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News and analysis of the international market

Copyright © EDM Publications - France - ISSN # 1291-6269

- Growth of 12.2% for brown shoes in 2011

- Change of the guard at Geox

- Clarks makes lower profits

- Foreigners overtake Italians at Micam

- New management and statutes for CEC

- Shoe stores are getting bigger

- Eram invests in Mellow Yellow

- Mixed exports from Italy and Spain

- Inditex,others produce more in Spain

- U.S. shoe consumption drops slightly

- A new agents’ recruitment service

- Paris fairs shuffle dates and venues

Oct. 12, 2012

Vol. 14 - N°21+22

Corporate

Bakers, Beppi, Cortina, Geox, Jimmy Choo, Kenneth Cole, Leiser, MBT, New Stella, Remonte, Sixty, Van Bommel, Wolverine, Zalando

Management & Distribution

Ara Shoes, Havaianas, Payless, Royer, Tod's, Stuart Weitzman

Other Companies

Bata, Christian Louboutin, Crockett & Jones, Esprit, Huntsman, Moreschi, Nordstrom, Pedro Garcia, Pedro Miralles, Pittards, Prada, Repetto, Schuh, Sergio Rossi, Superga, etc.

Pittards, Prada, Repetto, Schuh, Sergio Rossi, Superga, etc. Philip Webster Italian Correspondent Tel.: +39 02 659

Philip Webster Italian Correspondent Tel.: +39 02 659 6347 edm.milan@yahoo.com

Tel.: +39 02 659 6347 edm.milan@yahoo.com Contact Editor Visit our Website Eugenio Di Maria Publisher Tel.:

Eugenio Di Maria Publisher Tel.: + 33 1 4983 8242 news@shoeintelligence.com

Contact Administration

Shoe Intelligence

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Double-digit growth for the brown shoe market

 

The major brands of brown shoes – an expression that we use every year for certain types of casual shoes – raised their sales by 12.2 percent in terms of U.S. dollars in 2011, according to an annual survey of the industry by Shoe Intelligence. This com- pares with the drop of 4.0 percent that they had suffered in 2009 and the increase of 9.0 percent that they had enjoyed in 2010.

 

The brown shoe market reached a level of $15.3 billion - mostly at wholesale - following increases in dollar terms of 17.4 percent

 

in the U.S. and 6.9 percent in the rest of the world. Price increas-

 
 

es were partly responsible for these increases, especially in the

 

U.S., so the growth in volume was lower.

 
         

In terms of local currencies, the market grew at a slower pace, too. All our figures are expressed in dollars, calculated at the

 

average exchange rate for each year. In contrast with 2010,

 

when the average value of the dollar appreciated by 5 percent against the euro, the dollar fell by 4.9 percent against the euro

 

in 2011, down to less than €0.72. Because of this, the perfor-

 

mance of the European brands was a little weaker in terms of

 

euros than what stands out from the charts that we are publish-

 

ing, like every year, on page 3 of this issue.

 
 

Comparatively, the branded athletic footwear market jumped by

 

13.2 percent in dollars last year, reaching a level of $41.6 billion, sup- ported by heavy advertising and technological development, and

 

drivenby growth in emerging market. The rugged outdoor brands

 

experienced an even higher growth rate

 
   

of 14.5 percent, partly due to higher sell-

 

The Euro Oct. 11 rates

Czech Koruna

Danish Krone

Hungarian Forint

24.98

7.458

280.2

ing prices in response to cost increases. We have already published the charts for these two segments in two other publica-

 

Norwegian Krone

7.397

tions of ours, Sporting Goods Intelligence

 

Polish Zloty

4.099

and The Outdoor Industry Compass.

 

Pound Sterling

0.805

 

Swedish Krona

8.651

     

Swiss Franc

1.208

Like before, we have broken down the

 

U.S. Dollar

1.294

 

Brazilian Real

2.644

brown shoe segment into two sub-

 

Canadian Dollar

1.268

segments – lifestyle and casual. Led by

 

Chinese Yuan

8.111

brands such as Clarks, ECCO and Geox,

 

Japanese Yen

101.4

the lifestyle casual segment of the brown

 

Russian Ruble

40.22

 
         

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shoe market went up by 12.3 percent, rising by 19.7 percent in the U.S. and by 9.5 percent elsewhere.

