Wine Varietals Quick Reference

Albariño
Spanish white wine grape that makes crisp, refreshing, and light-bodied wines.
Aligoté
White wine grape grown in Burgundy making medium-bodied, crisp, dry wines with
spicy character.
Amarone
From Italy's Veneto Region a strong, dry, long- lived red, made from a blend of
partially dried red grapes.
Arneis
A light-bodied dry wine the Piedmont Region of Italy.
Asti Spumante
From the Piedmont Region of Italy, A semidry sparkling wine produced from the
Moscato di Canelli grape in the village of Asti.
Auslese
German white wine from grapes that are very ripe and thus high in sugar.
Banylus
A French wine made from late-harvest Grenache grapes and served with chocolate or
dishes with a hint of sweetness. By law the wine must contain 15 percent alcohol.
Barbera
Most successful in Italy's Piedmont region. High acidity, deep ruby color and full body,
with low tannins & berrylike flavors.
Barbaresco
A red wine from the Piedmont Region of Italy, made from Nebbiolo grapes it is lighter
than Barolo .
Bardolino
A light red wine from the Veneto Region of Italy. Blended from several grapes the
wine garnet in color, dry and slightly bitter, sometimes lightly sparkling.
Barolo
Highly regarded Italian red, made from Nebbiolo grapes. It is dark, full-bodied and
high in tannin and alcohol. Ages well.
Beaujolais
Typically light, fresh, fruity red wines from and area south of Burgundy, near Lyons, in
eastern France. Areas: Beaujolais-Blanc, Beaujolais Villages, Brouilly, Chénas,
Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Mouliné-àVent, Morgon, Regnie, Saint Amour.
Blanc de Blancs
Champagne or white wine made from white grapes.
Blanc de Noirs
White or blush wine or Champagne made from dark grapes.
Blush
American term for rosé. Any wine that is pink in color.
Boal or Bual
Grown on the island of Madeira, it makes medium-sweet wines.
Brunello
This strain of Sangiovese is the only grape permitted for Brunello di Montalcino, the
rare, costly Tuscan red. Luscious black and red fruits with chewy tannins.
Cabernet Franc
Red wine grape used in Bordeaux for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon. It is an
earlier-maturing red wine, due to its lower level of tannins. Light- to medium-bodied
wine with more immediate fruit than Cabernet Sauvignon and some of the
herbaceous odors evident in unripe Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Currant, Plum, Black Cherry & Spice, with notes of Olive, Vanilla Mint, Tobacco, Toasty
Cedar, Anise, Pepper & Herbs. Full-bodied wines with great depth that improve with
aging. Cabernet spends from 15 to 30 months aging in American & French Oak
barrels which tend to soften the tannins, adding the toasty cedar & vanilla flavors.
Carignan
Known as Carignane in California, and Cirnano in Italy. Once a major blending grape
for jug wines, Carignan's popularity has diminished though it still appears in some
blends. Old vineyards are sought after for the intensity of their grapes
Carmenere
Also known as Grande Vidure, once widely planted in Bordeaux. Now primarily
associated with Chile. Carmenere, was imported to Chile in the 1850's. Carmenere
has been frequently mislabeled snf many growers and the Chilean government
consider it Merlot.
Cava
Spanish sparkling wine. Produced by the méthode champenoise.
Charbono
Mainly found in California (may possibly be Dolcetto), this grape has dwindled in
acreage. Often lean and tannic. Few wineries still produce it.
Chardonnay
Apple, Pear, Vanilla, Fig, Peach, Pineapple, Melon, Citrus, Lemon, Grapefruit, Honey,
Spice, Butterscotch, Butter & Hazelnut. Chardonnay takes well to Oak aging & barrel
fermentation and is easy to manipulate with techniques such as sur lie aging &
malolactic fermentation.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The most famous wines of the southern Rhône Valley, are produced in and around the
town of the same name (the summer residence of the popes during their exile to
Avignon). The reds are rich, ripe, and heady, with full alcohol levels and chewy rustic
flavors. Although 13 grape varieties are planted here, the principal varietal is
Grenache, followed by Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre (also Vaccarese, Counoise,
Terret noir, Muscardin, Clairette, Piquepoul, Picardan, Rousanne, Bourboulenc).
Chenin Blanc
Native of the Loire where it's the basis of the famous whites: Vouvray, Anjou, Quarts
de Chaume and Saumer. In other areas it is a very good blending grape. Called Steen
in South Africa and their most-planted grape. California uses it mainly as a blending
grape for generic table wines. It can be a pleasant wine, with melon, peach, spice
and citrus. The great Loire wines, depending on the producer can be dry and fresh to
sweet.
Chianti
From a blend of grapes this fruity, light ruby-to-garnet-colored red may be called
Chianti Riserva when aged three or more years.
Chianti Classico
From a designated portion of the Chianti wine district. To be labeled Chianti Classico,
both vineyard and winery must be within the specified region.
Claret
British term for red Bordeaux wines.
Colombard (French Colombard)
The second most widely planted white variety in California, nearly all of it for jug
wines. It produces an abundant crop, nearly 11 tons per acre, and makes clean and
simple wines.
Constantia
This legendary sweet wine from South Africa, was a favorite of Napoleon. It comes
from an estate called Groot Constantia.
Cortese
White wine grape grown in Piedmont and Lombardy. Best known for the wine, Gavi.
The grape produces a light-bodied, crisp, well-balanced wine.
Dolcetto
From northwest Piedmont it produces soft, round, fruity wines fragrant with licorice
and almonds.
Eiswein
"Ice wine," A sweet German wine, made from grapes that have frozen on the vine.
Freezing concentrates the sugars in the grapes prior to harvesting.
Frascati
An Italian fruity, golden white wine, may be dry to sweet.
Fumé Blanc
see Sauvignon Blanc
Gamay
Beaujolais makes its famous, fruity reds exclusively from one of the many Gamays
available, the Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc. Low in alcohol and relatively high in acidity,
