02-03 WRX Clutch Install

02 WRX Clutch install
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Thread: 02 WRX Clutch install

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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:13 PM
#1
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 7,807

Ok I will start this thread here for editing and Travis will move it when we are done! Any input will be great but only 1st hand experience input please! I will try to reverse a lot of post so I can fit everything. If for some reason I do not I might ask you to delete/repost a comment if it is in between instructions to keep it all clean! I AM IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM A PROFESSIONAL AND BY FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!! I did this install by using the STi Performance Clutch Cover Instructions, the instructions that came from the clutch manufacturer and the knowledge from several individuals and their experiences with their Subaru! Besides the full set of Metric wrenches and sockets, tools that you will also have to have are, Transmission Jack, Several Floor stands/Ramps, Mini ton jack, Torque wrench, set of punches, allen wrenches, Hammer, Screw drivers, PB Blast, Copper Gasket Spray, and a cheater bar. For the replacement parts you will need: Medium Thread lock Down pipe gasket Rear exhaust gasket Front axle pins (usually you can reuse these) Grade 8 bolts for Clutch cover, if it hasn't already been upgraded. About 6.5 pints of Subaru Extra S gear oil. (make sure what you need for your model) If you are replacing your gears you will nee the proper gearset for your trans/syncros /bearings. Best to consult whoever is going to build it for you before hand for better info. :thumbs up:
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Over the course of the next several days I will be attaching the pictures and instructions! First off I used the STi Performance Clutch Cover Instructions as a guideline. Some info was hard to understand as the pictures are no good but it is a good reference for tq specs and a general overall procedure! It is easily found on the internet by searching: "Sti Performance Clutch instructions pdf" In google but I have attached and I suggest you print it! To Pull the trans so far has taken me about 6 good hours of work. I was only able to work on it a couple hours a day and ran into some hiccups but feel this should help the first timers. I suggest you plan on working on it all weekend if it is your only car and you must get it done ASAP. I have a truck so was able to take my time and take pictures.
Attached Files STi_PERFORMANCE_CLUTCH_COVER.pdf (718.8 KB, 70 views)
Last edited by wrx_02; 10-08-2009 at 06:55 AM.
02 WRX: Blouch Evo III 16g, Koyo Race Radiator, Walbro 255 FP ,STI TMIC DW 750cc, APS 70mm CAI Grimmsped 3port Boost Solenoid JDm Hoodscoop, Cobb ProTune, Cobb Turbo Inlet Cobb Turbo Shield, invidia DP, STI UP GrimmSpeed P&P manifold,X-pipe N1 catback, ACT Flywheel and Clutch 3" Exhaust Adapter by *Marc*, 18x8.5 Rota SVN's STI Group-N Transmission Mount JDM STi Gearset (REM Treated) Built by: The Calvinator 07 Aprilia RSV 1000R Black! 07 Aprilia SR50 Factory
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:13 PM
#2
OK First thing to do is get the car up on stands or ramps. YOu will need the car pretty high to get the transmission out. I had my car up on ramps front and back but found out this was not high enough and that I need an extra jack to get the side up enough to pull it out. You might need some strong wooden blocks to help.
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After I got the car up I started to remove things from the engine bay first. I followed the steps in the STi PDF attachment from the first post! 1: Disconnect the battery!!! You do not have to remove it you can leave it in. 2: Remove the BOV (it is held on by the 2 bolts and the rubber hose behind it. You will need some pliers to loosen the clamp on the hose to remove it)
3: Remove the TMIC
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Both Side bolts pictures above Also if you can put a bolt back where you got it I recommend it. As it will keep you from miss placing them plus it is less bags to label with bolts in them.
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There are also 2 small hoses by the bolts and 2 larger ones. The main one at the front of the TMIC. And the one that connects to the turbo behind it. YOu will need a flat head screw driver to get these off.
Last edited by wrx_02; 10-07-2009 at 07:19 PM.
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:18 PM
#3
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4. I disconnected the inlet hose from the intake. It does not say you have to do this but I did for the fact that it is bolted to the side wall and if it moved I would not want it to break.
5. I know the picture is out of order but Remove the Turbo Heat shield as this will allow you to get to the Down pipe later for removal! Also when it is gone I would spray the Down Pipe bolts with PB blaster as it will help you later!