 

After restating the figures for ECCO, based on new data from the company, we see that its total footwear sales became higher than those of Geox last year, in spite of the Thai floods of one year ago, which affected its ability to deliver its products to its clients. We still could not determine whether its businesses in China and Japan have been consolidated, which could help ex- plain the big jump in turnover

 
                                             

On the other hand, the figures for Geox include those of its nu-

 

merous company-owned stores and those of licensees, inflating

 

the totals. Like for all the other brands on the chart, apparel

 

revenues are not included.

 

Anyhow, Clarks remained by far the leader in the lifestyle ca-

 

sual segment with market share of almost 20 percent, and its

 

market share went up.

 
                                             

Like in 2010, Birkenstock, Mephisto, Caterpillar, Sperry Top-Sid-

 

er and Waldläufer grew faster than the market in 2011. Sperry,

 

which has now become a property of Wolverine Worldwide,

 

made a spectactular progress.

 
                 

Rank

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

Company

Clarks (a) (restated)

ECCO (b) (restated)

Geox

Birkenstock

Hush Puppies

Mephisto

Rockport

Caterpillar

Sperry

Josef Seibel

Dansko

Sales

1,726

1,256

1,150

763

430

411

363

332

320

237

135

International Lifestyle Casual Footwear Market

(Estimates in millions of US$ at wholesale. Change vs. prior year in dollars)

TOTAL

Change

13.1%

21.6%

9.0%

10.8%

-12.5%

10.1%

8.7%

16.1%

72.9%

-7.8%

13.4%

Share

18.4%

13.4%

12.3%

8.1%

4.6%

4.4%

3.9%

3.5%

3.4%

2.5%

1.4%

Sales

580

203

68

171

57

56

182

30

301

39

132

2011

U.S.

Change

23.4%

11.1%

0.9%

10.3%

8.0%

-4.9%

8.7%

10.7%

77.1%

-2.5%

13.8%

Share

21.3%

7.4%

2.5%

6.3%

2.1%

2.1%

6.7%

1.1%

11.0%

1.4%

4.8%

Sales

1,146

1,053

1,082

592

373

355

182

302

19

198

3

Non-U.S.

Change

8.5%

23.9%

9.5%

11.0%

-15.0%

12.9%

8.7%

16.6%

26.0%

-8.8%

0.0%

Share

17.2%

15.8%

16.2%

8.9%

5.6%

5.3%

2.7%

4.5%

0.3%

3.0%

0.0%

Sales

1,526

1,033

1,056

689

491

373

334

286

185

257

119

TOTAL

Change

-4.9%

16.7%

-6.4%

11.4%

6.8%

18.9%

4.0%

14.3%

17.2%

4.0%

21.4%

Share

18.3%

12.3%

12.6%

8.2%

5.9%

4.5%

4.0%

3.4%

2.2%

3.1%

1.4%

Sales

470

183

68

155

53

59

167

27

170

40

116

2010

U.S.

Change

-6.9%

35.0%

-4.8%

4.4%

5.0%

19.0%

4.0%

8.0%

15.6%

-7.0%

20.8%

Share

20.6%

8.0%

3.0%

6.8%

2.3%

2.6%

7.3%

1.2%

7.5%

1.8%

5.1%

Sales

1,056

850

988

534

439

314

167

259

15

217

3

Non-U.S.

Change

-4.0%

13.4%

-6.5%

13.5%

7.0%

18.9%

4.0%

15.0%

38.9%

6.4%

50.0%

Share

17.4%

14.0%

16.2%

8.8%

7.2%

5.2%

2.7%

4.3%

0.2%

3.6%

0.0%

 

12

Stonefly

129

9.5%

1.4%

1

 

-

0.0%

128

8.7%

1.9%

118

-0.8%

 

1.4%

0

-100.0%

0.0%

118

-0.1%

1.9%

 

13

Waldläufer

104

26.0%

1.1%

4

20.6%

 

0.2%

100

26.2%

1.5%

83

19.5%

 

1.0%

3

209.1%

0.1%

79

16.4%

1.3%

 

