49, or KS117) have a design frequency of 5200 Hz, and they produce a signal between 4800 Hz and 5600 Hz. The sensor should be mounted near the top of the engine block, as close to the center as practical. Do not mount it close to noisy components such as the fuel pump or cam shaft lifters. Mounting the knock sensor in the cylinder head is not a good idea because of valve train noise.

Finding a suitable location of the sensor is crucial. Wherever possible, use the location specified by the manufacturer for that engine family. Ideally, you will be able to find a suitable threaded hole in your block to which you can mount the sensor. If not, an alternative is to drill and tap the block, or thread a steel adapter to accommodate the sensor on one end and a stub with the thread to match those in an existing pretapped boss in your block. Note that it may be necessary to change the sensor location if you cannot isolate engine noise while allowing MegaSquirt to identify knock. If you choose to drill and tap your block, choose a thick area of the block with a boss that is at least " (19 mm) thick. Drill a " (13mm) hole. The hole should be 0.500" to 0.625" (13 mm to 16 mm) deep. Make absolutely sure that it is safe to drill a hole this size - YOU CAN RUIN YOUR ENGINE'S BLOCK WITH A POORLY PLACED HOLE! The GM knock sensors have a 3/8" NPT thread. Tap the hole with a 9/16" UNF starter tap. Go in 4 turns of the tap to begin with, clean out the chips and try the sensor for fit. Keep tapping one turn at a time until the sensor threads in 4 to 5 turns with hand pressure. Stop tapping when the sensor will screw into the hole 6 to 7 threads with a wrench. Note that the thread on the knock sensor is a tapered thread. The Bosch sensor can be more simply attached by bolting it to the block. It uses a standard EV1 style injector connector. Basic on/off mode - GM ESC module

Above approximately 5000 rpm, however, this knock may be masked by mechanical noise. MegaSquirt's tuning software allows you to set an upper rpm limit on the knock sensor feedback. On the Corvette L83/L98/LT1/LT4 engines, this sensor is usually screwed (with a specified torque value) into the coolant drain hole near the center of the block side, just above the oil pan rail. This location has been chosen as optimum for this sensor and engine family. On the LS1 engine, the sensors (there are two) are located in the center valley on top of the engine. A conditioning module is also required, such as GM's Electronic Spark Control (ESC) module (PN 16022621, 16052401), see above. These are also available as Standard Motor Products LXE6, LXE7, and LXE9. These are very common in recycling yards, they were used all virtually all GM vehicles from the mid-1980s to the late 1990s. You should match the sensor and module by application to ensure they will work together properly. Note that you can get a KnockSenseMS kit designed to work with MegaSquirt from this site.

Wiring the Knock Sensor and Module

The ESC module sends a voltage signal (8 to 10 volts) when NO knock is detected by the knock sensor. If knock occurs, this signal is pulled low.

This signal is fed to the Megasquirt via a pin of your choice. "Launch", "Datalog", "Tableswitch" can be directly connected. On these inputs ensure the pull up/down is set to "none". Internal variable module

This internal module allows knock to be monitored over a specific crankshaft angle 'window', allows gain to be adjusted and knock level thresholds to be set depending on rpm. This allows far greater tunability and should help to distinguish between engine noise and knock.

Knock Control: o Disabled: do not use knock feedback for ignition advance control o Safe Mode: use knock retard, but keep the advance below that which caused knock. This backs the advance 1 small step back and leaves it at that until TPS or MAP changes - or knock comes back. This is "safe mode" scheme is the safest thing for a DIY set-up. o Aggressive Mode: use knock retard, but keep advance at threshold of knock occurring. That is, the program advances (up to the timing table value) if it doesn't see knock, and retards if does see knock. The difference from safe mode is that the timing can be advance all the way to the table value after knock, not just up to one step below knock. This may result in the knock returning, in which case the timing is retarded again, then advanced slowly, and so on. Input type: o On/Off: basic on/off "knock" or "no-knock" external input. o Analogue: external analogue input proportional to knock signal level o Internal: internal knock module. (read more.) Input pin (only for on/off) Which input pin the external module is connected to. Knock Indicated By (only for On/off) The logic input level. i.e. when set to 'low' then a 0V signal means there is knock. This matches the GM module. Pullup/down on input (only for On/off) Whether an internal pull-resistor should be applied. When using the suggestion Datalog/Tableswitch/Launch input pin set to "None" Input pin (only for Analogue) Which analogue input pin the external module is connected to. Window Sample Type (only for Analogue) Either read single analogue value at end knock window or peak detect. Window Output (only for Analogue) Optional digital output for knock window signal.
Detection