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6. Next I disconnected the 3 plugs on top of the transmission. You can only reach them from the engine bay and I also took the ground cable off the fire wall. Both are circled even though you can not see the 3 connectors they are in that area.
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7. I also Disconnected the Engine strap. It is a black bone looking piece that holds the back of the motor to the fire wall. This keeps the engine from titling forward. In the STi pdf it shows them using "Engine Support Assembly - ST 41099AA020" I did not have this part nor did I want to buy it so I used a 1 ton small jack to hold up the front of the motor. DO NOT HOLD IT UP BY THE OIL PAN. YOU NEED TO FIND A PART OF THE BLOCK IN THE FRONT TO SUPPORT IT BY. I put mine between the Cross pipe towards the front of the motor and in front of the oil pan.
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#4
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:19 PM
8. OK Now it is time to remove the starter! First removed the 2 cable that connect to the starter. One is held by a plastic clip and the other is bolted on.
Then remove the 2 bolts holding it to the transmission. 9. After the Starter is removed you have to remove the Fork Release Pin from the side of the transmission. If you do not do this the transmission will never disconnect from the motor.
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To remove it, you have to pull the plug, pictured above, with an allen wrench. Then behind the plug will be the Release Pin
You have to use a 6mm fine threaded bolt to remove it. You will take the bolt and
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screw it into the thread in the center of the pin by hand and then pull it out of the transmission. After the starter and Release pin are removed spray all the transmission/motor bolts with PB Blaster and spray the transmission guide pins by the bolts. It will help you pull it apart later.
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:21 PM
#5
10. Now is time to pull the exhaust. Remember when I told ya to spray the Down pipe bolts down with PB Blaster? The Turbo Heat Shield should be removed already.
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There are 2 bolts on top and the 3 I circled on the bottom. Next I took off the bolts from the back of the Exhaust at the Rear Axle. Then unplug the wire from the O2 sensor pictured below and leave it in the pipe. There will be one final bracket holding the pipe up by the back of the transmission held by a single bolt then the exhaust will be loose.
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O2 sensor on the opposite side of the Transmission. Just follow the wire.
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Never mind my dog he is young and thought the exhaust was attacking me.
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:21 PM
#6
11. Before we pull the drive shaft you should drains the transmission. The drain bolt is the huge bolt at the bottom of the transmission. OK now the drive shaft needs to be
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removed. It will just slide out of the yolk on the back of the transmission but to do it you will have to loosen the bracket holding it in. First remove the 2 bolts from the center holding the front and rear of the drive shaft to the floor of the car. Next pull the cover off the back should be about 6 to 8 bolts and then you will need 2 wrenches to remove it from the rear axle.
If your car is on ramps you will have to have the wheels off the ground to spin the drive shaft. Might be better to have the car on stands at the rear. 12. Now is time to disconnect the shifter linkage. There is the Shifter Rod and the Stay that needs to be disconnected from the back of the transmission.
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The Stay bolt is the one circled and the arrow points to the bolt from the shifter rod behind the Stay. The shifter bolt on mine was very hard to remove once loose. Like the bolt had a lip on it no allowing me to remove it from the linkage after it was loose. So you might need Vice Grips to pull it from the linkage.
13. Ok now is the time to get out the punches and the hammer to remove the front axle. You need to find a punch larger enough to knock the front axle pins out. They come out easier from one end that the other. So if they are giving you a hard time knock out the other end first.
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The front wheels will have to be off the ground so you can spin the axles to access the pins. REMEMBER THAT FRONT JACK SUPPORTING THE ENGINE MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED AS YOU JUST THE CAR UP AND DOWN AND DO NOT LET IT GET INTO A BIND OR YOU WILL BREAK YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS! 14. To slide the axles off the transmission you will have to loosen the front transverse linkage.
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Both bolts that need to be removed are pictured above.