14

FinnComfort

84

8.4%

0.9%

8

0.0%

 

0.3%

76

9.3%

1.1%

77

7.4%

 

0.9%

8

6.9%

0.3%

70

7.4%

1.1%

 

15

Wolverine

82

14.2%

0.9%

62

14.0%

 

2.3%

20

14.9%

0.3%

72

   

0.9%

54.4

-

2.4%

17

-

0.3%

 

16

Camel Active

79

17.7%

0.8%

       

79

17.7%

1.2%

67

-0.6%

 

0.8%

     

67

-0.6%

1.1%

 

17

Vagabond (restated)

75

13.9%

0.8%

       

75

13.9%

1.1%

66

 

-

0.8%

     

66

-0.1%

1.1%

 

18

Sebago

67

14.4%

0.7%

18

12.6%

 

0.7%

49

15.1%

0.7%

58

6.0%

 

0.7%

16

6.0%

0.7%

42

6.0%

0.7%

 

19

Hotter

66

23.0%

0.7%

14

25.0%

 

0.5%

53

22.5%

0.8%

54

 

-

0.6%

11

-

0.5%

43

-

0.7%

 

20

Callaghan

50

5.5%

0.5%

       

50

5.5%

0.8%

48

7.7%

 

0.6%

     

48

7.7%

0.8%

 

21

Lumberjack

43

4.4%

0.5%

   

-

 

43

6.2%

0.6%

41

20.8%

 

0.5%

1

-

 

41

18.7%

0.7%

 

22

Sanita (est)

40

-15.2%

0.4%

17.9

5.3%

 

0.7%

22

-26.7%

0.3%

47

21.3%

 

0.6%

17

41.7%

0.7%

30

12.2%

0.5%

 
 

Others

1,445

12.7%

15.4%

783

18.6%

 

28.7%

662

6.4%

9.9%

1,282

7.9%

 

15.3%

660

12.2%

29.0%

622

3.7%

10.2%

 
 

TOTALS

9,388

12.3%

 

2,725

19.7%

   

6,663

9.5%

 

8,361

6.7%

   

2,277

10.8%

 

6,085

5.2%

   
   

2011 Exchange Rates: Euro 0.719/$; UK 0.623/$; Den. 5.359/$; Nor 5.606/$; Swe 6.493/$

2010 Exchange Rates: Euro 0.755/$; UK 0.647/$; Den. 5.622/$; Nor 6.045/$; Swe 7.202/$

   
   

Notes: (a) excluding Bostonian and UK retail sales (b) including licensee revenues

                             
                                   

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International Fashion Casual Footwear Market

         
       

(Estimates in millions of US$ at wholesale. Change vs. prior year in dollars)

           
           

2011

                   

2010

         
     

TOTAL

   

U.S.

     

Non-U.S.

   

TOTAL

     

U.S.

   

Non-U.S.

   

Rank

Company

Sales

Change

Share

Sales

Change

 

Share

Sales

Change

Share

Sales

Change

 

Share

Sales

Change

Share

Sales

Change

Share

 

1

Timberland

1,063

2.6%

18.1%

481

2.6%

 

16.4%

582

2.6%

19.8%

1,036

11.3%

 

19.7%

469

6.3%

18.5%

567

15.7%

20.8%

 

2

Steve Madden (restated)

969

52.4%

16.5%

915

52.4%

 

31.1%

53

52.3%

1.8%

636

26.2%

 

12.1%

601

24.7%

23.7%

35

58.4%

1.3%

 

3

Ugg

916

4.9%

15.6%

630

-5.4%

 

21.4%

286

38.2%

9.7%

873

22.6%

 

16.6%

666

18.5%

26.3%

207

38.0%

7.6%

 

4

Camper

348

7.1%

5.9%

17

21.4%

 

0.6%

331

6.4%

11.3%

325

9.4%

 

6.2%

14

40.0%

0.6%

311

8.4%

11.4%

 

5

Diesel Footwear

262

3.1%

4.5%

57

2.0%

 

1.9%

205

3.4%

7.0%

254

-2.1%

 

4.8%

56

-2.9%

2.2%

198

-1.9%

7.3%

 

6

Kickers (b) (restated)

178

12.7%

3.0%

2

 