Knock Count (knocks): number of knock events detected before control is started

Knock Ignored above MAP (kPa): no knock retard is implemented above this MAP RPM window low (rpm): knock rcontrol is implemented above this rpm RPM window high (rpm): knock control is implemented below this rpm. This upprt limit is desirable as valve train noise will typically mask out the knock sensor signal at higher rpms which could cause false reports of knock.
Retarding

Maximum Retard (deg): maximum total retard when knock occurs. This can be useful to prevent timing from being excessively retarded (avoiding potential overheating issues) if the senor malfunctions or there are other problems with the knock sensing system. Retard Check Time (sec): this is the time between knock retard corrections, allows short time step to quickly retard. Retard Coarse Step Size (deg): ignition retard step size when 1st knock, make it large to quickly retard the timing and stop knock. Retard Fine Step Size (deg): ignition retard step size when knock restarts after it had stopped.
Recovery

Advance Check Time (sec): this is the time between knock advance corrections (I.e., timing return to 'normal') Advance Step Size (deg): ignition advance step size after knock has stopped. Recovery Advance (deg)): this is the change in table advance required to restart advance until knock or reach table value (0 knock retard) process. This only applies in 'Safe Mode'

Knock Input Threshold

For analogue and internal modes this sets a threshold level. If the measured knock signal exceeds the threshold then the control system is started. This allows different thresholds to be applied to match actual engine behaviour. The curve will need to be set empirically by examining datalogs of knock% when operating the engine under safe conditions.

Knock Parameters

(Only for 'Internal'.)

Bandpass frequency - this should be adjusted to suit the resonant frequency of you engine. (Formulae exist on the web for estimating this frequency based on bore diameter.) Integrator time constant - internal setting to knock sensor chip. Default is 150us. Number of sensors - how many knock sensors are connected (1 or 2.) Monitor per cylinder - when sequential fuel or spark are in operation the code can determine which cylinder the knock signal applies to. This enables the individual cylinder data to be recorded. Gain - compensate for sensor sensitivity and distance between cylinder and sensor. Sensor - pick which sensor to use for each cylinder.

Some engines have multiple knock sensors. In this case, you will usually want to pair the cylinder with whichever sensor is nearest. For example, LS1 style engines use a pair of sensors in the valley which are positioned to 'listen' to four equally spaced cylinders each. i.e. the front sensor corresponds to cylinders 1,2,3,4 and the rear sensor to cylinders 5,6,7,8.

Knock Window Settings

(Only for 'Analogue' and 'Internal'.)

> Sets the start of the knock monitoring window and the size of the window in degrees. It is typical (per Heywood) for the knock events to start around TDC and continue for many degrees afterwards.

Knock Window Settings (Only for Analogue and Internal.)

Allows up-scaling of knock sensor threshold depending on coolant. Many engines are noisy during cold operating due to increased clearances. This would result in false knock reports if the threshold was not raised at

low temperatures. Ensure that the final row is 100% for a warmed up engine.

Ignition Tables 1-4

Ignition table 1 is the main 3d table that control ignition timing. (Tables 2,3,4 are used with table-blending and table-switching.) The numbers in the body of the table are the commanded ignition advance during run mode. i.e. 21 deg in the table will result in a commanded 21 deg timing. The final commanded timing is also impacted by cold advance, MAT retard and knock retard. So if the Ignition Advance in TunerStudio is not matching the number under the 'moving dot' on the table check those first. As a reminder, it is ESSENTIAL that the actual timing on the engine crank is checked with a strobe and that it matches the final commanded advance shown on the TunerStudio Ignition Advance gauge. See Check Timing. The load axis is always shown as a %age value. For Speed-Density this means kPa. For Alpha-N this is TPS%. For %baro this is MAP/baro %. The RPM axis is engine rpm. Values in the table are interpolated. i.e. if a value falls between cells the in-between value is correctly calculated (some older non-Megasquirt ECUs were incapable of doing this and required huge tables to compensate.) The axis values should be arranged to give you more rows/columns in areas of interest and less points where conditions are changing uniformly. Typically low load / cruise regions benefit from more points. Under boost the behaviour is smoother and the interpolation provides good control.