the wines are meant to be drunk soon after bottling; the ultimate example of this is
Beaujolais Nouveau, whipped onto shelves everywhere almost overnight. It is also
grown in the Loire, but makes no remarkable wines. The Swiss grow it widely, for
blending with Pinot Noir; they often chaptalize the wines.
Gamay Beaujolais
A California variety that makes undistinguished wines. Primarily used for blending.
Gattinara
A Piedmont red made from Nebbiolo blended with other grapes. Powerful and long-
lived.
Gewürztraminer
A distinctive floral bouquet & spicy flavor are hallmarks of this medium-sweet wine.
Grown mainly in Alsace region of France & Germany, and also in California, Eastern
Europe, Australia, and New Zealand.
Grappa
An Italian spirit distilled from pomace. Dry and high in alcohol, it is an after dinner
drink.
Grenache
Used mainly for blending and the making of Rose and Blush Wines in California, while
in France it is blended to make Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Originally from Spain is the
second most widely grown grape in the world. It produces a fruity, spicy, medium-
bodied wine.
Johannisberg Riesling
See Riesling
Kir
An aperitif from the Burgundy Region of France. A glass of dry white wine and a
teaspoon of crème de cassis make this popular drink. To make Kir Royale, use
champagne or sparkling wine.
Lambrusco
A fizzy, usually red, dry to sweet wine from northern Italy, made from the grape of
the same name.
Liebfraumilch
A blended German white, semisweet and fairly neutral, which accounts for up to 50
percent of all German wine exports.
Madeira
A fortified wine named for the island on which its grapes are grown. The wine is
slowly heated in a storeroom to over 110ºF, and allowed to cool over a period of
months. Styles range from dry apéritifs, from the Sercial grape, to rich and sweet
Boal and Malmsey.
Malbec
Once important in Bordeaux and the Loire in various blends, this not-very-hardy
grape has been steadily replaced by Merlot and the two Cabernets. However,
Argentina is markedly successful with this varietal. In the United States Malbec is a
blending grape only, and an insignificant one at that, but a few wineries use it, the
most obvious reason being that it's considered part of the Bordeaux-blend recipe.
Marc
A distilled spirit made from pomace that is known by different names around the
world. Italy calls it grappa; in Burgundy, Marc de Bourgogne; in Champagne, Marc de
Champagne. Dry and high in alcohol, typically an after dinner drink.
Marsala
Made from Grillo, Catarratto, or Inzolia grapes, this Sicilian wine may be dry or sweet
and is commonly used in cooking.
Marsanne
A full-bodied, moderately intense wine with spice, pear and citrus notes. Popular in
the Rhône & Australia (especially Victoria) has some of the world's oldest vineyards.
California's "Rhône-Rangers" have had considerable success with this variety.
Mead
Common in medieval Europe, a wine made by fermenting honey and water. Wine
makers now making flavored meads.
Meritage
Registered in 1989 with the U.S. Department of Trademarks and Patents by a group of
vintners, who sought to establish standards of identifying red & white wines made of
traditional Bordeaux grape blends. They needed a name for these wines since 75% of
a single variety is not used, therefore the label could not state a particular variety of
grape. Meritage was chosen because it was a combination of two words, merit and
heritage. To be called a meritage, the wine must: Blend two or more Bordeaux grape
varieties: Red wines/ Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Gros Verdot,
Malbec, Merlot, Petite Verdot & St. Macaire. White wines/ Sauvignon Blanc,
Muscadelle and Sémillon. Have less than 90% of any single variety. Be the winery’s
best wine of its type. Be produced and bottled by a United States winery from grapes
carrying a U.S. appellation. Be limited to a maximum of 25,000 cases produced per
vintage.
Merlot
Herbs, Green Olive, Cherry & Chocolate. Softer & medium in weight with fewer
tannins than Cabernet and ready to drink sooner. Takes well to Oak aging. It is
frequently used as a blending wine with Cabernet to soften
Montepulciano
A medium to full-bodied wine, with good color and structure. Known for its quality
and value.
Moscato
see Muscat
Mourvedre
A pleasing wine, of medium-weight, with spicy cherry and berry flavors and moderate
tannins. Often used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Müller-Thurgau
A cross of two grapes, Sylvaner and Riesling. Mainly grown in Germany, Northern
Italy, and New Zealand. Light in color, and can be dry to medium dry.
Muscat
Also known as Muscat Blanc and Muscat Canelli. With pronounced spice and floral
notes it can also be used for blending. A versatile grape that can turn into anything
from Asti Spumante and Muscat de Canelli to a dry wine like Muscat d'Alsace.
Nebbiolo
The great grape of Northern Italy, which excels there in Barolo and Barbaresco,
strong, ageable wines. Mainly unsuccessful elsewhere, Nebbiolo also now has a small
foothold in California. So far the wines are light and uncomplicated, bearing no
resemblance to the Italian types.
Petit Verdot
From the Bordeaux Region of France it is used for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon.
Petite Sirah
Plum & blackberry flavors mark this deep, ruby colored wine. Usually full-bodied with
chewy tannins. Used in France & California as a blending wine. Not related to the
Syrah of France.
Pinot Blanc
Similar flavor and texture to Chardonnay it is used in Champagne, Burgundy, Alsace,
Germany, Italy and California and can make a excellent wines. It can be intense, and
complex, with ripe pear, spice, citrus and honey notes.
Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris
At its best this varietal produces wines that are soft, perfumed with more color than
most other white wines. Grown mainly in northeast Italy, but as Pinot Gris it is grown
in Alsace & known as Tokay.
Pinot Meunier
Grown in the Champagne region of France, it is blended with Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay to add fruit flavors to champagne.
Pinot Noir