-

0.1%

177

11.7%

6.0%

158

-

 

3.0%

   

158

-

5.8%

 

7

Replay

121

-5.8%

2.1%

1

-20.0%

 

0.0%

120

-5.7%

4.1%

128

1.6%

 

2.4%

1

25.0%

0.0%

127

1.4%

4.7%

 

8

Dockers (Europe)

72

-16.0%

1.2%

       

72

-16.0%

2.5%

86

12.3%

 

1.6%

   

86

12.3%

3.2%

 

9

Harley-Davidson

68

7.4%

1.2%

45

6.0%

 

1.5%

24

10.2%

0.8%

64

6.0%

 

1.2%

42

5.0%

1.7%

22

8.0%

0.8%

 

10

Superga

66

5.3%

1.1%

3

113.3%

 

0.1%

62

2.6%

2.1%

62

-14.8%

 

1.2%

2

-11.8%

0.1%

61

-14.9%

2.2%

 

11

Sioux

60

12.8%

1.0%

       

60

12.8%

2.0%

53

-2.2%

 

1.0%

   

53

-2.2%

1.9%

 

12

El Naturalista

52

8.0%

0.9%

3

-38.1%

 

0.1%

49

12.4%

1.7%

48

13.6%

 

0.9%

4

23.5%

0.2%

44

12.7%

1.6%

 

13

14

15

16

Fly London

Marc Shoes

Joya

ART

Others

50

49

39

35

1,534

17.0%

5.2%

4.9%

3.2%

12.1%

0.4%

0.7%

0.6%

26.1%

6

4

777

42.2%

8.4%

16.1%

 

0.2%

0.1%

26.4%

44

49

39

32

757

14.1%

5.2%

4.9%

2.6%

8.1%

0.5%

1.3%

1.1%

25.7%

43

46

37

34

1,369

17.9%

9.5%

10.3%

8.7%

-

0.4%

0.7%

0.6%

26.1%

5

3

669

50.0%

108.4%

11.5%

0.2%

0.1%

26.4%

38

46

37

31

700

15.0%

9.5%

-

5.1%

6.1%

0.5%

1.4%

1.1%

25.7%

 
 

TOTALS

5,881

12.0%

2,940

16.2%

2,941

8.1%

2011 Exchange Rates: Euro 0.719/$; UK 0.623/$; Den. 5.359/$; Nor 5.606/$; Swe 6.493/$

Notes: (a) excluding Bostonian and UK retail sales

5,252

13.2%

2,531

14.9%

2,721

11.7%

2010 Exchange Rates: Euro 0.755/$; UK 0.647/$; Den. 5.622/$; Nor 6.045/$; Swe 7.202/$

   
                                             
 

Led by Timberland, Steve Madden and Ugg – in that order – the fashion casual segment of the market grew at a faster rate of

 
 

12.0 percent, with increases of 16.2 percent in the U.S. and 8.1

 
 

percent in the rest of the world.

 
                                             
 

Steve Madden overtook Ugg, whose rapid ascent of the last few

 
 

years has come to a halt. Among the other brands in this cate-

 
 

gory, Kickers and Fly London recorded above-average increases,

 
 

raising their relatively small market shares.

 
 

Some of the figures on the chart come from public statements,

 
 

but the majority are actual figures or estimates based on input from management and industry officials. It took us a little longer

 
 

than usual to put together the two casual footwear charts pub-

 
 

lished on page 3 because it took longer for some of the brands

 
 

to respond to our repeated queries. Like last year, we could

 
 

only get estimates for the brands of the Wolverine group and for

 
   
 

some others, based on multiple sources.

 
 

Finally, we decided to drop one of them, Pikolinos, and to add two new ones - Joya and the Wolverine brand, which coming out of its traditional work boot business. Run by the family of Karl Müller, founder of MBT, Joya is the only brand of toning shoes that is rising at the moment. MBT’s sales dropped sharply last year to the equivalent of $128 million, precipitating its bank- ruptcy earlier this year. Skechers went down, too, but we have

 
                                   

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already featured this company in the athletic footwear chart of Sporting Goods Intelligence.

