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Wiring ......................................................................................................................................................... 8
General recommendations .................................................................................................................................................. 8 Direct connection to battery ............................................................................................................................................... 9 CCPWM connection. Recommended configuration .......................................................................................................... 10 Finding an ignition switched source connection ............................................................................................................... 10 Automotive relay connection ............................................................................................................................................ 11 Connecting an AMP meter................................................................................................................................................. 11
Maintenance............................................................................................................................................... 13
Maintaining proper electrolyte temperature and current ................................................................................................ 13 Electrode maintenance ...................................................................................................................................................... 14 Electrode life ...................................................................................................................................................................... 14 Cleaning the generator ...................................................................................................................................................... 14 Dealing with heat ............................................................................................................................................................... 15 Dealing with cold. Winter operation ................................................................................................................................. 15
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Safety
1. Most important is eye protection. 2. The mixture you will be using can be near the high end of the pH scale - highly alkaline. It will react with your skin and potentially cause a skin irritation. We strongly recommend using rubber gloves. 3. Do not use this device anywhere you cannot tolerate a spill. Pets, children and guests create unpredictable circumstances. 4. This unit produces hydrogen and oxygen in stoichiometric (perfect) proportions. It has been referred to as boom gas for a reason. If you are collecting the gas, for example in a balloon, take care that it does not ignite. It sounds like a canon! 5. Keep away from children 6. The use of a flash back arrester is recommended.
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7. Find a 12 volt electrical source. Preferably an ignition switched 12 volt electrical point to power the generator. Or better still, if you are using electronics such as a Green Source PWM, EFIE combo or ProTuner, you can take advantage of our simplified wiring, explained later in this manual. 8. Determine where you would like to position the illuminated toggle switch for interior control of the HHO system.
Electrolytes overview
HHO generation requires the electrolysis of water. Electrolysis is dependent on current flow, which in turn is dependent upon the conductivity of the water. Since water is a non conductor, you need to add electrolytes (chemicals) to increase current flow up to a usable rate. 1 table spoon KOH, NaOH = 15 ml = 30g 1 tea spoon KOH, NaOH = 5 ml = 15g In order of increasing strength, which also means increased efficiency and personal hazard, they are: Sodium Hydroxide NaOH NaOH, also called lye, it is a very efficient electrolyte, highly conductive and CAUSTIC. It is used mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of pulp and paper, textiles, drinking water, soaps and detergents and as a drain cleaner. Pure sodium hydroxide is a white solid; available in pellets, flakes, granules and as a 50% saturated solution. It is very soluble in water with liberation of heat. Find this in agriculture stores or in grocery stores labelled Red Devil drain cleaner. NaOH is also available at industrial chemical suppliers and good hardware stores. Potassium Hydroxide KOH KOH is most efficient of the commonly used electrolytes, some 40% better than NaOH. It is considered a dangerous good and subject to shipping regulations in most countries. Available on eBay and online chemical distribution centers KOH is an inorganic compound. Along with sodium hydroxide, this colorless solid is a prototypical "strong base".
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S et up an d us e
Installation of the generator Connection to the air intake Installation of the flashback arrestor Carbureted vehicles
Determine what electrolyte (chemical) is best suited to your application. KOH/NaOH is the preferred choice. Mix 2 tablespoons of NaOH or 1.5 tablespoons KOH in 1 litre of distilled water in a large plastic container. Once MIXED, pour into the generator. The mixing container should be considered non fit for food and beverages afterwards Replace the black threaded fill cap and finger tighten only. The refill cap has tapered threads intended for sealing, therefore it will NOT thread all the way in. Rotate two full revolutions as described, do not over tighten it. Install the Generator near front of the vehicle for best air circulation and cooling. It should be positioned lower than the reservoir to allow gravity feeding of the water supply. Hoses and wires should be neatly and safely routed away from heated engine components and moving parts. HHO hose and flashback arrestor are mounted close to the engine in the air intake. No movement of the generator should be possible to prevent vehicle vibrations from making a hole in the generator. Green Source SuperKit www.greensource.ca Page 5
It is strongly recommended to inject the HHO BEFORE the vehicles air cleaner. This way any particles of electrolyte will become trapped and will not enter the engine. If you cannot route through the air filter of your vehicle, then an additional dryer or a fine particle filter can be added in line to the HHO hose. Install the HHO BEFORE the turbo charger if present. Feed 1 inch of the hydrogen hose into the hole, secure the hose with tie wraps and seal the hole with silicone to prevent leaks. Silicone should sit two hours to dry before starting the engine. Do not force any hose or other connecting device over the output port. The HHO barbed fitting fits a inch vinyl hose quite easily, without the need for additional clamping
A Flash Back/Check Valve is always recommended. It could prevent your engine from sending a flame back into the HHO generator, in the unlikely event that it back fired.