This is the great, noble grape of Burgundy. Difficult to grow but at its best it is smooth
& richer than Cabernet Sauvignon with less tannin. Raisin like flavors with undertones
of black cherry, spice & raspberry. Widely used in the making of champagne sparkling
wines.
Pinotage
A cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Grown in South Africa. Fermented at higher
temperatures and aged in new oak for finesse and wonderful berry flavors.
Port
Fortified wine from the Douro region of Portugal. Styles include: Late Bottle (LB),
Tawny, Ruby, Aged, and Vintage. Mostly sweet and red.
Retsina
Dry white Greek wine flavored with pine resin. Dating back to ancient Greece, it is an
acquired taste. Dominant flavor is turpentine. Riesling Flavors of apricot & tropical
fruit with floral aromas are characteristics of this widely varying wine. Styles range
from dry to sweet.
Rosé
Sometimes called blush. Any light pink wine, dry to sweet, made by removing the
skins of red grapes early in the fermentation process or by mixing red and white
Roussane
A white wine grape of the northern Rhône Valley, mainly for blending with the white
wine grape Marsanne.
Sangiovese
Known for its supple texture, medium to full-bodied spice flavors, raspberry cherry &
anise. Sangiovese is used in many fine Italian wines including Chianti.
Sauterns
A blend of mostly Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, affected by Botrytis cinerea,
which concentrates the wine's sweetness and alcohol.
Sauvignon Blanc
Grassy & herbaceous flavors and aromas mark this light and medium-bodied wine,
sometimes with hints of gooseberry & black currant. In California it is often labeled
Fume Blanc. New Zealand produces some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs in a
markedly fruity style.
Sémillon
The foundation of Sauternes, and many of the dry whites of Graves and Pessac-
Léognan. It can make a wonderful late-harvest wine, with complex fig, pear, tobacco
and honey notes. As a blending wine it adds body, flavor and texture to Sauvignon
Blanc. It may be blended with Chardonnay, but does not add much to the flavor.
Sherry
Fortified wine from the Jerez de la Frontera district in southern Spain. Palomino is the
main grape variety, with Pedro Ximénez used for the sweeter, heavier wines. Drier
Sherries are best served chilled; the medium-sweet to sweet are best at room
temperature. Ranging from dry to very sweet, the styles are: Manzanilla, Fino,
Amontillado, Oloroso, Pale Cream, Cream, Palo, and Pedro Ximénez. Shiraz/Syrah
Black cherry, spice, pepper, tar & leather with smooth tannins & supple texture make
this wine a growing favorite. With early drinking appeal it also has the ability to age
well to form more complex wines.
Soave
A straw-colored dry white wine Italy's Veneto Region. Symphony Symphony is a U. C.
Davis clone. In 1948, the Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris grapes were
combined to create this delicate Muscat flavor. It's very distinctive
Tokay
See Pinot Gris.
Traminer
German word for grapes. See Gewürztraminer.
Trebbiano
Trebbiano in Italy and Ugni Blancin France. Found in almost any basic white Italian
wine, and is actually a sanctioned ingredient of the blend used for Chianti. In France,
it is often called St.Émilion, and used for Cognac and Armagnac brandy.
Ugni Blanc
See Trebbiano
Valpolicella
A light, semidry red from Italy's Veneto Region, typically drunk young.
Verdicchio
Italian white that produces a pale, light-bodied, crisp wine.
Viognier
Viognier, is one of the most difficult grapes to grow. It makes a floral and spicy white
wine, medium to full-bodied and very fruity, with apricot and peach aromas.
Zinfandel
With predominant raspberry flavors and a spicy aroma, Zinfandels can be bold and
intense as well as light and fruity. It takes well to blending bringing out flavors of
cherry, wild berry & plum with notes of leather, earth & tar. It is the most widely
grown grape in California. Much of it is turned into White Zinfandel, a blush wine that
is slightly sweet.
Chateau Gloria
Chateau Gloria is somewhat of an anomaly in Bordeaux. It has no official place in the
1855 classification, because it did not exist at that time. It came into being as the
result of one man's desire to own and run a classed growth property. That man was
onetime mayor of St Julien, Henri Martin.
Born at Chateau Gruaud-Larose in 1903, it seems as though Henri Martin was born
into wine. His family had lived around Bordeaux for more than three centuries,
usually earning their keep in the vineyards and cellars of the region. His grandfather
was the maître de chai at the estate, and his father, Alfred, a cooper who
subsequently took on the same role at Chateau St-Pierre, which in the early 20th
Century was run by one of the Bontemps-Dubarry daughters and her husband,
Georges Kappelhoff. But when Kappelhoff died the Martin family had no means of
purchasing anything of significance. The majority of the estate was sold to the Van
den Bussche family, who held tenure at St Pierre until 1982; Alfred had to make do
with only a small plot of vines and the barrel room from which he ran his cooperage,
all that he could afford to buy. He remained a cooper until 1936 when, following a
strike held by his staff, Alfred sold his business and became a grocer instead. It
seemed as though the Martin family were to be divorced
from wine forever.
But this was not to be. In 1942, encouraged by Jean-
Charles Cazes, Henri Martin purchased 6 hectares of
vines in St Julien. This was the beginning of Chateau
Gloria, the name coming from the land on which the
Martin family home was built. His father Alfred, who had
expressed only rage when initially hearing of his son's
rash acquisition, subsequently joined him in his venture,
and they went on to purchase more land, starting with a
piece of the Beychevelle vineyard acquired from Armand
Achille-Fould. Over the years the vineyard expanded to a
very respectable 48 hectares, augmented by parcels
from Léoville-Poyferré, Gruaud-Larose, Léoville-Barton,
St Pierre, Lagrange, Ducru-Beaucaillou and even Duhart-
Milon (a Pauillac property, but they owned a small plot in