 

Geox switches CEO to boost its fortunes

 

Geox has replaced its long-serving chief executive, Diego Bol- zonello, with the group’s marketing director, Giorgio Presca, in an attempt to relaunch the group, whose sales have petered out lately. The appointment of Presca heralds a change of strat- egy for the brand, aimed at making it more fashion-oriented, as repeatedly suggested by its founder, chairman and controlling

 
 

shareholder, Mario Moretti Polegato.

 
       

The change of the guards is more than just the simple replace-

 

ment of a top executive. Bolzonello is largely considered as the

 

co-founder of the group. Born in 1958 and a resident of Crocetta del Montello, the same town in the Veneto region where Moretti

 

Polegato lives, Bolzonello started working for Geox when it was

 

created 17 years ago. He was the first person to have been hired by Moretti Polegato and helped turn the start-up into the sec-

 

ond- or third-largest brand of lifestyle-driven brown shoes, ac-

 

cording to the annual rankings of Shoe Intelligence

 
 
       

In the early part of the past decade, the group enjoyed strong growth, prompting Moretti Polegato to list Geox on the Milan

 

stock exchange in 2004. Its market capitalization exceeded €2

 

billion in late 2007, when the share price rose above €16.

 

But, the outbreak of the economic crisis in 2008, a failed diver-

In the first half of 2012, Geox suffered a 4.3 percent decrease

 

sification into sports shoes and a slowdown in the growth of

 

Geox’ apparel segment, which was expected to keep the sales

 

momentum going after the footwear segment plateaued, stifled

 

sales growth. In the meantime, the group’s share price has plum-

 

meted to around €2, and the prospects for further sales growth

 

remain weak at present.

in sales to €429.1 million. On a currency-neutral basis, its sales fell by 5.0 percent. Footwear revenues were down by

 

4.6

percent to €375.5 million and apparel sales decreased by

 

1.8

percent to €53.6 million. At constant foreign exchange

 
       

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rates, revenues fell by 5.6 percent for footwear and by 1.8 percent for apparel.

 

When it announced its first-half results at the end of July, Geox warned that full-year revenues were likely to end up in the low- er part of the of €820-830 million range predicted in May. This year’s results will be significantly lower than the €887.3 million booked in 2011. Financial analysts believe that Geox’ sales will pick up next year, approaching €860 million, but without ex- pressing great enthusiasm about the group’s prospects. Early in

 

September, Goldman Sachs trimmed its sales forecasts for the

 

next two years and forecast a decline in gross operating profits

 

(Ebitda).

 
     

Bolzonello seemed inclined to maintain the group’s current

 

strategy and price positioning. He is believed to have irremedi- ably clashed with Moretti Polegato when the group decided to

 

have a direct presence in China and Hong Kong, terminating

 

its distribution agreement with Belle International. According

 

to this rumor, Moretti Polegato carried out his coup de main

 

on Sept 28. during a board meeting where he obtained Presca’s

 

election to the board, which immediately appointed him CEO.

 
     

A spokeswoman for the company said that this was not the is- sue. In fact, Geox put out a statement today to the effect that

 

Bolzonello had resigned from his position “for personal rea-

 

sons” and “to embark on new professional challenges.”

 

Regarding Geox’ business in China, the spokeswoman said that

Anyhow, the change of the guard at Geox seems to be intend-

 
 

the company had decided against renewing its contract with

 

Belle at the end of this year in order to preserve its freedom to

 

set up company-owned stores at key locations. The plan is to

 

set up 130 of them by the end of 2016 in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong

 

Kong and Macau. The first one of them was already established in Shanghai last March. At the same time, a new Chinese distrib utor, RI Qing, will open 400 stores and shop-in shops at other locations throughout the country.

ed to give a new impulse to the brand. A seasoned-marketer, Presca has worked for many high-profile brands, especially in

 
     

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jeanswear. In the 1990s he was marketing director for Benetton Sportsystem and then for Lotto, before moving to Levi’s Strauss in 1998. Between 2000 and 2007, he worked as vice-president of sales and marketing for Diesel, then moved to head the jeans- wear business at VF Corporation. He was hired as general man- ager of product and marketing at Geox in May 2011

 

The Italian merchant bank Banca IMI welcomed Presca’s appoint- ment, noting that the current attempt to relaunch the brand could be helped by greater attention to marketing and improv-

 

ing the brand’s image. The equity research group Morningstar

 

summarized the advantages and drawbacks of the change in

 

strategy by saying that the move increases the company’s risk

 

profile because keeping up with consumer tastes can lead to

 

missteps or falling out of favor. Conversely, the management

 

change could reinvigorate the group and lead to higher sales growth and gross margins if the strategy is successful.