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Test the valve for flow direction before installing it by blowing through it. It will block air/gas flow in the reverse direction. Flow is towards the wider half of the body. See a typical flashback arrestor installed at left
Carbureted vehicles
Carbureted Vehicles do not have air tight ducts to inject HHO into. If you try to inject into the air filter, your HHO will float away unused. The HHO hose can be routed through the PCV hose with a tee connector. This is for Positive Crankcase Ventilation and will draw the hydrogen directly inside the carburetor and engine, where it cannot escape. Alternatively, you can find a low vacuum connection, possibly on the rear of the carburetor, and connect the HHO directly.
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W i ri ng
Green Source HHO generators operate at 10-15 amps, other generators require up to 30 amps. Care must be taken in wiring not to overload existing circuits or blow fuses while driving.
General recommendations Direct connection to battery CCPWM connection Wiring to the fuse box Automotive relay connection Connecting an AMP meter
General recommendations
Green Source HHO generators operate at 10-15 amps, other generators require up to 30 amps. Care must be taken in wiring not to overload existing circuits or blow fuses while driving. Soldered connections are far better and more reliable than crimp connectors, especially within circuits greater than 10 amps. Nylon inserted locking nuts will never loosen and create a more reliable, permanent connection to the ProKit electrical contacts than do thumb nuts. For permanent installations, we suggest locking nuts on all electrical connections. It is strongly recommended to use a CCPWM to avoid overheating. If you do not have PWM, start with 50% of the amount of chemicals recommended and monitor the current with an AMP meter. Set to 7 amps as a starting current for small 4 cylinder cars (1.0 litre) and up to 20+ amps for large V8s (6-7 litres). See www.greensource.ca It is important to maximize air flow, so the internal temperature of the generator does not exceed 80C, or damage to the generator may occur. The outside of the generator should never be hot to touch, only warm. Attach the power wires, toggle switch and fuse, secure with thumb nuts, and connect to a switched electrical source. The fuse should be as close to the power source (ie. battery) as possible. The toggle switch may be installed in the ignition switched power line and can be installed in a convenient location, such as inside the passenger compartment.
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Most important: Confirm your current setting with the engine running. If you do not have between 7-15 amps (depending on engine size), you cannot expect to have proper economy gains. If you cannot measure current, at minimum, confirm you have bubbles coming from the generator. Do this by placing the HHO hose into a glass of water, you should see 2-5 bubbles/second. If your current is too low, either add more chemicals or turn up your CCPWM.
The simplest method is to connect directly to the battery through a toggle switch. Advantage: No existing circuits are disturbed and the battery can source all the power required for HHO. Disadvantage: It is only a matter of time until you forget to turn off the HHO switch when you shut off your engine. This will allow HHO to keep producing and accumulating in the air intake of your vehicle, resulting in an unsafe situation. This configuration is great for set up and testing, but we do not recommend it for day to day use.
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Use our Constant Current Pulse Width Modulator (CCPWM) and take advantage of the simple wiring and the best configuration possible. Advantages: No existing circuits are disturbed and the battery can source all the power required for HHO. The PWM shuts off the HHO when the vehicle is not running. Only an extremely small current is required to control the PWM (1/100 amp), so it can be connected into any ignition switched circuit. Disadvantage: Higher initial cost, but returned as increased efficiency gains.
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Advantage: Extremely inexpensive and safe as you cannot forget to switch off your HHO. Disadvantage: Must be connected correctly or you can overload a circuit.