See Rotary Settings See Rotary Split Table

Spark trim (Cyl x-x Trims) This allows trimming of spark advance by cylinder. Each cylinder has a small 3d table permitting advance to be added or subtracted at given load/rpm points. Spark trim can only be used if the Megasquirt knows which cylinder is firing. e.g. you must be running coil-onplug ignition or sequential fuel. It will not work with EDIS. Having confirmed that your tach input system can support spark trim, it needs to be enabled. The spark trim tables are grouped cylinders 1-4, 5-8 (and optionally 9-12, 13-16.) They all share the same load and rpm axes.

The numbers in the table body are degrees added or subtracted from the advance. i.e. if the advance is currently 17.4 degrees and the table specifies a trim of -3 then the resultant advance on that cylinder will be 14.4 degrees.

All vehicles with the 2.3L (VIN A, D, and 3) and 2.4L (VIN T) engines are equipped with the Integrated Direct Ignition (IDI) or Electronic Ignition (EI) system, depending on the year of your vehicle. These systems feature distributorless ignition. The IDI or EI system consists of two separate ignition coils, an ignition module/Ignition Control Module (ICM) and a secondary conductor housing which is mounted to an aluminum cover plate. The system also consists of a Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, related connecting wires and the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) or Ignition Control (IC) portion of the computer control module (ECM or PCM depending upon vehicle year). The IDI/EI system uses a magnetic crankshaft sensor (mounted remotely from the ignition module) and a reluctor to determine crankshaft position and engine speed. The reluctor is a special wheel cast into the crankshaft, with 7 slots machined into it. Six of the slots are equally spaced 60 apart and the seventh slot is spaced 10 from 1 of the other slots. This seventh slot is used to generate a sync-pulse. The IDI/EI system uses the same Electronic Spark Timing (EST) or Ignition Control (IC) circuits as the distributor-type ignition. The computer control module (ECM/PCM) uses the EST/IC circuit to control spark advance and ignition dwell, when the ignition system is operating in the EST/IC mode. The Electronic Spark Control (ESC) system is used to control spark knock and enable maximum spark advance to improve driveability and fuel economy. This system consists of a knock sensor and an ESC module (part of Mem-Cal). The computer control module (ECM/PCM) monitors the ESC signal to determine when engine detonation occurs.

The IDI or EI system uses a waste spark distribution method. Each cylinder is paired with the cylinder opposite it (1-4, 2-3). The end of each coil secondary is attached to a spark plug. These two plugs are on companion cylinders, meaning they are at top dead center at the same time. The one that is on compression is said to be the event cylinder and the one on the exhaust stroke, the waste cylinder. When the coil discharges, both plugs fire at the same time to complete the series circuit. Since the polarity of the primary and the secondary windings are fixed, one plug always fires in a forward direction and the other in reverse. This differs from a conventional system in which all plugs fire in the same direction each time. Because of the demand for additional energy, the coil design, saturation time and primary current flow are also different. This redesign of the system allows higher energy to be available from the distributorless coils, greater than 40 kilovolts at all rpm ranges. The IDI or EI system uses a magnetic crankshaft sensor mounted remotely from the Ignition Control Module (ICM). It protrudes into the block to within approximately 0.050 in. (1.3mm) of the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel cast into the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it. Six of the slots are equally spaced (60 apart) and the seventh slot is spaced 10 from one of the other slots and serves to generate a "syncpulse". As the crankshaft rotates, the slots of the reluctor cause a changing magnetic field at the crankshaft sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse. The ICM or ignition module sends reference signals to the computer control module (ECM/PCM), based on the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor pulses, which are used to determine crankshaft position and engine speed. Reference pulses to the computer control module occur at a rate of 1 per each 180 of crankshaft rotation for vehicles through 1992, or 7 per 360 of crankshaft rotation for 1993-98 vehicles. This signal is called the 2X or 7X reference because it occurs 2 or 7 times per crankshaft revolution, depending on the year of your vehicle. For 1993-98 vehicles, the 7X reference signal is necessary for the PCM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors. For vehicles through 1992, a second reference signal is sent to the ECM which occurs at the same time as the sync-pulse, from the CKP sensor. This signal is called the 1X reference because it occurs 1 time per crankshaft revolution. The 1X and 2X reference signals are necessary for the ECM to determine when to activate the fuel injectors. By comparing the time between the 1X and 2X, or 7X reference pulses, the ignition module/ICM can recognize the sync-pulse (the seventh slot) which starts the calculation of the ignition coil sequencing. The second crank pulse following the sync-pulse signals the ignition module to fire No. 2-3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse signals the module to fire the No. 1-4 ignition coil.