 
 

Lower profits at Clarks

         

Pre-tax earnings declined by 12.9 percent to £31.1 million (€38.7m-

 

$49.8m) at C&J Clark for the first half of its financial year, ended on

 

July 31. Operating profits before exceptional items declined by

 
 

12.3 percent to £35.5 million (€44.1m-$56.8m), but the management expects them to be flat for the full year. Sales grew by 2.5 per-

 

cent to £643.1 million (€799.8m-$1,029.0m) in the first half, and they

 

should be still up for the full year.

 

Clarks Consolidated Income Statement

(Million £, Six Months ended July 31)

%

While its sales in the rest of

 

Europe were flat, the group’s

 
 

2012

2011

Change

sales dropped by 0.4 percent

 

UK

North America

332.3

247.6

29.2

337.1

234.0

29.9

-1.4

5.8

-2.3

in the

cause of the recession and

and Ireland be-

U.K.

 

Europe

Rest of the world

34.0

26.6

27.8

poor weather conditions,

 

TOTAL Footwear

643.1

627.6

2.5

 

Cost of Sales

607.6

587.1

3.5

which led to a 2.9 percent

 

Loss in Joint Venture

0.5

0.2

150.0

decline in comparable store

 

Exceptional Items

-

0.1

-

sales, but retail margins went

 

Net interest

3.9

4.7

-17.0

up and wholesale shipments

 

Pre-tax

31.1

35.7

-12.9

increased by 1.6 percent.

 

Tax

7.6

8.6

-11.6

         

NET

23.5

27.1

-13.3

         

Earnings/ordinary

39.7

45.7

-13.1

         

share (pence)

               
               

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On the other hand, Clark’s multi-channel retailing operation raised its sales by 24.5 percent to £23.1 million (28.7m-$37.0m), de- livering record profits of £10.9 million (13.6m-$17.4m). It got a boost last May with the introduction of online sales for Clarks’ famous children’s shoes, coupled with a lightweight footgauge sold to parents for home use.

 

Wholesale deliveries to the rest of Europe grew by 3.0 percent to 2.1 million pairs during the six-month period. They rose by 15.6 percent in the Asia-Pacific region and almost doubled in

 

South America. However, achieved margins were off by 4.8 per-

 

cent in Europe. Profits declined in Europe as well as in the

 

Asia-Pacific region, where they were affected by the start-up

 

of Clarks’ new Indian joint venture and by the takeover the

 

distribution in Southeast Asia.

 

Overall, profits fell by 16.1 percent to £19.3 million (€24.0m-$30.9m)

 

on 0.5 percent higher revenues of £395.5 million (€491.8m-$632.9m)

 

at Clarks International, the company that groups all the opera-

 

tions outside North America. While the total pairage fell by 10.4

 

percent in the territory, unit prices increased by 15.6 percent,

 

helping to offset higher input costs.

 
     

Similarly, volumes decreased by 14.0 percent at Clarks Compa- nies North America, with a drop in wholesale shipments of 9.8

 

percent to 6.5 million pairs, but average selling prices went up

 

by 20.7 percent.

 

The division’s sales increased by 3.1 percent to $390.6 million,

Fewer Italians than foreigners at Micam

 

but profit went down by 16.6 percent to $5.4 million because of

 
 

heavy investments on new stores and new systems, including a

 

new distribution center whose construction is nearly complete.

 

On the other hand, the start-up of a new SAP system for North

 

America has been delayed until next spring.

 

Micam Shoevent is changing its name to theMICAM (sic) and launching a new logo intended to portray the fair as the most authoritative and significant event for footwear professionals in the world, with a strong international identity. The new trade

 
     

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name will also be applied to theMICAM Shanghai, the new fair planned for April 2013, and to other fairs that may be staged elsewhere as part of a new program called “MICAM nel Mondo” (Micam in the World).

