Natural Fibers Cotton Natural Cellulosic Fiber Growth & Production: Cotton plant is a member of Malvacae family.

mily. It is cultivated in warm climates both humid and dry. The cotton blossom, which appears creamy white or light yellow on first day, it changes to pink, lavender, or red on second day. The petals drop off after 48 hours, leaving the boll or seed pod in which the fibers form. 50-80 days later the pod bursts open and fleecy cotton fibers are ready for picking.

Processing: Picking Ginning It is the process where the fiber, called cotton lint (trade name), is separated from the seed. The seeds are valuable by-product of the cotton industry which is used for cattle feed and cottonseed oil. The fibers or cotton lint are packed into large bales at the gin. Each bale weighs about 500 pounds gross. Classification of Fiber The sample is taken from the bales for determining the class. Factors like staple length, the grade and the character of the cotton. Staple length refers to the length of the lint and is determined to some degree by the variety of cotton. Fiber grade depends on color, amount of foreign matter present and ginning preparation. The color can vary from white to gray or yellow. Cotton may be spotted or tinged, bright or dull. Yarn

Cotton Fiber Morphology: A mature cotton fiber has the following six parts. The cuticle is the outer waxy layer, which contains pectins and proteinaceous materials. It serves as a smooth, water-resistant coating, which protects the fiber. This layer is removed from the fiber by scouring. The primary wall is the original thin cell wall. Mainly cellulose, it is made up of a network of fine fibrils (small strands of cellulose), which makes for a well-organized system of continuous, very fine capillaries. It is well known that fine capillaries rob liquids from coarse capillaries. The fine surface capillaries of each cotton fiber contribute greatly to cottons wipe-dry performance.

The winding layer (also called the S1 layer) is the first layer of secondary thickening. It differs in structure from both the primary wall and the remainder of the secondary wall. It consists of fibrils aligned at 40 to 70-degree angles to the fiber axis in an open netting type of pattern. The lumen wall (also called the S3 layer) separates the secondary wall from the lumen and appears to be more resistant to certain reagents than the secondary wall layers. The lumen is the hollow canal that runs the length of the fiber. It is filled with living protoplast during the growth period. After the fiber matures and the boll opens, the protoplast dries up, and the lumen naturally collapses, leaving a central void, or pore space, in each fiber. Throughout the fiber structure, there are variously sized pores or capillary spaces between the variously sized fibrils in each of the six fiber parts. Thus, the cotton fiber can be viewed as a microscopic physical sponge with a complex porous structure. This internal structure makes cotton fibers accessible to liquids and vapors. The capillary action of the fibrils pulls liquid in, where it is held in pores between the fibrils. This structure accounts for cottons wickability and unique absorbing capacity. Chemical Structure of Cellulose:

Fiber Properties: Microscopic Properties: Cotton fibers are composed of outer cuticle and primary wall, a secondary wall, and a central core a lumen. The cross section of the fiber shows these three layers. The contour varies some fibers are nearly circular, some are elliptical and some are kidney-shaped. Immature fibers exhibit thin wall structures and large lumen, while mature fibers have thick walls and small lumen. The longitudinal view of the fiber shows a ribbon like shape with twist (convolutions) at irregular intervals. The diameter of the fiber narrows at the tip.

Cross sectional View Thermal Properties:

Longitudinal View

Cotton burns rapidly and quickly with the smell of burning paper. It leaves a small amount of fluffy gray ash. Long exposure to dry heat above 149C will cause the fiber to decompose gradually and temperatures greater than 246C will result in rapid deterioration. Chemical Properties: Cotton is highly resistant to alkalis; they are used in finishing and processing of fiber. Most detergents and laundry aids are alkaline, so cotton can be laundered in these solutions with no fiber damage. Strong acids destroy cotton, and hot dilute acids will cause disintegration. Cold dilute acids cause gradual weakening, but the process is slow and may not be immediately evident. Cotton is highly resistant to most organic solvents and to all those used in normal care and stain removal. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes the cotton fiber to become yellow and will gradually result in loss of strength. Biological Properties: Cotton is damaged by various microorganisms. Mildew will produce a disagreeable odor and will result in rotting and loss of strength. Silverfish eat cotton cellulose, especially if it is sized.

Physical Properties & Evaluation: Property Shape Evaluation Fairly uniform in width, 12-20 micrometers; length varies from 1 cm to 6 cm ( to 2 inches); typical length is 2.2 cm to 3.3 cm ( to 1 inches). high 3.0-5.0 g/d 3.3-6.0 g/d low 1.54-1.56 g/cm good 8.5% 15-25% 8.5-10.3% 15-27%+

Luster Tenacity (strength) Dry Wet Resiliency Density Dimensional stability Moisture absorption raw: conditioned saturation mercerized: c onditioned saturation

Resistance to acids alkali organic solvents sunlight Damage, weaken fibers microorganisms insects resistant; no harmful effects high resistance to most Prolonged exposure weakens fibers. Mildew and rot-producing bacteria damage fibers. Silverfish damage fibers. Thermal reactions to heat to flame Decomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150C or over. Burns readily.

Applications: Used to make highly absorbent bath towels and robes; denim, used to make blue jeans; and corduroy, seersucker, and cotton twill. Socks, underwear, and most T-shirts are made from cotton. Cotton also is used to make yarn used in crochet and knitting. Fabric also can be made from recycled or recovered cotton that otherwise would be thrown away during the spinning, weaving, or cutting process. While many fabrics are made completely of cotton, some materials blend cotton with other fibers, including rayon and synthetic fibers such as polyester. It can either be used in knitted or woven fabrics, as it can be blended with elastine to make a stretchier thread for knitted fabrics, and things such as stretch jeans. Bedding products, draperies and curtains, upholstery fabrics, rugs and wall coverings.