Fig. Fig. 1: Relationship of the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor to the crankshaft reluctor During cranking, the ignition module monitors the sync-pulse to begin the ignition firing sequence and below 700 rpm the module controls spark advance by triggering each of the 2 coils at a pre-determined interval based on engine speed only. Above 700 rpm, the computer control module controls the spark timing (EST or IC) and compensates for all driving conditions. The ignition module must receive a sync-pulse and then a crank signal, in that order, to enable the engine to start. To control spark timing the ECM/PCM uses the following inputs:

Crankshaft position Engine speed (rpm) Engine coolant temperature Manifold/Intake air temperature Engine load (manifold pressure or vacuum) Spark knock

The ESC system is designed to retard spark timing up to 15 to reduce spark knock in the engine. When the knock sensor detects spark knocking in the engine, it sends an AC voltage signal to the computer control module, which increases with the severity of the knock. The ECM or PCM then adjusts the EST/IC to reduce spark knock.

SYSTEM COMPONENTS
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor (formerly named simply crankshaft sensor), mounted remotely from the ignition module on an aluminum cover plate, is used to determine crankshaft position and engine speed.
Ignition Coils

The two ignition coil assemblies are mounted inside the module assembly housing. Each coil distributes the spark for two plugs simultaneously (waste spark distribution).
Electronic Spark Timing (EST) 1988-92 VEHICLES

The EST system is basically the same EST to ECM circuit used on the distributor type ignition systems with EST. This system includes the following circuits:

Reference circuit (CKT 430)-provides the ECM with rpm and crankshaft position information from the IDI module. The IDI module receives this signal from the crank sensor. Bypass signal (CKT 424)-above 700 rpm, the ECM applies 5 volts to this circuit to switch spark timing control from the IDI module to the ECM. EST signal (CKT 42)-reference signal is sent to the ECM via the DIS module during cranking. Under 700 rpm, the IDI module controls the ignition timing. Above 700 rpm, the ECM applies 5 volts to the bypass line to switch the timing to the ECM control. Reference ground circuit (CKT 45)-this wire is grounded through the module and insures that the ground circuit has no voltage drop between the ignition module and the ECM which could affect performance.

Ignition Control (IC) 1993-98 VEHICLES

The IC system uses circuits between the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the PCM similar to the type that distributor systems use. This system includes the following circuits:

7X Reference (CKT 430)-The CKP sensor generates a signal to the ICM, resulting in a reference pulse which is sent to the PCM. The PCM uses this signal to determine crankshaft position, engine speed and injector pulse width. The engine will not start or run if this circuit is open or grounded. Reference low (CKT 453)-This wire is grounded through the module and insures that the ground circuit has no voltage drop between the ICM and the PCM which may affect engine performance. Ignition control 1 & 2 (CKTs 423 & 406)-The PCM sends the Ignition Control (IC) pulses to the ICM on these circuits. These signals are similar to the 7X reference pulse except that the PCM uses sensor inputs to determine the pulse timing to control spark advance. When the PCM receives the 7X signal, it will determine which pair of cylinders will be fired. (1-4 or 2-3). It will tell the ICM which cylinder pair will be fired via CKTs 423 or 406.

Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Sensor/Knock Sensor (KS) The ESC or Knock sensor, mounted in the engine block near the cylinders, detects abnormal vibration (spark knock) in the engine. It produces an AC output voltage which increases with the severity of the knock. This signal goes to the computer control module (ECM/PCM) then adjusts the EST or IC to reduce spark knocking.

Distributor Component Testing

Print If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.

IGNITION COIL
Except 1.9L Engine

See Figure 1
1. Disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the coil. 2. Set the ohmmeter to the HIGH scale, then connect it to the coil as shown in Step 1 of the illustration. The reading should be infinite. If not, verify a proper test connection to be assured of a true test result and if still not infinite, replace the coil. 3. Set the ohmmeter to the LOW scale, then connect it as shown in Step 2 of the illustration. The reading should be very low or zero. If not, verify a proper test connection and replace the coil.