 

While we welcome the new name, it creates a little problem for us because we have decided to capitalize all the first letters and to stop using capitals if the letters of a word are not pronounced one by one, like those of the GDS in Düsseldorf.

 

Micam Shoevent Visitors (Sept. edition)

2012

2011

%

           

The last edition of the Micam

Attendance from China and

 

Italy

Spain

Russia

France

20,501

1,612

1,571

1,447

21,418

1,671

1,455

1,427

Change

-4.3

-3.5

8.0

1.4

fair in Milan welcomed a total of 41,085 visitors, indicating a slight drop of 2.7 percent from one year ago. The number of

 

Japan

1,419

1,363

4.1

foreign visitors increased to

 

China-Hong Kong

1,315

1,170

12.4

20,584 overtaking for the first

 

Germany

1,189

1,121

6.1

time the number of visitors

 

Switzerland

1,127

1,165

-3.3

 

UK

773

846

-8.6

from Italy, which fell by 4.3

 

Netherlands

Ukraine

Turkey

Greece

Belgium

725

627

617

608

593

751

534

545

703

631

-3.5

17.4

13.2

-13.5

-6.0

percent to 20,501, partly due to traffic problems on the Sun- day during the show.

 

Poland

448

520

-13.8

   

USA

445

389

14.4

Hong Kong grew by 12.4 per-

 

Portugal

431

475

-9.3

cent to 1,315 people. There

 

Austria

338

363

-6.9

was

also

a

remarkable

in-

 

South Korea

231

260

-11.2

crease of 14.4 percent to 445

 

Australia

Lebanon

Canada

Denmark

226

216

193

188

224

206

171

211

0.9

4.9

12.9

-10.9

visitors from the U.S. Relative-

 

Sweden

Kazakhstan

Israel

179

179

175

184

0

258

-2.7

-

-32.2

ly strong increases were also recorded from Russia, Japan,

Germany,

Turkey, as shown in the chart

and

the

Ukraine

 

Others

3,712

4,170

-11.0

on the previous page.

 

TOTAL

41,085

42,231

-2.7

           

The number of exhibitors went up slightly to a total of 1,573, about 40 percent of them came from abroad. They occupied a total of 68,035 square me- ters of net exhibition space.

 
               

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Taking place on Monday rather than on Tuesday, the gala eve- ning at the fair was marked by uninterrupted excitement, and the food was excellent. In his second year as president of the Italian shoe industry association, Anci, the young Cleto Sa- gripanti came over for the first time with his parents, made a short speech and gave the Micam Retail Awards to Barneys of New York and to De Liberto, an 11-year-old chain of 11 stores in Naples that is starting up an e-commerce operation with a first selection of women’s shoes.

 
       

Good response to Micam China project

 
 

More than 250 companies expressed interest in Micam’s new

 

project to organize its first foreign show in Shanghai next April

 

9-11 (see the previous issue). Participation in the show is open

 

to selected brands from all over the world in the medium, up- per-medium and highs segments of the market, including Chi-

 

nese brands.

 

Anyhow, one of the goals is to capitalize on the momentum that

 

Italian shoes are enjoying in that part of the world. Comment-

 

ing on the new Micam initiative, Cleto Sagripanti, president of

 

the Italian shoe industry association, Anci, predicted that it will

 
 

help to move China and Hong Kong up from the sixth place on the list of Italy’s foreign destinations for footwear to one of the

 

three major export markets.

 

Sagripanti admitted that the April dates were a little late, but

 

said that the organizers wanted the new fair to happen at the

 

same time as the local Fashion Week, as is the case for Micam in

 

Milan, in order to attract fashion buyers. The timing of the Oc-

 

tober event in Beijing should be better, considering that Obuv

 

in Moscow takes place around the same dates.

 
 

Micam and its partner in the project, Fieramilano, have reserved about 6,000 square meters of net space at the old Shanghai Ex-

 

hibition Center, in the downtown area of the Chinese city, to ac- commodate more than 200 companies. The participants will pay

 

a

standard price of €334 per square meter for a turnkey stand of

 

12 m² or more. As part of the service, they will get the results of

 

a

study on the development of the retail sector in China, includ-

 
       

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ing an analysis of the emerging multi-brand retail format, and information on intellectual property protection.