If you do not have or require a PWM, then an automotive relay can be an inexpensive way to simplify your wiring. Relays typically cost $3-5 USD at any automotive part store and will have numbered pins on the bottom as shown above. Note: The toggle switch is optional in this case and +12VDC ignition could connect directly to pin 86 Advantage: Inexpensive and safe. Eliminates the chance of overloading a circuit. Disadvantage: None, assuming you do not require a CCPWM.
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M a i n te n a n c e
Maintaining proper electrolyte temperature and current Electrode maintenance Electrode life Cleaning the generator Dealing with heat Dealing with cold. Winter operation
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The quantities listed in this section are guidelines only and will vary somewhat depending on the installation, airflow and chemical mixtures used. The maximum output of your HHO generator will depend on how much convection (air flow) you have around the generator to keep it cool.
Electrode maintenance
Distilled water is best. Otherwise there will be more electrode cleaning to do. Do not use water with a heavy mineral content as the calcium or lime will corrode and form deposits on the electrode pack. This will slowly form a short circuit, draw more current and have wasted heat inside the generator to contend with. Heat is your enemy. The unfortunate problem with 12 volt electrolysis is that the majority of electrical energy used goes into heat production, not electrolysis. While more current makes more hydrogen, we always need to be mindful of the heat not to have a mishap. This high efficiency electrode pack was designed to double the hydrogen output for any given current consumption and lower wasted heat dissipation.
Electrode life
If you take the time to clean and prepare the electrode in your HHO generator PRIOR to usage, it will last significantly longer. The following procedure is called Passivation Mix 1 litre of water with lemon juice, nitric or citric acid and pour into the generator. Rinse and soak overnight, shaking 3-4 times during the process. Heated solutions (60C) work better. Further electrode life is attained by Activation. In a well ventilated environment, run the generator for 24 hours at 2 amps. This creates an oxide layer that protects the plates. Alternatively, simply turn down the flow rate to 2 amps using a weak NaOH solution or by using PWM. Drive for at least 12 hours before increasing the flow rate. This process goes against our impatience to get started and see economy gains, but is worth it. You can contact Green Source for more information or do a simple Google search.
Solution will turn almost black. Empty the generator. Fill and empty the unit with cool tap water 6-8 times or until there are no particles coming out. Do this infrequently because it is a corrosive process for the stainless electrode that shortens its life.
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
32
25
20
-5
-10
-20
-35
-70
-130
Then add your normal amount of NaOH/KOH to achieve the necessary amps/HHO flow.
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KOH/NaOH is recommended on larger engines (>3.0 Litres) during winter months. If using KOH or NaOH, very low freezing points can be achieved by increasing the concentration of chemicals. The results are similar for both chemicals. 2. Alternatively, use a strong solution of KOH/NaOH as follows: Simply put, each rounded tablespoon (40g) of KOH will lower the freezing point of one (1) litre of water by 3.7C. (6.7F) It is somewhat more complicated, so here are some real data points to use. Dissolve in a litre of water: 1 TBSP KOH = 30g = -2.8C 2 TBSP KOH = 60g = -5.6C 3 TBSP KOH = 90g = -8.3C 4 TBSP KOH = 120g = -11.1C 5 TBSP KOH = 150g = -13.9C 6 TBSP KOH = 180g = -16.7C 7 TBSP KOH = 210g = -19.4C 8 TBSP KOH = 240g = -22.4C If you use BOTH isopropyl alcohol and KOH/NaOH, the freezing point reduction is cumulative. Ie. A 30% isopropyl solution yields -15C. Adding 3 TBSP will lower the freezing point another 8.3C as per the chart to a final value of -23.3C. Important note: The previous chart lists KOH concentrations that are highly conductive and will result in heavy current and excessive HHO generation and heat build up. Use a PWM to avoid these problems and get best use of your system.