Fig. Fig. 1: Ignition coil testing-except 1.9L engine

4. Set the ohmmeter on the HIGH scale, then connect it to the coil as shown in Step 3 of the illustration. The ohmmeter should NOT read infinite. If it does, verify the connection and replace the coil. 5. Reconnect the distributor lead and wiring to the coil.

1.9L Engine

See Figure 2
1. Check the outer face of the ignition coil for cracking, rust or other visible signs of damage.

Fig. Fig. 2: Ignition coil testing-1.9L engine

2. Check the resistance of the primary and secondary coils as shown in the illustration. If the resistance is not within specification, verify the proper test connections and replace the coil. Primary coil resistance-0.090-1.400 Secondary coil resistance-7.3-11.1 K-

3. If testing the insulation resistance, any reading less than 10 Megohms indicates a need to replace the coil. Since most ohmmeters will not read resistance higher than 10 megohms, any continuity will probably indicate a need to replace the component.

PICK-UP COIL
Except 1.9L Engine

See Figure 3
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap and disconnect the pick-up coil connector from the module.

Fig. Fig. 3: Pick-up coil testing-except 1.9L engine

3. Connect an ohmmeter to either pick-up coil lead and the housing as shown in Step 1 of the illustration. The reading should NOT be infinite. If the reading is infinite, replace the coil. 4. Connect an ohmmeter to both pick-up coil leads as shown in step 2 of the illustration. Flex the wires by hand at the coil and the connector to locate an intermittent opens. 5. The ohmmeter should read a constant number in the 500-1500- range. If not, replace the pick-up coil.

1.9L Engine

The pick-up coil and ignition module on the 1.9L engine must be tested as a unit. The use of an ignition module tester to perform this function is highly recommended.
Distributor Component Testing

Print If the trouble has been narrowed down to the units within the distributor, the following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should be used. These tests are made with the battery wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.

IGNITION COIL
Except 1.9L Engine

See Figure 1
1. Disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the coil. 2. Set the ohmmeter to the HIGH scale, then connect it to the coil as shown in Step 1 of the illustration. The reading should be infinite. If not, verify a proper test connection to be assured of a true test result and if still not infinite, replace the coil. 3. Set the ohmmeter to the LOW scale, then connect it as shown in Step 2 of the illustration. The reading should be very low or zero. If not, verify a proper test connection and replace the coil.

Fig. Fig. 1: Ignition coil testing-except 1.9L engine

4. Set the ohmmeter on the HIGH scale, then connect it to the coil as shown in Step 3 of the illustration. The ohmmeter should NOT read infinite. If it does, verify the connection and replace the coil. 5. Reconnect the distributor lead and wiring to the coil.

1.9L Engine

See Figure 2
1. Check the outer face of the ignition coil for cracking, rust or other visible signs of damage.

Fig. Fig. 2: Ignition coil testing-1.9L engine

2. Check the resistance of the primary and secondary coils as shown in the illustration. If the resistance is not within specification, verify the proper test connections and replace the coil. Primary coil resistance-0.090-1.400 Secondary coil resistance-7.3-11.1 K-

3. If testing the insulation resistance, any reading less than 10 Megohms indicates a need to replace the coil. Since most ohmmeters will not read resistance higher than 10 megohms, any continuity will probably indicate a need to replace the component.

PICK-UP COIL
Except 1.9L Engine

See Figure 3
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the distributor cap and disconnect the pick-up coil connector from the module.

Fig. Fig. 3: Pick-up coil testing-except 1.9L engine

3. Connect an ohmmeter to either pick-up coil lead and the housing as shown in Step 1 of the illustration. The reading should NOT be infinite. If the reading is infinite, replace the coil. 4. Connect an ohmmeter to both pick-up coil leads as shown in step 2 of the illustration. Flex the wires by hand at the coil and the connector to locate an intermittent opens. 5. The ohmmeter should read a constant number in the 500-1500- range. If not, replace the pick-up coil.

1.9L Engine

The pick-up coil and ignition module on the 1.9L engine must be tested as a unit. The use of an ignition module tester to perform this function is highly recommended.
park Plugs

Print See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell surrounding a ceramic insulator. A metal electrode extends downward through the center of the insulator and protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the plug and attached to the side of the outer metal shell is the side electrode. The side electrode bends in at a 90 angle so that its tip is just past and parallel to the tip of the center electrode. The distance between these two electrodes (measured in thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the spark plug gap. The spark plug does not produce a spark but instead provides a gap across which the current can arc. The HEI ignition coil produces considerably more voltage than the standard type, as much as approximately 50,000 volts, which travels through the wires to the spark plugs. The current passes along the center electrode and jumps the gap to the side electrode, and in doing so, ignites the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber. All plugs should have a resistor built into the center electrode to reduce interference to any nearby radio and television receivers. The resistor also cuts down on erosion of plug electrodes caused by excessively long sparking. Resistor spark plug wiring is original equipment on all models.