 

A

few European shoe brands, such as Högl and Wortmann, have

 

already shown interest in presenting their products to Chinese buyers at and earlier fashion fair, China International Clothing & Accessories (Chic) Fair, which is scheduled to take place in Beijing on March 26-29. Featuring more than 1,000 brands, Chic has been attracting as many as 100,000 visitors at each of its sessions. Other shoe companies such as K+S are planning to

 

continue to show at Chic. Ara Shoes showed there in the past,

 

but not anymore.

 
       

New general secretary for CEC from Spain

 
 

Carmen Arias Castellano, a multi-lingual Spanish lawyer born in 1965, is the new general secretary of CEC, the European confed-

 

eration of the shoe industry. Together with a new team based

 

at a new office in Brussels, she has taken the place of Roeland Smets, who passed away last February.

 
       

After working at a legal office in Madrid, Arias Castellano joined

 

Ernst & Young and then pursued a long career in the European

 
 

institutions, notably in the office handling the harmonization of customs and tax regulations. She acted as senior tax consultant

 

at Deloitte between 2002 and 2005. She then handled finance,

 

administration, human resources and legal services at an office in Brussels representing the Spanish region of Valencia.

 
       

At CEC, Arias Castellano will take care of relations with European

 

institutions, alert members about relevant European measures

 

and projects, and collect trade statistics. One of these projects

 

is

the institution of a European master’s degree in management

 

for the footwear sector. It is strongly supported by the current chairman of CEC, Vito Artioli.

Arias Castellano will work together with a new executive com- mittee whose members will include Richard Kotter, the dynamic secretary general of the British Footwear Association. The com- mittee will draft a new set of statutes, more flexible than the present one. CEC will also have a new institutional website.

 
       

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Led by Anci, Italy’s powerful shoe industry association, 15 shoe- makers’ associations are currently members of CEC, and three others have observer status. The big German association of shoe and leathergoods manufacturers, HDS, has remained out

 

of

the CEC for numerous ideological reasons, including its op-

 

position to the recent anti-dumping duties on leather shoes from China and Vietnam.

 

A

few months ago, HDS elected Fesi, the European sporting

 

goods industry federation, to be its lobbyist in Brussels. Howev-

 

er,

the president and the secretary general of HDS, Ralph Rieker,

 

and its secretary general, Manfred Junkert, met the young presi-

 

dent and secretary general of Anci, Cleto Sagripanti and Fabio

 

Aromatici, on the last day of the last Micam show in Milan. We

 

understand that the meeting had been staged mainly to allow the presidents of the two associations to know each other bet-

 

ter and to discuss a wide range of subjects, but nothing con-

 

crete is expected to come out of it in the short term.

 
       

At

until next June, reiterated its call for the imposition of mandato-

the last Micam, Artioli, who will continue as chairman of CEC

 

ry

labels of import on shoes coming from outside the European

 

Union – a measure that has been strongly opposed by HDS. CEC

 

will also ensure the respect of safety standards by importers

 

and will work for the abolition of trade barriers in other parts

 

of

the world.

   
       

At

   

a press conference during the Micam show, Artioli noted that

 

the temporary imposition of anti-dumping duties on leather shoes from China and Vietnam, which was phased out in April

last year, has had a positive effect on the European trade

balance. In the first five months of this year, imports of these

products into the EU from China and Vietnam rose by only 15.3

percent and 11.9 percent in value, respectively, largely because

of

 

of

price increases.

   

Meanwhile, Artioli continues to collect responsibilities at the associative level. He has now been named honorary chairman

 

of

the San Crispino and Crispiniano Footwear Craftsmen Consor-

 

tium. The 32-year-old consortium, which is based in the Italian

 
       

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shoe town of Vigevano, groups about 600 entrepreneurs from the footwear industry in Italy and other countries. The consortium awards every year a prize to their best employees. They also do- nate containers of shoes to deprived populations, as they did last year in Haiti.

 

Shoe stores are getting bigger

   

After the successful expansion of the shoe floors at the flagship stores of Selfridges in London and Galeries Lafayette in Paris, three department stores in New York and a couple of them in