St Julien). The reputation of the wine also grew, and Martin often set the scene on the
Bordeaux place with the release price for his wine, which was usually announced
prior to any of the classed growth estates as defined by the 1855 classification.
Despite the origin of his vineyards being exclusively classed growth properties, and
despite the apparent quality of what he offered, Gloria remained firmly outside the
Bordeaux old guard. It should come as no surprise to learn that Martin was one of the
keenest proponents of a revised classification, but it was never going to be. Despite
Martin's popularity, his position of mayor of St-Julien, a role he filled for forty years,
his presidency of the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux and his
leadership of the Commanderie de Bordeaux, an organisation he co-founded, there
have long been too many interested in maintaining the status quo for such a radical
shuffle to get underway. Henri Martin died in 1991, but not before he realised his
ambition to own a classed growth chateau, with the purchase of St-Pierre in 1982.
Today his son-in-law, Jean-Louis Triaud, continues his work at both estates.
The vineyards of Chateau Gloria remain at about 48 hectares in all, with a fairly
typical left bank planting scheme; Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) dominates, and most of
what remains is Merlot (25%), with 5% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The
wine undergoes what can be a long cuvaison, with temperature-controlled
fermentation, before 18 months in oak. There are about 20000 cases of the grand
vin, Chateau Gloria produced per annum. The style of wine is soft and seductive,
yet capable of cellaring well. A much smaller amount - about 4000 cases - of the
second wine, Chateau Peymartin is produced.
The wines of Gloria receive mixed reviews. These are wines made from the fruit of St
Julien vineyards, but I don't think anyone is expecting these wines to match the top
estates from this commune. These are not wines capable of replacing Ducru, Las-
Cases or Gruaud in any cellar. Nevertheless, they have their place. The Gloria label
certainly indicates a good, well made wine that drinks well in many vintages. Tasting
older examples, such as the 1982, shows that not only is the requisite quality there,
but also the ability to age as well as many a classed growth wine. Nevertheless, I
confess that in my opinion some more recent vintages seem worthy rather than
exciting. The 1996 is a good wine that shows the character of the vintage, but the
2000 is a little disappointing when taken in a similar context. A good wine, but I could
not help feeling that maybe it should have been a little more impressive than I found
it to be. It was undoubtedly superior to the 1999 and 2001, but the differential was
less than I would have hoped for. I will broach the 2000 again many times in the
future I am sure, but in the meantime I will look forward to drinking the 1996. (4/9/00,
updated 7/3/07)
Contact details:
Address: Domaines Martin, 33250 St-Julien-Beychevelle
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 08 18
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 16 18
Chateau Gloria -Tasting Notes
2001
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 2001: Closed on the nose. Full, sweet, less impact than
the 2000. Doesn't have the same texture. Plenty of tannin though. Showing very little
on this tasting but has potential. Needs six years. 15+/20 (May 2004)
2000
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 2000: A lovely, intense, stylish, minerally St Julien fruit
on the nose. Full and textured palate, with a ripe, supple tannic structure. Firm
acidity. Complexity of fruit. Certainly has the edge on the 1999. Nevertheless, not as
impressive as many other 2000s I have tasted. Needs five years plus. 16.5+/20 (May
2004)
1999
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1999: An elegant, dark fruit nose. Lovely texture on the
palate. Ripe and supple tannins. really firms up through the midpalate. Good firm
acidity. More dark fruits. This has potential. Needs four to five years. 16+/20 (May
2004)
1996
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1996: Good colour, showing a little maturity but still
with plenty of depth. Lots of bottle stink at first; this needed a good hour or so in the
decanter to blow off, leaving a meaty, organic, wet stone, slightly gamey profile.
Good slightly plump palate, moderately low acidity. Still showing some extract and
texture, and quite a little spread of tannin for structure too. Lean black fruits, a little
chalky, but all round good. Short, grippy finish. This is good, but still on the way up;
needs 3-4 years yet in my cellar. 17+/20 (July 2005)
1992
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1992: A good depth of colour. An attractive cedar and
spice nose. On the palate, soft tannins and pleasant plummy fruit, with correct
acidity. Leads into a clean finish. This wine took me by surprise, and Chateau Gloria is
to be commended for producing such a reasonable wine from this poor vintage. The
best 1992 claret I've had. 14/20 (September 2000)
1988
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1988: Rich fruit, toffee and coffee on the nose. More
fruit on the palate, but very stalky and green. Good tannins, correct acidity, some
more toffee oak, leading onto a tannic endpalate and finish. A definite family
resemblance to the 1982 here. 16/20 (September 2000)
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1988: Beautiful red-purple hue. Nose of black fruit and
spice. On the palate there is cream, black pepper and more spice. Soft tannins and
soft, well integrated vanilla oak. Finishes well, but little length. From a Bordeaux 1988
blind horizontal tasting. 16/20 (May 2000)
1982
Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1982: A purple-mahogany appearance. An obvious
sweet toffee and caramel nose. Sweet, black fruit on the palate, with some attractive
spice. Good tannins through to the finish. This wine sticks out like a sore thumb - it
has to the 1982. 16.5/20 (September 2000)