Fig. Fig. 1: Spark plug heat range

Fig. Fig. 2: Cross-section of a spark plug

Fig. Fig. 3: Used spark plugs which show damage may indicate engine problems

Fig. Fig. 4: Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions Spark plug life and efficiency depend upon condition of the engine and the temperatures to which the plug is exposed. Combustion chamber temperatures are affected by many factors such as compression ratio of the engine, fuel/air mixtures, exhaust emission equipment, and your style of driving. Spark plugs are designed and classified by number according to the heat range at which they will operate most efficiently. The amount of heat that the plug absorbs is determined by the length of the lower insulator. The longer the insulator (it extends farther into the engine), the hotter the plug will operate; the shorter it is, the cooler it will operate. A plug that has a short path for heat transfer and remains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of oil and carbon since it is not hot enough to burn them off. This leads to plug fouling and consequently to misfiring. A plug that has a long path of heat transfer will have no deposits but, due to the excessive heat, the electrodes will burn away quickly and, in some instances, pre-ignition may result. Pre-ignition takes place when plug tips get so hot that they glow sufficiently to ignite the fuel/air mixture before the spark does. This early ignition will usually cause a pinging during low speeds and heavy loads. In severe cases, the heat may become hot enough to start the fuel/air mixture

burning throughout the combustion chamber rather than just to the front of the plug as in normal operation. At this time, the piston is rising in the cylinder making its compression stroke. The burning mass is compressed and an explosion results producing tremendous pressure. Something has to give, and it does; pistons are often damaged. Obviously, this detonation (explosion) is a destructive condition that can be avoided by installing a spark plug designed and specified for your particular engine. A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000-30,000 miles, this is 1 1 / 2 to 2 times as long as plugs would usually last in a conventional point-type ignition system. Of course, any vehicle which is subjected to severe conditions will need more frequent plug replacement. The electrode on a new spark plug has a sharp edge but, with use, this edge becomes rounded by erosion causing the plug gap to increase. During normal operation, plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.0254mm) for every 1000-2000 miles. As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about 2-4 times as much voltage to fire a plug at high speed and acceleration than at idle. The higher voltage produced by the HEI ignition coil is one of the primary reasons for the prolonged replacement interval for spark plugs in late model trucks. A consistently hotter spark prevents the fouling of plugs for much longer than could normally be expected; this spark is also able to jump across a larger gap more efficiently than a spark from a conventional system. However, even plugs used with the HEI system wear after time in the engine. Worn plugs become obvious during acceleration. Voltage requirement is greatest during acceleration and a plug with an enlarged gap may require more voltage than the coil is able to produce. As a result, the engine misses and sputters until acceleration is reduced. Reducing acceleration reduces the plug's voltage requirement and the engine runs smoother. Slow, city driving is hard on plugs. The long periods of idle experienced in traffic creates an overly rich gas mixture. The engine does not run fast enough to completely burn the gas and, consequently, the plugs become fouled with gas deposits and engine idle becomes rough. In many cases, driving under the right conditions can effectively clean these fouled plugs. To help clean fouled plugs in a running engine, first accelerate you truck to the speed where the engine begins to miss and then slow down to the point where the engine smooths out. Run at this speed for a few minutes and then accelerate again to the point of engine miss. With each repetition this engine miss should occur at increasingly higher speeds and then disappear altogether. Do not attempt to shortcut this procedure by hard acceleration. This approach will compound problems by fusing deposits into a hard permanent glaze. Dirty, fouled plugs may be cleaned by sandblasting. Many shops have a spark plug sandblaster and there are a few inexpensive models that are designed for home use and available from aftermarket sources. After sandblasting, the electrode should be filed to a sharp, square shape and then gapped to specifications. Gapping a plug too close will produce a rough idle while gapping it too wide will increase its voltage requirement and cause missing at high speed and during acceleration. There are several reasons why a spark plug will foul and you can usually learn what is at fault by just looking at the plug. Refer to the spark plug diagnosis figure in this section for some of the most common reasons for plug fouling. The type of driving you do may require a change in spark plug heat range. If the majority of your driving is done in the city and rarely at high speeds, plug fouling may necessitate changing to a plug with a heat range one number higher than that specified by the car manufacturer. For example, an engine might normally require an R44 plug. Frequent city driving may foul these plugs making engine operation rough. An R45 is the next hottest plug in the AC heat range (the higher the AC number, the hotter the plug) and its insulator is longer than the R44 so that it can absorb and retain more heat than the shorter R44. This hotter R45 burns off deposits even at low city speeds but would be too hot for prolonged turnpike driving. Using this plug at high speed would create dangerous pre-ignition. On the other hand, if the aforementioned engine were used almost exclusively for long distance high speed driving, the specified R44 might be too hot resulting in rapid electrode wear and dangerous pre-ignition. In this case, it might be wise to change to a colder R43. If the truck is used for abnormal driving (as in the examples above), or the engine has been modified for higher performance, then a change to a plug with a different heat range may be necessary. For a modified truck it is always wise to go to a colder plug as a protection against pre-ignition. It will require more frequent plug cleaning, but destructive detonation during acceleration will be avoided.