Medical, surgical and sanitary supplies Industrial abrasives. The leaves and stalks of the cotton plant are also used for soil enrichment by plowing them into the soil.

Safety factors associated with Cotton: Byssinosis, also called mill fever or brown lung disease, is a pulmonary ailment, similar to bagassosis or silicosis that is alleged to develop on repeated inhalation of cotton dust. A small percentage of textile workers exposed to cotton dust contract byssinosis. Incidence of the disease can be controlled with adequate regulation of dust levels in work areas. Fiber Identification of Cotton Fiber: Burning Test: Fiber Cotton Approaching Flame Does not shrink away, ignites on contact In the flame Burns quickly Away from Flame Continues burning with an after glow Odor Smell of burning paper Residue Light, fluffy, grey in color, easy to crush

Chemical Test: S.No. 1. Experiment Take the fiber and dip it in 30-50% Sulphuric acid and heat Take the fiber and dip it in 60% sulphuric acid solution in a test tube and leave it for 5-10 minutes at room temperature Observation The fiber chars and dissolves. Fiber dissolves Fiber does not dissolve (may disintegrate) Inference Cellulosic fiber, could be cotton or rayon Rayon confirmed Cotton confirmed

2.

Silk Natural Protein Fiber Growth & Production: Silk is produced by the larvae of several moths, but the Bombyx mori is the only one raised under controlled conditions. The silkworm extrudes the liquid fiber from two tiny orifices or spinnerettes in its head. As the liquid emerges into the air, it solidifies into silk filaments. The fibers are coated with the gummy substance called sericin. Processing: Reeling: Silk filaments are unwound from the cocoons in a manufacturing plant called a filature. The cocoons are placed in hot water to soften the gum, and the surfaces are brushed lightly to

find the ends of the filaments. The ends are collected, threaded through a guide, and wound onto a wheel called a reel, hence the name reeling. Throwing: As the fibers are combined and pulled onto the reel, twist can be inserted to hold the filaments together. This is called throwing, and the resulting yarn is thrown yarn. Spinning: Short ends of silk fibers from the outer and inner edges of the cocoons and from broken cocoons are spun into yarns in a manner similar to that used for cotton. De-gumming: Sericin remains on the fibers during reeling and throwing. It is left on through the fabric construction process. Before finishing the gum is removed by boiling the fabric in soap and water. The presence of gum or sericin increases the tendency for silk to water spot.

Fiber Properties: Silk is natural protein fiber. The actual fiber protein , called fibroin is composed of about fifteen amino acids hooked together in long molecular chains. Sericin, the gum that holds the filaments together is also a protein substance. Chemical Composition and Molecular structure The protein in silk is fibroin, which contains 15 amino acids in polypeptide chains. Silk has reactive amino (NH2) and carboxyl (COOH) groups. Silk has no cross linkages and no bulky side chains. The molecular chains are not folded as in wool, but are almost fully extended and packed closely together. Thus silk is highly oriented, which gives the fiber its strength. As with all fibers there are some amorphous areas between the crystalline areas, giving silk its elasticity. Microscopic Properties Longitudinal View: Cultivated de-gummed silk resembles a smooth, transparent rod. If gum is still present fiber surfaces are rough and irregular. Wild silk tends to be uneven and darker. It may have longitudinal striations.

Cross-sectional View: It shows triangular fibers with no markings. Two filaments usually lie with their flat sides together. This can be explained by the fact that two filaments are extruded simultaneously by each silkworm. The two filaments are called brins.

Thermal Properties Silk will burn directly in the path of flame. After removal from flame it sputter and eventually extinguish itself. It leaves a crisp, brittle ash and gives off an odor like that of burning hair or feathers. It scotches easily if ironed with temperatures above 149C and white silk will turn yellow if pressed with a hot iron. Chemical Properties Silk is damaged by strong alkalies and will dissolve in heated caustic soda. Weak alkalies such as soap, borax, and ammonia cause little damage to silk unless they remain in contact with the fabric for a long time. While mineral acids can dissolve silk and cause contraction and shrinkage, organic acids do not damage and are used in finishing processes. Rustling and crunching sound is developed by exposure to organic acids. Cleaning solvents and spot removing agents do not damage silk, but chlorine bleaches cause fiber disintegration. Hydrogen peroxide and perborate bleaches can be used safely. Sunlight tends to accelerate the breakdown of silk. Silk is poor conductor of electricity, which results in the buildup of static charges. Like other protein fibers it has lower thermal or heat conductivity than cellulosic fibers. Physical Properties Shape and appearance Fine and long, usually measures 1000 to 1300 yards and can be as long as 3000 yards. Width: 9 to 11 microns. Fibers are smooth, Color: Off-white to cream. Wild silk is uneven and is tan to light brown in color. Luster high, Wild silks have duller luster because of their coarser size, less regular surface, and presence of sericin. Dry: 2.4-5.1, wet: 2.0-4.3 Medium 1.25-1.34 11 92 at 2% extension

Strength-gpd Resiliency Density Moisture absorption 20C, 65% R.H. % elastic recovery

% elongation

Dry: 10-25, Wet: 33-35

Biological Properties Silk resists attack by mildew and most other bacteria and fungi. It is attacked by carpet beetles. Applications: Silk has been queen of fibers for centuries. It is used as luxury fabrics and for high fashion items. Silk offers variety of fabrics, used in sportswear; mens and womens suits, lingerie, dress, blouse and shirt fabrics, and decorator fabrics for home and offices. Fiber Identifying Methods: Silk Curls away from the flame Burns slowly and splutters Self extinguish-ing Smell of burning hair

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