2003
Very deep ruby, really lovely Cabernet nose, some tobacco leaf flavours,
good length with ripe succulence on the palate and very good structure.

A sexy, smoky nose of tapenade, black cherry jam, cedar, and Asian spices
soars from the glass of this expressive 2003. Once past the flamboyant
aromatics, the wine reveals broad, expansive flavors, medium to full body,
low acidity, and an undeniably exciting style. Consume it over the next
decade. It is a sleeper of the vintage.” – Rated 90, Robert Parker

“Aromas and flavors of berry, currant and toasted oak follow through to a
medium-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a medium finish. Blowsy. Best
after 2009. 20,000 cases made. –JS” – Rated 89

“Ornato” is the name of the estate vineyard owned by the Pio family in Serralunga
d’Alba. “Ornato” is a more modern in style than our traditional Barolo, but still true to
its roots. The characteristics of the soil, the microclimate and favourable exposure,
allows the grapes to become extremely rich. Fermentation at a slightly higher
temperature, together with skin maceration for 12 days, produces a wine with great
soft tannins. The first Barolo “Ornato” was produced in 1985. Since then, it has only
been produced in outstanding years.
Barolo Ornato has a deep crimson red color and its nose exhibis intense fruit scents.
On the palate, the tannins are fat and found, yet also mellow and elegant.
Concentrated flavors of ripe fruit previal with subtle hints of tobacco, chocolate and
pepper, culminating in a rich finish.
Chateau d'Armailhac
Chateau d'Armailhac has a complicated history, not least because proprietors seem to be
persistently undecided as to what the property should be called. For the moment they have
settled on d'Armailhac, reflecting the origins of the estate, which seems fitting, and I imagine that
this name will now endure. It was Dominique d'Armailhacq who created the estate, having
purchased the vineyard from Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, the so called Prince des Vignes,
sometime between 1718 and 1740. The Marquis de Ségur sold his Pauillac vineyards to three
men; those to the north were sold to Joseph de Brane, and these were to be Brane-Mouton,
today known as Mouton-Rothschild. Those to the south were acquired by François de Pontet, and
today these are Pontet-Canet. Those inbetween came to Dominique, and these vineyards were to
become the d'Armailhac that we know today. Following his acquisition, Dominique expanded the
estate, and his acquisitions included the buildings at Chateau Brane-Mouton. Clearly not one to
let a marketing opportunity pass by, Dominique duly renamed his estate Chateau Mouton-
d'Armailhacq. Of the vineyards acquired, perhaps the most significant was the Carruades croupe,
one of the better sites in the commune of Pauillac. Mouton d'Armailhacq was clearly an estate to
be reckoned with, although records suggest that it still languished in the shadows of its more
illustrious neighbours.

Over the ensuing years the estate passed from one family member
to the next - although often by some rather bizarre routes -
contracting and expanding as it did so, as vineyards were either
sold off or acquired. After Dominique the estate came to his
successors, two brothers, one of whom was Odet d'Armailhacq.
These two were not seemingly as astute as Dominique, and by
1843 they were forced to sell the estate as a result of financial
difficulties consequent upon the imposition of tariff barriers affecting
the export of the wines. Odet sold the estate, only for it to be
purchased by his estranged wife, who held her own fortune, in
1844. Upon completion of the deal, she immediately sold the
Carruades croupe in order to ease the financial burden, selling the
vineyard to Chateau Lafite. The estate duly passed to her son,
Armand d'Armailhacq, who was an instrumental figure in improving
quality at Chateau d'Armailhac, and across Bordeaux as a region.
His thoughts were put down in his book La Culture des Vignes dans
le Médoc; he was a strong advocate for the use of Cabernet
Sauvignon over other Bordeaux varieties such as Petit Verdot and Malbec, of better care in the
vineyard and modern practices in the chai. His efforts were rewarded in 1855, when the property
was ranked as a cinquième cru in the 1855 classification of the Médoc. The property continued to
flourish, but with the advent of the 20th Century times were hard, as they were for all Bordeaux,
and all France. After Armand's death the business was run by brother-in-law Comte Adrien de
Ferrand, until his descendent Roger sold the estate, together with his recently created négociant
business, to Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1933.

Baron Philippe changed the name of d'Armailhacq to Mouton-Baron-Philippe, and the name of
the négociant business to Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA; this latter acquisition allowed the
development of new lines, including a generic Bordeaux which today is one of the most widely
recognised Bordeaux brands in the world, Mouton Cadet, initially a route by which Baron Philippe
sold off the wines of the unsuccessful 1930, 1931 and 1932 vintages. Under Philippe's direction
the chateau - a strange affair, never fully completed and so looking like half a house - was
renovated, and the vineyards replanted. With this latter action the area covered by vines actually
fell, starting off at 75 hectares, but reaching a sorry low of just 32 hectares by 1960. The chai,
long overdue for renovation, was finally renewed in 1968, with two storeys, the fruit of the harvest
accepted onto the upper level before making its way towards the fermentation vats. By 1976
plantings were up again, with continued investment by the Rothschilds, but by now it was time for
another name change; Philippe wanted Chateau Baronne-Pauline, out of respect for his
deceased wife, but permission was not granted. Philippe settled for Mouton-Baronne-Philippe,
nothing more than a change of gender. Although these changes were signs of great sentiment,
the whole process only served to confuse. The subsequent decision by Philippe's daughter,
Philippine, who now heads the family business, to revert to Chateau d'Armailhac (dropping the 'q'
at the end) was a most sensible one.