REMOVAL

See Figures 5 and 6 When you're removing spark plugs, you should work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once because unless you number them, they are going to get mixed up. On some models though, it will be more convenient for you to remove all the wires before you start to work on the plugs. If this is necessary, take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape before you take them off. The time you spend doing this will pay off later when it comes time to reconnect the wires to the plugs. Do not remove spark plugs from a warm engine or damage to the threads may occur. Wait until the engine has sufficiently cooled before attempting to remove the plugs.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery terminal.

On some vehicles covered by this manual, spark plug access will be easier through the wheel well panels. If so, raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove the front wheels, followed by the well panels.
2. Twist the spark plug boot slightly in either direction to break loose the seal, then remove the boot from the plug. You may also use a plug wire removal tool designed especially for this purpose. Do not pull on the wire itself or you may separate the plug connector from the end of the wire. When the wire has been removed, take a wire brush and clean the area around the plug. An evaporative spray cleaner such as those designed for brake applications will also work well. Make sure that all the foreign material is removed so that none will enter the cylinder after the plug has been removed.

If you have access to a compressor, use the air hose to blow all material away from the spark plug bores before loosening the plug. Always protect your eyes with safety glasses when using compressed air.

Fig. Fig. 5: When disconnecting the spark plug wire, ALWAYS grasp the boot, never pull on the wire itself

Fig. Fig. 6: Use a spark plug socket with the necessary extension(s) to loosen and remove the plug
3. Remove the plug using the proper size socket, extensions, and universals as necessary. Hold the socket or the extension close to the plug with your free hand as this will help lessen the possibility of applying a shear force which might snap the spark plug in half. 4. If removing the plug is difficult, drip some penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, WD-40) on the plug threads, allow it to work, then remove the plug. Also, be sure that the socket is straight on the plug, especially on those hard to reach plugs. Again, if the socket is cocked to 1 side a shear force may be applied to the plug and could snap the plug in half.

INSPECTION
See Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 Check the plugs for deposits and wear. If they are not going to be replaced, clean the plugs thoroughly. Remember that any kind of deposit will decrease the efficiency of the plug. Plugs can be cleaned on a spark plug cleaning machine, which can sometimes be found in service stations, or you can do an acceptable job of cleaning with a stiff brush. If the plugs are cleaned, the electrodes must be filed flat. Use an ignition points file, not an emery board or the like, which will leave deposits. The electrodes must be filed perfectly flat with sharp edges; rounded edges reduce the spark plug voltage by as much as 50%.

Fig. Fig. 7: A normally worn spark plug should have light tan or gray deposits on the firing tip

Fig. Fig. 8: A carbon fouled plug, identified by soft, sooty, black deposits, may indicate an improperly tuned vehicle. Check the air cleaner, ignition components and engine control system

Fig. Fig. 9: A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service

Fig. Fig. 10: Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

Fig. Fig. 11: A physically damaged spark plug may be evidence of severe detonation in that cylinder. Watch that cylinder carefully between services, as a continued detonation will not only damage the plug, but could also damage the engine

Fig. Fig. 12: An oil fouled spark plug indicates an engine with worn piston rings and/or bad valve seals allowing excessive oil to enter the chamber