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When you achieve these two objectives you will always see improved fuel economy and decreased emissions. This technology works. And because it does, all vehicles can be solved. If you do not get expected gains, you problem lies somewhere in the following troubleshooting guide. Is your generator producing HHO? The most common problem is that HHO is not being produced or it does not get into the engine. Check your system. Measure the output of your HHO cell by doing a water displacement test. A system should provide 1/4 - 1/2 litre/min of HHO per litre of engine displacement. Typically you should have 6-12 amps of current, depending on the size of your engine. Alternatively, you can look at the HHO bubbles: place hose in a glass of water. You should see 2-3 bubbles per second. Check whether your unit is making HHO or steam. If the generator runs hot to the touch, you must suspect that some part of the output is steam. One way to test for steam is to run the gas outlet over ice. If you get
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significant amounts of fog forming (water droplets), you know that at least part of your output is steam.
Does HHO get into the engine? Check for leaks. A check valve oriented in the wrong direction can block the HHO from getting to the engine. Spray your connections with soapy water to expose any leaks in the system. HHO is very tiny and it will float away quickly if not contained. Do you have an EFIE installed? Many customers with older vehicles, are successful after simply resetting their computer and do not require EFIE. You can reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes OR with the aid of an OBDII code reader. Do you have the right type of EFIE? Wide band EFIEs will not work for Narrow band sensors and vice versa. Is your EFIE installed correctly and on the correct wire? Refer to the instructions for the type of EFIE you installed. If you have the correct phenomena for your signal wire, make sure you have the upstream sensor. Installing the EFIE on the wrong wire is one of the most common mistakes. Reset your computer. Some computers are able to "learn" and adapt to the conditions that exist in the engine. Since you have made a major change by adding an HHO system and EFIEs, you may need to reset the computer to erase what it learned about the system when it was inefficient. Reset your computer by disconnecting the battery ground wire from the car, and leaving it off for 15 or 20 minutes. It is recommended to do this every time you make a change to the EFIE's setting. Is your EFIE functioning correctly? Check your manual to verify if your wiring is correct and measuring is as per our specifications. This is the single greatest cause of unsuccessful installations. Make sure you are connecting the correct type of EFIE for your car. Wideband or narrowband? Make certain you have an excellent ground connection, direct to the vehicle body or frame. Do not add extensions to the ground wires, especially on our EFIE combo and PWM. It will create enough error to render the EFIE useless. Before proceeding to the following steps you should make sure that all of the above steps are completed. The following are less likely to be the source of the problem, and require some additional expense. Is your air cleaner dirty? A dirty air cleaner can ruin gas mileage. It causes a richer mixture by restricting air flow to the engine.
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Do your oxygen sensors need to be replaced? Oxygen sensors wear out. You should replace them after 60,000 miles. If you are experiencing engine stalls or fast idle, this can be a symptom of bad oxygen sensors. If they are old, it is likely that replacing them will give you a good increase in mileage all by itself. Is there something else mechanically wrong with the engine? If the engine is not working properly, just fixing it can give you a dramatic increase in mileage all by itself. If you had any kind of check engine light before starting the project, you should get this fault explored and handled. If you're not sure, reset your computer, turn off all of your HHO, EFIEs and any other added modifications, and see if you still get a fault code. If so, get it fixed first, before adding any modifications. Do other sensors need adjustment? After treating the oxygen sensors, the most likely sensor still needed to be treated is the MAF or the MAP. After treating the MAF or MAP, the other sensors that can be tuned with ProTuner are the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) and CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor). What did we miss in the steps above? All vehicles can be solved. Some of them are a little tougher than others due to the way the ECU was programmed. If you have got to this point and your vehicle is still not been solved, one of the above steps is still out.
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Liability Statement
Hydrogen generation and HHO supplementation are experimental in nature and have known inherent risks! We have provided all reasonable safety information, but it is assumed the user will have researched the technology and be familiar with its benefits and risks prior to use. By using the supplied equipment, you agree to release its suppliers and manufacturers from any and all liability, in regards to the products use or misuse.
Green Source generators have been designed with your safety as a top priority and can protect you from most of your own mistakes. Probably, the worst you will do is to melt a wire or boil your electrolyte. Other generators on the market have components that, in the event of an over-current condition can become excessively hot. This heated component can act as an ignition source for the HHO and explode your generator. Our generators do not have internal components that can become dangerous.
Our liability shall be limited only to product replacement, should a defect be identified at the time of delivery.
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