Today the property comprises 50 ha of land under vine, with more being planted, so the
expansion of the late 20th Century continues. There are three principle vineyards, including the
26 hectare Plateau des Levantines et de L'Obélisque, an extension of the Carruades croupe,
where gravel reigns supreme, the 19 hectare Plateau de Petit Pibran, which has soils of sand and
chalk over a limestone base, and Le Croupe de Béhéré, 5 hectares of light gravel up to three
metres deep in places. They are planted at a density of 8500 vines/ha, with 57% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, with an average age of 47
years, although some sections of the vineyard are easily a century old. Tending the vineyards and
making the wine is down to the team at Mouton-Rothschild. Fermentation temperatures are
allowed to rise quite high, blending follows malolactic fermentation, and the wine spends 16
months en barrique, of which about 30% are new, the remainder being old Mouton barrels. The
result is Chateau d'Armailhac (typically 22000 cases per annum) and as with Clerc-Milon, there
is no second wine.

Chateau d'Armailhac is perhaps the least well known Bordeaux property in the Rothschild
portfolio. The style is a little different to the other wines; it is certainly less masculine than Clerc-
Milon, perhaps because of the greater proportion of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, a blend which
can allow the wine to excel in vintages when others may not. A case in point is the 1999, a superb
wine in a good but not superlative vintage. Unfortunately, the wine is not perhaps such good
value as it once was, due to recognition of the increased quality in recent years. (10/2/05, updated
20/3/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 20
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 73 20 44
Internet: www.bpdr.com

Chateau d'Armailhac - Tasting Notes

2005

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2005: There are some deliciously lively aromatics here, this
wine possessing a pure, crunchy, slightly smoky redcurrant and cranberry nose. It is very finely
composed on the palate, with a very ripe and rounded nature, and with plenty of substance
despite the crisp character of the nose. This firm, meaty presence of fruit is wrapped around a
core of delightfully ripe tannins. This has great potential. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 17.5+/20 (October 2007)

2004

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2004: An appealing, rather crisp, red fruit nose here, with some
rather obvious sweet oak showing alongside. A well composed, somewhat traditional structure,
with some admittedly rather ripe, supple tannins which sit well with the fruit, which has a light feel
to it. Moderate acidity. This should age well, but I much prefer the Clerc-Milon from this stable.
From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2006)

2003

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2003: Another wine very typical of the vintage, with some dark,
exotic, confit cherry fruit. A sweet and rounded texture on the palate, lots of extract, lots of depth,
but lots of firm structure too. Big, impressive if you like the style. All the necessary components
are here. It is a good showing for the vintage as it has a touch more balance than many, but will it
last? 17+/20 (November 2006)

2001

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2001: Rather a surprising youthful character on the nose here,
this wine still demonstrating a vein of oak even at this age. The palate is very nicely done, though,
a little meaty, with some crisp fruit and hints of emerging complexity. All the components are
nicely balanced although I find the tannins rather firm. Will make for good drinking though.
16.5+/20 (November 2006)

1999

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1999: Youthful colour. Obvious and attractive youth on the
nose, brimming over with coffee, tarry treacle toffee and blackcurrant aromas. Full palate, with
coffee notes again, and firm, fresh acidity. Intense and concentrated, with pure black fruits and
ripe, firm tannins. Voluptuous and seductive. Delicious, with lovely potential. A tremendous effort
for this vintage. Needs five years but should be beautiful when mature. 17.5+/20 (February 2005)

1994

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1994: Some maturity on the colour. Meaty and menthol again, a
little sooty, with some dark black fruits. Not as giving on the nose as the other two wines here. A
full, moderately fleshy palate, underpinned by very firm, drying tannins and concentrated fruit.
Develops a rich svelteness with time, with rose-petal and tar nuances. Certainly has some charm
so it's a good result for this vintage. 16.5+/20 (February 2005)

1992

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1992: This has a promising density of colour, still with a
youthful, red-purple appearance. Typically Pauillac on the nose, with a mineral and graphite edge
to the blackcurrant fruit. On the palate a surprising level of extract, which provides some good
curranty flavours. Nevertheless it cannot hide the somewhat dilute, thin body of the wine,
reflecting the difficult vintage conditions. With soft tannins and low acidity it strikes a good
balance, although as you would expect from a weak vintage it has a very short finish. Overall,
though, this is charming, perhaps even elegant. 13.5/20 (October 2001)

1990

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1990: This is a dark, garnet red hue with a tawny rim. Quite
closed on the nose, offering just hints of sweet, roasted fruits. Very nicely structured on the
palate, tannins just in the finish. Lovely roundness, rich texture, complete, with sweet and spicy
fruits. Firm rather than lush. Drinking well now. From a 1990 Bordeaux horizontal tasting. 17/20
(May 2003)
1989

Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 1989: Mature colour. Menthol and spice, meaty-iron nose. Full,
meaty palate with some spicy tannins and firm acidity. Round, fleshy texture. Great purity of
mature flavour. Lovely drinking now, certainly ready, but there is still some structure and the
necessary texture and acid to further improve in the cellar. Drink now and over the next ten years.
16.5/20 (February 2005)
Chateau Brane-Cantenac
The history of Brane-Cantenac may be traced as far back as at least the early 18th Century, at
which time it was in the ownership of the Gorce family, and was known as Chateau Gorce (and
for a while as Chateau Gorce-Guy). The family had acquired the estate probably around 1735,
and were clearly active in the area of viticulture. Under the aegis of Marie-Françoise Gorce the
estate expanded from 35 to 40 hectares, and the price rose steadily towards the end of the
century, a sure sign that Brane-Cantenac was recognised as a source of good quality wine. The
Tastet and Lawton archives, to which the eminent Clive Coates frequently refers in Grands Vins,
shows that during the mid-18th Century Chateau Gorse [sic] was sold for an average price of 686
livres per tonneau (one tonneau is 900 litres), comparable to that for Brane-Mouton (now Mouton-
Rothschild) and Gruaud, at 716 and 734 respectively. Subsequently, the estate was consistently
ranked as a second growth, by André Simon in 1800, Wilhelm Franck in 1845 and of course the
classification that seems to have stuck for all eternity, the 1855 classification, drawn up for the
Exposition Universelle de Paris, at the request of Emperor Napoleon III, by the Bordeaux
Chamber of Commerce. It seems that opinion on the wines of this estate were quite consistent
then, so one is left wondering about the estate today. Brane-Cantenac, quite simply, doesn't live
up to its 18th and 19th Century reputation.

It was 1833 when the estate was acquired by

Baron Hector de Brane, a figure of significant
local repute, having been largely responsible for
the identification of Cabernet Sauvignon as the
Médoc's number one grape, and being dubbed
the Napoléon des Vines by his peers. The estate
must have been a great attraction to him, as he sold Brane-Mouton to finance the sale, which in
itself would suggest that Chateau Gorce was indeed of great renown, or had significant potential,
or even both. He renamed the estate Brane-Cantenac in 1838, and this was the name under
which the estate was classified in 1855, and is also the name that remains today. There are some
authors that suggest, in view of the wines of the modern era, Brane-Cantenac was ranked as a
deuxième cru, a higher classification than was perhaps really warranted, because of the influence
of its famous proprietor. I am aware of no evidence for such allegations, which as well as being ill-
founded seem to ignore Brane-Cantenac's consistently high ranking over several classifications,
over many decades. Under Baron Hector's tenure, the vineyard expanded and production
increased. The chateau, at that time a small construction dating from the 17th Century, went
largely untouched.

The estate was bequeathed by Baron Hector to Jacques-Maxime, who subsequently sold it to a
group led by Gustave Roy, who also owned d'Issan, accompanied by his wife and two brothers-
in-law. Here, as in almost every chateau profile I write, is where the rot probably began to set in.
The late 19th Century saw a sequence of vineyard disasters, phylloxera and oidium, compounded
by war and economic depression, and it is likely that it was here that the quality began to drop off.
In 1919 the group sold the chateau, which had been rebuilt in the 19th Century, and vineyards to
the Société des Grands Crus de France, a consortium that also owned Margaux, the
aforementioned d'Issan and Durfort-Vivens. It was following the dissolution of this company in
1925 that the estate came into the hands of the current owners, when it was purchased by a
shareholder named Léonce Recapet and his son-in-law, François Lurton. From François Brane-
Cantenac came to his son, Lucien, when the family holdings were divided amongst Lucien's
generation. Despite initial difficulties, not least the devastating frost of 1956 which wiped out
many of the vines, Lurton expanded and improved. In 1992 the wheel turned full circle when once
again the family holdings were divided up, and Brane-Cantenac then passed to Henri Lurton, who
 had worked at the estate since 1986, and today remains the
incumbent proprietor.

The vineyards of Brane-Cantenac now cover 90 hectares in

several plots in the Margaux appellation; the first and largest
plot, covering 45 hectares, is adjacent to the chateau on the
Plateau de Brane. The next largest, with an area of 22
hectares, is to the north near Soussans. The final two are a 13
hectare plot to the south near Arsac named Chateau Notton
(acquired from the d'Angludet estate), a name which is now
applied to the third wine of Brane-Cantenac, and a 10 hectare
plot on the opposite side of the D105, which runs between
Margaux and Arsac. The terroir is typically gravelly, with deeper seams of sand and clay. The
vines are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, accounting for around 65% of the vineyard, with
Merlot an increasingly important part of the landscape at 30%, and Cabernet Franc just 5%.
There were previously small areas of Petit Verdot, just 2% of the vineyard as documented in my
original chateau profile published in 2004, but these have now been pulled up. The planting
density is fairly typical of Bordeaux, up to 8500 vines/ha in some vineyards, whilst yields are low
at 45 hl/ha. Harvest is by hand, the fruit coming into the Brane-Cantenac chai which was
refurbished in 1997. After a cold soak the must is fermented in a variety of vessels, steel, wood
and cement, all temperature-controlled. The maceration lasts 28 days, with pumping over to
submerge the cap, followed by malolactic fermentation in barrel, using predominantly Alliers and
Tronçais oak, 50% new each vintage, for up to 18 months. It is racked every three months, fined
and filtered before bottling. Overall, production lies in the region of 30000 cases per annum. The
grand vin is Brane-Cantenac, the second wine is Baron de Brane. There is also a wine made
from the aforementioned plot entitled Chateau Notton, as well as a generic Margaux.