Fig. Fig. 13: Adjusting the spark plug gap

Fig. Fig. 14: This spark plug has been left in the engine too long, as evidenced by the extreme gap-Plugs with such an extreme gap can cause misfiring and stumbling accompanied by a noticeable lack of power

Fig. Fig. 15: A bridged or almost bridged spark plug, identified by a build-up between the electrodes caused by excessive carbon or oil build-up on the plug

Fig. Fig. 16: Spark plugs that are in good condition can be filed and re-used Check and adjust the spark plug gap immediately before installation. The ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the body of the plug) must be parallel to the center electrode and the specified size gauge (see your underhood label first, but if one is not present, check the tune-up specifications chart) should pass through the

gap with a slight drag. Always check the gap on new plugs, too; since they are not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on used plugs, because the reading may be inaccurate. The ground electrode on a used plug is often rounded on the face closest to the center electrode. A flat gauge will not be able to accurately measure this distance as well as a wire gauge. Most gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. This tool may be used to adjust the side electrode until the proper distance is obtained. Never attempt to move or bend the center electrode or spark plug damage will likely occur. Also, be careful not to bend the side electrode too far or too often; if it is overstressed it may weaken and break off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylinder head to retrieve it.

INSTALLATION
1. Inspect the spark plugs and clean or replace, as necessary. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.

Although an effort has been made to supply you with representative gap specifications, the spark plug gap will vary based on the engine and emission package with which your vehicle is equipped. Most vehicles covered by this manual use a 0.040 or 0.035 in. gap. refer to the underhood emission control label to determine the proper specification for your vehicle.
2. Using a feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap to specification. When using a gauge, the proper size should pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the next smaller size should pass freely.

CAUTION Do not use the spark plug socket to thread the plugs. Always thread the plug by hand to prevent the possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head bore.

3. Lubricate the spark plug threads with a drop of clean engine oil, then carefully start the spark plugs by hand and tighten a few turns until a socket is needed to continue tightening the spark plug. Do not apply the same amount of force you would use for a bolt; just snug them in. If a torque wrench is available, tighten the plugs to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).

A spark plug threading tool may be made using the end of an old spark plug wire. Cut the wire a few inches from the top of the spark plug boot. The boot may be used to hold the plug while the wire is turned to thread it. Because the wire is so flexible, it may be turned to bend around difficult angles and, should the plug begin to crossthread, the resistance should be sufficient to bend the wire instead of forcing the plug into the cylinder head, preventing serious thread damage.
4. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.

CHECKING AND REPLACING SPARK PLUG WIRES

See Figures 17 and 18

Fig. Fig. 17: Checking plug wire resistance through the distributor cap with an ohmmeter

Fig. Fig. 18: Checking individual plug wire resistance with an digital ohmmeter Every 15,000 miles, visually inspect the spark plug wires for burns, cuts, or breaks in the insulation. Check the boots and the distributor cap tower connectors. Replace any damaged wiring. Every 30,000-45,000 miles, the resistance of the wires should be checked using an ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will cause misfiring and may make the engine difficult to start in damp weather. Generally, the useful life of the cables is 30,000-45,000 miles. To check resistance, remove the distributor cap, leaving the wires in place. Connect one lead of an ohmmeter to an electrode within the cap; connect the other lead to the corresponding spark plug terminal (remove it from the spark plug for this test). Replace any wire which shows a resistance over 30,000&omega. Generally speaking, it is preferable that resistance be below 25,000&omega, but 30,000&omega must be considered the outer limit of acceptability. It should be remembered that resistance is also a function of length; the longer the wire, the greater the resistance. Thus, if the wires on your car are longer than the factory originals, resistance will be higher, quite possibly outside these limits. Wire length can therefore be used to determine appropriate resistance values:

0-15 in.-3000-10,000&omega

15-25 in.-4000-15,000&omega 25-35 in.-6000-20,000&omega Wire over 35 in.-6000-25,000&omega

If all of the wires must be disconnected from the spark plugs or from the distributor at the same time, be sure to tag the wires to assure proper reconnection. When installing a new set of spark plug wires, replace the wires one at a time so there will be no mix-up. Start by replacing the longest cable first. Install the boot firmly over the spark plug. Route the wire exactly the same as the original. Connect the wire tower connector to the distributor. Repeat the process for each wire. Be sure to apply silicone dielectric compound to the spark plug wire boots and tower connectors prior to installation.