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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:22 PM
#7
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After the bolts are removed you can pop out the joint! The front suspension will drop when this is loose so the front of the car will have to be up by the frame. Once the suspension drops this will allow for the front axles to slide off the transmission. After I got the axles off I reinstalled the 2 bolts, tightened them, and put the front tires back on the ramps. Just let the front axles hang as they will not be in the way too much.
15. Now is time to get the transmission jack out. Get it under the car and ready. You will pull the transmission brace off the transmission. It looks like a giant "H" under the car holding the back of the transmission to the body of the car. It will come off all in one piece. It is connected to the body of the car in 4 areas and connect to the transmission with 2 bolts.
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After it is removed put the transmission jack under the transmission. Make sure and use a strap to hold the transmission to the jack. 16. Next you can unbolt the transmission from the motor. Should be 4 bolts on top and 4 on the bottom. Out of the 4 on top 2 should be pulled out already because of the starter. 17. You might need some help as the transmission is pretty heavy. The more help you can get the better. If all the steps are followed it should pull apart from the motor pretty easy. Might have to pry it off a little but do not force it. If it seems stuck double check that everything was done before fighting it. The Fork arm will have to be fit through the fork arm boot when removing the transmission. Sometimes it will get hung up if you do not watch it. Also make sure your front jack is supporting the motor as it will tilt forward when the transmission is loose.
02 WRX: Blouch Evo III 16g, Koyo Race Radiator, Walbro 255 FP ,STI TMIC DW 750cc, APS 70mm CAI Grimmsped 3port Boost Solenoid JDm Hoodscoop, Cobb ProTune, Cobb Turbo Inlet Cobb Turbo Shield, invidia DP, STI UP GrimmSpeed P&P manifold,X-pipe N1 catback, ACT Flywheel and Clutch 3" Exhaust Adapter by *Marc*, 18x8.5 Rota SVN's STI Group-N Transmission Mount JDM STi Gearset (REM Treated) Built by: The Calvinator 07 Aprilia RSV 1000R Black!
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07 Aprilia SR50 Factory
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:23 PM
#8
18. OK so your transmission is out, you are done cussing and you have a fresh beer. (You deserve it ) You need to remove the pilot bearing and Clutch Cover. The pilot bearing is designed to lock into position. You will need a flat head screw drive as it is designed like 2 rings and you have to separate them to unlock it from the clutch. I played with for about 5 mins and then stumbled upon how it came apart.
It is held on by the outside bolts that go into the flywheel. The Sti pdf states to use "Crankshaft Stopper ST-498497100" I do not have this tool and the clutch cover bolts should not be on any tighter than 30lbs so I have my dad hold the Cover with a screw driver from the engine bay while I broke the bolts loose. This is a picture of the new Flywheel installed but will show how I used a wrench to hold the crankshaft while I broke the flywheel bolts loose or to tighten them.
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Flywheel bolts need medium thread lock on them and the New center bearing from your clutch install kit needs to be pressed into the flywheel before installing.
Torqued to 54lbs (this is in the Sti PDF manual. You can reuse these bolts.)
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Tighten them little by little in a star pattern like the manual states.
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:24 PM
#9
19. Time to install the clutch and clutch cover.
You will put the Clutch alignment tool through the clutch and push it into the bearing
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at the center of the flywheel. The Clutch alignment tool has to be used as it will keep the clutch centered as you torque the Cover on. DO NOT REMOVE THE ALIGNMENT TOOL UNTIL IT IS ALL TORQUED TO SPEC! 20. Take the Clutch Cover and line it up with the pin holes on the flywheel and finger tighten the bolts to start and do not forget to use the Thread Lock! I would recommend using grade 8 bolts for the clutch cover as they can hold a lot more torque. If you are upgrading your clutch chances are you will need these as the clutch manufacturer will call for more torque specs than the Sti pdf for the OEM set up.
Tighten these in a star pattern to 30lbs per the ACT instructions or whatever your manufacturer suggest. The Sti pdf book states to use 12lbs and this is a little light. After all bolts are torqued and double checked. (It is good to double check all of them) Then you can remove the CLutch alignment tool. Per my ACT instructions it states to grease the end of the spindles lightly and wipe away any excess grease as pictured above!
02 WRX: Blouch Evo III 16g, Koyo Race Radiator, Walbro 255 FP ,STI TMIC DW 750cc, APS 70mm CAI Grimmsped 3port Boost Solenoid JDm Hoodscoop, Cobb ProTune, Cobb Turbo Inlet Cobb Turbo Shield, invidia DP, STI UP GrimmSpeed P&P manifold,X-pipe N1 catback, ACT Flywheel and Clutch 3" Exhaust Adapter by *Marc*, 18x8.5 Rota SVN's STI Group-N Transmission Mount JDM STi Gearset (REM Treated) Built by: The Calvinator
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07 Aprilia RSV 1000R Black! 07 Aprilia SR50 Factory
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10-07-2009, wrx_02
Senior Member
12:25 PM
#10
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21. After that You are ready to install the transmission! I took mine to Cobb to have the Calvinator rebuild it with new JDM STi ver6 gear set made by Rallispec: http://www.rallispec.com/prod_trans.htm RST-1141R Type STi Gear Set for 5MT I had to give Calvin the Transmission/New gear set with install kit/New pilot bearing/Fork Release Pin with the plug and the fork. Transmission will come back assembled Saturday and I will start to install her back together. I will take plenty of pictures of the new Transmission and Cobb promised to take some up close shots of the gears for comparison of OEM vs JDM ver6 Sti gears. NOTE: For the RalliSpec RST-1141R Type STi Gear Set for 5MT you might need a new 3rd gear syncro (recommend replacing it anyway.) But depending on which Hub you get you will need the correct syncro to go with the install kit that does not come with it. The 3rd gear HUB that comes in the kit 32605AA180 goes with syncro 32650AA051 (which was discontinued) the New Hub assembly and Syncro are: 32650AA250 syncro and 32605AA350 Hub Check the part numbers of the Hub you receive as the old hub will not be shipped out as it was discontinued but make sure you get the correct syncro.
Last edited by wrx_02; 12-07-2009 at 07:05 AM. Reason: Syncro Part #'s
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Thread: 02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

Attached Files STi_PERFORMANCE_CLUTCH_COVER.pdf (718.8 KB, 70 views)

Last edited by wrx_02; 10-08-2009 at 06:55 AM.

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02 WRX Clutch install

3: Remove the TMIC

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

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02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

Last edited by wrx_02; 10-07-2009 at 08:16 PM.

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02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

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02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

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02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

Both bolts that need to be removed are pictured above.

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02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

07 Aprilia SR50 Factory

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02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

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19. Time to install the clutch and clutch cover.

02 WRX Clutch install

02 WRX Clutch install

07 Aprilia RSV 1000R Black! 07 Aprilia SR50 Factory

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02 WRX Clutch install

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