Tasting the wines today, it is vital that we taste them within a context, the context of Bordeaux,
and the context of Brane-Cantenac's peers. These are typically and identifiably Bordeaux, and for
that reason the wines have, over the years, had their admirers. Often described as consistent,
elegant or graceful, authors such as David Peppercorn have spoken up in favour of Brane-
Cantenac in the past. But there have been naysayers too; both Parker and Coates have meted
out criticism, justifiably so in my opinion. On this issue, I would join their party. The wines are
indeed elegant and consistent, but at the second growth level we expect something more than
this. We expect concentration, depth, complexity, vigour, a higher quality of tannins, silkiness
even, and longevity. Comparison with other deuxièmes crus sows us that these features,
available in many other wines at this level, may be absent in Brane-Cantenac. With just ten years
under his belt, however, the relatively youthful Henri Lurton still has plenty of time to make a
difference at Brane-Cantenac, and having tasted some recent vintages I certainly think there is
some movement here, as evinced by the 2004, although I also think this was a strong and
consistent vintage for Margaux as a whole. But there is still much work to do. (19/2/04, updated 11/4/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Brane-Cantenac, 33460 Margaux
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 88 83 33
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 88 72 51
Internet: www.brane-cantenac.com

Chateau Brane-Cantenac - Tasting Notes

2006

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2006: A lot of character here, which is good. A firm and
nutty style, rather perfumed, almost to the level of being soapy. Rather chalky palate, all structure
and no flesh. Rather bare tannins. This wine lacks flavour, character and concentration. From my
2006 Bordeaux assessment. 12-13/20 (April 2007)

2005

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2005: A tasting sample drawn off in April 2007. The wine
was decanted for one hour and then consumed over the next few hours, before what little
remained was kept back 24 hours for the next day - it held up well to this treatment. In the glass
this wine has, unsurprisingly, a rather dense and certainly glossy hue. The nose is quite exotic,
with notes of spices, pepper and sandalwood. With this there is a fine concentration of fruit,
showing a more intense cassis and blackcurrant than the red fruits which seemed to dominate in
October. Whatever the character of the fruit, there is plenty of it, and on the palate it is presented
in a very pure, direct, detached style. It is a wine with plenty of substance, and although I can
sense the ripe tannins, they are well covered by the fruit and body of the wine and, incredulously,
I can drink this wine now with pleasure. It has a fabulous intensity of flavour, ripe and yet
restrained, with no over-the-top texture or force. Nicely composed on the finish. On the next day
almost no different - a little acetic note although this dissipated in minutes and the fun then
continued. This is a really good vintage for fans of Brane-Cantenac. For label images and more
see my Wine of the Week write-up. 17-17.5+/20 (December 2007)

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2005: A very appealing and pure style, with good fruit, still
with some nutty oak, but overall very serious and appropriate. It has a ripe, rather flashy style on
the palate, but with a very fresh redcurrant fruit profile, with some rather herby fruit. It is rather
soft and elegant, but still with a little masculine structure underneath, and there is more substance
here than in many other vintages of Brane-Cantenac. Very good. From my tasting of 2005
Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5-17+/20 (October 2007)

2004

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2004: Slightly muted nose, but still displaying a good
amount of fruit and perfume. On the palate a wall of tannin; there is good, ripe fruit and texture
but it is a little overwhelmed by the structure. But doesn't feel stretched or over-extracted. This will
need plenty of cellar time. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16-17+/20 (October 2006)

2003

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2003: This has a more open and immediately appealing
nose, with good fruit and some attractive oak. It is rather subdued. It has the tannins of the
vintage, but not obtrusively so. There is nice flavour, it has a good balance, with a grippy finish.
Some depth and it has a little more focus. Certainly superior to the 2002. Some success for
Brane-Cantenac in this vintage, it seems. 16+/20 (February 2007)

2002

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2002: An elegant colour. Interesting nose, not quite closed
down, but restrained, with just a little blackberry fruit. Soft, quite rounded, rather gentle, not really
very well focussed. Lacks vivacity. It has a nice grip, although overall it is soft. Decent acidity.
Some appealing flavour. But overall it lacks impact and class. I don't think it has great potential.
14.5/20 (February 2007)

2001
Le Baron de Brane (Margaux) 2001: Sweet fruit on the nose, with a dense, peppery, canned
strawberry character. A full, sweet texture on the palate, with some grippy tannin and low acidity.
Dense, dark fruit flavour profile. Simple wine, but certainly very drinkable. Good. (November
2003)

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2001: An impressive nose, packed with dense fruit. Firm
structured, rounded and full-bodied. There is some texture, but it is a little hidden behind the firm
structure at present. Good sweet fruit though. One for the cellar. Good, potentially very good.
(November 2003)

1996

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 1996: An edge of perfumed fruit on the nose here, on the
back of firm, earthy, gravelly character. A lovely palate, very 1996 in character, with smooth
Cabernet fruit, a stylish, not quite creamy texture, good tannic structure and balanced acidity.
There is elegance here too. Very good, excellent potential. (November 2003)

1989

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 1989: This wine has the deepest colour by far. The nose
seems rich, austere and complex. This is a big and rich wine. A fruit-packed palate, with a
massive structure. There are tannins everywhere, matched by good acidity. This is a wine built for
the long haul, and still very much on the way up. This needs five to ten years at least. From a
Bordeaux 1989 blind horizontal tasting. 17.5+/20 (January 2002)

1961

Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 1961: This wine has a remarkably pale appearance, and is
starting to brown. A sweet, meaty, slightly mushroomy nose with later notes of coriander leaf
(unusual!). A nice weight, balanced, a little richness, it has a good presence but isn't really that
light on its feet. Interesting notes of rhubarb later on. A bit of vigour on the finish, which has a
sweet, slightly grippy style. Good, and a pleasant surprise from this second growth which has had
a reputation for under-performing in the past. From a 1961 Bordeaux tasting. 15/20 (April 2007)